Sailing Pelagia

Tinos, Athens, and... home!

2026-10-13T20:00:00.000-07:00

Agia Pelagia (St. Pelagia) of Tinos

A return to Tinos, home to our boat Pelagia's namesake.

Like Syros, another island more touristed by Greeks than by foreign tourists (most visitors are Greek, on a pilgrimage to the Church of Panagia Evangelistria of Tinos, Ιερός Ναός Παναγίας Ευαγγελίστριας της Τήνου).

Pilgrims ascending on hands and knees...

We had hoped to do some more hiking -- as we did in 2022 -- but it was Michelle's turn to suffer from a cold. Still, we managed some swimming, as the winds had died off and it was warm. At our comfortable apartment, we (especially Michelle) bonded with a multigenerational family of cats.

Beach time on Tinos

Tinos kittens

After 3 nights, we headed to Athens, taking a SeaJets fast ferry to Rafina then car service to hotel in Athens.

After 2 weeks on islands, frenetic, packed Athens was somewhat of a shock to us. The air pollution (although it wasn't as bad as it often is) and everyone smoking was hard on us. We did take in the National Museum of Archeology, and we had two good dinners.

National Archaeology Museum: Aphrodite, Pan and Eros (from house in Beryttos, 100 BC)

After 2 nights in Athens, it was time to head home, with a one night stopover in Frankfurt.

Arrived Vancouver a few hours late (repairs to plane while we waited on board) but essentially an easy trip home. Arrived Squamish just as it started to rain. Bedtime. And jetlag.

Syros (Cyclades, Greece)

2026-10-07T07:13:00.000-07:00

Ermoupolis waterfront

Our final days on Samos were impacted by David's worsening cold. He took it easy, staying mostly in our small apartment. This seemed to help, as he rallied on the day were to take the Blue Star ferry to Syros. It was an increasingly rough passage, with winds and seas worst between Ikaria and Mykonos. At least for us, it was fine (we're used to rough seas...). The ferry became unbelievably crowded by Mykonos, with folks sitting/lying everywhere on the floor, in stairwells, etc. We had never seen it like this. We learned why upon arrival at our rooms in Ermoupoli, Syros: winds were expected to pick up to 35-40 kn and ferries were to be cancelled for the next 1.5-2 days. We were on one of the last ferries heading back to Piraeus (Athens). (Just shows you have to consider this when returning to Athens for an international flight.)

It was good to stay again at Ostria rooms in Ermoupoli, where we had previously stayed in 2019 and 2022. The ferry arrived over an hour late, but Jessica waited for us. After getting into the room, we went out into bustling Ermoupoli for a late night pizza.

Ermoupoli is a beautiful small city. Most tourists are Greek tourists. There are no large resorts on Syros and thus no throngs of foreign tourists. But compared to our two previous visits, we have noticed more English-speaking tourists scattered around. Syros is slowly being discovered by foreign tourists.

Ermoupoli (winds picking up)

Ermoupoli: Main square and old town hall

Marble streets of Ermoupoli

The first 3 days were very windy. One could see why the ferries had been cancelled.

David's cold was much better, but the first morning in Syros he was woken up early by what seemed to be something in his eye. Very unpleasant. It turned out to be a bad case of conjunctivitis. After a day, it improved (only slightly), and David learned to live with it. We added a couple days to our stay on Syros so we go do some walking.

One day, we took the bus over to Kini, and walked over to Delfini Beach, where we had a swim. The next day, we took the bus to Azolimnos, and walked the coast to Vari. (This latter walk we did in 2019, but it is now in worse shape as some sections were ruined by erosion or private development... but we ended it with an enjoyable scenic bus ride around the island back to Ermoupoli.)

On the (easy) trail to Delfini Beach (Syros). Protected from N winds.

Swim time at Delfini Beach

After 6 days on Syros, we moved over to the island of Tinos (only 35 minutes away by ferry).

One week in Samos (Northern Aegean, Greece)

2026-10-01T01:30:48.391-07:00

Ormos (with harbour) and Kampos (Mt. Kerkis behind)

We have just spent a week on Samos. We had up to 2 weeks and thought we might split it between different places on the island.

First up was Ormos Marathokampou (usually just referred to as "Ormos"). A small village, with good harbour for sailboats and fishboats. We initially booked 4 nights in this quiet village. Quiet in the day, it became busy at dinner with tourists from nearby (5 min drive) Kampos.

We did a short hike one day (from Potami to some waterfalls) and another day, we drove around most of the island. We checked out Pythagoreio and Samos Town as possible places to stay in. Pythagoreio was cute but packed with tourists. Samos Town is a real working town/city with it's waterfront undergoing upgrades. But is was not yet there (for us) and the area with cafés and restaurants had a bad sewage smell, so that was out. We also looked a Kokkari, another touristy town with lots of cafés and restaurants. In the end, we decided to stay longer in Ormos, as none of these grabbed our interest.

On the Potami waterfalls hike

Potami beach

View from Ormos town beach

Sailboat anchored off Ormos (many more at the docks)

Ormos

Lots (!) of cats to join us at dinner

We've had several good meals (and some so-so ones) and many wonderful Greek salads. The cats and Michelle have bonded (for as long as cats are interested...). But we've decided 7 nights is more than enough for our visit to Samos. David catching a bad cold hasn't helped (likely on the 2 flights from Milan to Athens to Samos).

Today we catch a ferry to a favourite island of ours: Syros.

Via Claudia Augusta: Last days (Trento, Rivalta, Verona)

2026-09-22T06:54:15.786-07:00

to Verona...

Day 8: Bike from Auer to Trento. Mostly flat, along the Adige River. All on separated bike paths.

Adige River and Dolomites

Flat bike path along the Adige

Trento is a rather large city... too busy for us. As we felt with Merano, we prefer the smaller towns/villages. Also, we felt Trento to be a little to self absorbed. (To be fair, we were not in Trento long enough to get to know ut.) It didn't help our hotel was the "Grand Hotel Trento", which was rather fancy yet dated and lacking character or comfort (the rooms were not as good as out country inns). We were surprised to hear a lot of American accents.*

* Sorry if we sound "anti American"... it's hard these days with the USA actively attacking Canada both verbally and certainly economically. Most Canadians are quite disgusted (and dismayed)... all, hopefully, will resolve in the coming years.

Trento

Day 9: Bike from Trento to Rivalta. As with other cities, a bit convoluted getting out of Trento by bike route, but once out, it was an easy, flat (or slight downhill) to the very small village of Rivalta. Cloudy in the morning but soon sunny and very warm. Our hotel there was a small family-run inn (Albergo Olivo), where we had a comfortable room (with AC), very good dinner, and zero other tourists. Not much English spoken, but everyone made it work. We very much appreciated being out of the city!

Castel Beseno

Our ritual: Morning tea time along the route

Albergo Olivo (Rivalta)

Enjoying a post-ride beer (alcohol-free) at the Olivo

Day 10: Our final day of biking, from Rivalta to Verona. Another sunny day (low 20s C). Had a short "crisp" uphill (as described by our bike company app) to Rivoli Veronese, site of a major battle in January 1797 (Napolean's first major victory).

Half-way up to Rivoli Veronese, Michelle takes a rest (looking North, up the Adige river)

Fort Rivoli (formerly known as Fort Wohlgemuth)

The rest of the way was gently downhill to Verona. Arriving Verona, still on bike paths, was a little hectic, made easier by our hotel being just off the bike path and outside of the centre.

All-in-all, a lovely day of riding making a successful end to our 510+ km, 10-day bike ride through the Alps. No rain (in the daytime), and Michelle did it all on a regular bike (in contrast to David on an e-bike)!

Celebratory drinks in Verona's Piazza Bra

Check-in message from PelagiaZOLEO

2026-09-22T04:40:27.875-07:00

Check-in message from PelagiaZOLEO

ZOLEO Device Details
Device: PelagiaZOLEO
IMEI: 300434066100130

Message: I'm OK. My location is 45.43992, 10.97213

Check-in sent at: 22 Sep 2026 11:38:53 (UTC)

View on map

Via Claudia Augusta biking: Tirol (Austria) and Südtirol (Italy)

2026-09-20T07:32:53.921-07:00

Michelle biking towards Italy and the Reschen Pass

Day 4: A short bike ride (15 km) from Füssen to reach Reutte (Tirol, Austria), where we put our bikes on a trailer and were shuttled over the Fern Pass to Fernstein Castle, where we started our ride (mostly downhil) to Imst.

Our hotel in Imst (Hotel Neuner)

It rained heavily at night in Imst, but again, we were lucky... the sun came out the next day.

Day 5: A 1.5 hour bike ride to Landeck where we again shuttled over the steep uphill section of the Austrian side of the Reschen Pass to Nauders. We still had 150m of gentle biking into Italy over the pass (which is wide and relatively flat at its actual high point) to out inn in St. Valentin auf der Haide.

Again, a night of heavy rain that cleared up by the next morning.

Day 6: Another beautiful sunny day and a LOT of downhill riding. And a long ride... about 75 km to Merano. Many villages, many castles... and many bike riders.

Looking back towards St Valentin and the Haidersee

Glurns

Day 7: Leaving the relatively big city of Merano, we had an easy ride gently downhill to near Bolzano. From there, the bike route surprised us with a twisty 150m climb. Through narrow tunnels with too many other bikers. (Especially the racing types, none which you hear coming up from behind you... noone uses their voice or bell to warn you. We found them to be obnoxious, and had our private terms for them... sometimes said out loud as they passed by too close and too fast.). Ended up in the nice little village of Auer, as it turns out, our last night in German-speaking Südtirol.

Michelle exiting tunnel on bike rout up to St. Michael (a very busy route!)

the racing types...

Via Claudia Augusta Biking: Augsburg to Füssen

2026-09-15T10:00:00.000-07:00

First day to Landsberg am Lech: mostly flat, countryside biking. No traffic. Tired by the end (we weren't used to being on bikes for 4 hours).

Alcohol-free Dunkel-Weisen: Excellent!

Augsburg Cathrdral (Dom): Oldest stained glass windows...

Augsburg

Entry to alt stadt (old town) of Landsberg am Lach

Landsberg festival

We got lucky with the rain. Heavy rain overnight in Landsberg, sunny by morning. Day 2: A very nice bike ride to Schöngau.

St. Michael's Basilica: 1220 AD. (Altenstadt)

Day 3: An even better day of biking, from Schöngau to Füssen.

Beautiful biking between Schöngau and Füssen. Alps in the distance

One of many (!) Via Claudia Augusta information boards along the way

Just before Füssen, the bike trail became very busy. Füssen itself was very (!) busy, including North American tourists (lots of Americans... not seenelsewhere on this bike tour).

We arrived Füssen early enough, so David insisted Michelle see Neuschwanstein Castle. BIG mistake. An overcrowded zoo. (He visited last in 1979... it wasn't crowed back then.) We squeezed into an overcrowded overheated bus like sardines (not helped by the USA tour group who jumped the long line, urged by their leader to do so), ran to take a photo from the overcrowded Marienbrucke and then ran back through the approaching new crowds to the bus. Michelle was clear: Never do that to me again!

Neuschwanstein Castle (NOT worth dealing with the crowds!)

Cow symphony...

2026-09-13T23:11:00.000-07:00

Along the bike route...

Bicycling the Via Claudia Augusta: Augsburg to Verona

2026-09-12T22:53:00.000-07:00

Via Claudia Augusta

Back to Europe (finally!).

First, 10-day inn-to-inn cycling trip along the Via Claudia Augusta, from Augsburg (Germany) through the alps to Verona, Italy. A self-guided but organized trip. (Inntours provides luggage transport, hotel bookings AND transport over two passes in the Alps.)

After the bike trip, we head to Greece for two weeks.

Summer 2026: 6 weeks on Pelagia

2026-08-19T16:00:00.000-07:00

A trip similar to Summer 2025. We started late due to new engine installation, so we didn't go above Cape Caution. Total of about 600 nm.

Quite a bit of rain in the Broughtons, but enough sun to keep us happy. It was great to be in cooler (15-23 degrees C) temps and no wildfire smoke.

Managed to get about 60 nm of sailing.

New engine was great. However, we had a very strange issue where we found the bolts on the coupling between the propeller shaft and transmission all loose (indeed,3 were off!). This despite David having checked their tightness 50-hrs earlier (running time). We have our suspicions as to how this came about.

Funny episode was kayaking into Booker Lagoon on a spring tide... and getting stuck inside before the current allowed us to paddle back out to our boat (2 hours later). A real newbie mistake (it could have been worse, we could have been stuck for 4-5 hours). We were able to laugh about it.

Waiting out the tide in Booker Lagoon....

As usual, we had an excellent sail back down Johnstone Strait -- NW winds 27-25 kt made it easy and reasonably fast.

Only one new-to-us anchorage this summer (Percy Anchorage, near Nanaimo).

After a week relaxing in the Desolation Sound area, we had a sail to Pender Harbour (where we stayed 3 nights at the VRC outstation), then another sail across to Percy Anchorage. We briefly detoured to Clam Bay in the Gulf Islands to meet up with Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter. We had one last good sail across Georgia Strait, completing our Summer trip at our VRC berth.

To the Broughtons and Cape Caution (almost)

2026-07-25T10:27:16.063-07:00

Bit gloomy in Beware Passage

We did an (unusual for us) dinner time transit north through the Yaculta rapids. Easy transit with few other vessels and no gin palaces roaring though (a welcome change). But not arriving to anchorage (Bickley Bay) til 9'ish pm a pain. Then we had an easy, albeit motor, trip up Johnstone Strait A few days in the Broughtons the several in Sointula and 1 night provisioning in Port McNeill.

Yesterday, we decided to setup for going around Cape Caution, motoring 6 hrs to just SE of Caution at Miles Inlet (a favourite).

This morning (Saturday), conditions were perfect for going up and around Cape Caution. BUT the weather forecast above Caution for the next 5+ days had 20-30 (!) knot winds every day (plus rain, etc). It sounded depressing. Given our late leaving for this Summer's cruise, we decided to turn back.

Maybe next year....

Right now, we are heading towards Wells Passage, calm seas, little wind.

See many sea otters along the way.

Rain and some winds are forecast here too (but not so bad... no "30 knots" in forecast... yet).

(We spent the following 3 nights in Napier Bay, with no winds. Lots of rain. Bears. And some walking.)

Sun comes out for kayaking (Mimkwamlis village site)

Summer 2026: Vancouver to Bargain Bay (Pender Harbour)

2026-07-09T19:23:00.000-07:00

This Summer, our "live" location (maybe 1/2 day behind) can be found here: https://track.myzoleo.com/livelocation?se1aV0V8QD

Finally! We got away for our Summer 2026 cruising... with our new engine!

A little late (we usually leave in mid June). We "plan" on being out 6 weeks, at least getting up to the Broughtons.

Today, we left late (due to low tide), but made it up to Bargain Bay. Even managed an easy sail (SE winds) for about half of it.

(On the way, we looked into Secret Cove to possibly anchor for the night, but locals had placed buoys -- not real "mooring" buoys -- and crab pots, making it uninviting to anchor. This is a problem throughout B.C.'s south coast. So we continued on to Bargain Bay, which was lovely.)

A new "iron genny" for Pelagia! (Betamarine Beta50)

2026-07-01T11:16:50.645-07:00

Installed: Pelagia's new Betamarine BETA50

HAPPY CANADA DAY!

Our trusty Yanmar (4JHTE) was getting on in years (37 yrs!) and hours (~6600 hrs). It was running well but showed several signs of upcoming issues, some quite pricey. (We received a "worst-case" scenario quote of C$22k!)

We decided to repower.

We looked into getting a new Yanmar, but were put off by several issues: (i) Yanmar's base price was 2x a Betamarine Beta50, (ii) the Yanmar technology was more-advanced "common rail" relying on a electrical control unit (ECU) -- the problem was this would be more sensitive to fuel issues and any repairs would require a Yanmar dealer/mechanic, something not easily found North of Campbell River, and (iii) for the install, the local Yanmar dealer required Pelagia to be hauled out for an unspecified duration (add $$) and there have been issues with work timing here in Vancouver.

We decided on a Betamarine Beta50. The engine is a marinized version of a Kubota tractor engine, so parts and diesel mechanics are easily available. The technology is more simple, thus easier to maintain and repair.

The installation was done by the Canadian Beta distributor Gartside Marine Engines in Sidney BC. We were able to bring Pelagia to their dock and the Yanmar removal and Beta50 install done while Pelagia was still in the water. (There was no charge for time at Gartside's docks.)

Sad seeing the old Yanmar out of the boat...

Of course, the install took longer than planned (well, welcome to boats...), and Pelagia's 3-blade fixed propeller had to be "re-pitched" twice. The first sea trial resulted in smooth engine running but the engine RPMs couldn't get up to the 2800 specifications. This meant a 2nd propeller re-pitch was required. Also, the propeller produced a very loud "singing" for RPMs between 1000-2000 rpm -- something the propeller wizards could correct. The 2nd re-pitching added another week, BUT the end result was success: no more propeller singing and no problem getting RPM up to 2800.

We've had a few cruising days with the new engine: 2 between the second re-pitching (as the problems were discovered on a Friday), and 4 getting the boat back home to Vancouver (including a raucous sail across Georgia Strait).

Gartside also completed some other improvements, such as (i) all-new sound insulation of the engine room after cleaning, (ii) moving the external regulator so that it is now easily accessible, and (iii) new raw water strainer that was moved to a new, easily accessible location.

We also purchased (as an addon) a "NMEA2000" module for the Beta50. David ran cables and hooked this up to our existing NMEA2000 network (upgraded to allow more instruments) yesterday and now we have engine RPM, TEMP and OIL PRESSURE on our chartplotter in the cockpit.

Furuno chartplotter engine display (sample)

SO FAR, we're happy with our new Beta50. The process took longer (4 weeks rather than 2 weeks) than expected, wasn't cheap (but FAR FAR LESS that what a Yanmar installed in Vancouver would have cost us!). We definitely would recommend Gartside Marine Engines (Sidney, BC).

Hopefully it keeps Pelagia going for many years to come.

Now for some Summer cruising....

D's hip replacement...

2026-04-16T13:40:00.000-07:00

6 weeks post-op, all going well. No longer need the cane to walk. Follow-up with surgeon today indicates all well. X-rays show cracked femur has healed well (break occurred during hip replacement procedure).

Fingers crossed for some hiking this Summer (and Fall), sailing (!) and, hopefully, back skiing next season.

Quick getaway... 2 weeks in Thailand

2026-01-31T16:00:00.000-08:00

Prinz Garden Villa pool

Lousy weather, lousy skiing, and some time before D's hip replacement: we decided last-minute to head to Hua Hin Thailand for 2 weeks (deciding/booking only 1 week in advance is very last-minute for us).

An easy short holiday. Good flights on ANA. All connections went well to and from.

In contrast to April 2023, the air quality in Hua Hin in January was much better -- not a problem.

As always, food was a highlight.

Tom Yum noodles soup at a street stand -- delicious

Favourite restaurant was a new (to us) place featuring Northern Thailand food: "Khao Soi".

Khao Soi with crispy chicken

Breakfasts were included in our hotel deal. Almost all lunches were inside the air-conditioned food court at the nearby "Bluport Mall" (best Pad Thai!).

We went to the beach a couple times, but only for walks (laying around on a beach is not our thing):

Hua Hin beach

A nice little trip. And no one caught a cold etc when we returned... bonus!

No sailing this Fall...

2025-12-18T13:10:00.000-08:00

We had planned to head out for 5-7 days over Canadian Thanksgiving (October). But Thursday before Thanksgiving, David came down with a bad cold that shut him down for a couple days. And the weather that weekend was truly horrible, with torrential rains.

Weather for the rest of the Fall continued to be pretty lousy.

So, no trips out on Pelagia this Fall.

Last sail of the Summer (2025): 2 weeks in the Gulf Islands

2025-09-22T13:17:00.000-07:00

Pelagia anchored at Russell Island

One last getaway this Summer: two weeks in the Gulf Islands. Lots of visiting friends and family, a new-to-us anchorage, and some places we haven't visited for a long time.

September 2025 route (red = sailing)

ITINERARY

Night 1: Kendrick Island (A)

Night 2: Clam Bay (A)

Night 3: Maple Bay Yacht Club (D)

Night 4: Russell Island (A*)

Night 5: Deep Cove (A)

Night 6: Tod Inlet (A)

Night 7: Ganges VRC dock (D)

Night 8: Montague Hbr (B)

Nights 9 & 10: Winter Cove (A)

Nights 11 & 12: Otter Bay VRC dock (D)

Night 13: Clam Bay (A)

Night 14: Vancouver home berth

First a nice, gentle sail across the strait to Kendrick Island/Dogfish Bay (becoming a favourite). Empty at first (1 other boat), but quickly 6-7 other boats came in after us (including 1 local boat that insisted on anchoring on top of our anchor... re-anchoring, they still seemed to need to be awfully close). Hey, it isn't supposed to be crowded in mid September!

Next day, a motor through Gabriola Passage (2-3 kn ebb) then a no-wind motor down to Clam Bay. Again, it became busy (although, not "crowded"). D takes a dinghy ride through the Cut and buys a peach pie at the Howling Wolf Farm shop while a white horse hopes for food.

Nothing for me? (Actually, D bought an apple for him, but he disappeared.)

Next morning (another sunny day), we see a boat having trouble getting its anchor up. The middle portion of the Clam Bay anchorage seems to have many reports of a fouled bottom. (We mark the location along with other boats' past issues. An area to avoid!)

Next day (Day 3), we have a dinner-on-Pelagia with a longtime sail and work friend who we haven't seen since pre-Covid times! We moor at the Maple Bay Yacht Club reciprocal dock. A good get together.

Following day, we head to new-to-us Russell Island, following a reconnoitre of the anchorage in Deep Cove near D's sister's house. She had warned me that there were now many mooring buoys. All empty. Turns out, an owner in Deep Cove who doesn't even own a boat to be moored has put several buoys in. Really screwing up the anchorage and REALLY INCONSIDERATE (looking at you Ripley!). We decide we can still anchor next day, but much farther out and deeper than we used to. We continue on to Russell.

Deep Cove: Filled with unused private mooring buoys. Not nice!

Russell Island's anchorage was glassy calm but busier that we expected. Still, we find a spot for the night and go for a nice walk (and picked a few heritage apples). The bottom is a bit rocky so holding a bit so-so, and the anchorage somewhat open. Would not want to be here when the winds are blowing. Still, a quiet night.

Russell Island anchorage (Pelagia is 2nd boat from left)

Next day, back to buoy-filled Deep Cove. A long row to shore ('cause we anchored far out in 60 feet) but we had a very nice evening with family. Haven't anchored here since pre-Covid.

Next day was Tod Inlet (near Butchart Gardens). Maybe 13+ years since we've been here. The anchorage was very busy -- almost Desolation-Sound-crowded (OK, not quite... apparently it does get overcrowded in July-August). Nevertheless, we find a good spot. We then meet ex-cruiser buddies (formerly of SV Carousel) Gillian and David out at the road, and go out for lunch and then a walk around Brentwood Bay.

Time to get a few food items etc*, so next day we head over to Ganges on Saltspring Island and get lucky finding a spot on the VRC outstation dock. (*we could easily have shopped near Brentwood Bay.)

We found Ganges too busy and the marina not-so-welcoming, so we decided to stay just 1 night. Next day we were going to go to Winter Cove, but southerly winds made it a bit bouncy, so we headed in to Montague Harbour. There were lots of buoys available (indeed a couple remained all night -- finally, the crowds seemed to be dwindling).

Next day, it was calm and we motored down to Winter Cove. Only a few boats so lots of room for anchoring. Sunny and calm, we went for a walk and went kayaking. So nice, we stayed 2 nights.

Boat Passage, Winter Cove

Required selfie: At Winter Point (Saturna Is) with mainland mountains behind

We have another (our last) get together the next day over on North Pender Island. Space was available at the VRC dock (both spaces!) at Otter Bay Marina. Later, we are picked up by cruising buddies Wayne and Lee (of SV Chanter) and we have an enjoyable dinner with them at their home (during which, we get to see Wayne's fantastic trains).

Wayne among his trains (which are impressive)

Next day called for big NW winds in the Strait of Georgia (25-30 kt) and likely some in the islands. We decided to stay put on the dock at Otter Bay. Woke up to ashes all over the boat (from forest fires on the Olympic Peninsula, not Mt. St. Helens); D surreptitiously did a quick rinse off ("no boat washing" allowed... though later many other did more thorough washes). Sunny and warm, we even went for a swim in one of the marina's two pools.

Next day, the winds were down to 10-12 kn so we headed up to Clam Bay, to get ready for a morning transit of Porlier Pass and hopefully a sail across the strait (and hopefully not too strong winds). A quiet night in Clam Bay, with fewer boats than previous time.

Our last day, we indeed had a good sail back across Georgia Strait from outside of Porlier Pass: started out NW 17kt but very soon decreased to about 12-13 kt. An easy sail, although heeled-over for awhile at the start. Winds died at the Pt. Grey bell buoy.

An excellent 2-week cruise in the Gulf Islands, fun catching up with friends and family. Mostly motoring but bookended with good sailing on the first and last days.

A new stove for Pelagia

2025-09-19T14:32:00.000-07:00

In its box, ready to install

Our old Force 10 stove was about 40 years old. It had served its two owners very well. Lately, the burners were burning yellow and sometimes poofing (?) out. Michelle suggested she wanted a new stove for her birthday. David worried about the cost (well over C$3000) but started looking, daunted by the thought of the money and all the work required.

Old dependable no more...

It was the propane sniffer (rather, multiple sniffers) that quickly made up out mind. Suddenly, we had 3 different sniffers telling us there was a leak. So, time for a new stove.

We looked into both Force 10 and Dickinson stoves. A review on YouTube thankfully made it clear the Dickinson wouldn't work for us: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRuda57AHk4

D read and re-read the Force 10 literature, and finally got help re sizes directly from folks at Force 10 (here in British Columbia). The North American Standard size would fit (both 3- and 4-burner models were identical sizes) our stove space. They were now 2-3 cm taller, but still would fit.

The 4-burner was C$1000 pricier, was not in stock so might entail a substantial shipping charge, and would require about 4 weeks for delivery. (In the 17 years we've had Pelagia, we've never used all 3 burners on our old stove.) The 3-burner Force 10 was in stock at Steveston Marine, and I could pick it up in 2 days. No delivery charge. The price was not cheap (~C$3700 with taxes)... we could buy 2-4 stoves at Home Depot for home for that price. Yeah, it's a boat, so special boat prices.

I had some help from neighbours on the docks at VRC lifting the stove into the boat (Thank you Jonathon and Greg!). After some minor modifications, the stove fit beautifully and gimballed back-and-forth perfectly. And it is very shiny.

AND! No more propane sniffer alarm!

The shiny new Force 10 3-burner installed

Video: gimballed stove heating up kettle while we sail across Strait of Georgia

Over-Crowded Desolation (July/August 2025)

2025-08-13T10:20:00.000-07:00

Roscoe Bay: totally packed

Refuge Cove: Boats motoring around waiting to get fuel or groceries

Seriously overcrowded in the main anchorages (spilling over to crowd the "alternate" anchorages). Majority of boats are from the USA. Not everybody is respectful of others.

We value uncrowded, wilderness-like anchorages. You won't find this in Desolation Sound area in July-August! That's why we go much farther north (even if the weather and waters are colder).

Summer 2025 on Pelagia

2025-08-04T12:01:00.000-07:00

Pelagia's 2025 route (Southern portions): RED = sailing

Pelagia's 2025 route (Northern portions): RED = sailing

We got away by mid June, and enjoyed (mostly) 7 weeks cruising on Pelagia.

Approximately 4 weeks were spent in the Broughtons, with not quite 2 weeks in Desolation Sound/Discovery Islands area. The Broughtons were not at all crowded (though busier than past) and the daytime temperatures comfortable (14-17 degrees C). Desolation Sound by late July/early August was crazy over-crowded, made worse by being too hot.

Typical weather in the Broughtons

As we've suggested before, spending much time in Desolation Sound in July and August isn't worth it ... just too crowded. Too many boaters with many not exactly being considerate of others.

One thing we noticed: a significant percentage of USA boats were not flying their USA flag. Perhaps embarassed? A small percentage flew neither their USA flag nor a Canadian "courtesy" flag. Who did they think they were fooling? (Perhaps they were just "unaware" of normal, accepted practice.) As far as we could tell, USA boats were treated well here in Canada, just like any other boats.

In total, our trip to/from the Broughtons was 626 nautical miles, of which we sailed 164 nm (about 26%, not terrible). And we did have some great sails: down Johnstone Strait with winds from behind reaching 30 kn at Fanny Island; all the way up Malaspina Strait for out longest sail (37 nm).

We anchored out 37 nights and stayed 11 nights at docks (as usual, our favourite was/is Sointula, which we visited 2x). We anchored in 4 new-to-us anchorages (2 of them twice because we liked them so much).

It might have been cooler and more comfortable up in the Broughtons (though certainly not sunbathing or ocean swimming weather), but we really only had 3 days of true rain. Fog and drizzle, however, were regular.

We had a couple weeks cruising with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, up to Sointula. Sadly, they had to leave us, and we missed them.


Chanter (left) and Pelagia (right) sailing across Queen Charlotte Strait

Last morning with Chanter: saying goodbye

Unfortunately, we had to cut short our trip due to some persistent muscle/tendon aches and pains that needed attending by a physio and doctor back home. These problems made long walks, hiking or kayaking difficult.

We hope to get better clarity on the aches and pains and to be able to go back out on Pelagia late August or more likely September. And by then the Summer crowds will have substantially decreased.

[Photos to come.]

Made it to the Broughtons!

2025-07-02T09:23:00.001-07:00

Canada Day in Sointula

Four relaxing days/nights at the dock in Sointula.


Pelagia sailing across to Cullen Harbour (July 2)

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And we're off! (Summer 2025)

2025-06-17T09:47:00.001-07:00

After weeks of plumbing repairs 😢 on Pelagia by David, we're finally off.

Headed up to Pender Harbour yesterday (Monday), even getting a nice sail for almost half the way.

Today we are headed up Malaspina Strait with 10-20 kn winds behind... great easy sailing! Hope to get to Desolation Sound today.

[Update: Indeed, we had a great sail from Cape Cockburn (pronounced "coburn") to Cortes Island.]

Current plans are 6 (maybe 7-8) weeks on the boat, going at least as far as Sointula and the Broughtons.

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Springtime sail

2025-04-23T11:12:00.000-07:00

Anchored in Pirates Cove

Spring has definitely returned to southwestern British Columbia!

We got away for a 4-night/5-day cruise to and from the Gulf Islands over the Easter weekend. Mostly sunny weather. We started out with 2 nights on a mooring buoy in Montague Harbour, 1 night anchored in Clam Bay, and finally 1 night anchored in Pirates Cove. (It has been years since we last anchored in Pirates Cove, as it is usually overcrowded and notorious for anchor dragging. But is was nearly empty and calm this Easter.)

Finished off with a good sail fully across Georgia Strait after transiting Gabriola Passage.

At end of the sailing, off Stanley Park, starting the engine we found no water pumping out. We quickly dropped anchor and David troubleshooted things, including pulling the raw water pump impeller (which was OK). Putting it all back together, all was working fine. We think the bouncy sail produced an air lock in the raw water circuit, something we've never seen on Pelagia. We arrived back at home berth, perhaps 2 hours late.

A very nice weekend (despite the drama at the end).

Easter 2025 cruise: motor (blue) and sail (green)

Another short cruise: Gulf Islands

2024-10-25T18:00:00.015-07:00

Pelagia anchored in Princess Cove (Wallace Island)

A last-minute decision -- made 10am in Squamish -- we had a short weather window (4-5 days), so we headed out on Pelagia. Made it across Georgia Strait (motoring, no wind) to Dogfish Bay (Kendrick Island) just as it was getting dark. It was quite cool outside (approx. 7 deg C), but our hydronic heating kept us warm (turned off while sleeping!).

Next morning, we motored in the sun through Gabriola Passage then down to Wallace Island, anchoring alone (free swinging) in Princess Bay (a major benefit of cruising in the Fall... Mid-May through mid-September, Princess Cove would be packed with stern-tied boats, and free-swinging "discouraged").

Went for the usual hike to Chivers Point (approximately 2 hrs return). Later in the afternoon, we fired-up our Dickinson heater (first time since the williwaws in Anna Inlet, in 2022) -- this kept the main cabin even toastier than the hydronic furnace (both systems provide hot water for showers, etc). Not needed under the covers in our v-berth.

Wallace Island had some particularly large mushrooms!

On the dinghy heading back to Pelagia

We had hoped to meet up with friends Wayne and Lee on SV Chanter, but with such short notice, they were already booked. Maybe next time.

Weather forecast was for really nasty winds (and rain) and combined with timing of slack current in the passes, we decided to cross back across Georgia Strait a day earlier. Rather than going back to our berth at the Vancouver Rowing Club, however, we decided to spend a night at the VRC outstation dock at Snug Cove (Bowen Island). The trip across was mostly a motor, but we did get a nice gentle sail for 5nm.

Next morning, we headed back to our VRC berth and then drove home to Squamish. The bad weather started that night (winds up to 40kn, plus rain).

A nice trip, but far too short!

Our route (approximately 88 nm)

A short hike surrounded by mushrooms (Four Lakes hike)

2024-10-15T18:00:00.062-07:00

Alice Lake Provincial Park is only a few minutes drive (5 km) north of Squamish. The park has several hikes, including the easy 7.5-km "Four Lakes Hike". The hike can be done clockwise (as we did) or anti-clockwise. Going clockwise, one goes first to Stump Lake, then Fawn Lake, then Edith lake, then finally back down to popular (and busy in the summer) Alice Lake.

A good trail... lots of "green"

Fawn Lake... a good place for lunch

More green...

This year appears to be a bumper year for mushrooms. On this hike, we saw more than we'd ever seen before. We don't pick them, however, as (i) picking plants, including mushrooms, is illegal in BC Parks, and (ii) we do not have expertise identifying mushrooms.

We're happy to look and take photos.

The hike took us just under 2 hours (excluding stops). A little long for us, but David is still trying t get back into shape.

We ended the hike at Alice Lake's beaches:

At Alice Lake (Mt. Garibaldi & Atwell Peak in the distance)