Sailing "Songerie"

So long “Songerie ”

2023-11-04T04:26:00.001+00:00

February 2023, We sold our beloved Songerie and bought a 43ft Beneteau Idylle built in 1986.

Our plan is to keep on doing charters for a couple of years before we head to the Pacific.

Our lovely new boat is named “Chrija-Maria”, named after both our extraordinary fabulous mothers. Christelle’s mom Chrija and Jaco’s Maria Helena.

Outdoor cooking with rum

2021-03-29T17:19:00.000+01:00

Friends!

With immense joy we share with you the first chapter of our cooking channel. Outdoor Cooking with Rum. Filmed during the COVID 19 pandemic, in paradise.

Comment, like, share, subscribe on the YouTube channel! (It costs nothing for you, but can make a big difference to us!)

If you like it, we publish more

Al is great onboard Songerie.

2021-03-28T16:55:00.006+01:00

It's almost 3 years since our last update.

We have been sailing around in the Northwest Caribbean and then to the Southwest Caribbean.

We arrived March 2019 in San Blas, Panama.

Before Covid, we started taking guests on-board Songerie. (2 persons for 3 to 5 day all inclusive cruise in the San Blas)
the following is our link to airbnb
airbnb.com/h/best-san-blas-sailboat-snorkel-spearfishing-derted-island-budget-trip

Hopefully the San Blas will re-open soon for tourists. Then we will resume chartering.

During hurricane season and Covid we kept ourselves busy by filming a cooking channel with the help of our sailor filmmaker friends.

We will soon give the link to this channel.

Please subscribe and share this channel with your friends and family!

Back at Bay Islands, Guanaja and Roatan, May/June 2018

2018-08-01T20:52:00.001+01:00

Dunbar rock.

The sail from Cuba to Guanaja was uneventful, we had no lures out due to masses of sargassum seaweed islands floating as far as our eyes could see.(see note below)
The wind died already on day two, leaving us on a very frustrating two day motor to Guanaja. Extremely unusual total calm conditions persisted the following 3 weeks, while Cuba faced stormy conditions. (I was relieved that we were not there!)

Approaching Bonacca/Sheen cay

We arrived at the same time as catamaran Halcyon, they from Provedencia. Immediately we enjoyed each others company and free-dived together the beautiful reefs of Guanaja. (Some of the most beautiful coral I have seen)
When we could not stand any more the insect-life (no-see-ums) of Guanaja, we motored together to Roatan, stopping at Pigeon cays on the way. (Still absolute calm conditions.)

Sandy eye-balling at the reef at Pigeon cays.

Very seldom possible to anchor here at this spectacular reef.

Pigeon cays are open to the south-east, making it not possible to anchor here in typical easterlies .
We thoroughly enjoyed an over-night here in this calm crystal clear water and diving these beautiful reefs.
After 2 weeks our paths split with Halcyon, them going on to Belize and us while this calms persisted, returning to Guanaja. For a change to the North-west side.

Lovely scenery on the North west side of Guanaja, Michael rock.

Mmmm a cero catch of the day!

Lovely village of Mangrove bight.

Mermaid of Carriacou

At the entrance to the galley of Mermaid of Carriacou.

Love his newly added fold-able dish washing basin .

We spend a couple of nights at Michael rock anchorage then moved between the reefs on to Mangrove bight where we stayed almost a week visiting our South African friends, Gus and Sally whom recently build a house here.

Another highlight of our time in Guanaja was when Jaco helped John Smith, an eccentric sailor, with Open CPN Charts. 70 year old, John is one of a dying breed of salt stained, single handed Real Sailors.
Although I (Christelle) will never be able to sail on a boat like this, I highly value, appreciate and admire this captain and his wooden, engine-less gaff-rigged sloop, Mermaid of Carriacou.

Quote from his web page: "Exactly why this particular beach-built vessel is so remarkable is difficult to say, yet easily felt once aboard her worn, rough-hewn decks. Her planks - her very bones! - seem to radiate a sense of freedom, contentment and rare possibility"

View from the cockpit.

Relaxed on a dorie bench in front of our friends house.

When the easterlies came back we sailed to Roatan, Jonesville bight.
Here the dogs love the daily walk in the stunning forest and for variation swimming in the clear water.

After the Jonesville pirate party we sailed to Calabash where we tied up at Ed and Julie's dock. Here Songerie will rest for the next few months while we house- and pet-sit until Ed and Julie return on their monohull yacht sailing from Canada.

All the prawn and lobster boats are getting ready for the next season starting soon.

Small cars for narrow roads.

Famous captain Ed at Hole in the Wall bar... love the way every old sailor (whom don't sail any more) call themselves captain!

Songerie tied up at her home for at least next 3 months!

Just before I flew to Namibia, leaving Jaco and the dogs behind for 7 weeks, we met Paul and Marlene. Ex South African and brother-in-law of great friends of Christelle's parents, but moving back to South Africa.

Long story short: we know about him in Honduras for the past 6 years, but never found him until 2 weeks before he left Honduras for the last time!!
We had a lovely BBQ and few wines together aboard Songerie.

I found this interesting article on internet concerning the masses of seaweed.
http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2018/06/mysterious-masses-seaweed-assault-caribbean-islands

Mysterious masses of seaweed assault Caribbean islands
By Katie LanginJun. 11, 2018 , 5:20 PM

In retrospect, 2011 was just the first wave. That year, massive rafts of Sargassum—a brown seaweed that lives in the open ocean—washed up on beaches across the Caribbean, trapping sea turtles and filling the air with the stench of rotting eggs. “It presented immense challenges,” says Hazel Oxenford, a fisheries biologist at The University of the West Indies in Cave Hill, Barbados. Before then, beachgoers had sometimes noticed “little drifty bits on the tideline,” but the 2011 deluge of seaweed was unprecedented, she says, piling up meters thick in places. “We’d never seen it before.”

Locals hoped the episode, a blow to tourism and fisheries, was a one-off. But a few years later “it came back worse,” Oxenford says. Now, the Caribbean is bracing for what could be the mother of all seaweed invasions, with satellite observations warning of record-setting Sargassum blooms and seaweed already swamping beaches. The Barbados government declared a national emergency on 7 June. “It’s catastrophic,” says James Franks, a marine biologist at The University of Southern Mississippi in Ocean Springs, who is one of many scientists trying to explain why a part of the ocean that was once seaweed-free is now rife with Sargassum. “Right now there’s [another] huge mass impacting Puerto Rico, and that’s the last thing they need.”

and more.....

Few more weeks in Cuba then Sail/ Motor back to Bay Islands, April 2018

2018-07-29T17:47:00.000+01:00

As usual we find Songerie far too quiet after our friends left.
Luckily we met on the beach at Cayo Largo, a Canadian couple, Frederick and Aline. After we bumped into them the following day at the bar and enjoyed their company a lot, we invited them for a day snorkeling and a lobster BBQ on-board Songerie.
The deal was for them to bring ice and whatever veggies they can get at their hotel, cause we had just zero luck on finding anything! (2 days later after Jaco complained at the marina manager/old friend, he organised a box of whatever was available on the island...sweet peppers, potatoes, aubergine and cabbage)
Geared with ice, mint and carrots (wow an absolute contraband item in this area) we welcomed them on-board. First we motored 2,5 NM to Higo de Ballenatos reef anchorage where we all snorkeled. A day filled with a lot of fun, sun and rum.(great mojitos due to Aline's professional bar experience!) Then back to the Sarena anchorage for a lobster BBQ while we were being eaten alive by mossies, but it did not stop us from having a good time. Thanx you two, hope to see you soon again on-board Songerie! Next time for a longer stay.

This T-shirt now belongs to Jaco, the reason why we met them and was given as present at the end of the day trip.

Time to set sail for a last visit at Campos.

And Coco wins....

Jaco and Coco racing at our private low tide island!

And Canela wins....

A last (for the season) strong cold front was heading our way. We decided to sit it out at Cayo Campos, because the anchorage at Cayo Largo was getting very full with a lot of charter boats, that normally know very little about safe anchoring.

When the cold front passed, we spend a blissful week here (again only non-french flag boat) where Jaco, fished Cubera snappers, grouper, a mackerel... Sashimi! Then a very big Cubera, that I bottled for eating later in Honduras.

We moved slowly back to Cayo Largo where we checked out of Cuba and waited at Rosario anchorages for a 3 day weather window to set sail for Honduras.

New fish scale...

(9.5kg Cubera)

preparing fish for smoking.

Christelle's favourite horse-eye jack and mutton snapper.

According to our weather forecast guru, there were no perfect window in the near future. Our only option would be a two day sail and the last day the wind would die totally, leaving us to motor. (After this there would be no wind for a few weeks!!)
We were a bit lonely with no friends left here, had no dog-food (an absolute non existing item on Cuban South coast)or fresh vegetables left. Although Coco and Canela love fish and rice they always look for their dry food at sunset! After a last stunning Cuban sunset and celebrating our meeting date, we set sail on the 1st of May for Guanaja.

To meeting each other 25 years ago!

Under way these swallows seeked an overnight resting place. Sadly the one was too weak and died during the evening. The following morning the partner circled Songerie twice before it flew away.

Nico and Motte visit in Cuba, March/April 2018

2018-07-22T14:38:00.000+01:00

Part One: Cienfuegos and Trinidad

Passing through this canal entrance to Ciefuegos for the 16th time!

Welcome on-board Songerie, Nico and Motte!

Love Cuban engineering.

Jaco and I met Nico in 1993, the same year that we met each other. (Making him one of our longest, greatest friends, and at the same time he was Jaco's opposition company back in Namibia) He and Motte arrived at long last after a unforeseen longer stay in Brazil!
From here on for 3 weeks, we shared endless smiles, laughter, mojitos, pina coladas, sunshine and a helluva lot of Havana Club, Anejo Especial rum.

Transport to load our shopping, including the huge bag at their feet = carbon...charcoal @ 2.5 U$/bag.

With Tikaroa being available to look after the dogs and Songerie, we grabbed the opportunity to visit Trinidad by old car/taxi.

Nico, Jaco , the taxi driver and the gorgeous old car. (OK the men are not too bad looking as well)

Now this is what I call a mojito.

Sun-downers for tonight, Canchanchara, a cocktail born in Trinidad are made from rum-honey-lime-soda water served in a ceramic cup.

Cuban cocktails, friendly staff, live salsa band and a pig on a spit.... Cuba.

And this a Piña Colada.

We stayed in a "casa particular " on the brink of the old city.
Nico and Motte's room reminded us of the purple silk interior of a casket! Never the less, it was clean and comfortable.

We strolled around town all day long, visiting sites, buying hats, souvenirs and unwinding now and again with a cocktails and live music.

After a light supper we joined the young crowd around town square, listening to various bands, quenching our thirst from street cafe's with mojitos and pina coladas.

Street cafe with salsa bands all around the clock.

Views of Trinidad from the clock tower..

Back in Cienfuegos, we stocked up on beverages and what-ever fresh veggies were available. (Cienfuegos market hardly had anything, a shocking difference from last year. It was noticeable how most of the Cubans were struggling to make ends meet. Some say due to the past seasons hurricanes.)
At last we set sail for Cayo Largo.

Part two: Sail South coast of Cuba.

Avalos beach where we took long walks before Jaco and Nico saw tracks of a man size crocodile!

We spend a couple of days at Cayo Largo, starting every terrific sunshine day by taking the dogs on a long walk on the Playa Serena beach and ending each afternoon with a perfect sunset after another long walk and swim.

Avalos.

As soon as the weather permit, we set sail for Cayo Campos with stopovers at both Rosario anchorages, then Avalos reef and lighthouse anchorage.
When Jaco tried to anchor as close as possible to the beach at Avalos, we got stuck in shallow water. Jaco first dropped by dingy an anchor in deeper water. Next while Coco and Canela encouraged them on the bow, Nico and Jaco pulled in the anchor, while I steered at full speed. This exercise took about an hour before we got off the sand bank. (No point in hoisting a sail, as the wind was pushing us more on to the shallow. )

The shallow water exercise.

Relieved, taking the anchor rum.

Provisioning. Cubera and Mutton snappers.

I've got my eye on you!

Nico's catch of the day, pan fried for breakfast.

We sailed through the reef passage on the South side when Nico caught a good size Barracuda. Thus entering Campos at the South side for a night at this rolly anchorage. Great friend JP on-board Ti-bag was ready to assist us, when we passed the shallow sand bar to the monkey anchorage at Campos. (Luckily we never saw less than a foot under our keel at high tide.)

Daily dolphin visits at Campos.

Mesmerizing turquoise waters of Campos.

The monkey sanctuary.

Local fishing boat, Ti-bag and their side kick Lady Athena. The South entrance shows clearly in the background.

Catch of the day, Nassau grouper and cubera snapper.

8 kg Cubera snapper.

Day of Pina coladas and smoking fish.

Where's the fish?

We spend the next week at Cayo Campos.
We found a excellent sand bar on low tide for the dogs to run. This made Cayo Campos one of our favourite anchorages in Cuba.
The staff at the monkey island were very friendly, the dogs got their daily exercise, excellent fishing, beautiful snorkeling for novices (like Nico, Motte and myself) and all this in turquoise waters!

I loved the way Nico joined Jaco everyday to the hunting grounds. He snorkeled a little while, then wait patiently for Jaco to return to the dingy with today's meal on string.

This gave me and Motte time to get a bit of order inside Songerie, cleaning and time to prepare lunch and plan tonight's feast with yesterdays catch.

Every day topping the previous day. Jaco provided from the sea to the galley and out came an abundance of lobster -cocktails,- BBQ, -steamed; cracked conch, conch pasta and fish- BBQ, -smoked, -tempura, -paella , the list carry on and on.

When we exchanged a bottle of rum for ice and coconuts, the 4 of us celebrated as if it was someones birthday!

The excellent sand bar at low tide.

Shoe tree on the shore at Rosarrio east.

Beach at Rosario east, another favourite anchorage.

Ever wondered what happens to all the plastic you use? We find it at every windward shore of every uninhibited island we visit from Venezuela to Belize... the whole of the Caribbean, a lot of this plastic coming probably from across the Atlantic!

Wondering what Jaco can be looking for? He lost the cap of one of our water cans, and is looking for replacement!

Back at Playa Serena.

Nico played every sunset with the 2 dogs on the coach roof,

And so comes another great time to an end. It's been relaxing with no hiccups with 2 very easy going guests.
When Nico and Motte left to the airport, Coco refused to go back to the dingy, signally to us that we forgot our friends! After all the attention they got from Nico they were noticeable sad when all of the sudden Songerie is quiet again.
The 2 dogs absolutely love having visitors on-board Songerie. I think that they blame us for every time people leave the boat!

Coco kissing Nico, his newly adopted godfather.

Hope to share a beautiful sunset with you two on-board Songerie very soon again.

Buddy boating - Honduras to Gran Cayman and Cuba, March 2018

2018-07-17T01:49:00.000+01:00

Tikaroa on a Close haul tack on the way to Gran Cayman.

By beginning March and still howling easterlies, we took the first "window" to Gran Cayman. The plan according to our forcast involved first day sailing N on a beam reach in moderate E winds with a strong NW current.(doing most easting possible) Day two motor- sailing on a close haul NNE in predicted light SE winds, then hopefully by midnight we would find ourselves NW of Cayman, to turn SE in the predicted NE winds. By sunset, day three we had to be at Cayman before anther Norther comes in at midnight.

The points of sail:
A. Into the wind; shaded:
"no-go zone" where a craft may be "in irons".
B. Close-hauled
C. Beam reach
D. Broad reach
E. Running

All went more or less as planned except the winds were either stronger or lighter and the South in the wind did not really happen.
Both our boats's auto pilots gave in, that meant taking turns to manual steer. (our hydrovane does not work while motor sailing into the wind.)
Then our engine stopped on day two, 100 NM from Cayman to the East of us or Swan Islands to the South of us!! We turned around with Tikaroa still in our wake. Luckily Jaco found the fault... turned again. Day three we found ourselves in about 18 knots and 8 ft seas on a close haul. But we pulled through and arrived extremely relieved by 14h00. By 8 pm all checked in and tied up on a mooring ball on the south side, before the Norther set in, we joined our buddy-boat for a looong rum!

The beauty of the trip was cruising with a buddy boat in our wake, dolphins on our bow under clear skies and in full moon!!
.

Very busy harbour at Gran Cayman. First few days we had to anchor, no moorings available.

Canela agreed with us that the skipper is a tad too close! Tikaroa thought they were going to tie-up with us!

3rd time in our lives, when reaching Cuba a tired swallow join us.
Resting for a day on-board Songerie

We spend a week at Cayman filling our hatches with delicatessens from all over the world.

As soon as the wind turned E, we set sail for Cuba. The choice was either departing Friday late night in howling E winds and big seas and rain squills at Cuba or leaving Saturday midday in strong E but subsiding by midnight and possible motor the last half day. Besides that I really did not feel like another strong wind conditions, had Jaco and I our time wrong and missed checking out on Friday.... We motored half the way.

Hee Hahhhh, guess were we are?

Rest my case....

Tikaroa tribe feasting on lobster on-board Songerie. Jaco, Coco infront, Yan and Ludo.

We dropped anchor just before sunset, but still enough sun light for Jaco , Yan and son, Ludo, to find a fish and enough lobster for a nights supper feast and Lobster omelet the following morning.

Upon checking in the following day at Cayo Largo we paid the U$200 fee for our boat and received the shocking news that boats have to pay for anchoring within a 5 NM of the marina. Receiving no benefits like fresh water or wi-fi etc. Total rip-off!!!

We stayed a few days anchored at Playa Serena paying 12 U$ per day. Together with Tikaroa we sailed to Cayo Rico then on to Rosario East stopping on the way collecting fish for the children's coming birthdays.

Nothing like a Cuban mojito.

Sun downers and ceviche with Tikaroa at Playa Serena.

OH, how the dogs love running on this beach.

One night stop over at Rico.

We stopped for a night at Playa Rico where we loved exploring the most beautiful beach, but a bit rolly anchorage.
Perfect for North to Northeast winds, open for East.

We spend a couple of nights at Rosario East. Celebrating both Ludo and Coco's birthdays.

When the winds died down and turned a bit South, we set sail East to Cienfuegos, where our Namibian friends are waiting for us.

Wish we can always have a stunning beach a dingy ride away for Canela.

Dogs welcoming the tribe to the beach.

Gin waters of Cuba.

Quick stop on the way to Rosario East.

Tikaroa at a perfect sunset. So sad our buddy -boating came to an end at Cienfuegos ... we truly miss dropping anchor with them next to us!

Back to Bay Islands and Sail to Cayo Cochinos, Feb 2018

2018-07-15T15:33:00.001+01:00

Friendly Adele and the two of us.

Adele, ex South African, recognised my typical Afrikaner English accent at the Placencia telephone shop. When hearing we are sailors from Namibia, she immediately invited Jaco and I (and the dogs) for a Ex-pats-South African BBQ.
Adele, Christo and Lee spoiled us with great wine, succulent pork chops and chicken marinated in Mrs. Balls chutney.(Best chutney from home.) Just the right medicine to kick us out of our depression after our friends left for home!
A curious wild Red-lored parrot also came for something to nibble on!

Canela on-board Nice Tri.

A day on-board a tri-maran.

Few days before we left Placencia, Jaco recovered an anchor (worth about 800 U$) with about 25 m of chain for a Turkish trimaran "Nice tri" with Celine(we enjoyed her and her excellent cooking a lot) and Denis on-board.
After a delicious lunch served by Celine, Jaco dove without bottles in murky water at 18 m unwinding the chain from an old shipwreck for about 2 hours. He then lifted all the chain and anchor alone while Denis supervised from the front of the dingy. At the end of the day, Jaco was rewarded by a slice of cake, no raki cause he could not manage getting a fish while recovering all!!!
When we arrived back to our anchorage at Placencia, Denis did not feel like putting the engine on his dingy, Jaco rowed to Songerie to fetch our dingy then bring the family back to Songerie!!!Ho? Ha!

Lodge at Drowned cays.

Drowned cay anchorage.

We slowly made our way north again direction Turneffe for a better angle to sail to Roatan.

When a vigorous Cold front approached Belize, we tugged close to mangroves at Drowned cays. Although the boat lays to the current and not the wind, its still a very safe and good sand holding anchorage for North winds.
The following day, the rain diminished, but the wind stayed strong NNE. We set sail under reefed main for Turneffe.

A few days later another strong Cold front passed our area. This time we tugged very close behind the private hotel on the South side, also very good sand holding for West to North winds.

Late afternoon when the weather settled down a bit, we set sail for Roatan, our aim to reach Jonesville before the next strong cold front reach Roatan. The night was pitch dark(dark moon), strong rain squills and steep seas. A horrible, dark, wet sail.
The following morning, approaching Roatan the wind and rain diminished, but the swell stayed huge. By midday in unsuspected (according to our weather guru Chris we should have benign conditions) 30 knots southwest winds we dropped anchor in Jonesville.

There goes our last anchor rum,Anita and Joep!

Mutton snapper at Turneffe.

The bay of Jonesville bight.

Live music at Trico bar.

The rest of the month we spend at various anchorages of Roatan and Guanaja.
Beginning February, we met up with the "Tikaroa" tribe, Yan and Marie- Claude with their 3 children and cousin.

Mmmm sashimi! We were lucky to sail through a fish frenzy and caught a bonito on our way to Guanaja.

Oh no, not all for me? Coco

Mom's 2 wolholle!

February = wet , wetter , Guanaja!

Spectacular scenery walking along the mountain with the dogs.

Fetch! Coco's favourite game.

View from our favourite restaurant "Mi Casa Too".

Back in Jonesville Bight , anchored at "Hole in the wall" during a week of sustained 30 to 35, gusting to 40 knot easterlies.

After meeting up with Tikaroa at French harbour, we sailed together to Cayo Cochinos islands, on a shake- down cruise.

Cochinos consist of two small islands and 13 small coral cays situated 30 kilometres (19 mi) northeast of La Ceiba. The islands are a Marine Protected Area, the National Geographic writes, "The waters around this collection of coral cays are a marine biologist's dream: protected by the government, off-limits to commercial divers and fishermen, and busy with creatures that may not yet have names."
The park provides 4 moorings. (we found 2 more, but their rope and mooring ball broke of) One should inspect the rope, cause ours was old where-as Tikaroa's mooring rope was new and strong.

Here we spend an enjoyable week, snorkeling various spots, beach BBQs, exploring the island trails and a day trip by dingy to the friendly local island.

To end a perfect week, we celebrated Marie-Claude's birthday the day before we returned to Jonesville.

Local transport with S/V Tikaroa in the background

Visit a Garifuna bar.

The two Cochinos islands in the background

Garifuna houses on the tiny tourist cay.

Jaco and Yan at a local sail boat.

Songerie and Tikaroa on mooring.

View from the light house. Main land in the background.

Tikaroa under sail on our way to Jonesville.

What more can I say?! Guess who's the boss?

Anita and Joep sailing video on board Songerie

2018-07-09T10:19:00.002+01:00

Short sail video along Belize.

Anita and Joep, Blue water Sail along Belize, January 2018

2018-07-08T14:31:00.000+01:00

"Het jy al ingegooi - nee ek soek nog die glase!" sorry this cannot translate to another language

Catching up on stories from Namibia.

We weighed anchor at Livingston at 19h00, to cross the sand bar before high tide, about 20h00. Tension was running high on-board knowing the river is lower than normal and we have 2 extra persons, their luggage and extra provisions for a couple of weeks....(beer, rum, wine and yeah some food). Jaco stayed at the steering while the rest of us gathered on the bow to try and lift the keel. He saw 0 on the depth sounder at times crossing the bar, but we "plowed" through the soft mud and dropped anchor at Tres Puntas 2 hours later.

arrival at Ranguana, Belize.

An unforeseen Westerly blew all night. Which caused a swell rolling in together with a agonizing chop picking up from across the bay. Then to top this, Jaco's back went into a spasm, luckily Anita was on-board to massage his back and Joep could assist me with the anchor, when our snubber broke from the chop.
Joep impressed us all, willing to prepared supper in this uncomfortable hop, skip and jump conditions. From now on we compare any anchorage to Tres Puntas! (Un Punta, Dos Puntas or Tres Puntas depedng on the comfort. )

The sail the following day to Ranguana (Belize) went uneventful, with moderate winds.
The only exception was mayhem when the reel screamed and Jaco caught a good size King Mackerel.

Hee hah....diving on the anchor in clear water again.

King Mackerel catch of the day.

Master fish processor.

Mmm... sashimi and Carpaccio

Delicious!

Joep got for the first time acquainted with conch.

He helped diving for them;
then the slimy-gooey cleaning of it with is teeth;
and then of course feasting on it, served in various different forms from the galley.

Dolphins welcoming us at anchor.

Strong rum cocktails at Ranguana, the smiles says it all...

Best friends! Cheers to many more exotic destinations!

Christelle was relieved for Joep's help to weigh anchor.

Successfully checked in and "robbed"of a couple of 100 Dollars in Placencia!

Jaco and I have a custom to celebrate a new country with sparkling wine.
Lobster head meat fried in garlic butter served with paw paw and crackers made for excellent snacks accompanying the sparkles for the celebration.

Home made Piña colada

All smiles...

Best ingredient for any recipe are eager consumers!

Getting in the Christmas spirit when Songerie was transformed by colouful lights.

This years hanging Christmas tree is made from driftwood, seashells from Venezuela and decorated with the lights.

Next few days we slowly sailed North in the direction of Turneffe, with stop overs at Bluefield and Blueground range.

Joep caught a perfect size spanish mackerel and Jaco supplied the galley with a hog fish.

Catch of the day.

And Joep got the biggest one!!

Lobster served in butter white wine sauce.

Hah, another catch of the day, baracuda panfried in lime and butter for breakfast

Jaco filled the fridge with a wide selection of fish. Enough for the next few days!

Never miss an opportunity to take a looong shower!

Eyeballing when we motor through the reef .

Getting decent for a Christmas dinner.

Christmas wishes from the Dolphins at a perfect sunset.

Pretty lady on-board.

How beautiful they clean up!!

Yeah ,even us clean up well.

Roasted stuffed turkey, cooked according to a Portuguese recipe.

The weather played along to add to a perfect memorable Christmas at Turneffe.
We had rain when clean up was needed and clear skies the rest of the time.

Jaco and Joep got ample food from the sea to ensure a festive time ahead!

We took the dogs for a walk and Anita for tressure hunt (collecting shells and old coral) at a tiny strip beach.
To reach the beach, one walk through shallow water and sharps coral. All had a quite a laugh when we ended up collecting old shoes for our soft feet!

Joep and Anita were at home in Songeries galley, preparing delisious breaksfast feasts.

Fashionable shoes.

struggle back to the dingy.

Great sail to Tobacco Cay.

We anchored at the various spots at Turneffe and when a cold front approached us, we sailed back to Tobacco cay's well protected anchorage, with a fridge full of fish, lobster and conch.

Dolphins playing on the bow.

Collection of conch... we did not keep them all, chose the biggest ones.

Another spanish mackerel catch by Joep.

Happy smiles .

Nicaraguan Flor de Cana, Venezuelan Santa Teresa 3 different Cuban rums
were compared by 4 professional rum drinkers!

When the cold front (rain ) reached us, Songerie was safely tucked behind mangroves and we all ready for a day of fish smoking and rum tasting!
(as well as water catching and doing essential laundry !)

wees net regverdig.

Anita bought along from Namibia hair high-light tint and the foils from Peet, my hairdresser back home. She then tinted my hair, for a Christmas present.

In the mean time the men collected a bucket filled with small conch for supper.

Time was running out and we set sail back to Placencia in time for New Years Eve.

Bucket full of small type conch. (different species from the big ones)

Canela can not withstand a opportunity to kiss Anita, sunbathing on the coach roof

We were all hoping for a cobia catch... the one that up till now has evaded us.

Suddenly, about 10Nm from Placencia the reel screeched like a tortured banshee. Line ripped of the spool as the hooked cobia crisscrossed behind Songerie.
Mayhem on-board Songerie!
Joep got hold of the 'koeipoepol' (afrikaans for fishing rod holder), rod and slowly reeled the fish in, Jaco ready with gaff and speargun assisted Joep, I furled in the genoa to reduce speed and Anita took care of Coco and Canela. (whose performance matched the frenzied fish on the line)
When the cobia was alongside Songerie, Jaco shot it with the speargun and they landed this exquisite beauty.
A successful team effort!

The BBQed, mouthwatering steaks served with a pepper sauce and rice, a meal fit for a king.

An essential task on-board, is keeping the anchor-rum bottle full.

Last day of 2017 has arrived. A pleasant day pub crawling, and playing this beach boules.
Just unwinding and hanging loose all day.

New Years Eve, Joep cooked a slow-chicken-Afrikaner-potjie and served it at 24h00.

pub crawling.

Christelle relaxed at Tipsy Tuna

The sail trip.

We love fresh Coco water.

Another tick on Joep's bucket lsit.. drinking coco water from the source.

They left Songerie on the 2nd of January.
The boat is quiet, everybody, including the dogs, are down and depress for at least a week.
(We had to get moving towards Honduras, but just lacked any enthusiasm)

Its been absolutely fantastic, thank you Joep and Anita!!

Anita and Joep Visit, Part One, Guatemala, December 2017

2018-07-05T20:29:00.002+01:00

At long last, they've arrived! Perfect time for a 'michelada'. (Mexican drink - beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces, spices, and peppers)

Lunch at the Artisan Market.

To get a Guatemalan feeling and impression, we strolled around city center, lunch at the huge indoor artisan market, snacks at San Martin coffee shop and then late afternoon we moved on to Antiqua.

Don't buy yet... we are still going to Panchachel!

Behind us are various types of tortillas.

5 different types of bananas to choose from!

Quick visit at San Martin coffee shop.

Relaxing and catching up on mails at Bougainvillea guest huse, Antiqua.

Waiting for the day trip to the volcano.

Antiqua Guatemala means "Old Guatemala" and was the third capital of Guatemala. It is a small city in the central highlands of Guatemala, surrounded by volcanoes.

It is famous for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture, many of them restored following a 1773 earthquake that ended Antigua’s 200-year reign as Guatemala’s colonial capital.

Texture of La Candelaria

La Candelaria Ruin. First build in 1548, after earthquakes and fires in 1717 much of it was shaken and cruimbled to its foundations.

Santa Catalina Arch build in 17 century.

La Merced church, ultra baroque Guatemalan style with two bell towers. Construction began in 1749 and was inaugurated in 1767

Beer break.

Jaco's second home!

Typical chicken buses.

La Merced church at night.

Day trip to Pacaya Volcano.

Christelle standing on the lava from 2014 eruption.

About a one hour drive from Antigua is the base of Pacaya Volcano. An active volcano in Guatemala, which first erupted approximately 23,000 years ago and has erupted at least 23 times since the Spanish invasion of Guatemala.
Pacaya rises to an elevation of 2,552 m.

Our first ever selfie!! Hopefully the last!

frying marshmallows.

Joep was thrilled that he could at least fry some marshmallows in little "ponds" of old hot lava from the 2015 eruption.

Struggling trough the sharp lava rocks.

The tour company did not make clear what we could expect to do and see on a trip.
Before our visit 2014 marked the last eruption of the Pacaya Volcano. We did not see any red lava while hiking around Pacaya. In fact, you do not climb towards the crater of the volcano itself, as it is still active. Instead, you walk up until a certain point and, afterwards, descend for a little while to a vast area where the floor is made of solidified lava.

This year (2018) after our visit it erupted again.

dirty feet.

The 4 of us climbed the volcano in flip flops, not the perfect attire for this adventure! Besides the avoiding the sharp rocks we struggled a helluva lot to get our feet clean again. The walk down in the dark with-out lights was quite rough!

Cheers!

Ponchos for the beer.

A scenic route with a mini-van-taxi took us to Panajachel on the shores of Lake Atitlan.

From here we went by water taxi to La Casa del Mundo.

The unique architectured rooms were built into the lake's cliff sides with traditional Mayan decorations, and spectacular lake views from their 100-250 feet high perches.

Our two rooms share this veranda with spectacular view of the lake.

We indulged in an evening of local rum and snacks in the hot tub on lake front.
About midday they start to fill and heat the tub on request.(Heated by a wood burning oven in the tub.)

Team attempt for one avo.

An ancient Mayan trail passes through the top of the property and heads from the village of Santa Cruz to San Marcos. We followed this narrow footpath to one of the Mayan villages surrounding the lake.

The town of Panajachel is located on the Northeast shore of Lake Atitlán, and has become a centre for the tourist trade of the area as it provides a base for visitors crossing the lake to visit other towns and villages.Boats connect Panajachel with lakeside Mayan villages.

Cafes, bars and stalls selling handicrafts and textiles (some of the best bargains in Guatemala) line Calle Santander, the town's most prominent Street.

Surrounding the lake are the San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlán volcanoes.

Early coffee at a Swedish cafe.

Early morning, after 2 days of intensive shopping, we started on a slow ride by Chicken bus to Guatemala city and from there by big bus back to Rio Dulce.

Packed bus.

Jaco's neighbour sitting in the middle where no seat is? His expression says all!

Suitcase filled with Songerie crew's requests/wish list/ and gifts.

Coco even went to bed with his gift from Nardia and Schalk.

Anita and Joep planning the Songerie way (rum in hand) their visit to Tikal.

Joep learning the art of knots.

Enjoying sundowners on the front deck.

Anita and Joep back from Tikal and ready for sailing.

Perfect sundown before we set sail or Belize.

Quick check-out at Livingston and ready to cross the sand bar.

Maintenance/hurricane season in Rio Dulce, August - December 2017

2018-07-04T14:42:00.000+01:00

Cheers, we are happy to be back on board Songerie again.

Birthday girl at the head table.

A tasty traditional soup, Sancocho, was serve,before the fun started.

Shortly after our arrival back on board Songerie, we joined a Guatemalan birthday party at Marina Gysa. From early morning all her aunts and their friends arrived to prepare for the party. The party comprises of a birthday girl dressed in a white-princesslike-satin-dress, balloons, food, cold drinks, cake and the traditional piñata.

Dad guiding the piñata with a rope, making it more difficult to be hit. Any willing body, from children to grand parents get a turn hitting the piñata.

Havoc broke loose when old and young "fight" for candy after a successful hit broke the piñata!

Elaborate sweet birthday cake.

Back on-board, Canela always keeping an eye on the cook.

Chaos in the saloon, when Jaco have to inspect the oil pan...right at the bottom of the engine.

At long last the new pan.

Our first project involved hoisting the 200 kg-plus engine to inspect the oil pan. Weighing all our options (among other things, ordering a new one for U$600 ect), Jaco decided best is to make a new oil pan in stainless steel. Back home (Africa) this is a small job, Here in Central America it involves twice, 8 to 16 hours bus drives to and from the capital organizing the argon gas tank to be filled, waiting about 3 weeks, etc, etc,

Fitting the new perfect oil pan!

Regular BBQ's with sailor friends, from all over the globe, kept us sane while struggling with boat jobs! (Varnish and paint the saloon, fixing/welding the stainless steel frame, constructing a new lazarette and repaint the cockpit)

10 man life raft

Entrance.

Our life raft (10 man-far to big for only 2 people.) has expired 6 years ago and can be dangerous being too big for only 2 pax. We decided to deploy the life raft to test it. (In future our new Caribbe dingy with grab-bag and fishing rod will be our life raft.)
It inflated very well, but due to continuous rubbing at spots, it deflated after 10 minutes.
We also found a note INSIDE saying no food included -we must take extra!

Inside.

Above is the video of the life raft. Click on play to start the video.

Swop old inflatable dingy for this big compass. (due to aging eyesight, we needed a bigger compass)
Martin and Carlien- we have something from 'Anna Laura' to always remember you!

Water lillies at Gysa

Jaco bringing the new dingy home.

We bought from SV 'Motu' their old Caribbe dingy. It is big enough to replace both Jaco's beloved walkerbay and the old inflatable dingy.

There goes Hans with our beloved walkerbay!

Songerie on anchor in front of Mar Marine.

At last, on anchor again! When most maintenance was done we moved around the Rio Dulce, exploring the different anchor spots.
One weekend we hosted Doug, a Brazilian cyclist, on-board Songerie. This included a BBQ with SV Lela and SV Sea lion... the Jazz trio of the Dulce!

A perfect get together with great friends.

How privileged can one be... great musicians (Titou and Damian) plying ONLY for us!

An unforgettable Sunday.

Ciao Doug, its been great hosting you! (Our new dingy can take 2 bicycles at once!)

Our favourite Guatemalan coffee shop, San Martin in Guatemala city.

Special breakfast for Christelle's birthday.

I chose to visit Guatemala city on my birthday, to escape the Dulce heat. Jaco treated me to an excellent breakfast, shopping at the second hand clothing shop: super Paka then dined and wined the rest of the day.

Jacques and Annette (SV Panache) invited us (and the dogs) to join them on a day-trip celebrating her birthday. After a lovely breakfast we embarked on a mini-van taxi ride to the Finca El Paraiso cascades. A cool water river traversing the Guatemalan jungle and drops 12 meter to a clear deep pool. The hot water falls temperature being perfect. Standing underneath it is to give your shoulders and back a constant hot-water massage. Above the waterfall following the trail is the source of the hot water spring.

Sailing on a rainy day...

Shake down cruise to Cayo Quemado.

When most boat work were finished, we sailed to Cayo Quemado testing all the new fittings.

Jaco crewed on a Chillian boat, for the thanksgiving regatta.

Ready for Anita and Joep's visit!

Back home, Namibia July/August 2017

2017-09-01T22:49:00.000+01:00

Mmm Picanha!! Our first stop in SP... a rodizio restaurant @ U$10 per person!

Cheers! one can not visit Brazil without enjoying a delicious Caipirinha..

14 June we started on a long journey home. From Rio Dulce by bus to Guatemala city then Thursday 15 June by plane via San Salvador, Lima and Sao Paulo for an over night stop, then to Luanda, Angola and arrived on Sunday, 17th late afternoon in Windhoek!

We had a lot of fun in Sao Paulo visiting sites recommended by our great friend Ana.

Strolling through the magnificent park in this big densely populated city!

Pic-nic in the park. (Chilean red wine disguised in a Coco water bottle.)

Selection of "jamon", cheeses and breads, with brigadeiros for desert!
(Ana it does not come close to your home-made ones)

Jaco and Joep

We kicked off in Namibia with a memorable evening with Joep and Anita, planning their December visit. An evening filled with laughter, great food and a constant flow of wine and Rum!

Next followed an everything with our old party crowd and greatest friends: Nico & Motte, Dot, Pierre & Silke and Joep & Anita.

The crazy gang!

The camp site

Springbok sirloin stuffed with smoked mussels marinated in brandy!

After a few days in Windhoek, we traveled north to Outjo, where my parents reside.The next few weeks Jaco helped to renovate/build a room for a resident assistant for my mother.

While in the north, we took a couple of short trips. We thoroughly enjoyed the scenic camp and surroundings at Oppi klippe.

A sun-downer with Deon and Lydia, owners of Oppi Klippe

On another occasion we joined my parents on a journey in the past. Together we visited Otavi, where my dad was at school in 1944, the farm Ester where he lived in those years. Next was Tsumeb the mining town where we visited his childhood house, the hotel where they met on New Years Eve 1959, the house of oom Nic where my mom stayed when they met each other, the church where they got married, and many many other sites of their past. It was a great privilege to join this journey with them!

The school building of 1944.

Oom Nic's house where my mom stayed when they met.

The church where they got married in 1960.

Jaco taking a smoke break at the Minen Hotel where my parents met in 1959.

The pirates of the Caribbean, Jaco, ala Capt'n "Jake" Sparrow and me, his first "maid" looted farm Uitsig!

(the only ones doing a big effort at a pirates fancy dress party, ... luckily the party was worth it!)

Jaco looked damn good with tinted black beard, beads, dreadlocks, hip flask, authentic knife and all!!
One kid was mesmerized by him and when Jaco proofed that the knife is not plastic, but the real thing, the boy looked at Jaco with huge eyes and whispered "so you really are Jack Sparrow ".

The 3 "Swart" sisters and husbands having an exceptional memorable evening at home with master chefs, Hentie and Doreen Champion, great friends of my parents.

Our campsite at Bloedkoppie.

View of the desert from Bloedkoppie.

Scenic drive to the Tinkas.

Next adventure was a weekend camping trip to Namib Naukluft Park with Joep and Anita.

Once again we were reminded why we love Namibia so much! You can truly be alone and feel the immensity of this wonderful country. The total silence and the wide-open spaces make an eternal impression. Here much better than any five-star accommodation, you’ll get each and every night a million stars in the heaven above you.

Water in the desert at Tinkas!

Cheers! Anita and Joep, yet another memorable weekend!

Quick stop in the desert on the way to Walvisbay.

Viewpoint of the desert.

Photo was taken last year on-board Sea Horse.

Needless to say, our next adventure was on the sea! Another lovely day on S/V "Seahorse" with Jorg, Shelly, baby Ramona and Snuffels. They are slowly getting ready to cross the Atlantic and follow in our wake next year....watch out there'll be 2 Namibian fish-smoking, beer-&-rum-drinking sailboats in the Caribbean!

What can be better than a potjie on the beach?

...Mmm one prepared by Samuel and Rochelle!

An excellent way to finish off an lovely coastal weekend!

Jaco returned to Windhoek to give a hand at his previous company, while I returned to Outjo with my parents.

The Venterjie kids giving the old men a tough time on the beach!

I left my camera at home and took these photos with my antique phone

Just before we said goodbye to the family in Outjo, we went on a day trip to Etosha National Park. Yet again we were not disappointed! Within a couple of hours visiting just 3 water holes we saw a huge male lion, 3 big groups of elephant bathing and the usual giraffes, zebra, springbok, kudu and oryx.

Jaco and Nico having a business lunch?
Cold beers at Joe's Beer house at 12h00 on a Tuesday....newly retired Nico loving every moment!

We end our Namibian visit with an evening at "Que Tapas". The gorgeous Venezuelan, Ricardo, treated our table with a constant flow of delicious "surprise" drinks to the ladies. The tapas was excellent especially the Iberian Jamon, thinly sliced at our table. The cherry on the cake at the end of the evening, was when they dimmed the lights to serve our table Caribbean rum (from Dominican Republic). First we ate a slice of orange dipped in coffee beans, then sipped the rum from cognac glasses infused by burnt cinnamon! Absolutely fantastic!!

Ricardo burning a cinnamon in a cognac glass.

This must be a sign.... we should return to our beloved Venezuela!

Sail Cuba to Bay islands and further onto Rio Dulce, Guatemala May/June 2017

2017-07-25T08:28:00.001+01:00

The kids very happy to be on anchor!

Wednesday, 17 May, before sunrise, we weighed anchor and set sail for Guanaja. Our weather forecast looked quite bad, but we were well prepared with pre-cooked meals, (lasagna, home baked bread, chocolate brownies etc.) heavy weather sailing gear within close reach, deck cleared of extra containers (all stored in mid berth) etc.
Day one we sailed with the smaller inner jib and the mainsail under 2nd or 3rd reef in 22+ knots of wind and steep 6 to 8 ft seas on the beam. By Sunset the wind decreased, but the thunderstorms and rain squalls increased. Through out the night we reefed the inner jib countless times for squalls and then shake it out afterwards.
The following day the strong wind, squalls and steep seas dissipated. We sailed under full sail a few hours until nightfall when the squalls started again... (By this time my hands were raw from reefing for countless rain squalls!)
Day three, we found ourselves once more under heavy reefed sails in 27+ knots of wind on the beam. The rain dissipated by late afternoon, but the wind increased to 30 + over night until dawn the following day.
Much relieved crew dropped anchor in Sandy-bay at noon on Saturday, before the predicted gale-force winds set in.

Jaco and "Songerie" handled all excellent, but the crew (Christelle and doggies) were not too happy...3 days of strong winds and steep seas!

During the worst seas, I put the dogs inside the saloon to keep them dry and protected, but had to laugh for each time they shook their little bodies vigorously whenever they heard the waves hitting the hull! (Throwing a wall of water over the coach-roof into the cockpit, leaving Jaco and I soaked.. )

Jaco rowing the kids to land at our favorite Manati bar.

While hoping for a small break in the furious easterlies we went on lovely daily walks at Guanaja..

Gale force wind was in the forecast for the next week or more. Not the best of time to be sailing except maybe running with the wind. (My opinion, not necessarily Jaco's!)
At first we were not in a hurry to go anywhere, but my sister asked me to come home asap, my mother is very sick. With her help we booked return flight tickets... we only had 2 weeks to get to the Rio Dulce! Guess we will be running with the wind!

Lisa Moore told us about this waterfall, thanks! the whole family loved it!

Magnificent floral paths in Guanaja.

Entering the Rio Dulce once more... never thought we will see this river so soon again!

We managed after waiting a few days, just a short sail to Calabash Bight, Roatan, and again after a few days another short sail to West End. Then the last stage was an over night stretch to Tres Puntas.

Lovely scenery along the shores of the Dulce.

Ou backyard in Cayo Quemado

I was a nervous wreck first hoping for clear skies with no more squalls, (I had my fare share of them!!) then also passing the notorious dangerous pirate spot at Punta Sol. (There have been another atack just 2 weeks previously)
Much relieved we dropped anchor just after sunset on Tuesday, 6 June at Tres Puntas. Ready to pass the sand bar early the next morning.

Little did we know what was in store for us for the night! A tremendous strong thunderstorm passed in our area with viscous lightning strikes all around us. To make matters worse, a swell started rolling in together with a uncomfortable chop picking up from across the bay. (Very weird that we had only light wind and no rain!)

The following week we spend heading up river to tie up at marina Gysa and preparing Songerie for a two month rest.

Tied up at Marina Gysa, the most friendly and welcoming marina with Gilbert and YeYe.!

Sunday BBQ at the marina.. leave it to master BBQer, Jaco

the "French invasion "...dejavous??

Cuba, Cienfuegos and back to Cayo Largo Archipelago, May 2017

2017-07-17T13:42:00.000+01:00

Sad to say goodbye to Lilly, our Cuban friend of the past 5 years.

After a quick stop in Cienfuegos for fresh supplies, rum and cigars we sadly said goodbye to this beautiful nostalgic city and our great friend Lilly. Anchoring in Cienfuegos became too expensive in the past year. We paid 12 U$ per day just for anchoring, no water, showers, wi-fi etc. We do not think we will return in the near future again.

We believe that previous socialists become super capitalists!

We bought 2 big bags of charcoal from this friendly local woman. She unlike many other Cubans charged us the local price of 2 U$ instead of the rip off "gringo" price 10-15 U$!

Jaco cycling through the nostalgic streets of colonial houses, horse carriages and workers on bicycles.

Keeping the first mate happy!

Lobster butternut soup.

At Cayo del Rosario we waited for new friends Tito and Cathy on S/V "Lela". While another cold front passed through, I cooked a delicious butternut-lobster soup.

Together with Lela, we sailed to Cayo Avalos where we anchored for one night before we sailed further west to Cayo Campos.

Mmm, this smells like a grey snapper.

Ahh! Jaco got a great size, all time favorite, mutton snapper at Cayo Avalos!

"Lela" under full sail on the way to Cayo Campos.

BBQ on the beach.

Unbelievable, when we sail west the prevailing east winds turn west....we found ourselves again beating against the wind.

At last we met up with "Ti-bag", our great French sailing friends. The next 2 weeks we sailed together with them, their buddy boat, "Lady Athena", and "Lela". (Us the only Africans among the French invasion!)
On one occasion, we all enjoyed a beach BBQ on the Monkey Island.

Here 4 Cubans are stationed to take care of the exotic monkeys. Jaco and I are not fond of this artificial breeding of the monkeys. They are not indigenous nor protected animals, here they can not find their natural food and therefor depend on the caretakers. Also they do not generate any income, only cost money.

Cathy slicing one of her delicious cakes.... please be "regverdig"!

"First MAIDS" doing the dishes.

JP slicing the big cubera snapper with Birgitte supervising..

Don't believe a word he is saying!

The French invasion, Jaco and 2 Cuban caretakers.

Tito and Cathy.

Jaco and I celebrated the day met each other (1 May 1993) with Tito and Cathy, sharing a great SA wine.

When "Lela" left for Mexico, we turned east, back to Cayo Largo.

Us on board "Lela".

and another fish!

Jaco kept the fridge full, while waiting to sail south.

We were waiting for favorable winds to sail south, hopefully Panama otherwise back to Honduras.
The weather in Cuba was starting to turn bad, strong thunderstorms passing regularly... time to sail away. (On one occasion while we were visiting S/V Motu a 40 knot squil passed us and we saw Songerie dragging anchor, towards the beach on the lea shore! Luckily we managed to save her just in time!)

Smoking fish to keep a bit longer.

Delicious horse-eye jack.

Black grouper for last BBQ before we depart to Guanaja.

Our weather-forecast guru, Chris Parker, did not see any window south to Panama in the near future and our 3rd Cuban visa was coming to an end...our only option was to sail to Honduras. With a very strong trough 50 NM east of us and heading our way in 3 days, we left Cayo Largo in not the best conditions!

Cuba, Jardin de la Reina, March/April 2017

2017-07-13T11:15:00.000+01:00

Beautiful classic sailyacht.

At Cienfuegos, sailors gave us the bad news that the Italian fly-fishing company in the Jardin de la Reina, is now chasing sailboats away. They claim it is a National Park and soon we will not be allowed to anchor there. The cherry on the cake is that we are also not allowed to SWIM, SNORKEL OR DIVE!! We have been to many marine parks like Bonaire, Gran Cayman, Belize and Bay Islands. There spearfishing or anchoring (on the reefs) are forbidden in certain areas. The Cienfuegos marina or Port captain know nothing about this new law. After a few days of stocking up fresh veggies, cigars and Cuban rum, we sailed to the Jardin.

Early morning coffee on the beach for the dogs morning run.. or should I say hunt? (Canela became a viscous hunter, disappearing for hours, hunting iguanas or anything moving.)

Jaco smoking fish and cigars.

Our fist stop was at Cayo Zaza de Fuera, with very good protection for the strong North wind the following two nights. This is still outside the park and with the diurnal effect of light wind in day time, we went spearfishing in the mornings. The reef is about 4NM from the anchorage. We went with the big boat to the submerged reef. Jaco dived while I stayed onboard drifting with Songerie until he signals to come closer. This worked very well, now I can keep an eye on Jaco and the dogs happy at the same time.

Canela came second during a hunt. We do not know what bit her, but it seemed not to bother her too much.

Delicious yellow mouth and yellow fin groupers for the bottling pot.

The man on the hunt.

S/V "Lela" took this photo on our way to our favorite Cayo Alcatracito. They running with the wind, while we were beating as close to the wind as possible.

Beach BBQ at Alcatracito, last year we were at least 4 boats now only us and one unsociable US Catamaran...

Prawn boats coming in at Cayo Cuervo.

Conch and prawn stir fry on toast for breakfast!

Chinese style prawns.

After the fly-fishers chased us away from Alcatracito, we sailed to Cayo Cuervo, which is outside the park. In previous years there were always at least 8 yachts at anchor in this bay... this year "Songerie" was the only yacht for 10 days!! Jaco and I have spend many nights alone at anchorages, but we tremendously missed our buddy boat "Nomad" with Nate and crew Ana. They were marvelous company, eager, free-diving dive mates for Jaco and perfect rum and beach party partners!!

Bucket prawns for free.

Christelle pickled a few bottles of prawns.

Jaco dived the reefs in the area a couple of times, but the water stayed too murky with little visibility.
He managed to find enough fish, conch and lobster, together with fresh prawns from the friendly boats, we "managed" to survive (like kings)!

Freash prawns, fish, lobster, conch with Spanish chorizo... mmmm Paella!

Tandoori style prawns and "roosterkoek" (Afrikaner bread cooked on a open fire)

Although we had no company, we still enjoyed a sunset beach BBQ.

I tried my best not to worry too much and ignore the absence of the dogs around my feet, while they are avidly hunting like mangrove rats!

Another perfect beach BBQ.

Passing through the very narrow Cayo Breton channel.

We always BBQ the fresh fish heads first, keeping the rest of the meat for the following day.

When all fresh produce were almost finished, we sailed back to Cienfuegos, stopping at Cayo Breton and Zaza de Fuera.

The "kids" keeping bow watch, on arrival at Cienfuegos.

We are not sure what the reason is for the lack of boats in the Jardin: was the fly fishers chasing them away, sailors vary of over crowded anchorages with the embargo lifted for US boats or the bad winds the past season? Whatever the reason, we are not sure whether we will return to the Jardin de la Reina.

One can understand that Cuba wants to preserve their sea life, but if they want to stop sailboats from spearfishing they should first stop fishermen fishing with nets. Bottom trawling results in a lot of bycatch and can damage the sea floor. A single pass along the seafloor can remove 5 to 25% of the seabed.
It is also ridiculous to forbid anchoring, cause all anchorages is on mud, or sand...no damage to any reef.

Cuba Cayo Largo, Feb/March 2017

2017-07-12T07:25:00.005+01:00

Cristal beer and internet (expensive: 3U$ / hour) at Marina Cayo Largo.

AH, best remedy for bad weather!

Late afternoon, 21 February, after a uneventful sail, we dropped anchor for one night at Cayo Hijo de los Ballenatos.
The following day while finishing off the long procedure of the checking in formalities, a cold front started to pass through. We managed to drop anchor at Playa Sirena during a short break between the rain and following strong NE wind!

Delicious cracked conch.

When the weather turned favorable, we eagerly sailed only 2NM to Ballenatos for diving.
Within the first 4 days, Jaco filled our fridge with conch, 3 huge lobsters, a hog fish for ceviche, grouper and a mutton snapper for BBQ and fish smoke on the beach.

Catch of the day.

Too big for the bucket.

Black grouper.

Christelle happy with her new big pot which can take two lobster heads at a time.

Cayo Hijo de los Ballenatos.

Hog fish and mutton snapper.

We joined a sunset-BBQ at Playa Sirena with two friendly Italian boats. Big driftwood fire, Cuban cigars, rum cocktails, lobster and fish heads (enough lobster for a small army) were on the menu.

When the Italians started dancing around the fire, we quietly sneaked back to "Songerie".

Beach BBQ with "Songerie" in the back ground.

Day at the beach, smoking fish and enjoying the dogs!

Whenever the wind turned NE and blowing 20 plus, we seeked more protection and anchored behind Playa Sirena.

Happy, sandy Coco.

Warthog-Coco!

Dogs in the shade of the dinghy.

Luxury motor-sail- cruise ships.at anchor at Bellenatos

Jaco playing with the dogs, throwing whatever we find on the beach... sticks, shoes or plastic bottles, always a big selection to be found!

We filled our days with long walks with the dogs, doing maintenance on-board "Songerie"or smoking fish on the beach.

On land we play fetch with Coco, but on-board Songerie, Coco plays fetch with us... throwing his toys off the coach roof for us to pick up!

Hog fish and yellow fin grouper.

After a few weeks at either Cayo Largo, Cayo Hijo de los Ballenatos. or Rosario, we used the light NE winds to motor-sail east to Punta del Este and further on to Cienfuesgos.

Mojitos at marina Cayo Largo.

Arriving at sunset and moon-rise at Punta del Este

Sail from Guanaja to Gran Cayman and Cuba, February 2017

2017-07-12T07:14:00.000+01:00

Hee hah! Mahi-mahi catch late afternoon on day two!

Tuesday, 14 February we left Guanaja at sunrise in very little wind. Using this to motor-sail NE to compensate for the strong NW flowing current which is pushing us to the Yucatan channel. By midday we got ample wind to fill our sails. We were hoping to make landfall in the center of the South coast of Cuba.
But pre-dawn Thursday morning the wind totally collapsed. Our choice was either 48 hours motor to Cuba or 24 hours motor to Gran Cayman where we can wait for wind to sail to Cuba. We turned right east for another slow-motor-slog to Gran Cayman.

Christelle kept the lures clean of sargassum grass and caught just after dawn a Mahi-mahi.

Early Friday morning we were checked in at Gran Cayman and nicely rolling on a free mooring.
The next 3 days we spend shopping for all those delicatessens and equipment one can't find in the rest of the west Caribbean. (eg. a 16-Quarts bottling pressure cooker for the big ones Jaco spearfish!)

Monday after we checked out with immigration and customs, (got our spearguns back from customs) we set sail for Cayo Largo.

Guanaja, Honduras Bay Islands, January 2017

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Coco kissing Jaco.

What's cooking?

Calm before the"storm"! (Norther/cold front)

Longing for our homeland, we cooked Curry served in the traditional African 3-leg pot.

Before joining the crowd at the Manatee Bar for the New Years Eve party, Jaco and I cooked a delicious "Bunny chow" (Home made buns filled with an authentic Durban Indian chicken curry.)

Colorful "Mi Casa Too"restaurant on the top of the mountain.

View of Sandy bay anchorage taken from "Mi Casa Too"

Humming birds at "Me Casa Too".

Tracie our friend on-board "Saga Sea" introduced us via Face Book to Lisa, owner and chef of "Mi Casa Too" restaurant.
She immediately invited us for a traditional family meal on the 1st of January!
With our tummies stuffed to the limit from the leg-of-pork roast and huge spread of side dishes, Lisa even send us "home"with take away cake.

We can highly recommend this stunning restaurant with excellent seafood and mouthwatering meat dishes.

"Songerie" supplied the Mutton snapper for a BBQ with "Ana Laura".

I love the dogs-rights at Manatee bar.... (SA sailor, Gus on-board "Ingrid" with his jack russel)

A few days, before the wind at last changed favorable (from NE to SE) to sail NE to Cuba, our great friends Martin and Carlien on-board "Ana Laura" arrived from the San Blas Islands. (having a nail-biting sail, passing the notoriously dangerous pirates of the Nicaragua-Honduran coast.)
After lots of rum, laughter and great meals until late nights, "Songerie" set sail for Cuba.

Roatan, Honduras bay Islands, Dec 2016 / Jan 2017

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Christelle's first attempt baking a Christmas stollen

The next few weeks we spend exploring various anchorages between Roatan and Guanaja.

We arrived at "French harbour" on the 24th of December in a heavy rain downpour.
4 Months ago, we all used the dinghy dock of "Fantasy island" marina when heading to town. Always supporting their bar on our return. Also a meeting place for fellow sailors. We needed some information, (about the area because we will be spending the next month here and is looking for a safe place to keep Songerie for the hurricane season) buy groceries and some special treats for Christmas.

Smoked Chicken and German red cabbage for Christmas.

BUT this time: while Jaco was busy tying up the dinghy and I still in the dinghy, a man came storming and yelling we are not welcome, this is a private dock and we should leave immediately!!!
We were speechless, shocked by this extremely rude person. Turned out he is the owner and chased us like criminals off the dock, saying there are NO place for dinghies in this Bay!! (some one on a dinghy like ours must have immensely pissed this man off ) Jaco in return sworn never to set foot on his marina again! In 7 years of sailing we have NEVER experienced such a ridiculously rude marina owner?! (We later learned that the dinghy dock is around the corner, why could this asshole not just tell us we are using the wrong dock?) Well he actually did us a favor, because we discovered Annie's dock, for free, much closer to town and even kept our bicycles for free in the shop over night.

We love the tranquil, friendly, safe anchorage at Jonesville bight with very friendly Trico bar and marina, rowing distance from our boat.

Sparkling wine sundowner on Christmas.

View from our boat of Turtile grass marina at Calabash bight.

A morning dinghy ride from Calabash to Jonesville.

The dogs and us enjoyed the scenic dinghy rides between the bights protected by mangroves or reefs from the open sea. These canals take one to small shops and lovey sea view bars in small fisherman villages.
We loved the friendly hospitable locals in this area.

Colourful houses on stilts.

"Longdrop"....or short drop!

"Songerie" at anchor in Calabash bight. Very well protected for strong Northers or almost any wind direction! Excellent holding.

"Songerie" anchored in the middle bay at Jonesville, also excellent protection for Northers or furious Easterlies.

One Saturday morning we cycled from Jonesville to French harbour.
The first 3 km on gravel almost killed us...our sea-legs on this rough terrain in 100% humidity was unbearable.
Between all the killer hills we appreciated the marvelous views and scenic ride.

Roatan Island and all the dive sites.

We discovered at the Hyber seafood shop: lobster -head meat priced half of lobster tail?! (This is our favorite meat on a lobster! )
Makes for another exquisite sun-downer snack to round off a month's stay at Roatan Island.

Utila, Honduras Bay Islands, December 2016

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According to the weather forecast there will be a 24h calm, perfect for heading against prevailing easterlies. We anchored one night at Tres Puntas, upped anchor before dawn, but hated the 110 NM slow, slogging by motor to Utila. Never again! (Much better to sail up to Belize, then sail down to Utila...next time!)
We love this little colourful, lively island.
After a week (and sitting out some very strong thunderstorms, up to 40 knts) the next calm came to motor sail 35 NM further east to Roatan.

Leaving the Rio Dulce, December 2016

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Love the easy way of filling all diesel tanks coming alongside.

After a fantastic Namibian interlude, we spend about one month getting ready for another sailing season.

(Won't bore you with the details!)

Last anchorage at the Rio dulce/Fronteras.

Tranquil anchorage at Cayo Quemado.

Checking the tension of the new rigging.

At last we head down the river to Cayo Quemado, where our new 170% Genoa sail and cable for rigging are awaiting us at Tom the sail-maker.
With the help of Tom, Jaco replaced "Songerie's" standing rigging .

Songerie leading the flotilla out of the river.

Filling water continers at the natural spring.

A few days ago, Tom pointed out to us a hidden pipe coming from the cliffs where we filled all water tanks with the best natural spring water.
To cross the sand bar at Livingston, we waited two nights for full moon with the highest high tide.
We anchored in a spectacular gorge covered on either side with teak, mahogany, palms and wild flowers.

Tell me I am not the CUTEST! Coco

ME TOO! Canela.

Marvelous, peaceful anchorage before we head to open seas!

Namibia, Part three, October 2016

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A lekker "braai"at Puccini with family and friends.

deliscious pork and "pofadder" slowly grilled.

Thank you Schalk and Nardia for taking care of Jaco at Puccini Guest House while Christelle visited her parents Polla and Chrija in Outjo.

Lovely sundowners on Christelle and Andre's birthdays. (Andre turning 50!)

Pa Polla 80 and mom Chrija 81

Cheers on a great time in Namibia!

Namibia, Part two, September/ October 2016

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The dead valley at Sossusvlei, Namib Desert.

Erindi- Nico's birthday

Nico, Motte, Jaco, Anita, Joep, Christelle, Nate and Ana

On the way back to Windhoek we all stayed at Erindi Lodge to celebrate old friend Nico's birthday.

We shared Nico and Motte's bungalow with a view over the very interestingly busy waterhole.

Once again we were spoiled by the great cooking of Nico and Motte.

Sesriem Camp

Going down the Spreetshoogte pass.

A must see in Namibia is the Namib Naukluft park and Sossusvlei.

After a bit of struggle to find proper tyres for the Landy (beeing in storage for on and off the last 7 years), us four sailors left for Sossusvlei.

Along the road we collected big hardwood logs for the evening cooking.

First night was at Sesriem campsite, oveflow, because we did not have a booking.

Baked a lovely "potbread"in the ground.
The German speaking South African neighbours got very nervous when we offloaded the tree trunks firewood, expecting an late noisy night!

We left early morning for Sossusvlei, to be in time for sunrise at the best spot.

Sossusvlei

The tiny black dot at the bottom is Jaco... How am I suppose to get there!

Nate being brave!

Christelle zig-zaging the long way down.

We climbed the highest dune, all the way to the top!
Nate got scared of the heights, was bum crawling in parts!

We took the very fast steep way down to the Deadvlei.

Most amazing was the roaring of the dune as you run down, seems like the whole dune is vibrating under you!

Nate and Ana.

Namib Naukluft park

Making a potjie at Aluvlei camp.

That evening we camped at Aruvlei, on the way to Walvisbay.

going for sundowners at the viewpoint at Aluvlei.

Walvisbay

Enjoying the view at Walvisbay anchorage.

In Walvisbay we stopped at the yacht club, had a nice meal at Anchors.

mmm..fresh Walvisbay oyesters.

Lovely lunch with Hendrie and Michelle also at the anchor's restaurant.

Thank you so much Nate and Ana, we had a fabulous time with you!

Namibia, part one: Damara land-safari , September 2016

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4 Caribbean Sailors in the oldest desert, the Namib desert... Jaco, Christelle, Ana and Nate.

Outjo

Nate getting tips from a master "braaier", Jaco.

About a week before our flight back home, Nate and Ana (S/V Nomad) bought flight tickets to join us in Namibia for a couple of weeks. It fell together with a week-long safari organised by Christelle's parents, Polla and Chrija accompanied by their great friends, Gys and Marlene and our friends Joep and Anita. The 4 of us met in Johannesburg, flew on to Windhoek and traveled together to Outjo. Nate and Ana drove with our friends Anita and Joep in their huge 4x4 truck. (The interior of the truck is not completely finished, but ready for a test drive.)

Nate and Ana

The Safari group meeting at Eostha bakery in Outjo.

Etosha-Safari Lodge

Joep and Anita's huge 4x4 truck.

Non-stop nibbling on delicious biltong supplied by Gys.

Sundowners.

Day one and two we camped at Etosha Safari lodge, just 3 hours drive from Outjo and close to the Okakujo gate at Etosha National Park, making it easy for a day trip to Etosha. Every evening around a big camelthorn fires, the Namibian landlubbers spoiled us with huge quantities of excellent meat supplied by Gys and "braaied" to perfection by Jaco and Joep.

Gys opening a bottle of Jagermeister, the Namibian house-wine.

Namibia is currently suffering from a drought. It is shocking to see the barren plains and farmland with hardly any grass left for grazing.

Every so often there are sand storms leaving us with sand, sand and more sand everywhere inside the tents, cars etc! It is heartbreaking to see our land, animals and farmers struggling to survive.

Oryx at the water hole.

Christelle got this picture of the playful Zebra.

Hoada-Camp

Jaco ready with a round of "handbrake rum"...

Day three and four we camped at Hoada Campsite. A big camp with the sites spread far from one another. They provide for each site a "braai"-area, toilette, hot and cold water showers and a shaded space, all incorporated with the natural rock formations.

To continue our "anchor rum" tradition, a "hand-brake rum" at the end of a hard, hot, dusty drive was much appreciated by all.

Ana got his picture of the friendly inquisitive lizard.

and a small boa constrictor snake (luislang) .

After a day trip driving around exploring the area, we refreshed in Hoada's ice cold rock pool, armed with cold Tafel lagers.

Refreshments and laughter with ice cold Tafel Lager!

The first evening Polla and Chrija served a delicious slow cooking oxtail "potjie", prepared in the traditional Afrikaner 3 leg pot.
The following evening us sailors served Brazilian caiperinhas around the fire with prawn ceviche starters followed by game steak accompanied with Ana's Brazilian black bean stew (feijoada) and Caribbean coconut rice.

Sailors choice: Game-fillet stuffed with mushrooms and smoked oysters then wrapped in sheep's lace-fat.

Tafel Lager beer break.

Nate the serious-biltong-eating-photographer!

Khowarib schlucht comunity Camp

Ongongo hot springs at Warmquelle

Khowarib Schlucht.

Day 5 and 6 we camped at Khowarib Schlucht community campsite. On the way there we stopped at Ongongo hot springs. The clear water, majestic rock formations and lavish green trees offer a splendid pic nic setting.
After the camp was set up, some of us solved the worlds problems in a well engineered man made dam in the shallow river.

For supper Joep and Anita served rohack starters followed by Joep's finger-liken-chicken in a parmasan tomato sauce.
The following day we drove through heavy 4x4 terrain to the water falls where we cooled of and "braai-ed" juicy "boerewors" for lunch.
For supper Gys and Marlene "braai-ed" a delicious lamb rib with potatoes and patats in the fire accompanied with 2 salads, followed with a big bag of quality street chocolate.

enjoying our hand made dam

View from the Khowarib camp site.

The last night of this fabulous safari we stayed at "the film huis" in luxury tents.
Anita, Joep, Nate and Ana went to the OvaHimba site and took these pictres of a traditional himba girl. (We have been there last year)

Here Duncan and Debbie spoiled us with an excellent supper to crown the marvelous trip.