Sail Along with KaijaSong

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2011-12-03T17:18:00.001-06:00

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2011-12-03T17:18:00.000-06:00

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Cartagena, Columbia, Sept – Dec 2011

2011-12-03T16:48:00.001-06:00

We returned to Cartagena with the goal in mind of having Lens Replacements Eye Surgery. We have been hearing from many of our cruising friends of the excellent medical care and results in this field here in Columbia.

Kaija always had perfect vision that is until our Atlantic crossing in ’92 where she wore a Scopolamine (motion sickness) patch. She discovered on the second day that her short term vision had been affected. It never recovered and so she has worn glasses for reading and other close up work since that time.

On the other hand, I have worn glasses since grade school. Problems with astigmatism and short sightedness have required me to either wear glasses or contacts for all of my adult life.

For both of us, wearing glasses on the boat has been a hassle. And so, we elected to remedy that situation. We were recommended to a couple of fine eye surgeons and elected to use the services of Dr. Javier Vasquez Ramirez in part because he speaks English good enough to understand our questions and answer them in a thoughtful and thorough manner.

There are two main manufacturers of multi focal Intraocular Lens. Abbot Labs of California produces the Tecnis Lens and Alcon Inc. makes the ReSTOR TORIC product.

Dr. Javier recommended the Tecnis lens for Kaija. In my case, (dealing with astigmatism) he recommended one of each. I found with my first eye (the Tecnis lens) that while my distance vision was greatly improved I was seeing ‘halos’ around bright lights at night altho I am advised that this will correct itself over time. For my second eye, the ReStoric lens provided even clearer vision without the halos and there is a ‘built-in’ corrective feature for my astigmatism.

Kaija & Dr. Javier

The procedure of the eye surgery is very simple. It requires having your eyes measured (painless), applying drops for three days prior to surgery (painless) and then the 15 minute eye surgery (painless). The entire process was painless and the results virtually immediate. The morning after surgery the bandage is removed…and VOILA…you are seeing. It is recommended to have one eye the first week and the second the next and so there is a period of adjustment for the new stereo vision to settle in. Also, it is necessary to continue with eye drops for a few days after surgery. Other than not being able to go swimming for a week following surgery, there were no other restrictions to any of our normal daily activities.

We are thrilled with the results and feel that we found an excellent surgeon and caregiver as well made a new friend in Dr. Javier and his beautiful wife Ingrid who is an excellent Dr. of Dermatology. Together, they are a very handsome couple and big warm hearts and made this whole experience one we will long remember as we carry on our journey enjoying our new improved vision.

Javier with Kaija & Ingrid

During our visit here, we had opportunity to visit some of the tourist attractions we had not previously seen including the Grande San Filipe Forte,

Forte San Filipe, Cartagena Columbia - Kaija in Insert

We spent many fun hours meandering thru the Old City with its many shops, vendors and unique sights including some very interesting architecture and door knockers.

Cartagena Old Town sites incl Famous Fat Lady and door knockers

During our visit Cartagena celebrated it’s Bi-Centenial celebrations. The marching bands and tradition costumes were a delight.

Cartagena celebrates it's Bi-Centenario

We enjoyed renewing acquaintances with old friends and making new friends here in the anchorage. We also had time to spend in the Bay of Chalon which is a beautiful anchorage approx 20 miles south of Cartagena and spent time with Rob and Carmen M/v Manatee and their beautiful home on the hillside called Crow’s-nest with a 360 degree million dollar view overlooking the ocean.

Bay of Chalon with Carmen and Rob from their Casa Crow'sNest

One of the cruiser favorites is the Wednesday night social held at the Restaurant Pacho & Gillo Pizzeria hosted by Sandro. His beautiful wife and daughter make everyone welcome and the food is great. This year they also hosted a Columbian Style American Thanksgiving turkey dinner will all the trimmings. What a Treat!

Sandro and family, Owners of Pacho and Gillos Pizzeria

While here in Cartagena we took the opportunity to have some additional renovations completed by the famous wood worker Tutti who is a magician with his chisel and saw. We also needed our transmission overhauled and were lucky enough to find Elvis, King of the Cartagena Mechanics. Both of these gentlemen were honest and quick about getting the job done. Muchos Appreciado Amigos.

Elvis the King of Mechanics and Magician Woodworker Tutti

Our final dinner at the wonderful de Oliva was with Drs Javier and Ingrid, Lauren (daughter of our good friends John and Jeri Mv Peking) and Kenny and wife Jesse Sv Makai

Ingrid with Kaija & Lauren

Jessie, Kaija & Kenny

We are leaving manyana for the San Blas where we will hook up with good friends on that side of Panama for Christmas. Then, Good Lord Willing thru the ‘ditch’ (Panama Canal) in January and finally the South Pacific…HERE WE COME!

And so as we enter the Holiday Season, to all of you, we send our Best Wishes for a Wonderful Christmas filled with Joy and Happiness and abundant time spent with those you love and a New Year filled with Good Health, Good friends and Good Times.

San Blas Islands July 31 – August 31 2011 In Loving Memory of our Beloved 'Doc' (Jan 7 2001 to July 31 2011)

2011-10-25T19:31:00.004-05:00

In Loving Memory of our Beloved 'Doc'

Bentley (Doc) Leno
(Jan 7 2001 to July 31 2011)

We knew this day would come, but knowing made it no easier and early on the morning of July 31^st our beloved ‘Doc’, lying in our arms, crossed quietly to the Rainbow Bridge.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with this expression we heard it first when someone was kind enough to send along this beautiful prose penned by Author Unknown but whose sentiments so richly struck a chord in our hearts. I am reprinting it here with the hopes that others in our position of loss may find comfort in these words

Rainbow Bridge

Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge.

When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge.

There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and play together.

There is plenty of food, water and sunshine, and our friends are warm and comfortable.

All the animals who had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor; those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by.

The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.

They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent; His eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster.

You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together....

Author unknown...

Kaija and I are so thankful to our many friends whose kind words reflect their love for our little ‘Doc’. They remind us that Doc had such a big heart seemingly filled with love for all he met and a willingness to always take part and be a part of whatever venture came our way. There is no doubt in our minds, that entering into the Cruising Lifestyle seven years ago required by far the biggest adjustment for Doc. But he was always happy on the boat and could find positions where he seemed to be totally relaxed, whether sleeping,

Doc just ‘a Chillin’

Learning to live afloat and spend as much time in the water meant learning to swim and be comfortable wearing his lifejacket. It wasn’t long before he learned to swim to and from shore, sometimes pulling the dinghy behind him.

Doc in his Lifejacket

swimming...

or just ‘keepin an eye’ on the world around him.

Doc enjoying a Sunset

It also included visiting strange new lands and always being needing to be on his best gentle behavior, whether walking thru small villages full of goats, sheep, chickens, pack dogs nipping at his heals meeting new cruising friends along the way or visiting well know tourist spots like this stop in St. Augustine Florida

Doc enjoying a Sightseeing ride in St. Augustine Florida 2005

Doc began his life with us at the age of 1 ½ years being a rescue dog from the West Vancouver SPCA. He has lived his previous life locked in a box and mistreated and in fact his name was Box. We changed his name to Bentley and called him Doc partly because it sounded close to Box and partly in honor of a Dr. friend who discovered him. He was quite a handful in the beginning, not understanding much about socializing, but that soon changed and with the help of a good trainer, he soon came to be the gentle and loving puppy we knew was always inside that tough exterior. He just needed some lovin and the confidence and assurance that he had a home and would be fed and cared for.

For those of you who have a heart for Dogs in need please visit the website www.ARFaruba.com home of our good friend Kathy of Animal Relief Foundation Aruba. Kathy arranges adoptions for the stray puppies and dogs of Aruba and after making sure they are healthy and ready for travel arranges flights out of Aruba to good homes in the USA, Canada as well as other countries by request.

It wasn’t long after we got Doc that during a morning walk we met the owner and Editor of the editor of Modern Dog magazine, Ms. Connie Wilson. She asked if we would be interested in having Doc do some ‘posing’ for a photo shoot with some strikingly beautiful models for an upcoming edition of her magazine.

It was a long day and gave me a better appreciation of a models life, basically, hurry up and wait, as cameras and lights needed constant adjusting as did the set, clothing changes, different models, and Doc took it all in stride, enjoying Pizza and all the attention he could ask for. That was truly a fun day and beginning of so many terrific adventures with ‘Doc’.

Pictures courtesy of Modern Dog Magazine Summer 2003

Over the years thousands of photos have been taken of Doc by us, tourists and tour boats passing by, and our friends and just strangers we would meet who enjoyed his unique form of meet and greet friendship. From that very first shoot, he new how to 'ham it up for the cam'.

His latest modeling can be viewed on the Tilley Endurables clothing website under the caption ‘Smart Looking Sailor’,

Doc enjoying his Tilley Hat (San Blas 2011)

here is a line of the email received from the nice folks at Tilley

…”Thanks for the photo of your dog and his Hat - it's on www.tilleyvancouver.com, in the "true Tilley tales" section, for the world to enjoy. Maybe you'll start a trend!”…

That was our little Doc, a trendsetter who made friends easily and allowed Kaija & me to meet many along the way that we might otherwise have not, both locals and cruisers alike who took a quick liking to Doc.

Doc and Friends in Belize 2005

Doc had many admirers, human and all manner of creature from the animal kingdom, and most every girl, regardless of species including human, who met him lavished him with hugs and kisses. However, during his lifetime we believe he had two real ‘heartthrob loves’. One was a dolphin named Honey resident at Josh’s Cay, Bay Islands,

Doc’s Special Friend Honey (Josh’s Cay, Bay Islands, Honduras 2009

Doc could swim for hours with Honey and one more than one occasion was known to tag along with her on her daily swim from Josh’s Cay to El Bite, a distance of some 3 miles.

The other an unnamed she goat living on Isle de Saints, Guadeloupe. And when he met this little she goat on Isle de Saints, he would sit and stare at her thru her fence and make these little soft moaning sounds. . .need I say more. He just wanted to spend time with her.

Doc and his Wee Special Goat Friend, Isle De Saints, Guadaloupe 2010

Doc liked kittens and puppies, animals young and old, big and small, pigs, goats and cows. He like chasing Bulls and being chased by them. He really enjoyed horses and dolphins. It didn’t matter their breed or size, he loved them all! Two of his most special moments that I was lucky enough to share with him were meeting a new born foal (pony) not much bigger than he was while the mother Mare skittishly watched. They came nose to nose while the little foal stood shakily on his wobbly legs and Doc just seemed to enjoy his company. This meeting took place in Luperon Dominican Republic. And one of the truly unforgettable moments Doc and I shared was during our walk thru the jungle of Panama and coming round a bend and coming face to face with a wild Black Panther. This beautiful creature stood no more than 50 paces away, Doc and I froze, Doc sat quietly, the Panther stood and stared, with it’s long black tail waving in the breeze, then turned and a quick as a blink, was gone into the undergrowth…it was a majical moment. Unfortunately, I did not have a camera with me for either of those two special events but the memory will live clearly in my mind’s eye until my dying days.

However, Doc was indeed a Rottweiler, and when he was back on the boat we was a serious guard dog, which allowed Kaija & me the comfort of the 7 years of hassle free cruising, with our companionway unlocked and our hatches open never being concerned with strangers boarding our boat while we slept. Thanks little buddy.

‘Doc’ keepin an eye

We could leave our boat to go ashore and be fairly certain that no stranger would attempt access while we were away. There were those rare occasions however, when Doc decided in his own mind that he had stood guard long enough, and that perhaps dad and mom just forgot to take him along, and he would venture out on his own, which meant ‘jumping ship’, literally, diving in the water off the boat and swimming ashore to find us. This most recently occurred in Cartagena, when Kaija & I were ashore enjoying a lovely dinner at a very fine restaurant when a fellow cruiser came in to let us know that Doc had swum ashore, in the dark, thru the shipping channel, to the dock, climbed ashore, and was sitting waiting calmly for us to return to the Yacht Club. This behavior was not always met with enthusiasm on our part, as Doc’s ‘job’ was to remain on the boat and be ‘en-guarde’, so I would take him back in the dinghy, put him back on-deck and tether him to remind him of his obligation. It was never easy to stay angry with Doc for any length of time for these minor indiscretions. He would look up at your with his big brown eyes, often with enough moistness in them to convince you he was truly sorry for disappointing you and he would try harder next time.

Doc ‘En-Guarde’

Doc was so very easy to love and always seemed to be happy. But there is no doubt in our minds that he was the happiest when he was running up and down some isolated beach, chasing and playing toss with a coconut, any coconut would do. He loved being in the water, swimming was his forte, and there was seldom a time when he couldn’t beat you in a race around the boat. He would happily don his lifejacket to join us out on the reef paddling along beside Kaija and me as we would snorkel, sometimes for hours. And when he encountered dolphins, he was in another world. He loved dolphins. He could sense them long before the rest of us could and he would make this special sound that attracted them to him.

‘Doc’ and his Dolphin buddies

But mostly, he just seemed happy to be with us, no matter what the occasion, and that was the best part of all. What a joy to share our life with him!

'Doc & Dad' on the Kayak

Doc enjoying a ride in the dingy…a favorite pastime!

Takin a break along the trail

Doc Enjoyin a swim with Mom

Lickin his lips

Waitin for a yummy treat from mom at the galley hatch

Fun on the beach with Byron & Denise s/v South of Reality, Kaija & Columbian navy friends in Albaqurque Cays, Columbia

‘Doc’ ridin the canon

Jane, Kaija & Doc Sailing San Blas

Doc with Angels Kathy & Maureen of Arf-Aruba

‘Doc’ strongly considering a big upgrade to 80’ of Real Luxury with Lani & Mads aboard M/v Dauntless in Puerto Advantura, Mexico

Doc with Wendy of Dive Aruba

Gary & Doc with friends Terry & Barb Sv Wind Whisperer and Local Guide Renaldo Garcia 5 Bays Columbia

Kaija and Doc with his ‘Tilley’

For those of you who are lucky enough to have a pet that fills your heart with such gladness as our little ‘Doc’ did for us, count your blessings for all of the days and hours you share with these little wonders of God’s creation.

Happy Times with ‘Doc’

Kaija and I continue on with our life on KaijaSong, saddened for our loss, taking comfort in the knowledge that our beloved little ‘Doc’ sails on with the angels, unfettered and pain free, and is now waiting for that day, when we will cross the Rainbow Bridge together, re-united for eternity.

“Doc” a Truly Special Friend

There is not a day goes by that we do not think about or speak of our little boy 'Doc'. He still brings us such joy at all the funny things he did to brighten our day and lighten our load.

Our good friend and Master Mola Maker, Lisa of Kuna Yala made a beautiful Mola for Doc and we treasure it as we treasure the wonderful memories we have of this kind and gentle spirit.

We are truly and richly Blessed!

Linton Panama N09,36 W79,35 April 18 - Present

2011-07-25T13:56:00.000-05:00

The good news for us after losing our company and buddy boating friends is that our good friends John and Jeri Mv Peking arrived from Cartagena.


MV Peking, John and Jeri

It was a fun reunion as we got caught up on the news in their world. Unfortunately for us, Doc’s health was failing so we decided that we needed help to regain control of his symptoms and so we headed west to Colon to meet up with our friend and Vet Dr. Sandy Sv Littlebit. She quickly reviewed the medicine protocol and made some slight adjustments that seemed to make a world of difference for Doc.


Dr Sandy, S/v Littlebit

We have been in Linton now for the past couple of months and Kaija has found a ladies group that enjoys domino’s on Thursday. There is also ping-pong and a social on Sunday’s at a local Ex-pat name Bennie. She is quite an amazing lady having foster homed three sloths, Thunder & Lightning of the two toed variety and Digger who is a three toed sloth.

"Lightning" & Bennie

Never having had the opportunity to get close and personal with a sloth it was great fun to meet these very gentle quiet mammals.

Kaija with "Digger" and Gary

They love to be held and cuddled and become quite attached to their human protectors. Thunder resides with Bennie’s housekeeper and is quite protective of her, Lightning lives in Bennie’s bedroom and has his own tree to live in there. Digger lives in the kitchen sitting by the kitchen window enjoying the beautiful vista of the Linton Bay. Bennie is a very special lady with a huge heart and giving spirit. These three sloths are very lucky to have ‘found’ her.

Kaija has been in Vancouver for the past month visiting family and Doc and I have had a wonderful time just ‘resting’ and being close. We recognize that there is no cure for Doc’s Lymphoma and each day becomes a little more of a struggle for him as he slowly loses his strength and his battle against this dread disease. I spend as much time as needed each day caring for Doc giving his meds to hand feeding and taking him for his dinghy ride to shore where he enjoys sitting in the cool shallow water and just resting. Then getting him back aboard, dried off for his next sleep and a few hours later repeat the process. He is a wonderful companion and so easy to Love and spend time with.

Doc & Gary

Upon Kaija’s return this week, we will head back out to the San Blas Islands for a few months and spend as much time as possible in Snug Harbour at “Doc” Island where he enjoys the shade of the swaying palms, the clear cool water and the soft white sand.

San Blas, Panama, Snug Harbour N 09.19.600 W 078.15.130 to Porvanir N09.33.462 W 078.57.022 Feb 27 – April 17

2011-07-25T10:57:00.004-05:00

What can we say about Snug Harbour we haven’t already said? At the risk of repeating ourselves, it is simply our favorite stop in the San Blas. Besides being isolated and providing a quiet safe anchorage it is one of the prettiest spots on earth.

We were somewhat surprised, however, to find 8 boats in ‘our’ anchorage. When last we visited we were the only boat…so much for progress. We rested up before heading to Porvanir to pick up our friends and guests Tom and Jane from Vancouver.

En-route to Porvanir we stopped at the small island of Cambobia. This was our first time here and just when we thought it was a perfect day we learned that “Murphy” was riding along with us. We had had a perfect sail from Snug Harbour and when getting ready to transit the channel into Cambobia we turned our engine on and it sounded like someone had thrown a bucket of bolts into it. We soon discovered we had smoke and sparks flying from the engine alternator and so shut down the engine and sailed into the bay. We were met by our good friends Aaron and Lyla from Sv Blow Me Away and new friends Jim and Betsy on their beautiful Mv Two By Sea. We had a fun couple of days with them while I tore off the alternator and readied it for shipping to our friend Roger in Panama City. Roger is the ex-Manager for the Panama Yacht club or should I say the former Panama Yacht club. Roger speaks excellent English and lives in Panama City and is a cruisers best friend.

En-route to Porvanir we stopped at the East Lemons and heard our friends John and Marie-Andree on the radio calling us. They were in the West Lemons, only three miles away, and had traveled all the way from Cuba to re-united with us after our first fun meeting with them a year ago. They came by dingy to see us and it was a fun reunion as we planned the next two weeks to buddy boat with them thru the islands.


John and Marie-Andre Sv Sete Mares

Finally the day we had been looking for arrived when our friends Tom and Jane flew into Porvanir. They are good friends from Vancouver and as it is with good friends it’s like you were never apart. We were looking forward to spending a couple of weeks with them getting caught up.

Tom & Jane arrive Porvanir San Blas

We immediately departed for ‘the pool’…otherwise known as Eastern Hollandaise…by either name it is a very neat place. Actually, we anchored just outside the pool in the ‘burbs’, designated so because it is just outside the ‘bar’ of the pool…you have to be there to get all the geopolitical positioning just so, but needless to say it is a fun spot on the outer islands of the San Blas just inside a beautiful stretch of reef that is home to some of the larger variety of ‘take out’ fish…angel, trigger, grouper, snapper, hogfish, shark…the list goes on and on…and it’s not too hard to invite a nice 20 pounder home for dinner…yummy.

We enjoyed a few days here and Tom and Jane used our new two person kayak…action took it on its maiden voyage around the island and had a blast.

Tom & Jane Kayaking

We were still in company with John and Marie Andree and their beautiful 65’ Cat Sete Mares.


The beautiful S/v Sete Mares (laundry day?)

We had the unexpected pleasure of hearing a little girl voice calling from a boat name ‘Guppy’ on the Radio calling for directions thru the reef and anchorage. I’m not kidding when I say it sounded like a little girl…it was a little girl. Her name is Laura Dekker, and altho her voice sounds like she is about 10 she is actually 15 and sailing single handed around the world. She is from Holland and you can read up about her travels by going to

http://www.lauradekker.nl/English/Home.html

Laura is an amazing example of what a young mind and spirit can accomplish.

Marie-Andre, Tom, Laura Dekker, Gary & Kaija

It was determined that a party was in order to celebrate this young lady’s tremendous achievement and so without much ado, a party was had. It was a great time with all the cruisers in the pool, the hottub, the burbs, and many of the surrounding anchorages within miles joining in the fun. Everyone brought a dish and we raised enough money to outfit Laura in a beautiful Mola made right there on the island.

Cruiser/Kuna Party for Laura Dekker

We left the following day for Nargana which is one of the larger Kuna village towns on the mainland. It is a good place to provision, buy diesel and gas and even has an airport. During our visit they had a festival and killed and slaughtered three big bulls to feed the crowds.


Tom & Jane, John & Marie-Andre

One of the locals named Fredrico was in charge of killing the bulls. Fredrico is also the local launderer so it wouldn’t’ take long before he was cleaned up and ready to party. However, unfortunately for Kaija he was ‘into the cups’ in his blood spattered gear and feeling somewhat amorous and took quite a shine to Kaija who wanted no part of ‘what he was offering in his blood spattered duds. However, it was all quite innocent and fun to watch his advances being rebuffed by Kaija who couldn’t get away quite fast enough.


Fredrico & Kaija

The final exciting episode happened during our departure from the Nargana anchorage. Gary was slightly distracted talking with Jane and Tom and wasn’t paying attention to his ‘track’ leading us safely out of the anchorage and all of a sudden KaijaSong came to a rather sudden stop…atop an outcropping of coral. Despite best efforts, KS was stuck and our good friends on Sete Mares very carefully nudged up close enough to catch a line and pull us off. The moral of the story is…even in safe protected waters…PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR DRIVING CAPTAIN!... so nothing damaged except the captain’s pride…OUCH!

We stopped next in the West Lemons which was one of my favorite stops. I say was, because three years ago Doc and I spent 6 weeks here, the only sailboat in the bay and had a wonderful time getting to know a local Kuna who was the island keeper and his two dogs. His name was Augusto and for those of you who have been following our blog you’ll remember he made some of the best sour dough bread I ever tasted. Along with his two dogs Kimba and Negrita, Doc and I would join Augusto each morning with a fresh carafe of hot coffee, peanut butter and strawberry preserves (Augusto’s favorite) and he would bring the bread. He spoke no English, I spoke no Kuna, but we had a great time teaching each other a few essential words. I tell this sadly now as only shortly before we arrived in the West Lemons Augusto passed away leaving his two sweet pups, Kimba and Negrita as orphans. Doc and I visited with them daily, keeping them fed and groomed and trying to spread the word amongst the other cruisers of the need to help them. We will miss Augusto but we look forward to Kimba and Negritta on our return.

Kimba & Negritta

It’s amazing how fast time flies when you are having fun and before we knew it we were saying goodbye to John and Marie-Andree and their beautiful Catamaran as they departed for Colon to provision for the Panama Canal Transit into the South Pacific and beyond. Then we were sailing back into Porvanir and dropping Tom and Jane off at the airport as they continued the adventure heading to Bocas on the west side of Panama for some surfing and Spanish lessons and into Costa Rica to a Kite Surfing camp….oh the joys of youth…well their not kids..They are high energy. We sure enjoyed having them aboard and missed them greatly when they left.

Jane & Tom Bakker

Bay of Cholon, Colombia – N10.09.684 W75.39.747 Feb 24 – Feb 25 2011

2011-06-19T13:13:00.000-05:00

We were happy to return to this small idyllic anchorage tucked safely away in the mangroves on the mainland near Baru only 20 miles south of Cartagena. This is an excellent stop for cruisers who desire to rid their hulls of the overabundance of sea life that has attached itself during a brief layover in the Cartagena Bay. We arrived here to find our friends

Mike and Lillian Sv Meikyo

Sonny and Kay of S/v Valentina

Tom and Pattie on S/v Liberty

who introduced us to Robert,

Robert is a retired boater who now lives on the hillside overlooking his Motor Vessel Manatee

which is the home of Happy Hour as well as occasionally transiting to Cartagena for an all you can carry shopping spree for the cruisers in the bay. Robert is a very friendly and knowledgeable and offers a variety of services to the boating community.

This was a pleasant and restful overnight stop in the company of great friends, old and new.

Cartagena, Colombia, N10.24.549 W75.32.527 Feb 13 – 24 2011

2011-06-19T11:46:00.000-05:00

We arrived back in Cartagena after a pleasant downwind passage, again under headsail alone. The only exciting (non event) was the passing of the River Magdalena which is reputed to be an area of some concern because of all the water detris and debris that outflows off the mainland after heavy rains. We traversed this area approx 10 miles offshore and still found ourselves in muddy murky water infested with large flotsam worthy of ‘keeping an eye’ for that elusive log that could tear away the rudder. Unfortunately we did not escape totally without some damage as our rudder apparently did take a strike with some minimum surface damage. Lucky for us it was not serious and we did not notice the damage until our arrival back in the busy bustling port of Cartagena.

Our purpose for returning to Cartagena was to provision, get our mainsail repaired, dinghy cover patched and get Doc’s next chemo treatment taken care of. So with provision completed, refueled, water tanks full, sail and dinghy repairs finished and with only Doc’s treatment to do, we discovered, that morning, to our dismay that our dingy and motor had been stolen during the night. Needless to say, we were not happy and our good friends John and Jerie on Peking came to our rescue and loaned us their dinghy to get Doc ashore. It was a couple of days before we were able to find and negotiate a replacement dingy and motor.

We did enjoy spending time and reacquainting ourselves with old friends and spending time and enjoying wonderful food at the fine eatery de Olivia as well good pizza and fellowship with fellow cruisers on Wed evening at ???? Pizzeria followed up with desert at the local ice cream boutique...mmm what a treat! One of the must see things to do while visiting Cartagena is a trip into the Old Walled City. The largest oldest and largest Cathedral stands majestically at it's center. There are miles of paved stone pathways lined with small shops and restaurants. It is a real treat to re-visit this quieter gentler side of Cartagena.

One of the fun things to do while visiting Cartagena is to take a tour to the ‘Mud Baths’. This is literally what it sounds like. It is an offshoot of a Volcano that has created this mammoth cone filled with bubbling warm liquid mud. You are greeted by a tour guide who takes you up 150 +/- steps and you are slowly immersed into the crater along with another 25 hot sweaty bodies too be totally covered in grey liquefied clay. For $3.00 you can have a massage while you soak in the mud. The experience lasts 15 minutes, the memory a lifetime. After climbing out and sliding down the long staircase you walk to the nearby lake you are stripped and scrubbed by experienced hands until you are squeaky clean…or at least mud free. Kaija highly recommends this experience.

We left Cartagena with very mixed feelings given the circumstances. The city is beautiful and the people can be warm and friendly. However, clearly the anchorage around Club Nautico is not safe and cruisers need to beware that there is no assurance of protection for your valuables unless they are securing stowed, lifted & locked to your vessel.

Five Bays – Ensenada Gayraca, Colombia – N11.19.200 W74.06.47 Feb 9 – 12, 2011

2011-06-19T11:12:00.000-05:00

After a lovely 24 hour downwind run under headsail only we arrived at Five Bays Colombia. This unique landfall is easily equated with the Norwegian Fjords in its formation. With high surrounding Santa Marta Mountains the deep water bays make for well protected anchorages. The surrounding elevations also make for interesting wind patterns as a continual series of short high gusting winds sweep down from the high hills over the water from most every direction.

We were met onshore by a local name Renaldo Garcia who has lived here his entire life. His local knowledge makes him a favorite amongst cruiser passing this way as he offers his services as a guide. He was proud to show us his boat card collection which numbered into the hundreds of which we were pleased to say we knew many and ours is now amongst his collection. We also provided him with a new Canadian flag as the one he had was in tatters. He was proud to display it along with his other collection of country flags.

Cabo de la Vela-Ensenada Huaritcheru, Colombia - N12.11.992 W072.09.228 - February 6-8 2011

2011-06-19T11:07:00.000-05:00

Just after departing Aruba about an hour and a half out, we caught our first black-fin Tuna…yum yum…and two and half hours later we landed a beautiful 4.5 lb Mahi Mahi…yum yum yum…

add to that the fact that we were under sail alone in ideal conditions and this made for a most enjoyable passage. We were buddy-boating with our friends Terry and Barb S/v Wind Whisperer and stayed in close contact throughout the 22 hour passage arriving in the mid morning in almost perfect condition.

It was with some surprise we noted when taking our sails down, that our mainsail had parted about a ¼ of the way from the top from luff to leach…needless to say this was not ideal. However it was not the end of the world and the next legs were all downwind which we could facilitate easily with headsail alone.

We found this wide open roadstead anchorage to be quite comfortable with an easterly off shore breeze altho we might not recommend this in a south or western onshore breeze. We anchored in closer to shore than the Pizzazz guide book recommends and we had good holding in 6.3 feet of water…not too deep but with inches to spare it was very good and comfortable holding. We were near the village and easy to take Doc ashore. The locals were friendly and the long sandy beaches allowed for leisurely strolling while we enjoyed watching some tourist Kite surfers do their acrobatics skimming along in the shallow waters only feet from the sandy beach.

Aruba – December 27 2010 – Feb 5 – 2011

2011-02-05T09:16:00.004-06:00

YES!! WE DO BELIEVE IN ANGELS AND MIRACLES

What can we say about Aruba…?? It is a beautiful place with beautiful people…and we’re not just talking aesthetics…we’re talking HEART!.

Our relationship with this Small Dutch Island has been greatly influenced by

our direct relationship with a few people who have been so kind and helpful during a time of challenge for us as we have been unexpectedly dealing with the health issues of our beloved puppy and boat dog companion ‘Doc’.

Doc cut his back foot on our last day in Bonaire. We’re not sure how, we just know that on our last day there returning from our visit to the beach Doc was bleeding badly. We cleaned the cut, bandaged it and sailed away to Curacao. Arriving in Curacao we determined that his cut needed stitches and so we contacted a Vet who took care of Doc’s foot with 11 stitches and some heavy duty anti-biotics. Over the next few days as we cared for his foot we noticed his appetite was waning. We thought the two issues were related and felt that given time his appetite would return. We spent a lovely Christmas in Curacao and two days later sailed for Aruba.

We looked forward to Aruba in part to meet up with our friends John and Cathy Lindstrom from Toronto who were arriving by Cruise ship on Jan 6. We had a lovely visit with them and their buddy Arnie, albeit short.

The next day we had planned on departing for Cartagena but were concerned that Doc’s appetite had still not returned. We decided to find a local Vet to determine what, if anything was the problem.

Unfortunately, that visit was not a good one. The Vet told us that Doc appeared to be suffering from the effects of Tick Fever. This despite the fact that Doc has been taking Frontline medicine his entire life for precisely this concern. It seems that Tick Fever has been quite rampant here in the ABC islands for the past few years. As explained to us, it only takes one bite and could have been anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 years ago.

Also, Doc had a large ‘mass’ in his tummy, either independent tumor or enlarged spleen. As well his lymph glands were quite swollen. This was very disturbing news and we booked an appointment for the following Monday for Ultra sound to get a better look at what was happening inside Doc’s body.

This was the first day we met a wonderful lady from Boston currently living here in Aruba. Her name is Kathy Andreottola who has as big a heart for the suffering of animals as anyone we have ever known. She originates from New England where she worked in the Telecommunications industry doing similar work to that which Kaija had for 30 years. Upon arriving here in Aruba 7 years ago she created a for non-profit organization to assist and help homeless animals in need of medical care with the hopes of nurturing them back to health and finding them good homes in which to live. The name of her organization is the ANIMAL RELIEF FOUNDATION OF ARUBA.

Kathy could see the concern on our faces as we came back into the waiting room after Doc’s diagnosis. She immediately took us into her heart and provided information and comfort to us in dealing with our concerns. She has a wonderful dog named Princess who was diagnosed with similar symptoms in the spring of 2010. She immediately offered to provide transport to us to and from the Vet’s office. This out of the kindness of her heart. We returned to the Vet’s a couple of days later for an Ultra sound which confirmed the original diagnosis and our worst fears. Kathy took us to her home to ‘relax’ and help us understand the process that we were facing based on her experience over the past months in dealing with her Princess. Altho Princess had been given only a couple of months to live, after her diagnosis, she was still wagging her tail and providing joy and comfort to Kathy. We met Princess on that day…a wonderful dog with a sweet, sweet spirit. As the week progressed for us, Doc continued losing weight, about 20 pounds over the past three weeks. We were doing our best to deal with Doc’s problem of Anemia before Dr. Desiree could operate as she had real concerns with his blood condition. Splenectomy surgery was scheduled for Friday Jan 14 (my birthday). Dr. Desiree was also concerned that the condition that was affecting the spleen was also affecting the Liver which would have been very bad news. During the surgery, it was determined that the Liver had not been seriously affected and so the spleen was removed and a sample taken to be sent to the only hospital in Aruba for a biopsy.

January 17, 2011

Doc has been recuperating, albeit slowly, and is now eating, and is able to walk about for a short time. Kathy (who manages some neighboring properties arranged for us to have the use of a small cottage/cabana to hospice Doc. It made life so much easier for all of us, especially Doc as he did not have to make it on and off the boat with his tummy sore and full of stitches. We continue to pray that his recovery will be complete but are awaiting the results of the spleen biopsy which we will have in the next day or so.

On a further note, Kathy’s beloved Princess was scheduled for surgery and we suspect she decided in her own heart that she had enough poking and prodding and last evening passed over the ‘Rainbow Bridge’ where there is no more pain or suffering for her any longer. Our heart goes out to Kathy in her hour of great loss. Kathy and her friend Maureen took Princess to ‘Baby Beach’ which is a wonderful area set aside here on the Island as a Pet Cemetery. It is truly an amazing site to see this large area filled with the testimony of so much Love for those animals that bring so much happiness and joy to our lives.

As of January 21

We received Doc’s biopsy results. They showed that he has Malignant Lymphoma. We are searching for a treatment regimen as unfortunately most pet owners faced with this diagnosis opt for euthanasia and Dr Desiree has little experience in dealing with the ongoing care needed. She is making great efforts to contact other Vet’s here and abroad to assist us in finding an appropriate ongoing care. We cannot say enough about the good things about Dr. Desiree and the Veterinary Clinic at Wayaca. Faced with the daily trauma of dealing with sick animals and caring owners, they maintain a warm friendly atmosphere and demonstrate loving care on a very personal level. We are grateful that we met Dr. Desiree.

A few more words about Kathy and the ANIMAL RELIEF FOUNDATION of ARUBA. It is a not-for-profit corporation founded and operated by concerned tourists. They raise funds and provide care for the homeless, hungry, neglected dogs and cats of Aruba. Care includes veterinary services, spay/neuter, food, shelter and placement of homeless animals in suitable home.

We have been impressed by Kathy’s huge Heart and love for these lost dogs and cats, strays that either she finds in the garbage, or abandoned, or brought to her by people who find them. We fully intend to support her and ask that anyone who reads this and can find it in their hearts to help her in her challenge and quest to help these defenseless animals do so. Your donation will make a huge difference in their lives. Go to www.ARFaruba.com today and make a donation.

Kathy carries on and currently has two small puppies (Gabe and Fenway) that are recouping from Parvo (one of the worst of Canine diseases), During one of visits to the Vets we met a young couple, Jamie and Lisa from Ohio, in Aruba for vacation, who were looking for a puppy to take home with them. They filled out the proper forms and Kathy will ship them the puppies, Gabe and Fenway to them once she is certain they are strong and healthy.

February 5, 2011

To date he has had two chemo treatments and responded amazingly well to both. He is on daily doses of Prednisone and vitamins and has us totally trained to feed him fresh cooked chicken and ham by hand while he works at putting back some weight. His energy levels are returning along with his appetite and we are so thankful to still have him with us.

Gabe and Fenway are now in Ohio and doing very well, Cathy has 5 new puppies that she is getting healthy and looking for loving homes.

We are departing Aruba today making our way to Cartagena where Doc will have his next Chemo.

We are so grateful to all of those who expressed concern and prayed with us during this very stressful time. That’s what friends are for!

One final note on Aruba. We found the folks at SEAruba Fly’n Dive (Wanda & Wade Wurm and Crew) to be most helpful to ourselves and other cruiser in allowing us to use their dinghy dock. They are located near the airport side of the anchorage and happy to take you diving. You can find them on the net at www.se-aruba.com. Thank you Wanda and Wade for your kindness.

Goodbye Aruba for now and thanks for all the good folks and Angels here.

Christmas Greetings 2010 from Our Home to Yours….

2010-12-22T12:02:00.000-06:00

May you experience the True meaning of Christmas found in the Joy of being surrounded by good friends and family and an abundance of unconditional love accompanied by good food, much laughter and a sense of sharing all that is nearest and dearest to your heart.

We send along our best wishes for a New Year filled with happiness, abundant good health and a measure of prosperity beyond your wildest dreams.

Your friends from KaijaSong

Gary, Kaija & Doc

Curacao - Lat 12.04 – W 068.51 Dec 15 –

2010-12-22T11:57:00.000-06:00

We are anchored in Spanish Waters a large safe water bay housing 4 designated anchorage areas. These are close to bus facilities that provide easy access to Willemstad (the capital) for check-in –out procedures, albeit you need to have good walking shoes as they have somehow managed to spread out the distance between customs and immigration about as far as possible without changing towns.

The colours here are brilliant and the hustle and bustle reminds you that you are in a busy trading center. The local population is made up of Dutch, Venezuelan and native islanders and it is unfortunate that our experience with them showed they are not always as gentle or friendly as one might expect. On more than one occasion we found ourselves being jostled about, whether just standing and waiting for a bus or dealing with unpleasant /impatient and often rude vendors. This was not what we expected and would not recommend a return visit.

We are waiting a weather window for our next leg to Aruba.

Bonaire - N12.09 – W 068.17 Nov 24 – Dec 15

2010-12-22T11:54:00.000-06:00

We made a dash for Bonaire missing the outer islands of the ABC’s, Los Roches and the Aves due to a family emergency requiring our immediate return to Canada. This is unfortunate as it was these outer islands that we wanted to visit. We arrived in Bonaire and put KS in the Harbour Village Marina and Kaija and Gary boarded a plane for Toronto. Doc was left in the loving care of our good friends John and Jeri on Mv Peking. The following is an excerpt of the daily updates we received from them regarding Doc’s care.

Dear G&K,

Doc and I were out in the mud flats behind us and we were stalking flamingos, Doc is a pretty good hunting dog, but I hate it when he gets feathers caught in his teeth so we let the birds off tonight.

While we were waiting for the birds to come closer I reviewed your most recent e-mail with Doc. His first question was "who are Kaija and Gary? Are they the two hard hearted pack members who denied me treats and made me wait 30 hours before I could pee"?

"Yes", I replied.

"I have heard that immigrant routine before, and I do not buy it" said Doc. "I am a Rottweiler, an immigrant from Africa. My ancestors, when they came to North America, learned that hard work diligently served provides each foreigner with the promise of success based on their own merits and not tied to some fictitious ancestry. Gary and Kaija play that "poor immigrant” line when they look for a break or sympathy. They never gave me goggles when I was swimming. Gary would sit in the dinghy and make me pull all 250 lbs of him and never once give me a snorkel tube to make the job easier. From one immigrant to another tell them to forget it."

Doc continued, “Let’s be candid. Since they took the soft gloves of formality off, I want to address the issue of "slop". Yeah, they are pretty good at giving gruel to the working staff while they regal themselves with foods from France and other exotic places. Do they come on deck at 3:00 am with even the smallest morsel for the perpetual watch I maintain? Did they even say "thanks" when I protected the boat in that den of thieves in Trinidad? Did they ever treat me in any special way when I guarded them in Isla Margarita? Never! Ungrateful aliens, they should be cast from gracious Canada, my adopted home, returned to the cold regions of Finland. There they can feast on rancid reindeer meat and rue the day they demeaned their faithful companion. I hope Kaija gets antlers to gnaw upon."

"And, while I am on the subject of respect, I do not like being called "meat head"; I did not fall in the water when we got tangled in the nets. I did not have a mast that shrunk; I did not put on the flea medicine early in the morning then tell me I can not swim. I believe there are more candidates then me for the title of "meat head" and if the crown fits, I suggest someone else wear it. After all, I am a dog and in that context am a stellar performer, if I do say so myself. What does the rest of the crew have to boast about?

The birds have gotten close now and we are about to depart. Doc looked at me and said, "You know, on the whole they were pretty good. I was very sorry they abandoned me; I am a very sentimental Rottweiler. If you run into whats their names, tell them, I can forgive a lot of their foibles if they would just put chicken pate in my dog food. However, before I assume the role of indentured servant, I want an employment contract, signing bonus and two NHL draft choices".

I told him the signing bonus would be the hard part.

John.

Needless to say, Doc was well taken care of, spoiled rotten and treated like family during his stay aboard Peking. We are grateful to John and Jeri for their loving kindness during our absence. Once again, we have found truth in the oft expressed sentiment that there is no better friend than a fellow sailor…strangers at first, but truly a friend in need becoming a friend indeed.

On our return to Bonaire we enjoyed clear water snorkeling of ‘the wall’ which is within a few feet of the shoreline. Our last day we enjoyed a fun morning in the water at Eden beach which is also one of the best beach glass finds we have located anywhere in the Caribbean.

One of the surprises of Bonaire is the flocks of Flamingos that we found located just across the road from the marina. It was fun to see them feeding in the shallows with their brilliant pink hues lit up by the evening sun.

All in all, Bonaire is a small quaint island with easy check-in and check-out procedures, friendly people and good restaurants.

Cayo Herradura N10.59 W 065.22 Nov 20 – Nov 23

2010-12-22T11:48:00.000-06:00

This small cay is located on the western end of Isla La Tortuga and is predominantly a sand bar with a small gathering of fish camps, a lighthouse and is a favorite weekend retreat for mainlanders of Venezuela. There is little here other than a safe anchorage in bad weather. The waves can roll virtually right over the island in bad weather. We enjoyed a brief stop here resting up after our adventuresome departure from Cayo Cubagua and our first episode in 6 yrs of cruising being snagged in a local fisherman’s net. The highlights of this story include Gary being pulled off the boat by the net as he attempted to cut it loose only to have it snag him and allow his safe return to the boat. Our friends on Peking were as unlucky and also got tangled in the fisherman’s net and after a couple of tedious hours of cutting away finally found freedom. We would like to think this was an accidental ‘snagging’ however with the number of pirate incidents one is never quite sure. However, as the saying goes, ‘all’s well that ends well’.

Cayo Cubagua N10.49 W064.09 Nov 17 - Nov 19

2010-12-22T11:43:00.000-06:00

Cayo Cubagua was the first European settlement in America in 1492, known as Nueva Cadiz and was known for its pearls. At the height of the pearling industry they exported 820 pounds of pearls. On Christmas day 1541 an earthquake and a tidal wave destroyed Nueva Cadiz. Today it is uninhabited safe for a small research station and a few fishing camps. In ideal weather there is good diving on a wreck of a car ferry that sunk in the late seventies. Unfortunately, this anchorage tends to be rolly as the swell comes around the western tip of Margarita and into the bay. After two days of this it was time to move on.

Margarita, Venezuala N10.57 W 063.50 Nov 10 - 2010

2010-11-16T13:48:00.008-06:00

This was our first real passage of the season and we were a little apprehensive, feeling somewhat rusty in our sailing skills and only slightly ‘aware’ of the sounds of KS as she moved thru the water. Checking periodically for any indication of thru hull leaks or rig tensions that were out of the norm all the while keeping an eye out for Pirates that are making a nasty habit out of ruining passages for so many cruisers in these Venezualan waters. Happy to report, nothing leaked, the rig was fine, and despite seeing many small boats in the dark, none approached us and the passage was made all the sweeter with a big pushing current, sometimes as much as 4 kts, but consistently 1.5 kts and a tail wind we covered the miles between Trinidad and Margarita in short order arriving just as the sun was coming up.

We had the fun of buddy boating with our new friends John and Jeri on the beautiful Mv Peking. They are from Alabama/Connecticut and great to travel with. They had their Motor Vessel ‘Peking’ made for them in China. The craftsmanship is excellent and provides a stable safe platform outfitted ‘Cadillac style’ with all the creature comforts, including an ice maker…If’n ya gotta buddy boat…select wisely… We do recommend buddy boating thru these waters for safety sake.

Thanks to Kaija’s sewing skills Doc has new chin rests strategically located for him to keep his eye on the water should his dancing dolphin buddies appear. It was not long after our departure that we were joined by a large pod of dolphins. They frolicked in our bow wave as Doc did his best impersonation of Dolphin speak and only by restraining him did we keep him from diving off the bow to join his swimming buddies.

Check in- Checkout here in Margarita is handled by Senor Juan. He has a designated dinghy dock and takes care of your procedural needs. This is not inexpensive (1600 B) and in fact is the second most expensive Check in-out next to the Bahamas. Senor Juan arranges a variety of services to meet the cruisers needs and ifn' Senor Juan can't find it...it probly can't be found.
He is also quite dog friendly and he and Doc soon became acquinted altho the 'cute' factor had to go to a local pup name Little Mermaid who arrived here by swimming to shore and just delivered a little of the cutest little puppies anywhere. There were quite adament in being fed on demand and as you can see it wasn't always momma's choice.

We were anchored in Porlamar which is the home of the local sardine fishing fleet and it is common to see many different size boats coming and going thru the anchorage plying their trade.

Juan introduced us to Pedro who is a highly intelligent and most engaging man who provided his knowledge and time to show us around the island. Our first stop in the tour was the city of Pampatar. This is where the Spanish built their major defensive fort and it remains in remarkable good condition as it is constantly being restored and maintained.

Then we traveled to La Asuncion, set in the fertile valley in the Island’s interior is the capital of Nueva Esparta state and is home to the second oldest cathedral in Central America. The architecture was typically Spanish influence built in the 2nd half of the 16th century. It is the oldest surviving colonial church in the country. It has an unusual bell tower in the back corner, a delicate renaissance portal on the façade and two more doorways on the side walls.

Next we visited Castillo de Santa Rosa, one of seven forts built on the island to protect it from Pirate attacks. It is located inland in a defensive position with 360 degree views just outside of La Asuncion and is most remembered for housing the young 16 year old heroine Luisa Caceres de Arismendi whose bravery helped influence the overthrow of the Spanish conquistadors in support of her lover Simon Bolivar the Liberator. Her image is now portrayed on the 20 Bolivar currency note.

Pedro then drove westward to the intricate mangrove channels in Laguna Grande and the beach at Playa la Restinga. To get there included a 30 minute tour onboard what could be described “lagoondolas’ (from gondola’s get it?). During the trip over we passed thru a labyrinth of mangroves…little channels with intriguing names Canal De Los Enamorados (Lovers Canal) and inspired John now known as Don Juan de Los Besos (kissing lane) to do a little ‘sparking’ with Geri and grab a kiss at every turn while Kaija was busy taking pictures of “oh look at that cute Pelican”??’ wha’s up with that?...

We had a nice lunch of local fare, fresh fish and papas frittas, on the beach and enjoyed the ocean breeze and view. We spent the rest of the afternoon touring thru a wonderful maritime museum that had an incredible shell collection as well as marine mammal life including dolphin and whale and primordial fish fossilized into stone. As well there was a terrific exhibit of the pearl diving and marine industry history of this island. Very unique and informational exhibits in a cool open setting wonderfully displayed.

All in all a full day filled with good food, great scenery, a little knowledge and worth every penny. If you get the chance, hook up with Pedro, he will insure you have a great day.

The trade winds have started again, and hurricane season is just about done.

We are preparing now to leave Margarita continuing to head west toward the ABC’s but with a few stops along the way including Tortuga, Isla De Aves, Isla Los Roches and some quiet distant shores before arriving in Bonaire.

We will update from there.

Till then,

...Enjoy the Journey.

Chacachacare Trinidad N10.40 W 061.45 Oct 27 – Nov 9 2010

2010-11-16T13:31:00.004-06:00

Chacachacare Island is located only 6 miles from the main port of Chagauramas Anchorage but a lifetime away in spirit.

You leave the hustle and bustle of the busy anchorage for the isolation and beauty of this horseshoe shaped island in between Trinidad and Venezuela that for 60 years between 1924 & 1984 was as a leper colony served by a nunnery and onsite Doctor’s residence. Spread throughout the large bay, is the main house of the Mother Superior, the nunnery and Chancellery located strategically on the south side of the bay where the breeze was constant, the men’s and women’s facilities were separated and on the north side of the bay along with the Dr’s residence. It is completely vacated now and great fun in a spooky sort of way to explore this large facility where so much history lay.

There is also a lighthouse on this island that makes for a great 3 ½ mile hike up a well maintained road rewarded by a welcoming lighthouse keeper, a shady spot to relax and terrific scenic views of the north coast of Trinidad and the north and east shoreline of Venezuela just across the ‘Dragon’s Mouth’ cut.

The bay offers a variety of anchorages and the shore gunk holing is a rewarding experience for those that enjoy searching for that elusive beach glass. All in all we found this spot a great place to unwind after 4 months on the hard and all the stress of being in the yard. A wonderful respite with calm clear water for swimming and a friendly turtle swimming by. We were fortunate to spend time with new friends John and Geri and their lovely Motor Yacht Peking. So much of this journey is about the people we meet and once again we are enjoying the company of strangers who are fast becoming great friends.

Power Boats Mutual Facilities, Chagauramas Trinidad N10.40 W61.37 July 1 to Oct 30 2010

2010-10-21T12:44:00.004-05:00

It is hard to go back…it’s a saying I’ve heard often…but it is our experience. Expectations can be high based on you only remember the best of your experience. We began this adventure in this very boatyard and so it will always be the starting point.

We are certainly enjoying being re-united with friends we met here six years ago. As well, the main yard staff remains and with fellows like Brent and Rico running things, you can be assured that your work will get done and you will be looked after. However, we have been 4 months on the hard and can only at best give mixed reviews to the work that has been done during this refit.

The price of most things is thru the roof, and despite the fact that work is slow, the prevailing attitude seems to be, ‘we’ll charge this guy enough to make up for all the ones that got away”. It is always a difficult time having the boat on the hard. The boat is not happy and we look forward to ‘splashing’ this coming week.

Part of visiting Chagauramas is getting to know Jessie James and his Maxi Taxi Service. He is a local Trinidadian and he offers a wide variety of services including weekly hikes, grocery shopping for the gals and a variety of Island tours. One of the highlights of our visit this time was our outing with Jessie to the beach to watch the leatherback turtles come to nest.

I will say despite the ‘schlep’ to get there, and waiting for nature to take its course, we felt it was one of the most incredible experiences of our lifetimes. To hold the newborn hatchlings and feel the strength in their tiny flippers, single minded purpose of getting to the water, and then to be there when a 700 lb turtle digs her nest, hole in the sand, above the high tide mark, dragging her huge bulk thru the shifting sand is a feat that tires you just to watch, but then to see her slowly and with such purpose, dig her nest, to her exacting specifications, with just the correct amount of moisture and temperature to accept the more than 100 eggs she will drop. During the time when she is actually laying her eggs, she becomes quite trancelike, and it is possible to touch her leatherback skin, which on her head resembles the consistency of a helmet, but only inches away, on her neck she is as soft as velvet.

This is definitely as close as I will probably ever get to 750 lbs of reptile giving birth…a truly magical moment and one not be missed if given the opportunity.

Kaija, on the other hand, likes to hike and had the opportunity to go with Jessie and a group of sailors to Rincon Falls. There guide was a gentleman from the military who teaches wilderness survival and is known as Snake Man. The hike was on the north shore of Trinidad , thru the jungle to a beautiful water fall so big that it did not fit in one picture. The trail was slippery in spots due to the shale under the light under growth cover. We saw many tropical flowers, coconuts, plants that could be eaten if you were lost, and plants and rocks that were used for cleansing the face and adding that wonderful red to your cheeks.

The Hike was about three hours up, on skinny paths, up hills, down hills (holding ropes to get there), and ended at the falls with its swimming pool at its base. We swam and ate lunch here and then back we went. Our guide found us “donkey eyes” also known as “hamburger beans” to most of us. They do not grow on a tree but on a vine. So now I know where they come from. He also found us a false coral snake and showed us how he got his name.

This great all day trip ended at Maracas Beach eating Shark N’ Bake at Richard’s. This is a Trini special of a shark burger with many toppings.

Our plan as we enter year 7 is to sail west thru the Venezuelan coastal islands and on to the ABC’s for Christmas.

Keep looking for our updates as we can make them available. Six years has shown us a wonderful world and we are as excited about seeing all of it as we enter our 7th season sailing along the North Coast of South America, Venezuala, ABC's, Cartagena, San Blas & Panama …so please come along and join the fun….who knows…maybe the Best is yet to come. We look forward to hearing from you.

Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau, Tyrell Bay Carricou, Prickly Bay Grenada June 17 – June 30

2010-10-21T12:39:00.000-05:00

We spent the next couple of weeks with a couple of easy day hops. Salt Whistle Bay is a nice anchorage with a beautiful beach along the NE side.

Tyrell Bay is a busy anchorage offering a few mooring balls, There is a pizza place on shore that I cannot recommend but they do offer wifi.

Prickly Bay has changed tremendously since our last visit in 2004. Spice Island Marina has enlarged big time and there are many facilities and good shopping nearby. We give high marks to the Customs and check-in procedures; they were as nice and friendly as any we have experienced in the Carib.

We left Prickly Bay for an overnighter along with our friends on Djarrka, Sanctuary, and Discover to where it all began for us 6 years ago, Chagauramas, Trinidad here we come.

Admiralty Bay, Bequia N 13.00 W 01.14 June 13 – June 16

2010-10-21T12:36:00.002-05:00

We had planned to stop in Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent which is where we purchased KaijaSong. However, after a beautiful day of sailing down the Island coast we approached Blue Lagoon as the winds were picking up and saw that it was ‘chocker full’…with hardly enough room to squeeze in anywhere and more boats looking abandoned than we cared to anchor near. So with Bequai in site and enough daylight to make it, we sailed on and arrived back in Admiralty Bay, the home of the great Canadian Pizza.

We have lots of good memories of Bequai and so we were destined to add a few that maybe weren’t so good. Our dear and beloved Windlass decided to pack it in. Of course they don’t talk to you to tell you what the problem is, so you just start pulling things apart, (along with pulling your hair out) as you try to determine, electrical, mechanical or misc elements to your dilemma. Finally after a lot of grunting and sweating, I determined that I should not be getting gas exhaust out of the back of my electric motor….but that’s what happens when the seal between the motor and the gearbox fails…another lesson learned, but not soon enough as this windlass is now history…we will limp to Trini for repairs or maybe even a NEW windlass…along with a long long list of other things needing to be repaired or replaced. I can feel the chequebook wining already.

Marigot Bay, St. Lucia N 13.58 W 61.01 June 11 – 13

2010-10-21T12:32:00.000-05:00

It is a blast returning to many of these small inlets on islands so many never get to visit or see. This is the place during our first year heading north that we stopped and met Bushman and his wife with their new baby. Bushman purchased our first old hard dinghy when he was trying to do business from his half sunken hull. Well, he has prospered, and now is running 25 ft Pirogue running cartage from his little spot in Marigot Bay to places all over the island. He and his wife have also had their second child. It was great to get reacquainted and we were reminded of their call to us ‘You have friends in Marigot Bay’ as we weighed anchor and sailed away.

La Marin, Martinique N 14.28 W60.52 June 1 – 11 2010

2010-10-21T12:30:00.002-05:00

This is great spot for Yachties with any kind of needs including a floating drydock in the anchorage capable of lifting larger catamarans. It was quite something to watch. There is excellent shopping for the ladies, very expensive and some inexpensive French wines and virtually any kind of mechanical service required. It is also the home of one of the best Raymarine Technicians I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with. His name is Jacques (the Genius). If he can’t fix it…it can’t be fixed…He is good, but you will have to put up with his French humour which can be somewhat brutal to the initiated…be ready to laugh at yourself cause he can make you feel a little ‘stupid’….in a nice kind of way :o) Jacques is located directly above Customs.

This island has a rich history and the architecture is old world. The people are friendly and the scenery is island idyllic. Doc enjoyed his daily swims to shore and back, then he dons his Tilley and hangs out on his boarding ladder. It’s all good!

Deshaies – Ilse de Saints, Guadeloupe N15.52 W061.35 May 25 – June 1 2010

2010-10-21T12:26:00.001-05:00

Deshaies is located on the NW corner of the Guadeloupe Butterfly. It is a quaint old fishing village and a reasonable quiet anchorage. It is however, a stopover for those coming and going from Guadeloupe. We found the anchorage got quite busy in the early evening with boats vying for too little space and some not giving enough swing room to those around them. This was our experience when we were awakening in the wee hours with all hands running on deck (it became night of the naked man) as we stood toe to toe fending off each other’s vessels (lesson here is sleep in your shorts). We were lucky and the offending steel boat was very apologetic and we were able to laugh about it…not always the case. We waited till dawn to rush ashore to the renowned bakery, only to discover to our chagrin, it had closed…with nothing to keep us there, we weighed anchor and headed for the Saints.

After a lovely day of sailing we arrived at this beautiful spot which is another revisit for us. We are familiar with this little Island group and really enjoy the laid back attitude and rustic setting populated by the Island French and all their wonderful bakery delights.

The only drawback on this return visit was the so called progress…which meant a lot more people, and a lot more ferry traffic. The Saint’s however, still retain the unique island charm with friendly vendors and bakery owners selling their wares with amidst a cacophony of smells that warms the tummy and smiles that warm the heart.

Even Doc found a new girlfriend. Now it is probly fair to say that he does have a ‘girl’ in every port, but on this occasion it turned out to be Lyla the Goat….uhuh…you read right…he would sit patiently by the fenced yard and wait until she came nose to nose…perhaps they were doing the Vulcan mind meld…but it sure was cute.

We learned something the hard way here, and that is the enough water splashed back into your ship’s exhaust system from large ferry wake will stop your boat dead in the water…this unfortunate incident became our experience, and lucky for us, we found an angel in the form of David of Sv Guardian Spirit along with wife Elaine, were there at the rescue, David being a former diesel motor engineer and faster than I can write this, he had the injectors removed and the water sea water pumped out and the engine started….Thanks David and Elaine.

One of the treats here a local baker named Michele who came out to the anchorage each morning with croissants, Pain au Chocolat and fresh banquettes hot from the oven…a person could get fat here (or should I say, fatter).

Fox’s Bay, Montserrat N16.43 W 062.14 May 24 - 25

2010-10-21T12:08:00.000-05:00

This was not a planned stop as it is unusual for the winds to blow in ever present ash north away from the anchorage. We were the only boat in the anchorage which required a stern anchor to minimize the roll. We walked along ½ mile moon shaped beach covered in volcanic ash, sand and natural pumice. All of the many homes located throughout the adjoining hillsides were vacant, beautiful big villas completely empty….like stepping into another time…but the Volcano is still active and as we sailed along the west coast the old capital is only partially visible under the volcanic ash and ruins.