SAMANTHA ON STYLE - Samantha Sault on Fashion and Style - DC Fashion Blog

Washington Life: Hong Kong Fashion Week Trend Report

2012-02-06T13:31:00.001-05:00

As you know, in January, I attended Hong Kong Fashion Week, a trade show featuring thousands of fashion and accessories brands, and the corresponding Hong Kong World Boutique, featuring high-end international fashion designers. These Hong Kong events are different from other world fashion weeks in that they feature designers from literally dozens of countries. Hong Kong, Mainland China, and other Asian countries like Taiwan and India are well-represented, but you'll also find designers and brands from as far away as the United Kingdom, Italy, France, Turkey, and the United States, to name a few.

Shanghai designer Qi Gang (center) with his models at the Hong Kong Fashion Extravaganza
However, if there's one thing that the fashions from Hong Kong have in common, it's that they're some of the most cutting-edge fashions in the world. From ballgowns with bodysuits to neon paillettes to more studded leather than a biker bar, Hong Kong is full of fashion-forward, and even unusual, looks. I discussed these trends--and some Hong Kong shopping tips--in a piece for Washington Life, which you can read here.

Greetings from the Air China Lounge

2012-01-14T04:38:00.002-05:00

I missed the opportunity to write a New Year's post, but I won't wax poetic about resolutions or promises to write more. Instead, I'll wish you a Happy (early) Chinese New Year from the Beijing airport, where I await my flight to Hong Kong for Fashion Week and other adventures.

I'm surviving on Harper's Bazaar China and Cosmopolitan China, plus a delicious canned Nescafe to keep me perky.
Over the next week, I'll be exploring Hong Kong's growing fashion industry and its place in the global fashion scene--as well as its place in Hong Kong, the premier luxury shopping destination in Asia, and perhaps soon the world.

People visit Hong Kong from across the globe--and especially from Mainland China--to shop in the ornate flagships of the leading American, Italian, and French luxury brands. In fact, this year, preeminent brands like Prada and Coach listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, and other brands are expected to follow suit to cement their place in the Asian market. I'm not just talking about fashion, either. Hong Kong is the destination for luxury apparel, handbags, eyewear, watches, art, and even wine.

At the same time, Hong Kong has its own independent designers, boutiques, and a massive Fashion Week featuring an exhibition of both fast fashion and couture. The majority of these designers aren't well known outside of Asia, but given the steep competition, I suspect that a designer who can do well in Hong Kong can do well elsewhere, too. I'm eager to see what I'll discover.

And, if I happen to hop over to Macao for a day trip, I'll certainly let you know about any sightings of the elusive Kim Jong-un.

A Purple Partnership

2011-10-14T17:20:00.003-04:00

Last night, the Obamas hosted a state dinner in honor of South Korean President Lee Myung-bak and First Lady Kim Yoon-ok. It was certainly a day for the history books for both the United States and South Korea, as Congress passed the long-awaited Free Trade Agreement between the two countries the day prior. Of course, we knew First Lady Michelle Obama would wear something fabulous, and we knew it would be scrutinized.

From a fashion perspective, her Doo.Ri dress was frankly boring. It's a one-shoulder draped gown, which we've seen on Mrs. Obama many times and, honestly, in every dress shop for a few years now. The rich jewel tone is on-trend for fall, though it was taken from the Doo.Ri Spring 2012 collection just shown in New York in September.

Michelle Obama in Doo.Ri at the State Dinner honoring South Korea
Via Getty Images
The style does suit her well--but perhaps a little too well.

Michelle Obama in Peter Soronen at the State Dinner honoring Mexico in May 2011
Via Getty Images
From a political perspective, however, the gown was the perfect choice. It was designed by Korean-American designer Doo.Ri Chung, who is known for her flattering signature draping and minimalist tailoring. It's wonderful that Mrs. Obama is supporting a rising-star American designer, and importantly, a Korean-American designer. Earlier this year at the China State Dinner, Mrs. Obama was criticized for her seemingly random choice of an Alexander McQueen gown. This time, however, she played it safe with a conservative homage to the new partnership between Korea and the United States. After all, this partnership will have a huge impact on the products we trade, including fashion.

The Weekly Standard: Pants on Fire

2011-10-13T12:38:00.001-04:00

As you know, I was in London last month for Fashion Week. Before my arrival, I was curious about how the economic and political situation in London would affect Fashion Week. Would the recent violent riots, the skyrocketing unemployment, and general malaise with the government and economy make for a dour event? I discuss this in my new story for The Weekly Standard, which can be found online here and in this week's print edition of the magazine. An excerpt:

The mood at Fashion Week last February was festive, in advance of the royal wedding—and the industry still has reasons to celebrate. Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, is becoming a global style icon after getting married in a gown designed by Sarah Burton for the Alexander McQueen label. And London recently defeated New York, Milan, and Paris to be named “Top Global Fashion Capital” by the Global Language Monitor.

But could the city defeat the dour political and economic mood and put on a successful Fashion Week?

It took place, as planned, last month, and like previous Fashion Weeks, the clothing was luxurious and the parties were stocked with champagne. But it was apparent that many in the industry have been touched by the political and economic situation—and are working to show that the industry does more for London than make it look pretty.

Click here to read the whole thing--which includes a glimpse at Vivienne Westwood's latest collection, London's growing "ethical fashion" scene, and a very fabulous Fendi party on Sloane Street.

Washington Life: Brit Business Attire

2011-09-25T12:11:00.000-04:00

Although it's incredible to see the British greats like Vivienne Westwood and Burberry, one of my favorite parts about London Fashion Week is discovering new and less well-known designers, as the city is a fertile ground of design innovation. Some of these designers are just outrageous, but some truly understand fit and elegance. For Washington Life, I profiled three relatively new brands to watch: Peridot London, Liz Black, and Muscat Vielma. I love these brands' beautiful fabrics and structured aesthetics, and I won't be surprised if they make names for themselves at Harrods or Harvey Nichols. Click here to read the whole thing.

Washington Life: London Calling

2011-09-20T18:58:00.001-04:00

As you know, I've been at London Fashion Week, and my first piece of coverage was just published by Washington Life, the city's top luxury lifestyle magazine. On my first day in London, I noticed a clear trend of bright pops of color, making the fashion seem more like pop art than your typical runway show. In this piece, I take a look at the colors in the Spring/Summer 2012 collections of Sass & Bide, Orla Kiely, and Christopher Raeburn. Click here to read the whole thing.

Burberry Spring/Summer 2012

2011-09-18T13:49:00.000-04:00

Greetings from London! I hope you've been following me on Twitter, and soon I'll have some coverage posted here and on some other sites. In the meantime, make sure you check back on Monday at 11:00 AM EST (4:00 PM London) for a live-stream of the Burberry show, which I'll be attending. I just popped in the Burberry Brit shop in Covent Garden, and the clothing is just beautiful with a posh British aesthetic, so I'm excited to see what Burberry has in store for spring.

Check back here tomorrow!

#BURBERRY

The Style Primary: Bachmann vs. Palin

2011-09-15T00:59:00.001-04:00

We won't know for a long time who will win the 2012 Republican primary or presidential election, but regardless of the outcome of the 2012 presidential election, U.S. Rep. Michele Bachmann (R-MN) and former Alaska governor and 2008 Republican vice presidential candidate Sarah Palin will undoubtedly have an enormous influence on it. These two interesting women have already shown they are willing to break the mold, both in politics and in fashion.

So, who wins the style race?

In today's Washington Times, I examine this very question by pitting Michele Bachmann and Sarah Palin head-to-head in categories including "The Spotlight," "The Campaign Trail," "Formal Attire," "Shoes!," and "Signature Style." An excerpt:

If they’re like any other women in the public eye, they thought, at least for one second while brushing their teeth in the morning, about the image being projected by their appearance. We’ll never know if the sartorial choices of Mrs. Bachmann and Mrs. Palin are coincidence or part of a carefully calculated branding strategy, but either way, these choices give us insight into how these women view themselves and, perhaps, how they want voters to view them, too.

I hope you'll check it out online here or in the print edition of the paper!

P.S. I'm en route to London Fashion Week and I have more exciting adventures coming, so I hope you'll stay tuned!

Paul Smith's Quintessentially British Collection

2011-09-08T15:00:00.004-04:00

In exactly one week, I'll be en route to London Fashion Week, but in order to pack, I'll have to first switch my closet from summer to fall. Last September, I had to layer every piece of clothing I brought on my trip plus spend way too much money on tights to save my legs from the British chill, and I plan to be prepared this time around. I've started my closet project, due to the odd weather in Washington, but it's not quite complete. Nonetheless, I already know that, instead of planning complicated outfits with a variety of handbags, jewelry, and shoes, I'm going to create a simple, signature look to carry me through the week.

I'm modeling that "uniform," if you will, after a collection I saw in London last season: Paul Smith. I'm not particularly preppy, but Paul Smith's modern prep-school looks spoke to me for both their simple chicness and wearable Britishness. The famous designer and tastemaker got his start in menswear, and his attention to cut and fit is evident in his womenswear, too. This year in my suitcase, I'll have tailored button-down shirts and blazers, slim-cut pants, boots, and a splash of cobalt blue or orange. (I'll bring a coat, of course, but a new statement coat is on my Oxford Street shopping list.)

Paul Smith Fall 2011

Paul Smith Fall 2011

Paul Smith Fall 2011

Paul Smith Fall 2011
As a reporter, I hate to gush--but the only thing better than seeing gorgeous clothing is seeing gorgeous clothing from a quintessential London Fashion Week show at the Savoy Hotel just off Trafalgar Square. I have butterflies thinking about my upcoming trip. And, I have a better camera this year, too.

Sir Paul Smith takes a bow.

The runway photos are my own.

A Day, A Decade

2011-09-07T20:40:00.008-04:00

I was sleepy, disheveled with my polo shirt un-tucked from my rolled-up uniform skirt, likely finishing the remnants of a bagel and English homework. In fact, I know I hadn't finished my homework, because I had spent the prior evening, September 10, practicing for my audition for the fall musical at the boys' high school. I felt like my world would end if I didn't get the role. Shortly after the morning prayer at my Catholic school just outside of D.C., my favorite English teacher--who encouraged my writing with my paper on The Odyssey--knocked on the classroom door and pulled my teacher out of class with important news. We were happy to have a few more minutes to review our reading in the event of a pop quiz. But, there wouldn't be a pop quiz. There wouldn't be an audition for another week, either, and the following afternoons would be spent gaping at the television.

I don't want to be frivolous, but everything changed on September 11, 2001--including the fashion industry, as Eric Wilson writes in a poignant piece in the New York Times. September 11, as usual, fell during New York Fashion Week, but the rest of the events were canceled. However, Carolina Herrera, Vogue, and Style.com joined forces to put together a quiet and tasteful fashion show featuring eleven up-and-coming designers who had invested literally everything into one September week.

I don't think I was aware of Fashion Week then, as "fashion" in my world consisted of the newest Abercrombie & Fitch slogan tee at dance rehearsal or a glittery top for a dance at the boys' school. It turns out, however, that some of my favorite designers might not have had a chance if not for that small fashion show, titled "An American View."

Maria Cornejo, designer of Zero + Maria Cornejo, was scheduled to hold her first runway show on the morning of September 11. She has an important place in my fashion journalism career, since I interviewed her in February 2009 for one of my Fashion Week articles (here and here). She has since become one of the country's most innovative designers with her eye for geometry--and one of First Lady Michelle Obama's favorite designers, too.

Zero + Maria Cornejo Fall 2011
via Style.com
Rebecca Taylor was likewise scheduled to hold her runway show on the morning of September 11. She was already at the tents at Bryant Park when Fashion Week was shut down, she told Wilson. She's now one of the most popular contemporary designers, and I have more than a few of her feminine but fashion-forward pieces in my closet. According to her press rep, Rebecca Taylor's Spring 2012 look is "contemporary, fresh, and ethereal"--and in my opinion, reflects a fresh decade.

Rebecca Taylor Spring 2012 Sketch
via Rebecca Taylor
You could argue that a fashion show was frivolous in the days following September 11. As Ms. Cornejo said, however, the fashion show as "a way to unify people and work together." Indeed, it was also a way to prove that Americans would not shut down.

Ted Baker for All Seasons

2011-08-30T00:25:00.000-04:00

While at MAGIC in Las Vegas, I visited the PROJECT exhibition at Mandalay Bay, showcasing the best and brightest in contemporary fashion. With hundreds of exhibitors, PROJECT is truly massive--and a tad overwhelming, especially when you're in high heels and have one hour to explore. After wandering aimlessly through a few aisles and being kicked out of a few booths since I wasn't a buyer--I won't name names--I decided I needed a plan. I bee-lined for one of my favorite brands: Ted Baker London. Ted Baker is not only one of my favorite chain fashion brands, but is also difficult to find in the United States, so I was thrilled to be able to view the lines for both fall and next spring.

In case you aren't familiar with the brand, Ted Baker opened his first store in Glasgow in the 1980s, specializing in tailored shirts. By 1990, he had opened shops throughout the United Kingdom, and the brand took off. I discovered the brand during London Fashion Week last September while shopping in Covent Garden, and some of my favorite pieces in my wardrobe are Ted Baker's slim, British-cut clothing at reasonable "mall store" prices. (Admittedly, I get a bit of sticker shock when I return to the United States and see the credit card exchange fees, but the clothing is still worth it.)

Although Ted Baker leans more conservative in styling, the brand has yet to open a store in Washington, so I was excited to take a look at the current and upcoming collections. As someone who loves both color and slim cuts, I was not disappointed.

For Spring 2012, Ted Baker will have you ready for a royal garden party with watercolor florals, ladylike satchels, and prim dresses and coats for a princess. I don't typically like this look, but Ted Baker adds edgy details like uneven hemlines and prominent gold zippers to create contrast. I'm particularly excited about the white silk shirtdress with black lace and an uneven hem, as well as the off-white spring coat.

Ted Baker Spring 2012
For Fall 2011--in stores now, as I discovered at the Ted Baker shop in Caesar's Palace--you'll find Ted Baker's signature tailored pieces in this season's jewel-tone hues. I picked up an ultra-slim sheath dress with mesh cutouts in vibrant royal blue, as well as an accordion-pleat blouse in an abstract "carousel" print.

Ted Baker Lesha Panel Detail Dress, $220

Ted Baker Denisa Printed Pleat Detail Top, $180
I won't be surprised if I do more damage in London, either, like with this perfect colorblocked handbag.

Pick Your Decade for Fall 2012

2011-08-28T23:30:00.000-04:00

Last week, I was in Las Vegas for MAGIC, the largest trade show for apparel, accessories, and footwear in the United States, held biannually in February and August. I spent the majority of my time in the SOURCING at MAGIC section in the Las Vegas Convention Center, where officials from the U.S. Department of Commerce, the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative, and U.S. Customs & Border Protection were promoting sourcing in the Western Hemisphere in conjunction with a number of textile and apparel associations based in the Americas.

Every day in the sourcing hall, I would walk by the colorful Fashion Snoops booth, highlighting the forecasted trends for Fall 2012-2013. Yes, you read that correctly. Although we're just now deciding what to purchase for the Fall 2011-2012 season, buyers are already looking ahead to the following fall, because they need to make their purchases now.

When I finally found a minute to visit the booth, I was interested to see that some of the trends for next fall are ideas I've already seen percolating this fall. Indeed, the term "trend" is often used far too loosely when discussing fashion, as it takes about five years for a "fad" to truly become a "trend." For example, if you're particularly fashion-forward, you probably tried the leopard-print fad last year or the year before, but this season, it's now trickled down to the mid-priced lines and mall stores to be a bona-fide trend.

And next fall, everything old is new again, as key looks from the twentieth century are making a comeback. You can pick your decade: sleek 40s "Film Noir," kicky 60s "Mod Prep," earthy 70s "Wilderness," or 80s "Culture Club." Though the dark colors and ladylike metallics of the 40s film noir look would be the most easy to incorporate into my wardrobe, I found the 60s "Mod Prep" look most appealing. I'm no prepster, but I was viscerally drawn to the bright colors, British sensibility, and Warholian imagery. I want to wear it. I want to decorate my apartment like it. And, the colors look good enough to eat.

Mod Prep for Fall 2012

Mod Prep Mood Board

Bohemian Tapestry for Fall 2012

Wilderness for Fall 2012

Culture Club (Mod Prep) for Fall 2012
When I'm making my fall purchases this year, I'll think about what has longevity to remain "in" next year and beyond--especially if it's fuchsia.

The Prints and Princess

2011-07-31T11:00:00.001-04:00

I have a thing for prints, and apparently, so does style idol of the moment, Duchess Catherine. Whether a large print or small print, geometric or mottled floral, abstract or animal skin, I'm drawn to them--and the more colorful or unique, the better. In fact, I've lately been forcing myself to buy black dresses and more subdued staples rather than my usual kaleidoscopic Diane von Furstenbergs and BCBGs. However, this season, prints are indeed a staple--if done correctly. And Washington, if you got your print at Vineyard Vines, you're probably not doing prints correctly.

Duchess Catherine in Jenny Packham
According to NYT's Suzy Menkes, the "explosion of surface decoration" found on the racks this season can work well in the modern wardrobe, especially with digital techniques transforming the literal print into an abstract work of art. She says to follow in the footsteps of Catherine Middleton, and keep your prints "short, sharp, and succinct." I agree--but I'd add "abstract" to the list. You want to go for the fuzzy not-quite florals, meaningless lines, and hints of animal print in an unnatural color. Likewise, you want to avoid the literal Lily Pulitzer flowers and crawling critters.

Washingtonians love their prints, but according to these rules, are doing them all wrong with their lobsters and pink-and-green florals. Abstract prints, like the ones below, can be standout staples--and you won't be that guy or gal in the critter print. Because, really, most of us are rolling our eyes at your critter pants and Lily dresses, anyway.

Currently Coveting: Abstract Prints

P.S. I will make an exception to my "no literal prints" rule for an Alexander McQueen skull scarf.

Toni Francesc and the Barcelonian Look

2011-07-29T10:00:00.008-04:00

I've always had an affinity for Spanish culture. I'm drawn to the vibrant geometry of Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró. I crave rich jamón and manchego. Despite practically failing my AP Spanish exam in high school, I love the feel of the Spanish language on the tongue. And last September, I found Barcelona to be much more inviting, romantic, and above all, delicious, than Paris.

My love for España extends to the fashion, as well. Although Spain has a long history of unique fashion, the country's fashion scene has never quite received the attention as the fashion scenes of Milan and Paris--and many of Spain's biggest design houses like Custo Barcelona and Loewe show their collections elsewhere. However, with the growth of Madrid Fashion Week and 080 Barcelona Fashion, which just took place earlier this month, Spanish fashion is beginning to rise to its rightful position in the fashion world.

A few years ago--I don't remember exactly which season, but I believe Fall 2009--I saw Barcelonian designer Toni Francesc's collection during New York Fashion Week, and I've subsequently remained on the mailing list for Fashion Week updates. This year, I was told, Francesc returned to his hometown of Barcelona and showed his recent collection during 080 Barcelona Fashion. His Spring 2012 collection, "Seekers," is inspired by the freedom and mobility of migratory movements and the earth itself. However, the draped silhouettes in rich earth tones and vivid reds and blues instantly reminded me of the shapes and colors I saw during my trip to Barcelona.

Toni Francesc Spring 2012

Cristóbal Colón Statue, Barcelona

Toni Francesc Spring 2012

Gaudí's Sagrada Família, Barcelona

Toni Francesc Spring 2012

Mies van der Rohe House, Barcelona

The fashion of Barcelona, like the architecture and scenery and divine jamón y queso, is distinct--and indeed, magnificent.

Runway photos via Toni Francesc. The Barcelona photos are my own.

Armani and the Menswear Conundrum

2011-06-28T23:40:00.003-04:00

During the Milan menswear shows last week, Giorgio Armani criticized fashion houses like Prada for creating designs that real men would never wear. Miuccia Prada, he said, has "bad taste that becomes chic" and designs that are "sometimes ugly."

Who does he blame for this menswear conundrum? "Fashion today is in the hands of the banks and of the stock market and not of their owners," said Armani, who runs a financially independent fashion house. He also blames the media, who he says is not critical enough of these "sometimes ugly" and clownish fashions.

I have mixed feelings about Giorgio Armani's complaints and the resulting uproar from the fashion industry. On the one hand, Armani's menswear looks are timeless, if somewhat staid, and there is not a man who wouldn't look his best in one of his impeccably tailored suits. There is probably not a man who would look his best, however, in Prada's colorful pants and golf-inspired suits. (Though, the Prada collection is no worse than Seersucker Thursdays on Capitol Hill, which is truly clownish by fashion standards.)

The Giorgio Armani Spring 2012 Man

The Prada Spring 2012 Man
On the other hand, who decided that bright colors and new silhouettes are fresh and exciting for women, but ugly and inappropriate for men? Recently, I saw an exhibit called The Peacock Male: Exuberance and Extremes in Masculine Dress at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which showed how for centuries, elite men showed their social position or allegiance to a particular social group "with rich fabrics and ornamentation." The colorful, embroidered silk coats of the 18th century and the psychedelic paper shirts of the 1960s would likely be considered ugly and clownish by today's standards, but played important roles in history. And, men do flaunt their social position the same way today, as the Average Joe buys a plain polyester outfit at JoS. A. Bank, while the elite man buys clownish runway fashions--or seersucker suits.

Seersucker Thursday, via Politico
Nonetheless, Armani has a point, as exuberant menswear is eventually relegated to a museum exhibit, while the modern suit remains on the racks. Still, there is nothing he can do about the media. After all, should I ever receive an invitation to one of Mr. Armani's runway shows, would he invite me again if I were critical?

Runway photos via Style.com

Weekend Getaway in Philadelphia

2011-06-20T12:00:00.003-04:00

I spent this past weekend in Philadelphia, a city I've passed through many times en route to New York, but had never gotten to know. When Gilt Groupe's Jetsetter had a deal for the Palomar in trendy Rittenhouse Square, I decided it was time for a weekend getaway, as the city is just under two hours from Washington by train.

Philadelphia offers a mix of historic charm and cultural sophistication that is sometimes missing from Washington's sterile architecture and overcrowded restaurants--and the quiet streets are a refreshing change from New York's hustle and bustle. While there's no place like home--or New York, for that matter--Philadelphia provides a pleasant change of scenery for a weekend.

Stay
If you can get a deal at the Palomar, it's an excellent choice for it's location in one of the city's hippest neighborhoods. In fact, SniqueAway, a travel deals site similar to Jetsetter, currently has rooms at the Palomar starting at $169/night.

The Palomar is a standard Kimpton hotel, so if you've stayed at one before, you know what you're getting. Fortunately, what you're getting is comfortable and stylish, complete with Kimpton's signature daily wine happy hour in the lobby and animal-print bathrobes in your room. Our first room was a standard double with alley view, but the hotel happily switched us to a king room with a sweeping view of the city, as noted in the Jetsetter deal. I appreciated the hotel's small details, like the Art Deco decor with Revolutionary War imagery and Etro toiletries, though the hotel's easy walk to most of our destinations was the best part of the stay.

Hotel Palomar Philadelphia
Eat & Drink
I'm not a big beer drinker, but a dive bar's bland vodka and soda seems all wrong with a burger and fries. Village Whiskey (118 S. 20th Street, Rittenhouse Square) solves the problem by serving classic (and strong!) cocktails with juicy 8 oz. burgers and duck-fat fries. I may be unusual, but I think a cheddar burger tastes much better with a Negroni than a filling beer. With 50s music and industrial decor, Village Whiskey is not too fancy for burgers but stylish enough for Friday night.

Of course, a trip to Philadelphia is not complete without Italian food. Jennie of A Glass of Milk recommended Amís (412 S. 13th Street, Washington Square), one of James Beard chef Marc Vetri's restaurants. The incredible fettuccine with lamb ragu and swiss chard ravioli with spring onion ragu both literally melt in your mouth, and you're not too full for scrumptious polenta strawberry shortcake for dessert.

Shop
If you like to shop, Philadelphia has a variety of unique boutiques, particularly on N. 3rd Street in Olde City. Art in the Age (116 N. 3rd Street) offers a small but well-curated collection of men's and women's casual clothing, housewares, art, and the store's signature Root liquor. Sugarcube® (124 N. 3rd Street), a few doors down, is worth a stop for men's and women's vintage as well as a large selection of labels like A.P.C. and Frock! by Tracy Reese. For edible souvenirs, visit the 9th Street Italian Market for fresh pasta and cheese, as well as vegetables that are practically free compared to DC farmers' market prices.

Sugarcube®
Learn
Philadelphia has history and culture for every taste. We visited the Liberty Bell Center (526 Market Street) for a dash of history, and although the actual bell is surprisingly unimpressive, the small museum tells the story of the bell's significance and is worth a visit. At the Philadelphia Museum of Art (26th Street & Benjamin Franklin Parkway), skip the main building and take the shuttle to the Perelman Building, which currently has two fascinating exhibits on men's tailoring and men's extreme fashion, as well as a startling collection of controversial photos from the 1970s-1990s.

Vivienne Westwood Man's Bondage Suit, c. 1990
The Peacock Male, Philadelphia Museum of Art

Photos via Palomar Philadelphia, VisitPhilly.com, and Philadelphia Museum of Art

Camilla Olson, Terp Turned Fashion Designer

2011-06-08T19:48:00.002-04:00

I can't tell you the name of the University of Maryland's new basketball coach since Gary Williams's recent retirement, but I do like to keep informed about what's happening at my alma mater in College Park, Maryland. Of course, when the alumni magazine arrived in my mailbox today, I flipped through it.

And there, among the articles on the end of "Garyland" and the long-awaited arrival of air conditioning to the freshman dorms, was an article on new fashion designer Camilla Olson, a 1975 graduate of Maryland and a more recent graduate of the Academy of Art University's fashion design program. Maryland doesn't have a fashion design program--indeed, the school's most famous grads include the likes of Google's Sergey Brin and a slew of media personalities like Connie Chung and Giuliana Rancic, not fashion designers. I was surprised, and thrilled, to see a Maryland alumna making a name for herself as a fashion designer--and showing at New York Fashion Week last September, no less.

Camilla Olson in Terp
The biotech venture capitalist--what else do you expect from a Terp?--visited the Academy of Art University with her college-bound daughter, yet decided that she would attend the design school. Upon graduation, she was invited to present her collection during the Academy of Art University show during the Spring/Summer 2011 collections in New York last fall.

Her Spring/Summer 2011 collection features streamlined silk sheath dresses with interesting cage-like overlay details. In dark colors but breathable fabrics, these dresses are the kind I always seek for summer work attire but can rarely find amid the unfortunate sundresses and preppy separates that fill the stores this time of year.

From one Terp to another who found her way to fashion, here's a huge congratulations to Camilla! I can't wait to see what she does next.

Photos via CamillaOlson.com

Fashion Diplomacy

2011-05-25T19:55:00.003-04:00

While her outfit to greet the Queen in London yesterday was lacking, Michelle Obama's evening gowns the past two nights have been quite simply some of her best looks to date. Interestingly, they have been some of her most simple and all-American looks to date, too.

For yesterday's state dinner at Buckingham Palace, she wore a regal white gown by American fashion celebrity Tom Ford. The gown was beautiful, but opinions have been mixed: some say it was a brilliant choice, since Ford is an American designer headquartered in London, while others say the choice was too big of a label and too reminiscent of Jackie Kennedy. Me? Aside from the ribbon bow, I love it--even if it doesn't live up to another white gown we recently saw in London.

Michelle Obama in Tom Ford
"Who is this dorky guy standing next to me?"
Tonight, she wore a simple yet stately black gown by perhaps the most American of all American designers, Ralph Lauren. I don't think Michelle Obama has ever looked better. The dress is timeless yet utterly flattering--and if the simple black dress was ever out of fashion, it will definitely make a comeback.

Michelle Obama in Ralph Lauren
These looks are interesting for two reasons: the sheer simplicity of the gowns, and the American labels. In March, Michelle Obama was lambasted for wearing a gown by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen to the White House state dinner with Chinese President Hu Jintao. Although I liked the dress, it was an odd choice for the U.S. First Lady, to say the least, and a tad overwhelming in relation to the occasion and the attire of the other guests. Michelle Obama was definitely trying to play it safe in her gown choices this week, yet in doing so, she created two of her most iconic looks while promoting two of our country's most renowned designers.

Aside from choosing a few daytime looks by British designers this week, Michelle Obama's UK visit has been a veritable runway of the best of American fashion design, ranging from big names like Ralph Lauren, to designers who aren't yet household names like Barbara Tfank and Peter Som. Since Michelle Obama has been meeting with some of the UK's, if not the world's, most famous fashion plates, her promotion of American designers is the best kind of diplomacy she can do.

Michelle Obama, Kate Middleton, and Dressing for Yourself

2011-05-24T10:00:00.008-04:00

After receiving much criticism for wearing--horror!--a cardigan sweater to meet the Queen of England in 2009, First Lady Michelle Obama played it safe at Buckingham Palace today in a blue silk dress and bubblegum pink bolero from the Barbara Tfank Resort 2011 collection. Indeed, the Queen looks like the casual one.

Though I admire Barbara Tfank's 60s flare, I'm not impressed with the First Lady's pick. The overall look is too juvenile given Michelle Obama's stature and position. Her hair and makeup are flawless, but the volume of the dress is unflattering and the bolero chops her height, making her look like a little girl playing tea party.

Michelle Obama plays it safe in Barbara Tfank while chatting with the Duchess of Cornwall.
Via Getty Images
This is the second time that Michelle Obama has bungled her Buckingham Palace attire. What's the issue? This is a clear example of why women should dress for their tastes and their body types, rather than dressing for those around them. Michelle Obama knows that the Queen is going to wear a precious tea-length dress and accessorize with a coordinating bag and hat--but that doesn't mean she needs to do it, too. She also knows that she stuns in a fitted sheath dress--and judging by the attire of the Queen's new granddaughter-in-law, I doubt anyone would think it inappropriate for Michelle Obama to wear what looks best on her body. She could even add a cardigan if she doesn't want to show her arms.

Speaking of the Duchess of Cambridge, she is a woman who knows how to dress for her body type. Although a bandage sheath dress from a chain store wouldn't necessarily be the obvious choice for entertaining foreign dignitaries, Catherine Middleton looks elegant and, most importantly, completely at ease.

Catherine Middleton, wearing Reiss, chats with First Lady Michelle Obama.
Via Hollywood Life
And, that's more than I can say for the First Lady, who is typically flawless but suddenly standing awkwardly in a bubblegum pink bolero.

Kal Rieman for Every Woman

2011-05-19T09:00:00.008-04:00

On Tuesday, I headed to the Studio Gallery in Washington's Dupont Circle for the Kal Rieman trunk show. As I mentioned, Cally Rieman is a New York-based designer who has been on a trunk show tour to expand her collection outside of New York City. She showed sophisticated, versatile collections of menswear-inspired clothes for women of all lifestyles, and the clothes will undoubtedly be a hit in the Washington market. Seriously, women of all ages and sizes tried on her luxurious silk tunic blouses and structured suiting separates--and seriously, the clothes looked terrific on everyone.

Kal Rieman defines the "investment piece," as the clothes were chic but timeless--and, in fact, very reasonably priced considering the superior quality and fit. As the team explained, Cally wants women to think about their clothing the way stylish men do, and buy high-quality garments that fit perfectly and last for a long time. This is smart, and as I get older, I have started to buy fewer but better pieces that are truly beautiful. Without fail, the clothes I get rid of each season are the clothes that I bought cheaply from chain stores.

I was particularly impressed by the outerwear. It's difficult to find outerwear that is stylish and fits well, while still being unique. The Kal Rieman coats--and especially the fabulous sleeveless coat that I bought!--fit the bill.

Kal Rieman Herringbone Wrap Coat, Fall 2011 Collection

Kal Rieman Vest with Navajo-Inspired Lining
This Italian wool herringbone vest (below) was my can't-live-without-it purchase! It's one-size-fits-all, and since I'm very petite, I thought the vest would swallow me, but I was thrilled when it fit perfectly. I will show you a picture when it arrives in the fall!

Kal Rieman Trimmed Herringbone Vest, Fall 2011 Collection

For buying inquiries, contact sales@kalrieman.com.

Shop 'Til You Drop from Washington to London

2011-05-16T23:45:00.004-04:00

I've been pining for London this week, but if you need a fashion fix, you can't go wrong with a high-fashion event in Washington this week, either.

You probably just packed up your fall and winter clothes for the summer, but you had better start thinking ahead at a must-attend fashion event at the Studio Gallery in Dupont Circle. New York-based designer Cally Rieman of label Kal Rieman is bringing her Fall/Winter 2011 collection to Washington for a trunk show--but don't worry, the Spring/Summer 2011 collection will be available for cash purchase, too. Rieman's early career included designing menswear for H Hilfiger, and the menswear influence is evident in a collection that should definitely do well in the Washington market. I can't wait to see it!

Kal Rieman Sophia Reversible Vest, $660
This vest almost makes me want to skip summer.
And, if you do happen to be in London this week, you definitely won't want to miss the champagne and discounts at Aqua on Carnaby Street on Thursday. Aqua is a mid-priced chain boutique known for body-skimming silhouettes and skirts that are fit for Judy Jetson. I'll have to order online, but if you just so happen to be in London, stop by for 30 percent off.

Aqua Lobster Dress in Cream, $194

Aqua Enill Mini Dress in Tomato, $210.50

Aqua Wendy Dress in Black, $125

Wherever you are, happy shopping--and don't spend too much before the Memorial Day sales!

Fashion Inspiration: Suburbia, 1976

2011-05-15T17:30:00.008-04:00

On a lazy, channel-flipping Sunday, I stumbled upon Dazed and Confused, one of those films I know I should have seen for the cultural references. I expected to be entertained, but I never expected to find fashion inspiration, despite the 70s fashion revival in full swing. The film chronicles high school students in suburban Texas in May 1976, and it seems that "1970s suburban youth" is the exact look I've tried to copy with my purchases of high-waisted jeans and filmy floral blouses.

Dazed and Confused
This particular 70s look is not as overdone as the disco look but iconic nonetheless. It's relaxed and personified by clean, curvy denim, feminine blouses or casual colorful tees, and rugged leather accessories. The naturally sun-kissed skin may no longer be chic, but the naturally wavy hair and the dewey or non-existent makeup is perfect for sticky summer days and nights.

As a suburban teenager in 1976, my Mom perfected this look. I've seen many yellow-tinted photos of her in high-waisted pants, smocked tops, and a fantastic peach mid-length, ruffled Homecoming dress that I wish I could wear with platform sandals to a cocktail party next weekend. Her hair was either perfectly straight or, by the time of her senior prom, perfectly flipped à la Farrah Fawcett. The only difference between her 1976 look and my 2011 vision is that she would scour Butterick patterns for inspiration, while I scour eBay. (I'd love to show you a photo of that dress, but I doubt she'll let me!)

Rebecca Taylor ruffle dress
$375 - shopbop.com

Blouse
$225 - pinkmascara.com

Splendid vintage tank top
$44 - net-a-porter.com

House of Harlow 1960 turquoise jewelry
$95 - shopthetrendboutique.com

Tan belt
$45 - topshop.com

7 For All Mankind Trouser in Bleecker Vintage
$178 - 7forallmankind.com

Stuart Weitzman Strutting Sandal
$375 - shoptheshoebox.com

Matt Bernson dark tan woven leather ankle wrap wedges
$111 - bluefly.com

What I'm Wearing: White House Correspondents Association Dinner Weekend

2011-04-29T15:00:00.009-04:00

If you're a journalist in Washington, you get invited to a lot of events. And, usually, you'll attend--after all, how else will you dine on fine wine and brie cheese if not for taking advantage of the perks of being in the press? The crème de la crème of journalist events, however, is the White House Correspondents Association (WHCA) Dinner, held annually in late April or early May at the Washington Hilton near Dupont Circle and featuring a speech by the President of the United States himself.

The funny thing about the WHCA Dinner is that a large number of attendees aren't covering the White House--if they're even journalists at all. These days, attendees include a random assortment of C-list celebrities and socialites who probably couldn't tell you the name of the White House Press Secretary. And the after parties? I've always managed to find a way in, but I'll admit that I've gotten more legitimate after-party invitations in my post-journalism life than when I worked for a national political magazine.

Nonetheless, the dinner makes for a festive weekend, and many of my favorite Washington memories involve chasing celebrities around the Washington Hilton and swigging champagne at venues like the Newseum until late in the evening.

WHCAD 2008 with pre-divorce Pete Wentz and Ashlee Simpson and WHCAD 2009 with Ed Westwick
Tonight, I'm excited to don a cocktail dress for a real dinner out--as opposed to the plate of overdone meat at the official dinner--followed by a post-party or two. I'll be wearing a dress purchased at Harrods in London, along with nude accessories and sparkly yellow accents.

All Saints v neck dress
$480 - allsaints.com

Halston Heritage short coat
190 GBP - my-wardrobe.com

Joan and David couture shoes
$145 - piperlime.gap.com

Lauren Merkin lambskin handbag
$124 - endless.com

Princess cut earring
$24 - fantasyjewelrybox.com

Cubic Zirconia by Kenneth Jay Lane Canary Cubic Zirconia Ring
$147 - endless.com

If you managed to score an invite to any of these events, I recommend you 1. bring a jacket--I'm wearing my vintage 80s white rabbit fur--because it's sometimes difficult to get a taxi and it's a tad chilly tonight, and 2. wear a short dress, because it can be a long, champagne-soaked evening!

Kate Middleton, Fashion Icon

2011-04-29T09:10:00.006-04:00

I'm not a morning person--in fact, you might say I'm the opposite of a morning person. But, since I've followed Kate Middleton's style on this blog and wrote about her effect on the fashion industry in London, I felt obligated to wake up and watch the wedding arrivals and ceremony, if only from the comfort of my bed. And, I'm so glad I did.

I'm not only not a morning person, but I'm also not one to necessarily get choked up about weddings. Yet, the wedding ceremony of William, Duke of Cambridge, and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, was a beautiful and authentic affair. I was surprised that, despite the pomp and circumstance, it seemed no different than the wedding of any other non-royal people in love. And, as a friend tweeted, it's wonderful to simply watch a happy occasion, rather than violence or disaster.

Now--onto the dress and accessories.

Duchess Kate Middleton in Alexander McQueen, with the Duke of Cambridge
The rumors for weeks had been that Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen was designing the royal gown. She denied it, but the rumors turned out to be true when Kate appeared, radiant in a thoroughly modern gown with vintage details and clear homage to Alexander McQueen's architectural aesthetic. According to Bloomberg,

The dress was made of ivory and white satin gazar, a loosely woven silk, with the skirt echoing an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats and a train measuring 2.7 meters (9 feet). The ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry and is a hallmark of McQueen’s designs...

Middleton’s dress...featured a lace applique bodice and skirt handmade by the Royal School of Needlework and lace flowers on ivory silk tulle in a design incorporating the symbolic rose of England, thistle of Scotland, daffodil of Wales and shamrock of Ireland...

Her shoes were handmade by the team at McQueen of ivory duchesse satin with lace hand-embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework. The veil was made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers.

Oh, yes--and a Cartier halo tiara, circa 1936.

If there was ever any question about Kate Middleton's future as a fashion icon, these questions have been discarded. Her gown choice shows her respect for royal tradition as well as her knowledge of high fashion, and the dress is sure to influence wedding and formal-attire style.

And, hopefully, contemporary brides will move away from the unflattering strapless gowns and unnecessarily poufy skirts that are so popular and opt for something more regal--and sleeved.

Photos via AP/Salt Lake Tribune, which has a lovely gallery.

Noon By Noor, Bahrain's Rising Fashion Stars

2011-04-28T00:00:00.000-04:00

Following London Fashion Week in February, I was lucky to relax for a few days on the Persian Gulf coast in Dubai. While Tweeting about my first adventure in the Middle East, I received a message from a Bahraini fashion brand, Noon By Noor, inviting me to their fashion show during Bahrain Fashion Week in early March. Alas, I could not make the trip to Bahrain, but I was intrigued by Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, the talented duo behind the brand--who, incidentally, studied fashion design in Washington, D.C. It was inspiring that, despite the turmoil going on at the time in Bahrain, these two young women were continuing their business activities and doing their part to put Bahrain's growing fashion industry on the global radar.

Since I couldn't attend the show, the designers answered a few of my questions via email--and someday, I hope to meet them in person at a fashion week.

Samantha On Style (SOS): How did you start your careers in fashion?

Noon By Noor (NBN): We began our journey, together, when we made a move from the Middle East to the United States to study fashion design in Washington DC. From our very first exposure to the program, we realized that we wanted to be involved in every step of the fashion design process, from concept to final product. The decision to launch the luxury high-end clothing line, Noon By Noor, came shortly after.

SOS: What inspires you in the design process? In particular, for your latest collection? Are there any stand-out items you most want to draw my attention to?

NBN: We draw our inspirations from traditional Arabian styles, but we add a touch of modernity by using luxurious textiles and dazzling embellishments from all over the world. In our current collection, we use an assortment of soft jerseys, opulent silks, and rich satins, which really make the line standout.

LOOK #1: cotton shirt with metallic effect, beige harem pants, and decorative headband with crystal embellishments

LOOK #2: body-elongating jumpsuit in opulent, jewel-toned silk, with crystal embellishments
SOS: What type of woman do you design for?

NBN: We design for the modern sophisticated woman who is confident, independent, multicultural, and daring with her style. She appreciates unique textiles, intricate details, and distinctive cuts.

SOS: What is your most prized possession in your closet?

Noor: For me, it would definitely be my Hermes Birkin Bag.

Haya: And for me, my most prized possession would be my Classic Chanel Bag.

SOS: What is most unique about fashion in Bahrain? What would you like people to know about fashion in Bahrain or the fashion industry in Bahrain?

NBN: Fashion in Bahrain is unique because it represents every point in the fashion spectrum. Through simple observation of Bahrain’s society, you’ll notice people draped in traditional garments, while others sport the latest looks off the runway. For us, we wanted to design a contemporary line for the woman of today, while paying tribute to our Bahraini heritage. In order to do this, we envisioned classic Arabic patterns, such as traditional harem pants, while leaving a timeless imprint on each one of our creations.

SOS: Anything else you'd like to share?

NBN: We are also very proud to have our base in the Seef District of Bahrain, along with many other emerging companies. We hope that Noon by Noor will ultimately help Bahrain be recognized on the “fashion map” and promote the creativity of the country.

I love the Noon By Noor aesthetic, which mixes the elegance of Washington with the exoticness of the Arabian Peninsula. Until I can see their designs in person, I'll be stalking their website, where they hope to launch an online boutique by June. I expect we'll see much more from Noor and Haya, both in the Middle East and beyond.