I was blown away by Montevideo this past November. It has that bohemian, artsy vibe that I love about San Telmo but you feel like you are in a beach town. I’d been through the city a number of times on my way to the beaches further east, but I’d never actually spent any time there. Big mistake.

What a charming city, especially if you have spent time in hectic Buenos Aires. It’s calmer, more laid back, and they take advantage of the river! One of my biggest disappointments with Buenos Aires is that there aren’t great eateries and promenades along the river. But in Montevideo, we saw kite surfers and families along the river’s beaches, people heading to the bars and cafes near the river to take in the sunset, and the massive Rambla is perfect for cycling, roller blading, getting in a run, or just walking off all of the fabulous food and drink.

La Puerta de la Ciudadela or the Gateway of the Citadel still stands.

Like Buenos Aires, the architecture is amazing, a mix of colonial, Art Deco, beautifully hideous 1970s towers next to turn-of-the-century palaces (great post about the architecture along Avenida 18 de Julio).

Eclectic architecture in Montevideo.

One of my favorite buildings in Buenos Aires is Palacio Barolo. The architect, Mario Palanti, also designed Palacio Salvo (twin buildings Barolo and Salvo) found in Plaza Independencia which divides Ciudad Vieja from Downtown Montevideo.

Plaza Independencia and the Artigas tomb.

Plaza Independencia is the heart of the capital. Towards the river is the stunning Teatro Solis and right in the center of the plaza is a statue and tomb of Jose Gervasio Artigas, Uruguay’s founding father, a revolutionary who led a revolt against the Spanish government.

Where to Stay in Montevideo: Ciudad Vieja

Fabulous Teatro Solis looking toward Plaza Independencia

To take in the architecture and be able to walk to everything (yay for walkable cities), we knew we wanted to stay in the old town, Ciudad Vieja. We found a boutique guesthouse run by the lovely Karen Higgs and her husband Sergio. Karen also happens to write my favorite blog on Uruguay, Guru’guay!

Check out this view of Ciudad Vieja from Casa Sarandi.

Check out the view of Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja from Casa Sarandi.

Casa Sarandi is perfectly located and beautifully decorated. When you check in, Karen gives you a welcome packet with awesome tips on how to get the most out of your time. Sometimes expats know their adopted city better than locals. Karen is that type of expat. What’s more, she likes what I like. If you ask me, her welcome packet is reason enough to stay at Casa Sarandi.

Our room at the Casa Sarandi Guesthouse in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja. We slept so well!

Our room was perfect. Gorgeous linens and such a comfortable bed I had trouble getting Naty to explore with me. I love the colors and the respect for the history of the building and the area. Look at those parquet floors and molding on the walls, the attention to detail is fabulous.

The well-equipped, impeccably clean kitchen of Casa Sarandi in Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo.

Casa Sarandi has three rooms. Ours was the one right next to the amazing kitchen. I’ll admit, we barely used it. We made mate. Had coffee (there’s a stash in the pantry in case you don’t have your own), and stored some cold drinks, but we didn’t cook any meals. We could have, but the food in Montevideo was awesome and we were on vacation.

Also, I had the chance to photograph all three rooms, so I’ll write a longer review of Casa Sarandi in a future post so you can see the whole beautiful guesthouse.

– Casa Sarandi, Buenos Aires, 558

Where to Eat in Montevideo

A beautiful fish entree at Estrecho in Montevideo.

Having spent so much time in Argentina, we were thrilled that Montevideo restaurants had excellent fish and chicken options, something other than steak please!

Naty ordered an Asian-inspired vegetable dish at Estrecho in Montevideo.

We took Karen’s advice and had our first lunch at Estrecho on the pedestrian street that runs through Ciudad Vieja, Peatonal Sarandi. It looks like an old-fashioned diner, but the food is anything but diner food. Sophisticated French fusion, a little pricey, but so worth it. You sit at the long bar and watch each station of the kitchen as dishes are beautifully prepared.

Grab a seat at the bar, socialize with the locals, and watch your food be prepared at Estrecho in Montevideo.

We got a spot right away, but it was packed. There were businessmen eating alone, couples sharing their plates, and I was the only one taking pictures of my food. Definitely a locals’ favorite.

– Estrecho, Sarandi, 460 (w/ Misiones) – Open Mon – Fri from 12:00 to 16:00

My previous trips to Uruguay were to the beaches or to Colonia del Sacramento. I was always disappointed by the food, finding it pricey and for the tastebuds of a 5-year-old. Not the case in Montevideo.

Cafe Brasilero, an old-fashioned coffee shop and bar in Montevideo.

Cortado, cafe americano, and two medialunas. A typical Uruguayan breakfast.

On day 2, we had a typical Uruguayan breakfast, medialunas (croissants) and cortados (espresso and frothed milk), at Cafe Brasilero, a stunning historic cafe just a short walk from our guesthouse.

– Cafe Brasilero, Ituzaingo, 1147 (w/ 25 de Mayo) – Open daily from 9:00

The touristy Mercado del Puerto is well worth a visit.

Taking Karen’s advice again, we had our second lunch at the Mercado del Puerto. It’s touristy, but don’t let that keep you away. Also, don’t let the guys whose job it is to get you to choose their locale bother you. They will try to woo you. Take your time, pick the spot for you and ignore their pleas.

Look for the locals in the Mercado del Puerto and sit next to them.

Once we chose a spot, we practically had our own personal parillero.

I’ve never seen so many grills in one place. We got pulpo (octopus) and lamb empanadas. I can’t wait to go back there with John. It’s a meat-lovers paradise. And the cuts are different than Argentine cuts.

Medio y Medio at the Mercado del Puerto in Montevideo.

Make sure you order a medio y medio at the Mercado. Half sparkling wine and half white wine, it’s what every local there was drinking. Thirst quenching and still light enough that it won’t knock you out for the rest of the afternoon.

– Mercado del Puerto, Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 – Open daily for lunch, liveliest on Sundays

The food is creative and delicious at Dueto.

Our last dinner was at the romantic Dueto, which serves “urban cuisine.” Their set menu is a great deal. Three courses for 500 pesos uruguayos. The presentation was beautiful, dishes were imaginative, and everything was fresh and delicious.

Lamb Chops at Dueto in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja.

Dueto’s postres are out of this world.

Plus, the ambiance is stunning. It’s housed in an Art Deco ex-police station. Try to get the table at the window and have someone take your picture. So pretty.

– Dueto Cocina Urbana, Bartolome Mitre, 1386 (b/t Sarandi & Rincon) – Open daily for lunch, liveliest on Sundays

Where to Get a Drink in Montevideo

Sun setting over the Rio de la Plata in Montevideo.

There is no shortage of places to watch the sunset in Montevideo. We chose Santa Catalina because it’s right down the road from Casa Sarandi and because we love Uruguay’s ex-President, Jose Mujica. Have you heard of Uruguay’s awesome ex-President? He had his first lunch as President at this rustic joint packed with young people. We didn’t eat here, but I did check out the menu. They serve typical Uruguayan food, big portions and great prices.

Naty enjoying a beer at Santa Catalina as the sun sets over the river.

Ojo! One big piece of advice, make sure you check the amount you are charged and check your change. We felt we were shortchanged and it appears others on Foursquare have the same to say. Still, I’d go back, but I would stop the waiter and pull out my calculator.

– Santa Catalina, Ciudadela  (w/ Canelones) – Open Mon – Sat from 19:00hs.

Even the cats in Montevideo have their mate.

Montevideo Brew House is another great watering hole. It’s a bit further away, not walking distance. But the cab ride there was quick and it gives you the chance to see some of the more residential areas of the city as well as the massive Parque Rodo, Montevideo’s oldest park. Microbrews aren’t very common in Buenos Aires, so if you’re tired of Quilmes and longing for something with more body, this is the place the come. The food was great, too. Yummy ojo de bife!

– Montevideo Brew House, Libertad, 2592 (w/ Viejo Poncho, Pocitos) – Open Mon – Sat from 19:00hs.

Across the way from Teatro Solis is a cross street between Ciudadela  and Canelones with several lively bars one right after the other. La Ronda has outdoor seating and a young, hip crowd playing games, joking around and drinking.

Baar Fun Fun is just outside of Ciudad Vieja and a very popular spot for locals. Eclectic decor, friendly staff, great live music and the fact that it is walking distance from Casa Sarandi make this my top choice for nightlife. This location is temporary as they are updating their locale in Ciudad Vieja, so make sure you check their site for their location depending on when you are going.

– Bar Fun Fun, Soriano, 922, Open Tues – Sat from 19:30 – 2:30

What to Do in Montevideo

Go shopping along Peatonal Sarandi.

Wandering along the peatonal checking out the various stands (tons of great antique stands), sitting under the umbrellas in the outdoor cafes to people watch, and looking up at the stunning buildings was my favorite activity. But there is a lot more to do than that and the best resource for things to do in Montevideo is Karen’s blog Guruguay. Here are a few highlights.

Montevideo’s Live Music Scene
Sailing Lessons, Boat & Windsurf in Montevideo
Seven Essential Secrets to Having the Best Time in Montevideo
Parque Rodo, Montevideo’s Oldest Park
Four Days and Nights in Montevideo

We wanted to go to several museums, but just didn’t have the time to fit them in. Everyone raves about the Museo del Gaucho. Also on our list for next time are the Andes 1972 Museum and the Museo Torres Garcia.

Stunning Teatro Solis is just down the road from Casa Sarandi.

Next time, I’ll see a show at Teatro Solis, visit a Uruguayan winery, and tackle the remaining items on this list of 20 Reasons to Visit Montevideo. I’ll also check out the site Cartelera to see what shows are on while I’m there. If your Spanish isn’t great, check Guru’guay’s Facebook page for daily updates of what’s happening in town. Montevideo has a vibrant, versatile music scene and a lot of small theaters. Historic, artsy, sophisticated but not pretentious, I think I could live in Montevideo!

Getting Around Montevideo

It’s a walkable city, but there are plenty of taxis and the bus system is great.

So much of what you’ll want to see and do is within walking distance if you stay in Ciudad Vieja. When you do want to head further out, taxis are abundant and they accept US dollars and give you your change in pesos Uruguayos. Also, the bus system is great and you can pay the driver when you get on the bus, plus the driver will give you change (hello Buenos Aires buses!).

Slow down. Take it easy. Relax on a balcony and watch the world go by in Montevideo.

To see your transportation options, pick up the pocket guide Guia de Montevideo Eureka at a newstand. Unlike the Guia T in Buenos Aires, they actually tell you where the buses stop. Alternatively, visit this government site and put in the two addresses.

Getting to Montevideo from Buenos Aires

Take the ferry from Buenos Aires across this massive river.

I really like taking the three-hour ferry across the river (though the picture is of a cruise ship, the ferries are much smaller). But you can also fly and be there in just 50 minutes. Karen wrote a post about which airlines to avoid when flying into Montevideo. And she did another very thorough post about the ferry options from Buenos Aires.

Anyone else got recommendations for those visiting Montevideo? Leave them in the comments below, please. 

From our favorite food blogger ever, I’m reposting her long and fabulous list of great restaurants in Lima, Peru. Because Allie is our favorite food blogger and because Lima!!! We are dying to go there (and eat there).

In Love with Lima Part 1: The Restaurant Bible – Pick Up The Fork.

Our esteem for the blog Pick Up The Fork began roughly five years ago when we were looking for good pizza in Buenos Aires, Allie introduced us to Siamo nel Forno. It’s absolutely not Argentinean pizza. But for those who like thin crust, or better, Italian-style pizza, this place is awesome.

We subscribed to Allie’s blog. Since then, she has become the go-to source for the next places I want to try. Some are places I should have known about (i.e. they are in my neighborhood, not hers, and some girl from Palermo or environs told me about it… for shame!).

So, let’s do share this AH-mazing list (or Bible) of food spots in Lima! We are in good hands.

Let’s go eat in Lima.

Argentina has made it to the semi-finals of the World Cup for the first time since 1990. Are you going to watch the match against The Netherlands today? If so, find an Argentine flag (that shouldn’t be hard to do since it’s also July 9, which is Independence Day) or at least wear blue and white, and get ready to focus intently. Watching a World Cup match in Argentina is not like watching a football game in the States. You need to pay close attention. And don’t get all bold and bragging or you’ll jinx it. Remember, it is never over until it is over. 

This is a big deal. A really big deal. If you are in Buenos Aires, but not paying attention to the World Cup, soon you will not have a choice. Everything will shut down. You won’t find a taxi. You will find a bus or two, but not more. Buenos Aires becomes a ghost town. Here, read this post I wrote four years ago transcribing one of my favorite World Cup commercials. It will help explain just how passionate Argentines are about futbol and it’s one of my favorite posts we’ve written. Guess I’m a sucker for the albiceleste.

Watching Soccer in San Telmo

Things have changed a bit since the last time I wrote about good places to watch World Cup matches in Buenos Aires. This time around, we like Gibraltar on Peru St. between Estados Unidos and Independencia. But it can get crowded and there aren’t a ton of seats, so keep Breoghan on Bolivar in mind, too. Try also La Puerta Roja on Chacabuco and Las del Barco on Bolivar. Krakow on Venezuela is another good option. There is a Pinterest board for Where to Watch World Cup Matches in Argentina. You’ll find some good suggestions there and all over the country. Plus, you can add to the list if you find a great spot.

Watch the Match with a Huge Crowd

Plaza San Martin in Retiro is the best place to watch the match with hordes of people. Sure you will be outside in the elements and you might not have the best view and getting a Quilmes might prove challenging, but you’ll be completely surrounded by albiceleste fans. Fun!

Where Else to Watch World Cup Matches in Buenos Aires

Be sure to check out Sorrel William’s fun read about where to watch the various World Cup matches if you are looking to pair the teams playing with the food you eat. Landing Pad BA also has a great list of go-to places throughout the city.

World Cup 2014 Hasta Ahora

It’s been a great World Cup for Argentina. Messi scored a goal in the 90th minute in their match against Iran. Di Maria scored a lovely goal against Switzerland and showed his love to the world. And in the last match, Higuaín scored early on and we all breathed a sigh of relief and then held our breaths the rest of the match. When he almost scored another goal, Alejandro Sabella, the coach, nearly fainted (not really) and started one of my favorite World Cup memes yet.

For more Sabella memes, check out our absolute favorite snarky local news provider, Bubblear. And do subscribe to them. You’ll thank me. Argentines are not cocky about their team or their chances. There’s plenty of reason not to be cocky. Argentines are actually quite superstitious. Though, probably not quite as superstitious as the Brazilians. But maybe that is because the Pope is most certainly praying for an albiceleste win. Want to learn a bit more about the Argentine team? Check out Anuva Wines’ post describing the albiceleste or dig deeper into the star we are all watching and read this longer piece “Lionel Messi is Impossible,” to learn just what it is that makes Messi the best player in the world (sorry, Ronaldo…. not!). Opening Image Credit: Shutterstock (Argentine flag)

It’s been a year of big changes over here at San Telmo Loft. Not a lot of blogging has happened, but our vacation rentals in Buenos Aires have been running full steam ahead. And we are excited about some fabulous additions coming soon.

One change is that we are no longer renting out rooms. The Guesthouse is now one spectacular three-bedroom home at an amazing price. It’s our largest rental and, in many ways, it’s our most unique.

We’ve also changed property managers. Grisel Casin, a professional property manager in Buenos Aires for many years, is our newest addition to the team. She is also a great friend of ours. You’ll love her.

Grisel with returning guests Brad and Susan in The Gallery.

With a great team on the ground, we have been able to expand our collection, adding three new apartments in the next months, so stay tuned. The first one belongs to Grisel and we are calling it The Gallery on Defensa. We’re upping the ante. With quite a few one bedroom apartments already in our collection, we are delighted to offer this luxurious two bedroom/two bathroom dynamo.

We promise to remain selective and to vet each place thoroughly, always limiting our collection to roughly 10 spots per city.

If you have a vacation rental in San Telmo or near San Telmo that you would like for us to have a look at, get in touch. We’d love to hear from you. 

Great food, great architecture, cool cats. New Orleans. The French Quarter. Our first year.

The biggest change of the past year is that John, the cats, and I have moved to New Orleans. We’re closer to family and since we’re living in the French Quarter it feels a lot like San Telmo. Living in the historic district has softened the inevitable culture shock.

From our balcony in the French Quarter on Royal Street.

What’s Next?

Our next goal is to add a few more cities. We’ll need to find the San Telmo neighborhood of each new city, move there for a bit, get to know the area, and look for the apartments that match our vibe. We’ll look for unique, affordable apartments and keep our list to roughly 10 vacation rentals per city. We’re beyond excited to get started.

We’ve got plans for the first two cities. Do you have a city you’d like to explore? We’d be delighted to hear your suggestions.

The iconic Loft, our first vacation rental, is how our story begins. It had to match the vibe of San Telmo, and it does: bohemian, soulful, loved. It’s our most romantic spot (honeymoon haven), and, like our other vacation rentals,  it’s quiet, stylish, and affordable. 

Our collection of hand-picked vacation rentals has grown over the past six years, and it all started with The Loft when Angela moved to Buenos Aires and was looking to rent a furnished apartment. Most places had zero style, furnished with what seemed like every odd piece family members could throw in, broken or not, unwanted furniture stuck randomly in an apartment with zero consideration for space or style. Others were furnished as if out of a catalog, no personality.

The futon here in the living room is where a third person can sleep. It’s a hard mattress, but really comfortable if you like hard mattresses.

We sought to create spaces that have a style, a distinct style. San Telmo is the most bohemian barrio of Buenos Aires. You won’t be able to forget that you are indeed just two blocks away from Plaza Dorrego, home to the famous Sunday Antique Fair.

Our reupholstered sofa inspired the rest of the design of The Loft. When we dropped it off at the upholsterers, he thought we’d lost our minds. But when we went back to pick it up, he said having the sofa sitting in the front of his shop was a customer magnet.

The antique iron is just for decoration. We have a modern one, too.

Massively high ceilings allowed us to put in the upstairs bedroom. Parquet floors turn to a metal grate which lets in more light from below. We left the end wide open to create a more airy and spacious ambiance looking out onto the living room.

A cozy upstairs bedroom. It stays very warm in winter and the AC you see keeps everything cooled off in summer.

We also added an en-suite bathroom upstairs with an awesome shower and a small vanity space with an antique brass sink we found in the barrio.

The bronze sink in the upstairs bathroom.

The sofa separates the main living area from the kitchen, desk space, and downstairs bathroom. So while it’s all one big open space, each section has its purpose. We created intimate spaces where one of you can plug in your phone to the speakers and listen to music, while the other lounges on the sofa and reads a book.

Colorful tiles in the kitchen were inspired by the textiles on the sofa.

The kitchen is one of our favorite parts of the whole apartment. We love the bright colors and the long bar. If you’re like us and you enjoy cooking even while on vacation, you’ll love heading to the famer’s market on Saturday to pick up some fresh produce or visiting the butcher in the San Telmo Market at Puesto 54 and coming back home for steak and wine.

Looking down to the living room from the grated loft upstairs where the bedroom is.

The Loft is on the second floor of a characteristic turn-of-the-century building. Two blocks from Plaza Dorrego and two blocks from Puerto Madero, you’ll be within walking distance of two of the most in-demand neighborhoods of Buenos Aires. Read about why we love this neighborhood in our blog post, I Love San Telmo. And to learn more about Puerto Madero, check out Rowing in Buenos Aires and La Reserva Ecologica.

You’ll want to explore San Telmo’s Casas de Tango, small traditional restaurants known as bodegones, old-fashioned bars known as bares notables, antique and vintage shops, and trendy new restaurants, cafes, and fancy boutiques. Day or night, San Telmo is full of activity.

 Learn more about The Loft or inquire about its availabilities.