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I’d been to Miami several times before.  My first airplane trip was to the Magic City, with my family when I was about eight years old.  I later visited there on business during my misspent youth as a wage worker.  And I was once even stranded overnight at the Miami International Airport Hotel after a delayed flight caused me to miss my connection to San Salvador.

To lessen the likelihood of any similar travel troubles, my family and I arrived a few days ahead of our cruise departure, giving us some time to sample Miami’s cultural treasures.

Day One — Vizcaya Museum & Gardens

Villa Vizcaya was the winter home of James Deering, an executive in his family’s Deering Harvester Company, which later merged with the McCormick Harvesting Machine Company to become the International Harvester Company.

The opulent Italian Renaissance property was built during the 1910s and is located in the Coconut Grove neighborhood on Biscayne Bay.  It reminded me of the Gilded Age cottages in Newport, Rhode Island.

Vizcaya has a robust history.  It has appeared in several movies, and former actors President Ronald Reagan and Pope John Paul II met at the estate in 1987.

Vizcaya’s extensive gardens are designed like those of France and Italy in the 17th and 18th centuries.  My favorite spot was the Orchidarium.

The mansion boasts 34 rooms.  There are few architectural elements I love more than a loggia, which is a room with one side that opens, usually to a garden or the water.  Vizcaya’s East Loggia reminded me of the similar room at The Breakers in Newport.

Vizcaya’s East Loggia features a model caravel hanging from the ceiling; Spain and Portugal commonly used this small sailing vessel during the 17th-19th centuries. Deering chose it as the symbol of the house to reflect his love of exploration.

But the caravel is not the most remarkable vessel at Vizcaya.  That would be the Barge.  The property’s limestone breakwater is designed in the shape of a boat, and Deering often used it for parties, with guests ferried out and back on a gondola.

Deering made sure his Barge parties were fun.  Dade County turned dry in 1913, seven years before Prohibition went national with the 18th Amendment.  Deering acquired and hid alcohol in defiance of the intrusive law.  The museum displays his bootlegging letters cryptically referring to alcohol as “comforters”, “quilts”, and “bed covers”.

After our day amid this spirited opulence, we went for a casual dinner at Berries in the Grove, where the surprise hit of the meal was the Nutella Pizza.

What to Know Before You Go to
Vizcaya Museum & Gardens

Vizcaya Museum & Gardens is located at 3251 South Miami Avenue in Coconut Grove.  Parking is complimentary.

There is a small Café and Shop across from the Orchidarium.

Wear layers and comfortable shoes.

Allow four to six hours.

The closest five-star hotel is the Four Seasons.

Day Two — Frost Science

The Phillip and Patricia Frost Museum of Science is housed in an enormous complex in downtown Miami’s Maurice A. Ferré Museum Park.

It has a Planetarium and exhibits on subjects ranging from flight to neurology.  The most intriguing exhibit when we were there was Bugs, an immersive experience where we wandered into pavilions resembling the habitats of different insects, like the orchid mantis.

But the Museum’s centerpiece is its three-level Aquarium.  At the Vista, the open-air top level, you can look down into the water and see sea life like stingrays and hammerhead sharks swimming.  There is also an aviary, with unique birds like Roseate Spoonbills.

At the Dive, the middle level, you can watch fish maneuver around coral and mangroves.  At the Deep, the lower level, you can recline on the carpeted floor beneath a 31-foot oculus lens and look up at the same sharks and rays.

After a long day of absorbing this scientific bounty, we crossed Route 1 for dinner at Pierogi One.  The service was quite good, and we enjoyed sitting outside in the comfortable weather.

The pierogis were delicious, but the surprise hit of the meal was zurek, a tangy soup made with Polish sausage, onion, and hard-boiled egg.

Afterwards, we headed back to Frost Science to enjoy the view from the building’s roof-top terrace.

We topped the day off by strolling through the Museum Park’s Dogs and Cats Walkway and Sculpture Garden, which features brightly painted aluminum statues of the domestic animals, nestled among palm trees, perennial flowers, and other South Florida plants.  But no orchids, or orchid mantises.

What to Know Before You Go to Frost Science

The Phillip and Patricia Frost Museum of Science is located at 1101 Biscayne Boulevard in the Maurice A. Ferré Museum Park in Downtown Miami.  There is an on-site garage as well as street parking.

The Food@Science café serves light bites and offers indoor and outdoor seating.  There is also a Science Store gift shop.

Wear durable clothes and comfortable shoes.

Allow four to six hours.

The closest five-star hotel is the InterContinental.

Continue your adventure in the Southeast:

• 24 Hours in New Orleans
• Ava Gardner Museum in Smithfield, North Carolina
• When to Visit Colonial Williamsburg

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The Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Hollywood, Florida, boasts a fabulous collection of music memorabilia, a lagoon-style pool area, and the world’s first guitar-shaped hotel building.

Staying there for two days before a cruise out of Fort Lauderdale, I opted for a spacious room in the Oasis Tower — which featured a close-up view of the more flamboyant Guitar Hotel.  The unusual building is designed to resemble two back-to-back Gibson Les Paul guitars.  During its nightly shows, colorful LED lights are choreographed to different songs, and six beams project at least 20,000 feet into the sky, evoking the strings of a guitar.  Ever since my first trip to Las Vegas, I’ve loved the sight of lit-up casino-hotels, but this is something spectacularly uncommon.

The property’s large casino has all the expected offerings — table games like Black Jack, glittering slot machines, and a poker room.  I had fun playing video poker in the non-smoking room.

The grounds are beautifully landscaped.  The enormous pool area boasts a bar and grill, well-appointed cabanas, and even paddle-boards and space to enjoy them.

There’s a broad range of bars and restaurants.  I enjoyed a surprisingly good steak Cobb salad at the Hard Rock Café.

The Rock Spa & Salon offers a variety of massages and other treatments.  Hard Rock Live is the property’s 7,000-seat theatre, where Billy Joel once had a residency.

But the highlight for lovers of cultural history is the music memorabilia.  Among the most meaningful items for me were:

Johnny Cash‘s custom-made Grammer acoustic guitar

Neil Diamond‘s 1956 Ford Thunderbird

Elvis Presley‘s Harley Davidson motorcycle

If you like to enjoy some cultural history along with your gaming, the Seminole Hard Rock Casino & Hotel in Hollywood is a fun place to explore.

* * *

Continue your adventure in the Southeast:

• Ava Gardner Museum in Smithfield, North Carolina
• Things to Do in Colonial Williamsburg
• Wentworth Mansion in Charleston, South Carolina

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Day One

Bureau of Engraving and Printing

We began our first day at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, where the U.S. Department of the Treasury makes paper money.  There’s a fun 45-minute tour where you get to watch from above while people on the job produce our currency.  There’s also a short introductory video and a visitor center with artifacts and displays about the history of American currency.

National Air and Space Museum

We headed over to the National Mall and the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum.  The main building houses a wonderful collection of historic aircraft, spacecraft, and artifacts that tell the story of aviation and space exploration from its humble beginnings to its latest achievements.

Highlights include a Wright Flyer, the Apollo 11 command module Columbia, and Neil Armstrong’s spacesuit.

As of this writing, the NASM is undergoing renovations.  Approximately half the Museum is open to the public.

National Gallery of Art

We crossed the Mall to one of my favorite museums.  The National Gallery of Art is home to a vast collection of masterpieces spanning centuries.

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Garden Café

We started with lunch at the fast-casual Garden Café.  I ordered a crustless quiche, which was delicious, although dwarfed by the backyard of arugula (and one rogue radicchio leaf) that filled most of the plate.

Paris 1874:  the Impressionist Moment

Partially sated, we started exploring one of the NGA’s special exhibitions — Paris 1874:  the Impressionist Moment.

1874 was a pivotal year for art in Paris.

The Paris Salon was the most influential art exhibition in the Western world.  Beginning in 1667, it brought together magnificent works in classical styles.  Hundreds of thousands of people came to see them.

But the Salon refused to exhibit more innovative works.  It rejected artists like Edgar Degas, Claude Monet, and Auguste Renoir.

So in 1874, these artists and others held their own exhibition, featuring 200 works in avant-garde styles.

It was a flop.  Only a few thousand people showed up.  Few bought anything.  Critics were harsh.

But the artists persevered, held more exhibitions over the years, and became known as the Impressionists.

Some of the hallmarks of Impressionism are nature scenes, depictions of ordinary life, vibrant colors, and visible brushstrokes.

“Paris 1874:  the Impressionist Moment” marks the 150th birthday of Impressionism.  It was curated in partnership with the Musée d’Orsay and features 130 works of well- and lesser-known Impressionists.

I think my favorite was Monet’s Fishing Boats Leaving the Harbor, Le Havre.

But it’s a tough choice.

The exhibition runs through January 2025.  It was crowded when we went on a Wednesday afternoon, but there was no wait to get in.

17th-Century Dutch and Flemish Paintings

Next we explored the NGA’s extensive collection of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings.

The 16th century was an eventful time.  Explorers sailed the globe, claiming western lands for European powers.  Martin Luther set off the Protestant Reformation by nailing his 95 theses to the door of the chapel at Wittenburg Castle in Germany in 1517.  And the Dutch Republic declared its independence from Spain in 1581.

Dutchmen formed the Dutch East India Company in 1602, one of the first publicly traded corporations in the world.  In 1621, they formed the Dutch West India Company.  These corporations helped make the Dutch Republic wealthy through global trade.

And this newfound wealth led to a proliferation of Dutch painting that moved away from the ornate grandeur of Baroque art.  The simpler style emphasized landscapes, marine scenes, still lifes, and historical depictions.  The NGA collection includes more than 150 of these works, by artists like Rembrant and Vermeer.

As usual, I can’t decide which is my favorite, but a prime contender is Rembrandt’s haunting The Mill.

Italian Renaissance Paintings and Sculptures

Our final stop at the NGA was the recently renovated 13th- to 16th-century Italian galleries, which house the NGA’s pride and joy:  Leonardo da Vinci‘s magnificent Ginevra de’ Benci.

It is the first of the artist’s four portraits of women.  Her inscrutable expression heralds his better-known Mona Lisa.

World War I Memorial

We headed to Pershing Park and the new World War I Memorial.  The Memorial’s centerpiece is a startlingly realistic bronze sculpture depicting “A Soldier’s Journey” through the Great War.

It begins with the figure saying good-bye to his daughter, follows him through the horrors of war, and ends with his reunion with her.  It is surrounded by a pool of water with an elevated viewing platform.

The Memorial also features a statue of U.S. Army Gen. John J. Pershing, who commanded the American Expeditionary Force during World War I, and a wall showing battle maps from the War.

Round Robin Bar at the Willard InterContinental

The World War I Memorial is just across from my favorite hotel in Washington.  The Willard InterContinental boasts a fabulous history:  Julia Ward Howe wrote “Battle Hymn of the Republic” there, and President Ulysses S. Grant drank whiskey and smoked cigars in its lobby.  So after such a full and fascinating day, we stopped in to its historic Round Robin Bar to relax over drinks.

Day Two

“Bond in Motion” at the International Spy Museum

We started our second day at the International Spy Museum, where “Bond in Motion” is a special exhibit with 17 vehicles from James Bond films. 

There are also some props and models and a few fun games.  It’s a stand-alone exhibit with separate tickets, meaning you don’t have to pay full admission for the Museum.  The exhibit is open through April 2025.  

Enid A. Haupt Garden

We headed back to the National Mall and crossed through the Enid A. Haupt Garden, a magnificently manicured oasis behind the Smithsonian Castle.  I used to stroll its brick pathways before my photography classes at the Smithsonian.

Ford’s Theatre

Our next main stop was Ford’s Theatre, where John Wilkes Booth fatally shot President Abraham Lincoln on April 14, 1865.

There’s an extensive museum underneath the theatre, with lots of exhibits on the Civil War and the assassination.  There are also interesting artifacts, including the Deringer pistol that Booth used to shoot Lincoln.

Next we went up to the theatre.  Ford’s is still an active theatre; I’ve seen 1776 and A Christmas Carol there.  And you can visit during the day, when there isn’t a performance playing, and see the bunting-draped, no-longer-used Presidential Box.

Petersen House

From the theatre, we walked across 10th Street to Petersen House, where President Lincoln died on April 15.  You can see a few rooms furnished with period pieces.  There is also an extensive museum with exhibits about John Wilkes Booth, the other conspirators, and Lincoln’s legacy.

Old Post Office Tower at the Waldorf Astoria

Our next stop was the Old Post Office Tower, one of the tallest structures in Washington.

The Old Post Office has a long and intriguing history.  The Romanesque Revival building was completed in 1899.

It housed the U.S. Postal Department headquarters, the Washington, D.C., post office, and the Dead Letters Museum — which maintained a range of artifacts including a collection of undeliverable items, a set of Benjamin Franklin’s account books, and a lock of hair from Charles Guiteau, who assassinated President James Garfield.

Throughout much of the 20th century, the building housed offices belonging to government agencies, including the Federal Bureau of Investigation.  But by the late 1970s, it was in need of major renovation.

President Ronald Reagan rededicated the renovated Old Post Office building in 1983.  In addition to federal offices, it now housed restaurants and retail shops.  It became known as the Old Post Office Pavilion and briefly appeared in the Cold War thriller No Way Out.

Shortly before becoming President, Donald Trump developed the Federal Triangle property into the Trump International Hotel Washington D.C., which opened in 2016 and closed in 2022.  It is now the Waldorf Astoria Washington D.C., another one of my favorite hotels in the District.

The Tower houses ten change-ringing bells.  They are replicas of the bells at Westminster Abbey in London and were cast at the Whitechapel Foundry, which also made the Liberty Bell.  They ring officially on federal holidays and other days of national significance and for practice on Thursday evenings.

My companion and I rode elevators up to its 12th-storey observation deck and took in 360-degree views through wired windows. Sites you can spot include:

• the Capitol
• the Pentagon
• the White House
• the Supreme Court
• the Lincoln Memorial
• the Washington Monument

National Museum of American History

We headed back to the Mall and the National Museum of American History.  We spent some time reliving the past in the “Entertainment Nation” exhibit which features lots of familiar pop-culture artifacts, including:

• the directional signpost from M*A*S*H
• the Bunkers’ chairs from All in the Family
• R2-D2 and C3PO costumes from Star Wars
• Dorothy’s ruby slippers from The Wizard of Oz

We also explored “The American Presidency” and “The First Ladies“, which features the presidents’ wives’ Inaugural ballgowns.  We peeked into the kitchen from Julia Child‘s home in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

And we visited one of my favorite exhibits — the gunboat Philadelphia.

On October 11, 1776, nine American vessels, under the command of Brigadier General Benedict Arnold, fought a better-armed British fleet in a naval battle on Lake Champlain.

After three days of fire, the British had mostly destroyed the small American squadron and taken control of the beautiful, and strategic, body of water nestled among Vermont, New York, and Québec.  Among the lost American vessels was the 54-foot gunboat Philadelphia, sunk by a 24-pound British cannonball.

In 1935, she was found at the bottom of the Lake, surprisingly intact.  Today she’s on display at the Museum, along with the cannonball that sunk her.

Elephant & Castle

After this full day, we headed back toward Federal Triangle for dinner.  Elephant & Castle is a “British pub” chain based in Canada.  We were quickly seated at a booth featuring images of Admiral Horatio Nelson’s flagship Victory.  We split an order of poutine, which was delicious with rich flavorful gravy.

I ordered the “wee pie flight”, basically sampler sizes of four pot pies:

• steak & mushroom — mostly mushrooms, but the gravy was good
• chicken — good but fairly standard
• shepherd’s — good and topped with yummy mashed potatoes
• cheesy leek & potato — my favorite, rich and creamy

We split a bread pudding for dessert, which not surprisingly was also yummy.

It was Thursday, so upon stepping outside after dinner, we capped off our two-day adventure with the tintinnabulation of the Old Post Office Tower bells.

* * *

Continue your adventure in Washington, D.C.:

• George Mason Memorial
• National Museum of African American History and Culture
• World War II Memorial

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Christmastime in Williamsburg is a sensual feast of leaf-strewn brick walkways, period music, hearty food, creative decorations, and crisp air wafting with the mingled aromas of evergreens and burning fires.

I try to go for at least a day every December.  Where else can you celebrate the holidays with fireworks, a Palace concert, and dinner with George and Martha Washington?

The purpose of this post is to help you plan your own colonial Christmas.

The heart of the Christmas season in Colonial Williamsburg is the special programming, the holiday events that occur only during the five-week period.  Highlights include:

Thanksgiving Proclamation

Step back to 1789, and listen as President Washington proclaims a non-sectarian day of “public thanksgiving and prayer”.

Lighting of the Cressets

Cressets are the earliest known form of public street lighting.  They’re metal baskets, perched atop poles, filled with wood chips.  At sunset, the wood chips are set aflame as music plays on Duke of Gloucester Street.

A Celebration of the Yule Log

Music accompanies a burning Yule log as it travels by wagon down Duke of Gloucester Street.  By tradition, lighting a Yule log may symbolize the birth of Jesus or His triumph over sin.

Grand Illuminations

In the 18th century, illuminations marked major events such as the birthday of a reigning sovereign, military victories, or the arrival of a new colonial governor with fireworks and gun salutes.  On Saturdays in early to mid-December, Colonial Williamsburg continues the tradition with musical performances on multiple stages throughout the brick streets and fireworks displays from the Capitol building and the Governor’s Palace.

Walking Tours

• During the Christmas Decorations tour, a guide describes the materials and techniques used to create the traditional decorations on display around the Capital.
• During Talk of the Town | Christmastide, an 18th-century Williamsburg resident guides visitors through the Capital and discusses holiday traditions and the news of the day.

Theatrical Performances

• In Merriment and Measles, an outbreak of the infectious disease mars George and Martha Washington’s first anniversary on Twelfth Night in 1760.
• In A Christmas Remembered, a “Nation Builder” shares Christmas memories and hopes for the New Year.
• In A Soldier’s Christmas, James Innes, a colonel in the victorious Continental Army, tries to come to grips with the past in order to shape the future.
• In Of Christmas Past, a British servant in Virginia recalls the Christmas customs and traditions he left behind in the mother country.

Music

Music was an important facet of 18th-century life, especially during the Christmas season.  There are lots of concerts at the Courthouse and the Governor’s Palace.

Firing of the Christmas Guns

Gunfire expresses joy and celebration on Christmas Eve.

Special Dining

There are lots of places to eat in Williamsburg, including historic taverns and hotel restaurants.  These venues offer several special events during Christmastime, including:

• Thanksgiving Dinner at Christiana Campbell’s Tavern, the King’s Arms Tavern, Shields Tavern, the Williamsburg Inn, and the Williamsburg Lodge
• Holiday Tea at the Williamsburg Inn
• Wine Dinner with a Nation Builder at the King’s Arms Tavern
• Grand Illumination Dinner at Christiana Campbell’s Tavern, the King’s Arms Tavern, and the Williamsburg Lodge
• Christmas Eve Brunch with Santa at the Williamsburg Inn
• Feast of the Seven Fishes at the Williamsburg Inn
• Christmas Dinner at Christiana Campbell’s Tavern, the King’s Arms Tavern, Shields Tavern, the Williamsburg Inn, and the Williamsburg Lodge
• New Year’s Eve Dinner at the King’s Arms Tavern and the Williamsburg Inn
• New Year’s Eve Gala at the Williamsburg Inn

Colonial Williamsburg is popular during Christmastime, and grows more so later in December.  I recommend going early in the season and making your plans as soon as possible.  Please note that many of the events highlighted here require special tickets, beyond your general admission passes to Colonial Williamsburg.  For more information, please check out Colonial Williamsburg’s holiday planner.

And don’t forget to wish the Washingtons a Merry Christmas!

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Mazatlán, Sinaloa

Sinaloa is a long narrow state across the Sea of Cortez from Baja California Sur.

Sinaloa’s best-known resort city is Mazatlan, which features several beaches and lots of mid-scale waterfront hotels.  At more than five miles, its Malecón is one of the longest in the world.

The city offers plenty to intrigue cultural-history buffs.

Old Mazatlán historic district boasts the 19th-century Basilica of the Immaculate Conception and Teatro Angela Peralto.

The Gran Acuario Mazatlán Mar de Cortes is the largest aquarium in Mexico.  The Museo Arqueológico Mazatlán displays pre-colonial artifacts like pottery and jewelry.

I opted for a salsa class at the mid-scale Royal Villas Resort.  Over plentiful margaritas, we learned how to make six varieties of salsa, using a ceramic molcajete.  It was fun, though I prefer the sensual feel of my own stone molcajete.

Back on board Volendam, we enjoyed a splendid sunset, a quiet evening, and good night’s sleep as we cruised toward our next port.

Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco

Jalisco is a sprawling state mid-way down the coast.  Its main claim to fame is that it’s the birthplace of tequila, which was first distilled from the blue agave plant during the 16th century near the modern-day town of Tequila, about 30 miles northwest of Guadalajara.

Jalisco’s best-known resort city is Puerto Vallarta, which began life as a remote fishing village.  Then in the early 1960s, director John Huston selected the spot as the setting for The Night of the Iguana, a film based on the Tennessee Williams play, which was based on his short story.

The movie has an all-star cast, including:  Richard Burton, then married to his first wife, actress Sybil Williams Burton; Deborah Kerr, married to her second husband, screenwriter Peter Viertel, and Ava Gardner, divorced from her third husband, singer Frank Sinatra, but continuing an on-again/off-again relationship with him.  Also in Puerto Vallarta was Elizabeth Taylor, then married to her fourth husband, singer Eddie Fisher, but continuing the torrid affair she’d begun a year earlier with Richard Burton while filming Cleopatra.

The obvious gossip fodder lured journalists from around the world — and transformed Puerto Vallarta into a glam destination.

The Burtons divorced in 1963.  Elizabeth Taylor divorced Eddie Fisher in 1964.  Ten days later, she and Richard Burton married at the Ritz-Carlton Montreal.

In 1966, Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor a hillside villa with an ocean view in Puerto Vallarta.  Then the couple purchased a similar property across a small street for him.  They built a bridge to connect these his-and-hers villas.

The couple divorced in 1974, remarried in 1975, and redivorced in 1976.  Later that year, Elizabeth Taylor married Senator John Warner of Virginia, and Richard Burton married model Suzy Miller.

Richard Burton died in 1984; Elizabeth Taylor died in 2011.  For a time after their final divorce and his death, she had continued to visit their home in Puerto Vallarta, but she sold it in 1990.  Today it is the boutique hotel Casa Kimberly.

John Huston also bought a home in Puerto Vallarta.  A statue honors him for his film’s contributions to the city.  His children Anjelica and Danny founded the Puerto Vallarta Film Festival.

My own day in Puerto Vallarta began with a lesson in how to taste tequila:

• Hold the glass up and look at the color of the tequila.  The deeper the color, the longer the aging process, and the more complex the flavor.
• Gently swirl the tequila in the glass.  Thin tracks of tequila, called legs, should slowly flow down the sides of the glass.  The longer the legs take, the longer the aging process, because the consistency of the tequila is a little thicker.
• Bring the rim of the glass to your nose and smell the tequila, slowly raising your nose from the bottom rim through the middle of the glass to the top rim.  The aromas should evolve from deeper to lighter.
• Inhale a deep breath through your nose; take a small sip of the tequila; let it coat your palate; swallow; exhale from your mouth.  You may notice flavors that are floral, fruity, spicy, and woody.

Then we headed to La Dulce Vista, a midscale ranch, for another culinary class, where we made beef tostadas and red enchiladas, as well as salsa and guacamole, again, this time in stone molcajetes.

From there we headed back into central Puerto Vallarta and the Evolucion Silver Jewelry shop.  The designs are hand-made on-site and very unique.  I was hoping to purchase a turquoise bracelet.  Unfortunately, every time I picked one up to look at it, a male employee pounced to fasten it around my wrist.  He followed me around the shop and made me feel so stalked that I left without buying anything.

We also explored the Church of our Lady of Guadelupe, a 20th-century neoclassical structure with a baroque crown atop her bell tower.

The sanctuary inside is bright and colorful.  Outdoors is a courtyard with statues representing prominent Catholic figures.

We finished up our day in Puerto Vallarta with a stroll along the Malecón and made it back on board Volendam in time for bar trivia at Mix.

Zihuatanejo, Guerrero

Guerrero is a small state in southern Mexico.  It has held a special place in my heart since I was nine years old, because it was there that I developed my taste for premium travel, when my family stayed at the Acapulco Princess hotel.

Volendam stopped north of Acapulco, at Zihuatanejo, the fishing village to which the main characters in The Shawshank Redemption escaped.  Today it’s known for its bay and its beaches.

I opted for an archeological shore excursion.  It would be the worst shore excursion I have ever taken on any cruise.

The day began inauspiciously when a Volendam crew member announced over the ship’s public-address system that our tour busses would be parked about a half-mile from the pier.  This isn’t a big deal to me, because I like to walk, but it was irritating that port officials hadn’t notified Holland America about the surprising circumstance sooner.

I hopped into a tender and gathered on the pier with my day’s companions to be escorted to our bus.  It was miserably hot, and mariachi music was blasting, and there was a speaker attached to the only shelter, so I had to alternate between risking vertigo and heat exhaustion.  After some time, we followed our tour guide to the bus, which was minimally air conditioned.

Our main destination was the ancient site of Xihuacan, also known as La Chole.  Our tour guide spoke decent English, but with a thick accent, and the acoustics were challenging, but from what I can gather:  The site was occupied by at least three different cultures over a period of more than 3,000 years, likely including the Aztecs.  The last ancient culture may have been destroyed by a tsunami c. 300 A.D.  Much of the area is now inhabited by small farmers.  Artifacts were discovered in the 1930s, but serious excavations did not begin until the early 2000s.

We arrived at a small museum without air conditioning.  It displays a scale model of the site and typical pre-Columbian artifacts like art and pottery.

Next we rode to the ball court.  The Mesoamerican ball game was an ancient sport likely connected with religious rituals, including human sacrifice.  The ball was made of rubber and could weigh as much as nine pounds.  The rules are uncertain today, but the game appears to share similarities with soccer and racketball.  The ball court is long, narrow, and sunken, with sloping side walls and an upright end wall made of stone, and an open end zone.

We boarded the bus again, but unfortunately the driver had parked in such a way as to leave himself unable to maneuver his way out.  He tried backing up for a bit, but ultimately had to get out of the bus and prevail upon a local farmer to open his gates so that the driver could turn the bus around.

Shortly after this minor mishap, we arrived at what was probably the site of human sacrifices.  The victims could have included losers of the ball game, or perhaps even the winners, as it may have been considered an honor.

We climbed stairs beside a pyramid up to a courtyard-like open area with stone gutters sunken in the grass.  Our tour guide explained that these gutters were likely to accommodate the blood flow from the sacrifices.

I preferred the lovely view I saw after turning away from the grim site.

The tour was supposed to conclude with a glitzier view:  that of the seaside resort city of Ixtapa.  Unfortunately, we were far behind schedule and already in danger of being late for Volendam‘s departure, so the group voted to skip the last stop.  Even so, we were still on the bus at the time of our ship’s scheduled departure.

A main draw of official shore excursions is that the ship will wait for passengers whose return is delayed — or, if it can’t, because for example there isn’t enough fuel or time to reach the next port-of-call, the cruise line will arrange and cover lodging and transportation back to the ship, wherever she is next docked.  This gave me peace of mind — until Zihautanejo.  The ineptitude that led to our situation left me deeply unsettled by the thought of my safety being in the hands of the people responsible for our group’s predicament.  I’d have felt more secure on my own.

Fortunately, Holland America handled it well. Volendam waited for us.  When our bus arrived at its final stop, half a mile from the pier, there were vans ready for passengers who felt unable to hoof their way back.  I joined the group following our tour guide on foot.  Along the way, he seemed to know everyone in Zihuatanejo, greeting people with a hearty Hola! and a quick clasp of the hands.  It didn’t really slow our progress, but it also didn’t convey a sense of seriousness about the situation, and left me with the conclusion that he’s one of those mediocre people who coast through life on affability.

A tender was waiting for us when we reached the pier.  Several people spent the ride complaining about the experience, and I even overheard someone the next morning at breakfast in the Lido Market telling a companion about the bus driver’s mistake at the ball court.  I didn’t make a formal complaint, but I suspect quite a few others did, because the next day I received a letter in my stateroom apologizing for the poor excursion and issuing me a 20 percent refund for its cost.  And I notice that Holland America’s current Mexican Riviera cruises do not call at Zihuatanejo.

Manzanillo, Colima

Colima is a small state between Jalisco and Guerrero.  Manzanillo is one of Mexico’s busiest ports, because it’s where goods headed to Mexico City enter the country.  The city boasts lots of beachfront resorts, including Las Hadas, which was featured in the movie 10.

My companions and I decided to explore on our own.  Our first stop was the Mercado Municipal, an enormous city marketplace; it smelled fabulous thanks to all the fresh fruit.

Next we visited Iguanario Archundia, a small zoo with chickens, raccoons, and of course lots of iguanas.  But we saw even more of the distinctive reptiles in the trees just outside the site.

We stopped for a light lunch at El Social, a dive bar near the pier.  My companions ordered beers; I opted for a margarita, which was quite good.  Our waiter gave us complimentary ceviche, with tostadas and saltines, and it was also very good.

Finally we went for a short stroll along the city’s small Malecón, savoring our last moments in Mexico.

The next time we stepped off the ship would be three days later, upon our return to San Diego.

The post Four Days on Mexico’s Western Mainland Coast first appeared on Sancerres at Sunset.

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My travel companions and I were at the bow on Verandah Deck 6 of Holland America‘s ms Volendam.  Just above us at the Bridge on Navigation Deck 7, cruise director Daniel Edward narrated our brief tour of Bahia Magdalena.

Bahia Magdalena is a long bay off the coast of Baja California Sur, a state covering the southern area of Mexico‘s Baja California, the peninsula immediately south of the American state of California.  The bay is sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by two barrier islands — Isla Magdalena and Isla Santa Margarita.

Volendam had been cruising south from San Diego for two days.  She’s a smaller ship than ms Nieuw Statendam, on which we’ve enjoyed two Caribbean cruises, but she had two notable advantages over the larger vessel:  first, a big fabulous library with lots and lots of books to explore and, second, the ability to maneuver in and out of tight waterways like Bahia Magdalena.  And so we happily spent a couple of hours at her bow watching for marine life to leap up and out of the blue waters.

When the ship sailed southward out of the bay, we headed back inside to enjoy quiet evening.  After a good night’s sleep, we arrived in the morning at our first port of call.

Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas is a city at the southernmost tip of Baja California.  It doesn’t have a deep-water pier, so we had to ride a tender, one of Volendam‘s lifeboats temporarily repurposed to ferry us to dry land.  From there, we boarded another boat for a morning of more whale-watching.

The geology of the area is stunning.  Granite rocks soar up from the waters.  Most distinctive is the Arch, which was formed by natural erosion at the spot where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortéz, the long gulf that separates Baja California from mainland Mexico, named for Hernán Cortéz, the Spanish explorer who conquered the Aztec Empire during the early 16th century.  And we saw more whales.

After the boat ride, we headed into town to find a spot for lunch.  We chose John’s Place, a crowded pub with good chips and fresh tortillas, guacamole, and pico de gallo.

Then we strolled back toward our ship, through the touristy town, dodging vendors asking us to purchase items like sunglasses, silver/turquoise jewelry, and our photo with an iguana.

We spent another quiet evening aboard Volendam, enjoying bar trivia at Mix, a lounge on Upper Promenade Deck 5, and a spectacular sunset.  We slept well as the ship sailed northward up the Sea of Cortéz toward our next stop.

La Paz

Technically, Volendam didn’t dock at La Paz, because the city doesn’t have a large port.  We docked at Pichilingue, about 12 miles north of La Paz, and boarded a bus for our day in the capital city of Baja California Sur.

Spanish conquistadores landed at modern-day La Paz in 1535.  There’s plenty for today’s travellers to explore.  The Regional Museum of Anthropology and History introduces visitors to the Baja Peninsula, from its prehistoric indigenous cultures to the Mexican Revolution, a complicated series of armed conflicts and coups that transformed the country from a dictatorship to a constitutional republic during the early 20th century.  A Whale Museum teaches about the different species of whales that migrate to Mexico’s Pacific Coast every winter, as well as sharks, sea lions, turtles, and other marine life.

My companions and I opted for El Serpentario:  Wild Animal Rehabilitation Center and Cactus Nursery.  Our visit began with an engaging presentation of some of the species native to the area, including snakes, spiders, and an earthworm lizard.

Then we roamed around on our own, finding fauna like a magnificently patterned tortoise.  We also visited the aviary, and were swarmed by dozens of small colorful birds.  And the cacti were spectacular.

From El Serpentario, we rode a bus back to the center of La Paz.  We stopped for lunch at El Bismark-cito.  This open-air restaurant sits across from the beach, is known for its fish tacos, and displays a painting of the German battleship Bismarck on one of its brick walls.

After lunch, we strolled uphill to visit Our Lady of Peace Cathedral.  The limestone church was built during the 19th century.  Its neoclassical exterior boasts beautiful twin bell towers.  The interior features baroque altarpieces, stained-glass windows, and lovely flowers.

After exploring the cathedral we headed back toward the beach for a walk on the malecón, a paved promenade along the waterfront.

Then we caught a bus for the ride back to Pichilingue and Volendam, where we enjoyed another lovely evening.  We played trivia again, caught a splendid moonrise, and enjoyed a lovely piano/violin duet featuring one of my favorite pieces, Maurice Ravel’s Bolero.  As we slept, Volendam cruised north toward our last port in Baja California Sur.

Loreto

Loreto was my favorite port of the cruise.  It was the least touristy of the Baja cities we visited.  And it has intriguing colonial history.

During 1768-77, Loreto was the original capital of the Spanish Province of Las Californias, which included Baja California, the modern-day United States of California, Nevada, and Utah, and parts of today’s Arizona, Colorado, and Wyoming.

The cultural highlight of the city is Our Lady of Loreto Mission.  During the late 17th through the early 19th centuries, Spanish priests founded dozens of missions throughout Baja and the modern-day state of California.  The purpose of these missions was to convert the native inhabitants to Christianity.

Our Lady of Loreto is the first of these missions to last.  It was established in 1697 with a small chapel.  A still-standing stone church was completed in 1744; its off-center bell tower was added during the 1950s.  There is also a courtyard.

The mission is the first stop on El Camino Real, the road that connected all the missions in Baja and the modern-day state of California, from Loreto to Sonoma.

Its storage building now houses the Museum of Baja California Missions.  It displays more than 300 artifacts related to daily life in colonial Baja, including tools, saddles, and a rudimentary sugar mill.

After exploring the mission and museum, we strolled back to the beach, where we saw lots of shore birds.

Then we headed for lunch at El Zopilote.  This brew pub was the site of the best meal of the cruise.  We had cochinita-pibil tacos, and they were fabulous.  Cochinita pibil is a Yucatan dish of marinated and slow-roasted suckling pig.  The chips and guacamole were also good.  And I washed it down with blood-orange beer.

On our way back to the port, we stopped at the City Hall, where the atrium is decorated with colorful murals depicting people of the past, like a native princess.

We did have one more minor adventure.  As we rode in the tender back to Volendam, the sea was rough, and all of a sudden a big wave drenched several passengers.  But we made it safely back in plenty of time to dry off before trivia.

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San Diego Bay is a fabulous place for maritime-history buffs.  I spent my last day there before boarding a cruise to Mexico exploring the U.S.S. Midway Museum and the Maritime Museum of San Diego.

U.S.S. Midway Museum

The U.S.S. Midway was a 20th-century aircraft carrier.

Midway History

Six months after the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor pulled the United States into World War II, the two nations fought a naval battle at Midway, an atoll about 1,000 miles from Hawaii in the North Pacific.

The Battle of Midway was a rout, and one of the most far-reaching naval engagements since Actium.  The U.S. Navy sank a whopping four Japanese aircraft carriers — which had all participated in the attack on Pearl Harbor.  We also sank their heavy cruiser Mikuma.

Japan hid the defeat from its people and went on to build six new aircraft carriers over the next three years.  But it never recovered.

On August 8, 1945, the United States dropped an atomic bomb on Hiroshima.  Two days later, the Soviet Union declared war on Japan.  The next day, we bombed Nagasaki.  Less than one month after that, on September 2, Japan surrenderred aboard the U.S.S. Missouri.  World War II was over.

In the three years following the Battle of Midway, the United States would build 17 aircraft carriers.

The largest would be named Midway, after the extraordinary battle.  But she never served during World War II, as she was commissioned in Norfolk, Virginia, on September 10, 1945, eight days after the Japanese surrender.  At the time, she was the largest warship in the world, and the first U.S. carrier too big to pass through the Panama Canal.

As its reward for helping defeat Japan, as well as Germany, the Soviet Union was given control of a large swath of Europe and Asia, which became known as the East Bloc.  But by 1947, the Soviets’ expansionist nature gravely concerned President Harry S Truman, who pledged U.S. support for democracies threatened by totalitarian take-overs.  This became known as the Truman Doctrine.  It marked the beginning of the Cold War, the decades-long tension between the United States and the Soviet Union, dotted with proxy hot wars in Korea, Vietnam, and elsewhere.  America and our allies won the Cold War in 1991, thanks mainly to the vision and leadership of President Ronald Reagan, with significant support from U.K. Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher and Pope John Paul II.

The Midway operated throughout the Cold War.  Her pilots shot down the first and last MiGs of the Vietnam war, and she led the evacuation of Saigon.  She also served as flagship of Persian Gulf air operations during Operation Desert Storm.

The U.S.S. Midway was decommissioned in San Diego on April 11, 1992, after 47 years of service.

Things to See aboard the Midway

Today the U.S.S. Midway is a fascinating museum floating in San Diego Bay.  The tour is self-guided.  There is an informative audio guide included with your admission ticket; you may use your own earbuds if you wish.

The museum can be divided into three sections:

Hangar Deck

You enter on the Hangar Deck, which not surprisingly houses several aircraft.  It also has a short video about the Battle of Midway.  There are also flight simulators you can play.  The Café 41 restaurant and Jet Express to-go serve lunch items like salads and sandwiches.  You can purchase souvenirs at the Jet Shop.

Below Deck

Below Deck was the most interesting part of the museum to me.  This is where you learn about daily life aboard the enormous carrier.  You’ll see the sleeping quarters, the chow line, the galley, the barber shop, the laundry, the sick bay, and the brig (jail).  It’s a fascinating look at how quotidian needs are met at sea.  There are lots of docents to answer your questions.

Flight Deck

The Flight Deck is open-air and offers spectacular views of the water and the San Diego skyline.  It holds lots of aircraft, and you can climb aboard some of them.

Maritime Museum of San Diego

The Maritime Museum maintains nine historic vessels floating in San Diego Bay.  A regular admission ticket gives you access to seven of them for a self-guided tour:

Berkeley

The first vessel you step aboard is the 1898 steam ferry Berkeley.  She was the first steel-hulled, double-ended, propeller-driven ferryboat to operate in San Francisco Bay.  She helped evacuate the city after the 1906 earthquake, transporting refugees across the Bay to Oakland.

She’s the largest vessel at the Museum.  She houses several exhibits, including a Model Gallery.  You can also poke around her engine room.  The passenger area brings the Victorian Era back to life with its elegant wooden benches and tables.

The Maritime Museum acquired her in 1973.

U.S.S. Dolphin

You step down a ladder into the 1968 submarine Dolphin.  She holds several records, including operating depth and torpedo-launch depth.  She’s tiny and cramped, so I didn’t linger long, but she provides a rare glimpse at submarine life and operations.  The Maritime Museum acquired her in 2008.

Medea

Next is the 1904 steam-powered yacht Medea.  A yacht is a large pleasure vessel with at least one sleeping cabin.

The Medea has a fascinating history.  She was built for William Macalister Hall, who also owned Torrisdale Castle in Scotland.  During World War I, the French Navy purchased her and converted her to a gunboat and used her as a convoy escort protecting French sailing ships.

During World War II, Britain’s Royal Navy used her as a barrage-balloon vessel at the mouth of the River Thames in London.  A barrage balloon was a hydrogen-filled device that pulled up steel cables as it rose into the air.  The cables protected an area from air attacks, such as by dive bombers and cruise missiles.  The British used nearly 3,000 barrage balloons during World War II.

Later in the War, she served as an accommodation ship housing Norwegian Navy commando officers off Scotland.  After the War, she became a pleasure vessel again.  She was donated to the Museum in the early 1970s.

She’s a beautiful steel vessel furnished with teak and oak and laden with elegant comforts.

San Salvador

Next you’ll come to a replica of the San Salvador, a 1542 galleon.  A galleon was a large, multi-decked sailing vessel used primarily by Spain during the 16th to 18th centuries.  As a typical galleon, the San Salvador has three masts.  Her fore- and main-masts are square-rigged.  The mizzen-mast is lateen-rigged.

The San Salvador was the flagship of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, the first European to lead an expedition exploring the coast of the area now called California.  His party of more than 170 people set sail from the port of Navidad, near modern-day Manzanillo, Mexico, on June 27, 1542, with three vessels.  On September 28, they sailed into San Diego Bay, which Cabrillo called “a closed and very good port”.  He claimed the surrounding land for Spain.  The expedition continued northward, but soon sought refuge from winter weather in the Channel Islands off the coast of Los Angeles.  Cabrillo was mortally wounded in a skirmish there with a native tribe and died on January 3, 1543.

The replica was built in 2015, based on research in the fields of maritime archaeology and Iberian maritime history.  She was my favorite of all the vessels at the Museum.  She offers a rare feel for life at sea during the Age of Exploration.  The Museum also offers sailing trips aboard the San Salvador.

Californian

Next is the Californian, a replica of an 1847 revenue cutter, the C.W. Lawrence.  During the Gold Rush, revenue cutters patrolled the coastline, looking for smugglers and tax and duty evaders and responding to disasters at sea.

The Californian is a topsail schooner.  A schooner is a sailing vessel with two or more masts which are rigged fore-and-aft.  A topsail schooner has a square topsail on the fore-mast.  Like the Californian, she may also have a topgallant sail above the topsail.

The Californian was built in 1984.  The Museum also provides sailing trips on the schooner.

H.M.S. Surprise

Next is H.M.S. Surprise, a replica of the 18th-century British Royal Navy sixth-rate ship Rose.  During the Age of Sail, the term ship meant something more precise than it does in modern usage.  A full-rigged ship was a sailing vessel with three or more square-rigged masts.  During the 17th century, the Royal Navy devised a rating system to classify its ships by size and number of cannon, referred to as guns.  Ships were rated first- to sixth-.  Fifth- and sixth-rate ships were primarily frigates.  A frigate was a fast warship with one gun deck and at least 20 cannon.

The replica was built in 1970.  20th-Century Fox purchased and modified the ship and rechristened her as the H.M.S. Surprise for the excellent 2003 film Master and Commander:  the Far Side of the World, based on the novels of Patrick O’Brian. The Maritime Museum acquired her in 2004.

Star of India

The last vessel to board is the Star of India.  She began life in 1863 as the full-rigged ship Euterpe.  In 1901, she was rigged down to a barque, meaning she now carried fore-and-aft sails on her mizzen-mast.  This sail plan requires less manpower than full rigging.

She has a rich history of making trade voyages to India and later carrying emigrants from England, Ireland, and Scotland to New Zealand.  Over the years, she faced threats on the seas ranging from cyclone to a mutiny.

The Maritime Museum acquired her in the 1960s.  There is lots to explore aboard the barque about her history and the Age of Sail.

The Maritime Museum also has two boats that are not part of the regular tour but are available for cruises in the Bay:

Pilot Boat

A maritime pilot guides a vessel in or out of an especially tight or tricky waterway, like a harbor or a river mouth.  The pilot boards the vessel and helps the crew navigate through the waterway.  He does not take command of the vessel, except at the Panama Canal.  The boat that the pilot arrives and departs on is called a pilot boat.

The 1914 Pilot boat was donated to the Maritime Museum in 1996.  She’s the oldest wooden pilot boat in the country.  She still occasionally ferries harbor pilots to and from historic vessels entering or leaving San Diego Bay.

PCF 816 Swift Boat

The U.S. Navy used Patrol Craft Fast vessels during the Vietnam War.  These so-called Swift Boats conducted operations ranging from blocking supplies on their way to the communist Viet Cong to transporting SEAL teams.  The Maritime Museum acquired PCF 816 in 2011.  She is considered the last fully intact vessel of her type.

All in all, it was a wonderful day spent floating from era to fascinating era of maritime history.

* * *

Continue your adventure in the Southwest:

• Equinox in Scottsdale
• Resorts World Las Vegas
• Texas Road Trip

The post A Day along San Diego Bay first appeared on Sancerres at Sunset.

I was planning to enjoy the day at Balboa Park.  The sprawling urban oasis boasts lots of museums, gardens and trails, and the San Diego Zoo.  It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  A cultural-history buff could spend days exploring Balboa Park.  I recommend planning to visit two or three of the ticketed venues per day.

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But first, some background:  In 1904, the United States took over construction of the Panama Canal, which would be completed ten years later.  This 20th-century engineering marvel allows vessels to cross from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean without having to sail all the way around South America.  San Diego is the first U.S. port for vessels sailing north from the western side of the Canal.

In celebration of the Canal’s opening, San Diego held a Panama-California Exposition in Balboa Park.  The Park is named after Vasco Núñez de Balboa, the Spanish explorer who saw the Pacific Ocean from a mountaintop on the isthmus of Panama in 1513.  The Exposition opened in 1915 and became a two-year event featuring amusement rides, an ostrich farm, and a replica of the Panama Canal.

Lots of new structures were built for the Exposition.  Their Spanish Colonial Revival design celebrates San Diego’s history and culture.  This architectural style’s characteristic design elements include asymmetrical shapes, courtyards, small balconies, Roman arcades, clay tile, and stucco finishes.  Many of the structures are still standing, and they give Balboa Park its unique look and vibe.

I have visited Balboa Park several times, most recently during my pre-cruise stay in San Diego.  Here are 21 highlights for history and culture lovers:

Cabrillo Bridge

Cabrillo Bridge is the main entry way into Balboa Park.  It is located on El Prado, the main boulevard through the Park.  The multiple-arched Bridge was built in 1914 for the Panama-California Exposition.  You may cross on foot or by car.  It offers a fabulous view of the San Diego skyline.  It is named for Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, the Spanish explorer credited with discovering San Diego Bay.

Plaza de Panama

The Plaza de Panama is the bustling heart of Balboa Park.  You will easily reach it by following El Prado into the Park.  It has a beautiful fountain and plenty of places to sit for bit and enjoy the open air and surrounding architecture.

Visitors Center

The Visitors Center is located in the House of Hospitality, about 100 feet from the Plaza de Panama fountain.  Here you can find information about the Park’s many attractions and amenities, pick up maps, and book tours.  There is also a gift shop.

Walking Tours

The best way to learn a new place is on foot.  There is an overview tour at 11 a.m. every Tuesday and on the second, fourth, and fifth Fridays of the month.  Tours are complimentary and leave from the Visitor Center.  You may also request a custom tour.

Pan American Plaza

This large open space is surrounded by several Park attractions.  It is about 1,000 feet from the Plaza de Panama.

Spreckels Organ Pavilion

The Spreckels Organ was built for the Panama-California Exposition.  It is the largest outdoor pipe organ in the world.  Its Pavilion hosts daily concerts at 6:30 p.m.

On July 27, 1915, former President Theodore Roosevelt gave a speech at the Pavilion.  He praised the Park’s uncommon architecture and expressed hopes that San Diego would keep the new buildings long beyond the Exposition.

The Spreckels Organ Pavilion is located between the Plaza de Panama and the Pan American Plaza.

San Diego Zoo

The world-renowned, open-air San Diego Zoo is home to thousands of animals from hundreds of species and sub-species, including elephants, giraffes, cheetahs, leopards, tigers, and reptiles.  It hosts the largest koala colony outside Australia.  The Zoo also boasts a botanical garden and an arboretum.  You may take a bus tour of the Zoo and/or ride the “Skyfari” gondola above it.  It’s one of the best zoos I’ve visited.  Tickets are required.

Balboa Park Carousel

Park Boulevard at Zoo Plaza

This century-old classic merry-go-round features 52 hand-carved animals to ride, including horses, giraffes, zebras, ostriches, cats, frogs, and dragons.  It’s located outside the Zoo.  Tickets are required.

Old Globe Theatre

1363 Old Globe Way

This structure is modelled after the Globe Theatre in London.  It presents programs ranging from the Shakespearean plays to the film adaptation of Dr. Seuss‘s How the Grinch Stole Christmas.  During a 1983 visit with Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II unveiled its sculpture of William Shakespeare.  Show tickets are required.

Fleet Science Center

1875 El Prado

This science museum has exhibits on subjects ranging from color to electricity.  It also has a theatre featuring IMAX movies and a planetarium show.  Tickets are required.

Institute of Contemporary Art San Diego

1439 El Prado

The Institute of Contemporary Art presents “experimental art”.  Nominal donations are requested.

Mingei International Museum

1439 El Prado

This Museum displays folk art.  Admission to the first-floor “Commons Level” is complimentary; tickets are required for the second-floor “Gallery Level”.

Museum of Us

1350 El Prado

The Museum of Us explores anthropology.  Exhibit subjects range from Ancient Egypt to “BEERology”.  When I visited at Christmastime, an annex housed a temporary exhibit on “Cannibals:  Myth & Reality”, with display subjects ranging from the settlement at Jamestown to the siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg), and an interactive video asking you to make hard choices as a member of the Donner-Reed party.

The main building boasts the California Tower.  Built for the Panama-California Exposition, the ornate Tower blends several architectural styles, including Baroque and Rococo, with Gothic details.  You may take a tour of the Tower and enjoy the views of San Diego and beyond from its viewing platform 387 feet above sea level.

Tickets are required.

San Diego Model Railroad Museum

1649 El Prado

This Museum houses the largest indoor collection of model railroads in North America.  It explores the role of railroads in history, particularly western history.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Museum of Art

1450 El Prado

The San Diego Museum of Art maintains a large collection, including many magnificent paintings by European masters like Goya, El Greco, Renoir, Rubens, van Dyck, and Velazquez.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Natural History Museum

1788 El Prado

This massive museum maintains a collection of 8 million specimens.  Its displays include live lizards and scorpions, dinosaur fossils, gems and minerals, rare books, historical documents, and a Foucault pendulum.  Tickets are required.

Timken Museum of Art

1500 El Prado

This small museum houses American and European works, including paintings by Copley, Fragonard, Rembrandt, Rubens, and van Dyck.  Admission is complimentary.

Japanese Friendship Garden & Museum

2215 Pan American Road

The extensive garden features pathways meandering through colorful flora including cherry blossoms, hydrangeas, wisteria, irises, camellias, and crape myrtles.

There are koi ponds, flowing waters, a bonsai display, and artifacts like Japanese woodblock prints.  I had a lovely time strolling though the garden during my recent visit — and even saw a girl having professional photos taken in her billowing lavender quinceañera gown and silvery tiara.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Air & Space Museum

2001 Pan American Plaza East

The Air & Space Museum celebrates San Diego’s contributions to aviation and aerospace exploration.  Its artifacts include the Apollo 9 command module, a Lockheed A-12 Blackbird spy plane, and a reproduction of Charles A. Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis.  Tickets are required.

San Diego Automotive Museum

2080 Pan American Plaza

This Museum explores history through its collection of classic cars, vintage automobiles, and other rare vehicles.  Tickets are required.

Spanish Village Art Center

1770 Village Place

This venue houses studios where you may watch local artists at work.  Admission is complimentary.

Balboa Park is more than just a collection of attractions — it’s a vibrant blend of world history, art, and nature.  Whether you’re learning about peoples of the past, admiring world-class art, or simply soaking up the San Diego sun, this urban oasis offers something for every traveller.  A day at Balboa Park feels like a journey through the cultures of the world, with a California twist.

* * *

What to Know before You Go to Balboa Park

Balboa Park spans 1,200 acres in San Diego.  It is bordered by Sixth Street, Upas Street, 28th Street, Russ Boulevard, and the San Diego Freeway.

El Prado begins where Laurel Street meets Sixth Street, midway between Upas Street and the San Diego Freeway.

There are 11 parking lots.  There is a complimentary tram inside the Park with stops at three parking lots, the Spreckels Organ Pavilion, and the Plaza de Panama.

San Diego’s Old Town Trolley stops near the Spreckels Organ Pavilion; the Tour narration includes brief information about the Park’s history, architecture, and attractions.

Balboa Park is free of charge to enter, all day, every day.  Its individual venues keep their own opening days and hours, and many have admission fees.  I used a GoCity pass, which includes admission to:

• Fleet Science Center
• Institute of Contemporary Art San Diego
• Japanese Friendship Garden
• Mingei International Museum
• Museum of Us
• San Diego Air and Space Museum
• San Diego Automotive Museum
• San Diego Model Railroad Museum
• San Diego Museum of Art
• San Diego Natural History Museum
• San Diego Zoo
• Old Town Trolley Tours

As of this writing, Rakuten is offerring 1 percent cash-back on GoCity passes.

There are plenty of places to eat in Balboa Park:

• Artifact (Michelin)
  inside the Mingei International Museum
  open for lunch, happy hour, and dinner
• Alaska Airlines Flight Path Grill
  2001 Pan American Plaza
  open for outdoor lunch
• Albert’s Restaurant at the San Diego Zoo
  2920 Zoo Drive
  open for lunch and early supper
• Café in the Park
  1649 El Prado
  open for light breakfast and lunch
• Craft Café
  inside the Mingei International Museum
  open for snacks and light lunch
• Craveology
  at the Fleet Science Center
  open for snacks and light lunch
• Daniel’s Coffee stand
  at the Spanish Village Art Center
  open for snacks
• Flying Squirrel
  at the San Diego Natural History Museum
  open for snacks and light lunch
• Lady Carolyn’s Pub
  at the Old Globe theatre
  open for light bites before and during performances
• Panama 66
  at the San Diego Museum of Art
  open for lunch, drinks, and dinner
• Prado Perk coffee stand
  in the House of Hospitality courtyard
  open for snacks
• Prado Restaurant
  at the House of Hospitality
  open for lunch, drinks, and dinner
• Tea Pavilion
  at the Japanese Friendship Garden
  open for lunch and tea

Wear lightweight layers, comfortable walking shoes, a hat, and plenty of sunscreen.

Allow at least one full day.

Four- and five-star hotels within two miles of Balboa Park include:

• Hotel Indigo San Diego — Gaslamp Quarter
• Pendry San Diego
• San Diego Marriott Gaslamp Quarter
• Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter

Continue your adventure in the Southwest:

• A Day at Zion National Park in Utah
• Equinox in Scottsdale, Arizona
• Three Days at Resorts World Las Vegas

The post A Day at Balboa Park — exploring world cultures in San Diego first appeared on Sancerres at Sunset.

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I used to visit San Diego just about every year.  I have dear family there, and for a while maintained a relationship with a local reporter.  But this was my first visit since lockdown, and my first solo trip ever.  I was spending a few days before meeting up with family and boarding a cruise to Mexico.

I decided to reacquaint myself with the city by taking a tour on the Old Town Trolley.  It was a relaxed and informative way to explore the city’s historic sites and vibrant neighborhoods.

Old Town Trolley Tours provide transportation to popular sites in eight places around America.  It’s a fun way for American-history lovers to pinpoint sites to explore more later.  Day-time tours are hop-on/hop-off, meaning that you can ride all day, disembarking and re-boarding to explore as many of the stops as you like.  The tours are narrated, and the conductors fill you in with important information, humorous anecdotes, and trivial tidbits about each of the stops.  You can buy a one- or two day ticket.

I used a GoCity Explorer pass.  A GoCity pass provides access to lots of sites, tours, and activities at a given destination.  It’s available in 31 places around the world.

The Explorer Pass gives you access to your choice of two to seven sites over a period of 60 days.  In San Diego, one of the options with the Explorer pass is a two-day ticket for the Old Town Trolley.

There is also a (misnomered) All-Inclusive Pass, which gives you access to as many sites as you can see over your choice of one to seven days, but the Old Town Trolley Tour is not one of the included options in San Diego.

As of this writing, Rakuten is giving 1 percent cash-back on GoCity pass purchases.

Stops on the Old Town Trolley Tour

There are 11 stops on the Old Town Trolley Tour in San Diego.  You can start and stop your tour at any of them.  The Tour covers 25 miles, and riding time is about 100 minutes.

Five of the stops have ticket booths:

• Stop A – Old Town
  4010 Twiggs Street
• Stop C – Embarcadero
  1004 North Harbor Drive
• Stop D – Seaport Village
  825 North Harbor Drive
• Stop F – Gaslamp Quarter
  4th and Island Avenue
• Stop I – Coronado – Orange Ave.
  1107 Orange Avenue

I started at Seaport Village, a short walk from my hotel.  A polite representative scanned my GoCity pass, and handed me a receipt, a map/schedule, and a sticker to wear.

A few minutes later, the Trolley arrived, and I climbed on board for a ride covering the following stops:

Seaport Village — Stop D

Seaport Village is an open-air mall along San Diego Bay.  It features dozens of shops and restaurants.

Marriott Marquis and Marina — Stop E

This upscale hotel boasts two pools, several restaurants, and (you guessed it!) a marina.

As of this writing, Rakuten is offerring 1.5 percent cash-back on Marriott bookings.

Gaslamp Quarter — Stop F

The Gaslamp Quarter is a historic neighborhood with lots of Victorian buildings, boutique shops, and a vibrant night life.  It takes its name from its gas-lamp street lighting.

The neighborhood houses one of my favorite hotels in San Diego, the historic U.S. GRANT, where my reporter friend and I used to nibble and tipple at the Grant Grill Bar & Lounge.

East Convention Center |
Petco Park and Hilton Bayfront — Stop G

The San Diego Convention Center features lots of indoor meeting space and outdoor terraces with beautiful views.

Petco Park is the home stadium of the San Diego Padres; I’ve enjoyed several baseball games there with family.

Hilton Bayfront offers a spa, a pool, several restaurants, and spectacular views.

Barrio Logan — Stop H

Barrio Logan is a Mexican-American neighborhood known for its public art, including massive murals.

Coronado | Orange Avenue — Stop I

Coronado is a peninsula in San Diego Bay.  It boasts the spectacular Coronado Beach.  The Trolley stops at Mc P’s Irish Pub & Grill.

The peninsula is perhaps best-known for the Victorian Hotel del Coronado.  The Hilton-affiliated resort has hosted presidents from Benjamin Harrison to Ronald Reagan and celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Charles Lindbergh.  It has been the setting for movies including Some Like It Hot with Marilyn Monroe.  I’ve spent splendid summer days and Christmas Eves there.

Balboa Park | Zoo — Stop J

Balboa Park is an enormous cultural oasis in San Diego.  It features Spanish Colonial Revival structures built for the Panama-California Exposition, a two-year celebration of the Panama Canal, which opened in 1914.  I’ve visited Balboa Park several times and enjoyed exploring its science museums and the world-renowned San Diego Zoo.

Little Italy — Stop K

Little Italy was settled in the 19th century largely by Italians and Italian-Americans who worked in San Diego’s then-robust tuna industry.  Today the neighborhood boasts Italian markets, art galleries, and lots of cultural festivals.

It also has plenty of places to eat, including three Michelin/Bilt restaurants:

• Born & Raised
• Herb & Wood
• Juniper & Ivy

Old Town Market — Stop A

Old Town San Diego is a historic neighborhood that was the site of the first European settlement in modern-day California.  I’ve visited several times.  The trolley stops at Old Town Market, which features dozens of kitschy shops.  The neighborhood also boasts lots of Mexican restaurants.

Since it’s the first stop on the Tour schedule, I had to hop off and change to a different trolley for the ride back.  So I decided to spend a few hours exploring.

Old Town San Diego State Historic Park

Old Town San Diego State Historic Park recreates life in 19th-century southern California.  It features original buildings from 1820-70.  There are several shops and museums.

The Cosmopolitan Hotel and Restaurant accommodated 19th-century stage-coach travellers.

It reopened as an operating venue in 2010.

Mormon Battalion Historic Site

In 1846, President James K. Polk called for midwesterners to join the U.S. Army, which was then heavily engaged in the Mexican-American War over territory in the West.  In response, hundreds of followers of Brigham Young and the Latter-day Saints movement formed the Mormon Battalion.  They marched nearly 2,000 miles from Council Bluffs, Iowa, to San Diego.  They improved pioneer trails along the way.  Some helped build Fort Moore in Los Angeles; others helped build Sutter’s Mill in northern California.  The Mormon Battalion Historic Site commemorates their contributions.  It features an interesting video, historical artifacts, and demonstrations on gold panning and brick-making.

Whaley House

Whaley House is the oldest brick building in southern California.  It was built in 1857 as the home of Thomas Whaley and his family.  He was born on Manhattan in 1823, went to San Francisco during the Gold Rush, and finally settled in San Diego in 1851 and opened a store there.

The Greek Revival building has at times housed the Whaley store, San Diego county’s second courthouse, and the city’s first commercial theatre.  Today it is a museum open for tours.

After a few fun hours in Old Town, I boarded another Trolley for the ride back to the Bay.  Along the way, the conductor pointed out the U.S. Marine Corps Recruit Depot, reminding me of the fascinating few days I spent at its sister boot camp on Parris Island, South Carolina.

Maritime Museum — Stop B

The Maritime Museum of San Diego features nine historic vessels:

• San Salvador, a replica of a 1542 full-rigged Spanish galleon
• H.M.S. Surprise, a replica of an 18th-century British frigate
• Star of India, an 1863 bark
• Berkeley, an 1898 steam-powered ferry
• Californian, a replica of a 19th-century topsail schooner
• Medea, a 1904 steam-powered yacht
• a 1914 wooden Pilot boat
• Dolphin, a 1968 submarine
• the 1968 PFC 816 Swift Boat

Embarcadero Marina — Stop C

The Embarcadero is a stretch along San Diego Bay.  The Trolley stop is close to the B Street Pier, where I would return in a few days to board my cruise ship.

But that’s another story.

The other places where you can enjoy Old Town Trolley Tours are:

• Boston, Massachusetts
• Key West, Florida
• Nashville, Tennessee
• St. Augustine, Florida
• San Antonio, Texas
• Savannah, Georgia
• Washington, D.C.

Continue your adventure in the West:

• Northern Utah
• Resorts World Las Vegas
• Talking Stick Resort in Scottsdale

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Resorts World Las Vegas boasts three hotels, nine pools, dozens of shops and restaurants, and an Asian street vibe.  I recently spent three days there.

The massive meld of mall, casino, and hotels opened in June 2021 at a cost of $4.3 billion, making it the most expensive resort property in the history of the Nevada city.

The property took the spot near the north end of the Strip once occupied by the storied Stardust, whose owner Boyd Gaming demolished it in 2007.  Vegas-based Boyd owns several smaller casinos where I’ve played around the country, like Diamond Jo in Northwood, Iowa, and Valley Forge in King-of-Prussia, Pennsylvania.

Resorts World is owned and operated by the Genting Group, a Malaysia-based conglomerate with business interests ranging from plantations to biotechnology.  Genting also operates casinos and resorts in New York City, the Bahamas, the United Kingdom, Egypt, Singapore, and Malaysia.  Its players club is Genting Rewards.

Hotels

Resorts World Las Vegas hosts three Hilton hotels in a 59-storey tower:

Las Vegas Hilton

In a city known for its over-the-top hotels, Las Vegas Hilton is a uniquely special name.  The original property opened in 1969 as the International Hotel, with Elvis Presley as its first performer.  It was renamed the Las Vegas Hilton in 1971.  In its heyday, it was the largest hotel in the world.  Elvis performed his last Vegas show there in December 1976.  About a year after the singer’s young death, the Hilton commissioned a massive bronze statue to honor him and his legacy.  I saw it when I stayed there with my late mother during one of our cross-country drives.  Today the original building houses the Westgate Las Vegas, and its street has been renamed Elvis Presley Boulevard.  The statue, and the sense of history it evokes, remain there.  But the Las Vegas Hilton name has moved about half a mile away, along Elvis Presley Boulevard and across the Strip, to Resorts World, where its vibe is a much closer match to the brand’s modern mid-scale image — suitable though nothing special.  But it does have a unique sculpture.

Crockfords Las Vegas

At the other end of the spectrum is the luxury Crockfords, which shares its name with Genting casinos in London and Cairo.  It occupies the highest storeys of the hotel tower.  Room options include Strip-view suites, “sky-level villas”, and “palaces”, which boast private pools, patio kitchens, and media rooms with cinema-style seating.

Conrad Las Vegas

In between is the upscale Conrad.  This is where I stayed.  At the time of the trip, I had Silver status with Hilton’s HHonors program.

Conrad is considered one of Hilton’s luxury brands, with properties primarily in Asia, but expanding in the United States, with hotels in Fort Lauderdale, Indianapolis, Los Angeles, Nashville, New York City, and Washington, D.C.

The lobby is open and spacious, with a convenient bar.  Check-in was efficient, with no wait.  The young man at the reception desk was courteous and helpful.

My suite was available immediately, even though I’d arrived well before noon.

There was a lot to like about my suite.  The living room was large, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a fabulous view of the Strip.

The bedroom was cozy but suitable, and the king bed was comfortable.  It too boasted full-length windows.  It had black-out draperies, workable from bedside buttons, but I don’t use those because I love waking up to the sight of the Strip.

The bathroom was also large, with a separate shower and a deep soaking tub, which provided the biggest wow moment of the trip, as I slipped beneath the bubbles and savored the nighttime view from the Encore to the Venetian.  It had both individual toiletries and those disgusting dispensers touched by every previous guest, but the former were never replaced during my stay.

There was adequate closet and drawer space, though a few clip hangers were broken when I arrived and never removed and replaced.

The suite also had an espresso machine, but the pods were also never replaced.  Nor were my dirtied wine glasses removed or replaced.

All in all, it was a comfortable suite, but it grew less so over my visit because of the lax housekeeping standards.

I did have difficulty getting an Uber back to the airport.  Resorts World’s official pick-up spot is near the casino entrance.  A very pleasant valet pointed this out to me and advised me to make a note in the Uber app telling the driver that I was in front of the Conrad.  The driver arrived at the hotel — I saw him — but he drove off while I was rolling my luggage toward his car.  I’ve used Uber for years, and never had a problem like this before.  It was clearly the driver’s error, but it was fostered by Resorts World’s inefficient pick-up system.  The valet hailed me a cab, which ended up costing me about $20 more than the Uber would have been.

And there was a $45 nightly resort fee.

Amenities

So, what did the resort include?

The large casino has just what you’d expect at an upscale Vegas resort:  dozens of table games, hundreds of slot machines, a poker room and a sports book.  I played some video poker, but no one ever came to take my drink order, so I didn’t linger long.

There are nine pools.  I tried to check out the much-ballyhooed Athena Infinity Ultra Pool but was told that it was closed.

The fitness center offers the breadth of cardio equipment you’d expect at an upscale resort, including Peloton bikes.  There’s a spa, but the line was so long when I went to check it out that I didn’t stay around.

There are two storeys of shops, ranging from a Fred Segal boutique to Pepper, a sex store that offers lingerie, “toys” I don’t understand and don’t want to, and rooms for rent.

I did go for a haircut at Miss Behave Beauty Bar, a salon serving drinks.  The haircut was excellent, one of the best I’ve had, and weeks later it’s still holding its shape.  It was also the priciest, even before the surprise 20 percent service charge.  The aesthetic of the salon is more strip-mall than luxury spa — one big bland room with standard styling stations.  And they didn’t comp me so much as a glass of Prosecco.  I’m glad for the great cut, but the cheap vibe will stay with me longer.

Restaurants

Resorts World Las Vegas features dozens of restaurants.  You can find a range options, from Wagyu steak to street food.  Opening days and hours are all over the place, so double-check before making plans.  I sampled several of them:

Brezza

This Italian restaurant is open for lunch, “cicchetti hour”, and dinner.  I had the Heirloom Caprese, which was very good.  The tomatoes and mozzarella were very fresh, and the crostini well grilled.  It also came with a “tomato gelée”, essentially an aspic; I didn’t care for it, but I don’t care for aspics, so it was probably well done.

¡Viva!

This Latin restaurant is open for brunch, lunch, happy hour, and dinner.  I had the Barbacoa Melt, a grilled sandwich with short rib and Gruyère.  It was yummy; the meat was tender and the cheese warm and gooey.

Junior’s

Junior’s is a diner chain based in New York.  It’s open from breakfast to “late night”, has a bar, and raves about its own cheesecake.

I went once for breakfast.  I’m an early riser, and I was on East Coast time, so I was there before the rush.  Later in the morning, though, there was usually a long line to get in.

Even though I was there before the crowds, the service was chaotic, with multiple people taking my coffee order.  When the coffee arrived, it was dreadful — somehow managing to be both weak and bitter at the same time.  It reminded me of the dining-hall coffee in college.

I also ordered a veggie omelet with home fries and an English muffin.  The omelet was the worst I can ever remember; the broccoli was undercooked and the bell pepper was not fully seeded.  The potatoes were dry.  The English muffin was good.

I didn’t try the cheesecake.

Sun’s Out Buns Out

Eggs take center-stage at this fast-casual place.  I popped by one afternoon hoping to order a sandwich from its “all[-]day” menu.  Unfortunately, its understanding of all-day differs from mine, as the place was closed from noon to 10 p.m.

I gave it a second chance for breakfast.  I ordered a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich, which came slathered with ketchup.  I’m sure people who like bacon, eggs, and cheese with ketchup would find it just the sort of thing they like.

Kuru Kuru Pa Teriyaki Bowls

This Japanese fast-food place is part of Resorts World’s “Famous Foods”, a downscale spot set up to resemble a Southeast Asian street market.  Asian street food is having a moment, and if you’re craving it, this is a good place to get your fix.  There are also a few American stalls, including burger and barbecue places, though neither was open whenever I visited.

I had the Angus Beef Tenderloin bowl, served with rice and scallions.  It was tasty; the meat was generous and tender and the rice well cooked.

The main challenge at Famous Foods is the impersonal ordering system.  You must order by using a self-serve kiosk, which means that you have to walk around to determine which stalls happen to be open and which of them offers the most appealing food, then find an available and working kiosk and place your order, and then return to the stall to await your meal.

Michos Tacos

Michos Tacos has a stand located at the edge of Famous Foods, but you can order right there without doing the kiosk kabuki.  I had the carnitas tacos.  They were delicious; the pork was well seasoned and the tortillas soft, warm, and fresh.

Starbucks

I went here several times for coffee.  I’ve visited Starbucks from Seattle to Switzerland, and this was easily the priciest.  But there was never a line, and the service was always pleasant.  And the coffee was good.

GrubHub

Resorts World Las Vegas does not have its own room service.  Instead, you must order via GrubHub.  I tried a couple of times, but the app was always buggy for me, and I never successfully placed an order.  (Yes, I have used GrubHub elsewhere with no problem.)

Location

Sitting near the north end of the Strip, Resorts World does feel somewhat disconnected from the heart of Vegas, but it isn’t totally isolated.  It’s roughly a mile from the Convention Center.  If you’re looking to refresh with classic luxury for a bit, it’s a short walk to Encore to the south or Fontainebleau to the north.  It’s also across the Strip from the Peppermill Restaurant & Lounge, a colorful classic for an early breakfast, late drinks, or anything in between, seen in several popular movies including Casino and The Cotton Club.

But if you want to go much further, it’ll cost you time and maybe money.  Resorts World is about two miles from the center Strip.  I like to walk, so I enjoyed strolling my way south toward Princess Diana & the Royals:  the Exhibition, popping in at some of my favorite casinos:  Encore, Palazzo, Caesars, Cosmopolitan, Aria.  I did take an Uber back though.  You could also ride the Monorail, which has a stop at the Convention Center and goes as far as the MGM Grand near the south end of the Strip.

Resorts World is about four miles south of downtown Vegas.  I didn’t make it that far, though I did walk roughly a mile north to the STRAT, then across the Strip to the SAHARA, and back.

On the other hand, you could spend several weeks at Resorts World Las Vegas without having to leave the premises.  There’s plenty to do, and there’s always food available.  It’s like a metaverse unto itself.

* * *

Continue your adventure in the Southwest:

• A Day along San Diego Bay
• Equinox in Scottsdale, Arizona
• Road Trip:  Utah to New Mexico

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Michelin has just announced seven key hotels in the nation’s capital.  Like Michelin stars for outstanding restaurants, Michelin keys are awarded for outstanding hotels.

Michelin vets hotels for excellence in five categories:

• architecture and interior design
• quality and consistency of service
• overall personality and character
• value for the price
• significant contribution to the guest experience in a particular setting

Its somewhat vague key code is as follows:

• Three Keys:  an extraordinary stay
• Two Keys:  an exceptional stay
• One Key:  a very special stay
  

Michelin recognized the following hotels in Washington, D.C.:

Two Keys

The Jefferson

This hotel is an excellent choice if you prefer classic luxury, a sense of history, and a central location.  The beaux-arts building is located downtown not far from where I worked for a year or so at a job so boring that it inspired me to start blogging as a way to save my sanity.  The hotel opened in 1923 and was named after America’s third president.

The lobby features a gallery of gold-framed documents signed by Thomas Jefferson.  Framed maps around the hotel mark some of the places where he travelled.  Most of the furniture is custom-built replicas from Monticello.

The rooms and suites are elegant.  Curtains and pillows feature images of Monticello.  Some rooms display Jefferson quotes in frames.

Amenities include a gym and valet parking.  Check-out time is an annoying 11 a.m.

The hotel’s restaurant, The Greenhouse, is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.  Options range from a short-rib burger to Dover sole for two.

Its upscale lounge Quill offers craft cocktails and bar bites.  A pianist plays live music during Tuesday-Saturday.

The closest Michelin restaurant is Dauphine’s, a Bib Gourmand spot serving creative Creole cuisine.  The closest Bilt restaurant is Le DeSales, which features French and Japanese food.

The Jefferson is within walking distance of lots of sites, including

• the White House
• the Renwick Gallery
• the National Mall

The closest Metro station is Farragut North on the Red line.

Rosewood Washington, D.C.

This modern hotel is a good choice if you want contemporary comfort in a vibrant waterfront location.  It is located in Georgetown, a historic neighborhood with lots of restaurants and shops, where I spent quite a bit of time when I went to college nearby.

The small hotel features 57 rooms, including 12 suites and eight townhouses.  Most offer views of Georgetown’s quaint streets, the Potomac River, or the C&O Canal.  They’re also tech-y, with features like remote-controlled blinds.

Amenities include a gym and a heated rooftop infinity pool.  There is a library with soaring ceilings, complimentary coffee, and butler service.

Check-out time is a reasonable 12 noon.

Wolfgang Puck‘s CUT steakhouse is open for breakfast and dinner.  Options range from Ivy City smoked salmon to Australian wagyu filet mignon.  There is also a roof-top bar, CUT Above.

The closest Michelin restaurant is Fiola Mare, which serves seafood.  The closest Bilt restaurant is FLAVIO, which features Italian cuisine.

The hotel is within walking distance of several sites, including:

• Dumbarton House
• O Museum in the Mansion
• the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts

The closest Metro stop is Rosslyn on the Blue, Orange, and Silver lines.

One Key

The Dupont Circle

This Preferred hotel is a good choice if you want contemporary style in a vibrant location.  It is located in Dupont Circle, an eclectic neighborhood where I went to grad school.

There’s a broad range of sleeping accommodations, from cozy rooms to spacious suites with fireplaces, balconies, and fabulous views.

Amenities include a gym and valet parking.  Check-out is at 12 noon.

The hotel’s Michelin restaurant, The Pembroke, is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.  Options range from Virginia Ham Benedict to miso-glazed Chilean sea bass.

The hotel’s lounge Doyle features a club-like vibe, bar bites, and views of Dupont Circle.  Doyle and Co. is the hotel’s coffee bar.

The closest Bilt restaurant is Lyle’s, which serves American food.

The Dupont Circle is within walking distance of several sites, including:

• Anderson House
• The Phillips Collection
• O Museum in the Mansion

The closest Metro station is Dupont Circle on the Red line.

Eaton D.C.

This modern hotel is a good choice if you want something contemporary with a woke hostel vibe.  It is located downtown very close to where I worked for several years in a fun job that fueled my wanderlust with travel from Ontario to El Salvador.

Accommodations range from cozy rooms to small suites.  They are equipped with books, smart TVs, and turntables and vinyl records, but no coffee makers.

Amenities include a gym, valet parking, and co-working space.

The spa offers a limited range of services, including massage, reiki, and pranic healing, a “no[-]touch” treatment during which “practitioners work directly with your energy field to restore balance and flow to your entire system”.  Check-out is at 11 a.m.

The hotel’s Michelin restaurant Michele’s serves French-American cuisine for lunch, happy hour, and dinner.  Options include oysters on the half-shell, a double cheeseburger, and fried fish for two.

Its roof-top lounge Wild Days offers tacos, ‘smores, and live music.  Allegory is a speak-easy tucked inside a library.  Baker’s Daughter is a casual café.

The closest Bilt restaurant is Immigrant Food inside the Planet Word museum.

Other sites nearby include:

• National Museum of Women in the Arts
• National Portrait Gallery
• Smithsonian American Art Museum

The closest Metro stop is McPherson Square on the Blue, Orange, and Silver lines.

The Hay-Adams Hotel

This hotel is an excellent choice if you prefer classic luxury, a sense of history, and a central location.  Its Italian Renaissance building is located downtown not far from where I worked during college.

The hotel opened in 1928.  It’s named for Abraham Lincoln’s Secretary of State John Milton Hay and author Henry Brooks Adams, who owned homes at the site where the hotel now stands.  It’s one of my favorite hotels in Washington.

The rooms and suites are elegant, and many have balconies.

Amenities include a gym and valet parking.  Check-out is at 12 noon.

The hotel’s restaurant, The Lafayette, serves American food for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.  Options range from oatmeal soufflé to American kuro wagyu striploin.

Its elegant lounge, Off the Record, is one of my favorite hotel bars in the world.  Top of the Hay is a rooftop terrace with panoramic views of Washington.

The closest Michelin restaurant is La Bise, which serves French food.  The closest Bilt restaurant is Immigrant Food at the White House.

The Hay-Adams is across Lafayette Park from the White House.  The closest Metro stop is Farragut West on the Blue, Orange, and Silver lines.

Pendry Washington, D.C. — the Wharf

This Preferred hotel is a fine choice if you want contemporary comfort in a vibrant waterfront location.

Rooms and suites have a sleek modernist design with full-length windows.  Many have nice views of the Potomac River.

Amenities include a gym and a terrace with a heated saltwater pool, a whirlpool, cabanas, and views of the Potomac River.

Spa Pendry offers the indulgent services you’d expect at a luxury spa, like facials and massages, as well as rainfall showers and a eucalyptus steam room.

The Pendry offers guests complimentary rides around the immediate area in its hotel Cadillac.  It also offers the complimentary use of e-bikes.  And it has a boat you can charter for a local cruise.

Check-out time is 11 a.m.

The hotel’s Michelin restaurant Flora Flora serves Latin American cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  Options range from huevos rancheros to ancho-braised short rib.

The hotel’s rooftop bar Moonraker offers spectacular views of the River; its walls can open and close depending on the weather.

The lobby Bar Pendry offers a speak-easy feel, with comfy backed stools and cushy seating by the windows and in a cozy side room.  It offers “boozy tea” on Saturday afternoons.  I enjoy popping in for a glass of wine while visiting the Wharf.

The closest Bilt restaurant is Station 4, which serves American food.

The hotel is a fine staging spot for a stroll around the Tidal Basin, where the cherry blossoms bloom.

The closest Metro stop is Waterfront on the Green line.  The Pendry is also a short walk from the Transit Pier, where you may board the Potomac Water Taxi to Georgetown, National Harbor, and Alexandria.

Riggs Washington D.C.

This Preferred hotel is a good choice if you want classic luxury, a sense of history, and a vibrant central location.  Its Romanesque Revival building is located in Penn Quarter, an eclectic neighborhood near where I used to work.  It used to house a leading bank, and several presidents and embassies conducted their financial business there.

The hotel offers elegant rooms and four suites named after former First Ladies.  Amenities include a gym and valet parking.  Check-out time is 12 noon.

The bank-turned-hotel has a bar housed in the original vault.  Its Café Riggs is a Michelin/Bilt restaurant open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.  Options range from shakshuka to Rohan duck for two.

It is within walking distance of lots of sites, including:

• Ford’s Theatre
• National Portrait Gallery
• Smithsonian American Art Museum

The closest Metro station is Gallery Place on the Yellow, Red, and Green lines.

Michelin has also announced key hotels in six other areas around the United States:

• Atlanta
• California
• Chicago
• Colorado
• Florida
• New York

The post Michelin Honors 7 Key Hotels in Washington, D.C. first appeared on Sancerres at Sunset.

American Airlines’ Admirals Club on Concourse E in Terminal 2 at Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport in Arlington, Virginia, is what a domestic airport lounge should be.  It’s a quiet reprieve from the bedlam of air travel.

American Airlines has begun rolling out “a reimagined premium Admirals Club design”.  It features lots of open space, good lighting, and a speak-easy vibe, with natural woods, mosaic tile, and cushy carpeting.  The Club on Concourse E at Reagan National was the first to feature the new design, followed by lounges at Newark Liberty International Airport and Denver International Airport.

I’ve visited the redesigned Club at Reagan National before my most recent flights to Las Vegas and San Diego.  There are also Admirals Clubs on Concourses C and D, but they do not feature the elegant redesign.

The Club is located on the mezzanine level of Terminal 2, with an entrance on the first floor between the Capitol File News stand and P.F. Changs restaurant.  It has interior windows that look down on the main floor.  Exterior windows offer views of the tarmac and of the unique Washington skyline.  The Club pays homage to our nation’s capital with cherry-blossom art work and dome-shaped light fixtures featuring fragments from historic speeches.  (The former Cabinet speechwriter in me got a big kick out of those.)

The lay-out offers the best of both worlds.  There are places to read or work alone and spots to chat with companions.

On one side is the bar and buffet.  I was there at breakfast time, and the food options are similar to what you’d find at a select-service hotel.  Later in the day, there are light bites like a taco bar.  For more options, you can also order from a menu.  There is café-style seating with tables and booths.

On the other side is the quiet relaxation area.  This is where the fireplace is, along with comfy sofas, recliners, and club chairs.  There is also a small snack area.

There are plenty of grounded outlets and USB ports throughout the Club.  The rest rooms were clean and comfortable.

Overall, the Club is warm and well-lit.  It is large, and you should be able to find seating that meets your needs easily.  Its refined design makes it a welcome oasis from the unseemliness that characterizes so much of air travel.

Between the indecency of “security” and the undignified stampede of boarding, it offers a brief respite of elevated peace.

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