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Cool points rarely mean gravitas, but Byredo has both; there are many lines that boast unusual ingredients or strange combinations, none can match the crisp freshness of Byredo; one spray of the aptly titled, Green is akin to walking through a garden of sage, spritz Pulp and you can almost taste the sweetness of ripe blood oranges. There is something wholly addictive about the way in which they manage to radiate that rawness that comes with natural smells.

The bottle of La Tulipe sitting on my dresser

Created ex-basketball player Ben Gorham (read the fascinating story of his move from sports to perfuming here) the line is chock full of winners. Personally, I am partial to the zest of the aforementioned Green, as well as their quintessentially Spring fragrance, La Tulipe, but there really is something for everyone.

A selection of monochromatic dresses and jumpers, followed by a cropped crochet top and white pants with a little hint of stomach.

Gorgeous burgundy mixed with khaki – love the bathrobe inspired trench coat, sure to be a hit. The cuffed khakis are almost preppy.

Signature black and white for the true Wang devotees, note the amount of midriff were seeing this resort season.

By the time you read this post, someone will have tried to convince you that there is a new minimalism. Whoever this person is, they are a liar and should not be trusted in any capacity. Minimalism never went away and the new minimalism looks suspiciously like the old version; case in point, this season when every other designer is attempting homage to the days when Helmut Lang, Calvin Klein and Jil Sander were actually helming their respective labels. All this millennial redux isn’t a bad thing as our appetite for simple, elegant clothes is never quite sated, but for those of who lived through the decade, the nostalgia can feel just a little too early. After all, there are women who still have their original camel coats tucked safely in storage, do they really need the new Celine variant?

The answer is of course, yes. There is still something appealing about the K.I.S.S. ethos of pared down design, be it fashion, art or even in the stripped down designs of publications like Gentlewoman and Dapper Dan. Whether or not women are ready dress like austere models seen on catwalks, they retain their interest in simplicity. Beneath the severity of minimalism lies a utilitarian spirit; Stella McCartney’s faux leather separates may look sleek, but they are also cut to flatter, accented by functional flat shoes and in season defying neutrals – same goes for the slouchy new offerings at Bottega, or even Philo’s heralded creations. Is it any wonder then that we keep hearing about the rebirth of minimalism season after season? The spin might be getting old, but the clothes keep working.

*Intro image | The Row F/W 2010 by Jak & Jil

Jeff Burton understands subtlety. Unlike most purveyors of salacious imagery, Burton takes the cunning approach rather than the obvious one – if you would like in your face (read: crotch) titillation please see Uncle Terry. Knowing that Burton began is career shooting on sets of adult films, gives you a hint of the kind of things he has to offer, but ultimately it is a red herring. There is sex – the subjects of Burton’s pictures appear to be in a constant state of ecstasy, whether they are arching their backs and parting their lips, or taking drags from post-coital cigarettes – but it never strays into gratuitous territory. Even when shooting porn stars like the nubile Sasha Grey, Burton manages to maintain an aura of mystery. His world is at once familiar and new; somewhere in between Marilyn Minter’s subversiveness and Nan Goldin’s voyeurism, lies the place Burton takes you to. You are given a glimpse into his reality, hidden behind palm leaves and shrouded in mist, blurry and out of focus in the background. Every time I see one of his pictures I get chills…

Angela Lindvall | LA Times, 2008

The Other Place, 2005

Untitled (Black Ribbon), 2002

Hollywood Sign | Vogue Paris, 2006

Mariacarla Boscono | Vogue Paris, 2006

Brett Easton Ellis | Fantastic Man, 2009

Sasha Grey, 2009

Untitled #151 (Picket Fence), 2001

Untitled #192 (Stoplight with Palms), 2005

Sasha Grey, 2009

Untitled #113 (Bougainvillea), 2000

Vogue Hommes International, 2009

Red Campaign, 2008

The new Tom Ford lipsticks will not give you an orgasm.

Shocking news, but it is important for people to know the truth. In spite of the scintillating campaign featuring Jon Kortajarena in what looks like a reprise of his ‘Single Man’ role as a slick hustler, the highway robbery $45 dollar price tag and Tom Ford’s unspoken yet implied desire to personally arouse your…interest, the lipsticks are just lipsticks. Brilliantly pigmented, incredibly moisturizing, lush lipsticks, presented in hard white casing that looks as though it could double as a blunt instrument fit for assault. Bright, attention grabbing colors that could (if the advertising is to be believed) look perfect smeared on the face of your handsome Spanish lover, as you indulge in night of passion so intense that you –

Tom Ford Private Blend Lip Color in Bruised Plum, Smoke Red & Pink Dusk

Wait. It is just lipstick. $45 dollar lipstick, in a white case that will end up scratched at the bottom of your purse and make you wonder just why you blew all that money the second you get your Amex bill. That is of course Tom Ford’s trick, he creates a world of lusty luxury you want to be a part of, and products good enough to almost be worth his price point. If you’re looking for a great show stopper look, you can’t go wrong with Ford’s Smoke Red, but if you’re looking for anything more than that you might as well save your pennies. That said if you want the luxurious feel of Tom Ford on your lips (minus the perma-stubble) you are in for a truly decadent treat; I couldn’t resist picking up a few shades and the long lasting, smooth as silk feel is out of sight.

The there is a great deal of buzz surrounding the new Givenchy campaign, due to its early release (summer hasn’t even started and already we get a fall campaign, further proof that the 24/7 fashion cycle thrives on immediacy) but also due to the fact that it prominently features a transgendered person amongst its lineup of beauties. For all fashion’s proclamations of inclusiveness and acceptance, you’d be hard pressed to find examples of trans individuals in editorials and campaigns. Fashion flirts with androgyny on a daily basis, it flaunts sexual imagery whenever it can, but only rarely does it touch on something legitimately topical. Benetton

Givenchy F/W 2010

Riccardo Tisci is one of fashion’s most continually fascinating characters and not simply because he is one of the few designers you can call an artist without resorting to irony, whether intentionally or through some divine providence Tisci has been blessed with the ability to create dialogue with his work. Much in the same way Calvin Klein used to stir up controversy every few years with a campaign, that got people talking (or yelling) Tisci understands the importance of imagery. While he shares Klein’s knack for skillful media manipulation, he has a considerably subtler touch. How many CK ads have banged you over the head with their obvious attempts at making you blush? S/S 09’s strangely sexless CK Jeans denim orgy was downright desperate, instead of resorting to that, the Givenchy ad shows a Benetton-esque combination of all races and sexes that blends together seamlessly, much like it did in last season’s eerily similar campaign. The unstated, yet underlying message of uniformity and connection is a strong one; would anyone have even known that Lea T. was any different from the other models, had there not been a strategically timed WWD article?

Asexual Revolution, ph. Steven Meisel

Which brings us back to the reason why images like this are so rare; fashion is after all a business above all other things. Politicizing an image (and in the world we live in any visual with a strong connection to the LGBT community is automatically imbued with a political statement) can be bad for business. It is easier to show something vaguely sexual, that stirs up a few moments of controversy, than it is to represent a marginalized group as being beautiful, or gasp normal. It will be interesting to see the public reaction; depictions of gender in fashion always provoke feedback, especially when they challenge the status quo. Remember the canceled subscriptions and angry letters W received after its publication of Meisel’s landmark, Asexual Revolution spread? Or the brohaha the occurred after Tom Ford-era YSL dared to a nude male in the ads for M7? Fashion can challenge our sensibilities, it can make us think about things other than what to buy; here’s to hoping that this ad makes a few people open their eyes and broaden their perspectives.

The Hyères prize is as good a litmus test for fashion’s future as any design competition can be. The likes of Viktor and Rolf, Gaspard Yurkievich and Felipe Oliveira Baptista have debuted at the innovative festival, so it is no shock that this year’s contest introduces us to some idiosyncratic talents. Among them, winner Alexandra Verschueren stands out as an exceptionally individual voice. Looking at her collection it is easy to see why she won the competition; origami inspired fashions have become increasingly popular in recent seasons, but at their best Verschueren’s pieces eschew the trappings of their paper inspirations. There are strange and intriguing new shapes, but there are also smart updates on classic pieces, like the cocktail dress that looks as though it was reshaped by pinking shears, or any of the one of a kind coats. Their range breathes fresh life into the simple concepts; everyone will be wearing a camel coat come fall, but how many boast geometrical frills remniscent of wearable graph paper? The strength of Verschueren’s work lies in its ability to elevate these normal staples into something magical.

Visit Alexandra Verschueren.com for even more.