Booking a flight, room and rental car

The tops of these colorful balloons like a bit like flowers, photo/Steve Collins

Tip: Book early, this is a hugely popular event and things book up early.

People often book their hotel rooms a year in advance. If want the hotel of your choice, book early, you can always cancel (subject to the hotel’s cancellation policies). Prices for hotels and car rentals are at their peak during Balloon Fiesta so  shop around for deals.

When to go

A sky full of balloons, photo Steve Collins

Tip: For the mass ascensions go on Saturday.

The event takes place over nine days. There are two sessions each day; morning and evening. The best and most attended events are the weekend mass ascensions held early Saturday and Sunday mornings with more than 500 hot air balloons taking to the sky en masse. It’s a visually stunning experience! The catch? Balloons can only ascend in certain air and wind conditions. One of the reasons Albuquerque is ideal for ballooning are the wind patterns that create The Albuquerque Box.”These perfect conditions often occur on early October mornings. If the weather conditions aren’t just right, the balloons won’t launch.

We went on a rainy, cloudy, windy Sunday. The launch, which is supposed to be a 7am, was delayed. Just when the it was about to be cancelled. a bit after 8am, there was a window and balloons started to launch. It was a short window so not all the balloons got off the ground, but, none the less, it was a splendid spectacle. Had they not launched, we would have been back the following Saturday. The lesson we took away from this is to make sure you get to see a mass ascension, go the first day of the Fiesta. If the balloons aren’t able to take off, you can try again the next day. If you’re local and there’s no ascension, you can come back the next weekend. Coming from out of town? Morning sessions end at noon.

Evening sessions are less crowded which means less traffic. The gates open at 3:30 and everything winds down by 9pm.

The longer your stay in Albuquerque, the better your chances for catching the weather-dependent events such as launches and balloon glows.

Getting there

A pre-dawn souvenir balloon vendor on Main Street, photo Steve Collins

Tip 1: Arrive early!

It took us 13 years to get to Balloon Fiesta. Why? The mass ascensions take place at 7am. To beatd the worst of the traffic, you have to leave Santa Fe by 4:30am so you can arrive at Balloon Fiesta Park, get parked and on be on the field in time for the 7am launch. Traffic headed to the Fiesta is massive and waits are long. We finally bit the bullet when I got a writing assignment that included the event. I needed first-hand experience. (Because I was on assignment, we got press passes to the Fiesta.) We made great time getting to the Tramway Boulevard exit on I-25, arriving at 5:30am. That’s when we encountered the bumper to bumper traffic and then the slow crawl began. It took us about an hour in the cold, pre-dawn to get to the parking lot. But we made it.

Bring cash (the only thing accepted) for parking fees. Current parking rate is $15.

Tip 2: Take the Fiesta Express Park & Ride.

The Fiesta Express Park & Ride, sponsored by Visit Albuquerque, is a great way to avoid driving in traffic. Bring your morning drink and a snack and enjoy the ride. You can even catch a few winks. Currently there’s pick-up at six locations around the city. Buses start running at 4:30am. The bus ticket price includes Balloon Fiesta admission. Advance online purchase tickets are less expensive than ones bought onsite day of; you can purchase them online before midnight on the day before you want to attend a morning session and up to noon day of for the evening sessions. While children 12 and under get free admission to the Fiesta, children over five must pay to ride the bus.

Tip 3: Ride your bike

The Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta makes it easy to ride your bike and avoid traffic jams and bus lines. They offer a free Bike Valet service. It’s open mornings from 5:30 to 10:30am and evenings (when there’s an event) from 5 to 9pm. As you’ll be riding in the dark, either arriving in the morning or departing at night, make sure your bike is equipped with safety gear including headlamps, reflectors and tail lights.

Tip 4: Take your RV.

If you want to be onsite and not hassle with traffic and you own (or decide to rent an RV) it’s a great way to experience Balloon Fiesta. Here’s a post with tips written by people who shared their experience RVing at the Fiesta. Reservations for spots for the next year’s Fiesta, which currently run from $35 to $175 per night, depending on location and amenities. You can reserve a space starting a week after this year’s Fiesta. This is a popular option and sells out. Reserve early!

Ticketing

More inflating balloons, ones ready to ascend and one in the air photo Steve Collins

Tip: Buy your tickets in advance online.

Anyone 12 or older needs a ticket to get into the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta. If you want to avoid possible lines on the day you go, buy your tickets online in advance. If you’re buying at the gate, bring cash; they don’t accept credit cards. Current admission price is $10. You can purchase a book of five tickets for $45. Tickets are non-refundable. If events are cancelled, your ticket will act as a rain check; hang onto it!

If you want to go in-style, check out the Gondola Club. Admission (currently $100 per person, per session (group discounts available), has a lot of perks including: admission to the Fiesta, parking pass to private Gondola Club parking (as well as shuttle service), buffet meal (breakfast or dinner buffet, depending on session attended), free alcoholic beverages (except Sunday’s before noon when no liquor, per state law, can be served, prime location to view balloon launch and my favorite: real bathrooms.

The Chasers’ Club (tickets currently $45 per person, per session) includes park admission, private patio seating and a drink and food item.

What to wear

Special shape balloons such as the bear are big crowd pleasers at the Fiesta, photo/Steve Collins

Tip: Dress in layers.

Dress in layers; the weather will change throughout the day. At 5am it can be mighty chilly! You want a jacket. I HATE having cold feet; I actually wore UGGS and carried shoes. I also brought gloves and a hat, in case. Wear closed-toe shoes as the grass could be damp. The day we went it was wet. By 10am, it could warm up; in early October it can get pretty warm during the day.

For evening sessions, it’s the reverse. even on a warm evening it can chill before the event ends.  Be prepared!

Other things to bring

A mounted patrol at the launch site photo Steve Collins

Also, at almost a mile above sea level, you’re closer to the sun. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hot. Also, New Mexico is very dry. Carry (and drink) a lot of water. Also, as you will be arriving in the dark in the morning and leaving in the dark at night, bring a small flashlight. If you want to sit while at Balloon Fiesta, bring your own chair.

Plan your Balloon Fiesta time

Balloon glow at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, photo Angelina Peace, courtesy of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta

Tip: Make sure to attend a mass ascension

Mornings

There’s a lot going on each day at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta. If you’re not planning to go more than one day, plan to attend on days that offer scheduled events that interest you. Weekends are prime time. The mass ascensions are the most coveted events. There’s nothing like seeing hundreds of balloons in the sky! Mornings start with a laser light show at 5:45 followed at about 6am (weather permitting) by the Dawn Patrol, a choreographed inflation and launch. The show, set to music, has been part of the Fiesta since 1996. Another morning event open to the public is the Pilot Briefing starting around 6:15am. Pilots learn of any delays or event cancellations here. Be one of the first to know!

Don’t just watch from afar. Get out onto the field in the middle of the inflating and launching balloons. Hearing the loud whoosh of the flame that powers the balloon is like hearing a giant Darth Vader breathe, it’s memorable. And watching these huge balloons go from flat on the ground to fully inflated and ready to go is another experience you’ll long remember. You also get to interact with the crews going up in the balloons.

Take lots of photos! Steve loved the photo ops and, almost as fun for him: seeing the range of photo equipment and talking to other shutterbugs

On weekend mornings, there are the mass ascensions at 7am, weather permitting.

Evenings

Evening sessions offer a variety of events. Some of the more popular are the America’s Challenge Gas Balloon Race Launch, held on the first Saturday, the Special Shape Glowdeo™, held on both Thursday and Friday nights and the Night Magic™ Glow on the second Saturday. There is a laser light show every night. There is no evening sessions on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.

The entire Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta schedule can be found here.

Visit Main Street

Want a bit of breakfast or a hot drink to help warm you up? Hit Mail Street, photo Steve Collins

Main Street, is the third of a mile stretch where you’ll find food vendors as well as booths selling Balloon Fiesta souvenirs. There are also public information booths set up. Grab a hand-held New Mexico burrito (our favorite: green chile and bacon) and eat it while browsing Main Street.

Book a balloon ride

Want to go up, up and away at Balloon Fiesta? Book a ride with Rainbow Ryders, photo Steve Collins

Want to experience balloon flight? You can book a balloon ride with Rainbow Ryders the only commercial balloon company allowed to launch passenger rides from Balloon Fiesta park during the Fiesta. While rides are way more expensive during Balloon Fiesta than they are the rest of the year, flights are popular and book up.

Plan your days

Take a day trip to Santa Fe where you can visit the oldest house in the USA photo/Steve Collins

The morning session, though open until noon, is pretty much over by 10am and evenings don’t start until around 6pm. What will you do during the rest of the day? Albuquerque offers shopping, interesting museums, including the Anderson-Abruzzo International Balloon Museum in Balloon Fiesta Park; cultural sites including the Indian Pueblo Cultural and the National Hispanic Cultural Center as well as Acoma Sky City, a thousand-year-old pueblo about an hour away; tours for Breaking Bad fans; a BioPark with a botanical garden, aquarium and zoo; part of Historic Route 66 as well as the Sandia Tramway. Farther afield, you can visit Santa Fe or take a day trip exploring Northern New Mexico; perhaps take the High Road to Taos. (Use the search box near the top of the sidebar on this page to find more day trips.) You can book a Santa Fe walking tour with us or ask us to design a custom itinerary for you.

We hope that our best Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta tips help you plan your time there. And, we’ll say it again: don’t forget to bring your camera. The Fiesta is one of the most photographed events in the world. You’ll see why once you’re there. We came home with hundreds of photos. There’s something about hot air balloons that fascinates people. Seeing hundreds of them in the air at the same time is pure magic. Put the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta on your must-do list. Up, up and away!

If you have any tips to add to Best Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta tip, leave them in the comment section below. Our readers will appreciate them!

The post Our best Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta tips appeared first on Santa Fe Travelers.

“How much should I tip?” is a frequently asked question. As former hotel concierges, this is an area we know about. To assist readers we created the Ultimate Guide to Hotel Tipping. Knowing how much to tip for services can make all but the savviest travelers insecure. People seem to be even less sure about gratuities at higher end hotels and resorts where there may be lot of people to take care of. Go with your comfort level and don’t be afraid to over-tip. No one ever complained when they got an overly generous tip. Understanding tipping can take the anxiety out of the process so that you can enjoy your stay without fretting about what to give the housekeeper, the valet, the bellman, even the concierge. Hope our Ultimate Guide to Hotel Tipping takes the stress out of tipping.

Restaurants

The dining room at Nine-Ten, the chic, sophisticated dining room at the Grande Colonial Hotel in La Jolla, photo Billie Frank

When dining is a high end restaurant,  18 to 20% of the bill is the norm. Tip more if you have an incredible experience or deep pockets or service exceeds all expectations.

If you are staying at a chain motel or; low-end hotel, mostly you don’t have to worry about tipping. If you stay for a few days, leave $2 a day for housekeeping. Here are some guidelines for tipping at higher-end properties.

The valet/bell-person

The first person you see at the hotel will be the valet, photo/
Stephanie Diehl

The first person you are apt to meet when checking into a luxury hotel is the valet (he/she may double as the bell-person). These folks really hustle and earn that tip. Now, here’s the tricky part; do you tip on both in and out? A common valet tip is $2, given when the car is delivered. Some people tip at both ends with the larger tip when the vehicle is brought to them. The valet that takes your car is often not the same one returning it. There is usually more hustle on the return end as the valet knows you want your car quickly. Some people tip $1, some $10, $20 and even more. Remember, a too small tip or no tip at all is as memorable as a large one. Guests who tip lavishly are often remembered whenever they return.

or luggage assistance, give at least $1 to $2 per bag; $5 to $10 is reasonable for good service. Tip more for an extremely heavy unwieldy bags or if there are a lot of odds and ends on the luggage cart. A good bell-person will set your luggage on caddies and hang appropriate garment bags and loose garments. Before leaving he/she will make sure you understand the intricacies of the heating, audio-visual, telephone and Wi-Fi systems. Tip more generously for this kind of service. Sometimes, there is a doorman, a valet, and bell person. That’s a lot of people to tip. Often, they pool tips. The only way to find out is to ask. For parking, unloading and luggage delivery, tip $10 to $20 depending on how much luggage you have.

The housekeeper

The housekeeper at Post Ranch Inn works hard to keep this suite perfect, photo Steve Collins

One of the hardest, most thankless jobs in a hotel is the housekeeper’s. People sometimes leave rooms in appalling condition. The housekeeper is not expected or in fact allowed to move your possessions, so leave the room in a cleanable condition. A suggested minimum amount is $3 per day; $5 is generous. If your room is really messy and requires a lot of work or really trashed when you check out, leave a larger gratuity than normal. It’s a good idea to leave housekeeping tips daily in an envelope marked “Housekeeper.” If you wait and tip at the end of your stay, it might be a windfall for a fill-in housekeeper who has done your room once in a multiple-day stay. During your stay, the envelope is important. In many hotels, if housekeepers touch money left in the room, they can be fired. If you need something brought to the room; pillows, extra towels etc. a dollar or two is appropriate. If the hotel offers turn-down service, a few dollars is a nice gesture. If a member of the housekeeping staff does something above and beyond, tip accordingly.

The concierge

Want dinner or tour recommendations? Talk to the concierge, photo/Stephanie Diehl

One of the trickiest tipping situations is the concierge. A good one can take your experience from good to incredible. He or she is there to make restaurant reservations, arrange for tours, secure tickets to shows or concerts, make hair or spa appointments or anything else you may require. The concierge can arrange your entire visit for you. A good concierge is a better resource than the best guidebook you can buy. A guidebook’s information may be obsolete before it arrives at the bookstore. New restaurants come, old ones go, shops and galleries open and close, hours and days of operation of businesses, museums etc. may change. The book won’t know about the hottest new restaurant, club, shop, gallery or attraction in town and it can’t tell you what the current exhibition at a museum is. The concierge and their level knowledge can make your visit really special. If you need flowers or candy delivered or the right gift for that special person, the concierge will know just how to get it done for you. These special touches can make your occasion and your stay memorable.

If you’ve been working with a concierge prior to arrival, a tip inside a card or a thank-you letter is a great gesture. You may also wait until departure to tip. These people can be your greatest asset in a hotel. Dedicated concierges do not expect a tip, but they appreciate getting one. Base the tip on what you ask them to do. If it is dinner for an evening, $5 is appropriate. If they are making a lot of arrangements for your stay, tip $10 or $20 or more, depending on the amount of work involved and your satisfaction. Sometimes you spend a lot of time with a concierge and tipping may feel awkward to you. Personal gifts are a wonderful idea, but before buying something, figure out if it’s an item they can actually use. A bottle of fine wine is an appropriate gift to a wine-lover, but if given to a recovering alcoholic, not so great. Food can be a welcome thank-you, but what if they’re on a diet. If possible, find out what store or restaurant they love and give them a gift certificate. But remember, cash is king and your concierge will appreciate being remembered.

Room service

Don’t forget to tip for room service. photo/Stephanie Diehl

Room service is tricky. The hotel usually adds a service charge to the bill. This is not a tip and a gratuity may have been added. The attendant does not get the service charge, and the tip, if included, may be pooled by the hotel. An appropriate tip is between 18% and 20% of the food and/or drink bill before taxes. If the server sets your food up and goes above and beyond, you may want to tip them a bit extra. You know the server gets to keep this.

The Spa

The serene waiting area at the spa at Sunrise Springs Spa Resort in Santa Fe, photo Steve Collins

Many luxury hotels feature spas. If you are pampering yourself with a spa service, often the tip is added on to the bill. If it is, no additional gratuity is needed. If it’s not included, tip 18 to 20% of the pre-tax bill.

The pool attendant

You’ll get great poolside service at the Paradise Pool at the Arizona Biltmore, photo Steve Collins

If there is a swimming pool or beach attendant and they bring towels or do other personal services tip $1 or $2. If you order food or drinks delivered to you and a tip is not included, again, 18 to 20% of the bill is appropriate. If a tip is added by the hotel, give the server a few extra dollars. You never know if these tips go to the server or the hotel.

Shuttle or Car Drivers

The Grande Colonial Hotel in La Jolla, CA shuttles guests in an authentic London taxi, photo Steve Collins

Many hotels offer shuttle or car service to guests. You can leave the car at the hotel and not have to worry about driving (and parking) locally. It’s a great convenience when going out to dinner. You can enjoy your cocktails or wine knowing you won’t get behind the wheel on the way back to your lodging. A suggested tip for the driver is $2 to $5 per person, per ride.

All inclusive

A panoramic view from a balcony at Secrets The Vine in Cancun, an all-inclusive resort, photo Stephanie Diehl

If you are staying at a hotel where a service charge is added “to cover tips”, don’t presume that the staff gets it. If you feel that you want to tip anyone or everyone who provides good service, go for it. It will ensure great treatment during your stay. Here are guidelines for an all-inclusive property: $2 to $10 for room service depending on the order, $5 per couple buffets, $5 to $10 per couple for a la carte restaurants, $1 to $2 per round or $5 to $10 for the day for drink service whether you’re at the bar, the pool or the beach. Staff members appreciate the reward and often depend on it.

No tipping policies

Some places have “no tipping” policies in place. It is usual for the employee to refuse once. If you really want to tip them, offer again. If they refuse a second time, it may be that there job is on the line and you don’t want to get them fired.

Some people are pleased with service but don’t tip. They feel the trip is already too expensive and that they can’t afford to. If you can afford to stay at a luxury hotel, you can afford to tip; use our ultimate guide to hotel tipping as a guideline. If the stay is a splurge or you got a great promotional rate, budget the tips into your expense planning prior to the trip. At least, tip the minimum; you’ll earn good karma points. Hotel staff generally remember the generous tippers and this small gesture can make the difference between a good and great stay. You’ll be rewarded in subtle (and often not-so-subtle ways) for your generosity.

Was the Ultimate Guide to Hotel Tipping helpful to you?

You can even print out the Ultimate Guide to Hotel Tipping and carry it with you or save it on your phone for reference.

Writer’s note: Thanks to Stephanie Diehl of Travel Designed by Stephanie for her input into this post. You can find her on Twitter and Facebook.

The post Ultimate Guide to Hotel Tipping appeared first on Santa Fe Travelers.

My first green chile memory

Albuquerque food legend Mary & Titos is a James Beard American Classic, photo/Steve Collins

On a visit to Albuquerque over Christmas 1991 we decided we had to eat at one of the city’s legendary New Mexican restaurants — there are a few. We headed for Sadie’s on a Saturday night. We waited a long time with a lot of other would-be diners for a table. I perused the menu and decided to order the stacked blue corn chicken enchiladas smothered in green chile. “Mild, medium or hot?” our server asked. Not having honed my New Mexico heat tolerance I went for mild. I tucked into my food when it arrived and immediately began to cough. That “mild” chile sure was hot. I had learned my first green chile lesson: the chile heat is what it is and that’s it. If you are heat-sensitive, ask to taste it or order it on the side. Don’t have your food covered in it! In New Mexico they won’t take food back for being too hot to eat.  Even sour cream could not make this tolerable for me. That was really the only NM restaurant I’ve been asked what heat level I wanted. There’s good reason for this. Chile, like wine grapes, is beholden to terroir as well as the year’s weather conditions. Wet conditions result in one heat profile while a dry creates another. There’s really no way to predict the heat of a chile before tasting it. I remember one year when the hot chile one market was selling was milder than one that was marked as “medium.”

By the time we ate at Albuquerque’s Mary & Titos, another legendary purveyor of traditional New Mexican cuisine, designated a James Beard Foundation American Classic, I was a pro.

Learning to eat hotter and hotter chile

Green chiles at the Santa Fe Farmers Market, photo Steve Collins

It took years but I can tolerate fairly hot chile these days. My eyes may tear, I may cough and my sinuses clear up, but I valiantly persist. Working at a downtown luxury hotel helped me adjust to chile heat. Employees got free lunch. Most of my fellow workers were either native New Mexicans or from Mexico, as were the cooks; the hotter, the better! On days when the food had chile it was often too hot, for me but it was darned tasty so I persisted. Slowly, my heat tolerance increased.

Santa Feans will tell you the hottest green chile in town is at Horseman’s Haven on the city’s south end. While I would never attempt their level two (or higher) green, it’s hotter than hell, I do eat their next level down. It hurts, but I can do it. I felt really proud the day I conquered their green. It’s one of my proudest and best green chile memories. I felt like I was Queen of the World. I can now mostly hold my own when it comes to eating New Mexican green chile.

Colorado chile

Eating Colorado green chile at the 4th Street Diner in Saguache, CO brought on the green chile memories, photo Billie Frank

My second green chile experience was in Northern Colorado where we lived for eight years before moving to Santa Fe. Juan’s a long-gone Mexican restaurant in Loveland had wonderful pork green chile that I used to order and cover my shredded beef. It was heaven. Colorado green, unlike its New Mexican cousin, is usually made with a roux so it has a way thicker texture.

One of our favorite Colorado greens is at Mountain Shadows Restaurant, our go-to breakfast placet when we’re in Colorado Springs. We found this funky gem, on the east side of the historic Old Colorado City, area by accident; it was a fortuitous one! They sell their green in mason jars and it’s so good we once left with some for ourselves and to give as gifts. It’s thick, not overly spicy and really tasty. It’s true comfort food!

Colorado tries to compete with NM in the unofficial chile wars, but, in my opinion, it’s no contest. New Mexico wins hands-down.

Buying New Mexico green

Matt Romero roasting green chile at the Santa Fe Farmers Market, photo/Steve Collins

New Mexicans are very opinionated when it comes to their green chile and just about everyone   has their favorite. As mentioned, chile takes on the character of the land it’s grown in. The best-known NM chile comes from Hatch in the southern part of the state. They’re famous for growing it and their annual chile festival draws people from all over. Hatch chile the main chile that gets shipped out of state. There’s a lot of it, though as Kelly Urig, the Chile Chica, creator of the Emmy Award-winning short The Chile Film (La Sangre Roja y Verde de Nuevo Mexico, points out in her book, New Mexico Chiles: History, Legend and Lore writes about the decline of chile production in the state due to a number of factors.

Berridge Farms roasting green chile in Santa Fe, photo/Steve Collins

The most popular chile is the Big Jim, a large chile perfect for chile rellenos. Much of the chile roasting in Santa Fe comes up from the Hatch Valley. You’ll find green chile roasting outside most grocery stores as well as in parking lots around town. Farmers from down south set up their roasters site around town. Hatch’s Berridge Farms, owned and run by Urig’s family, sets up at the Rodeo de Santa Fe grounds on Rodeo Road on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 5pm during roasting season; they’ve set up somewhere in Santa Fe during roasting season for decades.

We’re partial to the organic green grown at Matt Romero Farms in Velarde sold at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Matt Romero mans his chile roaster all season. Chimayó is famous for its red chile. It’s allowed to ripen and then is dried and ground before use.

We miss not being in Santa Fe during chile season. It means our freezer won’t have green waiting for us all winter. The good news: Albuquerque’s Bueno Foods buys up copious amounts of New Mexico green and freezes it. It’s available in markets all over NM and shows up in markets around the country for those needing their green chile fix. But if you want fresh green chile, the time to strike is now.

It’s been fun and cathartic sharing my best green chile memories. Hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoyed writing them!

What are your best green chile memories?

The post Best green chile memories: learning to love spice appeared first on Santa Fe Travelers.

One of the perks of being a food and travel writer is that we get invited to events so we can share our experiences with our readers. When we got the invite to  the Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup last spring we were very excited.

Tom Lisa Perini of Perini Ranch Steakhouse cutting the prime rib photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

We arrived at Angel Fire on Thursday afternoon so we could attend the invitational VIP dinner at the nearby Happy Trails Ranch. We were shuttled from the resort to the mountain ranch, about 10 minutes away. There was a light drizzle when we arrived, but a tent welcomed us and promised to keep us dry. The welcoming bunk house was also a potential haven from the rain., but the rain was so light, almost a mist so it was possible to walk around a bit and check out the roaring campfire and the large barbecue smokers that Tom and Lisa Perini of Perini Ranch Steakhouse in Buffalo Gap, Texas set up to cook huge Wagyu prime rib roasts from Texas’ A Bar N Ranch. The meat, cooked perfectly rare and accompanied by WHAT melted in the mouth. It was a memorable evening, the perfect kickoff to a weekend of food and wine..

The Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup

The Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup was a series of events including food demos, beverage seminars and tastings as well as meals all offered a la carte. People could decide what events they wanted to attend and buy tickets. Some events, including the private dinners and the mushroom foraging event were sell-outs. Buy your tickets early next year!

The Roundup Grand Tasting

Duck tamales, one of the delicious offerings from the Santa Fe School of Cooking, photo/Billie Frank

The weekend’s premier event, the Roundup Grand Tasting took place at Frontier Park on Saturday afternoon. The first food station we hit featured chefs Jen and Evan Doughty of Santa Fe’s Palace Restaurant and Saloon. They had two offerings: a three-bean salad topped with roulade, goat cheese and orange mole and La Boca Negro. I was going to wait until after I’d tasted all the savories before going for dessert; I’m glad I broke down and tried this luscious chocolate confection topped with whipped cream and red chile powder. When I went back for seconds after tasting all the savory offerings, it was gone.

The second food station we hit was the Santa Fe School of Cooking where they had three delicious samples; avocado gazpacho, duck tamale with a tangy ancho and guajillo chile sauce and smoked trout in cucumber. Steve and I each discovered a wine we liked. I’m a fan of Sauvignon Blanc and the Santa Rita Secret Reserve from Chile was lovely. Steve loved the Enza Sparkling Rose from Prosecco, Italy. Other food at the tasting included green chile cheeseburger sliders made from A Bar N Ranch’s Wagyu beef. The burgers grill, presided over by BBQ guru Meathead Goldwyn, had the longest lines at the event. Goldwyn said that the meat was so tender it was falling through the grill grates so they ended up cooking it on griddles. California competition pit master Harry Soo presided over the station serving his pulled pork made for the excellent heirloom breed meat raised by Kyzer Farm in Albuquerque’s South Valley. Other food and drink purveyors at the event included Santa Fe’s Barrio Brinery, Bodega Prime, Zia Energy Soft Drinks, Enchanted Circle Brewery, Broken Trail Distilled Spirits,, Angel Fire Vodka, Santa Fe Spirits, Black Mesa Winery, Southwest Wines, Southern Glazers Wine & Spirits. We had a great afternoon eating, drinking, running into old friends and making new ones. We left sated and we still had dinner to look forward to.

Food and beverage demos and seminars

The weekend offered a host of food and beverage demos and seminars.

Meathead and Harry

Meathead Goldwyn and Harry Soo going over the fine points of BBQ, photo/Steve Collins

After a quick breakfast in the resort’s café on on Friday morning we headed to our first food demo featuring BBQ whisperer Meathead Goldwyn of Amazing Ribs and Harry Soo, pit master of the award-winning competition BBQ team, Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ. Goldwyn kept the group engaged with a running commentary while prepping A Bar N Ranch Wagyu rib-eye steaks he cut from an entire rib roast. Like the prime rib from the night before it was mouth-meltingly tender and delicious.

Next Soo cooked his award-winning pork ribs using pork sustainably raised at Kyzer Farm, The farm specializes in heritage breeds including Berkshire, Red Duroc, Old English Spotted and York hogs. The ribs were delicious.

Both Goldwyn and Soo shared great tips for the food-loving audience. Steve, who has been passionate about cooking with fire for decades (he writes a monthly column for National BBQ News), came away with tips and information he never knew. These guys are good! And both have great senses of humor which made the morning fun. The demo was followed by an optional luncheon which included the steaks and the ribs followed by a free Q &A so that Goldwyn and Soo could share their passion for cooking with fire.

Dutch oven cooking demo

Kent Smith and Mike Gilcrease showing Dutch oven cooking, photo/Steve Collins

Saturday we had breakfast and then shuttled over to Frontier Park for the Dutch oven cooking demo given by Kent Smith and Mike Gilcrease, authors of Dutch Oven Cooking. They thoroughly covered everything you need to know about Dutch oven cooking from buying the cookware and accessories to cooking with and caring for the pots all the while sharing their hilarious stories about   camping and cooking out. They kept the crowd engaged for the entire two hours. As they talked they cooked elk chile while their wives cooked corn fritters on a griddle. The men also each cooked a dessert. Everyone left the demo with a helpful handout with helpful Dutch oven cooking information and recipes to try out. On the buffet line on Saturday night I overhead a man  remark that he’d enjoyed the Dutch oven demo so much that next year he’d have to get to more demos. That’s a sign of a successful event.

Wine, spirits and beer appreciation seminars

Irby Wood of the renowned Jackson wine family talking about wine, photo/ Steve Collins

Friday afternoon, Steve, the oenophile in this outfit went to the Wine Appreciation Seminar hosted by Irby Wood of Jackson Family Wines (as in Kendall Jackson). The group tasted three whites (Benvolio Pinot Grigio, Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc and La Crema Chardonnay) and five reds (Chianti Classico, St. Emilion Bordeaux 2009 Chateau Lassegue, Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon and Yangarra Shiraz from Australia. Wood went over each wine, talked about the process of tasting and the unique characteristics of each wine. Steve went away from the seminar with a better understanding of both the language used to describe wines and the subtle differences between the varietals.

There was also a Spirits Appreciation Seminar given by local distillers (Angel Fire Vodka, Santa Fe Spirits, and Broken Trail Spirits). We got to taste their wares at the Reserve Tasting later in the afternoon.

Craft beer aficionados weren’t left out. Saturday morning brought the Craft Beer Seminar & Lunch. Attendees sampled New Mexico-produced brews from the lightest ales to full bodied Porters and Belgian Sours followed by a pub fare lunch.

Reserve Tasting and Silent Auction

The Reserve Tasting and Silent Auction, photo courtesy Angel Fire Resort

We ended the afternoon at the Reserve Tasting and Silent Auction. We tasted our way around the room. Besides wine, local spirit distillers and craft breweries were set up sharing their wares. I usually don’t drink hard liquor, but for some reason I tasted Santa Fe Spirts single malt whisky. It was really smooth. I could get used to sipping this stuff! We also sampled Angel Fire Vodka, made from “premium grains,” is also a good sipping liquor. Maybe I’m turning into a drinker! Attendees were able to bid on wine and other offerings on the silent auction table while enjoying the nibbles set up at a few food stations.

Breakfast, lunch and dinners

Special wine dinners

One of the sold-out wine dinners photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Friday evening brought two special wine dinners cooked and served at private homes. They quickly sold out. Santa Fe husband and wife chef team, Jen and Evan Doughty of the Palace Restaurant and Saloon. Jen was at the Rush residence and Evan was at the Hensel’s home. Each prepared a unique menu highlighting the A Bar N Ranch Wagyu beef and the Kyzer Farm Pork. We heard rave reviews from those lucky enough to secure seats.

Chuckwagon Breakfast

The chuckwagon, photo/Billie Frank

Saturday morning started with a chuck wagon breakfast cooked by Texans Roland and Sandra Saul on their Studebaker Chuck Wagon. Attendees enjoyed scrambled eggs, breakfast meat and biscuits cooked in Frontier Park. I sampled a Dutch oven biscuit and it sure was tasty!

Mushroom foraging and lunch

A bounty of foraged mushrooms, photo/Cheryl Alters Jameson,, Excited About Food

Another sold-out event was the mushroom foraging and lunch. Tom Bowles took a group of folks hunting for wild fungi in the nearby hills. Since Angel Fire has been getting copious afternoon rains lately there were a lot of wild mushrooms for the group to gather. After the hunt, he and Santa Fe’s Cheryl Alters Jamison, James Beard Award-winning cookbook writer and enthusiastic culinarian, created a delicious lunch featuring chanterelle and porcini risotto, smoked chanterelle salad with tomato-herb vinaigrette and grilled porcini-dusted Wagyu rib-eyes with red wine-porcini demi-glacé made from the foraged bounty.

Boots, Boogie and BBQ

Two-stepping at Boots, Boogie and BBQ, photo Steve Collins

Buffet fans loved the sumptuous Boots, Boogie and BBQ dinner held at the Angel Fire Country Club on Saturday night. The buffet offered a selection of BBQed meats that included three kinds of sausage, smoked baby back pork ribs, slow-cooked brisket, Caribbean Jerk grilled chicken Carolina-style pulled pork and New Mexico carne adovada with Chimayó red chile. A selection of sides including chile corn muffins, salads, , huge ears of roasted corn on the cob, sweet potato succotash, New Mexico calabacitas with heirloom green chile and baked potatoes with all the fixin’s The grand finale: a dessert table showcasing a host of sweets including white chocolate blueberry bread pudding with whiskey sauce, mixed berry cobbler, Key lime pie, tiramisu, and lemon lime orange cheese cake.. The dance floor was packed with couples doing the two-step. It was a fun evening.

Bloody Good Bacon Brunch

The omelet station a Sunday’s Bloody Good Bacon Brunch, photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

The weekend ended with Sunday’s Bloody Good Bacon Brunch featuring a lot of food along with Bloody Marys where people could add shrimp, cracked black pepper maple wagyu bacon  from A bar N ranch, celery, pickled pepper, pickled okra and/or olives. Or for those with tamer taste there were mimosas. Food offerings included a make your own burrito bar, a salsa bar, selection, a serve yourself selection featuring scrambled eggs, Cajun hash brown, sweet potato hash, breakfast potatoes, green chili cheese grits, a veggie frittata, pork carne adovada made with Chimayó chile, bacon ,breakfast sausage links and pattie as well as assorted pastries and breads.

Resort activities

The view from the Angel Fire chairlift, photo/Steve Collins

Angel Fire resort offers many activities. You can zipline, paddle board, golf, swim and more. We took the chairlift to the top of the mountain and enjoyed the ride and the panoramic views. Others brought their bikes with them. They were conveyed to the top by special carriers attached to the lift. up on special racks on the lift. There’s an extensive system of trails leading down the mountain. It was fun to watch these daredevils of all ages from youngsters to seniors navigate their way down the mountain/

We thoroughly enjoyed our weekend at the Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup. We came away with some great tips to use cooking outdoors, got to eat some good food, met interesting people and enjoyed the beauty of Angel Fire. We can’t wait to see what’s on tap for next year’s Roundup!

Author’s note: We were guests of the Angel Fire Food and Wine Roundup. Opinions are our own.

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Outdoor cooking demos

Meathead Goldwyn, the BBQ whisperer gives a Wagyu beef cooking demo on Friday, photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Join BBQ guru Meathead Goldwyn, “Barbecue Whisperer, Hedonism Evangelist, Culinary Mythbuster,” author of “The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling,” and California pit master Harry Soo of Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ for their Friday morning demo on how to prepare and bring their favorite cuts of meat to the plate. They’ll be using ABarN Ranch’s Wagyu Beef and Kyzer Farm pork. You can taste their food at the lunch event following the demo or you can join the duo for a free Q & A in the Zia Bar at 1:30pm.

Saturday morning Kent Smith and Mike Gilcrease, authors of Dutch Oven Cooking, teach how to prepare wild game in a Dutch over an open fire as well as how to clean and maintain your outdoor all-purpose cooking pot.

Next year be an early bird; this one sold out (there is a waiting list).
On Saturday morning mushroom expert and chef, Tom Bowles, will take adventurous folks hunting for wild fungi in the hills. He and Santa Fe’s James Beard Award-winning cookbook writer and enthusiastic culinarian Cheryl Alters Jamison will transform the foraged bounty nto a delicious lunch.

Dining events

Take in the mountain views on a chairlift ride, photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

Friday join Meathead Goldwyn and Harry Soo for lunch. They’ll be serving Wagyu beef and Kyzer pork accompanied by traditional BBQ sides. Sounds delicious! In the after noon they’ll be  doing a free Q &A in the Zia Bar.

Friday evening features two sold-out reserve wine dinners at private homes. Husband and wife chef team Jen and Evan Doughty of Santa Fe’s historic Palace Restaurant and Saloon are each taking over a kitchen for the evening. There is a wait-list.

Start Saturday off at the Chuck Wagon Breakfast from 8:30 to 10am. Roland and Sandra Saul from Hereford, TX, are cooking on their Studebaker Chuck Wagon.

Don’t miss the fun Boots, Boogie & BBQ dinner on Saturday night complete with dancing.

The weekend ends with the Bloody Good Bacon Brunch on Sunday morning.

Wine, brew and distilled beverages

Colin Keegan is bringing his Santa Fe Spirits to Angel Fire, photo/courtesy Angel Fire Resort

For oenophiles there’s the Wine Appreciation Seminar, the Reserve Tasting & Silent Auction and Roundup Grand Tasting. For distilled beverage fans, there’s the Spirits Appreciation Seminar on Friday. Like your brew? Head for the Craft Beers Seminar & Lunch featuring a host of brews and a pub fare lunch. Guests at Saturday’s Roundup Grand Tasting will enjoy world class fine wines, spirits and brews along with green chile cheeseburger mini sliders from A Bar N Wagyu Beef and pork ribs from Kyzer Farm.

Other activities

Take in the mountain views on a chairlift ride, courtesy Angel Fire Food & Wine Roundup

Saturday morning duffers can take part in the Bulls n Broncs Charity Golf Tournament which benefits the National Veterans Wellness and Healing Center and Make-a-Wish New Mexico.

Or take advantage of the activities Angel Fire Resort offers including ziplining, paddle boarding, disc golf, swimming and a scenic chairlift ride.

What are you waiting for? Buy your tickets, book your room, pack your bag and head for the Angel Fire Food & Wine Roundup.

Will we see you at the Angel Fire Food & Wine Roundup? If you’re there, come say “howdy!”

Author’s note: We were invited to the Angel Fire Food & Wine Roundup as guests. We’re looking forward to it!

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The mountains view from Mountain Goat odge, photo Steve Collins

The pet-friendly bed and breakfast, sitting on 20 acres at the foot of a cluster of majestic fourteeners (the Colorado Rockies with summits at least 14,000 feet above sea level), is a sanctuary for people, goats, chickens, two ducks and a “watch” lama. Hosts Gina and D’Arcy Marcell, Pacific Northwest transplants, make guests feel right at home. The main lodge has four guest rooms and two suites. In addition, there are repro retro trailers as well as a vintage one to accommodate overnight guests.

The accommodations

Mountain Goat Lodge offers two kinds of accommodations: guest rooms on the lodge and retro trailers on the back forty. Guest rooms include a full farm-fresh home cooked breakfast. Trailer rentals don’t include breakfast but can it be added for a surcharge.

The rooms

Tabeguache with it’s cowboy-inspired decor, photo/Steve Collins

There are four guest rooms upstairs and two suites on the main floor. Five of the lodge rooms/suites are named for the fourteeners visible out from the property. The sixth, Oberhasli, is named for the breed of goats roaming the property. Each balconied room has its own theme.  We had planned to stay one night, but an unexpected vacancy allowed us to extend for a second night but we had to change rooms. This was a good thing as we got to experience two of the rooms.

Our first night we stayed in Antero at the top of the stairs. The king-bedded room had everything we needed including an easy chair, a large flat-screen TV, a mini-fridge and a built-in desk, made from a slab of natural wood. The best thing:  a multi-plug unit on the desktop with ample plugs for all those electronic gadgets we all travel with. We love fresh air so we cooled our room using the ceiling fan and opening the patio door and window.

The room was pleasantly cool. With the door open we did get flies; it’s a farm, a very clean one but farms get flies. The good news: there’s a fly swatter in every room. Don’t want the flies, turn on the room-sized swamp cooler.

Antero’s décor paid homage to the great trout fishing in the Arkansas River which runs nearby. There were fishing rods and a net on the wall as well as fish folk art throughout the room and a creel basket on our desk. We appreciated the few unexpected luxuries such as the microfiber sheets with the satiny feel of high thread-count cotton ones, the rain showerhead in the bath and the Gilchrist and Soames bath products suspended on the shower wall.

We spent our second night in Tabeguache, across the hall from Antero. The cowboy-themed king-bedded room, a little smaller than Antero, had the same amenities included the well set up desk. We loved the log bed; it was almost like the one we sleep in at home. The western décor was whimsical. It was a fun room!

The trailers

One of the four repro trailers , photo/Steve Collins

Book one of the four repro mini-trailers set in a clearing surrounded by cedar and pine trees. Each compact unit sleep up to three; there’s a queen-sized bed and the dinette converts to a twin bed. While looking like they came right out of the 50s, the heated trailers have all the modern conveniences people appreciate today including air conditioning and kitchenettes equipped with a stove, refrigerator/freezer, microwave and a coffee maker. They also have outdoor grills. The tiny, efficient bathrooms are well engineered to save space; the shower is right over the toilet.

Back to the 50s in style, the restored Magnolia trailer photo Steve Collins

Want to be more authentic? Book the newly restored three-room (two bedroom) vintage Magnolia trailer set in its own clearing. This mid-century, 38-foot-long, 8-foot-wide gem, which sleeps up to five, features the original beechwood paneling throughout. the unit. It has a compact kitchen with the original sink and stove, a modern fridge and microwave. The compact bathroom has a bathtub/shower combo. The décor is mid-century modern. Enjoy the private front patio with its panoramic views. Don’t want to cook inside? Use the BBQ grill. It reminded us of the winter we spent in a vintage Airstream in an organic orange grove in Florida when our son was a baby.

The trailers are so popular they’re often booked up before the rooms are.

Breakfast

Breakfasts at Mountain Goat Lodge start your day right photo/courtesy Mountain Goat Lodge

Breakfasts vary from day to day. “I never know what I’m going to make until I get up in the morning,” said Gina, a force of nature. Yu can bet much of it will be fresh from the farm. Eggs from their chickens (and duck in spring); the birds roam the grounds freely. There’s also fresh milk, cheese and yogurt from the resident goats that also have free range of the property.

A professional-style espresso machine has pride of place on the kitchen counter next to a bright red Vita Mix. Gina, a former barista, delights creating coffee drinks for her guests.

She gave me a lesson in the correct way to order coffee and there’s a logic to it. If you’re having a hot drink (the default) start with the size because the first thing the server needs to do is grab the cup. If you want an iced drink, the first thing you say is “Iced” and then add the cup size. If you’re having decafe, that’s the next thing you need to say as the next step is grinding the bean. If you require non-dairy “milk” this is the time to whether or not you want whipped cream. To make sure I remembered this she grabbed a sticky note and wrote it all down.

When we arrived at breakfast our first morning we discovered a feast. Orange juice, lemon, ricotta, blueberry muffins; house-made yogurt with apricot preserves greeted us. There was coffee or you could order the espresso drink of your choice. Lattes seemed to be popular. The main course was a Caprese frittata, all ingredients including the goat mozzarella were from the farm. Only the potatoes weren’t raised here. The group was congenial and we enjoyed chatting with a Colorado Springs couple, retired military, and their twin college-bound daughters. Sated we headed off to savor the day.

On our second morning, we were greeted with the yogert, cinnamon rolls and huevos rancheros. As a Santa Fean I’m almost embarrassed to admit this: I had never tried this iconic breakfast dish before. Gina’s makes hers with with black beans and chipotle in adobo sauce (if you want the recipe contact us and we’ll send it). They were WONDERFUL! I will be trying then again but I think the bar may have been set to high. We spent our second breakfast chatting with guests from Texas who are at the lodge for 10 days. Mountain Goat Lodge attracts a very congenial crowd.

The animals

The goats

Billie with the baby billies. photo Steve Collins

There were almost three dozen Oberhasli goats (a dairy breed developed in the mountains of Switzerland and introduced in the U.S. in the early 1900s), a mix of babies and full-grown ones. when we were at Mountain Goat Lodge but Gina was about to give about half of them away. She wants to minimize inbreeding to keep the mall herd thriving. The adult goats were mostly mellowly, lying on the ground, but the babies, bustling with great curiosity, were all over the place. We discovered two lying in the sun on the hot tub lid and met a few on the stairs to the deck. They are curious and affectionate and give gentle head butts with their little nubs of horns. You can see the mama goats milked each morning and night. Most male baby goats have to be castrated unless you want them to breed. Rather than pay a vet, the enterprising Gina, woman, does it herself. “I learned from a You Tube video,” She shared.

The goats run free in a large field fenced for their protection both from the road and predators; there are coyotes, bears and mountain lions in the area. Pilar, an aloof guard lama watches over them. I love llamas so I tried to bond as but Pilar wasn’t having any of it.

Goat yoga at Mountain Goat Lodge, photo/Gina Marcell

Heard of goat yoga? I hadn’t but It’s apparently the rage. When I mentioned to my son that we were staying at a goat farm he mentioned it so I checked with Gina. They offer goat yoga periodically and have been doing it for a year. They put mats out in front of the lodge, bring in the goats and let nature take its course. The draw for goat yoga, a practice that started by accident on an Oregon farm, seems to be the mellow presence of the goats and their curious babies. People love when the babies climb on their backs during classes. Find out when Mountain Goat Lodge is offering a class and check it out for yourself.

The fowl

Brooding chicken. photo Steve Collins

There are over two-dozen chickens living at Mountain Goat Lodge presided over by a red rooster named Caliente. Gina doesn’t count them because she doesn’t want to know when one goes missing. She gets too attached. She collects eggs every day to use for breakfast. We visited the hen house with her and returned with a few eggs for the next day’s breakfast. The eggs are a wonderful array of colors depending on the breed of chicken laying them. There’s nothing like fresh eggs for breakfast! There are also two ducks. The female lays eggs in spring. If you’re a guest when she’s laying you might get duck eggs for breakfast.

Mountain Goat Lodge is a special place. Our time there was rejuvenating. I can’t put my finger on what exactly it was that created the shift. It may have been the goat bonding, it may have been Gina’s nurturing, whatever it was, I don’t care. We left feeling more relaxed and centered than we were when we arrived. Whatever it was, for us Mountain Goat Lodge was magical. Maybe it will be for you, too.

The greenhouse

The geodesic dome greenhouse. photo/Steve Collins

The small geodesic dome greenhouse is filled with vegetables, herbs, a few fruit trees and decorative plants. Some of the food grown here is used for breakfast and some is for innkeeper’s own

table. A 1,200 gallon tank complete with fish and floating plants helps cool the compact structure in summer and heat it in winter.

If you go to Mountain Goat Lodge

The very mellow Sookie, Mountain Goat Lodge’s resident dog. photo Steve Collins

Pets: Well-behaved dogs are welcome at Mountain Goat Lodge for a $20 per night fee per dog per night. The full policy is described on their website. The dogs who were guests when we were there were very well-behaved. While they must remain on leashes around the lodge there is a fenced run for them to go off-leash.

Mountain Goat Lodge is on US Highway 285 outside of Salida. There are highway sounds but they mostly die down at night an sleeping was fine even with the window open. For the ultra-sensitive there are ear plugs in each room.

Want to turn your Mountain Goat Lodge agristay into a learning experience? They offer classes including goat yoga, cheese-making, goat care and raising chickens. Check out the schedule or inquire about setting a class up.

Read more of our Colorado travel posts.

Author’s note: We were hosted by Mountain Goat Lodge for one night. We enjoyed our stay so much we paid for our second night when an unexpected vacancy occurred.

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The Abiquiu Art Project artists

The Abiquiu Art Project artists left to right: Shelton. Fritts, Hall, Nelson and Coffin, photo/courtesy Abiquiu Art Project

Walter Nelson

Walter Nelson’s striking triptych, Homage to Diego Rivera, photo/Steve Collins

The first stop is at Walter Nelson’s studio. He began is career as a commercial photographer in Texas the late 1960s. He was drawn to art but said he chose this medium “because I thought I couldn’t draw a straight line.” His photographic work included fashion, beauty, and food. “In those days,” he said, “if you could do it all, you did it all.” In 1979 he moved to New York City where he counted top fashion houses among his clients. But that wasn’t enough for Nelson. He was a fine artist at heart. He started working with pastels and gesso. The transition from commercial to fine artist was “a hard journey, it’s very competitive,” he shared.

He first visited Abiquiu in 1981 (and lived there from 1986 to 1987). He was drawn to there by the self-tasked mission of “walking in the footsteps of Georgia.”  He wanted to find the places she painted. He chased them for over 20 years. His 2014 photo-driven book, The Black Place: Two Seasons, in collaboration with writer Douglas Preston, explores O’Keeffe’s beloved Black Place (the Bisti Badlands on the Navajo Nation) with a camera instead of a canvas and paintbrush. Because the landscape is stark rock, mostly devoid of vegetation, he says there are only two seasons discernible to the eye: “snow and no snow.”

Nelson also paints bright canvases. His striking triptych, Homage to Diego Rivera, dominates one wall of the studio. Other works on view include his dreamtime series inspired by Australian aboriginal art. During the approximately 30 minutes you’ll spend at his studio, Nelson will regale you with tales of his live and work. “Walter is the real deal, said Teresa Toole. “His passion is palpable. You can’t be around him and not realize his commitment to this.”

Debra Fritts and Frank Shelton

The evocative Pilgrims Debra Fritts series, photo/teve Collins

Debra Fritts and Frank Shelton call a secluded property off a quiet country road home. It’s where they work and show their art in an intimate gallery they created. The then Atlanta-based couple bought their Abiquiu house in 2012 but didn’t move there full-time until 2014. Heading to the gallery and studios in what was a falling down former chicken coop (local lore claims was built by the WPA during the Depression), we walk past hand-crafted decorative cement walls and whimsical outdoor decor. It’s easy to tell someone with a great sense of design lives here. One of Fritts’ dreams for the property was for it to be home to the clay workshops. She now holds several a year attracting students from around the globe because of her stellar reputation in the world of clay art. “In the clay world, before the recession, I had my heyday of fame.” Fritts shared. “I was very, very fortunate; I was at the right place at the right time.”

She calls her work “narrative story-telling,” and as we walk into the small gallery it’s easy to see why. The first thing we see is her Pilgrim series, inspired by David Whyte’s poetry in a book of the same name. “Wow,” comes out of my mouth looking at these clearly articulated people with their expressive faces and postures. I’d love to take one home with me and the hope is tour participants will want to as well. Frank’s art hangs on the walls. Besides people who arrive via the Art Project tour the couple attract visitors who come to Abiquiu because of O’Keeffe. It doesn’t hurt that Shelton works as a guide at the O’Keeffe Home and Studio a few days a week.

One of the pieces from Frank Shelton’s Drop Cloth series, photo/courtesy Frank Shelton

We move on to the studio portion of the building where Fritts and Shelton maintain separate work areas. It’s really energizing to see what this talented couple is working on. For Fritts it’s pilgrims and her Lady of Shining Light, a series which is “connected to women of earth and sky.” It was inspired by a Puebloan myth about a woman of changing light at the top of the Pedernal (Georgia O’Keeffe’s special mountain) and by saints depicted in Catholic churches.

In Shelton’s part of the studio we view what he calls his “Drop Cloth” series, collages with “painting elements.” He’s collected old, used painting drop cloths which he uses as canvases. Before using they are washed and cut up. For his collages he uses paints and inks and also stitches on the cloth. The cloths are neither stretched or framed; he wants them to be loose. He’s also working on a series of doll-like clay figures he calls “Secret Keepers,” which incorporate paper, newspaper, tape, canvas and other materials that catch his fancy. Another project: small intuitive paintings. “You can tell by his sensibility,” Fritts says” that he’s really interested in light and space.” She calls his work “very meditative.” We reluctantly end our visit as we have two other studios to visit.

Doug Coffin

Doug Coffin’s studio is packed with his eclectic work, photo/Steve Collins

We first met Doug Coffin at an artist’s dinner in his honor held by Santa Fe art entrepreneur, Bobby Beals several years ago. We immediately fell in love with his art. Over the years we’ve seen both the man and his art in passing; it was exciting to visit him in his mesa-top studio. The studio is large and filled to the brim with past and present projects. Coffin is a prodigious artist and collector. Every inch of the space is taken up by art work, supplies and assorted flotsam and jetsam. We spy a witty installation: a toilet that hooks up to a TV set. Coffin is a bit of a mad genius.

He works in a number of different genres including painting, sculpture and jewelry-making. Jazz is playing in the background; Toole tells us it’s on all the time. She calls Coffin “a Santa Fe icon,” and speculates that he has more art in Santa Fe hotels than anyone else. She says that he’s been around a long time and everyone knows him, at least those in the art world. The Native American artist (he’s Potawatomi and Creek) grew up at the Haskill Institute (today Haskell Indian Nations University) in Lawrence, Kansas. At the time, it was a boarding school and his father the Athletic Director. Coffin arrived in Santa Fe in 1979 to teach at the now-defunct College of Santa Fe. He began teaching at the Institute of American Indian Art (IAIA) the following year; he taught there for three years.

If you visit Doug Coffin’s studio, don’t miss the bathroom. The walls are adorned with photos of the artist with some of the famous people that he connected with over the years including Liam Neeson, Miles Davis, Janis Joplin, Jeff Bridges, Dean Stockwell, and Dennis Hopper who was a close friend. There’s even one with Hilary Clinton at the Whitehouse when Coffin’s art was displayed there.

Currently Coffin is working to launch a dream project: totems. He’s been making these 30-feet tall sculptures for a while; now he wants to do a complex installation of them somewhere and is looking for an investor. “The pebbles in the pond on that,” he said; he’s waiting for results. He’s also working on Manifest Destiny, a 12-piece assemblage. He’s got a lot of other projects going including a series of 3-D paintings and some jewelry-making. Before we leave we go out into the lushly landscaped garden to look at the view from the mesa-edge. Then it’s on to the last studio.

Joseph Hall

Joseph Hall hard at work in his studio, photo/Steve Collins

Joseph Hall’s neat, compact Ringworks Studio is in a casita just steps from his home. He and Toole moved to Santa Fe in 2010. For years they’d lived on Washington’s Vashon Island and had a studio/gallery in Seattle. Clients included many recognizable Seattle names.

While Hall works primarily in gold to create his contemporary, fine art jewelry he enjoys working with gold (he uses at least 10 colors of this precious metal) in combination with platinum. Steel, silver and more unusual minerals such as titanium and tantalum. His choice of stones is based on the project. For his MFA thesis (in metalsmithing and jewelry) he published what he calls a “seminal paper” on using and coloring titanium, tantalum, and niobium for jewelry and small sculptures.

Hall straddles both the fine art and jewelry worlds, which according to Toole is unusual. He’s currently working on “sculpture for the hands.” Hall likens his work to the He likens what he’s working on to the work of the Supremacists in the 1930s. Hall says he’s always been fascinated by architecture and landscape and works these aspects into his art. Toole calls some of Hall’s work “pure art pieces.” When asked what she means she clarified. It’s something that functions as a piece of jewelry but when you see it you think “sculpture.” Much of Halls business comes from people who collect his work and are always looking to acquire more.

As we leave Hall’s studio we’re instructed to take a left turn to the end of the road which overlooks the White Place, a unique sandstone formation that Georgia O’Keeffe loved and painted. It’s the perfect end to our time touring the studios of the five artists who make up the Abiquiu Art Project.

If you go

There are two ways to take the Abiquiu Art Project tour. The tour is offered on Saturdays at 2pm and is $40 per person. Advance reservations are suggested. Individuals and small groups can arrange private tours. Contact Toole at (505) 685-0504.

Read more about Abiquiu:
Visit Abiquiu New Mexico: the gateway to Georgia O’Keeffe Country 
Georgia O’Keeffe Behind the Scenes Tour
Georgia O’Keeffe Country: following in the artist’s footsteps

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The people behind New Mexico Fine Dining

Bouche Chef Charles Dale of New Mexico Fine Dining, photo/courtesy of Charles Dale

Successful San Antonio couple, Jimmy and Jennifer Day, has been coming to Santa Fe for over over 15 years and have lived here for almost a decade. They’ve put down roots in the city. Both are food lovers; getting into the restaurant business was a logical step. And for them, owning four made more sense that owning one so they plunged right in. They first acquired the former Bobcat Bite on Old Las Vegas highway. Then they added Galisteo Bistro and approached Dale; they wanted him to oversee the restaurant group. Dale, excited at the possibilities of expanding his culinary wings (he’s been committed to French bistro food for over four years), was interested; Bouche became part of New Mexico Fine Dining.

In 2008 Charles Dale came to Santa Fe from Aspen to be Executive Chef at Terra, at the Auberge Resort’s Encantado Resort. He had owned several highly regarded restaurants in Aspen. When Four Seasons acquired Encantado in 2012, Dale left. He wanted his own restaurant again. Bouche opened in early 2013. He had, what many might call, an unconventional upbringing. Born in Nice, he grew up in Monaco. His father was a diplomat so Dale got to meet many of the jet setters of the mid-60s. Grace Kelly was his sister’s godmother. He apprenticed in New York City kitchens working with legendary chefs including Alain Sailhac, Jean-Claude Szurdak, Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse and Jacques Pepin.

The Restaurants

Bouche Bistro

Bouche Bistro, now part of New Mexico Fine Dining, photo/Steve Collins

Bouche Bistro, New Mexico Fine Dining’s flagstaff restaurant, will remain exactly as it is. Why mess with a good thing? Bouche has been busy from Day One. Offering delicious food, great ambiance, competent service and well-priced for the quality of the food and dining experience, offering a taste of Paris in Santa Fe.

A Mano

Will A Mano keep Galisteo Bistro’s brick wood-fired oven? We hope so! photo Steve Collins

What better name for a restaurant that will serve handcrafted Italian food than A Mano? The new restaurant is located at 227 Galisteo Street, in the space formerly home to Galisteo Bistro. “I’ve always wanted to do an Italian restaurant,” Dale shared. A Mano gives him the perfect opportunity  to do this. He hopes to have the restaurant, currently undergoing renovations, open in early fall.

Maize

Georgia’s bar and patio will remain open this summer, photo/Steve Collins

Georgia, named for Georgia O’Keeffe, will be gone. In its place: an eatery with a menu designed around Southwestern culinary influences, something Dale says he’s been playing around with in his mind for a while. Maize, the new eatery, will highlight the indigenous foods of the Americas. In addition to corn, squash and beans (the staples of New Mexico’s indigenous peoples, known as “Three Sisters”), the menu will include indigenous foods from South and Central America. Dale sees Maize as “an opportunity to take a fresh look at Southwestern regional cooking.” We’ll have to wait and see what these ideas morph into when Maize opens its doors sometime after Labor Day. Dale is excited that the current chef, Leroy Alvarado, whose ancestry is part Navajo and part Mexican, will remain at the restaurant. Georgia’s patio and bar will remain open this summer.

Bobcat Bite

The old Bobcat Bite to undergo major transformation, photo/Steve Collins

Bobcat Bite, on Old Las Vegas Highway about 15 minutes from downtown Santa Fe, closed in 2013. It’s sat empty ever since. It’s a bit sad to drive by the formerly bustling parking lot and see empty dirt surrounded by a chain-link fence. The Days plan to maintain the essence of the iconic burger joint that had welcomed diners, under different owners, since 1953. The original restaurant, which seated about two dozen, will serve as the entry to the new dining room which they’re adding to the back of the original building. The resulting 4,300 square feet will seat over 70. They’re adding a big kitchen allowing catering for large events.

The old counter, where a handful of diners sat on stools, will become the bar. Bobcat, which used to be dry, will have full liquor service. In the spirit of the original Bobcat Bites, the jumping-off point for the new menu will be green chile cheeseburgers. The Day’s New Mexico ranch will supply grass-fed beef which will be butchered onsite. You can’t get any fresher than that. The rest of the menu will feature what Dale calls “American comfort food” with casual ambiance. They envision Bobcat as a neighborhood restaurant; perhaps, like Cheers, everyone will know your name. There’s a lot of time between now and the projected opening in 2018 for the concept to evolve.

The revamping and recreating of three local restaurants is an exciting prospect for the thriving Santa Fe dining scene. What will New Mexico Fine Dining bring to the table? Only time will tell.

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You’re heading to Beijing but don’t have much money to spend. Or maybe you just blew your budget on a private car to the Great Wall and need to save money for a day or two. Luckily for you there are plenty of free things to do in Beijing. Even if you don’t need to save money here are a few things that every traveler should add to their list.

Wander the hutongs

Wander through the Gulou Hutong, photo/Adventures Around Asia

I’ve been living in Beijing for about two years and the hutongs are by far my favorite part of the city. What’s a hutong? The Beijing hutongs, known as “traditional alleyway streets,” are a massive complex of courtyard houses that can be found right at the center of the city. In ancient China, all of Beijing was covered in hutongs; now most are gone. The government has preserved some of these neighborhoods for residents to enjoy. But the hutongs are by no means relics of ancient history. I live in a hutong, as do many of my friends. Most of my favorite restaurants, bars and cafes are also hidden within the hutong’s alleyway streets and courtyard complexes. Take a few hours to explore these neighborhoods: Gulou, Andingmen and Lama Temple. Get lost in the local alleyways, spot old men playing chess or have a cocktail in a trendy street like Fangjia or Wudaoying. The hutongs are photographic gold; don’t forget your camera!

Take a photo with Mao in Tiananmen Square

Visit Tiananmen Square and take a photo with Mao, photo/Adventures Around Asia

Visit controversial Tiananmen Square where you can pose for a photo with the giant Mao Tse Tung portrait. While Tiananmen Square isn’t my favorite place in Beijing, it’s a must-see for visitors. You’ll see crowds of tourists clamoring for a photo with Mao (his portrait hangs over the entrance to the Forbidden City). Watch the flag raising ceremony while listening to a military band (check here for times). Arrive early in the morning for a view of Chairman Mao’s preserved body; while his mausoleum is open from 8am to noon they only allow a limited number of people inside. Be sure to bring your passport. While I’ve never had an issue, I know of a few people who have been turned away without one.

Catch a View of the Forbidden City from Jingshan Park

The view of the Forbidden City from /ingshan Park, photo Adventures Around Asia

After taking a photo with Mao in Tiananmen, I recommend walking around the Forbidden City and climbing the small mountain in Jingshan Park. While not free, the small entrance fee (less than 50 cents USD) shouldn’t be much of a deterrent even to travelers on a budget. From here you get a fantastic view of the Forbidden City. For stunning photos go on a clear day. If you’re lucky you may encounter groups of older Chinese citizens singing classic Chinese music. The view from Jingshan Park is definitely something you cannot miss on your trip to Beijing!

Explore 798 Art District

Street art spotted at 798 Street Art District, photo/Adventures around Asia

The 798 Art District, otherwise known as Qijiuba, is a must-see for street art lovers. While you have to pay for some of the exhibits the general park and most exhibition rooms are free. Once an abandoned factory complex, 798 is an art and photography lover’s fantasy. With graffiti art, statues, calligraphy exhibitions and more you’ll never get bored. The 798 is also a great place to check out Chinese street fashion.

People watching

Have you ever wanted to see 50 Chinese grannies dancing in unison? Welcome to China. Head to any public square at sunset and you’ll see what I mean: giant groups of grannies dancing in unison for exercise. While the dancing usually happens just after sunset, you’ll find any public square or park packed with people enjoying themselves in the late afternoons or on weekends. You’ll see old men playing Chinese chess, groups of people playing hacky sack as well as other outdoor activities. Parks and public squares are my favorite places for people watching.

Hackey Sack at the Drum and Bell Tower, photo/Adventures Around Asia

For afternoon and weekend people watching I recommend the Drum and Bell Tower and the surrounding area; for the evening, I love the giant square on Xizhimen Wai Dajie. You’ll find couples ballroom dancing in costume, giant groups of 100 or more dancing grannies, multiple outdoor karaoke machines, hordes of roller skaters and more.

These are just a few of the incredible free things you can do in Beijing. Try wandering around Hoihai Park, create your own Hutong photo walk or explore the inside of a giant Chinese grocery store. You’ll never get bored!

Richelle Gamlam is a travel blogger, serial expat and spicy food lover who’s been living in China for the last four years. She specializes in traveling Asia off the beaten path and loves trying weird foods no one else will eat. You can find Richelle through her blog Adventures Around Asia, or on Instagram and Facebook.

What are your favorite free things to do in Beijing?

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5 Free things to do in Hanoi

The post 5 Free things to do in Beijing including dancing grannies appeared first on Santa Fe Travelers.

Traveling can be pricey which often limits how people travel, where they go and what they do whilst they are away. Some cities are cheaper than others. Hanoi, our home for close to two years, happens to be one of the cheaper cities people enjoy visiting. And it’s always nice to know that there are lots of free activities you can enjoy. Here are five of our favorite free things to do in Hanoi.

Walk around Hoàn Kiếm Lake

The Turtle Tower Hoan Kiếm Lake -photo Undiscovered Guide

Hoàn Kiếm Lake is at the heart of Hanoi, both geographically and culturally. There are a number of legends on how the lake got its name, which translates to “Lake of the Returned Sword.” I read this version at the temple: a turtle rose from the waters of the lake and gave Emperor Le Loi a sword which he used to win a fierce battle before returning it to the turtle. The legend also explains the small Turtle Tower (Thap Ruá) in the lake which was built to honor the turtle. Tourists and locals alike used to enjoy trying to spot the lake’s resident turtle, believing that seeing her would bring good luck. Unfortunately, she died a few years ago; although your chances of seeing her probably haven’t changed too much. Even people who live and work near the lake seldom saw her.

A view of Hoan Kiem Lake, photo/Undiscovered Guide

A walk around the lake is pleasant and relaxing. People are often working out or playing badminton (perhaps Vietnam’s favorite sport). Whilst enjoying a stroll around the lake you’re pretty likely to get chatted up by students hoping to practice their English. If you have a spare five minutes, grab a bench and have a chat. You’ll get to learn more about Hanoi from a local and they get to practice their English: win-win!

Visit Dong Xuan Market

The crowded and bustling Dong Xuan market, photo Undiscovered Guide

Dong Xuan Market is the largest covered market in Hanoi. You can find anything from wholesale packs of socks or dried mushrooms to live fish. Inside the building it’s pretty hectic and can be claustrophobic. Head for the escalators in the middle to get a view of the bustle from above. Outside, the market sprawls through the surrounding alleys and streets. The market is a real look into daily Hanoi life and you can also pick up some awesome street food.

Visit the B52 Museum

A small remnant of the crashed B52, photo/Undiscovered Guide

Hanoi has several museums that are dedicated to the war with America but only the B52 Victory Museum is free. Like many of the museums in Vietnam it isn’t amazingly well put together but it is interesting to look around. The huge B52 wreck on the front lawn is certainly worth the visit.

Watch Chinese chess

Men playing Chinese chess in a park, photo/Undiscovered Guide

The old boys and xe om (motorbike taxi) drivers around Hanoi love a game of Chinese chess and they only choose the prettiest spots to play. Head to a park, temple or lake to find crowds of men gathered around a board watching as a game quickly unravels. The games are fast paced and intense, as each man slams his piece on the board followed by roars of approval or disappointment. One of our favorite places to watch chess battles is next to Truc Bach Lake. There are always fellas there having a game and it’s a gorgeous place to stop for a rest. This is the lake where Senator John McCain’s plane crashed during the Vietnam War.

Explore the Night Market

The fun, lively night market is popular with both locals and tourists, courtesy Undiscovered Guide

Hanoi’s weekend night market is great fun to explore. The streets in the Old Quarter are closed to motorbikes and cars on weekends, making it the perfect time to wander and explore without fear of a youth on a scooter hitting you. At the market, you can find all sorts of locally produced goods and souvenirs. There are great food stalls and you can usually hear buskers playing somewhere.

There’s a surprising number of free things to do in Hanoi; this just scratches the surface. If you stretch your budget a little you can also get in a bunch of parks and the botanical gardens for about 25 cents USD. While not free, you can do lots of things in Hanoi while spending very little money.

What are your favorite free things to do in Hanoi?

Charlie Metcalfe is a blogger, explorer and teacher. She left England, her home country, in 2013, along with Graham, her partner in crime. The two have traveled to 15 countries. They are currently living in Hanoi. You can find out more about their travels and get advice for your own on their blog Undiscovered Guide. Follow them on Instagram.

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The post 5 Free things to do in Hanoi appeared first on Santa Fe Travelers.