savoirvivre new york

ANNOUNCEMENT

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 08:00:00 +0000

Dear loyal readers,

I will no longer be updating SavoirVivre New York; instead I have launched a new online men's fashion magazine called GARÇON MAGAZINE that I hope you will follow me to.

I have been using Blogger for over a year and while it was a great starting tool, it has ultimately become constraining. If you follow via RSS, please update your feed to the new website. I have big plans for Garçon Mag so stay tuned for exciting things!

Thank you,
Adrien Field

Hugo by Hugo Boss Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Fri, 23 Jan 2009 21:26:00 +0000

Thanks to Barack Obama, we know what kind of change one person is able to make. Similarly at Hugo Boss, new creative director Bruno Pieters radically transformed the aesthetic of the mostly traditional brand, infusing a jolt of avant-garde flair.

Tony Soprano was famously a fan of the American brand on the show but it is unlikely he would be able to squeeze a single be-ringed finger into one leg of the models' body contouring skinnies. Powerful visual effects were created by jarring patterns that when juxtaposed sent the eyes into a frenzy.

There was a strong structural element that ran through the collection: from the Teutonic black jacket that was reminiscent of last year's women's Balenciaga to the dramatic straight lines and right angles, it had all the precision of a German mind.

One of the most powerful collections of the season thus far without a doubt. Amazing.

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Fri, 23 Jan 2009 18:11:00 +0000

'Austere' may or may not be le mot juste to describe the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter collection shown yesterday in Paris, but it does seem like a bit of the overwhelming global anxiety managed to seep into the design aesthetic.

Rather than the opulently luxuriousness usually displayed chez Vuitton, this season was more subdued and understated than previous collections. From the ragamuffin hats to the deconstructed boxy shapes, there was a definite feeling of departure from the 'international playboy' that seemed to characterize last year's collection.

Besides a few key pieces such as an immaculately tailored overcoat and a few trousers and tops, the collection doesn't seem like it will be easily translated from the runway to the store racks. The overall feeling was one of stultified stodginess where a grandfatherly look reigned supreme in items like a ribbed knit cardigan with oversized front pockets and unattractive button-up eighteenth century-esque bright orange jacket.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Versace Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Tue, 20 Jan 2009 21:53:00 +0000

Versace's Fall/Winter 2009 men's collection was an experiment in power dressing. From bold winter whites to grownup trousers and aggressively tailored outwear, the man Donatella no doubt in mind was the confident, mature alpha-male she's been known to attract--and be attracted to.

The clothes seemed to evoke a South American jet-setting baron with a budget to burn and status to uphold. It is a man stepping in and out of a chauffeured Mercedes to and from business meetings and power lunches at L'Avenue in Paris and the Dorchester in London.

There were a few faux pas like a white sweater with trompe l'oeil detailing to resemble a cardigan that looked frilly and superfluous as well as a leather drawstring vest--or vestige, more like it, from Versace's Eurotrash days.

Overall though, the collection was well edited and featured an abundance of envy-worthy pieces.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Gucci Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Tue, 20 Jan 2009 21:27:00 +0000

It's official: Frida Giannini is a goddess. Gucci's Fall/Winter 2009 men's collection was absolutely pitch perfect on every account. The attitude was punk-nouveau with anorexic silhouettes à la Mick Jagger and Sid Vicious.

In fact, a Mick lookalike was notably present on the runway in skin-tight leggings and black fur (first picture, left). Punk elements were visible also in a black leopard print sweater, chains and pants so tight they appeared to be liquid leather leggings adapted for men.

The collection contained the Gucci staples like slimly tailored suits, contrast collar shirts and cigarette trousers for a look that was both classically wearable and eminently cool.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:38:00 +0000

A reader might be interested to know that the first ever piece of designer clothing that I ever coveted was a black Roberto Cavalli crinkle shirt that I obsessed over online at Neiman Marcus.

My, how times have changed. Cavalli's Fall/Winter '09 show was a mash up of unrelated styles and elements that together formed a disjointed and slightly ridiculous collection. The Navajo prints were simply beyond unattractive and seemed utterly out of place with the rest of the collection, which had more of a gypsy/punk feel (a strange juxtaposition--I know).

To be fair, there were a few single pieces that stood out such as a green velvet blazer and a coyote fur trim coat. I give props to any designer sticking to their guns about using fur.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Neil Barrett Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:47:00 +0000

It's officially a trend: Goth is back. There was a minimalist vibe that ran through Neil Barrett's Fall/Winter collection, consisting almost uniquely of black and gray scale colors except for a rare splash of salmon on a jacket or pair of trousers.

Interesting trends were the high-cut trousers that ended north of the ankle to showcase what looked like leggings underneath as well as the pants with banded cuffs at the bottoms.

Barrett and Miuccia Prada must have been operating on the same wavelength as both showed inventive uses of leather, such as on a cable-knit-look sweater and the same effect on a sport coat. There were also the metal-studded shoes that were a hallmark of the Prada F/W '09 collection.

Also present in the collection were the alternating color blocks on everything from jackets to cardigans and sweaters that we saw a few seasons ago chez Marc Jacobs. Ultimately, the collection left something to be desired. Sure the leather sweaters were...inventive but who is going to go out and buy one? There just weren't any truly tempting pieces in the collection with that "must-have" feel--and in this economy where shoppers are more frugal than ever, will Barrett regret his obsession with innovation over consumer intuition?

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Dolce and Gabanna Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 10:23:00 +0000

Dolce and Gabbana's collection is usually one of the best trend barometers for predicting what we'll be wearing next season, but this season, one might have guessed that the Italian duo worked on the collection separately, then threw everything together last minute and hoped for cohesiveness.

Indeed, the collection ran the gamut--from beautifully tailored classic pieces like slim cut suits in dark hues to loud fuchsias and then quilted pants that looked like something so ridiculous only Kira Plastinina could have dreamt them up--there was a little something for everyone.

Admittedly, the quilting technique was interesting when interpreted in a slightly more subtle form as seen on a jacket above. The best and most interesting aspect of the collection was by far the basket weaving technique on tuxedo jackets--that gave the venerable old staple a renewed vitality and panache.

The collection seemed to have its mind in comfort: the quilts, wide legged pants and use of soft fabrics like velvets and baggy knits all seemed in divergence with the skinny-suited Dolce and Gabbana man of yore.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Prada Men's Fall/Winter 2009 Collection

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 19 Jan 2009 09:56:00 +0000

It doesn't require a far stretch of the imagination to divine Miuccia Prada's inspiration for her austere Fall/Winter 2009 men's collection shown yesterday in Milan. With the recession on everyone's lips and ostensibly bleak times ahead, it's no surprise the collection was "back to black" with the color dominating nearly every article shown.

And speaking of domination--let's talk the dominatrix/Gothic inspired studs and spikes on items long like trench coats, leather pants and ass-kicker shoes. The collection undoubtedly had a strong message: when times get tough, get tougher.

Even the models looked extra forlorn and weary, their bones cheeks practically ready to cut anyone who ventures too close.

In terms of tailoring: we saw the continuation of the single-pleat trend on trousers as well as several double-breasted suits that seemed to represent at once the corporate climate of greed on Wall Street as well as reference a sort of Depression era in the wide peak lapels.

Let's just hope our future isn't as dark as Miuccia imagines it.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Bundle up for winter

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 21:32:00 +0000

With temperatures well south of freezing today and no prospects for warmer weather on the horizon, those not vacationing in Saint Barth's or lounging on a Caribbean isle are piling on the layers to fend of frost bite.

This season, bold statement knits and heavy coats will both keep you warm and stylish in these Siberian conditions. If you're not up for the fur resurgence, try a heavy shearling like the ones featured above. Available on the high end from designers like Ann Demeulemeester and Dolce and Gabbana, one can also find faux-shearling for relatively low prices at places like Urban Outfitters.

Ann Demeulemeester, $2,399 (on sale) via FarFetch.

Get high

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Wed, 14 Jan 2009 05:57:00 +0000

If you're like me, you don't own a pair of sneakers (you consequently also don't work out). My aversion to the venerable shoe--that does serve its place in the locker rooms of Equinox and the like--stems from its association with a puerile lack of sophistication. For a long time, the sneaker represented all that is wrong with present culture: self-indulgently focused on comfort over style--conjuring up images of Ugly Americans with their fanny packs and khaki shorts trudging through the Louvre or Piazza San Marco.

A new wave of shoes is quickly changing this dynamic. With designers like Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme sending models down the runway in boxy high tops as well as collaborations like Neil Barrett for Puma, sneakers are actually fashionable and tempting. There is a modern rocker sensibility about pairing high tops with tailored trousers and a skinny tie that is as Pete Doherty as Pharell.

Just don't wear them to dinner at Le Bernardin.

Puma by Neil Barrett, $134
Rick Owens, $1075

Modern Alchemy candles

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Fri, 09 Jan 2009 05:49:00 +0000

Those with an unfounded prejudice against scented candles don't know what they're missing. While browsing the sales racks at LES menswear boutique ODIN the other day, I came across a very beautifully packaged set of candles. After smelling each scent--as creatively named as they are decorated--I chose Dia de los muertos (Day of the dead). It's characterized by a heady aroma of marigold and frankincense that "tantalize and evoke both the living and the dead."

The label's other fragrances include: Ex Libris, Salem, Coney Island, Boston Tea Party, Opium Den and others.

It's the perfect compliment to any dimly lit studio apartment with an exposed brick wall, almost assuaging the sadness over a lack of fireplace during these cold rainy days.

Modern Alchemy, $45 at ODIN

Dior ties

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 22:24:00 +0000

Maybe I am feeling a bit of bow tie fatigue after championing (ahem) the look for some time now, but there is no denying the perfection of these ties from Dior Homme.

Traditional but "sexed-up" with skinny proportions and subtly cool designs like paisleys and checks, they are the perfect accents to skinny jeans and a fitted shirt.

Of course, if you don't feel like shelling out $200+ dollars for a glorified piece of silk, a bit of vintage hunting will likely turn up something similar. Remember that wide ties can be taken to a tailor and made thin, usually for a nominal cost.

Dior Homme, $170-$245.

Compute in style

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 09:02:00 +0000

Be still my beating heart, is it possible? Goyard laptop cases. Ridiculous expensive? Yes. Totally unnecessary? Yes. Absolute luxury? Hell yes.

The tech and fashion world has not meshed so perfectly since Gucci created its own line of luxe iPod covers. All things considered, I'd rather buy the new macbook air than spend half the sum on an indulgent Goyard case, though I have a feeling that the people buying the latter don't have to choose between one or the other.

Goyard, $830.

Vogue via Geeksugar.

For those who like it dirty

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 05:55:00 +0000

Are you ready for the next completely inane jean trend? We've of course had ripped jeans, destroyed jeans, acid-wash jeans and now...dirty jeans?

Yes, you no longer have to worry about waiting to get your jeans dirty, you can buy a pair that already looks that way! I kid you not, behold this pair, aptly entitled, "Dirty Jeans" by Raf Simons.

Via Bblessing, $500 (ha!)

Shopping the eLuxury sale

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:49:00 +0000

LVMH's official online outpost of luxury goods, eLuxury, is having a big sale on some of its biggest designers: Margiela, Dior, 3.1 Phillip Lim and others. Here are a few key pieces to snag before they're all gone.

Maison Martin Margiela, $567 (originally $945).

Maison Martin Margiela, $717 (originally $1,195).

Modern Amusement, $245 (originally $350).

Acne Jeans, $135 (originally $225).

Michael Kors, $119 (originally $195).

Browse the rest of the sale here.

Ties with 'tude

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:11:00 +0000

What do you get when you combine the subversively preppy skull and crossbones pattern with ebulliently bright colors in 100% English silk? The quintessential dandy tie!

New York tie designer Vittorio J created a very limited edition set of ties for LES menswear boutique Michael Andrews Bespoke.

Remarkably, they are retailing for only $69, though according to Luxist, "If you like any of the ties in this gallery, you'd best call custom clothier Michael Andrews Bespoke today; no more than fifteen of each tie has been created."

Esquire's Big Black Book of Style, 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 07:09:00 +0000

Part book, part magazine, part lifestyle bible, the Esquire Big Black Book of Style is a veritable chef d'oeuvre of men's style.

At a time when most men's 'style' magazines are either slightly more intelligent, dressed up versions of troglodyte publications like Maxim (Ahem, GQ) or so out of touch that they are forced to fold (Men's Vogue), it is refreshing when something so researched and polished as The Big Black Book comes out.

Eschewing the debasing pop-culture crap, which is usually outdated anyway by the time a quarterly magazine goes to print, the BBB is a bastion of timeless style information like shoe care and "The two minute guide to matching patterns," as well as quirky lifestyle advice which ranges from essential "Seven tips of successful small talk" to deadpan (sort of) "How to grease a palm."

The photo editorials are also fantastic, both beautifully creative and accessible. Mark Ronson dressed in various tuxedos posing with a (gratuitously) naked model in a vast, empty apartment is masterfully done, even if Ronson himself has no connection with the camera and appears as vacuous as his environs.

Another excellent touch are the product/accessory photo spreads, divided into what "type" of man you are. A must see is the "Desktop" spread for "the character," a fantastically colorful and eclectic mix of items like an Hermès ashtray, Louis Vuitton cuff links and even an Etro mousepad.

The BBB might be an annual publication, but it's style advice is sound enough to serve as a guide well beyond any expiration date.

The Esquire Big Black Book of Style, $11.95

(Re)introducing: suspenders

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 02:37:00 +0000

For those always chasing the next trends: resurgence of ties, then bow ties followed by sweater vests, I now present a vestigial accessory so ironic that it was just begging quietly for a renaissance of its own: suspenders.

Yes, you do read correctly and no, I refer not to the curmudgeonly bland styles worn by that living relic Larry King. Instead, suspenders can add a jolt of style and panache to an outfit, especially when paired with a bow tie.

There are a few rules to go by when wearing suspenders: the first is that you wear them in lieu of a belt, meaning that it's one or the other. You can't have it both ways.

The second is that if your trousers do not have suspender buttons sewn into the insides where the traditional style latches on, then opt for a clip on. Hardly any pants today come with suspender buttons so you if you want them, you will likely need to make a trip to your tailor and ask for them to be inserted.

Also, like a belt, coordinate your suspenders with the rest of your outfit. Don't just throw on any old pair and expect them to work. The color rules still apply.

Lastly, unless you are very stylistically adventurous, wear suspenders only with classic-style trousers rather than jeans. They tend to work best with flat front pants that wouldn't normally require a belt.

Suspenders shown: Club Monaco $89

Happy Holidays!

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Thu, 25 Dec 2008 05:32:00 +0000

We'll be back shortly.

Buy this now

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 08:49:00 +0000

Shawl collar? Check. Double breast? Check. Slim cut? Check. Under $300? Check.

This jacket from Topman is a wardrobe staple. Embodying all this year's tailoring trends, it's versatile enough to jazz up a pair of dark skinny jeans and can be equally worn with a pair of gray or black trousers for a more dressed up look.

As a side note, the jacket is also 100% wool, so it's a higher quality than many of the other fast-fashion Topman products, hence the elevated price.

Topman, $280

Get into the groove

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 08:29:00 +0000

When the snow starts to fall and the freezing temperatures force you inside, one of the best things to do is sit in front of a crackling fireplace with a glass of red wine and some good music in the background. Instead of listening to "Dreaming of a White Christmas" on repeat, fill your slow nights with some equally slow and soulful classics.

Below is a starting point for reference.

My Baby Just Cares for Me -- Nina Simone
Body and Soul -- Body and Soul
Everything Happens to Me -- Chet Baker
I'll Look Around -- Madeleine Peyroux
Everybody Loves Somebody -- Frank Sinatra
Autumn in New York -- Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong
Moonglow -- Benny Goodman

Channeling Chuck Bass

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 00:56:00 +0000

Admit it, you watch Gossip Girl and love it. Whether you turn in each week for the drama or for Chuck Bass's impeccable and aggressively preppy style that frames his louche behavior, it's a guilty pleasure for many.

This 'boating blazer' is as preppy as they come and it doesn't require a far stretch of the imagination to envision the young Bass in this jacket by Scotch and Soda, a drink that ironically would also fit well with his persona.

The regal purple double pinstripes lend a patrician feel while the breast emblem patch recalls ties to the Ivy League or aristocracy.

The blazer also exemplifies perfect tailoring featuring a slim waist, peak lapels and the equilibrium of a two button closure. It's versatile enough for year-round wear, therefore one of the best investments to make in this economy. Just remember: dress for the station to which you aspire, not the one you are in.

Scotch and Soda, $282 via farfetch.com

Introducing Gaspard Yurkievich

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 00:16:00 +0000

Meet the coolest, most unique sweater you might ever hope to own. Made by obscure, hard-to-pronounce Parisian designer Gaspard Yurkievich, it impeccably exemplifies this season's focus on bold knitwear.

The material is a mix between wool and silk, which is both a soft and warm combination for the wintry tundra that has finally set in across the north east.

It is obviously a very avant-garde and fashion-forward, almost editorial piece so don't wear it unless you feel confident you can pull it off without looking like a resurrected mummy.

Gaspard Yurkievich, $544 via farfetch.com.

Buy this: Slouchy shirts

noreply@blogger.com (Adrien Field) — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 02:36:00 +0000

If you’re the kind of guy who works in some vague creative field by day and hangs out at the Beatrice Inn while smoking Parliament cigarettes by night, then these shirts were made for you. As I’ve stated before, scoop-neck shirts are an interesting trend development for men. These t-shirts are casual but still more interesting and distinctive than the ordinary crew or even v-neck variety.

Available at Urban Outfitters, they cost a very reasonable $22 and can be worn either layered with equally slouchy knitwear or stockpiled until the warm weather returns.

[via The Fashionisto]