tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34775146910042296792024-03-12T18:20:52.720-07:00Sawdust and ShavingsSelect information covering woodworking techniques, tools, suggestions, antique restoration, and Depression Era furniture.The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-85669127841290732132016-03-09T19:00:00.000-08:002016-03-09T19:00:16.841-08:00How to Utilize Pinterest as a WoodWorker<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bbtDz8Iy_oJ3xgUW73rE8PkYZsnqyeTB1FT8hdhXP_3sPKTAFzw1WvlUOLvNIHL1L9nduC46uYcp_PGwguoD6AkRwy1jrhTVrpzJTs8OSVci0cBZZ1MIYL1l8i7q7BTHun2zElEzl4sN/s1600/pinterest+logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bbtDz8Iy_oJ3xgUW73rE8PkYZsnqyeTB1FT8hdhXP_3sPKTAFzw1WvlUOLvNIHL1L9nduC46uYcp_PGwguoD6AkRwy1jrhTVrpzJTs8OSVci0cBZZ1MIYL1l8i7q7BTHun2zElEzl4sN/s1600/pinterest+logo.png" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Getting Started</h3>
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Sign up for an account at www.pinterest.com. It's free and is a great resource for a vast array of concepts for your shop. You can sign up directly through Pinterest, or through your Facebook or Twitter account.<br />
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Once registered and set up on Pinterest, you will notice pictures posted on your page. These are "Pins" posted by others on their accounts. If you see something you like, click the little red thumbtack on the picture. Pinterest will then ask you which of your boards you will like to post it to. If you don't see a board that fits your selection, make a new board.<br />
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<h3>
Start With the Basics</h3>
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Start with a few basic ideas of what you would like. I started with various categories, such a techniques, things I would like to build, personal items I have made, and even inspirational ideas. As you find your boards getting bigger, you can later separate them out into more specific topics. <br />
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For instance, I started with a single board called "<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/must-build/" target="_blank">Must Build</a>" and eventually broke it into separate categories for the <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/kitchen-utensils-accessories/" target="_blank">kitchen</a>, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/garden-woodworking/" target="_blank">garden</a>, and <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/workbenches/" target="_blank">workbenches</a>. Eventually, my kitchen board blossomed into <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/carving-bowls-spoons/" target="_blank">wooden spoons</a>, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/turned-bowls-and-other-vessels/" target="_blank">bowls</a>, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/cutting-board-ideas/" target="_blank">cutting boards</a>, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/salt-pepper/" target="_blank">salt and pepper shakers</a>, and <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/wine-stopper-ideas-and-wine-themed-plans/" target="_blank">wine stoppers</a>. I also keep a board for <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/clocks/" target="_blank">clocks</a> for inspirational purposes. I've never made a clock, but would like to keep a collection of ideas before I pull that trigger one day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzduapraepkNOWoVRIKV8JWKmuczVrTTKJ3zcxUE0Z9NIyio1yvGG-7NacKkSH8Rye_iTdS7uRwKv6h3ImNNoOX11b0uFsvN_V3ytxPWRTJjuR6R8IsIVLVz7lsrroub8h6mZzHttXCZw/s1600/pinterestboards.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPzduapraepkNOWoVRIKV8JWKmuczVrTTKJ3zcxUE0Z9NIyio1yvGG-7NacKkSH8Rye_iTdS7uRwKv6h3ImNNoOX11b0uFsvN_V3ytxPWRTJjuR6R8IsIVLVz7lsrroub8h6mZzHttXCZw/s320/pinterestboards.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few of the boards on my own Pinterest page.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Make your wish list</h3>
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Click on pictures or ideas that pique your interest. They do not have to be things exactly tied to anything you plan on directly doing, but things that inspire you to create. <br />
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If the pin is not woodworking related, you may feel a slight hesitation. Shake it off and click away, we all have other interests besides woodworking. In addition to my woodworking boards, I also have boards for <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/garden/" target="_blank">gardening</a>, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/you-go-grill/" target="_blank">grilling</a>, and <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/smithingmetalwork/" target="_blank">blacksmithing</a>, among other topics.<br />
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One of my favorite things to pin is <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/shop-made-tools/" target="_blank">shop made tools</a>. Before the industrial revolution, many woodworkers made their own hand tools, and there is a wealth of information on making your own quality hand tools. I hope one day to dedicate a few posts to just such a topic.<br />
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<h3>
Follow Boards, Not People</h3>
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One of the great things about Pinterest is that you can follow other posts similar to the ones you like. When you find a few links you like, follow these boards to get noticed of new links added to it.<br />
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However, I do not recommend following your friends or people at all in general if you are only looking for woodworking ideas. Just because someone posts some really good woodworking pictures, I double check to make sure they do not also have boards for cats, kids, or weddings. Not that I have anything against these three things, but they are the last posts I want popping up in my feed when I log into Pinterest.<br />
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Instead I decide to follow people's individual boards. By following boards I can keep the junk on my feed to a minimum.<br />
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<h3>
Be Wary of What Pops Up<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUFaxqrZFFB6H94baVWIav3jkmEQrEclm9S9uQK7kqgxcRo_q_3oXcg0Mp4cQWHfSftdwNmCmmC767QPY0WbrGcXi10W4AFVcOc82gQzNKlX6Fyu1WTdhLnB2c66_Wd6Jrj7-rReO3Ho84/s1600/pinterestpromo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUFaxqrZFFB6H94baVWIav3jkmEQrEclm9S9uQK7kqgxcRo_q_3oXcg0Mp4cQWHfSftdwNmCmmC767QPY0WbrGcXi10W4AFVcOc82gQzNKlX6Fyu1WTdhLnB2c66_Wd6Jrj7-rReO3Ho84/s320/pinterestpromo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You cannot escape sponsors, and Pinterest is no exception.<br />Someone needs to pay the bills for all the free services.</td></tr>
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</h3>
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So by now, you have a pretty good idea of the things I like to pin. Sometimes my main page comes up with some off the wall suggestions. These are the pins companies pay to have show up in your feed. You'll notice the words "Promoted By" next to a company's name. The biggest one I see on mine is Dollar Shave Club, but sometimes I see some bigger names pop up. What puzzles me when I see some of these pins is when they seem to have nothing at all to do with the rest pins in my feed.<br />
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Sometimes you will find pins in your feed that have awesome ideas. Before saving them, I sometimes click on the link to see what the actual web page looks like. There can be a lot of dead links out there. No worries, the pictures themselves can still be a great inspiration for your work.<br />
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Because most of my pins involve woodworking, every so often I will see a pin showing "Over 10,000 woodworking plans!" Sounds like a great idea, but many of these are scams out there to take your money and give you a bunch of ill-conceived or otherwise free plans available on the internet. There is plenty of free plans out there, and if you do decide to purchase some, as I have in the past, be sure they are being sold be credible sources. <br />
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<h3>
Get Back in the Shop</h3>
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Now that you have perused all kinds of great ideas, get back in the shop. Just like its nice to browse all day at a bookstore without reading, you may find yourself adding all kinds of great Pins without putting any plans into action.<br />
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I rarely build anything exactly like it is shown on Pinterest, but I also rarely find any woodworking plans I follow to the letter as well. In many cases I will print out the pictures from Pinterest and staple them to my shop wall. In the picture below, you can see a lot of turning projects I have posted right above my lathe.<br />
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Use Pinterest as a springboard for inspiration and great ideas, but be sure to get back in your shop and put those ideas to use. Don't forget to create your <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/knukelhed/idlewoodworker/" target="_blank">own board</a> to show off the beautiful work you make in your own shop.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtLHLwvI-Jw1yjszcf51kVTqmpv0k1Lm7Nc9SUc4ZMMumqB1xogjMKLiQlD-9buljUU8GDZZ7-bD2f7x-W99rCiMAZMdCML6UnGHDlpM3xbiJW27YrSBENsFAizYKpQ-SNd8Lh7acFPc0/s1600/shop+entrance+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtLHLwvI-Jw1yjszcf51kVTqmpv0k1Lm7Nc9SUc4ZMMumqB1xogjMKLiQlD-9buljUU8GDZZ7-bD2f7x-W99rCiMAZMdCML6UnGHDlpM3xbiJW27YrSBENsFAizYKpQ-SNd8Lh7acFPc0/s320/shop+entrance+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinterest is great for ideas, but be sure to get back in your shop to make things happen!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-29571691014069711372016-02-29T19:30:00.000-08:002016-03-01T05:08:23.254-08:00The Many Advantages of Wooden Spoons<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginlWSoTDoR9OAODoP2MqHaGoOQyCXCL3g32lY1ElxSH0rDyganOM5LsIZDbbof03IxUysW05vLFvQPOEcrmC_qG26xEQ9RhzlT1lv1Zv4JNaQl7O1X0irFKQC1PlY1ApCoe8TVNsg4LzR/s1600/egypt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginlWSoTDoR9OAODoP2MqHaGoOQyCXCL3g32lY1ElxSH0rDyganOM5LsIZDbbof03IxUysW05vLFvQPOEcrmC_qG26xEQ9RhzlT1lv1Zv4JNaQl7O1X0irFKQC1PlY1ApCoe8TVNsg4LzR/s320/egypt.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Egyptian wooden spoons at the Louvre in Paris.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Wooden spoons have been a staple in the kitchen since there was nothing more than an open fire with a cauldron. Wood was the most readily available resource to early man for making spoons, and could easily be fashioned into a concave surface with a handle. Samples of wood spoons have been found from both the ancient Greek and Egyptian civilizations, proving their use from the advent of advanced civilization.<br />
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So how does the modern wooden spoon, after tens of thousands of years later, still find its way into the modern home? The answer is simple - when cared for properly, wooden spoons still offer many advantages over the competition.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXxdYqlBdmHbC5LY7kbEfSpO2vi3SzemFEwc6J3dgJSfsCabjeSFzC0a6kPV8uDOlQEH4O_frQ5yffGfixilbwEwebVfOG4gZ1t-Rl27RcdRFmrlB7R2d1-MNjTK_rIyzWuFHkZCgQN9M/s1600/meltedspoon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXxdYqlBdmHbC5LY7kbEfSpO2vi3SzemFEwc6J3dgJSfsCabjeSFzC0a6kPV8uDOlQEH4O_frQ5yffGfixilbwEwebVfOG4gZ1t-Rl27RcdRFmrlB7R2d1-MNjTK_rIyzWuFHkZCgQN9M/s200/meltedspoon.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic spoons can melt if left in a pot</td></tr>
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<h3>
<b>Durability</b></h3>
Wooden spoons can last a long time is cared for properly. Hand washing between uses, a simple coat of oil now and then, and coating them with a wax product, such as <a href="https://squareup.com/market/joseph-scharl/c-cutting-board-conditioner" target="_blank">cutting board conditioner</a> will keep your wooden spoons in tip top shape for years to come. Never put them in a dishwasher, as the extreme heat in the drying process of the modern dishwasher will destroy any wooden items, causing them to crack.<br />
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<h3>
<b>Ergonomics</b></h3>
The size and shape of wooden spoons are appealing for the long term use of constant stirring or mixing. The flat handles of most metal spoons do not compare to the much large handles with rounded edges, and may cause quicker fatigue with extended use and operation.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4mDxQ5EjmktYtHtc9iQHzCQU0qYaF1qzx5fOmewAiEGkbs6G2CImbdmrsMAdbeAnjnZjQjmAuIi5CEPND9jRgxviIm0Gj0fyZF92cOOXzJPmsbxeg9x6L7-8mfA304CjPH1q3nTgm_Gl2/s1600/hotspoon.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="81" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4mDxQ5EjmktYtHtc9iQHzCQU0qYaF1qzx5fOmewAiEGkbs6G2CImbdmrsMAdbeAnjnZjQjmAuIi5CEPND9jRgxviIm0Gj0fyZF92cOOXzJPmsbxeg9x6L7-8mfA304CjPH1q3nTgm_Gl2/s200/hotspoon.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metal spoons can get hot really fast if left in a pot.</td></tr>
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<h3>
<b>Low Conductors of Heat</b></h3>
Unlike the metal cousins, wooden spoons will not get hot if you leave them in in the pot when you cook. While plastic spoons are also poor conductors of electricity, they can melt when exposed to extreme temperatures either in your pot or when submerged in hot oil.<br />
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<h3>
<b>Flexibility</b></h3>
When we talk about the flexibility of wooden spoons, we are not specifically referring to their ability to bend. Wooden spoons can be used in cast iron, non-stick cookware, and in other metal pans. They will not scratch the most popular cookware surfaces, prolonging the life of your pots and pans.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L8nc3Byo_xXpyPcdtl9tuOtpu0O_-ymHj1t1H1j4e0dunfYidmt52bTPUCULZAWiMsxO5HikHOTDmXfEVvlq7UyviZKGcjazTDC4Vy6OKRZItfzLmQqi-Kp-B4ZZrNs6G1ZakukEPrK_/s1600/IMG_2601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L8nc3Byo_xXpyPcdtl9tuOtpu0O_-ymHj1t1H1j4e0dunfYidmt52bTPUCULZAWiMsxO5HikHOTDmXfEVvlq7UyviZKGcjazTDC4Vy6OKRZItfzLmQqi-Kp-B4ZZrNs6G1ZakukEPrK_/s200/IMG_2601.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always be sure to properly care for your wood <br />
spoons. Wash them regularly, and coat them <br />
with oil and<a href="https://squareup.com/market/joseph-scharl/c-cutting-board-conditioner" target="_blank"> wood conditioner</a>.</td></tr>
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<h3>
<b><br /></b></h3>
<h3>
<b>Beauty and Aesthetics</b></h3>
The gorgeous beauty of wood lending itself to a warm and inviting atmosphere in the kitchen. All aesthetics influence our mood and behaviors, and wood is no different. While it may sound a bit hokey, it definitely true. The more wood and earth-type textures appeal to your senses, the more you will enjoy cooking when using wooden spoons.<br />
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<h3>
<b><br /></b></h3>
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<b><br /></b></h3>
<h3>
<b>Variety</b></h3>
Just like their metal cousins, wooden spoons come in a variety of shapes and sizes - except you can find even more variety with wooden spoons. Think outside the big box store and their standard low end wooden spoons. The local spoon carving artisan will have the ability to provide you the perfect size and shape of spoon you are looking for.<br />
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<h3>
<b>Function</b></h3>
An watched pot never boils, but leave it alone unwatched too long and it could boil over. Laying a wooden spoon across the top of the pot will prevent it from boiling over. The lazy chef in me has tested this theory with great results.<br />
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<h3>
Where to Get a Good Wooden Spoon</h3>
Once you hold a highly functional and classy wooden spoon in your hand, you can understand who its the choice of so many professional chefs in their own kitchen. The next time you visit your local craft show, stop by your local wood worker's booth, and ask about the wooden spoons he or she offers for sale. Or, send me an email at <a href="mailto:idlewoodworker@gmail.com">idlewoodworker@gmail.com</a> for a custom made wooden spoon at a fair price.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCC_bfYjB2M4-2zaQk3XD91MlaiPfLIg46BQ8VCsDLeI4XxeBaDjZ6GQrdw2nYqVzdsCd4mt0TPu8ebPiGtGFFoliz33zBIHATRF_Wm9THEieWd3IzdRcPQQI4uZWMatP97ydC9TrpWGDM/s1600/spoon+process.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCC_bfYjB2M4-2zaQk3XD91MlaiPfLIg46BQ8VCsDLeI4XxeBaDjZ6GQrdw2nYqVzdsCd4mt0TPu8ebPiGtGFFoliz33zBIHATRF_Wm9THEieWd3IzdRcPQQI4uZWMatP97ydC9TrpWGDM/s320/spoon+process.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spoon carving is a true art, and there are people who dedicate<br />
their whole craft to it. Pictured above is some tools used to carve <br />
wooden spoons and a few spoons I had in the process of being carved.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-39112806423819963792014-02-22T07:40:00.000-08:002014-06-23T06:36:54.038-07:00My Favorite WoodsWhen I first started woodworking many years ago, I exclusively used 2x4s, 1x6s, and sometimes sheets of cheap, low-grade plywood because they fell into my budget. As an added bonus, it wouldn't break the bank if I had to buy a few more pieces because I screwed something up in cutting. The cheap everyday 2x4s you find in home store are usually made from spruce, not the best wood, but something great to learn on and keep a budget low. These boards aren't really designed for fine wood working, more structural and framing work. (So don't expect every board to be straight, have no knots, or be warp-free.)<br />
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When I started making cutting boards and scrolling, I decided to try a few other different, more expensive woods. Although the wood does cost a lot more, I find not only the quality of the finished product, but also the ease with which some of these woods work make them worth the extra money.<br />
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<h4>
Maple</h4>
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Nothing beats the creamy texture of Maple for a clean, professional look. No only is maple great for kitchen cabinets, it is my preferred base wood for all of the cutting boards I make. Maple is a durable, tight-grained, and has tremendous antimicrobial properties, which makes it ideal for kitchen utensils and wooden bowls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1srFzkyeN16IPFy0mFXwW-xnD47azKEqXzdEi_GnBgAb_qfBbxZr41-Vk7Av_79dWvJjSZOtb84fbkGaKkB1YHWKQ4KrUeH4DgIh9XeSxBr3XsqTy2LegRKxBSYnCrg_9Hu6MlodU2nj/s1600/1017459_10201712705085914_679944750_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1srFzkyeN16IPFy0mFXwW-xnD47azKEqXzdEi_GnBgAb_qfBbxZr41-Vk7Av_79dWvJjSZOtb84fbkGaKkB1YHWKQ4KrUeH4DgIh9XeSxBr3XsqTy2LegRKxBSYnCrg_9Hu6MlodU2nj/s1600/1017459_10201712705085914_679944750_n.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A maple bowl set up on the lathe.</td></tr>
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Maple also looks great in furniture, and can brighten up any room if left natural (unstained). Plus, how many other woods also produce a sap that tastes great with butter on your breakfast waffle.<br />
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Although I almost exclusively use hard maple, it comes in many other varieties such as soft, silver, black, and big leaf. Depending on the tree, you may also hit a gold mine with irregular figuring, such as birds eye, curly, and tiger.<br />
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Purpleheart</h4>
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Over eight years ago, when I first started making cutting boards, I stumbled on a rich, purple wood while at my local hardwood dealer. Known as purpleheart, it is imported to the US from anywhere from Mexico to Brazil. Purpleheart is usually straight grained and very hard. Because of its price, I usually only use purpleheart wood for small turnings or as an accent color to large pieces. <br />
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There are two things about purpleheart wood I find very interesting as a wood worker. First, it does very well around moisture and is fairly rot resistance. Also, its color is very sensitive to the exposure of UV rays. When it is first cut, it is a very deep brown-gray color. After a day or so exposed to sunlight, it turns the beautiful purple color most of us are familiar with. After quite some time (a few years) it can turn either a deep, dark, almost black color, or dark gray. This would all depend on exposure to the elements and if the wood was coated with anything. One way to protect the beautiful purple color would be to use a UV-protected finish, such as a spar urethane.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU44zPcyH_6Y4sN3ahyphenhyphen_PUzUsk93QhAj-lW-9ofkJAk6U3mQnAocHvmHap_rm3rKUpXdW9vcLumUrSB0I2DBNs4HZy4DfBDnc-3sY9MH2Dt33jllBXUyBvPiN8o7OLi8fl5otN4XSesQaJ/s1600/ark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU44zPcyH_6Y4sN3ahyphenhyphen_PUzUsk93QhAj-lW-9ofkJAk6U3mQnAocHvmHap_rm3rKUpXdW9vcLumUrSB0I2DBNs4HZy4DfBDnc-3sY9MH2Dt33jllBXUyBvPiN8o7OLi8fl5otN4XSesQaJ/s320/ark.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Animals for a Noah's Ark display, the elephant in Purpleheart and the male lion in Walnut.</td></tr>
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Walnut</h4>
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Walnut is an American classic, and was widely used for furniture during the time of American Colonization. Although primarily a very rich deep brown color, the sapwood is extremely light in color and the heartwood may have shades of purple and red mixed in the brown. It is common practice for a mill to steam walnut even out all of the colors into the recognizable brown color. Although there are many different species of walnut around the world, most walnut you find in the US is either Claro Walnut from the western US, or Black Walnut from the eastern half.<br />
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I really like walnut for the interesting textures in the wood and the deep brown color it provides. If you are lucky enough, you might also find some fantastic burl in your local hardwood distributor. Walnut is quite durable, works very nicely, and looks great without staining. <br />
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Mahogany</h4>
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Another species popular in woodworking during the Colonial Era was Mahogany. Mahogany was heavily exported from the Caribbean to England and its American Colonies during the 18th century. The rich reddish-brown hue and silky texture made Mahogany a highly demanded wood for furniture during this time period. As a result of this, demand for Mahogany furniture want up, and a couple of hundred years later the supply of this species dwindled from over harvesting.<br />
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A few species different from the original, but similar in look, are used today. The two I am familiar with are known as Honduran Mahogany and African Mahogany. Honduran Mahogany is much rarer and more expensive than its African cousin. Mahogany is still used today in the making of musical instruments for the warm tones it lends to guitars and other stringed instruments.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VXR2twqMqPrRswsjPONMvXBmxaSgcqCJYSZpIgcRhaPyHPnQMP1U8ZYO1ahYR8HKlnGfGWI12gPCeaQ1uag4vtI7s2sYooLG0Ghoz_9VO6m91IMOZuw3OC5sMogvEuHDaEordCGkq4af/s1600/afmah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9VXR2twqMqPrRswsjPONMvXBmxaSgcqCJYSZpIgcRhaPyHPnQMP1U8ZYO1ahYR8HKlnGfGWI12gPCeaQ1uag4vtI7s2sYooLG0Ghoz_9VO6m91IMOZuw3OC5sMogvEuHDaEordCGkq4af/s320/afmah.jpg" height="144" width="320" /></a></div>
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Mahogany is a pleasure to work with because it cuts and machines very easily while providing great rot-resistant properties and a beautiful finished product. African Mahogany tends to be my wood of choice, mainly due to its availability and reasonable price. Because of its higher price, Honduran Mahogany is often only used today by furniture repair specialists to replace the broken pieces within furniture during restoration.<br />
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-56457356302469629292013-06-13T07:03:00.000-07:002015-05-21T08:10:45.656-07:00The Farmers' Market Experience<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Olde Towne Farmers' Market</h4>
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Mother's Day weekend of this year I officially set up my first retail space at the <a href="http://www.portsmoutholdetownefarmersmarket.com/" target="_blank">Olde Towne Farmers' Market</a> in Portsmouth, VA. I wasn't expecting to sell much, just enough to give me a little extra cash and some money to purchase new supplies and equipment for the workshop. I stuck to a pretty basic layout and implemented a few ideas on ambiance from an artist friend of mine, Chad, who sells his blown glass.<br />
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Considering I did fairly well the first time out, I packed up my truck again this past weekend, and ventured out for Round 2 of the Farmers' Market experience. Between what Chad taught me, my formal education in business, and first-hand experience, the following are a few things I implemented.</div>
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Folding Tables Are Your Greatest Nemesis</h4>
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It is really easy to pack up your boxes, grab a couple of table cloths, and pop open a couple of folding tables to display your wares. That was my initial plan until Chad stepped in. After many years as an artist and getting "Best In Show" at the Gosport Arts Festival, I figure Chad probably knows his stuff better than I do. He was the one who taught me "Folding tables are your greatest nemesis." The logic makes sense - while it may be easy for me to set up this way, it does not lend itself to the unique nature of my product. Chad suggested I make pedestals and find other appealing ways to display my art. One suggestion I really liked was to find a unique way to display my wine stoppers using wine bottles set at different heights.</div>
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Showcase Items With Varying Price Points</h4>
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Many people may love your work, but either do not want to spend big bucks on your work or may not have enough to buy your really nice items. The coming weeks before my first farmers' market, I spent a little extra time making small items. Refrigerator magnets and small tins of cutting board conditioner were available right alongside my cutting boards and wine stoppers. I will try to think of more ideas of items to showcase in the $5-20 range in subsequent shows.</div>
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Everyone Loves a Sale</h4>
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A simple rule of economics is you can temporarily increase demand for a product by reducing its price for a short period of time - also known as a sale. In order for your sale to have a chance to be successful, you have to give a very intriguing discount, advertise it, and make it a limited time off. To try this experiment, I marked my cutting boards 30% off and advertised it on Facebook and with a bright yellow and black sign at the Farmers Market, so it could not be missed. While at the Olde Towne Farmers' Market this past weekend, the organizers told me I would be permitted to post any sales on their Facebook page prior to the event. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggg_PxEhapaFMxIusX92mxQgCzgAKQVZNlrE_Fk3M1CXKUisfNxHvGA96FHg0TJh7Qp9aYp1G3cskItZmu2z23Q1RJS_U5O4bmtT2I540nfUzXqUHHAQKTZHaOZuYdbDh0nkowNt8eAfhi/s1600/947372_10201439856224863_1864437840_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggg_PxEhapaFMxIusX92mxQgCzgAKQVZNlrE_Fk3M1CXKUisfNxHvGA96FHg0TJh7Qp9aYp1G3cskItZmu2z23Q1RJS_U5O4bmtT2I540nfUzXqUHHAQKTZHaOZuYdbDh0nkowNt8eAfhi/s400/947372_10201439856224863_1864437840_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As a result of the sale, I sold most of my stock of cutting boards, had an online request to buy one, and even took order to make a few in the coming weeks and honor the sale price. While I slightly reduced my profit margins per product, I almost quadrupled my sales from the previous month. Find me a business person who would turn that down.</div>
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About Portsmouth, VA</h4>
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For anyone looking to head to the Norfolk/Virginia Beach area, consider spending some time in Portsmouth. It is a very nice city with a small town feel. History buffs will love the many museums and ties to major events all the way back to the Early Colonial Era, as told by <a href="http://www.colonelcrawford.com/index.html" target="_blank">Colonel William Crawford and his friends</a>. For more information on visiting Portsmouth, go to <a href="http://www.visitportsva.com/">http://www.visitportsva.com</a>.</div>
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0Portsmouth, VA, USA36.8354258 -76.2982741999999836.6321403 -76.620997699999975 37.0387113 -75.975550699999985tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-14269283732515004782013-04-24T16:00:00.000-07:002013-04-24T16:00:00.060-07:00World's Only Reusable Tack ClothAfter working with wood for many years, you are always on the hunt for the quickest, cheapest, and most efficient methods to get your end result. When you finish your final coat of sanding, the traditional method of prepping for finish is to use a tack cloth to remove all dust from your piece. While using a traditional tack cloth can be effective, I didn't like their sticky feel, they could leave residue of your work, and since they are not reusable it could get expensive if you do a lot of woodworking. A few years back, I searched for an alternative and found the same rag I use when waxing my car was also a great reusable tack cloth.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBie6g0nXanhOjf3k6TDtSsgcS3NjXkp-RKZ45aDCczKHQ7kyFWVzcPqErg5WyqxVKHlXQdRCjXIsaZ8AXiGAgES5jBXcNtGFk41-L5OzM_KIxO4V9Atx13mbp3eISEAQ1i89u82LwKhm/s1600/IMG_2171.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBie6g0nXanhOjf3k6TDtSsgcS3NjXkp-RKZ45aDCczKHQ7kyFWVzcPqErg5WyqxVKHlXQdRCjXIsaZ8AXiGAgES5jBXcNtGFk41-L5OzM_KIxO4V9Atx13mbp3eISEAQ1i89u82LwKhm/s320/IMG_2171.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is important to remove all sawdust before applying a finish.</td></tr>
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Microfiber came on the scene fairly recently, but has already replaced many cloths for a variety of different reasons. Microfiber cleaning cloths soak up more wet material than other rags, are less likely to scratch, and pick up more dry debris as well. This last benefit is of particular interest in their application as a tack cloth. Their ability to pick up microscopic particles, such as sawdust, make them extremely effective for surface prep.<br />
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One of the nicest features of using a microfiber cloth as a tack cloth, is the ability to reuse it time and again. After a while, your microfiber cloth may become full and temporarily stop picking up sawdust. A few good shakes will release a lot of the sawdust and it's back to picking up more sawdust. This will only be effective a handful of times, so it's to keep a couple extra on hand. Since they are so cheap, you won't break the bank keeping a half dozen in stock.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHtbH9KNlQVAfnrktFuIzxTVCcY16HepIPZeNsSBpiJfoJDktDhw7vD_6A2rLIPEftWvz8b1ZgAIpRUbHYCjnxPc2CTymNMFQ963Q2XlVHOjxfhm66_3LgEGCzSNlT4EC3R3BSydTgwdc/s1600/IMG_2566.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOHtbH9KNlQVAfnrktFuIzxTVCcY16HepIPZeNsSBpiJfoJDktDhw7vD_6A2rLIPEftWvz8b1ZgAIpRUbHYCjnxPc2CTymNMFQ963Q2XlVHOjxfhm66_3LgEGCzSNlT4EC3R3BSydTgwdc/s400/IMG_2566.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice how much sawdust the top of this microfiber rag picked up.</td></tr>
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While microfiber cloths get the job done, there is still an ever so slight layer of leftover sawdust. I normally finish off my project with a quick wipe of mineral spirits and let it dry. I would typically do this with any method of dust removal, but I felt compelled to share this so as to produce the best finish on your handy work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_5q2_5fPnSXu3c74MKRuUBo6xm8blRtRz8WALwp0t3-YZNf29p-Clwre0_pcCpX5wygQe5r5VgUGclu5EpD1xtTEFndKhZjV8wKD72Q32Rp08uscOzTXV_BuE_X5SczK6YYcL15zXbjd/s1600/IMG_2565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_5q2_5fPnSXu3c74MKRuUBo6xm8blRtRz8WALwp0t3-YZNf29p-Clwre0_pcCpX5wygQe5r5VgUGclu5EpD1xtTEFndKhZjV8wKD72Q32Rp08uscOzTXV_BuE_X5SczK6YYcL15zXbjd/s200/IMG_2565.jpg" width="200" /></a>Besides being my favorite tack cloths, microfiber rags have many other great uses:<br />
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<li>Automobile detailing</li>
<li>Dusting furniture</li>
<li>Polishing silverware or other metals</li>
<li>Drying dishes</li>
<li>Cleaning photography lenses</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIUJHrCYmXsdMWrZfVDCpxHfV_JLWERtkZ4Iw7HdogF_dnjQO15L0ORz18CsfIn-cliOSrmnN7BsxwIsflD475R_FNfjY4jN1WUDERY7TnJny9UIIdacG5pabqLtMSk7jVA-aXFDFHA-ay/s1600/no-fabric-softener.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIUJHrCYmXsdMWrZfVDCpxHfV_JLWERtkZ4Iw7HdogF_dnjQO15L0ORz18CsfIn-cliOSrmnN7BsxwIsflD475R_FNfjY4jN1WUDERY7TnJny9UIIdacG5pabqLtMSk7jVA-aXFDFHA-ay/s320/no-fabric-softener.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
After your day is done, throw your microfiber rags in a washing machine with ordinary laundry soap. When drying, it is important not to use fabric softner, the static is what keeps these workhorses at peak efficiency. Many fabric softners leave a waxy residue that may also wreak havoc on the finish of your project.</div>
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-49454663062220002062013-04-09T17:01:00.000-07:002013-04-09T17:01:00.481-07:00Furniture Restoration Project - Cloning 80 ChairsAndrea DiCarlo's <a href="http://www.labellainghent.com/" target="_blank">LaBella in Ghent</a> is a true gem of Norfolk, VA. Every meal comes out to your table tasting great and its presentation is immaculate. Andrea's family has been in the restaurant business for generations, with recipes as authentic as teenage girl's crush on Justin Bieber. <br />
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It is because of this he surprised me when asking for help with a recent restaurant expansion.. I know nothing about restaurants except how to order a meal and eat the food, so I was definitely intrigued. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXbm9mjMbyzMLMsOmyhEyoAfk4LJCU88AystoyrnV7mbO-3eP15EEyX7CBnYtJ65hCVDlxFnWGRcxP-5uJ7chtVJ5UOmzymQuOJuH-JZ1aL_ddVoaL8P_QQXLGo8E78r7EnH4h0CKmHqZ/s1600/chair001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXbm9mjMbyzMLMsOmyhEyoAfk4LJCU88AystoyrnV7mbO-3eP15EEyX7CBnYtJ65hCVDlxFnWGRcxP-5uJ7chtVJ5UOmzymQuOJuH-JZ1aL_ddVoaL8P_QQXLGo8E78r7EnH4h0CKmHqZ/s320/chair001.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original chair with fish-shaped hole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
The Concept</h3>
<div>
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By expanding his restaurant, he more than doubled the indoor seating. We talked about the tables and chairs the was going to use, but he was really interested in one thing - how to take the eighty-one chairs he purchased and give them a unique design. Although the fish-shaped hole in these chairs was classy, he desired to create a more simple look for his seats.<br />
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A friend of his had carefully marked and cut the fish out of one chair to make a prototype of what he wanted. The idea was basically to cut out a rectangle around the fish to give the chairs a much more simple look. A great idea, but ho do you replicate eighty-one chairs to look exactly the same?<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1O8I9zxOlsfpdRvweOlYtuki-wC2dVzjp2k1pmvnseGBzy_fno0JVcCDf6MBuQYcLoM1380j2UqW2BWzjp19Embb7BrJb9nva0F5BU7kffdlf-2CI_kh6abOpciNRz28AbIPM3pjl7h8x/s1600/chair002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1O8I9zxOlsfpdRvweOlYtuki-wC2dVzjp2k1pmvnseGBzy_fno0JVcCDf6MBuQYcLoM1380j2UqW2BWzjp19Embb7BrJb9nva0F5BU7kffdlf-2CI_kh6abOpciNRz28AbIPM3pjl7h8x/s320/chair002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gluing the plywood strips along the curved back of the chair.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Sizing Everything Up</h3>
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<div>
In order to clone the chairs, my idea was to make a template to fit on the back of the chair and run a router with a flush cut bit over the hole in the template. Since the chair had a curved back, my plan was to laminate the template from 1/4" lauan plywood following the curved back of the chair. Contact cement was the best bet for a strong hold and a quick dry on the template. I used the prototype chair as a guide for my work.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1u89tSEjX9VIozLW2jH6x5ZTPLyKX8CKTm92I5AbNAEujfxlAJNThQ1r2L-pMTWBs1u2yH-0sHHMCOtYdYeV73FkvwuRX7l3BcxlRcWBZzlMn2ZK7_x4JEGIbpos51iurh-RELCrjltcy/s1600/chair003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1u89tSEjX9VIozLW2jH6x5ZTPLyKX8CKTm92I5AbNAEujfxlAJNThQ1r2L-pMTWBs1u2yH-0sHHMCOtYdYeV73FkvwuRX7l3BcxlRcWBZzlMn2ZK7_x4JEGIbpos51iurh-RELCrjltcy/s320/chair003.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An exact fit for every single chair.</td></tr>
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<div>
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<h3>
Working On an Exact Fit </h3>
The template also had to fit in exactly the same spot on the chair, not only vertically but also horizontally. After laminating two layers of plywood, I used firring strips screwed to the the template to create a resting point on the top of the chair. This way, the rectangular opening would be the same size and the same place on every chair.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZz4wxpWutq98V7ZKY0LjlB9LSy4HQ3bqysQ5gKc4N5BdMjNeO659Y0spfVIl6qz5shjTBTEm08qxi420VccEW5idxEKvLcxaEBxF6h6k1R5rHqITkffE_BxXpTVmxOSyQv32RLWkavPky/s1600/chair005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZz4wxpWutq98V7ZKY0LjlB9LSy4HQ3bqysQ5gKc4N5BdMjNeO659Y0spfVIl6qz5shjTBTEm08qxi420VccEW5idxEKvLcxaEBxF6h6k1R5rHqITkffE_BxXpTVmxOSyQv32RLWkavPky/s320/chair005.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New chair with rectangular hole.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Creating the Clones</h3>
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Unfortunately, I did not have the necessary time to actually route the holes for these chairs. Andrea's friend and employee, Victor, cut down all eighty-one chairs, stained the new wood, and applied polyurethane. The chairs came out looking great, just like the rest of the restaurant expansion. <br />
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If you ever get a chance to come out to Norfolk, VA, stop by Andrea's <a href="http://www.labellainghent.com/" target="_blank">La Bella in Ghent</a> to check out the chairs and enjoy some of the best Italian food. </div>
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com1738 West 22nd Street, Norfolk, VA 23517, USA36.871235 -76.29405836.668054 -76.6167815 37.074416 -75.971334500000012tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-27156093560672497672013-03-01T06:24:00.002-08:002013-03-01T06:24:41.024-08:00Cleaning an Oil StoneWith so many woodworkers today using Japanese water stones, slow speed grinders, and advanced sharpening systems made by brands like Tormek and Work Sharp, the classic oil stone seems to have fallen by the wayside in popularity. I personally like the oil stone method for two reasons, limited expense and low maintenance. In many cases I do desire additional honing of chisels or hand plane irons, but will just use fine grit sandpaper with water or mineral spirits for lubrication.<br />
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Recently I wandered across an oil stone at least 60 years old whose surface was pretty heavily clogged. It looked to be a nice stone and chose to revive it instead of tossing it. I knew there were two main things I needed to expel from the stone: oil and built up minute bits of metal. <br />
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Finding a Proper Solvent</h3>
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To remove the honing oil from the stone, I was going to need something fairly volatile with a low viscosity. Not only should this solvent cut the oil from the stone, it would also most likely serve as a lubricant to expunge the tiny bits of metal. It would also have to be fairly inexpensive, since I would need a good amount to soak the stone in. After a little online research, I decided to try using charcoal lighter fluid.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbI2LLOrpbf9I7n4t6ONCYOHzDRWllCc0z1Bh2loVq2yYYKVVEKMqS0IvYIzKsWwg_hjO0C2Twh3xSbq1NPb9wfng7vmSBnFPDesR9lnOge_gN6CxvXvn8bgdc2Q_7xXaBkLO3gLfas0v/s1600/oilstone1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPbI2LLOrpbf9I7n4t6ONCYOHzDRWllCc0z1Bh2loVq2yYYKVVEKMqS0IvYIzKsWwg_hjO0C2Twh3xSbq1NPb9wfng7vmSBnFPDesR9lnOge_gN6CxvXvn8bgdc2Q_7xXaBkLO3gLfas0v/s320/oilstone1.jpg" width="320" /></a>
Items Needed for This Task</h3>
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Old Oil Stone<br />
Cheap Plastic Shoebox with a Lid<br />
Charcoal Lighter Fluid<br />
Small Wire Brush<br />
Scrap Wire<br />
Safety Gear (goggles, gloves, respirator)<br />
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<h3>
The Setup</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Et5O0NmDWDXbBpH1O0cna5QGsBbTQ8NXRTKhcl1_NWr-hJgcWynJa8xVDXwL1ME3CvY_UP0FPv37LQhP8nyW_q-ofQ225mr22chaYSGdXJAntgPEO1wFr5aI4-PdBp5kly96OqpAzOOW/s1600/oilstone3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Et5O0NmDWDXbBpH1O0cna5QGsBbTQ8NXRTKhcl1_NWr-hJgcWynJa8xVDXwL1ME3CvY_UP0FPv37LQhP8nyW_q-ofQ225mr22chaYSGdXJAntgPEO1wFr5aI4-PdBp5kly96OqpAzOOW/s200/oilstone3.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Coil up the wire, pull it apart, and flatten it as much as you can, like in the picture. The wire will be placed under the stone to slightly lift it and allow more surface contact between the lighter fluid and your stone. Place the wire in the container and the stone on top of it. Pour the lighter fluid into the container and submerge the stone to at least the halfway point. Put the lid on the container and leave it alone for at least a couple of hours. It may take a while to work the oil out of stone, especially if it is an old stone. I left mine overnight in the detached garage.<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">*** Do not attempt this project near any sparks, flames, pilot lights, or people smoking. ***</span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;"><i>(They call it lighter fluid for a reason.)</i></span></h3>
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Much, Much Later</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRMK2-W7OrNx4F1NxSN48eRMbcSySLz_LG0SHexAyx3wfjjLjp1Yj_HXQ-FkOxSYf42cqd8Pkq5lOqb9RJWNLMPssfmNdPNSPu_zUUCcXjKGga_42fx3uCGwnUC6RKmCzWu5VrN_dmbqH/s1600/oilstone4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYRMK2-W7OrNx4F1NxSN48eRMbcSySLz_LG0SHexAyx3wfjjLjp1Yj_HXQ-FkOxSYf42cqd8Pkq5lOqb9RJWNLMPssfmNdPNSPu_zUUCcXjKGga_42fx3uCGwnUC6RKmCzWu5VrN_dmbqH/s200/oilstone4.jpg" width="200" /></a>After some time has passed, come back and check on your stone. Look in the lighter fluid for blobs of oil. I found some at the bottom of mine, even though the stone had sat untouched for decades. You might also find some very fine black or dark gray bits of metal in the fluid. <br />
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At this point, you may want to wear rubber chemical gloves, the lighter fluid can dry your hands out pretty bad. I also might suggest doing the next step wearing goggles and in a well-ventilated area. You may also choose to wear a respirator, the fumes can be pretty nasty.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3CMfOQ9vdwidExNtAgYMliJrVC4tp1tKDV4wJAmQsxWXNOV7Aams6AQbvTzPWCUyFcJ37wcVpiqqhJK0awWyg7VBa7dVu_wzXa65yuOF_Z8VkHxy9uA0ncd5GZL6f4rwyepkmiQxg1tqq/s1600/oilstone5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3CMfOQ9vdwidExNtAgYMliJrVC4tp1tKDV4wJAmQsxWXNOV7Aams6AQbvTzPWCUyFcJ37wcVpiqqhJK0awWyg7VBa7dVu_wzXa65yuOF_Z8VkHxy9uA0ncd5GZL6f4rwyepkmiQxg1tqq/s200/oilstone5.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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My stone was still caked pretty good, so I decided to hit it with a small wire brush. These are great tools for restoration and can be found with the welding supplies at your local big box store. Working it with the wire brush helped the gunk was slowly come out. I found the best method was briskly rubbing in a circular motion,dipping the brush in the lighter fluid to wash it out and keep the stone lubricated. The wetter you keep the stone, the easier and faster this process will be. <br />
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<h3>
Conclusions</h3>
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After a few overnight soakings coupled with scrubbing, my stone ended up 95% cleaner. I will say there are a few select areas I was having trouble completely cleaning. I think this process maybe good for regular oil stone cleaning, but is probably not the best for reviving a age old stone to its former glory.<br />
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I may consider coming back and soaking again, using a wire cup brush on my angle grinder if necessary. Then again, I may search online for another method just to try something different. If you have any other ideas, please leave them in the comments section - I would love to hear from you.<br />
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-16069455181230898282013-02-14T14:30:00.000-08:002016-03-31T06:06:28.621-07:00A Classic Hand Saw Like This Is Hard to FindThere was a time when most every household in America owned a hand saw. This hand saw was sometimes used for making furniture and cabinets, but the majority of the time it was used to make repairs around the house or build things necessary for everyday living. Electric circular saws were too expensive for the average person to afford, so the need for a good crosscut was paramount. It always had a comfortable wooden handle, was usually 26" in length, had a minimum setting of 10-12 tpi (teeth per inch), was made in the US, and it bore a medallion of the saw manufacturer on the handle.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I recently was given the opportunity to try out a saw that fit this same criteria, the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUJGY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002YUJGY&linkCode=as2&tag=idlewoodw-20" target="_blank">Great Neck N2610</a>.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWR91VD2kh9vgpGcT88wVQ6pCWkV7ki0spRVX3hyVkFmCRZ977xX1a_Pg_Yx9eKjlccFhQ6Vj__Hd_rCqPzcXmCdj35HNvHG7Gf9_ca_Eu45rE8fXDHDqLonW8mhCXPmcZt5OYrZ31IGsZ/s1600/N2610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWR91VD2kh9vgpGcT88wVQ6pCWkV7ki0spRVX3hyVkFmCRZ977xX1a_Pg_Yx9eKjlccFhQ6Vj__Hd_rCqPzcXmCdj35HNvHG7Gf9_ca_Eu45rE8fXDHDqLonW8mhCXPmcZt5OYrZ31IGsZ/s320/N2610.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
My Search for a Modern Saw</h3>
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Walk down the hand tool aisle of your big box stores today and you will find quite a few differences between the tools of today the classics of yesterday. Most crosscut saws today feature carbide teeth, set at 6-8 tpi, with plastic handles. They butcher end grain and are less comfortable than the saw our parents and grandparents used. I also found most hand saws today are 20" in length. These tools are made to use, abuse, wear down, and throw away.</div>
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The other hand saw option you have is to purchase a very expensive high end saw at a woodworking specialty store. I have no quarrel with these saws, they are very nice and high quality. Attached to the high quality is also a high price tag. It is relatively impossible to find a saw in this category for less than $100. My purpose was to find a solid hand saw the average American could afford on a budget.</div>
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<h3>
The Great Neck N2610</h3>
I emailed the Great Neck Tool company after reading a few Amazon.com reviews of this product. Within no time, they sent me a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUJGY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002YUJGY&linkCode=as2&tag=idlewoodw-20" target="_blank">N2610</a> in exchange for an honest review of their product. I was a big fan of the this saw from the moment I held it. I became a <i>very</i> big fan after cutting my first piece of lumber. Here is how this saw stood out from the pack:<br />
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Comfortable Handle</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BjBwFcl212wpeVgU2TvXpSFd7epIiExIEwgkYktyI5kz2gyd1gCgdw_rhtkqOoUUtnlslny8kjwj4eL-zJUKSF2oNQ-aa8T3ZmcfDHgTOqD5gFogyhHP4MS9GdUMujXjKpDN3J8gVzUx/s1600/saw-handle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BjBwFcl212wpeVgU2TvXpSFd7epIiExIEwgkYktyI5kz2gyd1gCgdw_rhtkqOoUUtnlslny8kjwj4eL-zJUKSF2oNQ-aa8T3ZmcfDHgTOqD5gFogyhHP4MS9GdUMujXjKpDN3J8gVzUx/s200/saw-handle.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The handle was large and made of wood. My hand slid in and it fit well, offering the opportunity to saw comfortably for a long period of time. I also found the wood easier to grip than many of the plastic handles out there today. Anyone who has ever done a lot of hand sawing will tell you this is probably one of the most important features of a hand saw.<br />
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<h4>
The Cut</h4>
When you look at tpi, you have to balance speed of cutting with the quality of the cut. The lower your teeth per inch, the faster the cut and the rougher the finished product. Although it may not seem so, there is a big difference between 8 tpi and 10 tpi. In my opinion, the best cut for a beginning woodworker comes from a 10-12 tpi saw. The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUJGY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002YUJGY&linkCode=as2&tag=idlewoodw-20" target="_blank">Great Neck N2610</a> was no exception, it cut effectively without shredding the edges of the end grain. A quick clean up with a file and some light sanding will leave the edge of your work ready to accept stain.<br />
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<h4>
Full Sized</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_aKE3Ze84IakpO6oLupfDHPJAfX7WhxRDqdoQN5iPl_jwOLDQ_diEXhVEQIwy5hHaSI-sfqVyyQ3fdtMuXlNi6yUZBHG3J0QBs8PjAZ0WVLTiw8at2we1sd-4IVXSYc8FLDhS5T-sqJ-m/s1600/26in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_aKE3Ze84IakpO6oLupfDHPJAfX7WhxRDqdoQN5iPl_jwOLDQ_diEXhVEQIwy5hHaSI-sfqVyyQ3fdtMuXlNi6yUZBHG3J0QBs8PjAZ0WVLTiw8at2we1sd-4IVXSYc8FLDhS5T-sqJ-m/s200/26in.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Apparently, I missed the boat somewhere. When did a 20 inch saw become the standard? To my knowledge, Disston Tools, America's leading hand saw maker for over a century, did not manufacture a 20" standard cross cut saw. If you use the entire length of the saw, a 26" hand saw cuts much faster than a 20" model. The full 26" length of this saw was definitely a feature I liked.<br />
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<h4>
A Few More Details</h4>
After speaking with a company representative, I learned Great Neck has been producing this exact same saw for about 30 to 40 years without any changes in design. Although improvements have been made to the process, the product itself has remained untouched. <br />
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Another thing which hasn't changed is where these saws are manufactured. The <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUJGY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002YUJGY&linkCode=as2&tag=idlewoodw-20" target="_blank">N2610</a> is a proud product to wear the label "Made in the USA." Around since 1919, Great Neck Tools started out in the tool industry making saws in this country, and it still makes them here today.<br />
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<td><h3>
Care for Your Handsaw</h3>
<div>
The blade of this handsaw is a chrome nickel steel blade with a water based lacquer, pretty much an industry standard for your general hand saw. After you are done sawing for the day, Great Neck suggests a light coat of oil be applied to prevent any rust from forming on the blade. I gave mine a quick shot of AmsOil on a rag and a light wiping and the saw was ready for storage until the next project. <br />
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<h3>
Conclusions</h3>
<div>
The saw was a real pleasure to cut with and left a nice edge for any saw under $30. This saw cut just as well as a Disston I own, perhaps even a little better. I feel with its features at the price point given, you would be hard pressed to find a better saw. In fact, citing reasons previously stated, I believe this saw is in a category all its own.</div>
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</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can read more about Great Neck Tools, the multiple brands they own, and the wide array of tools they produce at the website <a href="http://www.greatneckbrands.com/">www.greatneckbrands.com</a>. </span><br />
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-65683090157582658572013-02-11T14:59:00.000-08:002015-06-05T08:13:05.563-07:00DIY Non-Marring Hammer with an Old School TwistWhen disassembling furniture for repair, it is important to keep the parts in pristine condition so when reassembled you can make the piece look brand new. Sometimes softer woods have a habit of very easily taking dents or nicks.<br />
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I ran across a situation the other day where I was disassembling a piece of knotty pine furniture and needed a non-marring hammer to break apart glued joints. I started by using a rubber mallet, but had to stop when I found it left some dents in the wood. Wanting to preserve the pieces in their original condition, I knew another solution was out there.<br />
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I recalled a while back reading up on furniture restoration, a hammer wrapper with rags could be a substitute for a non-marring hammer. This sounded like a good time to put it to the test.<br />
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<h3>
To make my hammer, I used:</h3>
- 3 pound sledge hammer (or other hammer with flat ends)<br />
- 8 shop rags<br />
- 1 large zip tie<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluvLXS3OGJ3ZIAEd_cSjN3ExZhdvTM5NA-nt0BFj3fICgdqMafrD4__rpvnzRFiTBlL9gdKrg296o-twCQYx06CLfOsn2hqp6z5Zn2juO4xQ9Hb9z6nJSGnjSVB_qlkfsuBaYClb4dU96/s1600/hammer1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluvLXS3OGJ3ZIAEd_cSjN3ExZhdvTM5NA-nt0BFj3fICgdqMafrD4__rpvnzRFiTBlL9gdKrg296o-twCQYx06CLfOsn2hqp6z5Zn2juO4xQ9Hb9z6nJSGnjSVB_qlkfsuBaYClb4dU96/s320/hammer1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Step 1</h3>
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Lay all 8 rags flat and place the hammer in the middle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcT8I_kEQoig9LvAcwqUi85D7QBlsh6RqSO-KQBQlUNubkUNjvcYpJW17V8ZIe5PnxkOWGwK5gmpvPrRUsDsl_KjhlkqHhicAeiBW5gT12pQIbXQPJUtveCBCy0laUbhhZGYnJ1wncJgp/s1600/hammer-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcT8I_kEQoig9LvAcwqUi85D7QBlsh6RqSO-KQBQlUNubkUNjvcYpJW17V8ZIe5PnxkOWGwK5gmpvPrRUsDsl_KjhlkqHhicAeiBW5gT12pQIbXQPJUtveCBCy0laUbhhZGYnJ1wncJgp/s320/hammer-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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</h4>
<h3>
Step 2</h3>
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Wrap your rags as evenly as you can around the head of the hammer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ajBh5hvApaoPTEp4QFT1YO1MGkHxTF-nFu9yO3GD6Pa-FzEkObZvFKBUqLWfmU0rD2QpBO7ZnjroZEJFJvPWLxf_4GSa6jxfYILTnH-ODL23jz230Cy75cUpqGLINqVQHIIFZxF8LY6N/s1600/hammer-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ajBh5hvApaoPTEp4QFT1YO1MGkHxTF-nFu9yO3GD6Pa-FzEkObZvFKBUqLWfmU0rD2QpBO7ZnjroZEJFJvPWLxf_4GSa6jxfYILTnH-ODL23jz230Cy75cUpqGLINqVQHIIFZxF8LY6N/s320/hammer-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Step 3</h3>
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Put a zip tie around the rags as close tot he head of the hammer as you can. To tighten it very tight, use a pair of pliers to pinch near the excess zip tie material and rock it back and forth. After it is snug, cut off the end of the zip tie.<br />
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To my surprise, this hammer left no dents or marks in the wood even though I swung it very hard. Making it took less than five minutes, but the best part is it was made for free with things most of us already have lying around our garage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHklMn6xsa7eCjGVUZR4HLG2fO0B7mRsQrSUfuSmg7hwEJ4KHWhcJDrZocMegCVstnWxi4wWSvABj8ohqRI-lg45is-H8Ve4NBsg6hnTf2RlgebBeXIZOUlO8FH1mXRgV-eW6ukvEvws-X/s1600/hammer-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHklMn6xsa7eCjGVUZR4HLG2fO0B7mRsQrSUfuSmg7hwEJ4KHWhcJDrZocMegCVstnWxi4wWSvABj8ohqRI-lg45is-H8Ve4NBsg6hnTf2RlgebBeXIZOUlO8FH1mXRgV-eW6ukvEvws-X/s320/hammer-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-87195162498081909572013-01-15T07:28:00.003-08:002013-01-15T07:28:55.234-08:00Removing Rust with ElectrolysisIn a recent post, I talked about the benefits of hand tools and how there are some really good finds out there to be had. Let's say you are looking at some tools at a yard sale, thrift store, or other second hand shop, and you find something you are really interested in purchasing. After testing it out, it seems to suit your interest very well, except it is covered with rust. A little surface rust is no big deal, some steel wool and an oil-based lubricant will clean it up very well. However, major rust can be a real downer on a prized piece.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Tpns3t_cnAE7GJrfFwP9AIH9LaG34Ntdyo27RNpjVaJGEtq9LAPu7zrTFLW1qGbku6I9DmKqPJ-IFqxVbr4JAuA3Hh3nL8FD_LE51WnsehgGCld8QfLvNOArB56AzV6BxW-fzD30D4hl/s1600/206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
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I recently came across an anvil that my grandfather frequently used long before Ronald Reagan entered politics. After he passed away, my grandmother had covered it with water-based yellow and used it as a conversation piece in her garden. Left untouched for many years, the surface rust was considerable. After some research, I considered electrolysis to be my preferred choice of rust removal.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Taking proper precautions, electrolysis is very simple and is one of the most environmentally friendly methods of rust removal. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">
Why Electrolysis?</span></h3>
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Electrolysis would remove not only the rust, but also all paint on the anvil, leaving a nice shiny bare metal surface. In addition, electrolysis would give me much greater control over how much material would be removed and how evenly I can remove it. With a wire brush I would be challenged to leave the smooth surface I desired, and although chemical rust removers may work well, getting into the small crevices and hard to reach places could present a challenge.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">
Precautions</span></h3>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHSEyNMZogQQofWO7nPCRKVmZdZqP6OAk3rwRbSHCVO6-MI6HDxiLbEklvC5ljKzVX9jrzSNpu9uXjz4BDbhgEwwRsrkW1WgSl7V6GjlAacJfWr0tLjhmbb9eZ7453BhpFhJmPF9KRGef/s1600/209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHSEyNMZogQQofWO7nPCRKVmZdZqP6OAk3rwRbSHCVO6-MI6HDxiLbEklvC5ljKzVX9jrzSNpu9uXjz4BDbhgEwwRsrkW1WgSl7V6GjlAacJfWr0tLjhmbb9eZ7453BhpFhJmPF9KRGef/s320/209.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Remember, as the name "electrolysis" suggests, you will be working with electricity. If that makes you uneasy, stop and find another method. I really suggest having a commanding knowledge on the basics of electricity before you go any further.<br />
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Second, there are some mild chemicals involved with this process. While there are no strong acids, we are using washing soda, which could cause irritation or more severe problems if it comes in contact with skin or eyes. <br />
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You should take proper precautions when dealing with any chemicals, including proper clothing, eyewear, proper ventilation, and chemical resistant gloves. The chemical reaction will make hydrogen gas, which can be flammable. Never do this near pilot lights or any other type of fire or flame.<br />
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In addition, while you may understand the intricacies of this operation, it is important this process be done in a secluded area away from others who may not understand its danger. Children and animals should remain away from this area for the entire process. My dog has a habit of eating cat poop, so I could imagine her trying to drink the water if given the opportunity.<br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: large;">Not for All Tools</span></h3>
<div>
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While electrolysis is a great method of rust removal, it is not for all tools. I would not suggest sticking anything which could be damaged by water into solution. Any types of wood, basic electronics, or moving parts must be removed. This method effectively works best for bare metal. Some disassembly may be required to efficiently clean your tools. </div>
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<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Setup</span></b></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxXqkI29PvxOMM7VZOOiipdm95nAMADLMj9J0373zAmXF22Pv26Dh9vHoE2VyClMJvO0HSPYUMowWRvie6svFvmfmPV7XzUHz1hXSDxaPTpRsfjNrT8pcbZ9DQWe6oCnxLFXqNRo_Xr_6/s1600/207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxXqkI29PvxOMM7VZOOiipdm95nAMADLMj9J0373zAmXF22Pv26Dh9vHoE2VyClMJvO0HSPYUMowWRvie6svFvmfmPV7XzUHz1hXSDxaPTpRsfjNrT8pcbZ9DQWe6oCnxLFXqNRo_Xr_6/s320/207.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
For assembly of the electrolysis tub, gather the following supplies:<br />
<ul>
<li>12 gauge wire</li>
<li>steel rebar</li>
<li>scrap steel wire</li>
<li>plastic 10 gallon tote</li>
</ul>
<div>
Cut fours pieces of rebar that are 1-2 inches longer than the height of your plastic tote. To secure these as posts in the four corners of the plastic tote, drill two holes near the top of each corner, loop the wire trough the holes and around the post, then twist the ends together snugly.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPX_RYo3q-HZ7GSdXEOnJK9lEHwU2R0nVglEVuMEbaUE0bXIvvSoILdgWOmak1EaDgQiyQ1KB1soFHqCcRvUVOoT8ZGoknn9oZiyoj4IhZYL7GEmHUiYZvHP2hWYQj3V6jDor5H4vCnTo/s1600/211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEPX_RYo3q-HZ7GSdXEOnJK9lEHwU2R0nVglEVuMEbaUE0bXIvvSoILdgWOmak1EaDgQiyQ1KB1soFHqCcRvUVOoT8ZGoknn9oZiyoj4IhZYL7GEmHUiYZvHP2hWYQj3V6jDor5H4vCnTo/s320/211.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
After the posts are secure in each corner, take four pieces of copper wire and strip about two inches off each end. The wires should be slightly (25-50%) longer than the full length of your plastic tote. Wrap one end of each wire securely around the top of each rebar post, then twist all four ends together at the top, forming a pyramid shape with the wires. These wires must stay above your electrolysis bath during the rust removal process. Congratulation, you just formed the anode, which will connect to the red clamp on you battery charger.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2ms6_G9lKN2eR8SOS4oEhJvkxMBOpW8Hpgz6Po-x17_ClWA3LXRbL6tdDoy2n2-EF8GVnxDvzQDihYozbs9SVECnYBOZM0UoO8_6oIM5ruEapHtqFF3i5C-wSx2wvAI1HRkwOx_sIX2F/s1600/208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2ms6_G9lKN2eR8SOS4oEhJvkxMBOpW8Hpgz6Po-x17_ClWA3LXRbL6tdDoy2n2-EF8GVnxDvzQDihYozbs9SVECnYBOZM0UoO8_6oIM5ruEapHtqFF3i5C-wSx2wvAI1HRkwOx_sIX2F/s320/208.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you will create the cathode piece, which will connect your work to the black wire. The best method I found is to suspend your rusted metal in the water with a bare copper wire wrapped around it. In the picture to the right, I wrapped the anvil in bare copper, then secured this wire to the white wire, wrapped the 1x2 scrap of wood. Fill your tote with water, and one tablespoon of washing soda per gallon. Stir it up and completely submerge your rusted tool in the solution. <br />
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<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Turn On the Juice</span></b></h3>
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Be sure your battery charge is unplugged. Connect the red clamp to the twisted wire at the top, or the anode. Connect the black clamp to the wire leading you your rusted metal. Now get ready for the magic to happen and plug in your battery charger. I used the setting for 2 amps on 12 volts. Stand back. Wow . . . really . . . nothing? Do not be fooled, it's happening, but very slowly. Do you see bubbles forming on your tool? That is hydrogen gas escaping. The first time I did this, I didn't see the bubbles. So I added more washing soda, with the battery charger turned off of course. When you see the bubbles, you know it's working. Now, don't touch the water and leave it alone for a while. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowHU_qee1QRZokNGP9vM340Iy12S3UddXh_zPMl2c1gfqf5a6KSYjY6tSe_18PjE3IAK3th2YtOtDMcH652W7fREni2-PdPKSkyVQNxbqnbdUcVIh853MU_onaLEXIc9BiD6BkPEzD_cr/s1600/213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowHU_qee1QRZokNGP9vM340Iy12S3UddXh_zPMl2c1gfqf5a6KSYjY6tSe_18PjE3IAK3th2YtOtDMcH652W7fREni2-PdPKSkyVQNxbqnbdUcVIh853MU_onaLEXIc9BiD6BkPEzD_cr/s320/213.jpg" width="320" /></a>Check it every hour or so. Is there muck floating on the surface? Then the electrolysis is working and the rust is coming off your tool. In my case, the paint was coming off as well. After about four to five hours, I cut everything off, pulled the anvil out, and gently scrubbed it with a steel brush. The bare metal underneath was now showing. I dropped it back in the solution and plugged everything back in. Every hour or so after this, I pulled out the anvil and brushed some more crud off until I had a really clean final product free of paint and rust. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNriiSUIlGwbaRCCBNK_onuEon8Ir2zFxXFwE_rZmeXGGxGIQuQ_aOy3RE_oNA9OAzU6CQYo_aMMi-_Yk1OxLIv9imm7G5nNK7tF_jdnxFNdjPItTfaMZOOFG-_1Gtwu8vOMbZADpTR2vr/s1600/216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNriiSUIlGwbaRCCBNK_onuEon8Ir2zFxXFwE_rZmeXGGxGIQuQ_aOy3RE_oNA9OAzU6CQYo_aMMi-_Yk1OxLIv9imm7G5nNK7tF_jdnxFNdjPItTfaMZOOFG-_1Gtwu8vOMbZADpTR2vr/s320/216.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Over 40 years later and the anvil was looking great and ready to use again. The last step of any electrolysis rust removal is to prevent future rust. Paste wax, linseed oil, laquer, or whatever method you wish is fine. I put a decent coat of AmsOil to make this anvil project complete. You can also save the solution after you are done, and reuse it on future projects.<br />
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<h3>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">New Life</span></b></h3>
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As previously mentioned in <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2012/08/the-importance-of-old-hand-tools.html" target="_blank">The Importance of Old Hand Tools</a>, the durability of hand tools over 30 years old is very good. With electrolysis as another weapon in your arsenal of antique restoration methods, you can safely and efficiently remove rust from many classic pieces. Find your next gem in someone else's rusted pile of long forgotten tools, bring it back to life, and put it to use in your own shop.<br />
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-74343348695328300322012-12-07T10:04:00.002-08:002015-05-21T08:13:35.393-07:00The Idle Woodworker Blog was Featured on About.com <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4v7VQEGRUlJIdAm4_qSLNcNKu3vXrPMpDjRXj-YwDKv2YdVcirGDYSlme1zHf8UE3GVeVKcJ65F7P2yFhHFrvymzG01IcAxbdS-oBlce2-D5HNqrpC1K89ADqiODxNUEksGlvBpvXBZBU/s1600/IMG_1780.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4v7VQEGRUlJIdAm4_qSLNcNKu3vXrPMpDjRXj-YwDKv2YdVcirGDYSlme1zHf8UE3GVeVKcJ65F7P2yFhHFrvymzG01IcAxbdS-oBlce2-D5HNqrpC1K89ADqiODxNUEksGlvBpvXBZBU/s320/IMG_1780.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
I would like to thank Ryan Kunkle from the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania for featuring my <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2011/12/christmas-train-platform-is-completed.html" target="_blank">Christmas Platform blog post</a> in his <a href="http://modeltrains.about.com/" target="_blank">About.com Model Railroad Blog</a> a few days back. Ryan has some great articles regarding designing and setting up very aesthetic model railroad scenes. <br />
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A big reason any I began blogging at the end of last year was the limited information available for certain projects, such as a Christmas Train Platform. By sharing information and things I have learned, I was hoping to inspire others in their own projects. </div>
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Keep an eye out for upcoming posts as we finish up 2012 and head into 2013. </div>
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I promise to finish the <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2012/05/upcoming-projects.html" target="_blank">Depression-Era Vanity</a> I introduced you to back in June, as well as test drive and review a hand saw the <a href="http://www.greatnecktools.com/" target="_blank">Great Neck Tools </a>company will be sending my way. A few other things in the works are farmhouse-inspired kitchen pieces I designed, removing tool rust with electrolysis, and some tools I originally thought were limited, but now cannot live without.</div>
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As for the Minwax Facebook contest, I did not win the big trip, but still receive a great consolation prize. Congrats to Tom P. of Indiana, PA for his truly wonderful restoration of a family heirloom grandfather clock. I really appreciate all of your votes, it is wonderful thing to know your work is truly appreciated.</div>
The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-60450258445229876012012-11-27T07:16:00.000-08:002015-05-21T08:15:21.136-07:00Shop Safety - Which Safety Glasses are the Best? <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4W6-edWyVbHgkDlig1v9m-1Hrp2LkZxRZ_hwoWicE3NjKoEdqr4tHO2zVnQuIEEv7iW1MXGmHY_RkX7q3PFU3IS9a3u6GBNs-Ee4MbqMUd_acmsIwKJ7fxDbsRJq8uTLTUGmReFz1ecvX/s1600/dr_drew_pinsky_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4W6-edWyVbHgkDlig1v9m-1Hrp2LkZxRZ_hwoWicE3NjKoEdqr4tHO2zVnQuIEEv7iW1MXGmHY_RkX7q3PFU3IS9a3u6GBNs-Ee4MbqMUd_acmsIwKJ7fxDbsRJq8uTLTUGmReFz1ecvX/s200/dr_drew_pinsky_001.jpg" width="200" /></a>I once asked a wise and experienced wood worker, "Which safety glasses are the best?". His answer was simple - "The ones you wear." <br />
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If you've ever tried using an uncomfortable pair of safety glasses, then you completely understand the answer. You got to a store, look at all the safety glasses in their blister packaging, and wonder two things - are they safe and how much do they cost. You accept since they are protective eye wear, they may not be the most comfortable glasses you have ever worn.<br />
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But recently, I stumbled into my<a href="http://www.facebook.com/woodcraft.beach?fref=ts" target="_blank"> local Woodcraft store</a> in the Norfolk/Virginia Beach area and ran across a display for their safety glasses. I have been looking for a good pair for some time now and willing to shell out $20-25 for a comfortable pair. They had samples to try on, which was a welcome addition to the standard guesswork.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4119o8ZZqk65j02M6596eaRt0RzLImehZlpUmfm7zb1hBJt6zFDQKC2Xap_Gu0P1DjmVXXOjq49YOoGGlvno1XImK2iGIE7Abaj7rNgUrj1i6rteEJvNhdLNa0Er4hOv30u1qnuzeVNI/s1600/830253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4119o8ZZqk65j02M6596eaRt0RzLImehZlpUmfm7zb1hBJt6zFDQKC2Xap_Gu0P1DjmVXXOjq49YOoGGlvno1XImK2iGIE7Abaj7rNgUrj1i6rteEJvNhdLNa0Er4hOv30u1qnuzeVNI/s200/830253.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fastcap Safety Glasses</td></tr>
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What a difference in the feel of these glasses and other eye protection I have worn. They not only are comfortable, the way they wrap around and contour my head give me an unobstructed view and good protection from flying debris. And at $6 a pair, it was a price that wouldn't break the bank.<br />
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<a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/830253/Fastcap-Safety-Glasses-Mirrored.aspx" target="_blank">Online Woodcraft Fastcap Safety Glasses Page</a><br />
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On Sunday I had some modifications to my lumber storage to make, so I tried them out. Comfortable and good protection, as I had expected. Two thumbs up for safety, and a choice I can comfortably work with in the shop.<br />
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For those who are interested in additional options, Fastcap safety glasses at <a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/" target="_blank">Woodcraft</a> come in clear, dark, amber, mirrors, with bifocals, and as googles.<br />
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-367478962952850442012-11-14T05:41:00.003-08:002012-11-14T05:43:45.731-08:00Building with Pallet Wood other types of Reclaimed LumberThere are many times woodworkers search for alternative sources of lumber to get the look, texture, or pricing they desire, since the conventional sources of wood may not easily give the desired end product. When trying for a vintage look or working within a desired budget, these secondary choices can supply a plethora of wood that cannot be found at your big box home improvement store.<br />
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On a recent post, I discussed building a project out of pallet wood. Pallet wood and other sources reclaimed lumber can give a project a great vintage look, but there are a few cautions your should follow whenever selecting and working with it. For the purposes of this article, I will break down the category of reclaimed lumber into two groups, newer lumber and old lumber.<br />
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New Lumber</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxLFlNB2ozQt_1pHvXU6lV-e5dySLuYc1cA4eLADG2nqFkcG_6ChZleY66HkPrX__irSl6NCOnkoibIUwxYiEZsytVnWBelQ82QxHyurm8NCR4pFFjar9hIdgnIxegz2-JTAhVJ2fgs-D/s1600/grade_b_pallets_bzie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuxLFlNB2ozQt_1pHvXU6lV-e5dySLuYc1cA4eLADG2nqFkcG_6ChZleY66HkPrX__irSl6NCOnkoibIUwxYiEZsytVnWBelQ82QxHyurm8NCR4pFFjar9hIdgnIxegz2-JTAhVJ2fgs-D/s320/grade_b_pallets_bzie.jpg" width="320" /></a>Newer lumber was harvested within the past 10 or so years and can be easy to find and very inexpensive. In fact, most sources are completely free, providing you supply the labor and transport. The best example of this is pallet wood. There are so many books, websites, and other sources out there reclaimed covering pallet wood construction projects. As a matter of fact, a Google search of "pallet furniture" results in almost 2.5 million web results and almost 3 million web images. Its popularity is without question - free wood is a hot trend in today's questionable economy.<br />
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However, it would be best err on the side of caution when building with pallet wood. Many times pallet wood is treated with insecticides and herbicides, and may be contaminated with bacteria if it as used to transport food. I personally would never build something to go inside my home. Additionally, if you build anything meant for children or animals, it is best to use another type of lumber. A good example of what I feel comfortable using pallet wood for is the Halloween graveyard fence project. Not all pallet wood is harmful, but it is near impossible to determine which wood has been treated and which is untreated.<br />
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Old Lumber</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-hhxNqtWIhW1_AfJrAadYomFDtav4NjGx8EeFK9cCY0bw8uIwrHkjoLHyrVrke8RKwXRVn2lX_3p4Fivtrryr8E4vsmkzpnz8xCh5EIwRGc4T9A462F6G5mq6CxQIoRwPow1OHWyA5pA0/s1600/reclaimed-wood-image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-hhxNqtWIhW1_AfJrAadYomFDtav4NjGx8EeFK9cCY0bw8uIwrHkjoLHyrVrke8RKwXRVn2lX_3p4Fivtrryr8E4vsmkzpnz8xCh5EIwRGc4T9A462F6G5mq6CxQIoRwPow1OHWyA5pA0/s1600/reclaimed-wood-image.jpg" /></a></div>
Old lumber can be very old, even dating to the 19th century, and may have once been siding or structure of an old building. Sometimes old barns or sawmills may have lumber stored in them, or the reclaimed would can come from boxcars, mine shafts, or flooring. Pine and oak are most common in my state, Virginia, but other areas of the country may have different species of wood.<br />
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Old lumber is a great source of well seasoned wood, but it is not without hazards. Sometimes insect infestations, wood rot, mold, and fungi have ravaged these buildings. In addition, many of these old building were painted with lead paint. Although the painted surface may have a great patina and show a well worn look, I personally would not construct anything with still had the original lead paint on its surface. I also would never construct anything for children made from this wood.<br />
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Rough Sawn and Full of Nails</h4>
All reclaimed number may have instances where nails and a rough cut surface would exist, so it is best handled carefully with work gloves. It is best to plane or sand the wood to a smoother surface if you expect frequent contact these pieces. Again, for a Halloween decoration in your yard, rough cut may be great, but for a bench it will be best to have a smooth, splinter-free surface.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33igLrmBB8DuxZcuOFwr02hyUVsVDiIOw8LS6VUg3NmrMAktYuIKRVZY6Nooz9sccUtFEgUg6GKWI648ACpyol2fprWElDMBIWhunVjPOMgv97iWiu1cPH4WSsFeKdNeT2qJxsIg7sLHo/s1600/images.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33igLrmBB8DuxZcuOFwr02hyUVsVDiIOw8LS6VUg3NmrMAktYuIKRVZY6Nooz9sccUtFEgUg6GKWI648ACpyol2fprWElDMBIWhunVjPOMgv97iWiu1cPH4WSsFeKdNeT2qJxsIg7sLHo/s1600/images.jpg" /></a>Before cutting, planing, or drilling, you will definitely want to remove any old nails or fasteners. Tap them with a hammer on the sharp side and use scrap wood to get good leverage and protect your product when prying them out with the claw of your hammer or pry bar. Run a metal detector over the wood and make sure there isn't anything left behind. Sometimes the heads of old rusted nails may break off and get stuck in old lumber, leaving a damaging and dangerous situation when working with power tools. These can be removed by tapping them out from the backside with a small punch. <br />
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Specialty Woods</h4>
In some cases there are specialty woods which may be salvaged for their grain, color, hardness, resistance to rot, or possibly another reason. A good example would be Teak, which is often used outdoors and on boats for its resistance to rot.<br />
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-2915264590448888732012-11-09T06:31:00.001-08:002015-05-21T08:17:20.199-07:00Please Vote for the Tool/Blanket Chest Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Great news - yesterday I found my <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2012/07/the-depression-era-tool-chest.html" target="_blank">Depression Era Blanket/Tool Chest Conversion</a> project was chosen by a panel of judges as a finalist in the Miracle Makeover Contest by Minwax. If enough Facebook users vote for my project, I will win a trip to Ashville, NC for a private lesson with <a href="http://www.askbrucejohnson.com/brucesblog.html" target="_blank">Bruce Johnson</a>, a master furniture refinisher, a piece of unfinished furniture, and some Minwax product to finish it.<br />
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I appreciate the judges selecting my project as a finalist in the Minwax contest. Very humbling, indeed.<br />
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If you want to read about the entire conversion you can read the individual blog posts:<br />
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Depression Era Tool Chest Conversion <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2012/07/depression-era-tool-chest-conversion.html" target="_blank">Part 1</a> - <a href="http://www.idlewoodworker.com/2012/07/the-depression-era-tool-chest.html" target="_blank">Part 2</a><br />
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If you have a Facebook page and would like to vote for me, I would certainly appreciate it. <b>You can vote once a day, every day until November 18.</b> I won't complain if you decide to vote more than once.</div>
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You can follow this link to my entry in the contest:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Minwax Contest Entry - PleaseVote</span><br />
(Link has been removed that the contest is now over. Thank you for your votes.)</div>
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-21099339358378930112012-10-31T06:50:00.003-07:002014-06-23T06:29:55.449-07:00Easy Halloween Graveyard FenceWhat would your front yard be like on a creepy Halloween night without a graveyard? A collection of tombstones with a fence out front makes for the perfect trick-or-treating ambiance. Tombstones can be made or found very cheap at any drug store chain. To add a little extra something, you can nail two boards together and make crosses to stick in the ground as well.<br />
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My Halloween fence was very easy and very inexpensive. In fact, after it was all said and done, making them took only a few hours and cost me only a few cans of spray paint I had sitting in my garage and about $6 in conduit clamps from Lowes. Even the wood, which can be obtained from shipping pallets, can cost nothing. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8VrhAQmEPqvrydOBWsoXoUDvOhqpK-4Aksjy5hdkWUatvTwTQdAZEH8Z5Cqf70z7oh_S_emWkgQzWBUQr-sQziYS965p9XMQCVqIzK6V3xWe_BFVUBloAqeANszt6aD9A8i_0yofRENRR/s1600/Fence1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8VrhAQmEPqvrydOBWsoXoUDvOhqpK-4Aksjy5hdkWUatvTwTQdAZEH8Z5Cqf70z7oh_S_emWkgQzWBUQr-sQziYS965p9XMQCVqIzK6V3xWe_BFVUBloAqeANszt6aD9A8i_0yofRENRR/s200/Fence1.jpg" height="167" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut angles at the top of your pickets</td></tr>
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<h3>
Step 1 - Cut and Arrange Your Fence Pickets</h3>
I started by taking five boards and cutting them at an angle near the top. It really doesn't even matter exactly what angle you choose, just be somewhere between 30 and 60 degrees. The randomness of your angles add extra effect to the final product. Arrange your pickets similar to the drawing to the right.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtfUmgtL-wechh-m2AUbvJ5ntapSc6hzGaqe27ICnHNn-yRHzCQmTnKCKfBxYUHaeXIr1ab62PZFghgWg8x1mCIUN33BG43Wm739mNLfJB-lVdenIZK32uoaNrKl36Csc8x7VgvxtjBYRN/s1600/fence2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtfUmgtL-wechh-m2AUbvJ5ntapSc6hzGaqe27ICnHNn-yRHzCQmTnKCKfBxYUHaeXIr1ab62PZFghgWg8x1mCIUN33BG43Wm739mNLfJB-lVdenIZK32uoaNrKl36Csc8x7VgvxtjBYRN/s200/fence2.jpg" height="143" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basic fence before finishing</td></tr>
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<h3>
Step 2 - Add the Fence Rails</h3>
Then I take two slightly longer boards and lay them across the original boards as your rails. Exact dimensions are not necessary, eyeballing everything is good enough for Halloween decorations. You may even choose to lay these boards at a slight angle. After you have everything laid out, nail the boards together. I used a total of twenty 1 1/4" nails in total. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6jZ3IHwveJ6doVDX9SymfAjPpxqx1MuToRtH0SaCygUpfZ0L6k7cbMzXc3seAiACoLW8SSNAKRJj-T4fS7FsILkqAbibm-GoFTK1jTwFEDL8efoMNtggOfr471wp5pFPGGr4tmNedKBb/s1600/fence-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6jZ3IHwveJ6doVDX9SymfAjPpxqx1MuToRtH0SaCygUpfZ0L6k7cbMzXc3seAiACoLW8SSNAKRJj-T4fS7FsILkqAbibm-GoFTK1jTwFEDL8efoMNtggOfr471wp5pFPGGr4tmNedKBb/s1600/fence-3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pound the stakes in, the slide the straps over them</td></tr>
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<h3>
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<h3>
Step 3 - Add the Stakes</h3>
The first time I made these, I pounded wood stakes into the ground and screwed the fence to them. I thought it was a great idea, but it was a bear getting things lined up properly and securing everything. Then I came up with the idea of using <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Halex-26161-Count-2-Inch-Steel/dp/B002TIFVWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351618320p" target="_blank">conduit straps</a>. By lining up 1/2" green steel garden stakes with the straps, I found this very secure. The strap/stake concept I used held my fence sections firmly in the ground during Hurricane Sandy this year. <br />
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Line up your straps and screw them halfway in. Pound your stakes in, then slide the fence section down over the stakes. Tighten the screws on the straps for a good grip. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0gHePzydZ94i2SF4BM4Hb1EcSYp6R2HSOKSWYBkE4Lgwm-z4ePo4sEHxCHHRuY7rehyphenhyphenvrILIXmtDBO9bUAkPd0dt0egDgWocuf2en_MJRdhMnnPOYVinratmFXj_6bEXC0pAmaILNew5/s1600/fence-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0gHePzydZ94i2SF4BM4Hb1EcSYp6R2HSOKSWYBkE4Lgwm-z4ePo4sEHxCHHRuY7rehyphenhyphenvrILIXmtDBO9bUAkPd0dt0egDgWocuf2en_MJRdhMnnPOYVinratmFXj_6bEXC0pAmaILNew5/s1600/fence-5.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spanish moss adds a nice "aged" touch to the fence</td></tr>
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<h3>
Step 4 - Paint and Decorate Your Fence</h3>
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To paint this fence, I used a combination of green, black, beige, and brown. First, I sprayed each color in a large camouflage pattern, using some of each color. It looked pretty cheesy, but that was only a base coat. Then, using the darker colors, I sprayed a light mist or black and brown over the whole fence. It gave it a nice aged look. I finished off my fences by stapling a little Spanish moss or wrapping ivy vine cuttings around the pickets.</div>
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Make two, three, four, or as many as you want. You can start out small and add a few more fence sections every year. They store flat and out of the way, making this a no-brainer for reusable Halloween yard decorations. I currently have six in my front yard and am ready for my trick-or-treaters to show up again this year.<br />
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The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-59719305739775180862012-08-03T14:28:00.001-07:002012-08-03T14:32:27.302-07:00The Importance of Old Hand ToolsIn an effort to break from refinishing blogs, I would to write a little bit about old hand tools and why I still use them almost every chance I get. Woodworking and refinishing may be my favorite hobbies, but collecting old tools runs very close behind. Up until about 100 years ago, the average person did not own a single power tool - everything a homeowner made was exclusively by hand.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic Stanley Handyman Plane</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So why would today's craftsman even bother using hand tools when power tools make it faster and easier to product good quality product? There are five main reasons I choose to use a number of old hand tools:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Price</b></span> - If I had an empty garage and a $200 tool budget, almost every piece of equipment I would buy would be a hand tool (the only exception would be an electric drill.) You get more for your money with hand tools, and could outfit your entire shop on a minimal budget.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Durability</b></span> - This may not be the case with the hand tools made today, but the durability of an average hand tool over 30 years old is usually very good. In an age when premium brand power tools may only come with a one year warranty, the lifetime of a classic hand tool, with care, can last generations. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Intimacy with the Craft</b> </span>- Some woodworkers, such as Roy Underhill, see the use of power tools as a step away from the traditional craft, making wood working more business and less art. While a power tool may help you produce volume, properly tuned hand tools can help you produce quality and detail.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yankee Push Drills are so great, they deserve their own blog post</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Efficiency</b> </span>- If you are not producing multiple copies of the same piece, you may find hand tools can make you more efficient and saved time. The time to set up your table saw, jig, router, or other power tool may nullify the time saved when only making one or two passes. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Experience</b></span> - Why do we still make our children memorize multiplication tables when you can buy a calculator for less than $5? Doing something by hand the long way can train your brain to develop its own shortcuts and recognize patterns or mistakes. The same can be true for woodworking, where your experience from using hand tools can make you even more competent using power tools. In fact, most professional furniture trade schools first cover mastery of hand planes, chisels, and turning before you plug in your first power tool.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My grandfather sharpened his own hand saw, an art long lost.</td></tr>
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I was recently blessed with the opportunity to go through my grandfather's tools and select the pieces I would take home and use in my own shop. I feel very honored to be able to use the same tools which have shaped so many pieces of furniture and metalwork from my family's generations.<br />
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To carry on these traditions is truly a very humbling experience. All of the photos listed in this blog post are not only classic hand tools, to me they are also family heirlooms.<br />
<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-4086160594729810222012-07-23T11:05:00.002-07:002012-07-23T11:05:26.553-07:00The Depression Era Tool Chest Conversion - Continued<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>(Part 2 of 2)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">With many years of use, love, and wear, this tool chest will need a sound refinishing before put to work as a blanket chest. This blogpost will cover my preferred method for stripping, repairing, and refinishing furniture.</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Part 1 of 2 can be found <a href="http://sawdustandshavings.blogspot.com/2012/07/depression-era-tool-chest-conversion.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">6. Polish the Hardware</span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHNY_1Fov2NXv2wMa29AtBlmmkcBvsWpsaQ7aFMkReB3ZQKhNkyWRm0phP3r27JTse_iL_y2an412P8WsN7j8-HWCwzyXU0fijGHsyeDxNWKCF30EqfBd2ewQKO9iPFhuGZ1c_hbTDCx7/s1600/IMG_2122.jpg" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">With over 80 years of tarnish, hand polishing was not a viable option for the brass hardware. I instead decided to use my electric buffer, which is nothing more than a bench grinder fitted with a $5 polishing/buffing wheel. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">When polishing hardware, I use gloves to protect my fingers from accidental contact with the buffing wheel. After you turn on your buffer, apply some brass cleaning/polishing compound to the wheel. Then simply push your piece against the front of the wheel slightly toward the bottom, and hold on very tightly. Don't forget to polish the screws as well; I use a set of pliers to hold the screw in place. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">80 years of tarnish can be removed in 5 minutes</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">When the wheel starts clogging, I will keep the motor running and gently use a wire brush to clean the muck off. </span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">The most important things you can do when polishing is protect your fingers and hold your pieces tight - even the slower speed grinders spin at a minimum of 1750 rpm and can send a work piece flying across the shop.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">7. Match missing screws</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">When I write my book on how to be a world class antique restoration expert, I'll include a chapter on how it is easier to fabricate replacement hardware than it is to buy a suitable match. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">If you are fortunate enough to restore a piece of furniture with all pieces of hardware and screws intact, count your blessings. In most cases, a piece that fits this description has been cared for so well, there is no reason to refinish it. Too often hardware is either missing or damaged, sending you on a scavenger hunt for the exact same pieces or something close enough to match. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Fortunately, I was only missing a few screws. After a little searching, I found what I was looking for. Sometimes you can find them in the big-box home improvement store, but my best success has always been the locally-owned hardware store. When matching a screw, the following information is critical :</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">12 Screw Head Types - Click to Enlarge</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Drive Type</b> - Slotted and Phillips are the most common drive types</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Material</b> - Brass, Brass Plated*, Stainless, Zinc Plated, Copper</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Length</b> - total length of the screw to be submerged in the wood</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Head Size </b>- inch increments or denoted with "#"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Head Type</b> - Flat, Pan, Round, etc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Screw Diameter</b> - This is dependent on the hole size you are using</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"><b>Thread Count</b> - It's really not necessary to know the exact thread count, just remember you must choose the right screw for wood or metal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">* I always prefer solid brass over brass plated anything. If you expect to have the piece for many years, you'll thank yourself for the extra few dollars spent with solid brass.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">8. The Aromatic Cedar Insert</span></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting the aromatic cedar to size</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">This being my first time working with cedar, I decided to do some research. I found it makes no difference whether you cover just the bottom of the chest or the entire inside, the aroma is pretty pungent either way. After time, the scent will wear out, but with a light sanding you can bring back that great smell.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sanding for a new, fresh aroma</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Plain ordinary cedar will not work as well as "aromatic" cedar. The easiest way to find this stuff is as tongue-and-groove closet lining from your local hardware store. I decided to make an insert by cutting my to size and nailing it to two 1x4s. This way, when the smell wears out and it comes time to sand it down, I can pull the entire insert out instead of fighting with my sander deep down in the corners.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0AaYZUmOPGXVY7u61C8eIC4ii_KfbjSWuPrnhfpYmq36fPHRmoaR6FokR826my45Q2u460LkHK_eHGxiGN5OsDtH8o4541XDRtwyGo2tKz7z7bKxiTt_yzL-BsUs-YDxy3O-S6j-TywK/s1600/IMG_2207.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0AaYZUmOPGXVY7u61C8eIC4ii_KfbjSWuPrnhfpYmq36fPHRmoaR6FokR826my45Q2u460LkHK_eHGxiGN5OsDtH8o4541XDRtwyGo2tKz7z7bKxiTt_yzL-BsUs-YDxy3O-S6j-TywK/s320/IMG_2207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b><br />The Finished Project</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJMvJ5Sf8o7giN_4cCEWHe5EVmAlPEr5E7wa5nWiMm8aT8X0BeDDoGwOCLQh0B7XkADVxy3YKwDOZTL3gfgUUnqHQns44bxGfvZXer-08prFRwF4WpHoIx6QE4OqBYS3b-9Lb3OBBZHJT/s1600/IMG_2211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJMvJ5Sf8o7giN_4cCEWHe5EVmAlPEr5E7wa5nWiMm8aT8X0BeDDoGwOCLQh0B7XkADVxy3YKwDOZTL3gfgUUnqHQns44bxGfvZXer-08prFRwF4WpHoIx6QE4OqBYS3b-9Lb3OBBZHJT/s200/IMG_2211.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Now our restoration is finished and we can decide to keep the tool chest as is, or add a few small touches. I decided to purchase a lid support so I could prop the chest open. At this point, you could also add on handles, a new lock, name plates, or engravings.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"> Whatever you decide to do, the important this is to make it uniquely yours.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tool Chest before restoration</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhm_y7vzL74i-ysPuoyNvGo73y3rRmsbhkckTCG_JA24hA2UimWHTRtoFB9SkidfnEfn9pNJK-ba9zQN7TlccKJSXyjRYYmNCfm8US6xrgL3-nn1mATSptFcQl3B6FYsR0BiD2-XKyhVcs/s1600/IMG_2214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhm_y7vzL74i-ysPuoyNvGo73y3rRmsbhkckTCG_JA24hA2UimWHTRtoFB9SkidfnEfn9pNJK-ba9zQN7TlccKJSXyjRYYmNCfm8US6xrgL3-nn1mATSptFcQl3B6FYsR0BiD2-XKyhVcs/s400/IMG_2214.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blanket Chest after restoration</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></div>The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-3118217611583925772012-07-03T22:18:00.001-07:002012-07-03T22:18:14.636-07:00The Depression Era Tool Chest Conversion<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>(Part 1 of 2)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">With many years of use, love, and wear, this tool chest will need a sound refinishing before put to work as a blanket chest. This blogpost will cover my preferred method for stripping, repairing, and refinishing furniture.</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">1. Determine Type of Finish</span></b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHNY_1Fov2NXv2wMa29AtBlmmkcBvsWpsaQ7aFMkReB3ZQKhNkyWRm0phP3r27JTse_iL_y2an412P8WsN7j8-HWCwzyXU0fijGHsyeDxNWKCF30EqfBd2ewQKO9iPFhuGZ1c_hbTDCx7/s1600/IMG_2122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkHNY_1Fov2NXv2wMa29AtBlmmkcBvsWpsaQ7aFMkReB3ZQKhNkyWRm0phP3r27JTse_iL_y2an412P8WsN7j8-HWCwzyXU0fijGHsyeDxNWKCF30EqfBd2ewQKO9iPFhuGZ1c_hbTDCx7/s320/IMG_2122.jpg" vca="true" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">The first step before diving into this refinishing project was to determine exactly what type of finish with which you are dealing. Most finishes from Depression Era furniture were multiple coats lacquer. To check for this finish, I put some lacquer thinner on a rag and tried to wipe away the old finish. With no such luck, I realized this finish is varnish or very tough to remove. My best option at this point would be to strip and completely refinish.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">2. Remove the Hardware</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0bHGIxoSNQYdmnDpIJWwIH8-wzysLm-oCCq4cNrXHwDblzNdHLBtSWxsFi-xQ92rz304HLMs-rNhJuSHOlZrL52UhvTkGBdM2ZfloOeHiCWs0tQ1Mkle7e9d6Y_jAzFoKTNQKZ_GVDQEB/s1600/element25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0bHGIxoSNQYdmnDpIJWwIH8-wzysLm-oCCq4cNrXHwDblzNdHLBtSWxsFi-xQ92rz304HLMs-rNhJuSHOlZrL52UhvTkGBdM2ZfloOeHiCWs0tQ1Mkle7e9d6Y_jAzFoKTNQKZ_GVDQEB/s200/element25.jpg" vca="true" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Before stripping, I removed the eight brass corners, three hinges, and the locking mechanism. Keeping as much as possible of the original hardware is important for any refinish job. I put these in a small plastic zipper bag, such as </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Poly-Clear-Zipper-Shipping-Bags/dp/B002EDINH8/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1340817811&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=small+reclosable+jewelerybags" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">these</span></a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">, and stored them in a safe place.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">3. Replace Broken Pieces</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">On the side of the tool chest, a piece of trim was split near the corner. Replacing this piece is critical in getting the finished product to look great, so I re-created the piece with some red oak. I concluded the tool chest was white oak, but decided to use red oak since it is easier to come byand I had some lying around the shop. It is more important to the match grain pattern of the oak rather than color, since I can always stain or dye the replacement piece. To ensure the proper thickness of the new piece, I used my thickness planer to thin out the replacement part and cut it to size.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheF_daHt9bz8T9v7MlAv0KFlQVF5GuFlchegFbcg0t0ymvTbbR89IB9wqTNZEjLOFPjzwvdt4o2zSraoCQW5-b1HuTQj0KdhmBLVssRsd71ZEuIllm0EQuq6sw_UkZ5cVCq6lNY1H5pbYO/s1600/IMG_2145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheF_daHt9bz8T9v7MlAv0KFlQVF5GuFlchegFbcg0t0ymvTbbR89IB9wqTNZEjLOFPjzwvdt4o2zSraoCQW5-b1HuTQj0KdhmBLVssRsd71ZEuIllm0EQuq6sw_UkZ5cVCq6lNY1H5pbYO/s200/IMG_2145.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original piece was split.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSFS6zWyEaoHU7kratmQVuQGZAoa_XGZ3VnANaN_03_hjPpZXAY7LK7fb2TwVnHgPl5ncNrseIBrpW-quTR1WesHYpI2C7dQajjowM-kl4c7tXvDeqW45EifsdOhf0qG1tU7LeM-JKBUn/s1600/IMG_2152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDSFS6zWyEaoHU7kratmQVuQGZAoa_XGZ3VnANaN_03_hjPpZXAY7LK7fb2TwVnHgPl5ncNrseIBrpW-quTR1WesHYpI2C7dQajjowM-kl4c7tXvDeqW45EifsdOhf0qG1tU7LeM-JKBUn/s200/IMG_2152.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made a copy to look like the original.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rLANDbrSnVs1SMqQg0D-o3OXZ_Aa4ev3TMu4587N2b9Qn9behOn009dH57q90moCDAn8saYzCevowSk9GZFtFTr7pFWzRlzveQ_dCpJDeKFOJA7jGaARbq6qHVi0z0hjdau097F9XXfr/s1600/IMG_2149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0rLANDbrSnVs1SMqQg0D-o3OXZ_Aa4ev3TMu4587N2b9Qn9behOn009dH57q90moCDAn8saYzCevowSk9GZFtFTr7pFWzRlzveQ_dCpJDeKFOJA7jGaARbq6qHVi0z0hjdau097F9XXfr/s320/IMG_2149.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is our tool chest with the new piece added.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>4. Remove Old Finish </b></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xmi4xtCSxNkzHFhbY8BIENqHgE2tvy4VuVWXWN1akCs0DRqEGqmK1lzwzPj2yayB8qG0N_tw_I2OY6PLcu-xRqnZRdh48WuE7ts6QbkSxC1dgb6RqXakGqCMYRU2xe1iZwDfGkoI4H_w/s1600/ragstain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b></b></span></a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>*</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDg8hHtH0mWiS8PH6LqCMQ-G7i7xqj3JAHZPLW5p8E_GLcEOeng_gRTMiEevgnq1WEDKLm9-M9Ulw_f_BXBQNgZTdBqZAUhqQiI9U3J23oiq7kI9pQPZoqxZMfbIpyx9SQf-q1vtE0hQsg/s1600/p_SCN_184_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDg8hHtH0mWiS8PH6LqCMQ-G7i7xqj3JAHZPLW5p8E_GLcEOeng_gRTMiEevgnq1WEDKLm9-M9Ulw_f_BXBQNgZTdBqZAUhqQiI9U3J23oiq7kI9pQPZoqxZMfbIpyx9SQf-q1vtE0hQsg/s200/p_SCN_184_05.jpg" vca="true" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">After replacing the damaged piece, I stripped the entire outside of the tool chest using a chemical stripper. It is important to work the residue from the stripper onto the replacement part, matching the patina from the rest of the piece and hiding your repair from the casual observer. A final wash of lacquer thinner or other post-stripping cleaner should be used to remove all leftover residue and give you a clean surface for staining.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><i><b><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">*</span> BE SAFE -</b> Always use chemical strippers, stains, paints, and topcoats in a well-ventiallated area. Wear safety protection, as chemical burns can be a real Debbie Downer on your skin and in your eyes. Always have a plan ready in case of skin and/or eye contact, and ingestion.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>5. Apply a New Stain and Finish Coat <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xmi4xtCSxNkzHFhbY8BIENqHgE2tvy4VuVWXWN1akCs0DRqEGqmK1lzwzPj2yayB8qG0N_tw_I2OY6PLcu-xRqnZRdh48WuE7ts6QbkSxC1dgb6RqXakGqCMYRU2xe1iZwDfGkoI4H_w/s1600/ragstain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b></b></span></a><span style="font-size: large;">*<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"></span></span> </b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xmi4xtCSxNkzHFhbY8BIENqHgE2tvy4VuVWXWN1akCs0DRqEGqmK1lzwzPj2yayB8qG0N_tw_I2OY6PLcu-xRqnZRdh48WuE7ts6QbkSxC1dgb6RqXakGqCMYRU2xe1iZwDfGkoI4H_w/s1600/ragstain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Xmi4xtCSxNkzHFhbY8BIENqHgE2tvy4VuVWXWN1akCs0DRqEGqmK1lzwzPj2yayB8qG0N_tw_I2OY6PLcu-xRqnZRdh48WuE7ts6QbkSxC1dgb6RqXakGqCMYRU2xe1iZwDfGkoI4H_w/s200/ragstain.jpg" width="150" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">I prefer to stain with a rag instead of a brush. Woodworkers traditionally use both methods, but I feel staining with a rag gives me better control over the amount of overlapping and results in a much better finished product. Remember to follow all instructions and wipe away the excess stain after a few minutes, or your stain will completely dry and leave a a thin layer of unsightly scum which will not take a final finish very well. Finish with a few sealing coats of your choice. I chose a semi-gloss lacquer to visually bring out the depth of the scratches and dents on the surface.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br /> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b><br />Are We Done?</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Now that we have this great new finish and protective coat, what next? In Part 2 of our project, we will learn how to properly polish 80+ years of brass tarnish, finding proper replacement hardware, and adding the aromatic cedar.</span></span><br />
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<br />The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-53557036904567562672012-06-01T06:36:00.000-07:002012-06-01T08:19:44.060-07:00Upcoming ProjectsAfter some time off at the shop taking care of pressing issues, I am happy to say Memorial Day Weekend was a welcome return to my saws, chisels, hand planes, and hammers. A dire need for shop space has also brought me back to where my experience in woodworking began, refinishing. There are two particular pieces I have had sitting around for quite some time and I am looking forward to having them done and gone, giving me more floorspace in my shop and my guest bedroom.<br />
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<h3>
The Lady's Vanity</h3>
The first is a piece is a lady's vanity from the 1930s. With no maker's mark in any of the drawers, one could only assume it was part of a larger set. It appears to be made of walnut, some veneered plywood, and oak, tinted with a dark red stain/dye, with a final coating of lacquer. The mirror is in pretty good condition, just a few scratches on the frame and mirror posts. The body of the vanity was in good usable condition, but there two glaring issues which are in need of repair.<br />
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<li>The veneer on the top is coming loose, and in a few places, was missing. It would be essential to re-glue the old veneer and patch the missing pieces.</li>
<li>On the left hand side there is a massive burn, possibly being set next to a radiator or something even hotter.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQP7OeYWRpwnTrgIobNoR7tgrXM7j1KnbTZnbsDIR8goMUhEA25wOqC733hXy1-7Awsv6ygoXpbeyIuxI_fdiSv3kMrh67XaFRgxK6zr67NvhuJZPfdpCsAn0qeFVIMoA7r7AXpxFbVks1/s1600/IMG_2133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQP7OeYWRpwnTrgIobNoR7tgrXM7j1KnbTZnbsDIR8goMUhEA25wOqC733hXy1-7Awsv6ygoXpbeyIuxI_fdiSv3kMrh67XaFRgxK6zr67NvhuJZPfdpCsAn0qeFVIMoA7r7AXpxFbVks1/s640/IMG_2133.jpg" width="480" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8PMBOCG5ahC0jLuIwYTjlHlb1m-y7p_g56f6SYFyIqUMY1uL-nTV_Lp-fMQI_ymKdOzxo_ir28YdRIz7vzg8roL75kbiSKPzBSfBiuz7uO08qwqxfU7XlfKxBv4XjRTN1tYUjVNaeF_vu/s1600/IMG_2125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8PMBOCG5ahC0jLuIwYTjlHlb1m-y7p_g56f6SYFyIqUMY1uL-nTV_Lp-fMQI_ymKdOzxo_ir28YdRIz7vzg8roL75kbiSKPzBSfBiuz7uO08qwqxfU7XlfKxBv4XjRTN1tYUjVNaeF_vu/s320/IMG_2125.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<h3>
The Classic Toolbox </h3>
The second piece once belonged to my to my neighbor's grandfather, and we estimate it at also being from the 1930s. It is a very larger toolbox, made of oak, and in a very "well loved" condition. Between the many scratches and <u>crazing</u>*, it also had a split piece of wood on it in need of replacement. <br />
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While this was a very wonderful piece, my need for a large, chest-styled toolbox was minimal, as was the room in my garage to use it as such. This tool chest would serve as a nice blanket chest, especially if it were lined with aromatic cedar. In additional, all eight brass chest corners appeared to be in great condition, just well aged. Buffed to a shine, or shown with a slight aged brass patina, these chest corners would offset nice against the dark wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwj3p6C1mfQ_toZRelyubiffgVHu71T_TaJHR9_vRJqcmF_m5uoE5Oa0keUUVr7X_LvC4UJJYBoQRBlvvD7DZ4h7Ge0gOM11gd54b5bJnXB2EudCcdXG2Cxz6TWp_88ep5LZhfdAp-nTYC/s1600/IMG_2121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwj3p6C1mfQ_toZRelyubiffgVHu71T_TaJHR9_vRJqcmF_m5uoE5Oa0keUUVr7X_LvC4UJJYBoQRBlvvD7DZ4h7Ge0gOM11gd54b5bJnXB2EudCcdXG2Cxz6TWp_88ep5LZhfdAp-nTYC/s320/IMG_2121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I will reserve future blog posts for the restoration of these pieces, so be sure to check back in the coming weeks for updates.<br />
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* Crazing is when a furniture's finish shows tiny cracks, resulting from the shrinkage of the finish. This can be attributed to many, many moons spent in direct sunlight (by a window) or from issues regarding humidity.The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com0Portsmouth, VA, USA36.8354258 -76.298274236.7337573 -76.456202699999992 36.937094300000005 -76.1403457tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3477514691004229679.post-59247740016946045172011-12-12T08:45:00.000-08:002011-12-12T13:24:58.256-08:00The Christmas Train Platform is completed!<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:180%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Scharl Christmas Platform</span></span><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span>Making the Magic Happen for a New Generation</span></span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">After 30 or so hours of work (and quite a bit of time in planning) the Christmas Train Platform is completed. Since the paint has not fully cured, I decided to sit it up on wood blocks, as to not ruin my carpet.</span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtlmjkANs7e357zeQgt6GwJCgCwM1kxv4hkwulblpUlTEFVAD7WijW-FWEx42UYIULhUswkhYErXNicuv_Wwp_VoVPQd2fvKqKVRM9-zN_mRjHcs9TCqKTsO1_QWCzXJ5A05DArzMjhCb/s1600/IMG_1780.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtlmjkANs7e357zeQgt6GwJCgCwM1kxv4hkwulblpUlTEFVAD7WijW-FWEx42UYIULhUswkhYErXNicuv_Wwp_VoVPQd2fvKqKVRM9-zN_mRjHcs9TCqKTsO1_QWCzXJ5A05DArzMjhCb/s400/IMG_1780.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685304026313863298" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Why a Christmas Platform?<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span></span></span><span style="font-size:100%;">Many people may wonder, why built a Christmas platform? Wouldn't it be easy just to put the train directly on the carpet? Yes, you can. But that's like playing with a dump truck and having no dirt to haul around. It's like having an empty BB gun with pretend bullets. It's almost as bad as having a Millennium Falcon and no Han Solo to fly it. Ridiculous!<br /><br />My dad taught me at an early age, if you're going to build something, make it nice. This platform combines everything I felt was essential for a jolly good time under the tree for children of all ages.<br /></span><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size:100%;"></span></span><br /><br />Planning and and Innovation</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:100%;">The initial concept of the platform came from one my father made years and I always adored as a child. It was an all-in-one Christmas display that introduced me to the concept of turning on tree, houses, and train with three different switches. We used an HO scale train with HO scale buildings, lit using a string of lights hidden under the platform (ingenious!). In addition, there was a hole in the middle just large enough for the tree to poke through. My father even wired up all the train components under the platform, so every single thing our train did, from switching tracks to blowing the whistle, seemed magical.<br /><br />This platform was one of my favorite Christmas memories, but there were a few things I wanted to change with Platform 2.0. The first was the massive size. At an impressive 4'x6', the platform had enough size for plenty of fun under the tree. However, it was a pain to move and an even bigger pain to store in the off-season. In addition, I do not like the exposed outlets because you see where everything is plugged in. And although green is a great color for the base of any other train model, it didn't fit in much with the Christmas theme I was looking for.</span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Size Matters</span><br /><br />Moving around the old platform was the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG08SV_EvI7mmdGbmWJ-nsknG7QDpBl3bcILIHPu-jxpNESUqityA_JOBcQ5BfJzNDDUjcJOY8heW9WgkfPwZZtgbOhcRtUfihzp_qzH1ycLee8WEYDUinNhh_l7sHKpDFky8QF26TkIdN/s1600/wilderness_canoe_carry.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG08SV_EvI7mmdGbmWJ-nsknG7QDpBl3bcILIHPu-jxpNESUqityA_JOBcQ5BfJzNDDUjcJOY8heW9WgkfPwZZtgbOhcRtUfihzp_qzH1ycLee8WEYDUinNhh_l7sHKpDFky8QF26TkIdN/s320/wilderness_canoe_carry.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685297018454336146" border="0" /></a>equivalent to carrying a canoe to the river. To counter the immense size needed for the platform, I decided to build the platform in three separate pieces. These pieces would be much easier to move and even easier to store. When in use, you could just lay the pieces next to one another, but I decided to use hex bolts and wing nuts to hold the sections together.<br /><br />The downside with separate pieces is you can see the seams after the pieces are assembled. If you look closely at the image at the top of this page you can see the slight lines in the separation of the pieces. After the project was finished, I think these lines are barely noticeable. The benefits of moving and storage greatly outweighed any moderately visible lines that would be encountered.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><span style="font-size:130%;">Wiring the Platform</span></span><br /><br />To hide the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5_T6i0Gm0aRIhsoP_Qb6OSgjMOileCV97YQGyXLx-9-OCPtFm70nhb36-6ybfL0WtobpHdEZnqoiqnx8ZX4pbrxZepWP18Kf708e2KT6lCVm4yRjcw2SnZkf7r9m-jPCO5lD1WOzaaNX9/s1600/wiring+hatch.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 120px; height: 120px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5_T6i0Gm0aRIhsoP_Qb6OSgjMOileCV97YQGyXLx-9-OCPtFm70nhb36-6ybfL0WtobpHdEZnqoiqnx8ZX4pbrxZepWP18Kf708e2KT6lCVm4yRjcw2SnZkf7r9m-jPCO5lD1WOzaaNX9/s400/wiring+hatch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685299881013101922" border="0" /></a>outlets, it was going to require <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YYKsKrn-7EG1Diy6gs_xXx7tqb5IYwwZVF5sc3mF0VlnupQfbGq5gbGOjkvQwijavoocqC_7o2doU17kaATJsBbSE01E0mrcqCSMHQh8Ix2r373r4BzR8sFmr9-Kn-M0ePXxVzi5xIYB/s1600/outlet-overload-1.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 238px; height: 355px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YYKsKrn-7EG1Diy6gs_xXx7tqb5IYwwZVF5sc3mF0VlnupQfbGq5gbGOjkvQwijavoocqC_7o2doU17kaATJsBbSE01E0mrcqCSMHQh8Ix2r373r4BzR8sFmr9-Kn-M0ePXxVzi5xIYB/s320/outlet-overload-1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685299591386329090" border="0" /></a><br />ingenuity. After a conversation with a friend, I figured small boat hatch would allow me to wire the underside of the platform and hide all of my outlets. The white color would also blend in with the white color I wanted to paint my platform<br /><br />When my father originally build his platform in the 1970s, a simple switch, like a light switch on your wall, was the best option for turning on the tree, houses, and train. Now Lowes and Home Depot sell wireless remotes available for your standard outlet. I plugged these into my outlets under the tree, so now I have a remote control to operate everything!<br /><br />Before you decide to plug everything into a single outlet, I strongly suggest adding up the amperage of everything you plan on plugging in. If this exceeds 15 amps, you may want to resort to using at least two outlets on two separate breakers. It is best to consult with an electrical professional before you overload a circuit and cause an electrical fire.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">White Christmas</span></span><br /><br />Since this is a scene of a Christmas village, with a Christmas train, and under a Christmas tree, I really wanted to a white platform to to tell the story of a wonderful snowy day in Scharlville. Painting the the platform white was a no-brainer, but would it alone contribute to the "wow factor" I needed?<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgThGAbtUCFNuyWiC8TOkNBNf5pAmb6dd9eFRhLNn-F7L7Eh9Du6xpvUmtaV2KcxaWPQzER-N38qC7zQcuYjv0fAE7Yyj0KiwCpBi2d5XzfXBNNLU121yQxcmwb4JL8qReO_1GzPPbtOtZC/s1600/snow+felt.jpg"></a><br />It was clear I had a few options: rolled felt, quilt batting, snow flocking, or <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgThGAbtUCFNuyWiC8TOkNBNf5pAmb6dd9eFRhLNn-F7L7Eh9Du6xpvUmtaV2KcxaWPQzER-N38qC7zQcuYjv0fAE7Yyj0KiwCpBi2d5XzfXBNNLU121yQxcmwb4JL8qReO_1GzPPbtOtZC/s1600/snow+felt.jpg"><img style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 154px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgThGAbtUCFNuyWiC8TOkNBNf5pAmb6dd9eFRhLNn-F7L7Eh9Du6xpvUmtaV2KcxaWPQzER-N38qC7zQcuYjv0fAE7Yyj0KiwCpBi2d5XzfXBNNLU121yQxcmwb4JL8qReO_1GzPPbtOtZC/s200/snow+felt.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685313602257960594" border="0" /></a>ceiling popcorn. The felt and quilt batting could possibly be dangerous around all the electrical connections, especially the train track. (Cotton and polyester are both very flammable.) Snow flocking was considered, but short-lived after googling the ingredients. Animal fat is one of the most prominent ingredients, and not something I wanted to store in the off season and bring back out year after year. Ceiling popcorn is textured, but a little too aggressive for the look I wanted. But wait . . . what about another type of ceiling texture?<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksxnWn1AEPnCZJKzykmGXyX6T8eu6dOtYH90Zyfze6z_ascdbqpUj_Q0Vzl3Q7a3eZnK7VwtSOnM3No2_wsgAT9_5sbAQjVG3pZM7xLfrl6YKDfgX7tq1yTHa9AuM1DO0yHqI4mD7bnQk/s1600/IMG_1791.jpg"><img style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 446px; height: 374px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjksxnWn1AEPnCZJKzykmGXyX6T8eu6dOtYH90Zyfze6z_ascdbqpUj_Q0Vzl3Q7a3eZnK7VwtSOnM3No2_wsgAT9_5sbAQjVG3pZM7xLfrl6YKDfgX7tq1yTHa9AuM1DO0yHqI4mD7bnQk/s400/IMG_1791.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685307475446122930" border="0" /></a>I decided on a mixture I had made a 18 months ago as a texture for my living room ceiling. It was a mixture of paint and sand, that rolled on fairly smooth, but with enough texture to hide ceiling imperfections . . . or emulate snow. So, after priming the three platform pieces, I rolled the snow texture on all exposed places of my platform.<br /><br />This turned out much better than expected, and even helped hide the seams between the three sections I made. Remember, anytime you paint a solid surface, the paint takes approximately three weeks to fully cure.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Rest of the Story</span></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /><br /></span>So with the platform finally complete, Jill came over last night and set up the rest of the display. Included in the Christmas display is an O-scale "Polar Express" train set, a 5' fiber optic tree I picked up from Rite-Aid six years ago, and Lemax Christmas buildings and figures, similar to those made Department 56. The true test of the Christmas magic will happen when my nephew Billy comes over and to play with Uncle Joe's train set.<br /><br />Below are a few more pictures of the fully decorated Christmas platform, followed by a video demonstrating the remote control.<br /><br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHxcDbN_eTn2vdYuumPb3YaQwAI40v4SbEltchIwldr119ZQNZsF1AlWHQeFPfuRj1BEtNzpnHgD9COXv8lrL7wDGKeBLT7D8UA3DRgpg9Zb6ITP9oXEehay9z9yBJ8rxjw1vifPwzAay/s1600/IMG_1783.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHxcDbN_eTn2vdYuumPb3YaQwAI40v4SbEltchIwldr119ZQNZsF1AlWHQeFPfuRj1BEtNzpnHgD9COXv8lrL7wDGKeBLT7D8UA3DRgpg9Zb6ITP9oXEehay9z9yBJ8rxjw1vifPwzAay/s320/IMG_1783.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685318424514873714" border="0" /></a>A night scene of Kringle's Toy Store and the Department Store, with the train in the background.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeHxcDbN_eTn2vdYuumPb3YaQwAI40v4SbEltchIwldr119ZQNZsF1AlWHQeFPfuRj1BEtNzpnHgD9COXv8lrL7wDGKeBLT7D8UA3DRgpg9Zb6ITP9oXEehay9z9yBJ8rxjw1vifPwzAay/s1600/IMG_1783.jpg"></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0JBK4oofR6D15ELwP34uprJr6QCamFmW2k6jy7W8mkD2N-Wg7R3K8p8QKsKhccY-ItPNgE8Jz9xUsKqeSjewpSxEbGYjlqMXPHnb55UmKCsapY44ntoxEYL62ozTUaQ-2GmQwgIs3DR3T/s1600/IMG_1786.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0JBK4oofR6D15ELwP34uprJr6QCamFmW2k6jy7W8mkD2N-Wg7R3K8p8QKsKhccY-ItPNgE8Jz9xUsKqeSjewpSxEbGYjlqMXPHnb55UmKCsapY44ntoxEYL62ozTUaQ-2GmQwgIs3DR3T/s320/IMG_1786.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685318417313749458" border="0" /></a>Side view demonstrating the texture on all exposed surfaces, giving a more complete look.<br /><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2aSxPYtEaVwGN1mu5upvlJfMsK912qTMqjma_vW8BwhDe_hI_GgLKIhfAlkl0uPPTOV9k6_op8g8iGuZPiybDgF7c9TAO4eYx4T6VYjwY768iZVH0Y5Nc7JoE5eFMjTMg2_uRU1aQw3n/s1600/IMG_1782.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp2aSxPYtEaVwGN1mu5upvlJfMsK912qTMqjma_vW8BwhDe_hI_GgLKIhfAlkl0uPPTOV9k6_op8g8iGuZPiybDgF7c9TAO4eYx4T6VYjwY768iZVH0Y5Nc7JoE5eFMjTMg2_uRU1aQw3n/s320/IMG_1782.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685318413877334338" border="0" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Another night scene, from a different angle.<br /><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBLCN9935P_cNgZS64odcINc0GKSjrJ-N1v914xU8LEBCMTSYzdsm4XWEzR0KHUgM5ZIe2Q6wBa3OPpRGuA4nSRq1z-1Qz7VTvEdOq4_RxiGux3yRVl7pm67tbW2pBXY_VV2eX7CbZwV2A/s1600/IMG_1784.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBLCN9935P_cNgZS64odcINc0GKSjrJ-N1v914xU8LEBCMTSYzdsm4XWEzR0KHUgM5ZIe2Q6wBa3OPpRGuA4nSRq1z-1Qz7VTvEdOq4_RxiGux3yRVl7pm67tbW2pBXY_VV2eX7CbZwV2A/s320/IMG_1784.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685318428275083922" border="0" /></a>The bag boy is so dedicated, trudging through the snow to carry groceries to an old lady's car.<br /><br /></div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzzMEoOSKSBjTjNJuXwf1jcgJ8VFp44_pvA2K-Gx_LOG35qFcxQ20T18XUC75tWAz_dAUFw2MI6JE7RbRNIJ6NNY2wG_fOcLaJWuwk-W4mgWluPB2_NOqbyHPWrsLLkIFHv1UtAhhFkv_9/s1600/IMG_1779.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzzMEoOSKSBjTjNJuXwf1jcgJ8VFp44_pvA2K-Gx_LOG35qFcxQ20T18XUC75tWAz_dAUFw2MI6JE7RbRNIJ6NNY2wG_fOcLaJWuwk-W4mgWluPB2_NOqbyHPWrsLLkIFHv1UtAhhFkv_9/s320/IMG_1779.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5685318414428155938" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Fully lit tree, star, and houses. The platform adds so much to aesthetics and function.<br /></div><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></span><br /><br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxogVqSr_fsLbploRgsdcpHzbIDIK2MNnrWFhwPJMPR7cEmjZE0F8WG1dol4FIEd_p9W28kY6vokOPeU2sk_g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-size:130%;"><br />If you have any questions on how this platform was built, any problems I encountered, techniques I used, suggested improvements, or simply a JWD (job well done), please feel free to post below.</span>The Idle Wood Workerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07270699303231921439noreply@blogger.com1