I’ve heard your requests loud and clear: you want better PDF printing options and a more inclusive size range. Those are 100% legit requests, and I want to deliver them! But I have a little confession: I’ve started and stopped the update process a few times because, well... I hit a bit of a creative roadblock.

A Lot Changes in a Decade

The thing about pants is that fashion is always moving. When I look at the Manhattan Trousers now, they feel a bit slim and the rise is lower than what most of us are reaching for today.

Plus, after 20 years of pattern making, I’ve learned some new tricks! Looking back at my older work is like looking at old high school photos—you appreciate them for the memories, but you’ve definitely leveled up since then. I see so much room for fit improvements that I’d almost call the original "amateur" compared to what I can do now.

What’s Next for SBCC Trousers?

I realized that if I’m going to do the work to extend the size range, reformat the files, and overhaul the instructions to match the new look, I want to start from a place of total confidence. Instead of just "fixing" the old, I’m leaning into building something new and even better. To everyone who has purchased and loved the Manhattan Trousers over the years: thank you! You are the reason I do this. I’m so grateful for your support, and I can’t wait to bring you a fresh, updated, and perfectly-fitted classic petite pant very soon.

Stay tuned—the best is yet to come!

I designed the Midtown Trousers with the intent that you could wear these to the office or a dinner. But I'm all about the multi purposes and I want a silhouette that you can rock in the aisles of Trader Joes without feeling too dressy. 

But have you seen the coolest part of them? The pockets are unique and I'm actually a little excited to be offering something I haven't seen before. It's two pockets in one for the both the front and the back. Double the stashing and double the space to put your hands when you don't know what to do with them. 

The Midtown Trousers are designed for non-stretch woven fabrics like twill, linen, and corduroy. But guys, I'm not gonna lie, different fabrications yield different looks, so keep this in mind. Lightweight fabrics like linen or some thin suiting create a flowy, curve hugging silhouette. You can see this in the photos of the black pair. On the opposite end, when you go for a heavier fabric like corduroy, they give more of a chino vibe, like the corduroy shown in blue. My advice is this- if you want to make, let's say, a corduroy fit like the black images, you may want to consider sizing down. Regardless, this is a fit that you have a lot of options with.

The Midtown Trousers come in a digital download format. Your purchase comes with a tiled PDF, copyshop, or projector file to choose from. The sizing is pretty extensive also, as it ranges from 00-32W and there are lengthen/shorten lines to help you make adjustments. Speaking of, remember, for pants, it's always best to choose your size based on your hip and then adjust for the waist. 

I hope you love the Midtown Trousers as much as I do and I can't wait to see what you make!

Get your copy HERE

The thing about the Stowe Sweatshirt is that it was designed to be a classic style. It's something that you can make over and over again and still feel timeless. Sure, lengths can change, but that's an easy one! As with most SBCC Patterns, my goal is to develop patterns that you can make, hack, and sew on repeat. 

The Stowe Sweatshirt is raglan style pullover with a crew cut neckline with cuffed long sleeves and a banded hem. The Tshirt view is a short sleeve raglan with a longer length and looser hem. It also features the same crew cut neckline. Both views have the option for a the traditional V front applique that is topstitched on. 

As I write this in early January, it's been a decidedly warm winter. My sweaters are looking a little lonely, but all of my Stowe Sweatshirts have been in full rotation. In fact, it was designed with seasonality in mind. You know those early days of spring where it's too cold yet for just a tee, but you don't need the sleeves anymore? Right, this is where the tshirt view comes into play. I call it a tshirt, but it's just a great transitional piece in the right fabric. 

Speaking of, I really I like to make the Tshirt view in French terry so it still has the warming feel of a sweatshirt. I even designed the short sleeve so you turn the hem outwards to show the loops of the French terry. But if that's not your thing, no worries! You can still make a regular turn back hem. For the sweatshirt view I would make this up in your favorite sweatshirt fabric. It could be French Terry, or something fleece lined. Just make sure there is still enough stretch because I want you to have maximum comfort. 

The cuffs, neckline and hem bands are all designed for a coordinating rib knit fabrication to allow for maximum stretch and recovery. If you don't have access to rib knit and choose to make the bands out of your main fabric, it's really important that you have a lot of stretch. You may even need to lengthen the bands a little. Just play around with it by perhaps cutting it a little longer, testing it out and then adjusting as needed. 

I completely understand the coordinating rib knit can be hard to find. I highly recommend Jumping June Textiles (not sponsored, just a personal fave). Their sweatshirt fleeces are very cozy and they have a great selection of matching rib knit. 

The Stowe Sweatshirt comes in sizes XXS-4X and is available in all of the usual formats: tiled PDF, copy shop, and projector. Because it is a relaxed fit, it does not have cup sizing. Instead I would recommend that you choose your size based on your chest, first and foremost. From here you can grade down to the hip that suits you best. 

Get your copy of the Stowe Sweatshirt here!

The barrel leg silhouette is definitely having it's moment. If this is your first time hearing about barrel leg jeans, typically they have a looser/boyfriend type fit around the waist and hips and slightly curve out at the knees. However, I've been in search of a unicorn for this type of style. I wanted something that wasn't too high rise, and still had a feminine fit around the waist and hips, with a subtle bow out at the knees. Unfortunately whenever I went to purchase a petite version from a RTW retailer, the results were comical. I felt like I was wearing clown pants. That's when I knew if I wanted something specific, I'd have to make it myself! 

Even if you thought barrel jeans were not for you, you may want to rethink that with the Berkshire Jeans. The bowed silhouette is slight and only noticeable from specific angles--basically it reads as an exaggerated utility pant. Yup, gotta love a lot of seaming and pocket details! 

I've made these in a few different fabrications, generally around the 10oz weight range in denim and 8 oz twill. My favorite pairs are the ones pictured. The brown/tan ones are made in a cotton twill, from Nick of Time Textiles  (no longer available :() and the white ones are a brushed bull denim from Matchy Matchy Sewing Club fabrics. 

Now this is important: Always pre-wash your fabric. But after that, I think the key to getting the look is to sew them up, finish them, and them wash them a few times before you wear them. Once they start to get worn in and the seams settle in, that's when they come into their own as a utility pant. 

There are a lot of seaming details on the Berkshire Barrel Jeans. I know that could be intimidating for new sewers or for anyone worried about grading between sizes. However, I have included how the pieces align in the sewing directions so you can see it's actually going to be a lot easier than you think! I've even included the sewing line on the pattern pieces this time, so it's easy to align and adjust as needed. 

As per the usual, these come in only a digital format. Your purchase comes with a tiled PDF, copyshop, or projector file to choose from. The sizing is pretty extensive also, as it ranges from 00-32W and there are lengthen/shorten lines on specific pieces to help you make adjustments. Speaking of, remember, for pants, it's always best to choose your size based on your hip and then adjust for the waist. 

Now, you may have noticed the name doesn't sound like a cocktail- the traditional SBCC naming method. (As far as I know, there isn't a cocktail named the Berkshire). I figured it was time to change things up. Instead, I was thinking about travelling and specific places that I have been or want to go to. The Berkshires have been on my list for awhile! 

But the naming isn't the only new and improved part of the Berkshire Jeans---The sewing directions have a new look! As the cost of printer ink has increased and the volume in which printers seem to suck the color cartridges dry, I wanted to switch to an all black and white format that uses less ink. For those of you who are printing the PDF pages, I know you already are using up a lot, so I wanted to make sure I'm being a little more considerate. 

Let me know what you think of the new sewing direction design and I hope you love the new Berkshire Barrel Jeans!

Want a quick synopsis on what projector printing is and how to set it up? Well, you've come to the right place!

Projector file options for PDF sewing pattern files have increased in popularity and it's now pretty common for most downloadable sewing patterns to offer a projector file as part of the deliverable options along with copy shop and tiled PDFS.

But if you are new to using projector files or you want to find out more, it can feel a little overwhelming on where to start. But not to worry! We will cover all the basics so you are up to speed and perhaps ready to give this option a go! 

Now fair warning, if you are getting started, this does take a little bit of research for finding the right projector, installation, and calibration. It's an investment in not only money, but time. However, it can improve your sewing workflow.

Why would you use a projector?

A projector allows you to take a digital PDF sewing pattern and project it onto a flat surface where your fabric is spread. With a projector, you are able to eliminate paper for your sewing patterns. This means no more pasting together printout pages or waiting for a copy shop to printout or send in the mail. 

Projecting an image can also help if you are doing a lot of pattern matching or pattern placement so you can see exactly where you are cutting and how motifs will be laid out on the pattern piece. 

What is a projector file?

When you purchase a sewing pattern, such as an SBCC pattern, that has a projector option you will receive a generic PDF file that you can open with any PDF reader program. A projector file is not a special file type, it's just the setup within a traditional PDF. Typically, the file name will indicate that it is for a projector.

In the file you will find each size as it's own layer for visibility, the pattern pieces laid in all the same direction and different grid layers that indicate scale so you can calibrate and ensure that your pattern is projecting correctly. In the case of SBCC Patterns there is a layer option for 1" x 1" grids and another for 10 cm x10cm for metric users. 

What equipment do you need?

To use a projector for cutting your sewing pattern out you will need to purchase a projector. They can vary significantly in price depending on what you need. The most common type used is a ceiling mount projector, but there are other table top options available. 

Additional equipment:

• You will need to have a mount that your projector is suspended for the ceiling mounts
• Long HDMI cable (if connecting directly to computer) and additional hardware to secure cords away. 
• Computer, tablet or phone
• Ruler to check calibration
• PDF reader

Throw distance

Throw distance is the length at which an image is projected and is something to be considered when shopping around for projectors. The larger the throw distance the further away your projector needs to be set up from your cutting area. There are projectors specifically designed for short throw distances, which may be the best option if you have 4 feet or less from your projector to table. 

Getting started

Once you are connected to the projector with your computer, phone or tablet you will start projecting images. You can use screen mirroring or Chromecast if you are using your phone or tablet. From here you can manipulate the PDF file on the screen so it is positioned over your fabric. You can also manipulate the fabric for what is being projected. Just make sure to double check that everything is to scale!

Modifying patterns

You may find the need to grade between sizes, make pattern adjustments or shift pieces around for improved cutting layouts. This is a little more advanced, but definitely doable. You can use software such as Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator to make more complex adjustments. 

Conclusion

We have only just touched on the basics of using a projector so you can figure out if this is something that you would like to dive into further. There are a lot of really fun and amazing ways that you can manipulate patterns digitally so no paper is needed! 

Additional resources

There are a lot of resources and YouTube videos available for you to learn about projector reviews and tutorials. There is even a Facebook group. Once you start Googling, you'll be amazed at all the resources available. I highly recommend that anyone starting out wanting all the details should check out projectorsewing.com

When we change our look in a way that transforms, something happens and we all take notice. There is a certain air and confidence. So let's get noticed! 

Introducing the fanciest pattern that I've ever made for SBCC- the Bianco Dress! No more costly off the rack formal wear that doesn't fit. The Bianco Dress is designed for your petite proportions: 

-It's a length that is what I would consider "cropped midi" for petites. This gives us shorties some Dior "New Look" vibes. 

-The skirt, omg, the skirt! It's a very full skirt with side panel details and seaming that I would dare any RTW to try to affordably duplicate (this is why we sew!)

-Pockets? Yes, please! They are hidden in the front skirt seams. 

-The bodice is intended to be reminiscent of a corset, but without the whole restriction and not being able to breathe thing. It's feminine and the details are fun. 

-You have the option of making it as a strappy sleeveless style or with a full gathered short sleeve. 

-You know I'm fixated on where the waist seam hits to make it petite-friendly. The Bianco is in the right spot and it features a subtle V dip at the center. 

This dress is all about the details. But the standards are still in place- It comes in sizes XXS-4X, B,C & D cup sizing, and copy shop, print at home and projector options. 

To be honest with you- I had no occasion that inspired the Bianco Dress. Instead I used this as an excuse to use the fanciest fabrics- brocade, velvet, and satin. I'm generally a sucker for anything easy like jersey and cottons, but working with fancy fabrics, it allows you a new perspective and an opportunity to level up your sewing skills. 

The Bianco Dress is what I would consider an advanced sewers project. But if you are here because you just love the style- then go for it!  

Here's why I think it is for advanced: Some of the seaming like the front V point and the side hip panels on the skirt can be tricky to sew, even for experienced sewers. Additionally, fabric will be a major influence in the look of your garment and how it will sew up. For instance, satin is slippery. When working with velvet you really have to consider the layout of the pieces on the fabric to avoid shading issues. Brocades and metallics can fray quite a bit. Novelty fabrics will all behave very differently and there will be a distinctive personality to whatever you choose.  Be prepared to address them as they arise.

I don't say any of this to discourage you, but rather to let you know what the hurdles could be so when you stumble a bit, know it's not just you. Keep on and take a breather if it's not cooperating. This advice proves true for whatever project you are working on. 

Grab your copy of the Bianco Dress today! It's never to early to start sewing for those big events in 2024! Frocktails anyone?

Download your copy today!

1. Apply the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the front body center front edges.

2. With right sides together, sew the center front to the side front with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

3. With right sides together, sew the center back pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Sew the side back panels to the center back panels with 1/2” (1.2 cm) seam allowance.

4. With right sides together, sew the front shoulder to the back shoulder with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

5. With right sides together, sew the back facing pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.

6. With right sides together, sew the front facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

7. With right sides together, align the facing neckline edge to the neckline edge of the body. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Pivot at the the dot at the center front edge. Stop sewing at the dot on the bottom edge.

8. Understitch the neckline seam allowance towards the facing all around the neck and to bottom of center front edge, pivoting at the same points as  step 7. Turn back the facing to the previous position where right sides are together. 

9. With right sides together, sew the armhole edge of the facing to the armhole edge of the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

10. Working on the right side of the garment, understitch the armhole seam allowance towards the facing. Start at the front underarm and go up as far as you can towards the shoulder seam and stop. Repeat for the back armhole, starting at the back underarm. Repeat for the opposite side.

11. Turn the vest right side out by pulling the front body to the back through the tunnel of the shoulder. Repeat for the opposite side. Once the garment is right side out, press the neckline and armhole edges flat.

12. Time to close the side seams! Flip the armhole facing up/away from the body. With right sides together, align the front and back body along the side seams, also aligning the facings at the side seams. Sew together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

13. Make the faux pockets:

Fold faux welt in half, matching long sides, with wrong sides together. Press flat.  

14. Push facing away so it is not included in the following steps.
Align the open edge of the faux welt to the body markings. (The folded side should point towards the hem.) Stitch through all layers with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance, starting and stopping exactly at the dots. 

15. Turn the faux welt up and press flat. Turn the edges in 1/2” (1.2cm) and iron flat. Edgestitch next to the folded edge, through all layers, on each side to secure to the body.

16. Turnback the facing edge with the narrowest turnback you can manage (recommending 1/4” (6mm) or less. Iron flat and then edgestitch next to the folded edge to secure the turnback to the facing. 

17. On the inside of the garment, tack the lower edge of the facing to the body at underarms, center back and princess seams, invisibly either by hand or machine.

18. At the bottom center front hem edge, turn the facing and outer body so right sides are together. Sew the bottom center front edge and the facing together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. 

19. For the remaining bottom hem you can either turn back the edge 1/2” (1.2cm) towards the wrong side and topstitch/blindstitch or you can turn back the edge 1/4” (6mm) twice towards the wrong side and topstitch. The hem turn back should be level where the facing finished. 

20. Use the button placement guide on the facing pieces to mark the position of the buttons. Position the button and buttonholes as per sketch- buttons on wearers left side, buttonholes on wearers right side.
Tip: Mark the position before making the holes and try the garment on. One button should be placed at your apex level to prevent gaping. Re-space if necessary.

And Voila! You have a Sazerac Vest. What do you think? Make sure to tag your makes on Instagram using #SBCCSazerac

1. Make the pocket: Fold the pocket trim in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.

2. On the wrong side of the pocket bag, sew the pocket trim to the pocket with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. 

3. On the wrong side of the pocket bag, Press the seam allowance of the pocket trim and bag down towards the pocket. Understitch the seam allowance to the pocket bag. 

4. Flip the pocket trim over to the right side of the pocket bag and press flat. Baste the trim piece to the pocket bag along the sides.

5. On the right side of the side front piece place the pocket facedown aligning V notches so right sides are together. Sew straight across through both layers.

6. Pull the pocket up matching the top edges to the upper V notches. Baste the pocket bag to the body along each side. Repeat for the opposite side. 

7. Apply the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the front body center front edges.

8. Fold the outer edges of the long side of the tie in to meet at the center. Iron flat. Fold the length of the tie in half to match the folded edges. Iron flat again. Sew together along the open edge through all layers. Repeat for the opposite side.

9. Position the waist tie above the front pocket bag on the side front body. Baste in place. Tip: Tuck ties into pocket bags to keep them out the the way while you work.

10. With right sides together, sew the center front to the side front with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

11. With right sides together, sew the center back pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Sew the side back panels to the center back panels with 1/2” (1.2 cm) seam allowance.

12. With right sides together, sew the front shoulder to the back shoulder with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

13. With right sides together, sew the back facing pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.

14. With right sides together, sew the front facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

15. With right sides together, align the facing neckline edge to the neckline edge of the body. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Pivot at the the dot at the center front edge. Stop sewing at the dot on the bottom edge.

16. Understitch the neckline seam allowance towards the facing all around the neck and to bottom of center front edge, pivoting at the same points as illustrated in step 15. Turn back the facing to the previous position where right sides are together. 

17. With right sides together, sew the armhole edge of the facing to the armhole edge of the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

18. Working on the right side of the garment, understitch the armhole seam allowance towards the facing. Start at the front underarm and go up as far as you can towards the shoulder seam and stop. Repeat for the back armhole, starting at the back underarm. Repeat for the opposite side.

19. Turn the dress/vest right side out by pulling the front body to the back through the tunnel of the shoulder. Repeat for the opposite side. Once the garment is right side out, press the neckline and armhole edges flat.

20. Time to close the side seams! Flip the armhole facing up/away from the body. With right sides together, align the front and back body along the side seams, also aligning the facings at the side seams. Sew together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

21. Turnback the facing edge with the narrowest turnback you can manage (recommending 1/4” (6mm) or less. Iron flat and then edgestitch next to the folded edge to secure the turnback to the facing. 

22. On the inside of the garment, tack the lower edge of the facing to the body at underarms, center back and princess seams, invisibly either by hand or machine.

23. At the bottom center front hem edge, turn the facing and outer body so right sides are together. Sew the bottom center front edge and the facing together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. 

24. For the remaining bottom hem you can either turn back the edge 1/2” (1.2cm) towards the wrong side and topstitch/blindstitch or you can turn back the edge 1/4” (6mm) twice towards the wrong side and topstitch. The hem turn back should be level where the facing finished. 

25. Use the button placement guide on the facing pieces to mark the position of the buttons. Position the button and buttonholes as per sketch- buttons on wearers left side, buttonholes on wearers right side.
Tip: Mark the position before making the holes and try the garment on. One button should be placed at your apex level to prevent gaping. Re-space if necessary.

And Voila! You have a Sazerac Dress. What do you think? Make sure to tag your makes on Instagram using #SBCCSazerac

I've been waiting, poised to pounce on the moment that vests started having their moment again, and friends, I think that moment is upon us- or at least I'm saying it is. Meet the Sazerac Vest and Dress. Yes, you heard me right- a vest and a dress! It just makes sense that a traditional princess seam vest can easily become a dress and you know how I love options. 

I wanted a vest that could be worn as a top during the summer, but nothing seems to exist that is petite friendly- all the vests were just too low cut for shorties. The neckline on the Sazerac is just right for petites to be able to confidently wear and not feel too exposed. 

The thing I love about this pattern is that it is seasonless. The dress can easily be made in something lightweight and flowy for the sleeveless summer option, but then also out of something thicker and heavier like a suiting fabric and worn with a turtleneck or a long sleeve blouse for the fall and winter with your favorite boots. The vest can be made out of wool as a layering item for colder temps and then made out of linen for the warmer season. 

Now there are a couple of things that I took an unconventional stance on. Firstly, the Sazerac Vest and Dress are unlined. We don't necessarily need additional layers that make it hot to wear and heavy. I did experiment with putting in a lining in the vest view, but guys, the steps involved were crazy. The process was just as complex as a fully lined jacket, if not more so. I stopped mid sample and chucked the idea.  I feel like this should be a quick-ish sew. 

Secondly, this may be a controversial move, but not every part of your sewing projects has to be bragworthy of couture-like finishes. I'm giving you a pass on the vest pockets because they are faux. Let's face it, nothing fits in these pockets. Why spend the time on something that is not useable. You aren't going to put your hands here, your phone wont fit, and even the standard car key would be too big. You don't have to include them at all, but I thought it added to the traditional look without all the work. 

The dress view does feature deep, accommodating pockets with a cuffed edge top to give it a little something extra. It's a detail that is quick to do. The dress also has the option to include waist ties that wrap around the body if you want more definition here, but the Sazerac is rather shapely. If you want to do the waist ties, make sure to refer to the cutting chart in the sewing directions because they were too long to include  as an actual pattern piece. 

The Sazerac Vest and Dress also features 3 different cup sizes to make sure you are covered for your personalized fit. The sizing is XXS-4X, so every body is included.

The best fabrics to use are woven non-stretch. This means you have lots of options: suiting fabrics, flannel, linen, rayon, heavier weight silks, etc..There is a lot of room for creativity here. 

Get your copy of the Sazerac Vest and Dress today!

Do you want to learn how to do the most fabulous hack with two of SBCC's most versatile patterns? You don't want to miss this one! 

Turning your Martini top into a romper or jumpsuit with the help of the Greenpoint shorts and pants is a super simple project with only a couple of extra steps. Here's how you do it: 

1) If you are using the XXS-XL range of the Greenpoint shorts/pants you will need to add 5/8" (1.5cm) to the waist, blending to zero at the hip/leg opening. 

Shift the pocket notches over 5/8" (1.5cm)

2) If you are using the L-4X range of the Greenpoint shorts/pants you will need to reduce the front waist 7/8" (2.2cm). Blend to zero at the hip/leg opening.

Shift the pocket notches in 7/8 (2.2cm)

3) Assemble the Greenpoint shorts or pants, following the directions until you get to the waistband. Stop here. 

4) Using the horizontal cut line for the "Dress view", Take the back of the Martini t-shirt or the tank top and make it a full piece. 

5) Draw a line from the neck point diagonally across the back to the opposite side hem 3/8" (1cm) away from the side seam.  Cut along this diagonal line for your new back piece. 

6) You will need to cut additional trim length for the revised neckline. Here is the exact length needed for each size: 

From this point, it's only a change of sewing order operations from the Martini. 

7) With right sides together, sew the front and back shoulder seams. Turn right side out.

8) Apply neckline trim from the back edge, around the front neck, then around to the opposite side back edge using the same technique as shown in the Martini sewing directions.

9) If you are making the tank view, apply the armhole trim.

10) If you are making the t view, follow the steps for inserting the sleeve.

11) With right sides together, sew the front and back side seams together. 

12) Overlap the back panels so the back edges touch the side seams. Baste in place.

13) From here you can follow the Martini directions for joining the shorts to the waistband and the top to the waistband. 

What do you think? Are you ready for this hack? 

Get your copy of the Martini Dress, Tank and Tee here

Get your copy of the Greenpoint pants and shorts here

Last summer I made patterns for a basic tee and my favorite tank top. It was intended to be a personal project because, let’s face it, there are lots of free tee and tank patterns out there. But then I started thinking that if I can’t find anything that fits right as either a sewing pattern or a store-bought garment, then the rest of my petite posse probably has the same problem. 

But why stop with just a basic tank and tee? Let’s just add a skirt and make the world's comfiest dress so we never have to think about what to wear anymore- m'kay? 

My uniform is either a Martini dress or one of the top views with the Barrymore Jeans or Greenpoint shorts. That’s all I’m wearing these days. 

What you get with the Martini pattern: 

-Basic cap sleeve t-shirt that hits at the right spot on the hip where you don’t feel like you are wearing a dress. 

-Tank top- this has cut in shoulders for a sporty look, but ample coverage at the lower armhole to avoid exposing your bra or armpit flesh. 

-Both the tank and tee have what I call a “cropped” option. It’s similar to the Sangria tee where it’s just short enough to skim the top of your waistband, but not too short where you are showing skin. 

-The tee and tank can be made with a skirt option with roomy side seam pockets. The waistband of the skirt has an elastic casing so you can adjust how tight or loose you would like it to look. 

-The tops contain a “full bust” pattern piece. If you have an ample chest or typically require an FBA, use this one. It has a bust dart to ensure you can move and you have enough coverage in your tank tops. Pro tip: if you find that tank armholes are too long/gaping at the front, you should go with the full bust dart option. 

The Martini is intended for knit fabrics. For my dresses, I used a medium-weight French terry and they are so comfy! The tees and tanks can easily be made with most knits- just make sure there is good amount of two-way stretch. 

As per the usual SBCC standards, the Martini Dress is sized from XXS- 4X, and with the full bust options, you should be covered! 

The Martini Dress is a digital download pattern, available as a print-at-home tiled PDF, copy shop, and projector file options all with layered sizing so you can customize the printing to your needs. 

I think the biggest thing to keep in mind when working on your Clover is to iron/steam seams back into place after stitching. The sewing tends to stretch the seams, but with a little ironing skills, it's easy to put things back into place. 

Let's dive in! This post is going to cover all the steps, so it's one-stop-shopping for your project.

1) With the wrong side of the neckline facing piece facing up, apply the interfacing to neckline facing piece first and then iron the bottom edge seam allowance up 3/8” (1cm).

2) With right sides together, sew the top edge of the neckline facing to the front body neck edge with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance.

3) Understitch the seam allowance towards the facing side.

4) Working on the wrong side of the front, stitch the bottom facing edge through all layers to secure.

5) Trim off any facing edges that extend past the body so the edge is smooth.

6) Fold the back neckline trim in half the long way with wrong sides together. Iron flat.

7) Sew the neckline trim to the back neck edge with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance (folded edge towards body). Suggest to slightly stretch trim to ensure a flat neckline.

8) Understitch the seam allowance towards the neckline trim. 

9) Fold the neckline trim down into neckline curve. Stitch the bottom edge through all layers. Trim away any excess neck trim length that extends past the shoulder edge. 

View B - Square Neck

10) Fold the top front shoulder in half with wrong sides together. Baste the armhole edges. Be careful not to stretch out of shape. 

11) Align the angled portion of the top front shoulder to the angled portion of the front body, matching notches. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Turn the shoulder piece upright, ensuring that the neckline will have a sharp corner. If it does not, you may want to remove stitching and re-align again. 

12) Iron the seam allowance upwards and topstitch 1/4” (.6mm) above the seam. Iron flat, ensuring everything looks smooth.

View A - Peekaboo Front

13) Put a mark or a pin on the facing piece to easily identify. Align the upper front and upper front facing. Sew lower edges together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. 

14) Understitch the seam allowance towards the facing side. 

15) With right sides together, sew the upper front neckline edge to the upper front facing neckline edge. Turn right side out, carefully ironing flat, ensuring the facing is not visible. 

16) Baste the armhole edges together. 

17)  Align the upper front over top of the front, matching notches, and baste in place.  Trim off any edges that extend past the armhole curves.

All Views:

18) With right sides together, sew the front shoulder seam to the back shoulder seam with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side. 

19) Tack the shoulder seam allowance toward the back at the neck with a few back and forth stitches. 

20) With right sides together, align the sleeve cap to the armhole, matching notches. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

21) With right sides together, sew the side seams with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance starting from sleeve hem all the way to the bottom hip edge.

Bodysuit Legs

22) Apply the interfacing to crotch edges, on the wrong side. Then, on the right side of the leg openings, sew the elastic to the leg edge using a zig-zag stitch to allow for stretch. Do not stretch elastic.

23) Turn the elastic in towards the wrong side twice so elastic is encased. Stitch through all layers with a zig zag stitch.

24) Turnback bottom edge 1/4” (6mm) and then 1”. Topstitch through all layers for both the front and the back. 

25) Transfer snap markings on pattern pieces to the front and back crotch extensions. Position and attach your snaps so the back body goes over top of the front. 

26) Turnback the sleeve hems 3/4” (2cm) and sew with a stitch that will stretch. Repeat the same for the t-shirt view bottom hem.

Thanks so much for reading and following along!

This post is going to be comprehensive for all steps. It's going to be a long one, but I find it better to have all information in one place instead of having to jump back and forth between different posts.

Any steps that are followed by an asterisk "*" indicate the use of denim topstitching thread, if so intended. 

1) With right sides together, sew the back yoke to the back leg with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Iron seam allowance up and topstitch in place*.

Double needle topstitching above the yoke seam is recommended for traditional jeans look.

2) On the back pocket piece, turn back the sides and bottom edges in towards the wrong side 1/2” (1.2cm) and iron flat. Stitch* through all layers 3/8” (1cm) in from the edge. Turnback the top edge of the pocket bag 1/4” (.6cm) and then 1/2” (1.2cm), towards the wrong side. Topstitch* 3/8” (1cm) from the edge.

3) Using the circles on the back leg pattern piece, transfer these markings to your back leg pieces using chalk, tailor tacks, or your preferred method.

Align the back pockets to the markings. Topstitch* through all layers from the top edge of the pocket, around the bottom and up the remaining side. Make sure that the top edges get a couple of extra stitches back and forth for reinforcement.

4) With the right side of the pocket bag facing up, position the pocket facing piece on the side without the curved cut out. Edgestitch the facing to the pocket bag.

5) With right sides together, sew the pocket bag to the pocket opening on the front of the jeans, along the curved edge, with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Trim seam allowance off to approximately 1/8” (3mm) width to ensure a smooth curved edge. Repeat for the opposite side.

6) Pull the pocket bag upwards and iron the seam  allowance up. Understitch the seam allowance towards the pocket bag side along the pocket opening curve. Repeat for the opposite side.

7) Turn the pocket bag to the inside of the front leg. Working on the outside of the front leg, iron the pocket opening curve, ensuring that the pocket bag is not visible from the outside. *Edgestitch next to the curve through all layers. Add an additional row of topstitching 1/4”(1.2cm) away from previous stitches, if desired. Repeat for the opposite side.

8) (A) Working on the wrong side of the front leg, fold the pocket bag in half, matching edges at the hip. Sew the bottom of the pocket bag together (right sides will be together) with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.
(B) Baste the top edge of the pocket to the front of the leg and along the side seam.

9) With right sides together, sew the front leg to the back leg along the side seams with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

10) With right sides together, sew the front inseam to the back inseam with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Turn right side out. Repeat for the opposite side.

11) Mark the dot on the front leg crotch curve on the wrong side. With right sides together, sew the right leg to the left leg by matching the crotch curves. Sew together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Stop exactly at dot on the front.

Optional topstitching*: Iron the seam allowance towards the wearers left side. Edgestitch through all layers, stopping exactly at the dot on the front.

12) Fold back the center front fly edge 3/8” (1cm) on the wearers right side. Iron flat. 

Trim off 3/8” (1cm) along the line on the wearers left front.

13) Position the zipper tape underneath the folded edge of the wearers right side front. Align zipper teeth along side the folded edge. Position zipper stop to end at the front dot/where crotch sewing ended. Edgestitch along the folded edge to secure the zipper to the front.

14) With right sides together, sew the fly facing to the wearers left front with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance, stopping at the dot. Turn the fly facing to the inside and iron flat so the facing is not visible from the outside. 

Optional Topstitching*: Add an edgestitch along the center front edge that will match back to where the crotch topstitching ended in step 11.

15) Working on the right side, arrange the front edge so the center front lays flat and smooth. Pin the loose side of the zipper tape and fly facing through the front. 

Working on the inside, carefully remove the outside pins while holding the zipper and facing in place. Pin the zipper tape to only the fly facing. 

Sew the zipper to the facing piece, through the center of the zipper tape.

16) On the right side of the jeans, place the fly template on wearers left side, aligning it to the center front edge. Using chalk or removable marker, trace the shape.

Follow the marks to apply a topstitch,* or double needle topstitch, through the front and the fly facing to secure the layers together. Ensure that topstitching will not hit zipper stop.

17)  Fold the fly shield in half, wrong sides together, and iron flat. Stitch the bottom edge and long vertical edge together. 

18) On the inside, position the fly shield on top of the zipper. Align the notch on the top of the fly shield to the zipper teeth edge. Pin or baste in place. 

Working on the right side, open the zipper and topstitch on the exact same stitching line as you used to join the zipper to the wearers right side to secure the zipper shield in step 13. 

19) Close zipper. On the outside of the jeans, do a couple of horizontal stitches over top the fly topstitching at the lower part of the curve to secure the fly shield. Make sure that you don’t accidentally catch the back of the jeans with this step.

20) Make the belt loops. Fold the long vertical edges inwards using the notches as a guide. The folded edges should overlap. Iron flat.

Edgestitch each side. Divide and cut the loops into 5 sections.

21) Position loops right side down at “V” notches along the top waist edge. Baste in place. 
Mark 1” (2.5cm) down from the top edge of each loop. Topstitch the loops to the jeans. 

22) With right sides together, sew the left waistband to the right waistband with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the remaining set of waistband pieces.

23) Align the two sets of waistbands along the top edge with right sides together. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance.

24) Open the waistband and understitch the seam allowance towards the facing side. (Facing side can be identified by orientating the waistband as the sketch, using wearers left side notches as a guide.)

25) With the wrong side up, on the facing side of the waistband, turn up the bottom edge 1/4” (6mm). Iron flat all the way across the bottom edge.

26) With right sides together, sew the waistband to the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance, matching notches to center back and side seams. Make sure that edges of the waistband extend past the front edges 3/8" (1cm) each side. Pull waistband up and iron seam allowance upwards. 

27) With the wrong side of the waistband facing up, take the center front vertical edges and turn in the edge 3/8” (1cm) and iron flat. You can use the center front edge of the zipper front as a guide.

28) Hand baste the waistband facing in place on the inside of the jeans. Start at the center front and continuing to the opposite side. 

29) Working on the outside of the jeans,
edgestitch* all around waistband to secure the center front edge and the facing. Remove the basting stitches.

30) One-by-one, pull each belt loops to the top of the waistband and tuck the end underneath itself. Topstitch* a few times back and forth across the top and the bottom edge of the loop through all layers. 

31) Turn back the bottom hem edge 1/2” (1.2cm) twice and topstitch * through all layers. 

32) Follow the marks on the waistband pieces to make your buttonhole for the wearers left side and position the center front button into place on the wearers right side.

That's it! How did your jeans turn out? I hope you enjoy them :)

When I started working on the Barrymore jeans I realized I just couldn’t wear only the cropped Sangria Tee with them all the time. I needed something with a little more sleeve and a neckline that can be worn for dressier occasions. Nothing beats the sleek, tucked in look of a bodysuit. 

But even if you are like- “No way” for bodysuit, I hear you and see you. You can make it as a t-shirt as well. In fact, if you are a fan of the FREE TONIC TEE, the body has a similar fit, this time with a long sleeve option. But there is also a 3/4, or elbow length and short cap sleeve options for you to mix and match with. 

I really wanted a square neck t-shirt, but everything out there gapes or it has a weird binding or clunky facing. I’m pretty pleased with the clever construction to get this neckline just right. And it’s easy to modify if you do find that it gapes a little on you, because let’s face it, our bodies are all unique and we sew so we can customize. 

The peekaboo front was a last minute lightbulb moment when I realized it would be pretty easy to make in a manner very closely related to the square neck. Plus I had that moment of smugness where it’s like- no one does this type of style for petites. An average height version of this would be less peekaboo and more "full show". It’s a fun style that you can whip up quickly for a night out, styled up or in a casual fabric for everyday errands. 

Fabric

The Clover Bodysuit and T-shirt is designed for knit fabrics. The stretchier the better. I put this style into more of the advanced category only because you really need to have a good handle on working with lightweight stretchy knits. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not hard, but you do have to have patience to ensure that nothing gets too stretched out during handling. 

The best type of knit would be anything that is really stretchy, lightweight and drapey. Bamboo knits work great, cotton modal blends are also a good fit. Even a lighter weight spandex would work good- if you are going for that sort of look. I would avoid thick knits like ponte or French Terry. 

Special Trims needed: 

Knit interfacing: The best way to control the neckline shape is with knit interfacing for the facing pieces and the crotch endpoints on the bodysuit view. It’s good to have a little bit of stretch here so it moves with the fabric, but still holds the shape. If you don’t have this in your stash, do not hesitate to buy. It’s the only interfacing I use, even for woven fabrics. The stiff papery stuff does you no favors.

Swimwear elastic for bodysuit view: 

Yes, you can get by with regular elastic, as long as it is not too thick, or even clear elastic tape. But the best results I got were with swimwear elastic and I love it! So worth the sourcing effort. I had never worked with this before, but it’s super simple to apply and the thickness makes it really easy to handle. For the leg construction, it’s best to put in totally flat without stretching. 

I got my elastic from this supplier, who also has some really good video tutorials on using it. 

Snaps for bodysuit view: 

I recommend using something small and low profile since you really don’t want a bunch of metal down here (but don’t worry- the join point is more forward so you don’t have to be a contortionist). 

Sizing

As per the usual SBCC standard, this comes in sizes XXS-4X. It’s a fitted knit style so there are no cup sizes here. I always recommend choosing your size based on your full bust first and foremost as waist and hip alterations are much more manageable. 

But before I go into the details. I just want to share how I felt in the store bought jeans that I tried. Does anyone remember Steve Urkel from the television sitcom back in the 90’s? Well, that was the look and I was not feeling very cool girl.

via GIPHY

We’ve all heard the news that low rise jeans are “out” as far as 2023 trends go (even if you don't follow trends it means less options in the stores). But as petites, these are the go to jeans because they look like normal rises on us. Now everything is super high and no one is thinking about petites….but I am!

I say the Barrymore jeans are high rise, but high rise doesn’t mean ribcage level for petites. Nope. Won’t work for us. The sweet spot is where the front rise hits at the belly button level. Trust me on this. If the rise is too high, you can’t bend over, and that’s a problem. Not with the Barrymore Jeans. In fact, I also took the engineering a step further to ensure you can get maximum movement, bending and kneeling as though you are wearing your favorite yoga pants.  

Let’s talk legs! Just like high rise doesn’t mean super high, wide legs are not extra wide. They are just wide enough so they look proportional to a petite frame. To an average height person they may be considered straight leg, but for us, they do the trick! Now I know that cropped isn’t everyone's cup of tea. That’s why I have 3 different inseam lengths to choose from- 29, 27, & 25” inseam lengths. If you find that you prefer longer, that’s an easy add on. 

Fabric: 

I went back and forth so much with this, but landed on non-stretch denim. It had the best drape for the look I wanted and was the most readily available. Most of my samples were made with 100% cotton denim 10oz from Joann fabrics. If you want to make it using a stretch denim, I would say size down and do a test to see how it’s going to work for you. 

Most of our wardrobe is stretch these days so a rigid denim may not sound the ideal, but trust me, it’s comfortable. The first wear after making or washing may feel a little snug around the waist, but it then relaxes into a comfy fit. 

Go ahead and think outside the box with the fabric! Corduroy or cotton twill is also a good choice. Yes, these are jeans, but truthfully they are a good overall woven pant.

Special trims: 

Front button- any old button will work, but if you really want the look of jean, you can order jean buttons from Wawak, like I did. They seem a bit intimidating, but I gave it a try to see what I could do without a special press. Here’s how I did it “professionally”- I put my jeans on the carpeted floor, knelt down and positioned the button and then turned it facedown to the carpet. On the inside of the waistband I put the screw in place, grabbed a hammer and gave it a few good whacks- voila! (I also tried it button face up with a fabric scrap for protection and it worked just fine.) There's really nothing to it.

Rivets: You can go this route if you want the entire jean look. I bought them, but have yet to utilize them yet. 

Jean zipper- Metal zippers are the most traditional for jeans and the sturdiest. However, the zipper is not going to be seen so if you can only find a plastic one, that’s fine.  

So what do you think? Are you ready to join me as part of the petite jean revolution? Get your copy to give it a try!

So much goes into the creation of the patterns that it's really hard to make this happen. However, this time the stars aligned and I am now able to share with you the two newest additions to the SBCC lineup. 

The Sangria Tee

I've been wearing the Sangria Tee all summer long as I played around and modified the fit and now have it in just about every color.

I've had a lot of requests for an easy knit summer dress and this was the perfect opportunity. The Sangria dress is right above the knee length and features pockets! Pockets on a knit dress can be kinda tricky since you don't want them to just hang and droop, then look strange when worn. Instead I have included in the instructions a way to secure them to the front body so they stay in place and add a little bit of topstitching detail to the dress. 

There is the traditional t-shirt length that features a slightly curved shirt tail hem to give it just a bit beyond the standard look. And, as with all views, you can interchange the sleeves. There is the standard sleeve and also a version that allows you to create a cuff. They look kinda similar on the pictures, but when you see it in person, they both give the shirt it's own unique look. 

Finally, I wanted to create a length that is short, but not midriff baring short. Cropped tees are all the rage, but I'm just not too sure about them myself. I wanted something that skims the top of your pants or skirt waistband. Not too short and not too long. This shorter view also has a wide straight hem, to make it seem just a bit more elevated than the cropped tees that you find everywhere. Plus, once you make it, and before you hem, you can see how you feel about the finished length and adjust if needed to make it longer.

The Sangria Tee also has an optional front for a fuller bust which includes a bust dart. For this type of sleeve and armhole, there's just no getting around this for a fit that doesn't leave your armhole gaping and droopy with bra exposed without a dart. 

Fabrications to use: 

The Sangria Tee is designed for knit fabrics. Basically anything that you would  make a t-shirt out of. For the dress version, you can do a heavier weight French Terry or a mid weight ponte knit. I've made a bunch of the cropped tees from Blackbird Fabrics cotton modal Jersey. It's a great weight. 

The Greenpoint Pants and Shorts

The Greenpoint Pants and Shorts were a last minute addition to this late summer collection. The Gina shorts are a fave, but sometimes you just want an elastic waist, and a flowy fit. These have been in rotation for the last couple of months for me and my favorite pair turned out to be the green ones from the photos which hung in my workspace as a tease until I was able to get photos. They are so comfortable that I would have already worn them to death. 

As I mentioned, the Greenpoint shorts are flowy, which also is another descriptor for relaxed, and kinda loose fit. These are a looser in the hips and crotch area. But don't get scared that these will be too big. As long as you are using a drapey fabric, I think it will work out just fine for you. 

Whenever I'm making a new pattern I always try to think of functionality and how to get the most mileage for you based on options I can create. So pants seemed like an obvious solution. However, the loose fit of the shorts didn't translate as well to the pants. It was just too much fullness and to get a good "pant fit" I had to change up the shapes a little. The pants are almost a standalone fit from the shorts so if you review the finished garment measurements and note differences, this is why. Notably, the pants are slimmer through the hips and shorter in the front rise. 

The Greenpoint pants are a straight leg and are set up for a 29" inseam. Super easy to modify to get the right length that you need. 

Fabrications to use: 

The Greenpoint pants and shorts are designed for non-stretch woven fabrics. These would be amazing in a washed linen (haven't had a chance to make that one yet, but next on my list). I do have a few pairs in tencel, shown as in the blue shorts and the pants. If you head on over to the nearest big box fabric store looking for fabric, make sure to hit up the double faced gauze. They have so many options of colors. This is what I used for the olive green shorts and I love it so much! 

 Get your copy of the Greenpoint Pants & Shorts and the Sangria Tee Today!

But really, who wants to be stuck taping pages together? As I go through all the SBCC pattern updates, I am adding a copyshop option to all SBCC patterns. With new releases I get a lot of questions on how copyshop patterns work, what they are, and how to get them printed. So here is your official guide!

What is a copyshop PDF?

A copyshop PDF is a large format document file that is specifically set up to be printed on large format printers. For instance, if you are in the US and you go to a large office supply store, there is a service counter in the store for custom printing. Here they would have the printers needed to print copyshop files.

Copyshop Dimensions and details: 

SBCC copyshop files are set up to work with both A0 and 36" wide printers. The dimensions for printing in the US are 36" X 46". Everywhere else would be 84cm by 119cm.

As per standard PDF printing, always ensure/select "print to scale". Do not "shrink to fit" otherwise this will distort your pattern.

A scale box is included at the top of each page to double check the proportions have been maintained. 

How to get a copyshop version of an SBCC Pattern

You do not need to purchase a copyshop file separately. All available formats come with the singular purchase of your SBCC pattern. The only reason it would not come with a copyshop option is if the pattern has not been updated. However, in each product description, the available formats are listed for your reference.

If you have purchased an SBCC pattern in the past, but was updated to include the copyshop option, a new link would have been sent to you to download, so please check your emails. 

What to do first: 

1) Locate the file that has "copyshop" in its name.

2) Open the file. As with all SBCC PDF patterns you will need a PDF reader program/app. The most commonly used program is Adobe Acrobat Reader Acrobat. This is a free download and is something you probably already have on your computer as it is a frequently used program. If you don't have it, don't hesitate to get it. It takes up little space and will come in handy for other PDFS that come your way.

3) Select your size(s). You will see the pattern laid out on the screen and on the left hand side you will see all the sizes with a little eyeball next to it. Click on the eyeball for all the sizes you do not need to hide the visiblity. Make sure you select the text and grainline option so you have this important information. If you plan on grading between sizes you may need to select a couple of different sizes. 

You cannot ask the printer to select the sizes for you, so this is an important step if you need only specific layers.

4) Save a copy. When all the layers on the screen look like what you need, save a copy of this file to your desktop or file folders to maintain the layers that you need. 

Who Can Print this for me?

Large Office Supply Stores:

If you need instant gratification or next day, I would stick with your local big box office supply store. You can either upload the PDF file to their website or show up with file in hand. Just be sure to mention the dimensions (The dimensions for printing in the US are 36" X 46". Everywhere else would be 84cm by 119cm.)

Independent printers:

There are also lots of independent PDF pattern printers that allow you to upload your file to their website. They will print it and ship it to you.

I'm going to insert a bit of a cheat here and redirect because Helen, at Helens Closet Patterns, has put together a great resource for copyshop printing services worldwide. This is better than anything I could come up with so I wanted to share. Both pricing and output are listed for your easy reference.

Additionally I had a lot of people recommend pdfplotting.com, so it may be worthwhile to check out.

A Quick Side Note about the Big Box Store: Beware of Kyle

Now, if you show up to the store or phone a question in, you could talk to "Kyle". He may tell you that he doesn't think they can print this file and you should refer back to me, while he goes back to scrolling his phone. 

Let me stop you here. SBCC files are set up specifically for a universal copyshop printing. There is nothing unusual about them other than they are a larger format and many, many SBCC customers have had success without assistance. You did not receive a defective file. I would not do that to you.

Kyle can do this. Please push him a little bit or ask if he has a manager that can assist, because I guarantee that they do this unless their printer is broken. Kyle has advised many SBCC customers that he doesn't know how or thinks SBCC files are the problem, but someone at the store knows how to do this.

The reason that Kyle needs to help you is because at this point, I cannot provide support on getting your pattern printed. I just don't work at a copyshop nor am I an expert on what they should do. I have set up the file to work for copyshop printing, but beyond this I don't know what kind of technical set up or issues may have happened in the download process. I hope you understand.

How will I get this to the printer?

Uploads: The easiest way to get your copyshop files to the printer is to upload  the PDF file that you have saved directly to the website of whoever will print your files. Each place is different so it's worth a perusal of the website options.

Most independent companies make the process so smooth that you barely have to think. They know what type of file to expect from you so generally, it's just an option to upload and then some additional details.

However, big box stores can be more complex. You will have to look through their main menu for "printing services" or similar wording and navigate through their options to find what you need. 

Regardless of who is printing, just be sure to check the number of pages in your file before you submit to be sure you are ordering the correct number of pages. 

Walk in the store:

You can take your PDF file, that is in your email, to the store and they will help guide you with the transfer by having you email them the file, or you could bring it on a flash drive.

Just like anything, the first time you get a copyshop file printed it may be a little bumpy because there are nuances to any system and processes, but what you get the hang of it, you'll love the convenience of not having to tape together pages.

The Sunrise Joggers are a quick and fun sewing project, but with their unique styling, sometimes traditional alterations that you would like to do may not seem as straightforward as they should be. 

Below, I will demonstrate two of the common adjustments needed for pants that you may find to be a head-scratcher with the Sunrise Joggers.

Just like with any pattern, I highly encourage you to make a muslin first to establish exactly what kinds of changes that you would need to make. For instance, the Sunrise Joggers have higher rises and will sit higher on the waist and hips than what you may think. If you are not petite, you may not want to even alter them at all. Give it a quick run through and do a test. 

1) Altering the Rise Height

The term "rise" means the vertical front and back center seams and are basically the determining factor of how high or low a pant will fall on your waist. To add or reduce the rise height, here's how it will look: 

2) Grading between sizes for the waist and hip

I generally advise to select your pant size based on the hip first. However, the pockets for the Sunrise Jogger can be tricky to adjust. If your waist size is more than 1 size bigger than your hip size, then I would recommend to choose your size based on the waist you need first. From here, it will be easier to slim the hip down. 

But before we go too far, let me say this: The Sunrise joggers have a decent amount of ease/gathers around the waist. Theoretically if your waist is only one size bigger than the hip, you may not even want to go to the trouble of adjusting. Using the same waist size as your hip would result in a flatter/smoother waistband and waist. For everyone else, here is how I would go down a size at the hip: 

 The object of pattern adjustments between the waist and the hip is to avoid having to modify the yoke and the pockets. Things can easily go wrong, so I would advise to avoid if possible, but if you feel confident in doing so then go for it!

You asked, I delivered!

The number one requested pattern - the Sunrise Joggers. 

I had been on the fence about this one for awhile. Up until recently I had not been a part of "team jogger". Most of the time you'll find me in jeans or the Pegu Pants. But I've got to say the Sunrise Joggers have me converted and I now see what the buzz is about. 

Since we are all close here, before I go on I'd like to address what the delay was and unpack some issues on you- I think we all have our weird clothing quirks, right? You know what I mean- maybe you don't like collars that touch your neck or waistbands that hit at the wrong position, or cuffs on your short sleeves.

For some reason I don't like elastic or anything cinched around my ankles. Weird, right? I think it stems from those onesie pajamas back in the 80's with the horrible vinyl feet and elastic at the ankles, available for children of all ages. Thank goodness my mom heard my complaints and the feet and elastic were always chopped off so I could still be warm, but flashing those toes!

But joggers, they always have the cuff, right? Not anymore. The Sunrise Joggers have an option for the look and proportion of a pair of joggers, but without the cuff. Just a slim leg pant, which is more my speed....but I'm still loving how cool the cuff looks on others that don't have my sort of hang-ups. 

Now that I have seen the power of the jogger pant I can confidently say that the Sunrise Joggers are just the most perfect casual comfortable pant that you can make- plus they have pockets and a really fun yoke detail. 

Fabrics:

The Sunrise Joggers are perfect for knit fabrics. Think bamboo French Terry or your favorite heavy weight knit jersey. Whatever knit fabric you have that will move with you and give you comfort and the coverage you would look for in a pair of pants.

I have not tried these in a woven fabric, but I am intrigued. If anyone is brave enough to give it a go, maybe do a muslin and start with your standard size, but size up at the leg opening and knee. 

Fit: 

I made a TON of samples to get this jogger pant just the way I wanted. I didn't want it tight. There are plenty of fitted joggers out there so I wanted to present another point of view. But I also didn't want them to be baggy. The Sunrise Joggers are fitted at the leg opening and calf, but gradually become looser at the thighs and hips. There is ample room to pull them over your hips and you will have a bit of fullness around the waist from the gathering of the waistband. The front rise should sit at or, pretty close to your belly button level and the back rise allows for ample coverage, especially when you bend over. If you are worried about the rise height, give it a try first. I wear mine so they are kinda slouchy in the front. It's an attitude, not a perfectly molded piece of fabric to your body. 

Choosing your size:

This is important: Stick to your usual SBCC size. When in doubt, always choose based on your hip circumference first. As with any garment, and pants especially, spend the time and make a trial run to see what you think and pivot based on this first. Do not sleep on the Sunrise Joggers and assume they are one thing based on measurements alone. They will surprise you in a good way.

What's up next: 

The sewing of the pockets and yoke can be a bit tricky so I am working hard to pull together a sew along on the blog for the Sunrise Joggers. Also, because there is no side seam at the yoke and pocket, grading between sizes or modifications can be a bit tricky. I'm going to work on getting you the full run down of how to adjust the fit to your specifications. 

Bodice: 

Sleeve

Top Skirt & Peplum

Middle Tiers

Bottom Tiers

The Shirley Shirt is a serious style and one that I admittedly, at first, was like, "Yeah, where am I going to wear that? I like stretchy things."...until the day came and I realized I was a missing a blouse to complete specific looks and all the options out there were for super long torso bodies and everything store bought fit like crud. 

Time to solve that problem!

The Shirley Shirt is your classic fitted button-down blouse...but for petites. Classic collar, cuffs and details. Now don't worry that this blouse is something you will have to squeeze into. Nope! Fitted just means that the silhouette leans towards a slimmer look. There are front and back waist darts to give you subtle shaping at the waist without making you feel pinched. 

Now let me just put this here for you before we go further: I know a lot of people are like- “I don’t wear these type of blouses because they never fit me well”. I mean, c’mon- you know I’ve got you covered ;) Every single sewing project that you will do will more than likely have you making adjustments to personalize the fit. But at least starting from something that it pretty darn good will make it all worthwhile.

As we transition seasons the Shirley Shirt is perfect for looking polished. You can easily style a cardigan or blazer with it for a chic look and the short sleeve view lets you peel off your layers when the temps are warmer. 

If you've made the Harvey Shirt before you may be wondering about the difference between these two blouses. They are subtle, but they both have their own looks. The Harvey is what I call a "boyfriend fit". It's slightly oversized for a boxier fit. The Shirley Shirt is much more feminine and fitted. It is slimmer through the torso and sleeves and slightly shorter in length.

Pocket options

If you are looking for a way to elevate your skills and make you garment look like something you bought off the rack, then definitely give the pintuck pocket option a try. It looks tricky, but it's actually pretty simple to do. Pair it with the pocket flap and some topstitching detail and you've got something that will have people saying "You made that!?".

Now if the pintuck pocket or the flap are not your look, there is just a simple rectangular pocket that you can make that will look just as great. Even pair it with the flap if you want!

Fabrics to Use

The Shirley Shirt is intended for light weight woven fabrics. You could definitely choose a woven fabric that has a little stretch to it. The key here is to select a fabric that is not super heavy or thick.

I would recommend cotton voile, poplin, linen, shirting fabrics, and silk, to name a few. It’s pretty versatile overall. 

For the product photos I used the following: 

Long sleeve light blue- This was a lightweight cotton that had a little bit of stiffness to the handfeel. 

Grey and green long sleeve plaid- a slightly thicker cotton weave with a light brushed effect to the fabric. 

Navy Blue short sleeve- This was a Tencel twill. This turned out to the drapiest look. I’m not mad about it, just something to consider.

Orange long sleeve- This was a brushed cotton flannel from Joanns. I love the color, but I think I’ll wear it more as a shirt jacket because it is more stiff.

Sizing

As per the usual, there are two size ranges catering to specific figures- 00-XL2 and L1-32. Now you may be wondering about the weird sizes XL1, XL2, L1 & L2. These are just intended to bridge the two size ranges and create an overlap if someone is in between size ranges. And yes, you did hear me right, sizing for this style goes up to a 32. 

Because the Shirley Shirt is more fitted I wanted to make sure you got the bust fit right for you. There are 3 different cup options to choose from. For a style like this, I would recommend choosing your size based on your chest circumference first and foremost. From here grading out to the waist and the hip will present far fewer problems for fitting. 

Customization

The beauty of making your own clothing is that you can make it your own. No one will ever have the same item. Some may look at the Shirley Shirt and think it’s just a standard blouse. It is. However, there are so many opportunities to personalize it to your own unique style. 

Mix fabrics so your inner yoke and collarband are different from the main body. Add tonal or contrast topstitching to the seams to make it unique. Even the buttons that you choose make it yours.

However you want to interpret it, the Shirley Shirt offers you unlimited possibilities. Give it a try and you won’t be disappointed. 

The Cosmo Skirt

The Cosmo maxi skirt was the very first SBCC pattern. This skirt has lingered in it's initial form for too long now and has been poorly represented by a flat garment image on the website that doesn't do its flowy form justice. I forgot how cool this skirt was and why I wanted to make a pattern for it. It's a simple knit skirt- only three pieces, that is super comfy to wear with it's foldover yoga style waistband. Now, I know I call it a maxi skirt, but if the waistband is folded over then it's above the ankles. Frankly, this was a design choice as I didn't want the hem to be dragging or to become a tripping hazard. If you want it longer you can always unfold the waistband or add the length at the initial pattern by using the lengthen/shorten lines that are now included. 

The Cosmo Skirt is fitted around the hips and flares out for a trumpet shape at the hem and even a little more at the back. I get it that not everyone wants a tight fit at the hips, but the easy fix is to just size up for the body and use the waistband that matches to your base size. 

The Cosmo Skirt is strictly for knit fabrics. The style and fit relies heavily on the stretch of the knit and the weight of knit fabrics that make its fluid shape. 

The Julep Skirt

Let me just tell you that ever since I took the new product photos for the Julep Skirt I've been wearing it on regular rotation in my wardrobe exactly as shown. I forgot that it's not your typical high/low hem skirt. Nope. The Julep has a slimmer fit, that I feel is more of a modern approach. You feel kinda elegant with the swishy back hem, but because it's a comfy knit skirt you can wear it anywhere. I've been wearing it around the house, to walk the dogs and out shopping. It's hot. I'm not wearing pants. The Julep Skirt makes me feel dressy but comfortable at the same time. 

The Julep skirt has a wide-ish waistband without elastic so you need the stretch of the fabric on your side. Technically you could put an elastic in for extra security, but it's just so comfortable without. It is slightly fitted around the hips but starts to flare out at the mid-thigh level. 

Because of its high low hem and use of knit fabrics, the Julep Skirt would be the perfect style to leave the hem raw. Seriously, I know everyone likes a "finished" looking project, but I think you'll be happy with the look of this. 

If you missed the post about all the pattern updates coming, you can read all about it here. 

If you have already purchased the digital files for the Julep and Cosmo Skirt, the updates have been sent to you. But if you have not purchased your copy yet, be sure to grab one today in their new and improved formatting. They are on sale for 20% for a limited time only!

For some pattern companies, making these updates would be super simple to do. However, years back, I stored all my formatted pattern files on an external hard drive. That should be safe, right? Nope. One day it died and took all my files with it. Now, I have all the original pattern files still, but they exist in only my drafting program which is a super simple and plain file. Nothing what you would expect a sewing pattern to look like. Here's what the Mojito Skirt looks like pre-formatting and post-formatting:

So I have my work cut out for me. I'm slowly going through the SBCC archives to do comprehensive updates that include: 

• Creating an overlapping size range
• Extending all styles to include size 4X
• Adding copy shop and projector print options
• Making layered sizes for PDFs so you can select only the size you need
• Eliminating the flat photos and showing how a garment looks on a body for product pictures. 

If you have already purchased older SBCC patterns please rest assured that the new re-releases still represent the same fit and styling that you initially purchased. Nothing has changed for the style. Those who purchased hard copy patterns should be ok because the changes mostly encompass the digital output. However, if you are needing a size 4X for a style that you purchased, please get in touch once you see that the style in question has been re-released. 

Admittedly, this is a bit of a slow process. I get easily distracted by shiny new patterns and a heavy workload for my primary job, but I appreciate everyone's patience and understanding. I have been lucky to find a little help to get these back in shape for you. If you have previously purchased PDFS that have been updated, you will receive and email alert the moment they are available. 

This is the Mojito Skirt. Sorry, guys, but I've been sitting on this one for awhile. I made it for myself years back and wore it to death...and then forgot about it. But only recently I've rediscovered it as what it truly is- a wardrobe no-brainer. It's a good mix of casual and dressy. You can wear it around the house while you work in the kitchen, paired with your Tonic Tee (or- teaser alert- the next upcoming SBCC pattern release), but you can also wear it out paired with a dressy top and nice shoes and you are good to go. No one at the nice restaurant would even guess that you were covered in kitchen debris last time you wore the skirt. (I dunno, maybe it's just me, but I'm all about clothes being worn and not saved for special occasions). If you are going out to have fun, you don't want your waistbands that remind you that you over indulged. Which brings me to why the Mojito skirt waist is unique....

The Mojito Skirt has an elastic waistband. But it's not what you think. No bunchiness here nor will you find something that looks like a pajama pant waist. Nope. The elastic in the Mojito skirt is totally hidden for a smooth effect. It is hidden between the yoke and the yoke facing. In fact, if you wanted to get really fancy and do tummy control panel for a smoothing effect, you could totally do it with adding power mesh to the yoke. But I digress...

The yoke hits above the fullest part of the hip, so then the rest of the skirt flares out to give you a swishy effect (I know that's a weird statement, but you know what I mean). The Mojito Skirt is intended to hit about knee level. But you can use the lengthen/shorten lines to make it however you want it. Also, because it is made with a knit fabric, technically you don't even need to hem it. I love to leave my knit skirt hems raw. It just makes it flowy. 

How does 3 pieces sound? Pretty easy to work with! And we know what that means- it's quick and easy to sew together. The only bit of trickiness that you could encounter is putting the elastic on the right piece. So I encourage you to check out the sewing directions for this part. It's not hard, but the order of the fabric layers is important to get the flat front look. 

As I've mentioned, the Mojito Skirt is intended for knit fabrics. Anything with at least 35% stretch would be best. I've made it in lightweight and medium weight jerseys. However, I do suspect that you may be able to make the skirt out of woven fabric with a knit yoke. I have not tried it personally, but I know you creative types are already spying the possibilities. (Ooh, a color blocked version would be fun too!) 

Be sure to grab your copy today! For a limited time, the Mojito Skirt is 20% off and is available in sizes XXS-4X with tiled PDF, copyshop and projector print options. 

I run an apparel development business. This means that someone with an idea comes to me to bring it to life in the form of a pattern and sometimes a sample. The end goal is to create a template for mass production.

We are not talking about making someone a dress for Aunt June's wedding. Nope, sample making is about fine tuning processes and patterns to ensure that mass production can happen without any difficulties. For instance, If I have a notch for a zipper endpoint that is off by 1/8" this is a big mistake when you have to adjust on 10,000 garments.  Creating a product from scratch is no easy task- even if you are making a basic t-shirt. There are always variables along the way to be addressed and most of these come up during sampling. 

My business is not so big (just yet but getting there) as to hire a full time sample maker, but I do bring in freelancers when I am swamped. I end up doing a lot myself and I am very hands on even when I have help. 

The Glamorous part

There are only fleeting moments in fashion where it is actually glamourous. I would have to say the most exciting part of samplemaking is working with beautiful fabrics and trim and then seeing it all come together as a finished garment or in a photo from a styled photoshoot. Then there's....wait.....No. That's it. That's the only glamorous part. It's a super tough job, but somebody has got to do it!

How a garment comes to life

I'm going to start at the cutting. Sometimes there is a person who just does the cutting, but these days that's just me so I'm going to include this as part of the sample making process. It's a critical part because no fabric can be wasted. Even if there is a roll of 20 yards at the ready it is my job to ensure I have a pretty darn good excuse if more was used than needed. As we all know, fabric is expensive and sometimes limited so it's imperative to plan ahead.

At this point I am also reviewing the fabric for any defects, and any tendencies that could pose a problem for mass production. I often don't know what I'm looking for until I see it. 

The first sample is made

The first sample made is the trial run. It's the discovery stage.

When we talk about muslins for sewing, you generally think of muslin fabric or something cheap to do a test. For mass production sampling we don't generally do muslins. Instead we are using fabric that will either be the same or really similar to what the final garment will be made in because we are engineering around its variables. There is no point in using muslin to make a garment if the final item is going to be in silk because the look will be completely different.

When I am working on a complex garment with a samplemaker I ask to review the garment at certain stages. I do this to ensure that the look that is needed is there. If the shape isn't just right or a detail is too small/too big, we will take it apart and recut. The challenging part of my job as a patternmaker is to understand every designers point of view and their expectations so that I deliver a garment that matches to their vision.

If it's just me sewing I'll review at each stage on a dressform, building/deconstruction/ building again as I go. To me, a first sample is like a painting. There are layers and no set directions until it looks the way I want it to. It's all about figuring out the best way to put it all together. To be a samplemaker you have to be flexible and be endlessly pursing perfection. Trust me, nothing sucks more than putting a collar on a blazer only to decide that it's not right and it all has to come off. But if it has to be done, it has to be done. One must be ok with pulling apart an entire garment to put in different interfacings if need be or removing rows of topstitching that are not perfectly straight. 

2nd Sample

Rarely do we make one sample and call it done. More often then not a second sample is needed based on feedback from the designer and/or any construction changes improvements needed.  At this stage we are looking for any areas of the pattern that can be improved to aid in sewing. Maybe the angle of a seam endpoint can be adjusted 1/16", or we have to factor in shrinkage that happens during pressing. For me, the 2nd sample is more about the pattern as the way it was sewn should have been established for the first sample. 

Getting Ready for Mass Production

If the second sample is final then it has to be perfect. Correct fabric and correct trims and correct measurements. This will be passed to a factory as a guide to follow. A sample in hand is a visual reference of the standards that must be met. For instance, my skirt may look perfectly crisp and pressed, but the factory may want to skip certain pressing stages. If the designer gets their production sample and sees that it looks like a disaster they will tell the factory to go back and review the sample, because this is what it should look like. There is only so much information you can write down. A sample tells the whole story. 

Samplemaking and Sewing Patterns

My point of view has been from a mass production. However, sewing pattern companies will go through similar steps, and more often make more samples then mass production.

I may engineer a pattern for a specific fabric, but the characteristics of what you choose to use will vary. Sewing pattern companies have to make patterns that work for a variety of fabrics within a certain category. It's a tall order to fill and sometimes additional samples will need to be made in different types of fabrics to ensure the look is consistent.

Becoming a Samplemaker

If this is something you are interested in, you will not be short of work. Good samplemakers are really hard to come by. But you will need top notch sewing skills and the willingness to alter or take apart and re-do if needed. The goal is to present a client with a beautiful garment that few comments can be made on the workmanship. 

I would say that practice makes perfect and the skills come in time. To build up, I would recommend working on small projects with a fabric that you feel comfortable with. Maybe you find someone needing pajama shorts samples. Awesome, that is an easy project. However, I would be hesitant to take on any type of fancy work that is sewing with silk or slippery fabrics. But definitely build up to it!

Faux fur was never at the top of my list, but then the trend of the sherpa fleece came along and I HAD to make a Pina vest out of it. I've been wearing this me made to death! It's a good thing it's off-white because I'm wearing it on all my errands and some of my outdoor activities. It's actually amazing that it made it to become one of my photo samples.

Faux fur is fun and who doesn't want to touch something silky or have a new garment that is fuzzy with wild colors and textures? There are some really nice options out that offer unique textures and alternatives that have a really soft handful that you would expect from fur. I picked up some fancy stuff from Mood Fabrics. It's not super cheap, but if you are making a vest, then you only need to buy one yard. 

Working with the sherpa fleece was a good starter fabric and it was kinda fun to see it all come together. It got me thinking about trying other types of textures to make different variations of the Pina. I've had some winners and some losers along the way. In my process of experimentation I have collected a lot of takeaways that from my experimentation that I think will come in handy for anyone looking to give it a try.

Put aside perfection

Faux fur is easy, but difficult at the same time. This juxtaposition is fascinating to me because to make it work, you don't have to be an expert seamstress. Instead you just have to abandon any perfectionist tendencies and trust the process. The best part is that even if you do a crappy job, the fur hides any mistakes!

Depending on the pile (thickness) of the fabric, it's never going to align perfectly. It's going to be difficult to see your stitches, so don't plan on taking them out unless you are prepared to use a razor blade between the two layers. 

Know what to look for

If you are picking out your fur at a fabric store, make sure to take a look at the cut edge. Does it keep on fraying if you pull on some fibers? There will be some loss, but it shouldn't keep going and going. I bought some from a big box store and it just didn't stop shedding. Even with serging the edges it was dissolving before my eyes and I had to trash for this and because of my next point. 

Wear a mask

At this point we all have them around. The filtered kind are the best because fabric particulates fly around everywhere. These are synthetic fibers made from chemicals. You do not want these in your lungs or your sinuses. They are so lightweight that inhalation is really easy. 

Wear a mask throughout the process, but especially when you are cutting (I would maybe go so far as to recommend a mask for cutting in general, even working with natural fibers). 

There was a period in my career where I was in charge of cleaning out the sample closet at work on a seasonal basis for prolonged amounts of time. We made all sorts of garments from many different fabrics, but most prevalent were synthetics. It was dusty and even though the garments were less than a year old, they started breaking down enough for the particulates to really get to me. I would leave at the end of the day feeling really strange and my voice was hoarse. I now have an allergy to some fabrics that is noticeable when I start cutting. This is nothing serious or life threatening, but now when I cut certain fabrics I feel it. 

Vaccuum frequently

Have a vacuum cleaner on hand and use it liberally while you are cutting to control the spread of the fibers. This dust gets on everything and will take over your home.  Fur will end up on every surface. Depending on your fur, I would even see if you can vacuum the cut edges to make sure no further loss happens that you cannot control. 

Choose your Nap

The nap of the fur is the direction that you want it to go. Usually piled fabric such as fur or velvet has a different texture/look depending on how you swipe your hand up or down. Nap down would be if you ran your hand down and it felt smooth. Nap up gives more resistance but by cutting this way you end up with a more vibrant color. 

I recommend taking your fabric to natural light and positioning it up and then down to see which way you like it better as it hangs. Once you decide, make sure you cut all your pieces in the same direction. Do not place some up or some down as this will look strange once it's all sewn up. Also, to avoid mistakes, I do not cut fabric that is folded. Instead cut each piece individually on a single layer of fabric.

Use the back of the fabric for cutting

The fur can be disorienting if you are trying to find the right cut edge. Instead, place it face down and work on the smooth side of the fabric. 

Use a serger after cutting

If your fabric is shedding like crazy, run all the edges through the serger/overlocker to close off any more potential fur loss before you start sewing. It's an extra step, but at least you don't have to worry about it dissolving as you sew. 

You will need to be creative with some seams

Fur will look bulky at seams. Vertical seams on the body are not so bad, but in areas like the shoulder seam, it will tend to look puffy. 

For my own fur vest, I took a beard trimmer to the shoulder seam area of the back (you can pick these up for around $15). I shaved off as much fur as I could from the back shoulder seam allowance and then laid the front over top and topstitched together. Don't do the usual right sides together. It will be too thick. 

If you are attaching a facing to a tight area, you may need to do the same. 

Have fun with it

This is a great opportunity to test out your skills and make you think outside the box. There are some really interesting machines used by furriers that I think are fascinating, but honestly your standard equipment gets the job done sufficiently. Grab the scissors and give it a haircut as needed. I mean how often are you going to be able to play with a beard trimmer and throw caution to the wind? It's just a piece of fabric, so you can't really give it a bad haircut. Be brave!

This new pattern was inspired by the endless aisles of fleece at our favorite big box fabric stores. You know what I am talking about. The multiple aisles that you have to pass in search of something specific and you wonder just how much more can it go on? 

I admit I was a bit of a fabric snob about fleece. It seemed really generic and the fact that Disney characters can be printed on it didn't really put it high up on my list. But then my Mom made me a fleece blanket and I was hooked. On a cold night watching a movie there is nothing better than a fleece blanket and sipping a hot toddy. By the end of the movie you'll be baking. 

My hands are cold from October until May so warm clothes are a must. This blanket inspired me to make a Brooklyn Hoodie and see if it could keep me warm in my cold workroom. I made it in black with some cool trim detail so I would be proud to wear my fleece out and about. I think I've worn it so much now that the dog hair is permanently embedded, so I'll call it a success and the inspiration for the latest SBCC pattern. 

I wanted to create a style that could elevate your typical fleece with something a bit more fashionable than the standard fare. I present to you the Pina Vest and Jacket. But it's not just for fleece. You could also make it heavier weight sweatshirt materials, quilted knit fabrics, even faux fur. Anything thicker with a little bit of stretch should work nicely. 

The Pina Vest and Jacket are not super heavy duty outerwear. This style is unlined so you can wear it while winter decides if it's done or not, or as a warming topper as you work. I moved to a climate where winter is more mild and am always grabbing my vest for my errands to pop over a long sleeve top.

Let me tell you what I love most about Pina- the pockets! The front peplum has really nice deep pockets that are perfect for stashing your phone, keys and cards for those in and out trips. 

The Pina Vest and Jacket is super versatile and there is definitely going to be a look that fits your style with all of the available combinations. There are three different necklines to choose from: collar, collarless and hood. And you have the option of sleeve or no sleeve. Three different cup options are also included so you should be able to find the right fit for your bust. 

Currently, the Pina is only available in Petite. I mulled this one over hard, but there would be just too many files to choose from and I didn't want to do that to your brains. But if you are average height, I would recommend just adding a 1/2" to the bodice length and a half inch to the peplum height and you should be good to go. If I get enough interest I may make up an average height file for sale. 

I have set up the pattern to have a definite separation for jacket pieces and vest pieces. I wanted to make this easy with only one file to choose from, but then I totally screwed up my own sample. Yes, it was a bit of a meltdown moment. I mistakenly cut the vest bodice for a sleeve sample. I should have known better and double checked myself. Nope. I went and sewed a whole perfect jacket. I even photographed it. But looking at the photographs I was like, huh, something is weird.... why does it look so strange? Face palm! Don't be me. I have set up the file so you really have to be deliberate in your choice and you'll get the pieces you need. 

Sidenote- if you have tiny shoulders, you may want to try the vest option for your jacket sleeve.

Thanks for sticking in with all of my personal ancedotes. I hope you love the Pina Vest and Jacket as much as I do! Grab your own copy today. It is 15% off until March 6th 2021. 

Let's do it!

The feedback from the Pisco Tank and Dress was amazing. All of you loved the customization that it offered, but the number one question I kept getting was, "Can I add sleeves?"  Well, umm, not exactly... it wasn't really engineered for this but I knew I needed to come up with something. That something is now the Nora Tee, a new style for the SBCC lineup that ticks a lot of boxes to make her your go-to tee. 

Customizations

The Nora tee is totally customizable. I'm not even exaggerating. You can choose from the following: 

• Petite or average height bodices that match to lower torsos that offer the same combinations.  (same as the Pisco)
• 3 different sleeve lengths- short, 3/4 & long sleeves
• 2 different necklines- boat neck and V-neck
• B, C, D cup sizes so you have lots of chest options to match to what will fit you best. 
• Even your printing preference is now more versatile as a projector option has now been added to the lineup of tiled PDF's and A0 Copyshop. 

Sizes

As with all SBCC patterns, the Nora Tee comes in sizes XXS-4X as two separate size ranges. Each range is fit separately because fit is important and I don't want anyone at either end of the size range scratching their heads trying to sort out the weird fit issues. The important part is that you have a project ready to sew with few modifications, because it is designed for your body. 

A t-shirt for larger chests

The Nora Tee is what I would like to call an "elevated tee". Nora has front and back offset princess seams and omits the side seams. This is not only a design detail, but for those that have always struggled to find a t-shirt that fits a larger chest without the gaping at the armhole, this one is for you! With the seaming detail on the Nora Top, it's much easier to manage any fullness or pulling at the chest. 

What type of fabric works best? 

A knit fabric with at least 35% stretch is preferable. I made all the samples you see in a wide range of knits. To be honest with you, each one had a slightly different look to the end result so here's my full unfiltered report: 

• 3/4 sleeve boat neck made in grey cotton jersey. This weight was somewhere between a t-shirt and a sweatshirt. The fit is comfy, but the overall length appeared shorter because the dense knit did not have a lot of lengthwise stretch. 
• Long sleeve dusty rose (pictured below)- this was a rayon cotton blend waffle knit. It is super stretchy, like 70% so that's why it looks a little looser. I also made the mistake of hanging the sample overnight so the body got longer. Just keep this sort of thing in mind if you choose to work with a looser knit. 
• Red long sleeve boat neck was made from a lightweight rayon spandex. It's also close to 70% stretch and very slinky. 
• Short sleeve grey V-neck tee was made from 100% cotton slub knit. This was probably the most favorite of all the fabrics. 

As we all know, I love knits. There is so much variety and so many options for different looks. The best part of knits is how comfortable the fit is. And with the Nora pattern designed for comfort and style, it's going to be a staple in your wardrobe. 

More to come

If you are feeling a little uncertain about sewing a V-neckline, stay tuned for a quick how-to blog post where I walk you through the steps. 

The Brooklyn Hoodie and the Cabernet Cardigan are looking new and polished! These were way overdue for updates to make them even better and more user friendly. 

Updates Include: 

• Copyshop format (Formatted for both AO and US copy shop)
• Layered sizes, so you can print only the sizes you need
• Overlapping size ranges. No more worries if you are between ranges. 

If you have already purchased either of these patterns as a PDF file, the updates have been automatically resent to you. If you have been waiting to make these, now is the perfect time to add them to your sewing queue. Get your copies today!