Screaming Mimi's Sewing Room

Tank Top Remake

2013-03-05T14:55:00.002-08:00

This light-weight vest, or cover-up was fashioned from a flared bottom tank top that was once attached to a blouse. The shoulder seams had to be cut in order to remove it, and I was afraid that creating new shoulder seams would leave the arm holes too small. So in order to work around that, I created a couple of tabs using a similar weight knit fabric from an old dress.

This is one of those things you just have to figure out as you go along...there's not tutorial, or even hard and fast rules for creating it. So, the best I can do here is tell you how I went about it. I did all the stitching by hand, but there's no reason you couldn't use your machine for this. I chose to do hand stitching because the tank was made from a very delicate knit, and because I didn't really know where I was going with this, I didn't want to have to rip out machine stitching.

Before cutting up the center of the tank, I fused a piece of medium-weight interfacing down the length of the tank to create a little stability, and prevent the knit fabric from rolling. I then folded and pressed (twice) before hand stitching.

The top tab is a rectangle that I folded under on each of the long sides, and then at one short end to create a point. I also made smaller rectangle tabs for the underside so that no raw edges are showing. I gathered the tank straps a little bit so they would fit the tabs. I began sewing the tabs by placing right sides together at the straight end of the tab, and the back strap of the tank, and stitched the tab to the tank. I then folded it over, sewed the tab to the front strap just above the v-point. Finally, I placed the smaller rectangular tabs underneath, attached the short ends to the tank, and used a slip stitch to sew the top and bottom tabs together at the sides. The white stitching was done last, and is just decorative.

Before cutting the tabs, and leaves, I fused a medium weight interfacing to the knit. The visible stitching was done with a heavy-weight thread so that it would stand out.

Market Tote Pattern

2013-02-26T21:36:00.000-08:00

The grocery, and drug stores in the county can no longer provide plastic bags for customers. Now while that's a good thing, I do find it mildly irritating that they must charge ten cents for each paper bag provided to the customer. So even though I have (and use) several large canvas bags for grocery shopping, I was still finding myself without a bag when I stopped at the store unexpectedly. To make sure that I always had a bag when needed, I made a few more of my Market Totes to keep in my purse. Two of them fit nicely in a little zippered pouch, but I also found that that I could use the left over U shaped scrap to make a small, open ended pouch for the bag.

This is a very simple bag to make, and it requires only 1/2 yard of fabric. You can find this pattern and more in my pattern store at Craftsy, and in my Etsy Store (Sew Mimi Designs).

Guitar Strap Sewing Tutorial

2013-02-18T01:37:00.000-08:00

Since posting the pictures of the guitar straps I made recently, I've received several requests for a tutorial. After giving it some thought...well, why not? So I've created detailed instructions, with photographs, and templates for cutting the vinyl tabs. The PDF tutorial is available for download at my Craftsy Pattern Store and my Etsy Store for just $4.99.

If you'd like to purchase pre-made tabs, and the plastic hardware that's needed for this project, I've got you covered...the DIY Kit is available in my Etsy Store.

Guitar Straps

2013-02-09T14:56:00.000-08:00

I was looking around the internet last week...searching for something different to make. I came across a handmade guitar strap and said "why didn't I think of that?" My husband is a musician, and it occurred to me that the female musicians get a little short-changed when it comes to finding accessories -- so much masculine stuff, and not much girly stuff.

So I set about figuring out how to make these. I use cotton fabric, and heavy interfacing (actually, I'm using up a giant roll of heavy cut-away embroidery stabilizer from my stash.) For the tabs, I'm using upholstery vinyl. The hard part was finding the 2" plastic slider, and rectangle loop. I would have thought that any fabric store, or purse making supply site would carry them, but it seems that 1" is the largest available at the retail level for the most part. I ended up sourcing a large quantity from a wholesaler.

Now I could have purchased a cheap guitar strap, and used the plastic fittings, and leather tabs, but that created a couple of other issues for me since I plan to sell these. For one, that would increase my production cost, and secondly, most of the straps have the makers name imprinted on the tab -- I don't want anybody's name but my own on my work! So here they are...some of my hand-made guitar straps...up for sale in my Etsy Store (Sew Mimi Designs).

Serger Tips for Beginners

2013-01-25T14:18:00.000-08:00

It's been about a year since I purchased my first serger, and I've learned quite a bit through trial and error. The most important thing I learned is that threading it is not nearly as complicated as some folks led me to believe. And no, I don't have the "self threading" type. I have an American Home AH-100 -- it's a 4 thread, 2 needle, fairly small machine. It's also the twin to the Babylock Lauren which retails for about $100 more than the American Home AH-100.

If you're thinking of getting a relatively low priced machine there are several options available. But be sure to compare carefully because not all like priced machines are equipped with like features. At the end of this article I will offer some suggestions for those who are shopping.

Note: I get questions from beginners such as "can I make a complete garment on a serger?" Yes you can, but there are limits -- it depends on the style, and type of garment or accessory. I've also been asked "should I buy a serger or a sewing machine?" A serger does not replace a sewing machine -- if you have neither, and you want to begin sewing then what you need is a sewing machine. If you don't know how to sew, you're aren't going to easily grasp the concept of the serger, so learn to sew first. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Start at the Beginning:
When you bring that new serger home start by using the owners manual to identify the various parts, and features. Don't expect yourself to memorize each one, or immediately understand how the adjustments effect the stitches. Just get familiar for now -- and keep the owners manual handy when you start using the machine. If the machine came with an instructional video, watch it -- it will be much easier to understand the written instructions once you've seen someone else perform the task.

Thread the Machine Yourself:
Most instructional videos, and manuals provide instructions on using the pull-thourgh method of threading so that you can change thread without completely re-threading the machine. That's a great method, but it's not a substitute for learning how to thread the machine yourself. Most of the new models that are not "self threading" are color coded, and feature an illustrated threading guide inside the cover, or "door" of the machine, so you won't need to get the manual out each time you thread the machine.

Your machine probably came with a pair of long handled tweezers -- use them for threading. Don't be afraid to turn the hand wheel while you're threading -- sometimes you need to move the loopers in order to make threading easier. And if you're an old broad like me, keep a magnifying glass handy. The first few times you thread the machine it will seem complicated, but with just a little bit of practice you'll become more confident.

Try it Out:
The best way to learn is to just do it. Grab some scrap fabric, and just go through the owners manual, trying out each function. For some things, such as rolled hemming, you'll likely need to change the throad plate, and remove one needle. Doing it will take the mystery out of it, and you'll see that it's not very difficult at all.

Learn how to Trouble Shoot:
This takes a little more time, and patience, so try not to get frustrated when things aren't going right. Just as you have learned to do with your sewing machine, you'll soon learn where to look when things aren't going well with your serger -- and most of the time it's pretty simple.

When you're threading the machine, always work from right to left. Start with the lower looper, then the upper looper, then the right needle, then the left needle.

If you're using just one needle, or one needle and one looper (two thread serging) completely remove the thread for the unused needle and looper -- don't even leave it hanging in the thread hanger. Some machines include a subsidiary looper for two thread serging -- this closes off, and dis-engages the upper looper.

Here are some of the problems I have encountered while learning how to use my serger.

Thread Breaks: I was recently having trouble with my serger thread breaking frequently. Turns out, the problem was that I did not have the extension bar of the thread hanger pulled all the way up -- that was causing the thread to get caught up.

Thread Looping on the Edge of the Fabric: I simply had the stitch width set too wide for the fabric I was using.

Seams Were Puckering: Once I adjusted the differential feed, I was able to sew a smooth, straight seam.

Fabric Not Moving Smoothly, or Slipping: There is a pressure foot adjustment on the top of my machine. I keep forgetting about that until I start sewing, and my thin fabric is slipping around. Another reason to always do a test piece first.

Rolled Hem Not Turning Enough: I was sewing too close to the edge of the fabric -- there needs to be enough edge for the machine to grab, and roll the fabric edge.

No Change When Adjusting the Tension: This was the moment when I nearly slapped myself. I was sewing with just one needle (the right needle), and I kept adjusting the left needle tension...DUH! That taught me to adjust from right to left, instead of left to right -- start with the lower looper, then go to the upper looper, then the right needle, then the left needle.

Difficulty Moving the Blade: When we're in the throes of a problem, sometimes the simplest things escape us. When moving the blade to engage or dis-engage it, use the hand wheel to place the needle in the down position.
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If you're shopping for a serger, here are some suggestions for entry level models. Most of the major sewing machine manufacturers produce a full line of sergers. Whatever brand you choose, I recommend you go with a known name such as Tacony (American Home, Babylock, Brother), Janome, or Singer. Of course there are additional well known names -- I suggest these simply because it is easier to find information, and obtain servicing in most areas. If you want to see the machines in person, you'll need to go to your local dealer, or stop by that major chain fabric store to try them out first.

American Home AH-100 Serger: I have this one, and it's a great little machine. It retails for around $249, and is not sold in stores -- this is an on-line only item. I've seen it for as low as $230 on Amazon (be sure to look to check to see if the vendor you're choosing offers free shipping). This is the twin to the Babylock Lauren serger which retails for around $350, and is sold only through dealers, so if you have a Babylock dealer in your area you can go in and look at the Lauren to see what the American Home serger is all about.

It features 4/3/2 thread serging. The two thread option allows for flat lock stitching. Included is a blind hem foot, and an elastic foot, and a rolled hem needle plate.

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Brother 1034D: Although very similar in features and the American Home serger (and priced slightly lower as well), this machine does not do 2 thread serging for flat lock stitching. This machine uses 3 threads for flat lock stitching. Flat lock stitching can be used for decorative purposes, and is also very useful for seaming faux furs, and other heavily textured fabrics. This machine comes with a blind hem foot, and a gathering foot (which is curious to me because with the American Home serger, no special foot is needed for gathering -- it is accomplished by setting the differential feed.) It also uses regular sewing machine needles (serger needles are typically slightly longer that sewing machine needles.) This machine is available on-line, and in retail stores including discount department stores.
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Singer Stylist II: Singer does have a lower priced model than this machine, but I'm just not the least bit impressed with it -- even for the price. The Stylist II does 4/3/2 thread serging, and is fairly comparable feature wise with other sergers in its class. It includes only one foot, and does not come with a DVD instructional video. This machine would not be my first, or even second choice, but if you're a fan of Singer, check this one out. This machine is available on-line, or at discount department stores.

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Janome 8002D: This little 3/4 thread serger has similar features to the American Home, and Brother sergers but does not appear to include any extra feet. It appears that a throat plate change is necessary for doing a rolled hem. It also does not include an instructional video. I mention this one only because people who use Janome sewing machines are generally avid lovers of the brand, but for the price, I'm not terribly impressed.

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Sewing Machines For Beginners

2013-01-16T13:48:00.001-08:00

If you're a beginner, or would be sewer shopping for a sewing machine then you already know that there are hundreds of machine choices out there. So how does the beginner choose? First, arm yourself with information -- read my post Purchasing Your First Sewing Machine. If you're taking an on-line course, or self teaching, my book, Screaming Mimi's Get Started Sewing, Part 1 - The Absolute Basics is a great resource (if I do say so myself).

OK...so let's get started looking at machines. I'll be adding to this list as I gather more information on various machines, but meanwhile here are 4 options that in my opinion are good choices for beginners. Click on the machine name for more infomation. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Brother SE 400: At just a little over $300, this entry level sewing/embroidery combo offers great sewing features, and an opportunity to move on to embroidery when the mood strikes. The sewing side features 67 built in stitches, and the embroidery side includes 70 built in decorative designs, 120 built in frame patterns, and 5 built in fonts for lettering.

This machine has come a long way since I first purchased mine. The older models used a cassette threading system, while this one conveniently has the thread spool on top. The newer model also has a USB port for loading purchased embroidery designs directly from your computer.

Brother ES 2000: With it's nice selection of decorative, heirloom, and quilting stitches; and a 1-Step button hole feature, the price of around $120 makes this machine a great value. The machine features 77 stitches in total, including the utility stitches (for garment construction.)

This machine is a good choice if you will be sewing garments, however the lack of a presser foot adjustment might make it unsuitable for heavier fabrics such as denim, and home decorator fabrics.

Janome DC 1050: With a price of $300, and the reputation of Janome, this machine is an excellent choice for the beginner. I had the opportunity to "test drive" this machine, and found it a pleasure to use.

It does not appear that there is a presser foot adjustment on this machine, but the DC motor keeps the machine speed even when sewing thicker fabrics.

I like the speed control function -- sometimes I need to go a little slower, and having the control slide helps me keep a steady speed. Many of these computerized machines tout the ability to sew without the foot pedal (they have a start/stop button as well as a foot pedal), but that's not a feature I use -- I like to keep both hands free to guide my fabric, and use the foot pedal to control the start/stop action. The only con I see to this machine is it's light weight. Unless you'll be carrying the machine to classes, or club sessions on a regular basis, light-wieght is not preferable in my opinion.

Singer Talent: If you prefer a mechanical machine, have a look at the Singer Talent. While there are only 23 stitches on this machine, the selection is more than adequate.

With features such as a drop in bobbin, one step button hole, and variable needle position, the price of around $120 is really quite remarkable, especially since the machine also includes a walking foot, darning foot, gathering foot, and side cutter foot. Again, I own an earlier model of this machine which I use for teaching. This newer model has a lower price, and more accessories.

Babylock: Whether you want a mechanical, or computerized machine, Babylock is always a fine choice. These are never sold on-line. I own a higher end Babylock Ellure sewing/embroidery combo, and I could not be happier with it. Check the Babylock website to find a dealer near you.

Learn to Sew

2012-12-27T10:49:00.000-08:00

It's the time of year when my teaching calendar starts filling up quickly. So many people receiving a sewing machine for Christmas...many of them need to learn how to use the machine, and how to sew. And I have to say that these students, the beginners who have never touched a sewing machine, are my favorites.

Whether you're looking for sewing lessons, or looking for resources to self teach, there are options out there for you. Of course, if you live in the San Francisco East Bay Area, you should call me. If you don't live in the area, you can start by searching for local sewing shops -- fabric stores, sewing machine shops, and sewing studios, that offer lessons. Check Craigslist for independent sewing instructors. Click on "Read more" to continue.

I'm going to digress for a moment here, and finally just come out and say it...I cannot recommend the classes at Joann. I actually taught several classes in their Dublin, CA store when they first opened. In that store they contracted several talented independent instructors for their various classes, and quickly lost them because the of company's poor record for paying the instructors all the money owed them in a timely manner.

I (and the knitting, and scrap booking teachers) flew under the radar so to speak -- teaching our own curriculum instead of using the Joann lesson plan. The company's lesson plans were designed to sell product. Most of the time that meant that the materials list for the class had the student buying things she didn't need. The projects were impossible to complete within the class time-frame, and left no time for individual attention.

I've noticed that the stores in my area are now using store employees to teach most of the classes, and that the classroom is empty most of the time. I find this rather amusing since I've yet to find a Joann employee who really knows how to sew -- mostly I hear them giving bad advice to customers. So...even if you purchase a class on sale at 1/2 off, whatever you're paying is too much.

On my last trip to Joann, I swore off ever going there again. I was waiting at the cutting counter, and in spite of the fact that I was the only person waiting for service, they would not help me until I took a number. The whole incident was so ridiculous that I thought I had somehow stepped into a Christopher Guest movie.

OK...back to the sewing lessons. If you'd like to "self teach", or supplement classes or lessons, Craftsy.com offers several on-line classes that will get you started. Once you purchase a class you can view it any time you want, as many times as you want, so you really can go at your own pace.

Their Online Sewing Machine 911 Class gives a great overview of the sewing machine. You'll learn how to use the machine, and how to trouble shoot problems. It's a great place to start even if you have used a machine before. And oh yes...this one is FREE!

Once you've learned to use the machine, their Sewing Studio course will teach you techniques as you learn about following a pattern, stitching, pinning, finishing, and more.

Whether you're interested in quilting, sewing kids clothes, making your own garments and accessories, there are plenty of classes available to keep you moving along in whatever direction you choose, at your own pace. Try out a few of their FREE classes while you're at it. There are 2 different Bag Making Basics classes -- one demonstrates making a tote bag, and a zippered pouch, while the other instructs on how to make a bucket bag, and a drawstring bag.

If you've just purchased a serger (or you're thinking of getting one), their Beginner Serging class will give you the confidence you need to get started.

I created a companion book for my Get Started Sewing course. My thinking was that if the student didn't need to take notes, they could focus better on the learning. Because my students gave rave reviews to this course companion, I now offer that book for sale for those who cannot take my class. It's a great addition to any beginner sewing course, as well as a great resource for those who are self teaching.

{FREE} Clothespin Apron Pattern

2012-12-09T13:25:00.001-08:00

If you like aprons, you're going to love the patterns created by The Seasoned Homemaker. The designer has several patterns available through Craftsy, and is even offering a free pattern, and tutorial on her site for the Clothespin Apron.

Click on the link below to go to the Seasoned Homemaker site, or go to Craftsy to Shop Indie Patterns

The Seasoned Homemaker: {FREE} Clothespin Apron Pattern: I've been thinking...which can be dangerous...but not this time. There may be one or two of you who are pondering the thought of p...

Sewing Fleece

2012-11-25T10:35:00.000-08:00

There are 2 very different schools of thought on beginners sewing with fleece -- the first group says that it's hard, and beginners shouldn't attempt it -- the second one (the group I stand with) says it's easy, and a great option for beginners.

While it can have its challenges, the nature of the fabric can make for quick construction of easy items, largely because there is no fraying or raveling of the cut edges. You can make one quick turn for hems, and casings, you can often omit facings, and raw edges can be cut with decorative rolling cutter blades to avoid hemming altogether.

There are a few little tricks to make working with fleece easy. So, if you're ready to start making all those cute little scarves, blankets, hats, pants, or whatever, here are some tips to help make the job easier. Click on "Read more" to continue...

Start with the right needle and thread: Use a size 90/14 Universal needle, and a good all purpose sewing thread. See my Sewing Machine Needle Primer and my Sewing Thread Primer for more information.

Use the correct presser foot: This is one of those "do as I say, not as I do things" as you'll see. Use your general purpose zig-zag foot -- if you have one that looks something this with a little spring on the side, that's your best choice.

Some recommend using a walking foot for fleece, but I think that's more of a pain than it's worth. If you don't have a foot that looks like this one, just use your general purpose foot.

Set your machine up properly: I generally sew with my stitch length set at 3.0, but for fleece I go up to 3.5 -- so just set your stitch length at about .5 longer than you would for normal sewing. If your machine has a fabric thickness setting (a dial that increases the distance between the presser foot and the feed dogs), set the machine for a thick fabric.

Starting the seam: Beginning at the very edge of the fleece fabric is a little tricky because the fabric has a tendency to get caught in the needle hole of the machine's throat plate. Place a piece of embroiderer's "topping", or a piece of tissue paper underneath the beginning edge of the fabric. I like to use solvy topping for this because it tears off easily, and any excess that remains in the stitching can be easily removed with a damp cloth.

Top-stitch to keep seam allowances flat: When pressing seams flat on fleece, you need to use a pressing cloth, and a good deal of steam. That can sometimes flatten the fleece more than desired, so I prefer to press, and steam as little as possible. Top-stitching the seam allowances down keeps them in place forever. Lengthen the stitch to 4.0, and use a quilters "stitch in the ditch" foot to sew a nice straight line down each side of the seam.

Matching seams at intersections can be a little more challenging when working with fleece. Once you have your seams matched, sew from the seam down, and then go back and complete the rest of the seam. This way, the fabric won't have an opportunity to shift before you get to the seam intersection

Keep your fabric from shifting as you sew: As the fabric passes through the sewing machine, it is advances by the motion of the feed dogs. When working with thick fabrics, the feed dogs advance the bottom layer of fabric at a faster pace than the top layer -- that's where the walking foot helps because it has feed dog on the foot, so 2 sets of feed dogs (top and bottom) are now advancing both layers of fabric at the same pace. Since I'm not using a walking foot, I compensate by holding my fabric in place as I sew. Match the bottom edges of the fabric when you place it in the machine. Lightly fold it, and keep it raised as you advance it through the machine. Sew slow, and adjust as you go to make sure your ends remain even.

And finally, because fleece creates so much lint as you sew, be sure to open up the bobbin case and brush out the dust and lint frequently.

Sew a Simple Gift

2012-10-15T10:19:00.000-07:00

Some of my fellow designers over at Craftsy.com have recently posted some new patterns. These designs are perfect for gift giving, and since many of us are starting to think about making Christmas presents, I thought I'd share these ideas with you. Click on "Read more" to continue.

I love this little iPad or Tablet Stand from Gaila Designs.

She has several patterns for cases for electronic devices...check them out.

Amy DeCesare of eamylove designed this pattern for a Mug Rug. It's constructed like a mini quilt, so it's not just a great gift, but a great place to get your feet wet if you're thinking about learning quilting techniques.

No matter how you choose to decorate this Journal Cover, you're going to end up with one cool gift. For this version, Country Garden Stitchery used crayons to create accents for her hand embroidered design. There are so many options for decorating...machine embroidery, applique, monogram...just do that thing you do!

How To Make Ribbon Flowers

2012-10-06T14:35:00.000-07:00

I just love these little ribbon flowers not just for their look, but because they're so versatile. You could sew them directly onto a bag, or scarf...you can add a pin to the back to use one as a brooch...

I even stitched a binder clip on the back of one, and used it as a gift bag closure.

They're fairly quick, and easy to make, and since all the stitching is done by hand I can make them while I'm watching TV, or take my materials along with me to keep busy while in a waiting room, or just about anywhere. Click on "Read more" to view the tutorial...

For the purposes of the tutorial, I cut a piece of ribbon about 12" long to make a small flower. Generally, I work with the ribbon right off the roll (or a 2 or 3 yard piece), and cut the ribbon off when I'm ready to start turning the flower.

I've found that grosgrain, and sheer ribbons work the best -- satin ribbon is a little more challenging because of its slippery nature. You can use any width of ribbon you like, but I would suggest you use a ribbon that is at least 5/8" wide.

Here we go...have fun.

Reversible Hat Pattern

2012-09-17T12:08:00.000-07:00

Several years ago I purchased a black & gray cap that quickly became my favorite hat. Last year when I made a fleece coat for myself, I used some of the left over green fleece, and some brown velveteen from my stash to recreate my favorite hat.

I've received so many compliments on both hats that I decided I needed another. So why not make a pattern while I'm at it? And why not make that pattern available for the rest of you who love hats too?

I used 1/4 yard of camel colored fleece, and 1/3 yard of brown velveteen for the hat you see pictured. The velveteen can be a little bit challenging, so if you're looking for easy then I suggest using fleece for both sides as I did with these...

To purchase this pattern click on the tab above labaled "Patterns".

Pattern for Fingerless Gloves

2012-09-13T21:21:00.000-07:00

After making a pair of fingerless gloves from a pair of over-the-knee stockings, I was inspired to make a pattern so that I could use a variety of fabrics. I wanted a lighter weight fingerless glove for the Fall, and Spring months, so I thought it would be interesting, eco-friendly, and fun to make a pair of from a t-shirt. I also made the gloves out of some fleece -- it's always great for the Winter months, and it so easy to sew!

This pattern is so easy, you can make a pair of gloves to match every coat, and sweater in your closet! They make great gifts as well, and embroiderers will enjoy personalizing, and decorating after cutting, but before assembling the gloves.

To purchase the pattern, click on the tab above labeled "Patterns"

Get Started Sewing Book Now Available

2012-09-08T18:00:00.001-07:00

As a companion piece to my Screaming Mimi's Get Started Sewing course, I created this book so that my students could focus on learning, rather than taking notes. The book is now available in paperback here.

Although is was designed to accompany the "in-person" course, it is a valuable learning tool for anyone who is just learning to sew.

Halloween Already?

2012-09-05T14:33:00.000-07:00

Is it really time to start thinking about Halloween costumes already? Oh yes...especially if you're going to make your own, or have one custom made. While it may not take long to make the costume, sourcing the materials is not always as easy as making one trip to your local fabric store. Plus, there are other things to think about such as wigs, make-up, shoes, and accessories.

If you're a newbie to sewing, you may find yourself working with specialty fabrics that you've not used before, so you'll need time to do a little research on "how-to". Do yourself a favor, make sure the project is within the scope of your current skill level by doing that research before you purchase the pattern, and fabric. Open up that pattern envelope, and have a look at the instructions before you buy it so you don't have any unpleasant surprises half-way through construction.

If you're making costumes for kids, consider the size carefully. Is the child going to need to wear something underneath for warmth? If so, you may need to make the costume a little bit larger. You also want to consider safety issues as well, not the least of which is if you're using a dark fabric, you may want to add some reflective tape or elements.

Of course, thrift stores, and garage sales are a great place to look for accessories, and even elements of the costume itself. Is that dress the perfect fabric for the vest, or skirt you have in mind? You may even get lucky and find something close enough that a little tweak here and there will get you just what you were looking for with just a little bit of sewing.

And don't forget to check the dollar stores -- you'd be surprised what you can find there. Along with all the other little goodies too numerous to mention, I've found t-shirts, curtain panels, and pillow cases -- a king sized pillow case is a good amount of fabric once it's cut open.

So get that thinking cap on, and start planning your Halloween costumes now.

Kitchen Set Pattern Available Now

2012-08-30T19:37:00.000-07:00

I've created a tutorial style pattern for this darling little kitchen set. There are 4 patterns in this PDF set - a pot holder, a casserole gripper, and 2 different styles of hanging towels. You can make the whole set with just 2 fat quarters!

The tutorial style instructions include special tips for beginners, making this a great first project. I've even included a tutorial on how to make a buttonhole on the sewing machine. To purchase the pattern, click on the tab above labeled "Patterns."

Ironing Station for a Small Space

2012-08-20T09:57:00.000-07:00

Living in a small space can be an organizational challenge, but when you work in that space as well it becomes even more difficult to keep things neat and orderly. I really dislike having my full sized ironing board sitting in the middle of my living room while I'm working on sewing projects. For several years now, I have had a small ironing station on my wish list. I've seen several variations at the retail level, but they were either not the right set up for me, or just too expensive for my budget. So I created my own ironing station -- the board is attached to the dresser, and swings out when I need it.

I live in an old house that still retains most of the character of a mid-century home, including a little cabinet in the kitchen that contains an old drop down ironing board. Now you would think that would have solved my problem but...small kitchen...little counter space...needed the floor space in front for a microwave cabinet. Still, I kept thinking that I could use that ironing board somehow. So I finally got around to removing the board from the cabinet.

I removed just the board itself, and left the metal mechanism in the cabinet. The board was attached to the metal with just one bolt, and a wing nut. Lucky me! I drilled a hole in the top of the old dresser I use for sewing supplies, and attached the board with the bolt, and the wing nut. I wanted a good portion of the board to sit on the dresser while it was turned out, so I made the hole just behind the 1X2 that runs down the inside center of the dresser. I then just attached it with the same wing nut.

I wanted a little bit of padding on the surface, but not too much. My daughter makes quilts, so she went through her stash and found some scraps of batting for me to use. For the first layer, I used a polyester batting (the kind that looks like fiber fill); the second layer is a cotton batting. I used my staple gun to attach each layer at the sides.

I added a top layer of thin, smooth fabric. Actually, this fabric came from a king size pillow case that's been hiding in my linen closet forever. I cut up the sides so that I had one long layer of fabric, layed it across the board, and used my disappearing ink pen to draw out the shape before cutting. I quickly serged the edges, and then stapled it to the ironing board along the sides.

Because the board sits flush against the dresser top when not in use, I didn't want any bulk underneath the board -- hence the reason I stapled everything to the sides. I can now find a cute fabric, and make a cover with elastic edges that will just slip right on. Perhaps I'll even make a dresser scarf as well to cover the board when not in use.

Here's the part I love. The dresser was something my neighbor gave me, the ironing board came out of my kitchen, the batting came from my daughter's stash, and the cover came from an old pillow case in my linen closet. The only investment I've made in this whole thing so far was the wrapping paper, and Modge Podge I used to decorate the dresser.

If you don't have a board you can use for this project, or the tools to cut the board, take a trip to the lumber yard. More often than not, the staff at the lumber yard will cut the wood for you. If you don't have a drill to make the holes for the bolt attachment, check to see if your community has a tool library where you can borrow one.

Working With Embroidery Design Files

2012-08-14T13:20:00.000-07:00

Navigating the road from downloading an embroidery design, to sewing it out can be confusing for the new embroidery machine owner. Once you are familiar with the steps, and the terminology though, you'll find it to be quite simple. Although I've covered this subject in various articles, I think it would be helpful for the newbie to be able to find the answers in one place so...this is an FAQ on working with embroidery designs. Click "Read More" to continue...

I want to download some designs. What file format should I choose?
It's going to depend entirely on your machine. Check your machine manual to determine what type of file you need. For example, a Brother or Baby Lock machines use the PES format, Janome uses JEF, Bernina uses ART, Singer uses XXX, Viking uses HUS.

What if the design isn't available in the format my machine uses?
If you have editing or digitizing software, you will probably be able to convert the design to the format you need by opening the design, and then exporting it to the format you need. If you do not have editing or digitizing software, you can purchase conversion software, or you can go to EmbroideryDesigns.com and use their free conversion service.

Why can't I open my embroidery designs on my computer?
You need to have either digitizing, editing, or embroidery file viewing software to open the design on your computer.

I downloaded a design in the right format but I can't open it in my embroidery machine. Why?
This usually happens because the design is larger than your machine's maximum embroidery field. Many machines with a maximum embroidery field of 4" X 4" come with additional hoops that are larger than the max field. This large hoop does not make the field larger, it is usually meant for re-positioning in order to split designs, or sew out 2 designs without re-hooping.

If the design is not significantly larger than your maximum field, you can re-size the design with editing, digitizing, or re-sizing software. Be sure to use a program that will adjust the stitch count.

What is the stitch count, and why do I need to adjust it?
That would be the total number of stitches contained in the design. If you downsize a 8"X6" design with 30K stitches to 4"X3" without adjusting the stitch count, your 4"X3" design with 30K stitches would be one ugly little lump of stitches. Conversly, if you stretched a 4"X3" design with 10K stitches to 8"X6" without adjusting the stitch count, your design would look very "thin".

How do I get the designs from my computer to my machine?
If your embroidery machine has a USB port, it may also have come equipped with software to allow for transferring designs via a USB cable, or USB memory stick. Check your machine owner's manual for specifics on transferring via USB cable.

If your embroidery machine has a card slot, but no USB port, you will need a card reader/writer, and a blank card such as the Amazing Designs Little Max bundle at Screaming Mimi's Marketplace. Connect the reader/writer box to your computer with the included USB cable, and transfer your design to the Little Max card. The place the card in your embroidery machine to access the design.

Note: The Little Max cards are available in several formats (PES, JEF, ART, etc.)...be sure to purchase the correct format for your machine.

If you have a Brother or Baby Lock machine, the Brother PED-Basic reader/writer, and blank card will work with your machine.

I downloaded designs to my computer but my transfer box software doesn't recognize them. What do I do now?
The files are probably zipped, so you need to extract them. If you do not know how to do this, do a web search on "how to extract zipped folders in XXX" where XXX = your operating system (i.e. Windows 7, Windows Vista, etc.) If you are having trouble finding the file you downloaded, and you're using Windows, check your Downloads folder. This folder is often visible by clicking Start then Computer (or My Computer) -- if you don't see it on the list look in C:/Users/your computer name.

I purchased some Alaphabets, but they are not showing up in my embroidery machine, or software lettering screen. How do I access them?
When you purchase alphabets, you are actually purchasing 26 (or more) different design files, not fonts. For more information on alphabets vs. fonts, click on "Topics", and read the Embroidery Software Buying Guide.

Do you still have questions? Please feel free to comment here, or on my FaceBook page.

Sewing Thread Primer

2012-08-12T12:10:00.000-07:00

When embroidery machines for the home market were first introduced in the early 1990's, thread choices at the retail level were limited. Walk down the thread aisle of any fabric store now, and you'll likely be overwhelmed with the choices. The most experienced sewer and embroiderer can often have trouble finding what they need -- I can't even imagine what must be going through the mind of the newbie who is trying to choose a thread for their project.

It can be tempting to gravitate towards the prettiest, or shiniest, or coolest thread on the rack, but there is much to consider when making your choice. For sewing, you need to consider the fabric (it's content, and weight), the function (seaming, or top stitching for example), and the size of the needle you'll be using. Click "Read More" to continue...

Don't underestimate the importance of the weight of the thread you choose. Thread weights are exactly the opposite of what you would expect -- a 30 weight thread is actually heavier than a 40 weight thread for example.
If you're just beginning your adventure in sewing choose a good all purpose sewing thread. Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus is a cotton covered polyester thread, Mettler Metrosone Plus is a polyester thread, as is Gutterman Sew-All -- all 3 are quality threads, and are readily available. All purpose threads are usually 40 weight threads that will perform well with a 70/10, or 80/12 size needle. Most of these threads have a dull finish.

If you want your top stitching, or button holes to stand out more, you can choose a heavier (30 weight) thread. Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Heavy is an example of a 30 weight thread. Choose a heavier thread if you're hemming jeans, or sewing denim, duck, canvas, or thick home dec fabrics. You'll need to use a larger needle for 30 weight thread -- depending on how thick your fabric is, and how many layers you're sewing through choose a 90/14, 90/16, or 90/18 needle.
If you're looking for a lighter weight thread, then look for a 50 weight. Usually available as a cotton quilters thread, it's also a good choice if you want a more delicate thread for heirloom stitching.

Within the range of 40 weight threads, there are several varieties. Again, what you choose will depend on your fabric, and project. Here's a little help:

Cotton Thread: Often the thread of choice for quilters. While this is a good choice when using all cotton "ingredients" for your projects, I would not use it with other fabrics. If you're making something with a cotton fabric, and you're going to dye or tye-dye the item once it's done, then cotton thread is a very good choice as it will "take" the dye. In that case, be sure to use cotton thread in the bobbin as well.

Cotton Covered Polyester: This is my thread of choice for all purpose sewing. Most of the threads in my sewing box are of this variety. It has the strength of polyester, but with that lovely finish of cotton.

Polyester Thread: Another good choice for all purpose sewing, decorative stitching, and embroidery. It's a strong thread, with a matte or dull finish. It won't bleed onto lighter color fabrics, and it can withstand bleaching without fading.

Rayon Thread: Used mostly for embroidery, this thread has a shiny finish. Also bleach resistant, you can use this for sewing as well -- I've used embroidery thread for sewing many times when I needed a specific color, and wanted to use thread I had on hand rather than making a trip to the fabric store.

There are several brands of embroidery threads. My favorites are Madiera, and Sulky. They're available in most fabric stores, and both brands are available in small, and large variety packs that offer significant savings over purchasing individual spools.
Serger Thread: Usually polyester. Choose a high quality thread such as Maxi-Lock -- this will result in less lint build-up in your machine. You can use these threads for sewing as well. When I'm using both my sewing machine, and my serger to make a garment I like to use the same thread throughout. Since I'm usually using a 3 thread stitch on the serger, I take the 4th cone of thread off the serger, and use it on the sewing machine. You can also use a good quality polyester sewing thread in your serger.

Bobbin Thread: This is usually a 60 weight thread. It's easy to find black, or white, a little more difficult to find colors. Look for, or do a web search on "Bottom Line bobbin thread" if you're looking for more color choices for 60 weight thread. Most of the newer machines perform better with this light weight thread in the bobbin, but you don't necessarily have to use it. I do recommend using it when embroidering, and I believe that quilters prefer a lighter weight bobbin thread. You can purchase pre-wound bobbins, and if you do alot of embroidery, these can be a real time saver.

Specialty Threads: You'll find specialty threads in myriad weights from 12 to 100. If you're going to use a metallic thread for embroidery, or decorative stitching, be sure to use a needle for metallic threads -- it has a bigger eye to prevent shredding of the thread. Heavier threads with a lofty texture, such as Maxi-Lock's Stretch, or Aurafil Wool are intended for use in your serger's looper.

I almost hesitate to say this because it isn't always true, and I don't think that in the big picture it makes a whole lot of difference, but...generally, sewing threads are spun, and embroidery threads are twisted. In my mind, 40 weight is 40 weight is 40 weight. That is to say I use 40 weight threads labeled "embroidery" for sewing, and 40 weight threads labeled "sewing" for embroidery. There are thread colors that I rarely need so that one cone of lime green on my thread rack is going to be the one I'll use for sewing, embroidery, and serging.

One last note on threads...if you have a serger, have a look at the Bob 'N Serge. This is a wonderful little invention that will save you hundreds of dollars. Rather than buy 4 or 5 cones of thread for your serger, you can purchase just one cone, wind 4 or 5 bobbins, and put them in your Bob 'N Serge. It's available now at Screaming Mimi's Marketplace

Craftsy's Biggest Sale Ever

2012-08-11T11:16:00.000-07:00

If you've ever wanted to sign up for an on-line class at Craftsy, now is the time! For the next 3 days, they are offering free classes, and discounted classes priced at just $4.99, $9.99, and $14.99. And here's the thing about their classes...once you enroll, you have access to that class forever! So even if you don't have time to view the class right now, you can take advantage of this great sale pricing to enroll now, and then participate later, at your convenience. You can also give the gift of a class to your favorite crafter.

Craftsy classes aren't just for sewing. They offer cake decorating, jewelry making, knitting, quilting, gardening, spinning, weaving, crocheting, paper crafting, and food crafting classes as well. So go! Learn something new today!

Go to Craftsy.com

Sewing Machine Needle Primer

2012-08-09T09:54:00.000-07:00

When I began sewing it was easy to choose needles for the sewing machine because there really wasn't a choice to make. Needles came in a variety package of sizes, and they were all sharp needles. Go to the notions wall of any fabric store now, and you'll be faced with dozens of needle types and sizes. While I love the choices, it can make the beginners head spin. Hopefully, this will make it a little bit easier to choose the right needle for your project. Click "Read more" to continue...

The most frequently asked questions I hear about needles is "will this needle fit my machine?" and "what type of needle do I need for my (insert machine brand here)?" All sewing and embroidery machines made for the home market take the same kind of needle -- the top has a flat back with a rounded front. The only caveat here is that Singer brand needles seem to be a little bit longer, and may not work as well in your machine unless of course, you have a Singer machine.

The brands that you'll most often find in the retail store are Schmetz, Klasse, and Organ. All are well known, and of good quality.

Note: Commercial embroidery machines take a different typ of needle altogether -- the top is round, and I've never seen those on the notions wall of any fabric store. You'll need to purchase these on-line, or at your local sewing machine dealer.

Needle Types:
When we talk about needle type, we're not referring to the brand of needle but rather, the tip of the needle. As a beginner, you will likely be working on projects, and fabrics that use either a Universal, Ball Point, or Sharp needle. If you're going to buy just one package of needles to start with, then Universal is your best bet.

Sharp Needles: The tip of the needle is sharp. If you're using a woven fabric such as a quilters cotton, you can use a sharp needle. I've noticed that the trend in labeling needles is to leave off any description of the type when it's a sharp needle. So if the package doesn't indicate the needle type, it's most likely a sharp needle.

Ball Point Needles: Use these for knit fabrics, and here is why. When a sharp needle passes through the fabric it breaks the threads in the weave -- this is a good thing on woven fabrics, but a bad thing on knits because the needle will leave little holes at each point where it goes through the fabric, and ultimately weaken the fabric there. A ball point needle moves between the threads of the fabric in the weave, eliminating any little holes in the fabric. So, if you've tried sewing knits, and became frustrated at the result, try a ball point needle -- you'll see a marked difference in the stitch quality.

Universal Needles: This is a hybrid of sorts -- the tip of the needle is not sharp, but not quite ball point. You can use this needle on woven fabrics, heavier knits, and loose weaves.

As I said, there are more needle types than you can shake a stick at. If you're just beginning to sew, I suggest you limit yourself to the three types I just described. As you begin to move into more challenging fabrics, you can choose a needle specifically for the project.

Needle Sizes:
Now that you know what type of needle you need, the next job is to choose the size. The three types I just talked about are usually available in packages that contain a variety of sizes. The most common variety you'll see is 70/10, 80/12, and 90/14 (or numbers very close to that.)

Note on needle sizing: the two numbers indicate both American and European size. There was a time when you purchased either a 70 or a 10 for example. In order to simplify, the needle manufacturers combined these numbers.

As you might have guessed, the smaller the number of the needle size, the smaller the needle. You'll choose the size based on the fabric weight you're sewing. An 80/12 is a pretty good all purpose needle. If you're sewing a lightweight fabric, choose the 70/10. If you're sewing a heavy weight fabric such as denim, or twill then you'll use a 90/14.

If you're using a specialty thread, you need to take that into consideration. The larger the needle size, the larger the eye of the needle. So when I'm hemming jeans, I need that 90/14 needle not just because I'm sewing through a heavy fabric, but because I'm using a heavier thread that requires a larger needle eye.

Embroidery Needles vs Sewing Needles:
The difference between embroidery and sewing needles is that embroidery needles have a slightly larger eye. Most standard embroidery threads are not heavier than all purpose sewing thread, the purpose of the larger eye is to accomodate that constant, fast up and down motion of the needle while embroidering.

So if you're looking for a specific size or type of needle for sewing, and the store has only embroidery needles in that size/type, go ahead and use the embroidery needle. I have used embroidery needles for sewing, and vice versa when I'm in the middle of a project, and can't get to the fabric store.

Serger Needles:
Serger needles are sharp tip, and are ever so slightly shorter than the regular sewing machine needles. I do not interchange these with sewing or embroidery needles.

In my next article, I'll talk about thread choices...there's a ton of 'em!

Serge a Rolled or Narrow Hem

2012-08-04T16:09:00.000-07:00

Yes...another fabric from my stash of vintage fabrics. I love this print, but didn't have quite enough to make a blouse, so I tucked it away, and ear-marked it for a scarf. The piece was slightly less than 1 yard. I cut it in half, and joined the two 44" X 16" pieces at the short sides. Although the size is more that of a shawl, the fabric is light weight enough that I can wear it as a scarf as well.

Because the fabric was so light weight, and I already had my serger set up for a rolled hem, I used the rolled hem stitch to join the 2 pieces. That actually worked out rather nicely. I then just created a rolled hem around all the edges. Here's how I set up my American Home AH100 (twin to the Baby Lock Lauren) serger for a rolled hem...
Click "Read More" to continue....

Screaming Mimi's Sewing Room Marketplace

2012-08-02T20:16:00.001-07:00

I'm so happy to announce that Screaming Mimi's Marketplace is now open. The American Home Serger (AH-100), and Amazing Designs embroidery software programs are available right now -- with many more items to be added in the next few days including notions, tools, storage, and more goodies than you can shake a stick at.

Those of you who follow my work know that I own, and am a huge fan of the American Home Serger. It's such a great little machine, at wonderfully affordable price of just $249. Look for me to post projects, tutorials, tips & tricks for this little gem.

The Amazing Designs collection of embroidery software is one of the best available for the home embroiderer, or small shop. As an independent instructor I've had the opportunity to view many of the available software options for the home embroiderer. I've seen so many newbies with more software than they need, or will ever use -- and it's quite intimidating for them. Screaming Mimi's Marketplace is offering a bundle for the new machine embroidery enthusiast -- you can purchase Edit 'N Stitch, and Personalize 'N Stitch for just $349. Purchased separately these 2 programs would cost $398, so this bundle saves you $49.

For those of you who want a digitizing module, we've bundled Digitize 'N Stitch, with Edit 'N Stitch, and Personalize 'N Stitch -- this bundle is priced at just $499. Purchased separately, these 3 modules would cost $597, so you save $98.

Oh....did I mention that shipping is FREE on all of these items? Yep...the American Home Serger, and the Amazing Designs software all ship FREE!

Check out our new on-line store at Screaming Mimi's Marketplace now...and keep checking back with us for cool new items.

Recycle Jeans Style Skirt into a Purse

2012-07-22T19:55:00.000-07:00

This project was really just about making a new purse for myself, but I've become so accustomed to photographing every step of every project I do that once I had the camera out, I decided I'd go ahead and create a tutorial.

I used a jeans style skirt, but I don't see any reason why you can use pants. Using the skirt seems a little easier because there are no back pocket, but I'm sure with just a little thought, you can make work around that.

Here's the step by step tutorial...including a section on adding a zippered interior pocket.
Click on "Read more" to continue...

Materials:

a jeans sytle skirt, or pants

lining fabric -- if you're buying off the bolt, about 1/3 yard...if you're using scraps, then 2 pieces about 12" to 14" square

a zipper -- for a true recycle, use the zipper from the pants

a closure

Vogue Hat Pattern 8405

2012-07-21T10:20:00.001-07:00

I love the way this hat looks, but holy cow did it ever take me a while to end up here. It's not that the pattern design, or construction is difficult -- my choice of materials just made the job quite challenging. The fabric is a light weight, silky woven blend from the remnant bin at my local indie fabric store. Not really suitable for a hat...a stiffer fabric, something with more body would be the ideal. Still, partly because the fabric is reversible, I just couldn't resist trying.

I used the stiffest interfacing I could find, which was not a problem on the brim, but it proved to be quite contrary when attaching the crown, and top pieces. The difficulty was in getting everything attached evenly. Ultimately, I took the crown off, and hand basted the interfacing to the fabric, then hand basted the top to the crown to attach it. The band is a scrap of a linen like fabric with serged edges. I like to rough look of that against the clean, crisp look of the white & blue fabric. If I make this hat again, I think I'll use a medium weight interfacing on the crown, and top pieces but stick with the heavy interfacing for the brim.