Screaming Mimi's Sewing Room

Accessories Made From Window Valances

2012-02-01T23:04:00.001-08:00

Some time ago while browsing through my local dollar store, I came across some wonderful white, linen like cotton cut-work window valances. I immediately tossed about a dozen of them in my cart figuring I'd think of something to do with them.

My first thought was of tea towels. These valances were about 15" tall X 60" wide. I used a seam ripper to un-sew the rod pocket, and cut the valance into 4 equal pieces. I then made a small (about 1/4") hem on the top and sides -- voila! 4 tea towels for the unbelieveable price of $1.

By cutting the valance in half, I had enough fabric for 2 aprons. Since the valance was hemmed on the edges already, I just hemmed the one raw edge where I had cut it in half, added a waistband/tie, and a little decorative stitching.

I used some of the valance fabric to make some hanger covers. These are great for hanging those strappy little tops and dresses that usually slip right off the hanger. You can use them as garment dust covers as well -- for those things you don't wear often, slip the hanger cover over the garment.

First Sewing Projects

2012-01-30T13:55:00.000-08:00

So you've learned how to use a sewing machine, learned about pattern lay-out, and fabric cutting, purchased your basic tools, have practiced sewing a little bit. Congratulations, you're ready to tackle your first project.

As a sewing instructor, I'm often asked "what is a good first project?" Pajama bottoms, a simple skirt, an apron, or a bag are all suitable projects for beginners. And, Simplicity "Learn to Sew" patterns are an excellent starting place. Because they are designed for beginners, they contain more detailed instructions, as well as a glossary of basic sewing terms.

If you're looking for a first project, take a look at my PJ Bottoms tutorial here on this blog. Purchase any "easy" pattern for pajama bottoms (I suggest Simplicity "Learn to Sew" pattern number 2290), some quilters cotton, or cotton flannel, and the appropriate notions listed on the back of the pattern. Follow along with me on my video tutorial, and you'll be showing off your new creation in no time.

Fingerless Gloves Tutorial

2012-01-27T16:01:00.000-08:00

A friend of mine sent a pair of over-the-knee stockings, and asked me use them to make a pair of fingerless gloves. The picture she sent of her vision showed a thumb piece (as opposed to a thumb hole), so I sat down to figure out how to go about creating these gloves. As it turns out, it's pretty darned easy. Here's how I made the gloves:

Click on "Read more" to continue.

Cut the toe section off of the socks. Depending on the length of the stockings, you may have enough for 2 pair as I did with these. I'm using the tops of the socks for this pair -- they're about 10" long.

Using a straight stitch on my sewing machine, I sewed a backwards check mark through both layers. I sewed a little more than 2" on the long side -- you can use your own hand to determine exactly how long you want that seam.

Tip: if you're using dark socks, and you want to mark your stitch line before sewing, a sliver of dry soap makes a great marking tool.

Cut just outside the seam you just sewed, and then cut off the top of the thumb.

I wanted a more rustic look, so I sewed the outside, leaving the seam visible. If you would like to hide the seam, turn the stocking inside out to sew.

While stretch knits won't ravel if left unfinished, the edges will curl so I finished off the top, and bottom edges with a simple overcast stitch on my sewing machine.

Super simple! And it's something that would be easy to do by hand if you don't have a sewing machine.

Wrapped Dresser

2012-01-21T20:15:00.000-08:00

No, it isn't sewn, but it's in my sewing room so...close enough.

My next door neighbor was getting rid of an old pine dresser -- you know, the kind with the clunky metal handles. I was in need of storage for sewing supplies. Rather than spending hours sanding, and painting I decided to cover it with wrapping paper.
Click on "Read more" to continue

Ok, well I did do a little painting...I just used some of my acrylic craft paints on the face of the dresser (behind the drawer faces), and the top edge. The yellow on the face looked fine, but the red paint on the edges was a little too bright for my taste, so once it was dry, I painted over it with black paint, and then wiped it with a rag to get an antiqued effect.

I purchased 2 rolls of paper, and some Mod Podge (a white glue like substance used for decoupage; available at any craft store). After cutting the paper to size, I used a foam craft/paint brush to apply the Mod Podge to the wood, then placed the paper. Once the paper was dry, I added a second coat of Mod Podge on top of the paper.

Since the original hardware wasn't suitable, I replaced it with some gross grain ribbon from my sewing stash. I just put one end of the ribbon through each of the existing hardware holes, and tied the two ends together on the inside of the drawer. I also used some white glue to attach more ribbon as trim.

Sewing & Embroidery Resources

2012-01-17T18:25:00.000-08:00

Have you ever wondered where the sewing teacher goes for answers, inspriation, and ideas? There are a wealth of websites out there...here are a few of my favorites.

MachineEmbroideryDesigns.com -- A great place to purchase embroidery design files, fonts, and digitizing services. Purchase single designs, or packs. If you register (it's free), you can get 3 free downloads per week! Designs are available in most machine formats.

Sewing.org -- Even better than the Free Projects they feature is the "Guidelines for Sewing" page. It's filled with articles (in pdf format) on sewing techniques for every level.

Sew4Home.com -- I could spend hours just looking through their projects. The tutorials for their projects are clear, and concise.

SewingMachinesPlus.com -- They carry more presser feet than you can shake a stick at! The best part is that each foot description contains a link for information on how to use the foot, and some even have little videos showing projects for the foot.

ThreadsMagazine.com -- What can I say? It's just delicious. There's also a section called "Readers Closet" where you can post pictures of your own projects.

BurdaStyle.com -- Another place to post your projects. Looking through the projects section is fun, inspiring, and educational. You can also download some free sewing patterns there, and view tutorials.

Simplicity.com -- Besides looking at the patterns, I love looking through all the cool little tools in the Sewing & Quilting section.

I'm also a regular viewer of the "Sewing With Nancy" show. Even if I'm not interested in making whatever it is she's working on in any given episode, I always come away an idea, a new technique, or an alternative method.

2012-01-16T16:38:00.000-08:00

By now you've probably noticed that advertisements have begun to appear on my blog. These are "affiliate links" -- when you enter one of these sites by clicking on the advertisement located here on my blog, I receive a small commission on any purchase you make. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Most of you are familiar with these programs, and it's likely you see these types of advertisements on many websites you visit. What I want you to know about these ads is that I've chosen them carefully. I'm featuring reputable merchants who have something to offer the sewer, crafter, and needleworker.

I'm so pleased to have just added the Simplicity Creative Group to my site. Simplicity is the pattern brand I recommend to my beginning, and intermediate students because of their wide choice of "Easy", and "Learn to Sew" patterns. More importantly, their patterns contain instructions that are more suitable to the novice, and intermediate sewer.

Additionally, the site carries a full line of tools, notions, trims, small machines, irons, and even sewing machines, and sergers that are perfect for the new sewer. Since they carry so many products that I recommend to my students, it's very convenient "one stop shopping".

So, if you're looking for any of the products that these featured vendors sell, please enter their site by clicking on the advertisements you see here on my blog.

Sewing Machines at Simplicity.com Sewing Patterns

About Sewing Lessons

2012-01-14T17:58:00.000-08:00

Learning to sew is a process that must begin at the beginning. Begin by learning to use a sewing machine -- it's the first, and maybe the most important step for the would-be sewer. Simple as it sounds, it's a step that too many skip, and then find themselves giving up in frustration. In my Get Started Sewing course, the student is shown how to use every feature on the machine before we begin sewing. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Using the appropriate needle and thread for the fabric, and project can make all the difference between failure and success. All beginner sewing courses should include a primer on needles and threads to guide the student through those purchases. Likewise, knowing the various characteristics of fabric, and how ignoring them will affect a garment is very important. And buying a pattern is not as simple as just choosing a style you like, in the size you would purchase off the rack. Choose a sewing course that covers fabric, and patterns.

Often times, in-store classes offered by major fabric and craft retailers come with a materials, and supplies list. Purchasing tools, supplies, and materials before you've even taken a class is expensive, and wasteful. Not only should a beginner class not require this, but the course should include demonstrations, and information on basic tools and supplies so that the student can make those purchases with a solid knowledge of what they're buying, and how they're going to use those tools. Remember that these big retailers are in the business of selling materials, and supplies. Unfortunately they don't seem to care much about building customer relationships.

An independent fabric store, sewing centers or studios that focus on training, or independent instructors are your best bet for finding a comprehensive course that will serve you better.

Most retail sewing machine shops offer training with the purchase of a machine. Don't confuse this training with sewing lessons, or basic training on how to use a sewing machine. The training that these retailers offer is machine specific -- they're going to show you how to get the most out of your new machine. In fact, I suggest taking a basic sewing class before purchasing a machine. A little bit of knowledge on your part will help the sales person help you find the machine that's right for you, and you'll get much more out of their machine training.

For sewing lessons in the Castro Valley, CA area go to: SewMimi.com

Video Tutorial for the Lined Zippered Pouch

2012-01-13T22:54:00.000-08:00

This easy little lined, zippered pouch is suitable for the novice sewer. Make the bag with cotton for a travel or cosmetic bag; use denim or vinyl and a jeans zipper to make a more masculine version, or use velvet or lace to make a quick evening bag. Click on "Read more" to view the tutorial now. Don't forget to turn the sound on.

Easy Zip Pocket Scarf

2012-01-09T18:38:00.000-08:00

Make this easy Zip Pocket Scarf in less than 1 hour. This is my entry into the Instructables.com "Sew Warm" contest. Click on "read more" to view the tutorial.

Stash Blouse

2012-01-07T12:58:00.000-08:00

I'm calling this my "Stash Blouse" because it was made from materials, and supplies that were in my sewing stash. The back and center front were cut from a super soft doe skin ultra-suede I had left from a shirt I had made. Because there wasn't quite enough of the ultra-suede to cut a whole garment, I incorporated a piece of cotton floral from my vintage (1970's) fabric stash. Click on "Read more" to continue.

I used Simplicity pattern 2191 for this project. The pattern includes sizes for A, B, C, & D cups, so no adjustments were necessary. The only modification I made was to eliminate the back zipper, and use an elastic loop with a pearl button from my button jar.

The embroidery is a combination of a machine pattern, and free motion machine embroidery. The original pattern was small, with just a few flowers and one stem. I enlarged the pattern and added more flowers and stems.

Ultra-Suede Doe Skin Western Style Shirt - Threads

2011-12-17T22:54:00.000-08:00

Ultra-Suede Doe Skin Western Style Shirt - Threads

Purchasing Your First Sewing Machine

2011-12-11T09:34:00.000-08:00

Purchasing your first sewing machine can be a thrill...or a huge disappointment. When new sewers call to schedule lessons, I always ask if they have a machine -- if they don't, I suggest that they complete the beginning sewing course before shopping for their first machine.

While it's true that most independent sewing machine retailers offer lessons or training with the purchase of a new machine, that training is generally machine specific, and happens after you've made your purchase. So if you've never used a machine before, you're at the mercy of the sales person to tell you what you want. By completing a basic sewing course first you can go shopping armed with information, and reduce the risk of going too big, or too small. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Still, this is the time of year when non-sewers are considering buying a sewing machine as a gift for someone else, so here are a few tips on buying a machine for the new sewer.

1. Tempting as the prices might seem, don't purchase a machine on-line unless it's from a retailer that you know, and trust. Most of the higher end machines are not available for on-line purchase, and you will not really get a better price for a lower end machine. Many "big box" stores, fabric & craft retailers, and most sewing machine retailers carry entry level, and mid-level machines.

2. Choose a known brand such as Singer, Babylock, Brother, Janome, or Viking. Those are all good machines, and more importantly it will be easy for the user to find accessories, and support for those machines.

3. Consider going to a mid-level machine for the few extra features that the new sewer will eventually want -- a stitch width selector, a one-step button hole (as opposed to 4 step), stretch stitches, and a drop-in bobbin. The total number of stitches that a machine features is much less important than those other features.

4. If you're purchasing a combo machine (sewing and embroidery), I would suggest a Brother machine. Accessories and support are readily available, as are additional embroidery designs. Be aware that many embroidery only machines, and some Singer combo machines do not feature built-in designs -- they require a computer to transfer designs to the machine. And if you are purchasing a sewing/embroidery combo (or embroidery only), do not purchase additional software -- I've seen too many people end up with very expensive software that is just too much for the new user.

5. Do a little research on-line before you shop. Search for sewing machine reviews, and go to the big box store's websites to read user reviews on various machines.

6. If you would like a second opinion on a machine you're considering, feel free to send me an e-mail -- I'm happy to help.

A Fear of Sewing

2011-11-20T16:18:00.000-08:00

Nearly every day I have the opportunity to talk to someone about sewing -- once people know I sew, and teach teach the craft, they often spill a "fear of sewing". For someone who has never used a sewing machine, the thought of even trying it can be intimidating, but I always like to point out how so many of your everyday household, or work skills will translate to sewing, and serve you well in learning this new skill. Click on "Read more" to continue.

If you cook, bake, knit, or crochet, you are familiar with measurements, you're capable of learning new terms, and you know how to follow written instructions.

If you are a wood worker, you are familiar with measurements, characteristics of materials, power tools, and following plans.

If you're a computer programmer, a bookkeeper, a musician, an artist, a waitress, or even an avid scrapbooker, you know how to follow a logical progression, and consider how the action you're taking now will affect your following actions.

I could go on, but you get the idea. Now I don't mean to say that sewing is as easy as pie (pun intended), but like all of the other skills I mentioned, the learning process begins with familiarizing yourself with the necessary tools, learning about characteristics of the materials you're using, and following written instructions.

You've done that for every skill you have, and then you practiced. Once you mastered the basics, you built on that foundation by seeking out more information. It's just as simple at that -- no mystery involved.

So, if sewing is something you've always wanted to learn, but you have that same fear so many have expressed, just think of all the things you have learned how to do.

Work Shirt Reconstruction

2011-11-13T12:55:00.000-08:00

Even more than creating new garments from scratch, I love giving new life to old clothes. Old shirts are my favorite "canvas"...here are a couple of denim work shirt re-makes. Click on "read more" to see the shirts.

This was my first work shirt remake. Easy as pie! Cut off the collar, cut off the buttons, cut off the sleeve just above the placket. I moved the pocket to the right hip area, and added embroidery to the area where the pocket used to be.
The sleeve edges are finished with an over-cast stitch to leave them with a bit of a rough look. I sewed the elastic right on the inside sleeve with a zig-zag stitch (no need for a casing).

After sewing the front closed, I used a small smocking stitch to gather up the neck opening, then I added a cotton lace trim to finish the neck.

I started with the same style shirt here, but gave it a completely different treatment.

I removed the collar, and stitched the top edge of the collar band back up to create a Mandrin collar.

I changed out the buttons with some fun little flowers from my button jar.

I added quite a bit of hand embroidery using some vintage transfers.

Once again, I cut the sleeve just above the placket. This time though, I hemmed, and slightly pleated the sleeve, and attached the placket just for a little added detail.

And as I did with the other shirt, I moved the pocket, and added some machine embroidery where the pocket originally was. I also added a little machine embroidery to the pocket before sewing it to the hip area.

And my latest work shirt re-make. A very old shirt that I had hand embroidered. I cut off the entire collar, cut the sleeves just above the placket, and created a false cuff which I top-stitched to keep it in place. My favorite part of this one is the new bottom...after cutting the bottom of the shirt off, I placed it backwards and stitched it back together, then top stitched the seam allowance down on both sides of the seam.

Easy Gift Card Envelope

2011-11-13T11:51:00.000-08:00

Giving gift cards takes the stress out of shopping for sure, and we all love receiving them. You can make the gift even more personal by creating a quick and simple envelope to "wrap" your gift card. Here's a step by step for making one style of envelope...I'll bet you'll think of several variations once you start making these. Click on "read more" to view the tutorial.

Materials:
2 pieces of fabric about 4 1/4" X 6"
1 piece of heat bond (the same size as the fabric)
1 piece of ribbon, twill, or tape about 15" long

Fuse one piece of fabric to the heat bond. (If you want to add a monogram, or decorative embroidery, remember to do that before fusing the fabric to the heat bond.)

Remove the paper backing.

Fuse the second piece of fabric to the heat bond.

Fold and press the bottom up leaving about 1 1/2" for the flap.

Use pinking shears or decorative roller blade to trim the narrow edges . You need to do this before you sew.

Stitch around all 4 edges of the envelope.

Use pinking shears or decorative roller blade to trim the remaining edges. I like to trim the side edges after sewing so that I can trim evenly with the stitching. Trimming the bottom edge is optional.

Stitch tie closure to the outside of the envelope flap at about the 1/3 mark of the length of the closure. The long end of the tie will wrap around the back of the envelope to meet the short end.

Finished! I'll bet you're already thinking of all sorts of variations. If you create this in felt, it goes even faster...there's no need to fuse 2 felt pieces together....just use one piece.

If you're using felt, you can create a loop and button closure, or omit the flap completely.

Either way, you can omit the closure, and add some decorative embroidery or monogram to the front.

A Beginners Needle & Thread Primer

2011-08-31T21:58:00.000-07:00

By using the right needle and thread for your fabric, you'll be able to create a more polished, professional looking garment. It can be somewhat confusing for the beginning sewer to choose these items, so I'll give you the basics you need to get started. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Let's start with thread. For most projects an all purpose sewing thread would be your best bet. Coats & Clark Dual Duty threads are good choice while you're figuring out the various threads. Although most threads are not longer marked with the weight, an all purpose thread is 40 weight. Threads are weighted exactly the opposite of what one would expect -- a 30 weight thread is heavier (thicker) than a 40 weight thread, while a 60 weight thread is lighter (thinner) than a 40 weight. So, a Coats & Clark Heavy Duty thread would be a 30 weight -- the same weight you see used for constructing jeans.

Most all purpose threads are cotton covered polyester. Most machine embroidery threads are either polyester, or rayon. Cotton covered poly has a very dull finish, poly has a somewhat shiny finish, and rayon has a shiny finish. Although many will claim that embroidery threads are heavier than sewing thread, they are in most cases 40 weight threads. So, if you want a shiny thread for your project go ahead and use an embroidery thread.

These days, one can find quite a variety of needles. For this primer, I'll concentrate on the 3 main types of needles you would use for sewing. The 2 things you'll be looking at when buying a needle is size, and type.

Needle Sizes: The 3 sizes of needles that you will use most often are those that are found in most of the "variety" packages (although you can purchase packs of just one size). Needles have 2 numbers, and both numbers mean the same thing -- this is because most needle manufacturers have combined European and American sizing to eliminate confusion.

70/10 - this is a somewhat delicate needle. Use this needle when you sewing a more delicate fabric (something thinner than quilters cotton).

80/12 - this is the closest size to an "all purpose" needle there is. A good choice for quilters cotton, and most fashion fabrics.

90/14 - a heavy duty needle. Use this for denim, heavy twill, and anytime you're using a heavy duty thread.

Needle Types: The three basic types of needles are Sharp, Universal, and Ball Point -- the name refers to the tip of the needle.

Sharp: A sharp point needle for sewing woven fabrics. As a sharp needle passes through the fabric, it will break the weave. That's not a problem with tightly woven fabrics, but if used on knits it can create little holes each place the needle goes in.

Ball Point: This needle has a ball point tip; for use on knits, stretch knits, and loosely woven fabrics. As a ball point needles passes through the fabric, it moves between the threads of the weave. Using a ball point needle on knits eliminates the worry of making holes in the fabric.

Universal: A hybrid of the Sharp and the Ball Point. Good for all purpose sewing, can be used on most wovens, and heavier knits.

You will notice that neither the needle package, or your machine manual will incidate what needle brand, or type, or size you should purchase for your particular machine. That is because a sewing machine needle, is a sewing machine needle, is a sewing machine needle. Almost all modern machines use a needle with a flat back, rounded front top; so buy whatever brand you like.

Needles made for home market embroidery machines are just sewing machine needles with a slightly larger eye. If you can't find the type, or size needle you need in a sewing machine needle, go ahead and use an embroidery needle.

PJ Bottoms Tutorial

2011-08-26T16:58:00.000-07:00

For new sewers, watching the process of constructing a simple garment can be a huge help in getting started. With that in mind, I created a video tutorial on making pajama bottoms. I hope it helps you get started sewing! Click on "Read more" to view the video now.

Easy Zippered Pouch

2011-08-24T17:42:00.000-07:00

When students take my "Get Started Sewing - Part 1" class, we finish by making a zippered pouch. It's an easy project that introduces the beginning sewer to measuring and cutting fabric, sewing straight seams, pivoting on a corner, and obstacles when sewing a zipper. It's super easy to make, with the finished bag looking like it was made by someone who's been sewing for years. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Materials: I suggest quilters cotton for beginners; a couple of fat quarters will work nicely. If you're purchasing fabric off the bolt, then 1/4 yard each of the outer, and contrasting lining fabrics will be more than enough. A 7" or 9" zipper. Make sure you get a regular all purpose, or dress zipper. Thread, pins, all purpose presser foot, and a zipper foot.

Instruction:
Cut 4 pieces of fabric (2 outer, and 2 lining) – width of the fabric should be equal to the length of the full zipper, length the pouch fabric should be about 2/3the width (example using a 9” zipper, cut your fabric 9” X 6”). Lay 1 lining piece right side up. Lay the zipper, right side up on top of the lining. Lay a piece of the outer fabric on top of the zipper (fabrics pieces should be “right sides together”). Stitch the 2 pieces of fabric & the zipper together (at the top edge)

Turn the stitched pieces to expose the zipper. The two pieces of fabric will now have the wrong sides of the fabric facing one another. Repeat step one with the remaining fabric.

This is what the result should look like. Fabric is now wrong sides facing one another, and the zipper is exposed. Open the zipper at least half-way.

Turn the fabric so that the right sides are facing one another with the 2 pieces of lining on one side, and the 2 pieces of outer fabric on another. The zipper tape , and seam fabric should be on(towards) the lining side. Stitch along the edges, using a 5/8” seam allowance, leaving an opening to turn everything right side out.

After you’ve turned your pouch right side out, turn the edges of the opening in, and stitch along the edge to close it up.

Push the lining into the pouch.

Choosing Fabric & Patterns for Beginners

2011-08-23T19:59:00.000-07:00

One of the most important things a beginning sewer needs to learn is how to choose a pattern that matches their skill level, and then choose the right fabric for their project. I've seen beginners become frustrated, and abandon their project (and maybe sewing altogether) because the things just aren't going well. Often times the culprit is not sewer, but rather the fabric or difficulty of the garment. I can't say it often enough -- what you see as a simple design, does not always translate to a simple construction!

Start with patterns designed for beginners; those will be clearly labeled assimple, etc. Before you purchase the pattern, open the envelope and look at the instructions. If you can't make heads or tails of the instructions in the store, it's not likely you'll be able to figure it once you get it home. Click on "Read more" to continue.
Start with patterns designed for beginners; those will be clearly labeled as being easy, simple, etc. Before you purchase the pattern, open the envelope and look at the instructions. If you can't make heads or tails of the instructions in the store, it's not likely you'll be able to figure it once you get it home.

Choose the right notions. Choose the type of zipper, elastic, buttons, etc. that are listed on the pattern envelope. If I had a nickle for every time a student showed up with something other than a standard dress zipper....

Whether you choose your fabric first, and then go looking for a pattern, or vice-versa, take the advice of the pattern manufacturer. Every pattern will list suggested fabrics on the back of the envelope. A pattern that is designed for stretch knits will not fit properly when made from a non-stretch woven material.

I generally advise my students to start with fabrics such as quilters cotton, or flannel. Once they learn methods, techniques, and characteristics of various fabrics, then they can slowly move on. Look carefully at the weight of the fabric -- a very lightweight, or silky fabric that is intended for lining is probably not going to work out so well for those pajama bottoms you're making.

Mostly, allow yourself time to learn. Take your time with your project. If you work slowly, you'll find that you learn more quickly.

My Feed Dogs Are Back Up!

2010-06-12T15:04:00.000-07:00

About a year ago, the feed dogs on my Brother SE270D combo sewing/embroidery machine became "stuck" in the down position. Of course, that doesn't render the machine completely unusable -- I could still embroider, but I couldn't sew. Still, it was a crisis of sorts for me since I had a sewing student scheduled, and no sewing machine. Click on "Read more" to continue.

As I was lamenting the fact that I would have to leave my machine at the shop for several days, and ultimately spend more repairing it than a new manual sewing machine would cost, my most generous husband sent me shopping for to buy "teaching" machine.

Since then I have taken the machine apart at least 3 times in a effort to get those feed dogs back in the up position. Each try was unsuccessful. I searched the internet for an answer, but all I found was that several other owners of Brother & BabyLock machines had the same problem. So on the heels of having repaired the reverse stitching problems on my cousin's old machine, and another machine that I picked-up for $20 on Craigslist, I decided to give it another try.

This time, I did not open the case of the machine -- I only removed the throat plate. After about an hour of poking around, I noticed a black "pin" held in at its top by a screw. The pin seemed to be just dangling, with no purpose. By this time I had taken note of a semi circle of white plastic (a well, of sorts) near the bottom that moved from side to side as I moved the feed dog up/down switch. Figuring I had nothing to lose at this point, I gently pushed on that black pin with a screwdriver in an attempt to figure out its purpose. To my surprise, the pin moved into the well. So I turned the hand wheel, and lo & behold, my feed dogs came up!

I hope this helps other owners of Brother & BabyLock machines who have experienced this same problem.

Sewing Knits

2010-06-09T09:56:00.000-07:00

Sewing knits can be challenging, but the right tools, and a little preparation, make the job much easier. Here are some tips to help you get started sewing with knits. Click on "Read more" to continue.

1. Don't allow your fabric to hang off your cutting table. If your table isn't long enough, position a chair so that the excess fabric is resting on the chair back.

2. Lay your fabric out flat (no fold) and cut one piece at a time.

3. Use as few pins as possible while cutting your fabric ...use wieghts instead to keep the pattern pieces in place. Sewing weights are great, but if you don't have those, any fairly heavy object will do...I use canned goods.

4. When cutting small pieces it helps to stablize your fabric to get a nice clean cut. Freezer paper works great for this (you'll find it in the grocery store). Place your uncut fabric on the shiny side of the paper, and press it with your iron. Once you've laid out, and cut your pieces peel the freezer paper off.

5. Use the appropriate size ball-point needle, and if your machine has stretch stitches, use those.

6. Don't push or pull your fabric while sewing...let the machine do the work. If you have a walking foot, now's the time to try it.

7. Instead of pinning hems, try using a temporary adhesive spray to hold the hem in place while sewing. Don't worry if you over-spray, and other areas feel sticky -- the spray will dissipate within a few hours.

If you take your time, sew slow, and get to know the characteristics of the fabric, you'll be much more successful.

Demystifying Your PC

2010-04-26T09:26:00.000-07:00

So you finally bought that beautiful new embroidery machine. And although there are endless resources for designs, and design cards that you can utilize without using a computer, most will eventually want to take that step up to stand alone lettering & editing software. I'll talk about the software itself in the next article, but for now let's talk about the PC where the software will reside. Click "Read more" to continue.

Most of the lettering/editing/digitizing software available requires a PC with the Windows operating system. If you currently have an Apple computer, you may already have the add-on to run programs that require the Window OS (operating system), or you may be able to purchase a utility that will allow you to run Windows software on your Apple computer. It's worth a little time to check into that before purchasing a new computer.

Most of my students have just the most basic knowledge of computers, and it's served them well up to this point. But to get the full benefit of embroidery software, it helps to be aware of how it's set up.

Think of your PC as a file cabinet. Those short-cuts, and file folders you have on your desktop are those things that are sitting on top of the cabinet. The "tray" that runs across the bottom of your screen are the labels on the file cabinet drawers. When you click on Start Computer from the tray, you are presented with a screen that shows something likc "Local Disk: (C), DVD Drive (E)", etc. Think of those as the drawers in your file cabinet.

In a real file cabinet you would have several hanging folders, each containing several file folders. The file folders would contain your individual documents. So if you open the file drawer labaled "Local Disk: (C)", you'll see all of your folders. Some of those may be "hanging folders" -- which is to say that they may contain other folders, and some may be just file folders that contain documents.

This is where you would create folders for your embroidery designs. You may want to create a hanging folder for "Embroidery", and then file folders within that for your various categories of designs. Creating your own folders on your C: drive will help you organize, and locate your designs. When you install your software, accept the file locations that the installation program suggests. The file folders I just talked about are just for your work.

Check the system requirements of the software you are purchasing. For the most part, you will want a computer that meets those requirements. However, if you are not sure of your current computer specs, go ahead an try installing, and using your new software on your computer before running out an purchasing a new one. Many will recommend that your monitor be the larger 17" -- understand that this is not necessary, but rather a suggestion (and an expensive one at that). Also, many of the software programs provide the option for adjusting your video card to accomodate the graphics...look for that in the "Options & Preferences" of your software before deciding you need a newer computer.

I want to add a few words about "memory". This is the area where most novice users get confused, and consequently end up spending money without any benefit.

1. Memory is not the same as Hard Drive space. Your hard drive is where all of your programs, and files reside (the file cabinet). Memory (RAM) is where the current processes, and programs you are running reside (those things that are out of the file cabinet, sitting on your table or desk).

2. Unless you have a really old computer, or an inordinate amount of programs, or documents, you probably not out of hard disk space. Learn how to check the availability before you let someone sell you a new hard drive. And then weigh the cost of a new hard drive against the cost of a new computer.

3. Unless you are running some large, graphic intensive programs, you're probably not "out of memory". If your computer slows up when you have several programs open, close some of them. It's the equivalent of having all those files out on your desk, cluttering up y our office. Just put some of them away...you don't need them all right now anyhow.

4. McAfee and Norton anti-virus software are both notorious RAM hogs. They will slow your system up like no body's business. Get rid of them. Uninstall, and remove all traces. I use the free version of Avast anti-virus.

5. This one is really important. Your computer will take only so much "memory" (RAM), and it probably has the maximum it will use already installed. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen, or heard of people spending hundreds of dollars on "more memory", that they don't need, can't use, and don't know how to install. NEVER, EVER, EVER let anyone sell you "more memory". Again, your problem is much more likely the result of McAfee or Norton.

Shopping for an Embroidery Machine

2010-04-12T17:10:00.000-07:00

Shopping for your first embroidery machine can quickly become a mission of confusion. The sales people, and web stores will provide you with all the specs, and information you need to make a decision, but the problem is, you have no idea what all of these numbers and terms mean. That's not your fault – sales people are there to sell, not educate you on the specifics of how the machine works. So you need to be armed with as much information as possible before you write that check. Click on "Read more" to continue.

Decoding the Spec Sheet:

Sewing Field / Embroidery Area – This is the maximum design size the machine can create. I've noticed a trend among manufacturers of machines for the home market to eliminate this information, and list just the hoop sizes that are included with the machine. To determine if the machine will sew an area larger than the largest included hoop, look at the “Optional Accessories” for that particular model to see if a larger hoop is available. It's important to note that while a larger hoop that's intended for a different model may fit on the model you're looking at, that does not mean it will allow you to sew in that larger area. For example, a Brother machine with a 4” X 4” embroidery will accept a 4” X 6.5” “Super Hoop” – this hoop does not increase the sewing field, but allows you to reposition your work without having to un-hoop, and re-hoop it. The sewing field, or embroidery area is fixed in the machine, and putting a larger hoop on the machine will not increase it.

Designs & Fonts – While researching specs on various machines, I was surprised to see an embroidery machine for the home market that does not include any designs, or fonts. Most include several designs, and at least a few fonts for lettering, and monogramming. How many designs, and fonts a machine comes loaded with is not nearly as important as knowing there are some. Included fonts are usually 2 or 3 simple styles. Even if the specs say that the machine includes 5 fonts, it's usually really 3, with 2 of them being available in both regular, and italic versions.

Needles – Combination Sewing/Embroidery machines, and embroidery machines designed for the home user are single needle machines. Commercial machines generally have 9, 12, or 15 needles. And then there are couple of machines that can fit either category – Brother makes a 6 needle machine, and Janome makes a 4 needle machine. While most commercial embroiderers don't consider these 4, and 6 needle machines suitable for a business venture, I feel that the price (compared to a commercial machine) make them worth a look for someone who is just starting their business – especially if it is a home based business.
As the previous owner of a 15 needle machine that I used in my retail Embroidery & Gift Boutique, I can tell you that a 6 needle machine would have been a suitable alternative. Most of the work I was doing was either personalizing gifts, or placing logos on various items such as polo shirts. Most of these logo's had 3 or 4 colors. Most of the stock designs I used had no more than 6 colors. So my production time would not have been affected by having to make thread changes.

Unless you know for sure that you are going to be doing lots and lots of caps, large bags, or jacket backs, consider starting with a smaller machine. What's the worst thing that could happen? If you get so much business that you need to purchase a larger machine, you still have your small machine for short runs, or as a back-up if the big machine fails, and you can be running 2 different jobs at the same time.

Tip: Even for users of a single needle machine color changes do not have to slow you down if you use the pull-through method rather than re-threading your machine each time you need to change thread. Unwind a few inches of thread from the spool that is on your machine, and cut it. Place the new color (thread) on your spool holder. Tie the end of the new color to the end of the thread that is still in your machine. Take the other end of the thread out of the needle, and gently pull it through the threading path until you're holding the knot where you joined the 2 colors. Cut your thread just above the knot, thread your needle, and continue sewing.

LCD Screen - The size of the LCD screen is usually in direct proportion to the cost of the machine. Having a small screen, or a monochrome screen (as opposed to color) is not necessarily a disadvantage -- especially if you will be using a stand-along software program to create, and edit your text & designs. For the most part, higher end machines have larger screens because of their increased ability to create text, and edit designs.

Card Slots & USB Ports- Nearly all embroidery machines will have card slots -- this is where you insert purchased cards that contain designs, and alphabets. If the machine has a USB port, it's pretty safe to assume that the machine has the ability to import designs directly from your computer. If the machine does not have a USB port, you would need to purchase a card reader/writer, and a blank card to transport designs from your computer to the machine. Sometimes the cost of the card reader/writer, and a blank card is the same or more as the price difference between a machine that doesn't have a USB port, and on that does.

File Formats -- Most of the embroidery machines made for the home market use proprietary file formats for design files. For example, Brother uses .pes, Janome uses .jef, Pfaff uses .vip, and so forth. If you are not going to purchase lettering, editing, and design software for your computer, then you will want to check availability of designs for the file format the machine uses.

Lettering, Editing, and Digitizing Software -- There are more programs out there than you can shake a stick at. The salesperson is going to recommend the product that they sell, and/or provide classes for. At first glance, many of these programs seem to be very reasonable in price, but you'll quickly realize that in order to do anything significant you'll need to purchase several more modules, and before you know it, they've sold you $600 worth of software -- and now have to write yet another check to learn how to use it. Before you purchase any software, do some internet searches. Many of the better products offer trial versions. I use a very powerful, FREE software product. I also provide this product to students who take my "Beyond the Basics" Machine Embroidery course. (a link is available on my website)

Training -- If you are purchasing your machine from a source other than a sewing machine shop that provides at least basic training on the machine, do some research before hand to find classes in your area. You will be much happier with your purchase, and get up to speed more quickly if you have some initial training on the machine.

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Sewing & Embroidery Resources

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About Sewing Lessons

Video Tutorial for the Lined Zippered Pouch

Easy Zip Pocket Scarf

Stash Blouse

Ultra-Suede Doe Skin Western Style Shirt - Threads

Purchasing Your First Sewing Machine

A Fear of Sewing

Work Shirt Reconstruction

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A Beginners Needle & Thread Primer

PJ Bottoms Tutorial

Easy Zippered Pouch

Choosing Fabric & Patterns for Beginners

My Feed Dogs Are Back Up!

Sewing Knits

Demystifying Your PC

Shopping for an Embroidery Machine