If you are visiting Newcastle then you’ll surely be packing your cossies. There are so many cool places to swim in Newcastle, and I’ve tried them out so that I can point you in the right direction.

Come along with me and we’ll enjoy the salty slap of the waves, do many laps and see some beautiful views too.

I had been dreaming of a swimming safari to Newcastle for years. Finally, finally, my children had grown up and left home, and one was at uni in Newcastle.

Add to that a writing retreat at Nobbys Lighthouse through Lighthouse Arts and I was all set for a week of swimming and writing, writing and swimming, with plenty of coastal walking in between and a few catchups with my own uni student Boy Wonder.

But where to start my splashing?

Comparing Newcastle’s Three Ocean Pools

There are three ocean baths in Newcastle: Mereweather Ocean Baths, Newcastle Ocean Baths and the Bogey Hole. Mereweather and Newcastle are enormous manmade swimming pools beside the sea. The Bogey Hole is much more of a natural rock pool, and you have to walk in to it rather than park close by. All three of these ocean pools are free to use. (I will list some land-based swimming pools later as I am planning to use some of these on my next Newcastle visit.)

Things to remember: Newcastle Ocean Baths is closed every Wednesday for cleaning; Mereweather Ocean Baths is closed every Thursday. There are occasional closures for cleaning and maintainence at other times too. Please, I entreat you, do check out the City Of Newcastle Ocean Baths website page here to check current closures BEFORE your visit, just in case the cleaning days have changed.

My son was free on the day that I arrived in Newcastle and we chose to start our Newcastle pools swims at gorgeous Mereweather Ocean Baths.

Mereweather Ocean Baths

Henderson Parade, Mereweather, Newcastle

We started on a sunny Sunday afternoon at Mereweather Ocean Baths, finding a free car park surprisingly close to the pool. I am sure that the parking is very difficult at busy times.

Mereweather is the seaside suburb just a few kilometres south of the city centre. The Baths there were opened in 1935. There are two separate enormous pools. I read that these are both 100 metres long, but they look longer to me.

The first pool is shallow and about 30 metres wide. The vast seaward pool is 50 metres wide and one end of it is ideal for lap swimming with lanes marked out.

It really was a joy to stretch out on the poolside in the sun after doing laps in the pool and then a swim right around the perimeter. The views out to sea are as gorgeous as the pool itself.

There are the remains of an older baths on the beach to the north of Mereweather Ocean Baths. These were called the Ladies Baths. I must go for a swim there next time.

The Bogey Hole, Newcastle

Address: York Drive, King Edward Park, Newcastle

The Bogey Hole is a rock pool which began its life as the Commandant’s Baths in 1819, when Major James Morisset had convicts construct a personal pool for his use at the foot of Shepherds Hill.

It has been expanded over the years, though it looks as if it could be an entirely natural rock pool. This pool is not cleaned by council as the high tide does a splendid job of washing it out.

This does mean that at high tide and when the sea is up there are waves breaking over the pool. Breaking waves can be very dangerous, so use your judgement before you swim. There were occasional big waves coming over when I swam and I kept away from the seaward side of the pool.

There are plenty of fish and other sea life to look at in the pool; this is a very different swim to the other two more manmade ocean baths.

Getting there: Although there are roads within King Edward Park, no cars can get very close to the pool itself. I parked at King Edward Park Lookout and then walked down steps and the path to get to the metal steps that lead down to the pool.

The Bathers Way 6 km walk passes by the pool, and it makes a refreshing stop for walkers. Find The Bathers Way map and info leaflet here.

Read more and see more photos on this website: https://wanderaustralia.com.au/newcastle-bogey-hole/

Newcastle Ocean Baths

Address: 30 Shortland Esplanade, Newcastle

I adore these baths for their beautiful art deco style and the gorgeous faded greens of the seating areas and the magnificent pavilion. That green and the colours of the pool water and the ocean beyond just lull my mind into calmness. And that’s before I’ve even started swimming.

I visited this pool three times and always managed to find a space for the car within a short walk. Mind you, I was not ever there in the middle of a hot summer Sunday. I am sure parking would be difficult then.

To me, this pool feels like a little bit of Europe in Newcastle. I swam laps int he lap section and also splashed around in the bigger pool, with a few swims around the whole perimeter.

Newcastle Ocean Baths were opened to the public in 1922. Close your eyes and shake your head then open them to imagine you’ve gone back in time. It’s easy.

Just alongside the baths, on the Newcastle Beach side there is a huge round wading pool, an oasis and a paradise for children, this is known as the Canoe Pool and is well worth a splash if you have brought the family.

History buffs will enjoy the University of Newcastle’s Living Histories Historic Swimming Baths slide show here.

Newcastle Ocean Swimming

Bar Beach

Ocean swim groups regularly swim from Bar Beach, it is also a wonderful spot just to play between the flags.

Find current local Newcastle ocean swimming groups on the Ocean Swims website here.

Nobbys Beach

Newcastle Outdoor Seasonal Pools

These five pools are owned by City of Newcastle and operated by BlueFit Aquatics. All are outdoor and seasonal — smoke-free, with off-street and accessible parking, steps with handrails for pool entry, and BlueFit learn-to-swim programs.

For more details on each one, including seasonal opening times, check out the Newcastle Pools website or call (02) 4952 5522.

1. Lambton Park War Memorial Swimming Centre

Address: Durham Road, Lambton NSW 2299

The flagship of Newcastle’s public pool network — the biggest, busiest and longest-running seasonal pool.

• Four pools — a 50m main pool, diving pool with boards and tower, plus a learners and toddlers pool, and a water park area.
• Opened in 1963 as Newcastle’s first inland swimming pool; attracts an average of 184,000 visitors annually.
• Features a 100-metre water slide, aquatic playground and full-service café.

2. Mayfield Swimming Centre

Address: Ingall Street, Mayfield NSW 2304

A beloved community pool located in Dangar Park, popular with families and school carnival groups.

• Two pools, a main 50m pool and a learners pool
• On-site kiosk and BBQ facilities.

3. Stockton War Memorial Swimming Centre

Address: Fullerton Street, Stockton NSW 2295

A uniquely located pool right on the harbour foreshore, with easy bike and ferry access.

• Two pools, a main 50m pool and a shallow learners pool

4. Wallsend Memorial Olympic Swimming Centre

Address: Cowper Street, Wallsend NSW 2287

A charming neighbourhood pool not far from Wallsend CBD, recently upgraded with accessible changerooms.

• Three pools — a main 50m pool, a free swim area on one side, and a toddler pool

5. Beresfield Swimming Centre

Address: 230 Anderson Drive, Beresfield NSW 2322

A community-focused pool serving the western corridor of Newcastle, with upgraded solar heating.

• Three pools — a main 50m pool, learners pool and toddlers pool

Best Newcastle Indoor Swimming Pool

NUsport Aquatic Centre (University of Newcastle, Callaghan)

Address: 130 University Drive, Callaghan NSW 2308

Website: nusport.org.au

The region’s only 50-metre indoor heated swimming pool, with 8 lanes and seating for 400 spectators.

• Number of pools: 1 main pool + splash zone
• Pool length: 8-lane, 50m heated indoor pool
• State-of-the-art UV filtration system for superior water quality
• Open year-round (except Christmas Day and Good Friday); Mon–Fri 5:30am–10pm, weekends 7am–7pm
• On-site café serving barista coffee plus fresh food options

Swim in Newcastle FAQ

I hope that you feel completely up to speed with where to swim in Newcastle, New South Wales. The ocean baths there are absolutely some of the very finest in Australia.

You might enjoy a look at this website: https://swimmingholeheaven.com/

Find many more articles about great Australian places to swim here.

When To Go

We travelled in December, and found the climate was good then. It was cool in Hanoi but not cold when we were there. Ho Chi Minh city was HOT, and humid too. We needed our lightest clothes and to drink plenty water.

Vietnam stretches over 1,000 kilometres from north to south, so there is considerable regional variety in climate. Generally speaking, the northern autumn, winter and spring — from September through to April — are the best times to visit. During this period the weather is cooler in the northern areas and there is less rain in the south. We will try either autumn or spring for our next Vietnam holiday.

NB The northern summer months are extremely hot and humid throughout the country, which makes the cooler season strongly preferable.

Planning Your Trip

Vietnam Paradise Travel, a Hanoi-based company, is the local travel company that we used to do for our trip. We described the sort of visit our group of four would like and they handled every logistical detail — booking hotels, internal flights, tour guides, all transfers and visits. Drivers were waiting at the airport on arrival in Hanoi, and after each internal flight.

Vietnam Paradise Travel consultants were very patient throughout the planning process as itinerary details were worked out, and their knowledge of the country is excellent. Itinerary ideas can be found on their website, after which it is simply a matter of emailing the office to discuss your specific needs.

I do love to find a good local company to use in the country I am visiting. I feel this gives a better and more authentic in-country experience, helps boost the local economy and, crucially for we Scottish-Aussies, they tend to be much better value than an Australia-based travel company.

In terms of accommodation, four-star hotels were used throughout this trip and were very comfortable. Some were much grander than we had expected.

A Two-Week Itinerary: From North to South

Our itinerary is described below. We spent two weeks travelling from Hanoi in the north down to Ho Chi Minh City in the south — a classic and deeply rewarding route through the country.

We were pretty busy most days, and we did two internal flights, but we did have the odd empty half day which I especially enjoyed. On this trip we did not do any train travel and that is something that I would definitely do next time.

Days 1–3: Hanoi

We flew into Hanoi and stayed for three nights. The Rex Hotel, right in the centre of the Old Quarter, is a comfortable and supremely well-located base — making it very easy to walk all over this fascinating area, by day and by night. There are little shops, cafes and restaurants, and street sellers around every corner, plus the buzzing motorbikes that are a constant feature of Vietnamese city life. From the roof of the hotel, Hoan Kiem Lake is visible — an easy and rewarding walk away.

Things to do in Hanoi:

Self-guided walking tour of the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake — the Old Quarter is one of the great urban neighbourhoods of Southeast Asia, a warren of ancient streets each historically associated with a particular trade. Hoan Kiem Lake, with its Thap Rua Tower and the Red Bridge, is a beautiful and peaceful counterpoint to the bustle of the surrounding streets. On Sundays, streets around the lake are cordoned off and given over to pedestrians and cyclists.

Cyclo tour of the Old Quarter — a very touristy thing to do, but for very good reason. A cyclo ride is enormous fun and covers a lot of ground efficiently, revealing corners of the Old Quarter that can then be explored on foot at leisure.

City tour — our guided day tour of Hanoi’s main historical sites was terrific, having a knowledgeable guide with his own stories about the places we visited was fascinating.

Sites included:

• The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum — a massive and imposing building where Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed body lies in state, which survived many bombing raids during the war. In sharp contrast, Ho Chi Minh chose to live in a very simple house on stilts, with plain wooden furniture — the contrast between the grand French Colonial Governor’s Palace nearby and Ho Chi Minh’s modest dwelling is striking.
• The One Pillar Pagoda
• The Ethnology Museum
• The Temple of Literature — a historic university of which most visitors know little before arriving, and which impresses enormously. The buildings are beautiful and the stories of thousands of years of learning that took place here are fascinating. A private guide is absolutely invaluable here.
• The Hanoi Hilton — the prison where American POWs were kept during the war, which also contains excellent and sobering exhibitions about the treatment of Vietnamese people during the French colonial period and the long, bloody history of this site.

Water Puppet Show — a uniquely Vietnamese art form performed in a beautiful colonial-era theatre, this is a must-see in Hanoi. Many different stories are acted out by the puppets, with plenty of action and humour, and it is magical for visitors of any age.

Shopping in the Old Quarter — there are dozens of little shops selling handicrafts, clothes, shoes and souvenirs, all at a fraction of the price you would pay elsewhere. Bargaining is part of the experience and well worth practising.

Days 4–5: Halong Bay

We were driven from Hanoi to i to Tuan Chau harbour — approximately three hours by road — and boarded an Alisa Cruise vessel for a two-night cruise. Alisa Cruises vessels are luxurious with spacious cabins featuring large bathrooms with spa baths and separate showers, private balconies and a wonderful upper deck for reading and taking in the extraordinary scenery. We were glad to do a two night cruise, one night would have felt too rushed for us.

Things to do at Halong Bay:

• Kayaking — offered twice during the two-night cruise, this is one of the great pleasures of the bay. Small tenders ferry passengers to floating pontoons among the islands, where everyone is fitted with lifejackets before setting off in kayaks. Paddling quietly through the towering limestone formations, with the chance of spotting wildlife including monkeys on some of the smaller islands, is an experience that stays with you.
• Titop Island — we climbed the steep steps to the lookout at the top for panoramic views over the surrounding islands, among the most striking in the entire bay. There is also a small beach and a netted swimming area at the base.
• Cua Van Floating Village — a fascinating floating community among the islands.
• Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave) — the largest cave system in the bay, reached via a steep climb up many steps on Bo Hon Island. The cave operates as a one-way route through vast chambers filled with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. First entered by outsiders in 1901 and only recently a major tourist attraction, it feels remarkably untouched. Pathways are well-maintained, tourists are kept to specific walkways, and the lighting is thoughtfully done. This was very touristy with lots of visitors but the views were spectacular.
• Smaller, less-visited caves explored with a guide — requiring clambering under low entrances and navigating in near-darkness, a thrilling contrast to the polished main cave.
• Cooking class on board
• Squid fishing from the deck in the evenings
• Sunrise tai chi on deck

The food aboard is genuinely excellent and very generous, with great vegetarian options. The crew are jolly, attentive and helpful, and their English is good. On both evenings at anchor, the bay fills with the lights of dozens of other boats. Floating vendors sometimes paddle out to anchored ships — keep some local cash handy.

Halong Bay is FULL of tourists and tourist boats, there were often dozens moored alongside ours and they all look exactly the same. But still, the beauty of this amazing area with its craggy limestone islands was well worth it, busy as it is.

Days 6–9: Hoi An

We were driven back to to Hanoi airport, flew to Danang, then drove to Hoi An for four nights. The Laluna Hoi An Riverside Hotel and Spa is a particularly spacious and luxurious base, with excellent bathrooms. Hoi An — whose name translates as “Peaceful Meeting Place” — was a major trading port between the 15th and 19th centuries, its architecture showing Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and French colonial influences.

Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, often compared to Venice for its beauty and its popularity with tourists. The best time to walk around the ancient town and visit the old houses is in the morning, before tour groups arrive in the afternoons and evenings and take over the whole place.

Things to do in Hoi An:

Walking tour of the Ancient Town — our guide in Hoi An explained the layers of history in the architecture and the stories of the old merchant houses. The Japanese Bridge is a highlight, as are the colourful boats on the Thu Bon River, which are particularly busy and atmospheric in the evenings.

Hoi An Market — a wonderful, bustling market with extraordinarily fresh produce, noodles and local specialities. Yum!

Red Bridge Cooking School — we loved this half-day class that begins at the Hoi An food market, followed by a boat trip upriver to the cooking school. During the class, we cooked Hoi An pancakes, seafood salad, fresh rice paper rolls (including making the rice paper from scratch), noodles with chicken, and steamed fish on a bed of vegetables — then sat down and ate all of it! Absolutely excellent, and possibly the best meal of the entire trip.

Reaching Out Tea House — My favourite cafe in Hoi An! This lovely cafe in the Ancient Town is run by the deaf community, a perfect spot to sit and watch the world go by with a pot of tea.

Exploring the cafes of the Ancient Town — Hoi An is an excellent place simply to wander, sit, observe and soak up the atmosphere.

Have some clothes made – we got advice from our local guide as to which shops to go to and we had some of our favourite shirts and dresses copied with local fabric. Love it!

Days 10–13: Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon

We flew from Danang to Ho Chi Minh City (also widely known as Saigon, and often abbreviated to HCMC — the two names are largely interchangeable) and stayed for four nights at the Orchid Saigon Hotel. This vast, buzzing city was very hot and very humid, so we made sure not to rush around too much.

Having a dedicated guide for the time spent in and around HCMC was especially valuable here — hearing Vietnam’s history explained through the personal and family stories of our young local guide brought an immediacy and intimacy to the experience.

Things to do in Ho Chi Minh City:

Saigon city tour — highlights include the stunning French colonial Post Office, the 1960s Presidential Palace, and Ben Thanh Market. Lunch at a gorgeous colonial-era restaurant was a pleasure.

War Remnants Museum — a hard-hitting and deeply important museum with many graphic images of war. It is not for the faint-hearted, but for those who want to understand Vietnam’s 20th-century history it is essential. The reconstructed prisons — particularly the horrific “tiger cages” — are deeply disturbing. The sections on war crimes, on the long-lasting effects of Agent Orange, and on the Anti-War movements are all profoundly affecting.

The museum, combined with the Hanoi Hilton and the Chu Chi Tunnels, provided a comprehensive and sobering picture of both the French occupation of Vietnam and the American War that followed. After visiting, the ten-part Netflix documentary series “The Vietnam War” by Ken Burns and Lynn Novick — which examines the war from all angles, including many North Vietnamese perspectives — is highly recommended viewing.

Chu Chi Tunnels — about 70 kilometres from the centre of HCMC (roughly a two-hour drive depending on traffic), the tunnel complex is one of the most remarkable war memorials in the world. Only a small section of the hundreds of kilometres of tunnels is open to the public, but the displays showing the underground facilities that were built and used during the war are fascinating and sobering.

You can crawl through a section of the narrow tunnels, and there are exhibits of booby traps, weapons and underground living quarters. A welcome cup of pandanus tea and taro — a typical tunnel soldier’s meal — is served at the end. The fact that all of these tunnels were operational so close to Saigon, entirely without the knowledge of people living in the city, is astonishing.

Mekong Delta day trip — a labyrinth of rivers, floating markets and rural villages, the delta is best explored by sampan boat along its narrow waterways. There are farms to visit on the islands, a huge temple with impressive Buddha statues, and a glimpse of a way of life far removed from the city. It is excellent cycling country too. Note that this is a busy tourist route and this was probably my least favourite day of the trip. It was terribly hot and I probably needed a day off from being a tourist.

In Ho Chi Minh City, Hum Restaurant was a standout for vegetarians — pretty upmarket and really terrific plant-based food.

We did not do night food tour by Vespa in Ho Chi Minh City and I am still full of regret about that!!

Vietnamese Food

Honestly, I’d go on a Vietnam holiday just for the food. It is so yum, fresh and light and delicious, and plentiful! Dn’t take my word for it, check out some photos!!

What To Do Next Time

Another Vietnam holiday is definitely on the cards for us, and ideally for longer than two weeks. I’m jotting down my ideas for where to visit net here:

• Sapa — in the north, for mountain trekking through stunning highland scenery
• Phu Quoc — a beautiful island in the south
• Hue — the former imperial capital, rich in history and architecture
• Dalat — a cool highland city with a distinctive French colonial character
• Ninh Binh — sometimes called “Halong Bay on land,” with dramatic karst scenery and scenic boat trips through cave systems
• Deeper Mekong Delta — spending several days cruising further into the delta, away from the main tourist routes

Books To Read On Your Vietnam Holiday

Hope that this helps as you plan for your Vietnam holiday!

Read my Best Australian Swimming Holidays article here!

Sea Lice Stings: What They Are, What They Look Like, and How to Treat Them

If you’ve been for a swim in the ocean lately and come out with an itchy red stings that are driving you mad, you may have had a run-in with sea lice — one of Australia’s most annoying sea creatures. And in fact, sea lice stings can happen all over the world.

What Are Sea Lice?

Despite the name, what we call “sea lice” are not lice at all. Real sea lice are parasites that infest salmon (do yourself a favour and don’t Google that). What we’re dealing with here are actually the microscopic larvae of jellyfish — colourless, minuscule, and virtually impossible to see, let alone photograph.

These tiny creatures carry the same stinging cells as adult jellyfish. The scientific name for these cells is nematocysts, and when they fire, you know about it.

Sea lice tend to be most prevalent during the warm summer months, sometimes in very large numbers.

What Do Sea Lice Stings Look Like?

“Sea lice stings” is actually a misnomer — what you’re experiencing are lots of tiny stings that produce a rash. Historically, this was known as seabather’s eruption, and the technical term for the rash is pruritic dermatitis. The rash presents as red, itchy, raised bumps in the areas covered by your swimsuit. It is typically very uncomfortable, lasting anywhere from two to four days, though some unlucky swimmers may find themselves itching for up to two weeks.

Occasionally, other symptoms such as fever, fatigue, sore throat, and abdominal discomfort can occur — these tend to be more common in children than adults. Children under 15 may experience more pronounced symptoms generally, partly because they tend to spend more time in the water.

Can You Feel Sea Lice While Swimming?

You might feel a few small stings when you first swim into a patch of larvae, but after that, you’re unlikely to notice much in the water. The real trouble starts later — symptoms can appear anywhere from a few minutes to around six hours after leaving the ocean, with an itchy rash appearing in the areas covered by your swimsuit.

This is because the larvae get trapped in your costume and fire off their nematocyst cells against your skin. As the swimmer gets out of the sea, water drains out of the bathing suit, trapping the organisms between the suit and the skin, and the pressure causes the stinging cells to discharge. The covered areas cop the worst of it.

Worth noting: the rash is an allergic reaction to the toxins released, and if you get seabather’s eruption more than once, the reaction can actually get worse each time. So it pays to take prevention seriously.

How to Treat Sea Lice Stings

The golden rule: don’t scratch, and don’t rub the affected area — this can cause any remaining larvae to sting further. Here are the steps to take and things that can help:

• Remove your swimsuit immediately — this is the most important first step
• Rinse off with seawater first if possible, as an immediate rinse with fresh water can sometimes cause additional stinging from organisms still on your skin
• Once you’ve done an initial rinse, shower with soap and scrub the skin thoroughly
• Apply diluted vinegar or rubbing alcohol to help neutralise any remaining toxins on the skin
• Use ice packs to soothe the sting
• Apply 1% hydrocortisone cream two to three times daily — this is considered the most useful treatment
• Take an antihistamine, as the rash is essentially an allergic reaction and antihistamines can help ease symptoms
• Ibuprofen or paracetamol can help with pain and inflammation
• Stingose spray or cream is also very effective
• For severe rashes, see a dermatologist, who may prescribe a stronger topical or oral corticosteroid

If the rash becomes red, hot, or increasingly sore, see a GP promptly — it may have become infected.

How to Avoid Sea Lice Stings

If you feel those telltale mini stings while swimming, take action as soon as you leave the water. Here’s what to do — and what NOT to do:

Do:

• Remove your swimsuit before showering
• Rinse with seawater before a freshwater shower
• Wash your swimsuit in hot, soapy water after every swim in affected conditions, and dry it in a dryer if possible — for a severe case, consider throwing the swimsuit out entirely
• Rinse the costume in vinegar or rubbing alcohol before washing

Don’t:

• Shower while still wearing your contaminated swimsuit — freshwater triggers nematocyst discharge, which can make symptoms significantly worse
• Rub your skin with a towel while still in your swimsuit
• Put a wet or unwashed swimsuit back on — nematocysts can survive in damp fabric for up to a week

One-piece swimsuits and T-shirts worn in the water increase the surface area exposed to stings and can lead to more severe reactions, so if you’re in an area known for sea lice, a minimal swimsuit is actually an advantage.

And the ultimate (if slightly impractical) solution? Swim nude. No swimsuit means nowhere for the larvae to get trapped. For those not keen on that option, sticking to winter swims is another workaround, as sea lice are far less common in cooler months. If sea lice warnings or flags are posted at a beach, the safest option is simply to stay out of the water that day.

Where in the World Do Sea Lice Occur?

If you’re suffering from sea lice stings in Sydney, you’re far from alone — seabather’s eruption is a worldwide phenomenon found wherever warm coastal waters exist. Here’s where it’s been documented:

Caribbean, Florida, Mexico and the Gulf States

This is the most heavily studied region for seabather’s eruption and where it is most prevalent. The condition is especially common from March through August, peaking in May and June when larval concentrations are at their highest in nearshore waters.

Eastern USA

A related species — the sea anemone Edwardsiella lineata — causes seabather’s eruption along the US east coast from the mid-Atlantic states up through New York, particularly off Long Island.

Brazil

Cases were first reported in Brazil in 2001 and have been documented in the country’s southern coastal regions.

Papua New Guinea

The thimble jellyfish responsible for most cases has also been reported in Papua New Guinea’s waters.

Asia and East Africa

A closely related jellyfish species, Linuche aquila, found anywhere between Malaysia, the Philippines, and the east coast of Africa, is also known to cause seabather’s eruption.

Australia

Swimmers in Queensland have reported seabather’s eruption during summer months, and it is well-known along the NSW coast, including Sydney’s beaches — as this article can attest!

New Zealand

Swimmers at east-coast beaches of Auckland and throughout the Hauraki Gulf can experience seabather’s eruption, typically during the summer months.

In general, the condition has now been reported across many tropical and subtropical waters worldwide. Scientists believe that in different parts of the world, different local marine creatures may be responsible — so sea lice are truly a global swimmer’s hazard.

Australia has no shortage of creatures that will bite, sting, or otherwise ruin your day — but sea lice are manageable once you know what you’re dealing with.

Happy swimming!

PS Sorry about showing you my bare tummy.

Read more about swimming adventures here.

Best Australian Swimming Holidays– for swimmers of all levels

Are you a sea swimmer? Do you love a salty dip? Have you heard about the swimming holidays that can be done throughout Australia? The good news is that you do not need to be a champion swimmer to enjoy an Aussie swimming holiday. You just need to be keen.

So, what is a swimming holiday? Doesn’t everyone swim on holiday?

Many people do swim on holiday, but an actual swimming holiday is a different aquatic beast altogether. On a swimming holiday, you are guided by experts who take their swimmers to the best local areas, often by boat. Your swimming holiday company will ensure your safety and usually manages accommodation and meals as well as the swimming part of the trip.

Most holidays will offer at least two guided swims each day, each between 1km – 2km in length, however guests are generally able to swim as far as they choose to, rejoining the boat if they tire earlier than the other swimmers.

Heron Island with Ocean Swim Safaris

Founded in 2002 by Paul Ellercamp and Suanne Hunt, Ocean Swim Safaris is now run by the worldwide swimming company SwimTrek which is based in the UK. However, it retains its Aussie flavour and runs all the swims that were pioneered by the founders. Most OSS trips are overseas: Sulawesi, Philippines, Palau and Tonga feature.

In Australia, OSS runs swimming trips to Heron Island several times a year. Heron Island is a coral cay off the Queensland coast and accessed by boat or helicopter from Gladstone.  Two guided swims a day take place along the coral reef which spreads out around the resort island. The exact locations depends upon wind and tide, decided by the skipper of the boat that takes the swimmers out.

Early morning swims from the beach are also a feature though these are generally not guided. When I went on a Heron Island swim holiday, I loved swimming out to see the shipwreck with its profusion of fish and rays. The reefs swims were wonderful too, who doesn’t love seeing large turtles drifting by, or the darting silhouette of a black-tipped reef shark?

Swimmers at Heron Island will see the full range of coral reef marine life, with plenty of turtles, rays and reef sharks seen on most swims. The distances are generally 1 – 2km per swim.

Check out the Ocean Swim Safaris website here.

Swimwild Escape – Great Keppel Island and W.A/N.T.

Long distance swimmer Simone Blaser runs Swimwild Escape from her base in Perth, WA.  Simone’s swimming retreats vary from three to five nights, with locations including Rottnest Island, Denmark, The Kimberley, Darwin Margaret River, Augusta, Lake Argyle and Great Keppel Island in Queensland.

Although the swimming retreats are adventurous, Simone is keen to cater for all levels of swimmers, with the ability to choose your distance on every swim being a feature.

Find the Swimwild Escape website here.

Swim The Whitsundays with Oceanfit

Oceanfit has been running swim holidays since 2009 with the signature swimming holidays being Swim The Whitsundays, a five-day, four-night journey aboard the historic Solway Lass ship. The Whitsundays are known for blinding white beaches and clear waters, with coral reefs teeming with sea life. Each holiday is unique with the wind and weather helping set each day’s sailing and swimming locations. Hiking and snorkelling are available as well as the guided sea swims.

Find the Oceanfit website here.

Sydney Swim Tours

Oceanfit runs guided four-day swimming tours in Sydney with ocean and rock pools swims being included, as well as walking and other sightseeing options. A long course swimming tour is planned for Jervis Bay for serious swimmers who enjoy longer distances.

Find the Oceanfit website here.

Swimming weekends at Bondi and surrounds are also offered by Swim Tours Australia.

Swim Tours Australia website is here.

Queensland Island Swims with Swim Tours Australia

Ally Zillman runs Swim Tours Australia, offering several swimming holidays throughout the year to some spectacular islands off the Queensland coast:

K’gari Fraser Island

Lady Elliott Island

Moreton Island

Swimming weekends at Bondi and surrounds are also offered by Swim Tours Australia.

Swim Tours Australia website is here.

Swimming Women Swim Holidays W.A.

 Swimming Women was founded by Charlotte O’Beirne in 2013 to run swimming training in Busselton and Margaret River. Branching out into swim holidays in 2017, the company now offers guided swimming holidays to Rottnest Island and to Sydney as well as swimming day trips at Margaret River.

 Swimming Women website is here.

Lord Howe Island Ocean Swim Weeks

Run in February at Pinetrees Lodge, Ocean Swim Weeks book out fast. No wonder though as the pristine and wildlife-filled waters around Lord Howe Island are clear and stunning beautiful. And the rest of the island is not bad either.

Pinetrees website is here.

Gold Coast Swimming Holiday

The UK-based company Swim Quest offers 7 day/6 nights swimming holidays at the Gold Coast. Both the ocean beaches and the waterfalls and pools of the Gold Coast Hinterland. Try surf lifesaving too, plus yoga to relax.

Swim Quest website is here.

#iswimhappy Keppel Islands and Tasmania Swims

Twice Olympian for his native Latvia, Val Kalmikovs, runs the annual Swim Around Keppel challenge as well as warm water camps from Great Keppel Island and cold water camps and long distance swims in Tasmania. Check out the options on the website.

#iswimhappy website is here.

Swim Smooth 10-Day Training Camp, Perth

Improve your swimming at a 10-day swim training camp based at beautiful Cottesloe beach in Perth. There’s coaching, ocean swimming and video analysis on offer.

Swim Smooth is a coaching company with its own philiosophy of swim training, with a fcus on technique, trainings and open water skills.

Swim Smooth website is here.

Long Distance Swim Training

Three Australian companies offer swimming training for serious long distance swimmers

Long distance swimmers who are training for an event can find swim training camps offered by SwimWell.

Effortless Swimming offers long distance swim camps in the Whitsundays. 

Vlad Swim offers cold water camps for marathon swimmers.

Hope that you have emjoyed this tour of all the best Australian swimming holidays currently on offer. Where would you like to go next?

P.S. My top tip: if you feel a bit nervous about going on a swimming holiday, just take your flippers and swim with those.

Are you looking for a simple silver ring workshop? Let me assist! Last weekend, I did a three-hour chunky silver ring workshop in Berry, NSW. The teacher was Naomi Dootson of Apple Eye Jewellery who did a terrific job of helping myself and the other workshop participants to create a beautiful ring to take home.

What a treat. I loved all the elements of making this ring and learned SO MUCH. I especially learning how very complex it is to make a silver ring, and how skilled jewellers are.

Here’s a very short video that I made showing various elements: stamping onto silver, hammering textures, cutting, heating and bending, soldering, filing and sanding.

Silver Eye Jewellery Contacts

Address: Co.Lab Berry, 81 Queen St, Berry NSW 2535

Website: https://www.appleye.com.au

A Weekend Away in Berry

Berry is 170 km south of Sydney (the drive usually takes about two hours). Berry makes a wonderful countryside weekend away for anyone keen to escape the city bustle.

The town is full of cute little shops as well as lovely cafes and restaurants. Country cottages and historic larger homes are everywhere you look.

Check out Booking.com or Airbnb to see what sort of accommodation options would work for you.

For the best local information on things to do and places to stay in Berry, check out the local tournsm website: https://berry.org.au/

I used to make earrings when I was a teenager, and have meant to try silversmithing ever since. And now finally I did it. I would love to do some more jewellery making. I shall keep my eyes peeled for more workshops. Or perhaps even a TAFE course one day.

One of the things I enjoyed about this three hour workshop was the delightful state of flow I got into when I was working on my ring. There’s something very satisfying about using tools and doing simple repetitive actions. The hammering wasn’t so relaxing, but it felt like a great release!

If you are like me and don’t see yourself as a crafty person, this sort of simple but productive workshop, with a teacher who is enthusiastic and super supportive is just the ticket.

Have you ever done any silversmithing yourself? Or jewellery making? Would you like to do this sort of silver ring workshop one day? I did it on my own, but would love to do another one with a bunch of friends one day. It’d make an excellent birthday treat.

There’s nothing quite like doing something brand new, is there? And to take home a beautiful silver ring at the end of the workshop means I won’t forget my time at the workshop, ever.

February

Orange

It is the first full week of the new school term and the kids seem to be settling in well. Thank God for children who get up each morning and go to school happily. Late one afternoon, I pull my two favourite frying pans out of the cupboard, turn on the stove and pour the olive oil. Here I am in this somewhat dilapidated kitchen, cooking sausages. Again. Bloody sausages. How many sausages can one mother cook in her lifetime?

From when I was a little girl, I always thought I would have children. Giving birth was always in my life plan. Looking back, I think that I always wanted to know what it felt like to give birth. I hadn’t computed that, once birthed, children stay around for a very long time indeed. And you have to look after them, feed them, every day. Maybe if I had known how many sausages were involved I would have given the whole parenting thing a much harder look.

In one frying pan, I’ve got short, fat, organic, grass-fed beef sausages and in the second I have long, slim, vegetarian sausages. This is my family’s cooking life, since Paul is a long- time vegetarian but the children are not. For myself I prefer to eat vegetarian but I will eat anything. Anything! And if I’m in the joyful position of eating something that someone else has cooked for me (thought out, planned, shopped for, cooked) then I’ll scoff it with gusto, tears of gratitude dripping onto the plate.

Thin beef sausages, fat lamb sausages, many varieties of vegetarian sausages, chicken sausages, barbecued, grilled, roasted or fried like today. The kids love them, but I look at these sausages sizzling in the pan and wonder when the day will come that I pick up a fork and instead of poking it into the sleek side of a sausage I just stab it into my eye and scream. In Sydney I have driven miles across town to buy kangaroo sausages and even crocodile sausages just to relieve my sausage doldrums. The tedium of motherhood, the rancid repetitiveness of it, is all there in these two frying pans. So much of all this mothering malarkey was never for me.

‘I’m not cut out for being a mum,’ I would say in the early days. This self-defeating self-talk only made things worse. After my first son was born, I kept waiting for life to go back to normal and it took about three years and having a second baby before I realised that this was normality now and we were never going back. And this new normal involved a lot of sausages. Over the years I’ve found my peace with many of the more boring and repetitive tasks of motherhood. I have hung up the washing mindfully, peg after peg, slowly and carefully. I have folded the clothes, concentrating on just folding. At times, too, I have been able to pay other women to clean and iron – God bless them all.

But, today, here we are again, the sausages browning, a tray of roast spuds in the oven, a tray of beetroot and cauliflower, too. I open the oven to check they’re nearly done, my glasses steam up and the earthy, sweet scents of the beetroot froth out. ‘Honestly, I deserve a mother of the year award for this dinner,’ I say to the cats. But instead of presenting myself with a bouquet of flowers, I pick up my stemless glass of red wine and let a large mouthful tumble down my throat. One large glass of wine on an empty stomach is my go-to at this time of day, taking the edge off my maternal resentment.

Cooking dinner for the family has been my job and, after two decades of it, the only thing that amuses me is following the #everyfuckingnight hashtag on social media. But let’s not forget the excuse my boredom and dinner fatigue give me to pour that large glass of wine and numb my racing brain with it as I cook. And the second glass too. And maybe a cheeky third as we eat dinner.

In motherhood, as I tell every new mother, it’s the first twenty years that are the hardest.

PS Yes, we really do eat kangaroo sausages in Australia, and crocodile ones too. Here’s a recipe for kangaroo sausage rolls from one of the companies which mades kangaroo sausages.

Quit Lit Books I Love

Click here to visit my article about all the quit lit books I have found helpful on my alcohol free journey.

Read more about my quit lit book ‘Going Under’ here, it’s a great sobriety book for women, if I do say so myself.

And whilst it’s hard to find genuine wild swimming, London does have some spots that can feel wild, even close to the city centre.

Who am I? My name is Seana Smith, I’m a Scot now living in Australia and, on visits back to the UK, I love to find new places to swim. This article starts with a list of the places I have been to already, and where I suggest you start, followed by a list of all the swimming spots I plan to explore on my next visits to London.

Outdoor Swimming In London

Hampstead Heath Swimming Ponds

There are three natural swimming ponds at Hampstead Heath: The Kenwood Ladies Pond, The Highgate Men’s Pond and the Hampstead Mixed Pond. All of these ponds are completely natural, with deep water, surrounded by trees and plants.

My daughter and I met a friend at the Ladies Pond when we visited London and spent a really relaxing few hours there, swimming, lying on the meadow under a shady tree and nattering joyfully.

The Kenwood Ladies Pond and The Highgate Men’s Pond are open all year round. Hampstead Mixed Pond is open only over the summer months, from mid-April to October. There is a fee to enter each pond and at some times of the day and season, tickets need to be pre-booked. Check the website for all the details.

The opening hours vary by the season, so do check on the website for current opening hours, click here.

On warm days in summer, these pools are very busy and you are best to book ahead, or face very long queues. In winter, the temperature of the water in the ponds is very low, this makes for very serious cold water swimming, so do be careful. Lifeguards are on duty.

Address: All three ponds are easily accessed from Millfield Lane, Hampstead Heath.

Website: https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/green-spaces/hampstead-heath/activities-at-hampstead-heath/swimming-at-hampstead-heath

Parliament Hill Lido

This 60 metre long pool is open every day of the year and is not heated. It can be very busy – and full – in summer. Hardy winter swimmers enjoy it for its cold temperatures, and can then warm up in the on-site sauna.

I loved this pool for its unusual length and for its sparkling beauty. The pool is lined with dimpled stainless steel which gleams on a sunny day. Just gorgeous!

The cafe at the pool served up a warming bowl of de luxe porridge and a very good coffee. Just what I needed after a chilly April swim.

Parliament Hill Lido was opened in 1938, the most recent renovations added the stainless steel pool liner which is such a feature of this pool.

Address: Parliament Hill Lido, Gordon House Road, London, NW5 1LT

Website: https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/green-spaces/hampstead-heath/where-to-go-at-hampstead-heath/parliament-hill-lido

Serpentine Lido

The marked off swimming area in the Serpentine in Hyde Park is open to the public in spring and summer, from mid-May at weekends and then daily between June and mid-September from 10am to 6pm. You can book and pay online via the website. That is highly recommended for warm days. There are sessions from 10am – 1.30pm and from 2.30pm to 6pm. Lifeguards are on duty.

There is a members-only swimming club which can use the swimming area between 5.30am and 9.30am every day of the year, but it’s strictly members only. I found this out when I arrived at 7am one morning with my cossies and a towel. I nearly cried! Should have taken my own advice and checked all the details before setting off.

Address: Hyde Park, London W2 2UH

Website: https://www.royalparks.org.uk/visit/parks/hyde-park/serpentine-lido

London Fields Lido

This 50 metre pool is open all year round and is heated. Marvellous! There is a cafe and plenty of space to sunbathe and natter.

Address: London Fields West Side, Hackney, London E8 3EU

Website: better.org.uk/london-fields-lido

Tooting Bec Lido

Famous for being the largest freshwater outdoor pool in the UK, Tooting Bec Lido is an exhausting 91 metres long. This pool and the kids’ paddling pool are not heated and can be very chilly. There is a cafe but you can also bring in your own picnic.

The pool is open to the public over the spring and summer, but is only open to members in the winter.

Booking ahead is recommended.

Charlton Lido & Lifestyle Club

A South London favourite, Charlton Lido boasts an outdoor heated 50 metre pool, plus cafe and sun bathing area. Check the website for information about opening times and the many other facilities.

Address: Hornfair Park, Shooters Hill Road, Greenwich, London SE18 4LX

Website: https://www.better.org.uk/leisure-centre/london/greenwich/charlton-lido

Brockwell Lido

Brockwell Lido boasts an unheated 50 metre outdoor pool, and has a poolside sauna during winter. The pool buildings are built in the art deco style. There is a cafe on site and fitness facilities.

Address: Dulwich Road, Herne Hill, London SE24 0PA

Website: fusion-lifestyle.com/brockwell-lido and the Users Group website is: https://www.brockwelllido.com/

London Royal Docks + Canary Wharf

Swimming in the heart of London’s financial district is very urban-scenic! These two open water swimming venues have lifeguards and the water is tested regularly. The docks are close to the Thames but are not part of it. Tow floats are essential.

Address: Dock Road, Royal Docks London, E16 1AH

Website: https://loveopenwater.co.uk/swimming-london-royal-docks and https://loveopenwater.co.uk/canary-wharf/

Best Indoor Pools in London

London Aquatics Centre

Built for the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this swimming complex has two 50 metre pools plus a 25 metre diving pool. There are gyms and other fitness facilities too.

Address: Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, London E20 2ZQ

Website: https://londonaquaticscentre.org/

Marshall Street Leisure Centre & Spa

Soho’s premier swimming pool is inside a most beautiful 1930s building and has a glorious semi-circular roof and the original marble floor. The pool is 30 metres long and there are all sorts of fitness facilities in the complex.

Address: 15 Marshall Street, Soho, London W1F 7EL

Website: https://www.everyoneactive.com/centre/marshall-street-leisure-centre-spa

Ironmonger Row Baths

Originally a wash house, Ironmonger Row Baths had pools added in the 1930s and now is home to a 30.5 metre pool and a learn-to-swim pool. The original Turkish baths are now part of a modern and rather luxurious spa.

Address: 1 Norman St, Islington, London EC1V 3AA

Website: https://www.better.org.uk/leisure-centre/london/islington/ironmonger-row-baths

And there’s also:

The Oasis Sports Centre with indoor and outdoor 27 and 25 metre pools, near Covent Garden.

Website: https://www.better.org.uk/leisure-centre/london/camden/oasis-sports-centre

Crystal Palace National Sports Centre has a 50 metre pool, a 25 metre pool and a teaching pool.

Website: https://www.better.org.uk/leisure-centre/london/crystal-palace/crystal-palace-national-sports-centre

Books About Where To Swim In London

Outdoor Swimming London: 140 best wild swims and lidos within easy reach of the capital, by John Weller and Lola Culsan, Wild Things Publishing, 2022

Swimming London: London’s 50 greatest swimming spots, by Jenny Landreth, Aurum Publishing, 2014

Swimmers, click here to find lots of other articles about where to swim.

Find all my Australian swimming stories here.

The Camino de Santiago had been on my radar for years, since 2019 when some friends of mine from here in Australia had walked the first section of it, from France into Spain. These pals had since walked most of the Camino Frances route, as well as the Camino Portugues from Oporto. Now, finally, I became an empty nester and was able to join them as they completed the walk. Hooray!

The last 200 km of the Camino de Santiago stretches from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. In this article you’ll find information, advice and photos from our walking holiday. Myself and three friends did this section of the Camino over nine days of walking at the very start of April.

April is a terrific time of year to do this part of the walk as it is not very busy with other walkers, and the weather is not too hot; in fact, it was pretty chilly when we set off each morning. Bring a woolly hat!

PS I quickly learned that there are many, many pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela. The route we were walking is often called the Camino Frances and is the most busy and best known route. I’ll use that term interchangeably with Camino de Santiago.

Quick Camino Q+A

Getting To Ponferrada

From Australia, I flew first to London and then to Madrid where two friends had arrived direct from Sydney. Our fourth friend flew into Barcelona and explored for a few days. We all took trains to meet in Leon in northern Spain, and then hopped onto a local train, arriving in the city of Ponferrada.

On our first evening we caught a taxi to the charming small village called Molinsecca, this would have been a pretty place to stay.

We stayed the night at the AC Marriot Ponferrada, which was fairly nondescript but in a handy part of town for starting our walk next day.

Day 1. Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Day 1 of walking, Ponferrada to Villafrance del Bierzo – which is the most delightful town. We did 23 km or so, maybe 25 km, through countryside mainly, also some suburbs. We saw so many lovely houses, some modern and many old. The last 10 km or so is through vineyards (very dormant at the moment). Posada Hotel in the main square is terrific. The bath very welcome. Good dinner of trout at a local restaurant off the square. Feel I can barely move my legs now. Paralysed!  Hard to imagine walking a single step tomorrow. Highlights; coffees after about 10 km, the knitting young American pilgrim, and the bucket lights at the place we had lunch – a grand old building.

In Villafranca del Bierzo we stayed at the Posada Plaza Mayor.

Day 2 Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

Day 2 I was awake before 6am but had slept all night. Today we walked from Villafrance del Bierzo to Las Herrieras, it was about 20 km and mostly alongside a river which was broad and deep and rushing, clean water and a beautiful bottom that almost looked as if it has been laid out with bcolourful flat stones.

Most of the day’s walking was on a path that ran alongside a small road, sometimes we had to walk on the road. Coffee after 10 km and lunch at about 15 km (I have got a blister and started treating at lunch time.). I could barely walk, again, when we finally arrived at the beautiful building where we were to stay. This area is positively Alpine, field of cows with bells, so sweet. Terrific dinner: kale and bean soup, veggie cannelloni and rice pudding, plus bread. Just what we need for walking!

In Las Herrerias we stayed at the Paraiso Del Bierzo.

Day 3 Las Herrerias to Triacastela

Day 3. This was the walk mas dur, as someone had said to us, the hardest day. They were correct. It was 8km uphill to O Cebreiro. The path was a damp and leafy, through mossy forests all misty with rain, quite rocky and rough at times, some parts were very steep at the side. I was listening to a podcast on The Last Of The Vikings and was summoning my inner viking, just trudging on slowly. We stopped and sheltered at a small cafe about 2 km before O Cebreiro and then trudged on through the rain.

I felt done in and too damp, so I caught a taxi (35 euros!!) the 20 km to Triacastela. I might not have if it had not been raining. Others walked on. I went to pharmacy and got washing done and dried and did some work that needed done. All emails replied to – yes!! And a lie down then… legs are sore, blister looks ok, not too sore, but muscles are. Days should be sunny now.

Had dinner at the hotel restaurant, paella and wonderful cheese and honey. In Triacastela we stayed at the Hotel Complexo Xacobeo.

Day 4 Triacastela to Sarria

Day 4. The mornings have their own rhythm now. With a spare bed in my room, it’s easy to spread the suitcase out and to pack and repack it. Downstairs by 8am and we eat brekky and then start to walk around 9am. It was a clear day and we walked from Triacastela to Sarria, just a mere 18 km or so, the vast majority on paths by fields and through forests. Lots of steep downhills.

The countryside is deep green and lush, lots of trees not yet getting going. We saw gambolling calves and lots of mini billy goats gruff close to Sarria. Very fat cows, very lush fields. Lots of dilapidated buildings in the villages though, and not many villages, just some tiny ones. We did find an old building with a cafe where we had coffees and croissants just before  midday and then walked again and had some lunch on outskirts of Sarria. Lots of walking and my calves were itching and ankles in pain. Used bamboo calf sleeves to combat the small signs of vasculitis (common problem for walkers, the compression calf sleeves fixed it.). 

In Sarria we stayed at the Hotel Alfonso where we also had a large and healthy dinner.

Day 5 Sarria to Portomarin

Day 5. We walked 23 km today – a long way with a big climb up and what felt like a shorter way down but evidently was not. It was cool and dark grey and very misty when we left Sarria, walking over the bridge across the river by the hotel and starting the uphill climb. There were lots and lots of other walkers including some school groups and some big coach loads of walkers from Ireland. This was such a change from the past few days where the path has been pretty quiet. But Sarria is where lots of people start, just walking the final 115 km of the Camino de Santiago.

Most of the walking was through woodland and past fields and through farms and tiny hamlets, all noticeably more set out for tourists here. We had three stops, coffee and lunch and arvo tea. I changed boots at lunch and had a blister. By afternoon tea time the skin was worn away and I changed to Birkenstocks for the final 4 km, which felt endless. We saw lovely sleek fat cows and some horses and some enormous hound dogs too, plus lots of decrepit buildings. Some eateries are very flash, quite different to the places we’ve seen before.

At Pousada de Portomarin, a BATH… thanks goodness. We walked 9am to 5pm. I kept up mostly but slowed down at the end. Hard last walk up the hill to the hotel. Poor legs. Used black calf sleeves again and legs got no worse. 

Sunny and warm after the mist burned off, needed hat and sunscreen. Very rural and arable, lush fields, daisies, the foliage starting to come out on oak trees, wee birds tweeting sweetly. Divine.

In Portomarin we stayed at the Pousada Portomarin.  

Day 6 Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Day 6. Today was Portomarin to Palas de Res, where we stayed at the very cool Hotel Trina. We walked about 18 km then jumped in a taxi for the last few kilometres. The morning was hard, very steep. We saw many, many other walkers, loads of school kids, some very noisy indeed. It got pretty hot too.

After both coffee and lunch, I totally felt I could never walk again – frozen up… glad to get a cab and to chill at that lovely modern-looking hotel with blond wood everywhere. We ate just down the road at a little local restaurant, sitting outside in warm sunshine. Lovely. I was so relieved to bail our and catch that taxi. It was so hard walking the last bits, my legs were boiling hot, feeling full of blood even with the compression stockings. 

In Palas de Rei we stayed at the Hotel Trina.

Day 7 Palas de Rei to Aruza

Day 7. Today was a much more gentle undulating walk with just a couple of steep sections, overall very pleasant and mainly good paths through fields and woods, the odd stream to cross on stone bridges, delightful and much easier than the past couple of days.

We stopped for coffee after about 6 km and then for lunch at 15 km and did another 5 km before jumping into a taxi again for just the last few km. The path is much, much busier now but only one lot of young kids with noisy music.

We are at the Arzua Hotel in Arzua on a warm afternoon, trees bursting into bloom, did not wear beanie first thing in morning even. This hotel has a bath – what a joy.

At lunch saw I have a blood blister on little right toe but luckily not sore. Did a couple of km in Birkenstocks. Left food blister is still sore but had nurofen at brekkie and lunch and have not been as affected as before. And it’s not even that bad anyway. Fab restaurant just up from hotel – easy!!

In Aruza we stayed at the Hotel Aruza.

Day 8 Aruza to O’Predrozo

Day 8. Maybe I am getting used to the walking. A couple of times today when I got up from a chair I could walk easily without feeling I had to crank every joint into gear. Finally!!! Our morning coffee was a joy, sitting outside with fresh orange juices, coffees and pastries. Heaven. Nice stop for lunch too.

The path is through lots of beautiful farm land and through forests, including lots of eucalypts which is a surprise.

in O’Predrozo we stayed at Pension Maribel.

Day 9 O’Predrozo to Santiago de Compostela

Day 9. We are here, and more specifically I am sitting in an old building which is now a laundry whilst clothes tumble dry. Whew!!

Pension Maribel had no breakfast so we got up and met at 7.30am and then walked to the cafe just up the road for coffee, orange juice and croissant. The fresh OJ here is just divine, a lifesaver when we stop for coffee mid-morning but also a good heart starter today.

There were many ups and downs and mostly walking on gravelly paths through more gum tree plantations, and by farms. We stopped for morning coffee and then a rest and fizzy water just before the outskirts of Santiago, after the airport. Had lunch on the way into town at a nice bar but ordered a terrible white bread sandwich – grim.

The walk into the old town was divine, old buildings, tall solid streets, lots of buildings with plants growing in them, cobbled streets and narrow, some smart restaurants and some bedraggled areas too. And then the square – huge, the cathedral – massive!! Quite something, and busy too.

In Santiago de Compostela we stayed at the magnificent Parador de Santiago which I cannot recommend highly enough. It was the most expensive hotel we stayed at, well worth the cost for its magnificent historic buildings and the well-earned luxury. The Parador used to be a hospital for pilgrims. There’s a lot of interesting information to read about the hotel and the pilgrims who were cared for here.

We ate at the Parador, in the most gorgeous dining room, the old stables which has a vaulted ceiling roof. Very posh, with haute cuisine and black aproned attentive waiters to match.

A day in Santiago de Compostela

A day of not walking, what a shock to the system. I’ve only done 6000 steps by 6pm. Weird… I did expect my legs might just scissor around but not so.

The Parador breakfast is included in the price and was excellent. I am totally into this luxury and antique glamour. Marvellous!!

It has been raining all day, so have got wet and felt chilly outdoors. We four later went to have a good look at the excellent museum of Saint John and the history of the pilgrimage, fascinating and well done. Then we walked over to the covered market and had some lunch sitting under an awning. Last natters, it’s going to be a shock not walking and not being with my friends.

Wandered back via chocolate shop. Nice to have downtime. I would love to walk more (after a rest) and am overcome with a sudden urge to walk to Finisterre but will have to wait for the next camino for that.

Useful Books + Apps

The book which my friend used to plan the section of walk that we did was this one.

A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino De Santiago: Camino Frances St. Jean Pied De Port – Santiago by John Brierley. Each day we would read about the walk ahead of us and plan where to stop. The images showing how far we would walk up and down – the elevations – were useful, if a bit daunting.

The most useful app was Camino Ninja, which I do recommend.

This final 200 km of the Camino de Santiago was my first ever proper walking holiday. Not the last. There are many, many pilgrimages which all lead to Santiago de Compostela and I would love to do more of them. Two of my friends have done the Camino Portuguese, inland from Porto to Santiago and they highly recommend that.

I hope this story about our walking holiday might help you plan your own!

Happy walking.

The Beverley Whitfield Ocean Pool, best known as Shellharbour swimming pool, is a wonderful outdoor ocean pool, situated right by the beach at lovely Shellharbour. It’s a wonderful place to swim. Here are some photos of this delightful pool.

And here are my kids leaping in, full of joy.

In my memoir Going Under, I have a section involving a swim at Shellharbour swimming pool. It’s in the fourth chapter. Here is is in an extract for you.

April – Extract From Going Under

Shellharbour, New South Wales

April arrives and with it two weeks of school holidays and the chocolate feast that is Easter. We book a holiday house for a few days in Shellharbour, just south of Wollongong where Ben, our second son, lives. When term ends, we drive east towards the ocean.

At Shellharbour stately pelicans turn their heads to watch us as we walk along the path from the house to the beach, their old man throats quivering below their long pink beaks. As one, the group of these huge sea birds stretch out their black wings and rise up.

Alice and Tom and I are walking along past the harbour towards the open-air saltwater pool. Shellharbour once was a busy fishing town, its harbour walls a safe anchorage in the easterlies. Now it is a tourist destination and we pass families spread out on the small beach, hear the yells of children playing in the playground behind.

We see the pool ahead, built into the rock shelf by the beach and looking much as it did when built in 1894. Free to the public and washed by the waves, this is one of the many ocean pools that dot the long coast of New South Wales. This pool is 50 metres long, and painted blue inside with lane markings, with a shallow children’s splash pool under shade at one end. The kids run off for an ice cream but I head straight to the pool, step out of my clothes, pull on my cap and goggles and take a deep breath. It has been too long between sea swims and I am out of practice at this. Just get straight in, do not delay, do not think about it, just dive.

Arms fly up, legs push out and I stretch away, feel my body hang in the air for a brief moment then crash through the surface, that jolt of movement arrested, into clear cold blue water. The salty tang of ocean air flows deep into my lungs, then slow bubbles tickle my ear as I pull through the water, finding the rhythm, three pulls, one breath. The release of it, body horizontal, arms sweeping through the air, then pulling strong through the blue of the water. Moving forward, earth and gravity gone, liminal I lie between air and water, legs fluttering behind, released from their daily major efforts on the hard earth, working now only to balance the main effort of arms and shoulders.

Back in the sea, back in the sea. What the hell were we thinking when we moved four hours inland? Too, too far from salt water.

Much as I love actual ocean swimming, diving under the waves to get out the back into the swell, then swimming along parallel to the seashore, I only ever do that in a group of swimmers. A pod. Lots of people swim in the ocean alone but  I am too chicken. I swim with groups of friends and with the largest swimming club in the world, the Bold and Beautiful at Manly.

In the ocean pools of the New South Wales coast I am washed by breaking waves, might see tiny fish darting, look at anemones and shells; I feel as if I am part of the ocean, the chill and the sting of it, the breathlessness and the wash and the movement, but I am also safe. Here at Shellharbour this bright blue sea pool is doing the job. I rest at one end, look around in awe then set off for my next lap.

Shellharbour Swimming Pool Map

Plan a visit to Shellharbour Swimming Pool aka Beverley Whitfield Ocean Pool

Beverley Whitfield Ocean Pool is located at 19 Hockey Esplanade, Shellharbour NSW 2529

Parking: there is street parking along Hockey Esplanade and a small car park at the end near the harbour.

The main pool is approximately 50 metres long, and the kids pool is much smaller, but is shaded. During summer there are life guards on duty for significant parts of the day, especially during school holidays. Kids will love the extensive playground which is close by on the foreshore.

For me, the bright blue paint in this concrete pool is what makes it stand out. It looks beautiful, even though it is made of concrete and much more manmade than many of my more wild ocean pool favourites.

You will find plenty of cafes, ice cream shops and other delights in the village of Shellharbour, within a short walk of the pool.

History of the Beverley Whitfield Ocean Pool

This site by the beach has had a swimming pool since 1895. The original pool had separate times for women and men to swim. During the early 1900s, the area was known as the “sanatorium of the south.”

The pool was renamed in 1994 to honor Beverley Whitfield, who was born in Shellharbour in 1954. She trained at this pool as a member of the Shellharbour Swimming Club. Whitfield won Olympic gold in breaststroke at the 1972 Munich Olympics and was known for her powerful kick technique. After retirement, she worked as a youth worker in the Shellharbour and Wollongong areas until she passed away in 1996 at age 42.

The pool is cleaned out every Tuesday and is closed when cleaning takes place. Check out this video from the Shellharbour City Council about the cleaning of the pool.

Find heaps more articles about great swimming pools here.

Shellharbour is a very pretty little spot, our family really enjoyed a quiet weekend away here and can highly recommend it.

Find lots more information on the Visit Shellharbour website here.

Meet a debut author juggling kids, writing, Instagram and success. Leesa Ronald’s debut romcom Special Delivery was published in December 2024 and has already been reprinted. Success! Leesa has also signed a further two-book deal with Allen & Unwin, her second romcom will hit bookshelves towards the end of 2025.

00:00 Introduction

01:10 Jane asks Leesa about her lived experience as an author. Leesa explains how she was fortunate to land up with Allen & Unwin and the rhythm of her interactions with her publisher.

04:00 Interactions with various people at the publishers and getting used to response times.

05:30 Finding the publisher, ASA Literary Speed Dating and getting a contact at A&U.

07:45 Knowing your genre. Leesa started reading romcoms about 18 months before she started writing one. Writing the book in the midst of being pregnant and having third child.

09:21 Understanding the contract, where Leesa got advice.

10:20 The titles changes and draft front cover.

13:00 Deciding to just write and let the publishers look after the publishing. Feedback on the book so far, reviews etc

14:15 Leesa on her social media strategy and advice she got.

17.20 Writing the book, first the plot of the book, and then how Leesa got started. Not much of a plotter in first book but currently writing second book and doing more plotting.

20:20 With job and three kids, Leesa tends to write at night, some early morning.

21:30 Special Delivery did not have a huge amount of editing to be done.

22:20 Leesa didn’t do writing courses before she wrote the first book, but has always worked as a writer of magazine and now corporate communications. Trying to write the type of book I wanted to read. Did do a 6-week course before book 2, what was useful in that.

25:20 Meeting other writers and the romcom community. The Romance Writers of Australian Conferenece.

28: 10 The audiobook production process.

29:00 Thanks and farewells

Leesa Ronald’s website is here.

Leesa Ronald on Instagram here.

Authors & Websites mentioned

Mhairi McFarlane

Emily Henry

Kelly Rimmer

Romance Writers of Australia

Jane Curry Links

• Jane Curry Advisory: www.janecurryadvisory.com
• Ventura Press: www.venturapress.com.au
• www.instagram.com/venturapress__
• www.instagram.com/janecurry1

Seana Smith Links

• Seana Smith website: www.seanasmith.com
• www.instagram.com/seanasmith
• https://www.facebook.com/groups/whatdidyoureadtoday/

Find more podcasts here.