Senegal News

NEW: The Senegal Experience Brochure 2012/13

Press Office - The Senegal Experience — Mon, 11 Jun 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Independent tour operator, The Senegal Experience launches its November 2012 – October 2013 brochure this month. The collection is once again combined in the same brochure with sister company The Gambia Experience due to increasing interest in multi-centre holidays.
Highlights of the new brochure include:

Lamantin Beach Hotel, Saly
Offering a private white sand beach, marina, spa, and renowned for its gourmet cuisine, the 5* Lamantin Beach Hotel in Senegal has long been considered the most luxurious hotel in Saly. Closed for major refurbishment last year, the hotel re-opened at the end of 2011 with a new Beach Club complete with à la carte restaurant, fitness centre, and floodlit tennis courts.

Senegal Tours from The Gambia
New for this winter is the chance to add a three, five or seven night private tour to Senegal to any hotel stay in The Gambia. There is a choice of tours taking in various sights including the Lompoul desert, the colonial city of Saint-Louis, the Pink Lake at Kayar, Bandia Nature Reserve, Dindéfélo waterfall, Dakar and Gorée Island.

This is the 25th Year Anniversary for The Gambia Experience, which has been providing holidays to The Gambia since 1987 and remains the country specialist. The Gambia Experience charters year-round flights from London Gatwick - Banjul with Monarch and offers the widest choice of accommodation, plus tours and cruises – many of which are exclusive to its programme.

Within its new brochure, The Gambia Experience announces how the Mandina Lodges at Makasutu – part of its Unique Collection – have been presented with The National Order of The Gambia, recognising their outstanding services to the country. The tour operator is also keen to add that since the brochure went to press, Ngala Lodge – as featured within its Luxury Collection – has received the Trip Advisor Award for Excellence. Also of note for The Gambia / Senegal:

Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project
The Gambia Experience is pleased to welcome back the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project into its Unique Collection as from Winter 2012/13. Established in 1979, this is Africa’s longest running project of this kind. Almost 100 chimpanzees are to be found on Baboon Islands, a group of three islets set within the River Gambia National Park, located approximately 270km inland from the coastal resorts.
Accommodation at the Project takes the form of four twin-bedded, eco-friendly safari tents set on elevated platforms high above the riverbank, offering captivating views across Baboon Islands.
As a working project with conservation as a first priority, the camp offers boat trips with expert guides as a way to view the chimpanzees in their natural habitat (as opposed to accessing the islands on foot).
Other wildlife may also be spotted such as Red Colobus and Green Vervet monkeys, Western baboons, hippos, crocodiles, as well as a vast array of birds. The Gambia Experience suggests combining a two or three night stay upriver at the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project with another property within its Unique Collection.

All-Inclusive Holidays
The all-inclusive hotel option in Senegal is the 4* Royal Decameron Baobab Resort, perfectly positioned between a white sand beach and the lagoon of La Somone.
Since being introduced in recent years, all-inclusive holidays in The Gambia have been well received, as demonstrated by the 4* Sheraton Gambia Hotel. As a result, The Gambia Experience has chosen to price two more of its hotels - the 4* Laico Atlantic Beach Hotel and 2* Palma Rima Hotel - on an all-inclusive basis within its new brochure (although B&B and HB options are still available at these two hotels). In addition to usual board choices a selection of hotels in The Gambia also offer a variety of ‘dining packages’.

Chris Packham Birdwatching Tours
BBC Springwatch presenter Chris Packham will once again lead his annual birdwatching tours for The Gambia Experience in February 2013. With a maximum of 17 places on the trips, there is ample opportunity to learn from Chris’ extensive knowledge of wildlife, as well as photography. The tours break down into two three-day itineraries (coastal / Makasutu Forest), available to book separately or together, with the supplement starting from £425 per person. Additional birdwatching tours, from £195 per person, can be booked throughout the winter with Gambian guide Malick Suso – Chris Packham’s ‘local’ guide of choice.

Sport Fishing in The Gambia
This winter new sport fishing boats will be based in The Gambia at Sitanunku Lodge - as featured in The Gambia Experience Unique Collection - on the North Bank of the River Gambia. The new boats will open up new offshore fishing opportunities, as well as river and coastal fishing with marlin, shark, sailfish, dorado, tuna and tarpon being just a few of the species available in the waters surrounding Dog Island. The Gambia Experience holidaymakers staying at other coastal hotels can also arrange day trips aboard the boats.

Sustainable Tourism
The Gambia Experience maintains its 5 star AITO Sustainable Tourism status and in the coming twelve months aims to raise £10,000 for its School Development Fund (in the last year it has raised over £8,000). During 2011, The Gambia Experience – in conjunction with sustainable tourism advisor and friend of The Gambia, Dick Sisman - introduced its Carbon Offset Stove Scheme, whereby for the cost of £20 a new environmentally-friendly stove can be donated to a Gambian family. The Gambia Experience is currently exploring new initiatives within resort to mark its 25th Year Anniversary.

Early Booking Offers
This winter (2012/13) 7 night holidays to The Gambia start from £549 per person; to Senegal from £918pp, both including flights (with inflight meals & 20kg and 46kg luggage allowance respectively) and transfers. The tour operator is offering a selection of Early Booking Offers for travel this winter, valid if booked by 31 July 2012. These include savings of up to £150pp in The Gambia and up to £200pp in Senegal. As part of its 25 years celebration, The Gambia Experience is also running a prize draw, whereby if a customer’s holiday is booked by 31 July, they are then entered into a draw to win their holiday for free.

For more information on holidays to The Gambia and Senegal, visit The Gambia Experience at www.gambia.co.uk or The Senegal Experience at www.senegal.co.uk Or call The Gambia Experience Reservations Department on 0845 330 2087 or The Senegal Experience Reservations Department on 0845 338 8706.

Three the magic number for winter sun

Derek James - Norwich Evening News — Sat, 18 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

If you are looking for some hot African sunshine where the welcome is as warm as the weather then how about considering three very different countries on and off the West Coast of Africa - Cape Verde, Senegal or The Gambia. DEREK JAMES reports.
Where to go for a winter holiday? You may be tired of the Canaries where the weather can be dodgy. You may think the Caribbean too expensive or the Far East too far. And other, closer to home, winter resorts such as parts of Egypt and Tunisia report low bookings for obvious reasons.But due south - roughly six hours flying time away - there are three fascinating countries with sweeping and stunning beaches waiting to be explored.
Each one has so much to offer. Each one is very different with its own rich history and culture. Each one will give you a good value holiday with a difference. One was a former Portuguese colony, the other French and the third British.
Cape Verde
Let’s start with the former Portuguese islands of Cape Verde. There was talk a few years of transforming these island just off the coast of West Africa into the next Canaries – thank goodness that hasn’t happened. This collection of ten islands each have their own appeal with varied landscapes, an eclectic cultural heritage and a variety of activities to suit all. The islands are an ideal winter sun destination and a great place to escape the crowds.
The leading tour operator is The Cape Verde Experience and commercial manager Paul Kenny says the flight is relatively short and the weather remains consistent throughout the year - between 24 and 29 degC. Beyond the beaches the islands offer great diversity in their landscapes and culture and if
you are visiting it makes sense to opt for a twincentre holiday or an island-hopping itinerary which can be tailor-made in any combination. Bookings to Cape Verde are stronger this winter, mainly due to the increase in flights from the UK and an improvement to the infrastructure and accommodation – namely the opening of the Melia Tortuga Beach & Sea resort on sale and improvements to a number of other properties.
The islands all offer something different – from beautiful clean beaches to soaring mountain landscapes and lush green valleys - go and see for yourself.
Senegal
The French love their former colony Senegal but why should they have it to themselves. This is a great country to visit - offering so much. The UK’s destination specialist, The Senegal Experience, offers a wide range of accommodation, with a select choice of luxury hotels and properties.
The Gambia’s larger French neighbour is a fantastic country to visit with its superb climate, great beaches and thriving culture plus, its three mighty rivers and wonderfully intricate coastal lagoons and waterways support a great wealth of wildlife including numerous bird species and mammals.
There’s also opportunity for visitors to spot larger animals such as rhino, giraffe and zebra within its protected wildlife reserves. Where to stay? One place I can recommend is the 5* Lamantin Beach Hotel located in the beach resort of Saly, about 80kms south of bustling Daker. This impressive hotel re-opened just before Christmas following a major refurbishment and now offers guests a wider choice of rooms along with a new beach club providing a la carte dining overlooking the sea.
With its own private beach and adjacent marina, the Lamantin provides a real “wow” factor.
The Gambia
One of the best value winter warmers is the former British colony The Gambia, the smallest country on the continent with one of the biggest hearts. Board the plane to Banjul and the chances are you will be sitting next to “repeaters” – people who travel to this country every year because they love everything about it - the people, the culture, the way of life. Some people go for the sun, others for the
bird life, some for the fishing at sea or on the rivers and there are those involved in various charity projects. Others have bought homes in the country. It is still the best value winter sunshine holiday around. In recent years some excellent smaller, upmarket yet affordable “boutique” hotels have been built away from the coastal strips. You tend to find many people tend to go back to the same place to stay because the staff have become friends. It is that kind of country. And you never know who you will bump into - on my last visit in January I met Teresa Elmassry who runs a busy restaurant and bar
with her husband called Yasmina’s the corner of the main road leading into the Senegambia “strip.” In a previous life she was Teresa Slater, formerly of North Walsham and then Lawson Road in Norwich, who worked at Mann Egerton, Sedgwick’s and the Co-op before heading off to work in Gambia. And it was there that she met Roberto, fell in love, settled down to get married, raise a family and run a thriving business. I’ll tell you more about Teresa in the Evening News soon but if you are visiting the country then pop in and say hello. So be warned. Visiting these countries can change your life. You may not want to come home.
Get Packing
 The Cape Verde Experience (0845 3302071, capeverde.co.uk) offers a wide variety of holidays with flight options to Sal and to Boa Vista from Gatwick. The company is offering seven night packages at the 4* Hotel Morabeza on Sal (capeverde.co.uk/ morabeza), a popular family-run hotel with good facilities on the edge of Santa Maria’s white sandy beach from £899pp travelling in May.
 The Senegal Experience (0845 3388706, senegal. co.uk) is offering half board packages including flights and transfers from £1,199pp for holidays in March. This price is based on two sharing a garden room at the Lamantin Beach and return flights to Daker via Brussels from Heathrow.
Call for more details of holidays to Senegal, including twin centre options combining a stay in the Gambia, plus tailor made tours and Rivers of West Africa cruise and stay opportunities.
 The Gambia Experience (0845 3302087, gambia. co.uk) has a complete range of places to stay from basic 2* hotels offering a real taste of Africa to intimate 5* luxury hotspots and from family fun
hotels to stunning river lodges. If you want to travel in March here are two offers at beachfront hotels. A week at the 3* Kombo Beach costs from £399pp based on two sharing a standard air conditioned room on b&b. A week at the 4* Sheraton Gambia Hotel, all-inclusive, from £699 based on two sharing a standard Baobab room with air con. These budget prices include Gatwick flights with a reduced allowance of 15 kilo and does not include airport transfers. A supplement of £15pp applies for transfers and £25pp for an increased 5 kilo luggage allowance.
Travel Tip: Airport Comfort
It is the perfect, peaceful start to a holiday. Airports are busy, bustling places but there are quiet corners where you can relax - the exclusive airport lounges are not just for those travelling first
class. You have probably noticed people popping in and out of them as you queue for an overpriced soggy roll and coffee. No.1 offers airport lounges at Stansted, Gatwick North and South and
Heathrow Terminal 3 which are great places to visit where you can recharge your batteries before boarding. Pay the entrance fee - it is cheaper to book in advance - and food and drink plus other
facilities are all there for you. Spa services and showers at some do cost extra.There are two lounges at Stansted, one serving all international gates (except Ryanair) and the other serving
Ryanair flights. They are open from 4am to 9pm and cost £15pp for up to three hours (children £7.50). The lounges are Gatwick North and South cost £20 (children £10) if booked in advance and
the flagship lounge at Heathrow is £30 (children £15).
 For more details and to book up visit www. no1traveller.com or you just turn up when you get to the airport.
Travel Tip: Getting To The Airport
The easiest way to get to the airport - Stansted, Heathrow and Gatwick - from Norwich and otherNorfolk towns is by National Express (08717 818181, nationalexpress.com) coach which travel 24
hours a day. They run an efficient and convenient service in and out of Norwich and the coaches stop at Thickthorn, Wymondham

Seven of the best boutique hotels in Africa

Rachel Dixon - The Guardian — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Set on white sands, wild wetlands, or at the heart of historic cities, these small hotels bring a touch of luxury to exotic locations.

Souimanga Lodge, Fimela, Senegal
Five luxurious waterside lodges stand in tropical gardens in the Saloum Delta national park, an area where two rivers meet the Atlantic. The covered dining terrace at the end of the lodge's private jetty is the perfect place to spot flamingos and pelicans.
• Seven nights' half-board from £1,289pp, including flights, 0845 338 8706, senegal.co.uk/souimanga

5 Of The Best

Richard Trillo - ABTA Magazine — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Sweet Senegal

Jane Labous - Real Travel Magazine — Wed, 31 Aug 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The first thing I notice as we take a taxi from Dakar airport into the city is the lack of car horns. There's an eerie silence; just the metallic hum of the driver's radio and the limpid stillness of the African dusk as we pull onto a roundabout (a roundabout!) and drive along the new highway that runs along the once dust road lining the corniche. It's a surprise, for the African roads I'm used to are a cacaphonous, often terrifying riot of noise and unruliness. Ten years ago I lived in Dakar for a year, and what was once a hair-raising ride through an array of decrepid cars, motorbikes, scooters, carts and pedestrians, with a background of indiscriminate hooting, is now, um, not unlike driving along a country road in Surrey...
“Hooting is as important as the brakes in Africa!” agrees the taxi driver cheerfully when I comment on this unusual phenomenon. “But Dakar drivers are learning...”
There are other things afoot in Dakar, West Africa's most developed, most forward-thinking city. It may still have its street hawkers and its chaos, but it's now a thoroughly modern metropolis with a vibrant cultural scene and, in a city always well-known for its beautiful, exceptionally chic women, fashionistas galore.
Indeed, the Senegalese are a truly beautiful race. Wandering, we find ourselves gasping at the mere sight of these long-legged, gleaming-skinned, finely-boned creatures crossing the road. Meanwhile, the city's distinctive yellow and blue minibuses which have formed Dakar’s intercity bus service for years still trundle along streets crowded with boys selling oranges from wheelbarrows; women roasting sweetcorn on oil stoves and outdoor hairdressers. It's just that all around, modern apartments are springing up and adverts celebrate mobile networks, sports centres (from wrestling to running, weight lifting and football, Senegalese men love to work out) – and cigarettes.
That said, don't under-estimate the African heat and the African, well, chaos – for it is still at large. One sight a day is generally enough, with plentiful stops for water, lunch, a cold Coke and snacks. For some reason the combination of 30-plus degree heat, a dusty city and lots of people will always have you craving the stillness of your hotel and a dip in the pool by mid-afternoon.
Most tourists visit Ile Gorée, an island just off the coast and reached by a ferry from the city port. Its colonial prettiness – all palms and pastel-painted houses - sits unsettlingly with its history. Gorée was West Africa’s main slave trading post during the 18th and 19th centuries and the Maison Des Esclaves is a preserved Dutch colonial house dating from 1776, where slaves were kept in chains on the ground floor while the owners lived in luxury upstairs. The door leading directly out to sea, where les esclaves were loaded onto boats and sent across the Atlantic to South America, is particularly disturbing.
But Dakar is a city that must be delved into to be appreciated. Some of the best musicians in Africa – guys like Cheikh Lo, Pape Diouf, Pape et Cheikh or Toure Kunde, who pack out places like the Royal Albert Hall in London - play impromptu gigs at hidden bars. You'll find the music swings until six in the morning as ebullient audiences dance Mbalax to the beat of the drum. Dakarites know how to party and if you want to see a good time in this city, it's best to join them.
So we do. Sunset is long gone when we head out to Just 4 U, easily missed if you're not looking for it, hidden behind a shabby wall in the Point E district. Inside, trendy Dakarites sip Coke and chat around plastic tables laid out beneath the palms. The band saunters on stage unhurriedly at about quarter past 11, the bass guitarist drawing on a cigarette. It's an inauspicious start but when they get going this place reverberates with colourful counter-rhythms and incredible improvisations, all a background to soulful Wolof lyrics.
When the drummer hoists his tama, the talking drum, onto his shoulder and taps out a rolling beat – question answer, question answer – the crowd claps and cheers and rocks. A man in a long purple boubou gets up and dances the Mbalax as the talking drum rolls on. It's a strange, beautiful dance, chaotic and graceful all at the same time, derived from a mixture of traditional Sabar Senegalese dancing and more modern styles. In the days to come we see it many times – the suggestive, comical swirl of the dancer's buttocks (known mystifyingly as the “electric fan”); the almost robotic movements of knees and legs to match the beat of the drum and the jelkati - a move in which the dancer moves his upper arms, bent at the elbows, in parallel motion from left to right to the beat of the drum.
It's not the only music we see in Dakar. When he's in town, Youssou N'Dour, he of the Neneh Cherry duet Seven Seconds and a big big star in West Africa, plays live on Saturday nights at his club Thiossane. His gigs draw heaving crowds of excited fans who dance until the early hours. We go, we dance, we cheer, we sweat to the fast-driving, interweaving sound of Youssou's traditional sabar drummers. It is one of the best concerts I've ever seen in my life.
The road north out of Dakar takes us through the former colonial trading town of Rufisque, where goats are traded on the dusty square amidst a hubbub of traffic and fruit stalls; hawkers sell everything from peanuts to papayas; lorries rumble past and carts pull passengers and goods. You can still gather the colonial elegance of the crumbling buildings lining the road; their roofs are caved in and their colours faded by the sun and the dirt, but they still tell the tale of what was once one of the most important French settlements in Senegal.
A few kilometres away is the Lac Rose, or pink lake, widely vaunted as one of the country's main tourist attractions. I have to admit that on both occasions I've visited, I've found it rather underwhelming – its water is ten times saltier than the sea but in the bright midday light it's more light beige than rose pink and the touts round the edge make the experience a little wearing.
Much more worthwhile is the village of Kayar, further up the coast, a working fishing village with thousands of colourful pirogues parked on the beach. You can see the entire process here, from the boats being launched to the catch being landed. Seabirds swirl overhead and children rush along the shore as we walk along the sand, being lightly chatted up by a couple of locals. We ignore them and watch a group of fishermen enlist the help of the whole family to haul in one of the boats. In the shade of a boat bow, two women and some toddlers pick tiny shrimps from the nets as a lady in colourful robes sways past with a bowl of fish on her head.
There's every reason to hire a four-by-four in Senegal; not only will it have all-important air-conditioning, but it will cope with the rough roads which often veer off from the main drag. Yamar, our extremely knowledgeable guide and driver, is not only a mine of information but a skilled off-road driver. He takes us into one of the country's hidden and largely unvisited regions, the Lompoul desert.
When I lived in Senegal I didn't even know this area existed. We spend almost four hours driving along the area's off-road “piste des charettes”, or horse cart tracks, past fields of bissap (hibiscus – known as “Senegal's Red Bull”, it makes a bright red, sweet soft drink that can be found everywhere from street corners to bars), cassava, beans and mounds of harvested peanuts. I am astonished to arrive at a vast, dune landscape that resembles a mini Sahara. One hour before sunset the dunes glow gold. We take our shoes off and sprint up and over them as the wind ruffles the sand into patterns. Gradually the sun becomes more intense, the place lights up, and I realise why there's really no better place to watch a sunset than in the desert, surrounded by golden light.
We stay at a the Camp du Desert nestled behind the dunes, where we're given a beautiful bedouin tents simply but perfectly equipped with a double bed, rush matting, pretty Moroccan lamps and a private outdoor shower and loo. The evening is a blur of stars and spirits. Over dinner the friendly bedouin chef offers us “fruit punch”. I have no idea what happened next, apart from a vague memory of lying on a mat outside pointing out the constellations. Yamar later assures me (with a wry grin) that he doesn't get tourists drunk on purpose. The next morning we both concluded (with slightly heavy heads) that it was the best possible night in the desert one could have.
St Louis is Senegal's second largest town; the first city in West Africa to be colonised by the French in 1659. By the 1790s it was a thriving trading town for goods and slaves and its colonial past is still very much evident in its architecture.
On St Louis island, the former European quarter, we find grand old four-storey buildings, pastel coloured, with wrought iron balconies and regal windows; quiet, dusty streets where goats stray and dogs lounge; gaggles of children in pink overalls chattering back from school. Most impressive perhaps is the rusting Pont Faidherbe bridge, designed by Gustav Eiffel in 1897. It links the mainland and island and is being refurbished in an extremely slow project (think years not months).
Further on, the Pont Mustapha bridge links the island to the coastal African quarter and affords a picturesque view of the pirogues along the river and the higgledy-piggledy roofs of the market stretching along the banks. Once across, you find the usual chaos of an African town, but it's down on the beach where it all happens. Kids play in the breaking waves as the women gut fish and boys play football. Further along, all the town's menfolk seem to be involved in a wrestling competition. A lithe, gleaming boy in orange pants beckons me over and motions for me to photograph him, mid-wrestle, proving that a poser is a poser, wherever you are in the world.
Further on, nets have been hung out to dry and the afternoon heat lessens as the sea mist from the incoming tide envelopes the beach. We stroll back, keen to avoid the fish heads and other miscellaeous items being washed in around our feet.
The best part about St Louis is arguably the Langue de Barbarie, a long stretch of sand straddled by the city which runs south separating the river from the sea. A pirogue shuttles us out to an island - immediately dubbed Crab Island because of the crowd of almost transparent crabs who come scuttling out to welcome us the minute our boat draws up at the jetty.
There's no-one here but us (you won't find many British tourists in Senegal – those who come are normally French, and even then, they tend to stay in the big resorts), the crabs and a barman. Oh, and a golden labrador who seems to like nothing better than to chase the crabs about. It's stunning.
Our hut, decorated in dark wood, colonial style, overlooks the river. On the other side of the narrow island is the sea, a strange wild beach where crabs pop up to check for intruders before waltzing sideways across the beach. That night dinner is served is a big Mauritanian tent – chicken, rice and to finish, Senegal's famous three tea ceremony. The ritual, in which three small glasses of tea which gradually get sweeter and sweeter are served to the visitor, is a traditional form of welcome in Senegal and other parts of West Africa.
“The first,” says the waiter huskily, handing us a small glass, “is “amere comme la mort.” Bitter as death. “La deuxieme est doux comme la vie” Soft as life. “Et la troisieme,” he pauses and winks, “est miel comme l'amour.” Sweet as love.
We head out the following morning and I close my eyes and trail my hand in the water as we zoom back across the river in the tranquil morning sunshine. It takes us three hours to drive back down the coast to our next stop – Toubab Dialao – a place where I used to come on the weekends as a student ten years ago. I'm interested to see how it has changed.
It has changed... Where once lay a small village with two tiny “campements” and a wild, uninhabited beach, there's now a burgeoning tourist centre. The banks of the beach, once inhabited only by prickly pear bushes and stray dogs, is now dotted with impressive holiday homes built by “toubabs” - tourists. The stray dogs still abound but nowadays there are a few more toubabs to hassle. We stay at Sobo Bade (www.espacesobobade.com), the clifftop artists' colony that has been there for years. It is entirely decorated with seashell mosaics and overlooks the ocean, deep blue at midday against the shimmering white of the shell walls and roofs. Today the sea is calm and warm. I notice the way the coast has eroded in the years since I visited. A rocky outcrop that used to jut far into the sea is now nearly entirely worn down, testament to the big waves and rips which often hit this untamed coast.
But it is hot in Toubab, too hot in the un-airconditioned rooms after a while (perhaps my student self was more tolerant...), and we leave the next day for the relative cool of the La Madrague hotel (www.hotel-madrague.com) on N'Gor beach in Dakar. It's my favourite place to stay; the suburb of N'Gor is a retreat from the city centre and at not much more than £40 for a clean, airy double, it's a real bargain.
The small island of N'Gor is reached via a five minute pirogue ride, costing CFA500 return. Tourists and locals bundle on – it's a favourite on the weekend amongst city folk. Over on the island the water is clear and perfect for snorkelling and there are numerous chilled-out beach restaurants serving all sorts of fresh, grilled fish and vegetables, the very best kind of Senegalese food.
Also worth a visit are the Iles de la Madeleine, a small crop of islands about four kilometres off the coast west of central Dakar. It's problematic getting here. After an incident last year in which a fisherman was shot out by the island's warden, local fishermen have largely stopped taking tourists. But thanks to a few negotiations from Yamar, a fisherman agrees to take us across. From the sea, the island looks like a great lump of rock. But chugging into a tiny peninsula we find deserted lagoons of sparkling turquoise water, one palm tree and a spread of grainy sand covered in bleached white sea urchin skeletons.
The ultimate desert island experience, it is only enhanced (well, in retrospect) by the fact that our esteemed captain manages to maroon our boat on the rocks as the tide goes out and the evening draws in. Much debate ensues as to how to solve the problem. Captain hugs us both. I, vaguely sun-stroked, burst into tears. Two urchin hunters appear on the horizon and we all pull it out. Two hours later we set sail.
But of course this is Senegal and never, in Senegal, do you quite know what's going to happen next. Sweet as love, I think they say...

NEW 2011/12 Brochure for The Senegal Experience

Press Office - The Senegal Experience — Mon, 13 Jun 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Independent tour operator, The Gambia Experience launches its November 2011 – October 2012 brochure this month. The brochure again incorporates sister company The Senegal Experience due to an increasing number of customers choosing multi-centre holidays (within either destination or across both). With 24 years experience, The Gambia Experience and The Senegal Experience offer the UK market the widest range of flight and hotel options to West Africa. The strong selling ‘Luxury Collection’ is presented for both The Gambia and Senegal, and includes exclusive hotels, and those complete with spa facilities. Highlights of the new brochure include:

Re-opening of 5* Lamantin Beach Hotel, Saly
Offering its own private white sand beach, marina, spa, and renowned for its gourmet cuisine, the 5* Lamantin Beach Hotel in Senegal has long been considered the most luxurious hotel in Saly.
This year (2011) the hotel has been closed for major refurbishment, but is due to re-open at the end of the year, when it will boast a new Beach Club complete with à la carte restaurant, fitness centre, and floodlit tennis courts.

New - The Unique Collection
The Gambia Experience ‘Unique Collection’ is new to the 2011/12 brochure. Featuring lodges and boutique hotels located away from the main tourist areas, the selected properties bring guests closer to the culture, people and wildlife of The Gambia. Sharing many characteristics of the Luxury Collection, but with a sense of relaxed indulgence, there are four properties to choose from: The Mandina Lodges at Makasutu; Sandele Eco Retreat in Kartong, and NEW for this season, Omakan Hotel in Sukuta and Sitanunku Lodge on the North Bank of the River Gambia.

New - Rivers of West Africa Cruise departing from Banjul
For the second winter running, The Gambia Experience / Senegal Experience - in collaboration with Variety Cruises - will offer the Rivers of West Africa cruise aboard the MY Pegasus. In addition to the nine-night itinerary departing from Dakar, including 2 nights at a Dakar hotel, there is now the option of a five-night cruise departing from Banjul. The cruise offers an alternative way to explore the region, all from the comfort of a 23-cabin mega yacht, complemented by optional inland excursions.

Chris Packham Birdwatching Tour
BBC Springwatch presenter Chris Packham will once again lead his annual birdwatching tour for The Gambia Experience in February 2012. With a maximum of 17 places on the trip, there is ample opportunity to learn from Chris’ extensive knowledge of wildlife, as well as photography. The tour breaks down into two three-day itineraries, available to book separately or together, with the supplement starting from £345 per person. Additional birdwatching tours can be booked with Gambian guide Malick Suso – Chris Packham’s ‘local’ guide of choice.

Additional All-Inclusive & Dining Options
The introduction of all-inclusive holidays continues to prove successful in The Gambia and Senegal with additional hotels now offering all-inclusive upgrade options, as well as a variety of dining packages. Also, from this winter - in addition to rooms and suites - the popular 3.5* Kombo Beach Hotel in Kotu will also offer ground floor studios, complete with kitchenette and living area.

Sustainable Tourism Update
The Gambia Experience is accredited with 5-star AITO (Association of Independent Tour Operators) Sustainable Tourism status - the highest level possible. The Gambia Experience’s own registered charity - the School Development Fund established in 1989 - continues to support school projects within The Gambia, and as of 2011, has also set up its own school partnership scheme twinning UK and Gambian schools.

Early Booking Offers – Book by 31 July 2011
A number of Early Booking Offers are available, valid for November 2011 – April 2012 holidays, booked by 31 July 2011. These include £150pp savings; free suite upgrades at Ngala Lodge; twin-centre savings and discounts on Tuesday London Gatwick – Banjul Premium Class flights. Please contact The Gambia Experience / Senegal Experience for full details and conditions.

This season, The Gambia Experience offers 7-night holidays from £525 per person (based on b&b); The Senegal Experience from £979 per person (based on half board). Unique / Luxury Collection holidays start from £898 per person (The Gambia, b&b) and £1184 (Senegal, half board) - all including flights & transfers. For more information, please call The Gambia Experience Reservations Dept on 0845 330 2087 or visit www.gambia.co.uk or call The Senegal Experience Reservations Dept on 0845 338 8706 or visit www.senegal.co.uk

Senegal win Africa Nations Cup qualifier

Thu, 31 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal now lead their group by five points after beating Cameroon 1-0 in Saturday’s Africa Nations Cup qualifier in Dakar. Demba Ba of West Ham scored the only goal in the game during stoppage time. Get all the scores and group results at http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/football/africa/8613171.stm

Rivers of West Africa cruise feature

Thu, 31 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Read about the Rivers of West Africa cruise and see some great images of what to expect. Free Press Travel writer Ellen Creager has written an account of her experience on the Rivers of West Africa cruise which starts in Dakar and travels through the Sine Saloum Delta and up the River Gambia.

In her article in the Detroit Free Press she talks about visiting Janjangbureh, a village school and Baboon Islands and there are some great shots of the ship and also some of the sights: the monkeys, birds, people and sunset over the river. If you’re interested in the cruise it’s well worth taking a look http://www.freep.com/article/20110320/FEATURES07/103200336/1004/NEWS02/Cruise-line-sends-yacht-up-Gambia-River-toward-home-Roots-hero?odyssey=nav%7Chead

The next cruise departs in December 2011 and will also operate in January, February and March 2012. For details of the itinerary and prices see http://www.senegal.co.uk/Hotel/19000398/51696/Rivers-of-West-Africa-Cruise.aspx?Booking=false

Branching out: an ecolodge in Senegal

Rose Skelton - The Guardian — Sat, 19 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

It was still early morning and I had dozed off while keeping vigil on our route. "I seem to have lost the way," said my friend. "I was following the track for a while but the salt flats seemed smoother to drive on…"

Looming around us were baobabs, the largely leafless, bulbous-trunked trees that locals say were stuck in the ground upside down by the devil. They looked as if they were made from elephant hide, grey and tremendous, casting their great fingers up to the sky. The headlights picked up a shape ahead – a donkey pulling a wooden cart, piled with salt and millet, which came to a stop beside us. "Excuse me," I said in French to the two passengers, wondering what language they spoke. "Can you tell us where the road is?" The young men politely pointed to the north. "Follow the telegraph wires," one said. "That'll show you the way."

We were travelling through the Siné Saloum region, south of Dakar, to the Siné-Saloum delta. The area is a jigsaw of salt flats and shallow waterways that eventually give way to the rolling waters of the Atlantic and while there is a road – a red gravel route that snakes inland from the coast and between several villages – it's not a very comfortable one.

Around three hours after we had set off from Dakar we turned off at a tiny junction where a sign pointed us to Collines de Niassam Lodge, an eco-lodge on the edge of the warm delta waters at Palmarin. The sun was just about up as we arrived and were greeted with coffee and freshly baked bread. Just to remind myself I was in the tropics, I washed them down with a glass of baobab juice made from the seed pods of the tree: cream in colour, strangely grainy and supposedly with powerful stomach-settling properties.

The baobab trees were to be our home for the next few days. While tree hotels might be popular in the east of the continent, out here in the wild west, they are something of a rarity. This is Senegal's first and so far only tree-hotel – a handful of beautifully crafted wood cabins perched in the wide branches of the baobab trees. Almost everything inside the rooms has been made in the local area.

West Africa has long been popular with backpackers who travel around the region through Mali, Ghana and Burkina Faso in rickety bush-taxis, sleep in fleapit hostels and revel in the fact that this is tough, proper travelling. More recently, however, tourists have made their way tentatively to Dakar, perched on the western tip of the continent, for its thriving music scene, which has produced musicians such as Youssou N'Dour and Baaba Maal. As east and southern Africa have traditionally attracted the wealthier tourists, lured by the big game and sparkling Indian Ocean coastline, west Africa was left with a lot of bad PR, not helped by civil wars.

But what goes on in countries hundreds or thousands of miles to the north or south should not put people off Senegal's charms. Not only is its culture thriving and quite unlike anywhere else in Africa, some interesting small hotels are opening up. The Collines de Niassam was built by a French couple eight years ago. Its electricity comes from solar panels and almost all its food is grown in the hotel garden or supplied locally. We soon discovered the food is exceptional – local fish known as capitaine cooked with bissap (hibiscus flower) was my favourite – prepared by a laughing storm of a woman who, if asked nicely, would divulge her culinary secrets.

But the choice of where to sleep posed a problem. In one of the round houses on stilts perched above the shallow, lapping waters of the delta? Or high up in the branches of these magical baobab trees? When I saw that the treehouse bathroom was encased in a wooden cabin around the trunk of the tree – you take a shower snuggled up against the baobab – my mind was made up. The stairs leading to the bedroom wind up its trunk, past the second-floor "living room" – a hammock and breakfast table mid-way up the branches – and to the room cradled at the top of the branches, with a four-poster bed.

We soon settled into a chilled out lifestyle for a few days. It is easy to do nothing – the silence that hangs over the delta can pleasantly stupefy a visitor after the hectic pace of Dakar – but there is a range of things to do in the area. We were invited to watch a traditional wrestling match in a nearby village, where the whole community gathers and, with drums and song, cheers on the young men, and offered the more indulgent option of a flight in a microlight plane above the salt planes to see the salt wells sitting like coloured inkpots across the land.

But we opted for kayaking in the mangrove lagoons with a local guide, Pierre. We paddled through the clear narrow waterways before arriving at an island with pristine white sand. We pulled our kayaks ashore and Pierre picked oysters from the mangrove roots for us to roast on a fire and eat, admiring the setting sun. A monkey cackled at us from the high branches of a baobab tree. For the wild west, things seemed very easy and gentle from where I was sitting.

• A lagoon hut or a baobab tree house at Collines de Niassam Lodge (niassam.com) costs €90pp per night, half-board. The Senegal Experience (0845 338 8706, senegal.co.uk) has seven nights' half-board at the lodge from £1,149pp, based on two sharing, including Heathrow-Dakar flights and airport transfers

Birdwatching in Senegal

Ron Toft - The Travel Editor — Tue, 01 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT

After three days' birdwatching with ace guide Malick Suso in The Gambia, I crossed the Gambia River heading for neighbouring Senegal.

As soon as we docked, my driver efficiently negotiated his way through the crowded streets of the bustling port community of Barra. Before long we were out in the countryside. The border crossing, south of Karang, was heaving with people - some negotiating their way across the frontier and some just plying their trade. My driver took my passport and disappeared into a nondescript building. Shortly after he appeared at the doorway and beckoned me to follow him. Had I done something wrong? Was there a problem with my paperwork? No, I simply had to be there in person while the formalities were conducted. Finally, we were on our way.

After what must have been an hour or so, I arrived at my destination: Hotel Keur Saloum in Toubakouta within the 180,000- hectare Sine Saloum Delta. Later that day I met my birdwatching guide, Carlos, who admitted his English wasn't as good as his French and Spanish.

Senegal is primarily a French-speaking country, and as I don't speak more than a few words of this language, I was always struggling to make myself understood with the catering and bar staff in the hotel (a point to remember if you are planning a trip there yourself).

Keen not to waste any time (I had less than three days in Senegal), I immediately jumped at the chance of a late afternoon boat trip along the local bolongs (creeks). Hotel Keur Saloum is beautifully situated on the edge of one such bolong and has its own jetty. For the next two and a half hours, we powered along, stopping whenever Carlos spotted something interesting.

Among the many birds we spotted on the wing or lurking in waterside vegetation were ospreys, black kites (these are very common in the area), western reef herons, pied and blue-breasted kingfishers, Senegal parrots and yellow-crowned gonolek. The highlight of the boat trip was witnessing hundreds of mainly cattle egrets and western reef herons flying in to roost on a tiny island. Among the birds were also a few long-tailed cormorants and pink-backed pelicans. The noise was overwhelming and a fishy smell pervaded the air, but I wouldn't have missed the experience for anything.

During the next couple of days, Carlos took me to a variety of places off the beaten track - not reserves or recognised birdwatching areas but localities he knew from experience would turn up the avian goodies. And he wasn't wrong. I was blown away by the number and variety of different birds I saw - many of them new to me. ‘Lifers' included Bruce's green pigeon (I never did find out who Bruce was), northern anteater chat, Abyssinian and rufous-crowned rollers, lesser blue-eared glossy starling, cardinal woodpecker, a variety of delightful sunbirds, little swift, grey kestrel, mosque swallow, grasshopper buzzard and brown snake eagle.

My favourite moment was late one afternoon when we drove across a vast, golden brown savannah landscape that was actually farmland. As the sun slipped down the western sky, all manner of birds of prey took to the wing: martial eagle, marsh, montagus and pallid harriers and black-shouldered kites. It was difficult deciding which birds to look at first. Almost overlooked in the raptor rapture was what Carlos was pretty sure was a white-bellied bustard.

During my six full days in The Gambia and Senegal, I saw around 180 bird species. If you like big birds, colourful birds, exotic birds, Senegal and The Gambia certainly take some beating.

Useful information
I travelled with specialist tour operator The Senegal Experience whose seven-night holidays at Keur Saloum Hotel in the Sine Saloum Delta start from £699 per person*. This price is based on half-board accommodation and includes return flights between London Gatwick and Banjul in The Gambia and transfers. Excursions, including birdwatching trips, can be booked once at the resort hotel.

The Senegal Experience offers a selection of hotels in the Sine Saloum Delta and Saly regions of Senegal, as well as well as ‘tours'. Dakar flights from the UK can also be booked.
For more information, call The Senegal Experience reservations department on +44 (0) 845 338 8706 or go to www.senegal.co.uk

The sound of Senegal comes to the UK

Wed, 26 Jan 2011 00:00:00 GMT

A Senegalese band is touring the UK in March. Les Frères Guissé consists of three brothers Djiby, Cheik and Aliou Guissé who originally come from Fouta Tooro in the North of the country and although their music has traditional West African roots, the poetic lyrics, close harmony singing, acoustic guitars and percussion should have wide appeal.

Les Frères Guissé are playing:

The Picket in Liverpool on 17th March
Rich Mix, London on 18th March
Tolbooth, Stirling on 19th March
The Compass Club at The Coliseum in Whitby on 20th March
MOMO, London on 22nd March
The West End Arts Centre, Aldershot on 23rd March
Boxgrove Village Hall, Chichester on 24th March
The Hawth, Crawley on 25th March
Wem Town Hall, Shropshire on 26th March

To find out more about the band visithttp://www.myspace.com/freresguisseofficiel

Interview with British organiser of Senegal’s World Festival of Black Arts

Tue, 04 Jan 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Guardian.co.uk has an interview with Kwame Kwei-Armah, the British actor and playwright who was curator of the World Festival of Black Arts held in Dakar last month. The festival was a huge event involving 6,000 artists over a period of three weeks – the opening ceremony itself attracted an audience of 40,000 people and featured 1,000 performers including Youssou N’Dour, Baaba Maal and Wyclef Jean.

To read the article in full see http://www.guardian.co.uk/stage/2011/jan/03/world-festival-of-black-arts-kwei-armah

The World Festival of Black Arts and Cultures

Thu, 16 Dec 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The third World Festival of Black Arts and Cultures is underway in Senegal and is attracting stars and visitors from around the world. The festival runs from 10th to 31st December 2010 and it is the first time such an event has been held for 33 years – the last was held in Lagos, Nigeria in 1977 and the first was held in Dakar in 1966.

The three-week festival features an eclectic mix of events covering film, sport, dance, photography, art, fashion, literature, and music. As well as shows, there are exhibitions, talks and workshops where visitors can get involved. The opening ceremony featured international starts Youssou Ndour and Baba Maal amongst others. For more details visit blackworldfestival.com

Senegalese Kora player performing on Radio 4

Wed, 17 Nov 2010 00:00:00 GMT

This morning’s BBC Radio 4 show “Midweek” with Libby Purves features Senegalese Kora player and drummer Seckou Keita performing live. He is also talking about his life growing up in Senegal. You can listen to the show online at http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00vy0vk and here’s what they have to say about him:

“Seckou Keita is a Senegalese born Kora player and drummer, who has been called the 'Hendrix of the Kora'. This year he launched a partnership with the International Committee of the Red Cross in which he will donate 50% of all the proceeds made from his latest album, 'The Silimbo Passage'.”

Senegalese Musician Playing Bridport

Thu, 21 Oct 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Senegalese musician Sadio Cissokho is playing at Bridport Arts Centre on Wednesday 27th October. Sadio and his band will be performing traditional West African instruments but with a modern twist, creating music with big beats. Sadio grew up in Casamance in southern Senegal and was taught the kora, a 21 string harp like instrument, by his father. Sadio and his band usually play in the clubs of Dakar, keeping dancers on their feet until the early hours. You can watch a video of the band, find out more and book tickets at www.bridport-arts.com/whats-on/event-details?id=416

Sweet Fine Saloum

Nick Boulos - Travel Africa Magazine — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The river’s cloudy water laps against the boat’s speckled blue underbelly as it grows slowly nearer. This lone, rickety vessel ahead is the only distraction on the otherwise serene horizon. Our journey through Senegal’s lush Sine Saloum delta had been, up until this point, a solitary one. But unlike me and my guide Paco, the chaps approaching weren’t out enjoying a leisurely day on West Africa’s most elegant network of waterways. The scenery was no doubt lost on these three opportunists, for they had business to attend to.

“Another illegal sugar run,” remarks Paco, his voice etched with disdain as they pull alongside. It seems some sweet-toothed people go to great lengths to get their sugar fix. “In the dead of the night,” Paco explains, “some people secretly venture across the border into The Gambia, where sugar is cheaper, and stock up on supplies.” As their boat, heavily laden with sacks of sugar, disappears and the hum of their engine grows faint, we are once again left with an uncompromising view of the snaking estuary ahead.

Three rivers – the Bandiala, Saloum and the Diombos – converge here with the Atlantic to form the Sine Saloum delta, one of Senegal’s most stunning spots. A wild expanse of beaches, lush mangrove swamps and sand islands, the protected lands of the delta – located on the Petite Cote, 60km south of Mbour – cover a remarkable 180,000ha. Nature enthusiasts in the know, particularly birdwatchers, flock here seeking the untamed landscapes and rich wildlife. Many of West Africa’s 560 bird species can be found here.

As you travel along the Saloum River, heavy branches clamber down towards the surface like thirsty giraffes at a waterhole. Dozens of inlets snake off in every direction, each holding unknown sights and sounds – some so narrow that only canoes could attempt to discover what lies within.

Ripples lap at our wooden stern and glisten over the wild and bright primary colours painted on its exterior. Soon the water takes on a more menacing persona as a strong Harmattan gust rushed around us. Blowing out from the Sahara, this West African trade wind has been known to carry the desert’s dust and sand as far as North America. On this occasion, it batters the Senegalese flag bellowing at the front of the boat, and causes the surface of the river to rise and hiss. As the rocky waters pound our vessel a flurry of black and white shoots past us – a flock of egrets taking to the sky to search for a more peaceful spot to dwell.
The stiff breeze dies down before long, and the river became calm and placid once again. Two more boats appear on the horizon. More sugar fiends, I suspect.
“No, these people are nomadic fisherman,” Paco informs me. “They come and go during the rainy season. Some spend three days fishing on the delta. They sleep on their boats to escape the mosquitoes and only return home when their supply of ice starts to melt,” he adds.

Paco steers the boat sharply and crosses to the other side of the river. Showing no signs of slowing down even slightly, the boat rushes ashore. Its underbelly scrapes against the thousands of perfectly formed crescent shells. Paco turns and smiles.
“Welcome to Diorom Boumack.”
Only a slither of land stands between the tall craggy peaks and the water’s edge where auburn leaves have settled in abundance. Hidden within the chalky cliff faces, Paco proudly informs me, is evidence that people had lived here four centuries before Christ. Embedded tightly within the rocks were numerous pieces of pottery that once belonged to these early settlers. Paco leads me to a dilapidated wooden ladder and looks up towards its steep ascent expectantly. Each step seems to struggle as I advance higher, and the rail shakes wildly as I grasp it with white knuckles. Once up on terra firma, I peer down on the tangled vines of the endless mangroves that cling to the river’s shoreline.

Towering baobab trees, sturdy with their gangly, root-like branches, dominate the parched vista of Diorom Boumack. In the centre of the biggest baobab is a large hollow chamber, its eerie trunk covered in deep, ancient carvings. This darkened clearing was the final resting place for historians and other respected members of the community. As final resting places go, this is indeed a spectacular option and was understandably reserved for only a select few.
However, there’s more to the Sine Saloum than its nature and heritage found on the banks of its rivers. With this in mind, I eventually venture away from the delta itself to explore the arid land beyond.

Wednesday is market day at Nguéniène, and heading into the town ahead of us is a long procession of horse and carts ferrying families and purchases. “Public transport,” quips Yamar, my guide for the day. These steeds and their thunderous footsteps send a dusty blaze skyward. The clattering of their hooves is soon drowned out by the intoxicating commotion of village life. A council of elders sits engrossed in deep conversation, rubbing their grey whiskery beards as they speak in whispers. Children sprint around the large cattle market where farmers mull by the fence finalising business transactions.
Nguéniène is a cauldron of colour and aromas. The musky scent of dried barracudas, red carp and marous linger heavily, but the onions and spices add a sharp bitterness you can almost taste. Elsewhere reels of paprika-red and ocean-blue fabrics with swirling yellow patterns hang from rusty stalls. The local mosque enjoys a surge of foot traffic, though the same cannot be said for the local salon. Even its large hand-painted mural of a manicured hand does little to attract business. The owner stands in the doorway idly surveying her perfectly groomed fingernails.

Later we pass the remote settlement of Leona, the site of a cluster of only six or so thatched huts. Three ladies sit barefoot in the shade of a large alamo tree, and together they chat as they methodically work through a mound of peanut shells, cracking them open one by one and depositing the nuts in a hollowed-out calabash shell. Chickens roam amongst them and shards of broken peanut shells are strewn around their outstretched legs and leathery-skinned soles. Their weathered faces break out in broad smiles as we pass. Leaving Leona, the trees and shrubs thin away as we approach the delta once again. The tide is out, revealing sparse flatlands. In the distance a car careers across the grey plains, like a scene lifted straight from Days of Thunder.

Later, at Keur Saloum, a riverside hotel boasting serene views over the Diombos River near Toubakouta, I am keen to delve further into the area’s intriguing backwaters. Since the delta is my oyster I waste no time in climbing into another boat and setting forth. This pirogue is half the size of Paco’s, making it the perfect vessel to get into those hard to reach places. Gargling somewhere beneath the surface, the motor comes to life, casting gentle ripples far and wide. The twisting branches overhead rustle as birds take flight against the setting sun. We set off and navigate our way across the river’s main channel before veering off into a windy tributary that narrows with every inch we travel. Wild mangroves erupt from the waterbed and close in around us, low-hanging vines swoop down like leopard tails. The stream sweeps along until it curves sharply. I lean over, attempting to steal a glimpse of what is ahead, but can see nothing but layer upon layer of impenetrable greenery. We enter an enclosed clearing surrounded entirely by tall emerald walls. Floating in this a natural cul-de-sac of verdant paddy leaves, we have clearly gone as far as Mother Nature will allow. The silence is penetrating. Every accentuated birdcall drifts through the trees and lingers in the air. Back on the Diombos, the inky blue sky is smudged across the horizon, and streaks of crimson ribbon start to appear. The tide is rising slowly and the birdwatchers on board are getting twitchy. Everyone studies the sky above as a steady flow of long-tailed egrets, cormorants and reef herons soar overhead.
Hundreds upon hundreds of feathered outlines soon swoop down on a speck of land, known as Reposoir des Oiseaux (Birds Dormitory Island), in the middle of the delta. We are not alone though; a few other boats have gathered for this nightly spectacle.

Countless species sit perched on every inch of every tree. A deafening chorus of squawks and piercing calls booms from the branches. Dark shapes race around in all directions; birds chase each other in and out of this large, forested aviary and vanish into its deep crevices.
The temperature drops as night falls and the last trace of light disappears over the horizon. Despite the chill in the air, this evening’s events are the icing on the cake – no need for even a sprinkle of illegal sugar.

Plan your trip
Getting there
The Senegal Experience (www.senegal.co.uk) run a twin-centre trip with three nights in The Gambia and four nights at Keur Saloum on the Sine Saloum delta costing from £1000 per person including return flights from London Gatwick, half-board accommodation and transfers.

When to visit - The Sine Saloum delta enjoys warm weather all year round, with a short rainy season between June and September.

Visas - Visitors from the UK, EU, USA and Canada do not need visas to travel to Senegal. Passports, however, are required to be valid for three months after your planned return date.

Books - Lonely Planet’s The Gambia & Senegal (4th edition, 2009) by Katharina Lobeck Kane is the most up-to-date and thorough guidebook on the region.

Find out more - The Senegal Experience (www.senegal.co.uk), Senegal Tourism Office (www.senegal-tourism.com)

AITO Travel Expo

Wed, 29 Sep 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Come and find out more about Senegal and other destinations available through our sister companies (The Gambia, Cape Verde, Corsica, Sardinia and Short Breaks to France & Belgium) at the AITO Travel Expo. Wednesday 6th October from 6 - 8.30pm at The Science Museum in London. Entry is free and there's a glass of wine on arrival, to register email travelexpo@aito.com

You can find out more at http://www.aito.co.uk/holiday-inspirations.asp

Hat-trick for Niang secures win for Senegal

Tue, 07 Sep 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal has secured a win over DR Congo in Group E of the African Cup of Nations 2012 qualifiers, winning by 4 goals to 2 thanks to a hat-trick from Mamadou Niang.

The match, held at The Kenya Stadium in Lubumbashi in the Democratic Republic of The Congo, was a noisy affair with strong support for the home team. Despite this the visitors led 3-0 after just 19 minutes following a strike by Samba Almany Sow in the fifth minute and then two goals by Niang. Congo’s Anawina Kabangu scored in the 45th minute to give the home team some hope but the game was put beyond their reach in the 68th minute when Niang completed his hat-trick – with the score 1-4 to Senegal. Kabangu got a late goal for Congo making the final score 2-4.

New Emirates Flight To Dakar

Thu, 02 Sep 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The first Emirates flight from Dubai to Dakar took off yesterday morning – it is the airlines 105th destination and the only non-stop scheduled passenger service from Dubai to Senegal, creating a vital link between West Africa and the Middle East.

An Airbus A340-300 is used for the route with 12 seats in first class, 42 in business and 213 in economy. The flight EK 797 will operate five days a week - departing from Dubai at 09.55 every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday and arriving into Dakar at 16.00. The returning flight from Senegal will depart at 17.40 and arrive into Dubai at 07.15 the following morning.

Any progress for Africa’s Great Green Wall?

Wed, 23 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal’s President Abdoulaye Wade is in Chad with 10 other African heads of state to discuss the proposal for The Great Green Wall, a 4831 mile-long belt of trees crossing the continent to halt the expansion of the Sahara Desert.

The Wall would be 15 kilometres wide and would go through 11 countries including Senegal, Mali, Nigeria, Niger, Sudan and Ethiopia. The project is supported by the African Union but despite being conceived five years ago, it has not yet got underway due to a lack of funding.

NEW: The Senegal Experience 2010/11 Collection

Press Office - The Senegal Experience — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Specialist tour operator, The Senegal Experience launches its November 2010 – October 2011 Collection next week. Within the new look brochure, Senegal content will be presented alongside sister company, The Gambia Experience, due to increased interest in twin-centre holidays between the two destinations.

With 23 years experience of organising holidays to West Africa, The Senegal Experience and The Gambia Experience offer the widest range of flight and accommodation options to the UK market.
The Senegal Experience is now approaching its third year of operation and offers twelve hotels split between the regions of Saly & La Somone, and the Sine Saloum Delta - the latter encompassing the Saloum Delta National Park. A variety of hotels are featured with descriptions of each property’s suitability for certain clientele, with ‘Personal Experiences’ from customers, staff and the media added to enhance this content. Each destination contains its own Luxury Collection, much of which is exclusive and some of which now include spa facilities.

Flight Update
The Senegal Experience offers twice-weekly scheduled flights with Brussels Airlines to Dakar from five UK airports - including London Heathrow – all via Brussels, with business class upgrades available. With The Gambia Experience offering charter flights into Banjul, twin-centres between Senegal and The Gambia can be easily arranged. {The tour operator suggests flying into Dakar and out of Banjul to avoid supplement costs}.
The Gambia Experience offers twice weekly and year-round London Gatwick departures direct to Banjul and exclusively offers the opportunity to upgrade to a Premium Class flight service. The tour operator is pleased to announce a new departure point to Banjul for 2010/11: Stansted. The Stansted – Banjul route will operate on a Tuesday between December 2010 – March 2011, and with the flight via Boa Vista on the outbound, holidays incorporating Cape Verde will also become possible. A Bristol – Banjul route will operate during the same period on a Friday, but via Boa Vista on the inbound, also allowing add-on stays in Cape Verde. Twice-weekly Manchester and weekly Birmingham departures direct to Banjul will operate during the winter season.

Multi-Centre Holidays – Inspiring Hotel Combinations
For the first time, the new Gambia Experience / Senegal Experience brochure has presented sample hotel combinations within its brochure to provide inspiration as to the scope of twin or multi-centre holidays. This can be within Senegal or The Gambia or combining the two countries. Suggested themed breaks include: the Luxurious Spas of The Gambia and Senegal and Discover The Real Africa. Courtesy of the new Boa Vista routes, Cape Verde may also be incorporated. The Senegal Experience also offers private Tours of Senegal with a driver / guide.

Birdwatching with Chris Packham
A twin-centre Senegal & The Gambia holiday could be enjoyed in February 2011 when BBC presenter Chris Packham returns to The Gambia to lead Birdwatching Tours for Gambia / Senegal Experience customers. There is a choice of a three-day tour, as well as a three-night option with accommodation incorporated at the award-winning Mandina Lodges at Makasutu. Full itineraries and prices are available by visiting www.gambia.co.uk/chrispackham New for 2010/11, The Gambia Experience is offering three additional Birdwatching Tours with Malick Suso - Chris Packham’s choice of local guide. For more information, visit www.gambia.co.uk/birdwatching

Sustainable Tourism Update
The Senegal Experience is accredited with 5-star AITO (Association of Independent Tour Operators) Sustainable Tourism status - the highest level possible. The Senegal Experience supports The Gambia Experience’s ‘School Development Fund’, which will be re-launched this summer with a new website and aim to raise additional money for two building projects in The Gambia. For more information visit www.gambia.co.uk/schools

Early Booking Offers
A number of Early Booking Offers are available, valid for holidays booked by 10 July 2010.
These include savings of up to £180 per person, 4 nights for the price of 3, and 11 nights for the price of 7. This season, The Senegal Experience offers 7-night holidays from £879 per person, with Senegal Luxury Collection holidays starting from £1098 - all including flights & transfers. For more information, please call The Senegal Experience Reservations Dept on 0845 338 8706 or visit www.senegal.co.uk

Senegal Play Denmark Tonight

Thu, 27 May 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal play against Denmark tonight in Aalborg, Denmark in a World Cup warm-up match for the hosts. However Senegal are not expected to win following recent form – they failed to qualify for a second consecutive World Cup finals after reaching the quarter finals of the 2002 tournament; in contrast to Denmark’s surprisingly good results, finishing ahead of Sweden and Portugal in qualifying. Kick off for this international friendly is at 19.15 GMT.

Senegal Independence Day

Wed, 07 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

On Sunday 4th April Senegal celebrated 50 years of Independence and around the world its citizens marked the occasion. In Senegal itself hundreds witnessed the unveiling of the controversial Monument of the African Renaissance in Dakar – at almost fifty metres high this bronze statue has cost millions. You can see pictures of the monument and read more about it at http://www1.voanews.com/english/news/africa/Senegal-Marks-50-Years-Of-Independence-With-Calls-For-African-Unity-89928687.html

In the UK Senegal’s Independence Day was also celebrated; in Edinburgh there were parties with music by Senegalese musicians and African cuisine. Read about it in The Guardian http://www.guardian.co.uk/edinburgh/2010/apr/05/senegal-independence-anniversary-celebrations-edinburgh

May Travel Offers

Press Office - The Senegal Experience — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 00:00:00 GMT

SALY 5 GRADE HALF-BOARD OFFER

The Senegal Experience is offering 7 night holidays at the 5 grade Lamantin Beach Hotel in the resort of Saly from £999 per person, valid for departures on 12, 19 or 26 May and resulting in a saving of £60pp from brochure price. This price is based on half board accommodation (two sharing a standard room) and includes return scheduled flights from Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester, Bristol or Newcastle (via Brussels), transfers and taxes.

Complete with its own Spa and renowned for its gourmet cuisine, hotel facilities include a large swimming pool, private white sand beach, as well as a marina with watersports.

Please note that the same holiday is available on a 14-night duration from £1319 per person, resulting in a saving of £150pp from brochure price.

LA SOMONE 4 GRADE ALL-INCLUSIVE OFFER

The Senegal Experience is offering 7 night holidays at the 4 grade Royal Decameron Baobab Resort from £969 per person, valid for departures on 12, 19 or 26 May and resulting in a saving of £45pp from brochure price. This price is based on all-inclusive accommodation (two sharing a standard room), and includes return scheduled flights from Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester, Bristol or Newcastle (via Brussels), transfers and taxes.

This newly refurbished hotel is perfectly positioned between a sandy beach and the La Somone lagoon (home to the Réserve de la Somone).

Please note that the same holiday is available on a 14-night duration from £1329 per person, resulting in a saving of £83pp from brochure price.

Please call The Senegal Experience Reservations Dept on 0845 338 8706 or visit www.senegal.co.uk

International Jazz Festival of Saint-Louis

Thu, 28 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The 18th International Jazz Festival of Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Jazz) will be held between 20th and 23rd May 2010 in the Senegalese city of Saint-Louis, in the north of the country.

Acts performing this year include Pharaoh Sanders (saxophone), William Henderson (piano), The Emmanuel Bex Trio, The Sylvain Beuf Quartet, Freddie Bryant and the Kaleidoscope Trio, Jugend Jazz Orchestra and African Roots Jazz Quartet.

For more details about the event visit www.saintlouisjazz.com

Senegalese Festival Included In The Guardian’s “Best Local Festivals of 2010”

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Festival les Blues du Fleuve in Senegal has been included in The Guardian’s “Best Local Festivals of 2010” – a list of the top 26 festivals across the world chosen by the paper’s travel experts for their unique experiences and chance to party like the locals.

Festival les Blues du Fleuve is organised by Senegalese singer Baaba Maal and includes stays with local familes at the small towns along the river Senegal which host the festival. There is also a musical caravan which travels between the venues , led by Baaba Maal himself. In 2009 the festival was held over Christmas, from 24th to 26th December. To find out more about the festival visit www.festivallesbluesdufleuve.com

To read the full article visit www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2010/jan/02/2010-best-festivals-june-december?page=all

New London departures from Heathrow

Press Office - The Senegal Experience — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

The Senegal Experience reports that as of yesterday [13 January 2010] its holidays which feature London flights with Brussels Airlines to Dakar* will now operate out of London Heathrow, as opposed to London Gatwick. In addition, the independent tour operator has announced that Brussels Airlines will now also offer new regional departures from Bristol and Newcastle, adding to existing regional departures from Birmingham and Manchester.

The Senegal Experience - sister company to the well-established Gambia Experience - is now in its second winter season of operation. The specialist offers twelve hotels in total, split between the regions of Saly & La Somone, and the Sine Saloum Delta - the latter encompassing the Saloum Delta National Park. A choice of three or seven night private Tours is new to the 2009/2010 brochure.

Incorporating the new Heathrow departures, sample packages from The Senegal Experience include 7 nights at the 4 grade Delta Niominka – a unique hotel situated on the island of Dionewar, a short boat ride from the Sine Saloum Delta - from £999 per person, valid for departures on 3 March, and resulting in a saving of £99pp from brochure price. This price is based on half board accommodation at the hotel and includes return flights, taxes and transfers.

Alternatively, 7-nights at the 5 grade Lamantin Beach hotel in the resort of Saly is available from £1049pp, valid for the same departure dates and resulting in a saving of £89pp from brochure price. Based on a half board basis, this again includes flights from Heathrow, taxes and transfers.

Sample ‘Tours’ include the three nights ‘Grand Coast Adventure Tour’, which incorporates Dakar, the Lompoul Desert, Saint Louis, Djoudj Park, the Pink Lake and Kayar. A discount of up to £160pp on all seven-night Tours and up to £80pp on all three-night Tours is valid for March departures.

For more information, please call The Senegal Experience Reservations Dept on 0845 338 8706 or visit www.senegal.co.uk

Alternative destinations for winter sun

Nigel Tisdall - Telegraph.co.uk — Tue, 29 Dec 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Getting away this winter doesn’t have to mean visiting hot-spots such as Egypt, Thailand and the Caribbean. Here are five destinations that mix sunshine with fresh sights.

On the coast of west Africa, Senegal is emerging as a new option for winter sun. It's a Francophone place, well known for its vibrant music, with easygoing beach resorts and a dry season from December to April. Key attractions are the Sine Saloum Delta and its rich birdlife, and the ethereal pink waters of Lac Rose on the Grande Côte.

The Senegal Experience (0845 330 2080; www.senegal.co.uk) has packages – in February, a week combining a three-night Grand Coast Adventure with four nights at the Lamantin Beach Hotel costs from £1,516 per person, including return flight via Brussels, transfers and half board.

Gambia and Senegal: winter warmth among the baobab trees

Francesca Hoyles - Telegraph.co.uk — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 00:00:00 GMT

"Oh, do speak English, love, no one speaks Spanish around here," replied the barman, despite the fact that we were on Tenerife, a Spanish island. This was exactly the kind of exchange I was hoping to avoid on my next winter-sun break.

In previous years, the search for warm winter sunshine a short flight from Britain had taken me to beach resorts on Egypt's Red Sea Coast and the Canary Islands (both a five-hour flight away). I was looking for something different, removed from the beach bars and crowds, but still sunny and a similar distance away. Less than six hours' flying time from London, with average temperatures reaching 31 degrees in November, Gambia, on the west coast of Africa, looked promising. I decided to combine a holiday there with some time in Senegal, its larger neighbour.

Just a couple of hours after my flight landed in Banjul, Gambia’s capital, I was exploring the mangroves in a dugout canoe. In contrast to the 40-minute drive from the airport, along bumpy roads in an old banger, my watery excursion was calm and quiet. I passed women from local villages, who skirted the edges of the mangrove in pirogues (small wooden boats), studiously collecting the oysters that grew on its intricate roots. Besides these women, there were only hooting birds and an extraordinary number of jumping fish to break the peace.

My first night was spent at the Mandina Lodges on a tributary of Gambia River. There were eight lodges, either on the water or set back from the river like mine, which had its own large roof terrace with a day bed and seating area. Best of all, one of its two solar-powered open-air showers was on the roof. I enjoyed far-reaching views over miles of mangrove and golden sky as I washed away the grime of a day spent on the move.

As evening fell, I went down to the thatched restaurant by the water. I could only just make out the handful of other lodge guests in the lantern-lit space. A warm breeze entered the open-sided tented dining area, bringing the sound of roosting birds and the occasional pirogue being paddled back to a neighbouring village. It was a far cry from the hustle and bustle of beach resorts in more established winter-sun destinations.

The next morning, we set off for Senegal, crossing Gambia River as a foot passenger on the local ferry. It was the kind of journey where you needed to lose any stuffy British ideas about time. I stood squashed against other passengers in the scorching sunshine for more than an hour, waiting for the ferry to depart. In that time I was offered everything from a shoeshine (I was wearing flip-flops) to Manchester United key rings and toy mobile phones.

From the Mandina Lodges in Gambia, it took more than six hours to get to our accommodation near Palmarin through landscapes of shimmering salt flats and thirsty scrubland.

Our remote French-owned lodge, Les Collines de Niassam, was on the outskirts of the Saloum Delta National Park. It is set in a landscape that bore a striking resemblance to the Camargue, looking out on to a vast expanse of windswept sand carved up by the shallow waters of a lagoon, a haven for bird life. There were stilted lodges on the water, but mine was cradled in the upper branches of a mighty baobab tree, which swayed slightly in the breeze.

Halfway up the tree, reached by steps from the ground, was a terrace with table and hammock, where I breakfasted on baguettes (the French influence again) with a jam made by women from the neighbouring village out of bissap (hibiscus) flowers. This private platform amid the baobab branches was the perfect spot to watch the pelicans as they swooped into the lagoon and emerged with beaks full of fish.

In fact, many people come to the region to see the abundant bird life. Even if you are not a birdwatcher, there are so many species, in so many colours and sizes, that it would be hard not to find them a beautiful distraction.

After dinner, we drank on the restaurant terrace overlooking the lagoon’s baobab-topped islands – one of which, according to local legend, is inhabited by a sacred spirit. There were no neighbouring bars or hotels. The only light came from flickering lanterns that led back to the lodges; the only noise that of distant drumming, was occasionally carried on the wind from the nearest village. The sense of isolation – which took some getting used to – was absolute.

When morning came, we took a boat trip through nearby mangroves to a beach where we sampled oysters plucked from the mangrove roots and cooked over a smoky fire. The guide didn’t speak English and I only speak a few words of French so after a few attempts to communicate, I settled for pointing at birds in exchange for their French names and then ultimately for silence. It couldn’t have been further from the “speak English, love” experience – but, perversely, it left me wishing that we could have communicated more easily.

Returning to Gambia, we drove past carts pulled by donkeys and through villages where the water was drawn from wells and electricity didn’t exist. I found myself dwelling on this simplicity and the accompanying hardships for the people who live here. The chasm between this way of life and the relative luxury of the tourist resorts seemed immense.

Back at the Mandina Lodges, this disparity hadn’t been swept under the carpet. As the sun set over the mangrove, the owners – an uncle and nephew team from England – told me how staff at the lodges and forest come from the surrounding villages, a move designed to ensure that local people benefit from tourism. At the Makasutu Culture Forest – the 1,000 acres of mangroves, savannah, palms, wetlands and salt flats where the lodges are set – the eco-guides speak fluent English, making it a popular excursion for people who want to learn about Gambian wildlife, nature and culture.

As at Collines de Niassam, there was little to do but explore the natural surroundings and bird life. Mostly, it was a place for peace and quiet, away from rowdier destinations on the well-worn winter-sun trail.

Gambia and Senegal basics
Francesca Hoyles travelled with Gambia Experience which offers an eight-night Gambia-and-Senegal holiday, incorporating the Mandina Lodges at Makasutu in Gambia and Lodge des Collines de Niassam in Senegal, from £1,377 per person (based on two people travelling).

This price is based on four nights at Mandina (half board in a floating lodge) then four nights at Lodge des Collines de Niassam (half board in a tree house) and includes a return flight from Gatwick*, transfers and taxes.

For more information, please contact Gambia Experience (0845 330 2087; www.gambia.co.uk), or The Senegal Experience (0845 338 8706; www.senegal.co.uk).

*Flight is into Banjul, Gambia and out of Dakar, Senegal

Follow the sun to Senegal for animal magic

Tony Dawe - The Times — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

An intriguing landscape in the wilds of Africa, with a thousand flamingos pirouetting in ponds, a jackal loping across the sandy plain and hawks hovering above, is now within easy reach of British holidaymakers.

Twice-weekly flights from the UK, via Brussels, land in Dakar, the capital of Senegal, where the Senegal Experience is ready to lead holidaymakers to a very foreign land. As the tarmac road runs out 140km south of the capital, four-wheel-drive vehicles follow tracks across the sand, barely disturbing the wildlife, en route to the Sine Saloum Delta.

Behind an endless stretch of sandy beaches bordering the Atlantic is a network of slow-flowing rivers, lined by mangrove swamps, and gentlyrippling lagoons with baobab trees, like illustrations from a Roald Dahl book, dotted along the shores. This is a land where vehicles are replaced by horse-drawn buggies and pirogues, the rickety wooden boats powered by a single white sail and a paddle, expertly handled by local fishermen.

A few simple yet charming hotels and lodges, all with their own swimming pools and viewing terraces, are hidden in the delta, providing a perfect base for bush walks, bird spotting, river fishing and sailing trips.

At the Lodge des Collines, the choice of accommodation includes a bedroom in a baobab tree with a bathroom beneath and a thatched lodge on the lagoon, with a simple shower fed by rainwater and pails of hot water carried from the kitchen across a pontoon. A week in a tree house at the lodge costs from £1,279, with a flight from Gatwick on December 12, transfers and half-board.

Beyond the hills that give the lodge its name lies a fascinating industrial landscape: dozens of pools full of dark water with conical mounds of salt beside them. Local families tend to own enough land to excavate three of four ponds, with the men digging out the sand while their women, often with small children on their backs, gather salt in raffia baskets.

At Hotel Keur Saloum, perched above rivers that meander into the distance in each direction farther south in the delta, guests may choose between a simple, circular thatched African bungalow or a spacious suite with river views. A week’s half-board from November 27 is from £809, with a flight to The Gambia and transfer via ferry and bus.
For those who want to see more of the country, tours head out from Dakar by 4x4, boat and even camel, to the natural beauty of the Pink Lake, the old colonial town of Saint-Louis, the ochre dunes of the Lompoul Desert and national parks with an astonishing array of birds and wildlife. A Senegal Experience seven-night panorama tour from November 28 costs from £1,699, with a flight to Dakar, all meals, accommodation and excursions.

While exploring the delta and the desert guarantees a memorable holiday, Senegal is an equally suitable destination for soaking up winter sunshine, with the temperatures heading above 30C from November to March and minimal rainfall.

The resort of Saly, 80km south of Dakar, offers four and five-star hotels beside palm-fringed, sandy beaches and with facilities one would expect from properties popular with French and Belgian tourists and ex-patriates. A week’s B&B at the Hotel Espadon costs from £949, with a flight to Dakar on December 5 and transfers.

Guests eager to see some wildlife during their holiday need travel only a few kilometres to the Bandia Animal Reserve, 3,700 acres of woodland, sand and streams which are home to local species — many reintroduced from South Africa after they had died out in this region.

Powerful antelope and delicate impala lope through the bush, rhinoceros wallow in muddy ponds and crocodiles lounge on the edge of a lake, visible from a pleasant bar and restaurant. So, there’s the choice in Senegal: watch the wildlife in comfort or seek it out by boat or buggy.

www.senegal.co.uk —0845 3388706

The first-timer's guide to Senegal

Alex Spence - Timesonline — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

The children eyed us hesitantly, unsure whether to approach us or stay back. It had obviously been a while since they'd seen a car, let alone a couple of pale tourists from London.

My girlfriend, Michelle, and I were in a village somewhere in the north of Senegal. We'd been tossed around for hours in the back of a four-wheel-drive as our guide navigated the bumpy sand tracks that pass for roads.

The landscape was stark and unrelentingly dry. This is the beginning of the Sahel, the semi-arid belt that runs across Africa separating the Sahara from the savanna. It is one of the world's poorest regions, sparsely populated and prone to devastating droughts. Away from the coast, where we'd spend most of the previous week, it was almost 40 degrees.

The village consisted of a dozen or so thatched huts clustered around a dusty yard. Several goats scratched around in search of food. The chief, a wiry old man with kind, twinkling eyes, greeted us warmly and beckoned us to sit in the shade. A couple of plastic chairs were produced. Would we stay for lunch? Where were we from? Why had we come to Senegal?
That was a fair question. Senegal has long been on the radar of French holidaymakers but has largely escaped the attention of tourists from the UK. It's a decent bet that few readers will have it on their list of potential winter sun destinations this year.

And that's a shame, as it's one of the most interesting places we've been.

A former French colony, Senegal has a rich history and a vibrant modern culture. It is one of the most stable states in West Africa, politically pluralistic and ethnically diverse; the population (13 million) is overwhelmingly Muslim yet it does not seem religiously oppressive. Everywhere we went, the people were hospitable and open, not yet jaded by mass tourism.

There is a surprising variety of things for tourists to see and do, whether you're in the mood for relaxing in a hammock on a beach or something more adventurous. In a week-and-a-half, we cruised through crocodile-infested wetlands, drank tea with shepherds and slept in tents in the desert. We visited lively urban markets and isolated nomad camps — and, yes, there was some beach time, too. It was just the sort of raw, authentic experience that we'd hoped we would get in Africa.

We began in Dakar, the sprawling capital. A modern, cosmopolitan city of 3 million, its wide streets are jammed with traffic and lined with banks and government buildings. At night, the restaurants fill with Japanese aid workers and European diplomats, while the bars heave to music by local heroes such as Youssou N'Dour and Orchestra Baobab. There are vast markets, stadia and mosques. It feels like a city on the rise. The westernmost city in Africa, Dakar was one of the main jumping off points for thousands of slaves who were sent to the New World. Today many tourists stay in the city just long enough to visit Goree Island, a 15th-century Portuguese port that was used to process many of the slaves.

A 20-minute ferry ride from the centre of the city, it's a pretty, sleepy place: brightly-coloured colonial-style houses, narrow streets full of stalls selling tourist kitsch, a few decent waterfront restaurants.

We visited a former slave house and looked around the dingy holding rooms in the basement, where numerous slaves once awaited transport to the Americas. It was difficult to reconcile what they must have endured here with the pleasantness of the rest of the island.

For us, the highlight of Dakar was a wrestling tournament at one of the city's main stadiums. It was a big deal, our guide told us, with every country in West Africa taking part and Senegal favoured to win.

The wrestlers were phenomenal physical specimens: tall, lean, incredibly strong. Their bouts took place one-by-one in a sand-filled ring, and lasted a few minutes at most. Outside the ring, the entertainment was even more compelling. Wrestlers strutted around theatrically, stirring the crowd. There was loud, relentless drumming and dancers in exotic costumes.

The Senegalese team reached the final but lost to Nigeria, their bitter rivals. Yamar, our guide, was crestfallen. One of the Senegalese wrestlers began wailing inconsolably, and a man in the crowd behind us screamed as if possessed. The Nigerian wrestlers pranced around triumphantly. It was tremendous theatre.

After Dakar, most tourists head for the beach resorts south of the capital. Instead, we went north, along the Grand Coast. It is mostly deserted, with only a couple of settlements of any size, which means it is possible to drive much of the way along the beach itself. For years, it served as the final stretch of the Paris-Dakar rally.
We arranged a car and a guide through The Senegal Experience, a UK operator that has recently begun offering private tours. Starting at £1,179 per person for three nights, including flights, the tours may be beyond some travellers, yet without a sturdy vehicle and an experienced driver it would’ve been almost impossible to have seen everything we did. That’s the biggest downside of travelling in Senegal.

As evening fell, we arrived in Kayar, Senegal's biggest fishing town. The scene was spectacular. Hundreds of colourfully-painted pirogues lined the shore; many more were returning from sea, hauled through the surf by men with long ropes. Other boats waited beyond the breakers. Women and children moved about, paying little attention to us, carting the fish from the boats in plastic buckets perched on their heads. The smell of fish was overpowering.

A fisherman who spoke good English walked us through the hubbub. The incursion of foreign trawlers has depleted their traditional fishing grounds, he told us, which has meant that the locals have found it increasinly difficult to sustain their livelihoods. For this dangerous work, they can expect to make £5 a day if they're lucky.

That night, we stopped at a camp in the Lompoul Desert. It is not so much a desert, really, as a collection of tall sand dunes not far from the ocean. Weary from the long drive, we dropped our bags in our surprisingly luxurious tent before joining the other guests — a group of French travellers on a weekend break from Dakar — for dinner. We sat on cushions by the dim light of a few kerosene lamps, and ate a hearty Moroccan-style lamb stew.
Outside the tents, the sky was clear and full of stars. I sat around the fire as two of the cooks played djembe drums and sang Wolof folk songs. A while later, I stumbled off to bed. It was deathly quiet. I haven't slept so soundly in years.

The next day we reached St Louis, Senegal's colonial jewel and the last settlement before the Mauritanian border.

Located at the mouth of the Senegal river, the former French trading port was once the richest city in West Africa. It was established by French traders in the mid-17th century and fell into British hands for a short time about a hundred years later; it was eventually returned to French control and it remained the centre of colonial power in Senegal the beginning of last century.

It is now faded and crumbling but nevertheless charming — the West African equivalent of Trinidad or Luang Prabang. We stayed at Maison Jamm, a guesthouse owned by Yves Lamour, a French businessman who retired to St Louis five years ago after making a fortune in the technology business in Paris....To enjoy the remainder of Alex Spence's feature, please click to read the online version.

Rhythm & Blues

Martin Symington - Wanderlust magazine — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Surprising Senegal

Petra Shepherd - The Travel Channel — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Working for The Travel Channel, I’m not surprisingly the envy of all my friends who always wistfully ask “So where are you off to now?” My answer more often than not is greeted with gasps of envy and looks of pure jealousy. However, when I announced I was heading off to Senegal at Easter, the replies were more along the lines of “Whatever for?” or “Where is that?” Senegal as a holiday destination doesn’t really seem to have registered, although the French have been going there for years. The British on the other hand tend to favour The Gambia, the small country entirely enclosed within Senegal. The two destinations share many similarities, though French-speaking Senegal is bigger, brasher and has a host of unique excursions to tempt the hardened traveller. Just viewing the photos on my return was enough to silence the more cynical of my acquaintances.

Firstly, be prepared for a culture shock the moment you land. This is Africa at its most raw and basic. My first impression of the cars at the airport was that they all seemed to be tied together with string; there were cars with literally no floors, and others where the front end seemed to be have been stapled to the back end of a totally different make. It was all noisy, colourful, dusty, chaotic, and strange – I loved it. I didn’t love it quite so much after having been stuck for hours on end in grid-locked traffic on a city centre road with more pot holes than actual surface. To be honest, this was one of the worst roads I encountered on the trip. Most of the main roads were tarmaced, and the taxis and 4 x 4s provided for tourist transfers and excursions were new, safe and very roadworthy.

Senegal is located on the extreme West Coast of Africa with direct flights from Paris and Brussels. It’s in the same time zone as Europe so there’s no jet lag. Year round high temperatures are a big draw for Europeans looking for some winter sun. Most head for the beach resorts at Saly Portugal, a two hour (if you’re lucky) 50 mile drive south of the airport.

The top notch 4* and 5* hotels are in sharp contrast to the African experience outside the resort area. My hotel, the Hotel Espadon was charming, spacious, fully air conditioned, low level and smack on the beach. I shouldn’t really say this but the French are not going to settle for second rate, over cooked, mass market holiday food and so perhaps the best thing about all the hotels was the standard of the cuisine – faultless and deliciously fresh. If it’s a fly and flop holiday you want, then Senegal is an obvious choice, guaranteed sunshine, stunning beaches and first rate hotels with good sized swimming pools and all the amenities. When it comes to water sports Senegal is not a primitive backwater. There a number of centres with the usual waterskiing, jet skiing, kayaking, windsurfing and catamarans. Some people purely come to fish and there are well established fishing clubs on hand aimed mainly at the enthusiast; they did tend to be quite pricey. However, if its adventure and a taste of the real Africa, you’re after, then Senegal will not disappoint.

There are a surprising number of different excursions on offer from Saly. Having fought my way there from the airport, the last thing I wanted to do was head back to Dakar so my first choice (and one of the most popular on offer) was a jaunt south to one of Senegal’s most beautiful regions, the Sine Saloum Delta. Two rivers flow into the Atlantic Ocean to form a 180,000 hectare area of mangrove swamps, bolongs (creeks), islands made entirely of shells and salt craters. It’s best explored by pirogue (local canoe) and is a favourite with birdwatchers and fishermen. For non-twitchers or anglers like myself, the scenery alone has a magical quality and the local life of villages and donkey carts is straight out of National Geographic. Women pound cassava, and seemingly hundreds of snotty nosed smiley children run amock.

On day two I headed for the Senegalese capital. Dakar will forever be associated with the Paris-Dakar Rally, and for Brits, with Mark Thatcher getting lost in the desert. There’s no chance of you getting lost if you choose to enjoy your own rally experience in a 4 x 4 plus driver along what used to be the Rally’s final stretch. It’s great fun and not dissimilar to wadi bashing in Dubai. Sadly, regional political instability has forced the Paris-Dakar over the Atlantic to South America but you can still get a taste of what drivers went through, although probably not at the same speed. After pounding the dunes, my tour continued with a mad drive along the beach trying to beat the incoming tide to one of Senegal’s major fishing villages, Kayar. Here literally hundreds of colourful pirogues can be seen plunging through the breakers, nets are cast and the whole town seems to be out and about on the beach. Nearby and no where near as noisy is Lac Rose. Like the Sine Saloum Delta and Kayar, it’s billed as one of Senegal’s must see sights. To be honest Lac Rose or Pink Lake was something of a disappointment. The lake is supposed to look pink thanks to its high concentration of salty minerals. Maybe I’ve seen too many “Disneyfied” waterways; a river died bright green to celebrate St Patrick’s Day and an unnaturally blue Venetian canal at The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas, but this lake did not in any shape or form look pink to me! Apparently, the spectacle isn’t always visible and the sun does need to be especially high to see it, so maybe I was just unlucky.

The islands and bolongs of Sine Saloum are a full day excursion, as is Lake Rose and Kayar. If you’re wanting more, then as a 3rd must do excursion I’d recommend Goree Island. If you’re on a one week break then this still gives you half your holiday to enjoy time on the beach and by the pool plus a late afternoon’s quad biking. Goree Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a short 30 minute ferry ride from Dakar’s main port is totally different from the mainland; you suddenly feel as though you’ve been transported to a Mediterranean island. The roads are narrow and the houses adorned with bougainvillea but it’s history you’re coming for, specifically the island’s role in the Atlantic slave trade. An old Slave House has been turned into a museum and offers a glimpse of the horrific conditions that were endured. There are no cars on Goree Island, making it an incredibly peaceful and easy place to walk around and reflect on the island’s sad past.

Quad bike tours (the French call them buggies) are available from all the main resort hotels. They’re safe and very easy to drive; that’s coming from someone who took 150 lessons before she passed her driving test. All sorts of rides are available from a relatively short two hours exploring the rough roads of the baobab forest and traditional bush villages, to a full day trip to Lake Rose. I wouldn’t recommend buggies in the heat of the day but they’re a great way of spending a late afternoon after a day on the beach, watching the sun set behind the curiously shaped baobab trees.

Lots of people get to back pack, travel and explore “off the beaten track” destinations in their gap year between school and uni. Once the taste of exotic travel is in your blood, it’s difficult to shake it off but work, family, 20 days of annual leave, and life in general takes over. However, this need not be the case and if you’re looking for a unique adventurous experience, some great photo opportunities as well as guaranteed sun but only have a week to spare and don’t want to fly too far, I’d highly recommend Senegal. Far from being a badly developed backwater, travellers will find welcoming people, numerous resorts, incredible beaches and a blossoming tourism industry.

Warmest of Welcomes in West Africa

Jane Labous - The Sunday Express — Sun, 10 May 2009 00:00:00 GMT

JANE LABOUS combines sunbathing at a Gambian resort with a 4x4 tour exploring the coast of neighbouring Senegal and visiting deserted islands.
A MAN PARADES a selection of extra-large men’s vests in front of me, and looks astonished when I shake my head. “But madame?” Men’s underwear isn’t the only thing I’m offered during my ferry ride across the river between Gambia and Senegal. There’s the water pistol, the scarlet satin skirts, the temptingly named Blue Feeling perfume, not to mention the ground millet (“makes you strong, madame!”), peanuts, matches and frozen bissap. I refuse all but the bissap, West Africa’s irresistible, all-natural version of Slush Puppie made from hibiscus flowers and sugar.
Gambia is a sliver of an English-speaking nation buried in Francophile Senegal.
By flying into Banjul and out of Dakar, Senegal’s capital, you can see both in one trip, combining sunbathing at one of Gambia’s Atlantic resorts with a 4x4 tour up the Senegalese coast. Both countries boast blue skies and sun, their cultures infused with a particular brand of West African flamboyance, music and cheerful opportunism.
In Banjul, the village-like capital of Gambia, Albert Market is a jigsaw of stalls selling pungent dried fish, rolls of tie-dyed cotton, cascades of vegetables and strange apothecary remedies for everything from impotence to headaches.
I’m staying at Ngala Lodge, a few miles outside Banjul on the stretch of blue Atlantic that the Gambians call the Smiling Coast. My room at the top of the old colonial mansion is furnished with wood carvings, a four-poster bed and a pair of spectacular orange curtains printed with the figure of an African woman. The balcony looks on to well-tended tropical gardens and, beyond, the ocean, where at sunset the smiling coast blushes rosy pink.
West Africans are proud of the “teranga”, or hospitality, that’s legendary in these parts.
When my guide Yamar and I reach the Senegalese border, the customs official nearly explodes with excitement when I attempt a few words of the native language. Heading north towards the Sine Saloum Delta, where the Sine and Saloum rivers meet the Atlantic, we cross flat plains dotted with baobabs, the giant trees with muscular, root-like branches, which can hold up to 1,000 gallons of water and live 3,000 years.
We enter the Palmarin region, where palm-fringed islands are scattered among “bolongs” or natural canals bordered by mangroves. Beneath the dome of white-hot sky the landscape is lush. Drifts of water lilies float beneath mango trees alive with birdsong and I spot ospreys, pelicans, weaver birds and the glamorous pink flash of a flock of flamingos.
Le Royal Lodge is the Delta’s most luxurious hotel, where I’m given my own “boutique version” of a mud hut with a spiralling bamboo roof, smooth red walls and all mod-cons. Most stunning are the bedspreads, chairs, lamps and curtains made from earth-printed Malian fabric in black and brown patterns.
During the day I visit uninhabited Sangomar Island. Afterwards, fisherman Bachir navigates our painted boat through the mangroves, pointing out the oysters growing on the roots and the tiny, single-pincer “violin crabs”.
Along the coast is Saly, Senegal’s most popular resort. I’m staying at the Lamantin Hotel, a serene place with air-conditioned rooms. On the crescent of white beach, the waitress brings chilled watermelon and families whizz about the calm bay on jet skis. The breakfast buffet is resplendent with baobab and bissap jams, fresh croissants and mangoes, while the evening spread features Senegalese dishes, from salted sea bass to marinated sardines.
Dakar is just 90 minutes from Saly. The battered yellow and blue minibuses that form its intercity service trundle along streets crowded with boys selling oranges from wheelbarrows and stately Senegalese ladies in vivid boubous, West Africa’s traditional dress. The country’s most famous musician, Youssou N’Dour, lives near my hotel, the Madrague in Ngor, on the coastal outskirts of the city. It’s a tranquil area; boys play football on the beach, goats drift among the sunseekers and a holiday atmosphere prevails.
Best of all is the painted fishing boat taking tourists across the bay to Ngor island, which costs just 50p. Here you can dine royally on thièbu dieun, Senegal’s national dish of rice and fish, for £3, or laze beneath a parasol. You might even be lucky enough to catch one of the rastafarians playing his “djembe” hand drum and when the lady trying to sell you a necklace starts dancing instead, you know you’re in West Africa.

GETTING THERE
The Gambia Experience / The Senegal Experience (0845 338 8706 / www.senegal.co.uk) offers an eight-night, twin-centre Gambia and Senegal holiday from £1,332pp (two sharing), including four nights B&B at Ngala Lodge in the Gambia, four nights half-board at Le Royal Lodge in Senegal and return flights from Gatwick.

A one-day Islands and Waterways of Saloum tour is from £84 for two people.

Gambia Tourism Authority: www.visitthegambia.gm Senegal Tourist Office: www.senegal-tourism.com

Timeless Tranquility

Dave Goodban - Chester Chronicle — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We have a saying here, our guide Monty tells me – in perfect English – on our second night in French-speaking Senegal. “In Europe they are always running after the time. In Africa we let the time run after us.” I hadn’t known what to expect from a trip to the West African coast. Scorching sun? Check. Palm trees? Check. Picturesque beaches and luxurious hotels? Check. Just like plenty of other holiday destinations frequented by British tourists then? Not quite.
The holiday – sorry, work trip – turned out to be everything I hadn’t expected and more. But there is much more to Senegal than what you see in the brochures. The country is becoming increasingly popular with European holidaymakers, but remains largely undiscovered by British tourists, who have been visiting neighbouring Gambia in their droves for more than a decade. The heavily-starred hotels in the resorts of Saly and Sine Saloum, which all have private beaches, can offer serenity and solitude, and the perfect place for an idyllic, peaceful getaway. But it doesn’t have to be all tranquillity.
After our first night at the spectacular 5* Lamantin Beach Hotel in Saly, roughly 50 miles from the capital Dakar, the trip slipped into second gear as a convoy of excited schoolchildren pretending to be journalists set off in motorised buggies on a intrepid exploration through coastal villages and arid bush and across vast sandy plains.
We ended up at the stunning, secluded Bouba beach – worthy of gracing any postcard. A five-year drought from 1968-73 devastated the landscape and wiped out much of Senegal’s native wildlife. But the Bandia Nature Reserve, a short drive from Saly, has slowly reintroduced animals to the country by importing them from other parts of Africa and now boasts giraffes, monkeys, rhinos, and zebras, all wandering free in a natural environment. A far cry from seeing oversized animals crammed into undersized pens in European zoos.
The delightful Tama Lodge hotel, where accommodation comes in the form of a smattering of impressive beach huts, provided the setting for an exquisite seafood lunch on day two of the Senegal experience. Afterwards, we set off for our second hotel – the charming 4* Hotel Espadon. Although perhaps not as luxurious of the Lamantin, the Espadon offers a unique homely atmosphere perfect for families. It has three bars, a fishing centre, and even has its own pet – a pelican called Popsy!
A trip to the traditional Ndiaganiao market on our third morning provided a real glimpse into what everyday life entails for many natives. The men, women and children trading everything from clothes and crayons to soap and spices was a sight to behold, but the afternoon provided the trip’s real eye-opener.
The tiny village of Gour, near Sine Saloum, consists of a handful of huts and only basic facilities – a simple life and a humbling experience seeing the delight on the faces of the children receiving gifts our Western group take for granted as everyday essentials.
Our final overnight stay was at Le Royal Lodge in Sine Saloum, about 50km south of Saly – another 5* and one of most stunning and luxurious hotels I’ve ever had the fortune to stay at. In keeping with the laid back attitude we’d come to expect during our short visit to Senegal, the hotel’s French owner and manager David Lefebvre doesn’t even wear a watch. His staff will respond to your every whim and guests can eat, drink and be merry at whatever time of the day or night they like. The huge suite-like rooms all have a television, mini-bar, spacious sitting area inside and a private balcony outside. Oh yes – and all the rooms have their own jacuzzi in the bathroom.
Our final excursion was a flying visit to the tiny island of Goree, an UNESCO World Heritage Site and former slave trading port with 1,200 inhabitants and not a single car. A visit to the slavery museum, where children as young as six were held before being traded in the 16th century, provided a poignant and stark reminder of the comparative luxury we had left behind in Britain.
On the short journey back from the island to Dakar I thought about what British holidaymakers would make of Senegal. If you’re after an exotic, but affordable break with a difference, look no further. But you might want to leave your watch at home.

■ Dave Goodban travelled with The Senegal Experience, the UK's only specialist tour operator to Senegal. Seven-night holidays start at £749 and all prices include half-board accommodation and return flights with Brussels Airlines from Birmingham, Manchester or Gatwick (via Brussels).
The reservations team can be contacted on 0845 3388706, or you can order a brochure online at www.senegal.co.uk.

Beach to their own

James O'Donnell - Cloud Nine Magazine — Wed, 28 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal - a unique winter sun retreat away from the masses, ideal for a cultural break off the beaten track or just lazing under a tropical sun on pristine beaches free from the mass-market throng.

Colourful Senegal a new paradise found

Andy Richardson - Express & Star — Tue, 20 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Andy Richardson takes a walk on the wildside in Senegal

SENEGAL – is it Italy?
One friend asked me before I headed out to discover the delights of the West African country. French speaking Senegal has remained relatively untouched and unknown to the British holidaymaker who has travelled to nearby Gambia over years gone by to experience the delights of an African beach holiday.

But the status quo is set to change as travel company Serenity Holidays has decided to add the destination to its brochure as part of its Senegal experience.

I was given the opportunity to discover for myself the delights of the country with a group of journalists and I wasn’t to be left disappointed during a breathtaking five-day tour.

Initially flying out to Brussels from Birmingham International Airport with Brussels Airlines, we then changed flights to board our journey to the city of Dakar.

The journey from Dakar to the holiday resort of Saly where we were staying for our first night was quite a surreal and memorable experience as our coach hit the rush hour. I have never enjoyed being stuck in traffic so much as I watched the multicoloured buses and camper vans with people hanging off the back and goats strapped to the top of the vehicles make their way out of Dakar. Everywhere you looked there was another surreal moment from African life.

Our first stop was the five star Lamantin Beach Hotel. After a wonderful welcome by the staff we were shown to our accommodation, which was, a traditional African style two-storey bungalow situated amongst colourful, manicured gardens. The rooms are fully air conditioned, and are large, bright and airy and each has its own terrace. There is a superb pool which you can enjoy during the day or sample the delights of the hotel’s own private beach. I thought I had discovered paradise. Little was I to know the best was yet to come.

Having secured a good night‚s sleep in my luxurious bungalow the following morning we embarked on our first activity of the trip – an adrenalin pumping off road buggy adventure. It was a thrilling off-road drive through the bush where we were greeted by the friendly villagers along the way. Our oasis at the end of the tour adventure was a beach bar, which served a delicious chicken, rice and soup dinner. After a quick game of football on the beach we were back in our buggies for another adventure across the bush.

At night we went to one of the Saly nightspots to enjoy drinks with the locals and to dance the night away.

When I didn’t think things could get much better the following day, we were taken to the Bandia Nature Reserve for a tour of the wildlife park. Senegal suffered a huge drought during the 1970s, which drove many of the animals such as big cats, giraffe and antelope out of the country. Now environmentalists are introducing some of the animals back into Senegal from other African countries.

During our fascinating adventure in the national park we saw rhinoceros, zebra, giraffes, ostrich, antelopes and crocodiles. Then we enjoyed a splendid lunch at Tama Lodge hotel, with its superb fish dishes. We then headed off to our next hotel – the four-star Espadon close to the heart of Saly.

Hotel Espadon is simply fantastic. The rooms are arranged in a cluster of two-storey, traditional style bungalows, nestled among the palm trees. Once again the hotel has its own sandy beach and the eye-catching Le Ponton bar, which is reached to by a jetty. The hotel even has its own pet pelican called Popsi, which flew in to the bay 10 years ago and liked it so much it stayed walking to the poolside bar at night to sleep.

The following day we sampled some of the local culture and headed to Sine Saloum and to the market Ndiagnio. There we bought rice, soap, books and stationery then headed to Mbour Village to distribute them to the villagers. Although I had enjoyed fantastic activities during my trip, handing gifts to villagers and seeing the joy on their faces ranked on an equal par.

We enjoyed lunch at Souimanga Lodge before heading off to our next destination. All along the journey what struck me was the country‚s vast richness of scenery from fabulous beaches to coastal lagoons and waterways, which provide a rich array of wildlife.

We then drove on to the five-star Le Royal Lodge for our final night. Now when I was told they were saving the best to last they weren’t joking. Le Royal Lodge is simply paradise on earth if you want to impress that special someone this is the hotel to visit. The hotel is nestled on the outskirts of the Saloum Delta National Park. On arrival you are whisked away in a buggy to be taken to your room. Now when I say room I should really say house. This is no ordinary room. Relax in the suite’s jacuzzi before enjoying a drink on your own private terrace. Each suite has a large bedroom with a bed fit for a king and its own separate lounge. Your suite is only yards from a glorious beach. Back in the main hotel you can take a dip in the magnificent pool and swim up to the Pelican cocktail bar for a couple of afternoon beverages.

With great reluctance we left Le Royal Lodge the following day, which was also sadly to be our final day. We headed back to Dakar where we sailed over to the historic and infamous Goree Island which is a former slave trading port and is certainly a must visit for any visitor to Senegal. On arrival you are bombarded by street sellers trying to sell anything from jewellery to animal carvings. The sellers can be aggressive at times but if you are after a souvenir to take home you can certainly get a bargain if you are prepared to barter.

Catching the ferry back to Dakar, it was with a heavy heart that I said a final farewell to Senegal.

FACT BOX
Andy travelled with The Senegal Experience which offer flights with Brussels Airlines from Birmingham. Contact0845 338 8706 or www.senegal.co.uk
Prices start from £699 per person, based on seven nights half-board at Hotel Royam in Saly and includes return flights, transfers and taxes.

The face of new Africa

Katie Jarvis - Cotswold Life — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Katie Jarvis falls in love with Senegal and discovers the variety of activities on offer.

Winter Warmers For All

Ben Hall - The Sunday Express — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

SENEGAL SERENADE
Visiting new destinations ahead of the pack is not only a pleasure but one bound to impress when people ask where you managed to get such a cool off-season tan. This winter’s newcomer is the old French West African colony of Senegal which, compared with the neighbouring Gambia, is barely known to Brits. The weather is ideal, while those looking for something other than beaches and watersports will find exotic birdlife, French colonial heritage and music everywhere (Senegal is the home country of Youssou N’Dour).
* Senegal Experience (0845 330 2080/www.senegal.co.uk) offers seven nights’ half-board at the Lamantin Beach Hotel from £919pp (two sharing), including return flights from Gatwick, Manchester or Birmingham.

Why Senegal is now on the winter sun map

Jill Crawshaw - The Observer — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

As bright as butterflies in their billowing boubous, long iridescent pink, blue, and lime green gowns of satin and lace, a clutch of women sat gossiping on the sands of Kayar, Senegal's chief fishing port. The men struggled to haul their boats ashore out of the crashing waves while children darted about.

I soon became the focus of the women's attention: 'Where is your husband? How many wives has he?' asked one of them in a mix of Wolof, her own language, and fractured French. 'How many children have you? I have nine, you take one of mine,' pretending to hand over the pretty little girl she was holding. 'Are you French? English? Where is that?'

As I said my au revoirs, they all began to shake with mirth and my guide explained apologetically: 'They are laughing at your clothes. However poor they are they would never be seen outside their homes in anything but their finery. It's a status thing.' So much for my trendy cut-offs and new linen shirt.

The ladies of Kayar clearly had as little knowledge of the UK as most Brits have of Senegal. Hopefully, this might soon change; tour operator The Senegal Experience, whose parent company successfully launched holidays to The Gambia more than 20 years ago, has put its neighbour on the British holiday map this winter with a schedule of flights to Dakar via Brussels and hotels based around the beach resort of Saly and in the Sine Saloum Delta.

Bordered by Mauritania, Mali, Guinea and Guinea-Bissau and encircling The Gambia, the former French colony gained independence in 1960. It is among the poorest countries in the world, though one of the most stable, democratic and tolerant in West Africa. It also helps in the tourism stakes that there is no jetlag from the UK as it is on GMT and it is among the cheaper winter sun destinations. Most deals include excellent full- or half-board accommodation.

Our pioneering group of holidaymakers were on only the second departure from the UK and none of us had any idea what to expect. Within 30 minutes of leaving the airport to travel to our various hotels through the outskirts of steamy Dakar, we were treated to an instant kaleidoscope of life in West Africa, the roadsides one long continuous market heaped with oranges, melons, clothing, hubcaps, bicycle sprockets, some even offering dental services. Among the dust and rubble, exquisitely dressed women, the married ladies in headscarves and single ones often wearing wigs of straight black hair (there were far fewer veils than in London), picked an elegant path, while young men strutted their stuff in hip T-shirts and jeans.

Our minibus threaded its way through wandering vendors, huge potholes and 'bush taxis', a euphemism for the cheerfully decorated rickety vehicles, their interiors packed with villagers returning home, roofs piled with everything from live sheep to three-piece suites. At one stage the driver of the taxi in front of us stopped suddenly and leaped out to separate two lads scrapping at the side of the road; his passengers cheered him on.

'Welcome to Senegal,' said our guide as he filled us in on his country's customs and culture en route. He also pointed out a 'voodoo village' or ndeup, where patients with psychiatric problems go to be healed, partly by music, and sacred baobab trees where storytellers have traditionally been buried.

Ninety per cent of the population practises a unique version of Islam in which Muslim marabouts (leaders) and brotherhoods carry much of the political and economic clout - but under the skin you feel that the heartbeat of an ancient Africa is never far away.

Most of the beach hotels are on the gentle Petite Côte around the cosmopolitan resort of Saly, a long-established favourite for Belgian and French sunseekers and packed with international restaurants, galleries, nightclubs and supermarkets - I even spotted a Rolls-Royce Club.

Silvery Atlantic ripples lap its pale golden sands which are patrolled by security guards to curb the enthusiasm of the vendors, and the resort has an array of watersports ranging from windsurfing to deep sea fishing.

My hotel, the Lamantin Beach, offered five-star comforts with superb seafood buffets, home-made breads and gargantuan breakfasts. Its young staff are friendly and eager to practise their English for the arrival of British newcomers. 'Perhaps I can have a little conversation with you later?' said my waitress Aimee in quaint textbook English. Her French was fluent.

In the mid-19th-century carve-up of Africa, France helped herself to Senegal while the British settled for the lilliputian Gambia, which somewhat ludicrously slices Senegal into two. Both colonial powers profited from the slave trade and, after that was abolished, from the export of peanuts. But despite echoes of the French occupation - in the language, cuisine and sense of fashion - the French influence is waning as Senegal looks more towards China and South America. No coincidence then that I had shared the flight from Brussels with more than 100 Chinese labourers, all issued with identical kit bags and sleeping mats on arrival - to work on the roads or the rice fields.

While most resort hotels are thoroughly westernised, few of the excursions can be described as picture-book tourist fodder - though for me that made them no less interesting.

One of the 'must sees' of the Ile de Gorée just outside Dakar is the Maison des Esclaves, where slaves awaiting deportation were kept in dungeons under warehouses surrounded by the mansions of the French merchants.

On the Grande Côte I visited Lac Rose, Senegal's Dead Sea, its pink hue the result of a high concentration of minerals; local men stand for hours in the saline water collecting salt which the women then bag - at €1 per 25kg sack. It was the only place where I was besieged by souvenir sellers - and considering the bleakness of their surroundings and employment prospects, you can hardly blame them.

The lake is also the finishing line for the Paris-Dakar motor rally; you can stage your own rollercoaster rally by 4x4 on monster sand dunes nearby and then drive along the firm breezy sands of the Atlantic coast, utterly desolate apart from wheeling cormorants, terns and sea eagles. No developer will ever be able to build hotels on these glorious beaches - the waves are far too dangerous.

On another excursion my guide Yamar, who speaks fluent English, French and several tribal tongues, drove me deep into the bush, the relentlessly flat savannah punctuated only by flat-topped acacias and thousand-year-old baobab trees. In the fields women harvested peanuts by beating them with sticks.

When we reached the tiny farming community of Gnignig, I was introduced to the headman who invited me to visit the compound he shares with 17 relatives; it's a collection of thatched huts (his own has a corrugated iron roof) with a communal bucket shower and a wooden shrine to his ancestors. There is no electricity, no running water.

For a few moments the women and children sitting in the shade of a tree and I gazed at each other silently, separated by an abyss of communication and culture. Then, in a flash of inspiration, thanks to my football-mad sons, I scored. 'Diouf,' I dredged up the name from memories of conversations about the Senegalese soccer stars who play in our Premiership. The floodgates opened: 'Beckham, Lampard, Michael Owen,' they shouted back at me.

I used the same ploy when I met the pupils of the primary school, L'Ecole Mbafaya Sandock, a breezeblock construction for six- to 14-year-olds, where there can be up to 80 in a class. The top class, however, were quietly studying the complexities of volume and density in French. The only classroom aids were a blackboard and chalk - and the latter was in short supply.

'My girls are good keen students,' said their teacher Karamba Bayo, 'but not all the boys,' he looked sternly at two reprobates sitting in the front of the class. They grinned at me, unabashed and curious - I was the first Brit they'd ever met. Humbled, I handed over pencils, rubbers and pens I'd brought from the UK and wished I'd added exercise books, crayons and chalk. Schooling is free but parents must pay for all extras.

The star attraction in Senegal is the Sine Saloum Delta, 180,000 hectares of labyrinthine watery wilderness made up of limpid lagoons, shimmering salt plains, sandy spits, tangled mangroves and bolongs, hidden creeks and estuaries which are home to a rich collection of wildlife from pelicans and flamingos (there are 600 bird species in the country) to manatees and the occasional dolphin. Haunting and mysterious, it seemed a privilege to intrude on this world.

I explored its magic in a pirogue with wildlife expert Bashir who identified pied kingfishers for me, herons hiding in the mangroves and tiny oysters and mussels clinging to the mangrove roots. For three months each year local women move into the little shell mounds in the delta to smoke and dry the oysters, leaving their shells to form new islets: recent research has shown that their ancestors have probably been doing the same for thousands of years.

Boatman Babou had his own priorities. At every stop, rather than let me wade ashore, he lifted me out as if I were as light as a feather (I'm not). It turned out he was in training for the local wrestling contest; wrestling is one of the most popular sports in Senegal.

You can visit the delta from the five-star Royal Lodge, set on a peerless beach nearby and oozing luxury. You can also stay in a couple of tiny and highly imaginative eco-lodges, simple but stylish, with all the necessary mod cons plus pools and views to die for. The Lodge des Collines, on a shell mound in a grove of palm and tamarind trees, is the brainchild of French woman Sylvie Gaborit, with accommodation consisting of a pair of tree houses which wrap themselves around the branches of huge baobabs, three water bungalows on stilts and adobe cottages, all furnished in local style.

I was lucky enough to spend a night at Souimanga Lodge (souimanga means sunbird) where French owner Denis Mencière lives out his dream. Here at dawn I was woken by an orchestra of terns and pelicans, herons, avocets, cormorants and egrets. I spent a lazy day watching hornbills feeding their young, gaudy finches and weavers dipping in the pool, and tiny bee-eaters quivering among dusky pink hibiscus blossoms. Towards sunset I sipped a hibiscus juice and sat spellbound as egrets returned in their hundreds to roost, wishing I could have holed up there for the winter.

The 60-second guide to Senegal
Location
Senegal is on the west coast of Africa, with Mauritania to the north, Mali to the east, and Guinea and Guinea-Bissau to the south. The Gambia is surrounded almost entirely by Senegal, stretching 300km inland from its western coastline.

Government
There are an incredible 80 political parties, and Senegal has one of the most successful democratic cultures in Africa. It is a republic, with presidential elections every five years. However, religous leaders also exercise strong political influence.

Language
Many languages are spoken due to the different ethnic groups which make up the population of 11 million. Around 43 per cent of people speak Wolof and in many areas, particularly the capital, Dakar, this is the main language. However, there are colonial links to France and a sizeable expatriate population. The official language is French.

Climate
Senegal has well-defined seasons, with most of the rainfall occurring between June and October, when temperatures are at their hottest. Temperatures are at their coolest (a minimum of around 63F) between December and February, but they differ widely between the coast and inland.

Religion
Islam is by far the biggest religion; approximately 95 per cent of the population are practising Muslims. Many children are educated in formal Koranic schools (a daara), where much time is spent memorising as much of the Koran as possible.

Food
There is a strong French influence in Senegalese food; rich chicken and fish casseroles, served with piles of couscous and rice. Roasted peanuts - one of the country's biggest crops - are everywhere.

Health
Yellow-fever innoculations and malaria tablets are both necessary for travel in Senegal.

Is it safe?
The Foreign Office classes Senegal as 'generally calm and stable', although it advises against road travel in the Casamance region south of the Gambia due to landmines and some fighting with rebels.

Essentials
Jill Crawshaw travelled with The Senegal Experience (0845 338 8706; senegal.co.uk). Seven-night holidays start at £799. A week at the five-star Lamantin Beach Hotel starts at £919. A seven-night stay combining the Royal Lodge and a tree house at the Lodge des Collines starts at £1,154. Trips combining four nights at Souimanga Lodge and four at the Coconut Residence in Gambia, cost £1,322. All prices include half-board and flights with Brussels Airlines.

Senegal has so much to offer tourists

Peter Kennedy - The Solihull Times — Wed, 10 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Peter Kennedy considers Bandia Nature Reserve a highlight and is impressed with the quality of the hotels that he visits.

A warm welcome from Senegal

Shahid Naqvi - Birmingham Post — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Africa. Cradle of humanity. Home to one seventh of the world’s population and a fifth of its total land area.

Up until now the nearest I’ve got to the great continent has been BBC wildlife documentaries, Bob Geldof and that song by Toto.

All that changed recently, however, following a trip to Senegal.

Of course, one country with a population of 11 million can not be representative of a land mass made up of 61 nations and 922 million people.

But the former French colony is stable, keen to promote itself to Western tourists and therefore a good place to start.

Its west coast location will already be familiar to some Brits who have visited the ex-British colony of The Gambia. Senegal is a bigger country with a different history and its French connection means, if nothing else, you can get a decent cup of coffee.

The journey out from Birmingham requires a short hop to Brussels before boarding a six-hour flight to the capital city of Dakar. But the good news is unlike other popular long haul winter sun destinations, Senegal is on the same time zone as Britain between the tourist season of November to April, meaning no jet lag to contend with.

Stepping off the plane at Dakar airport the first thing to hit home is the heat – 32°C is something of a contrast to the single figure temperature in Britain.

Luckily, though, it was the end of the rainy season, which runs between July and October, meaning it’s a dry heat which you adjust to surprisingly quickly.

The second thing that strikes the senses in the hordes of people walking on the motorway on the drive south to the holiday resorts of Saly about 50 miles out. It felt as if Dakar’s entire population of two million was spreading out from the city the entire length of the journey.

Among the many sights you wouldn’t ever expect to see on the M6 was a goat strapped to the roof of a car.

Arriving at Saly’s “most luxurious hotel”, the Lamantin Beach provides just the kind of escape from the maddening crowds you’d want after more than 12 hours’ travel.
This was the first example of Senegal’s Government-controlled bid to capitalise on the lucrative Western tourism market.

Though the country’s climate, attractive beaches and decent standard hotels have been familiar to people from other parts of Europe, it’s a relatively new destination to British holidaymakers.
The five star Lamantin Beach offers the kind of standard of luxury many western tourists have come to expect with good food, quality wine and a spa. In addition, there’s a private sandy beach and – best of all – warm tropical waters to swim in.

A far cry from my last buttock-clenching dip in the sea off the Cornish coast this summer. There are a string of similar hotels along the coast. In Saly we also visited the four star Hotel Espadon which features a bar built on a jetty and the boutique-style Tama Lodge.

Further south in Sine Saloum is the sleepy Delta de Niominka, accessed by boat, and the marvellous Lodge des Collines de Niassam – one of the world’s most unusual hotels with rooms built into trees overlooking a lagoon.

But perhaps best of all was the luxurious Le Royal Lodge which has 28 beautifully appointed hut-style suites all of which contain a sunken jacuzzi!

Away from the pampered hotel world, there are a number of ways to explore Senegal. One of the most fun is heading out into the countryside on a souped-up golfing buggy-type vehicle where you get to see sights such as a massive ant hill, a crab-infested lake and local villages.
We also visited a colourful local market where we bought supplies to pass on to villagers living a traditional rural life. Though on the edge of poverty, it was impossible not to be struck by their sense of community, humour and spirit. Something that was underlined many times during our visit.

Saly also boasts the Bandia Nature Reserve, where a trip on the back of a jeep will bring you into close proximity to wild rhino, giraffes, zebras and various other animals native to Africa.
Visitors to Senegal should also make an effort to visit the famous Gorée Island – once a staging post for the transportation of slaves to America and Europe. It’s a moving experience, though watch out for the super-persistent street hawkers!

Senegal may have bugs the size of a small child’s hand, but for the more adventurous tourist the country offers a memorable holiday experience. And a great introduction to the Africa.

Factfile

The Senegal Experience is the UK’s only specialist tour operator to Senegal and offer flights with Brussels Airlines from Birmingham, Manchester and Gatwick. Visit www.senegal.co.uk
November to April is the main holiday season during which temperatures range from 32° to 27°C
Prices go from £699 per person for a week’s half board including flight (at the 3½ star Hotel Royam) to £1,266 (at the 5-star Le Royal Lodge).
Flights leave Birmingham on Wednesday and Saturdays at 6.30am and arrive in Senegal at 4.30pm

Julie Vasey enjoys 'The Senegal Experience'

Julie Vasey - Live24Seven Magazine — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:00:00 GMT

Senegal Experience proves a trip of a lifetime

Gurdip Thandi - Birmingham Mail — Wed, 26 Nov 2008 00:00:00 GMT

IT wasn’t the best of starts. Going to Senegal without sunblock, insect repellent, shorts or flip flops at the hottest time of the year was not the smartest move I’ve ever made.

Throw in the lack of a non-compulsory but allegedly highly recommended yellow fever jab and surely I’d have been forgiven for thinking this was set to be a holiday from hell.

But the beauty of my visit to west Africa was that, despite these omissions, it turned out to be exactly the sort of trip of a lifetime you’d see advertised in a brochure.

Our group sampled The Senegal Experience, which gave us a whistle-stop tour of some of the activities and hotels on offer in this delightful West African country.

There were so many breathtaking sights that I’m surprised that I avoided the need for oxygen therapy.

Senegal remains largely undiscovered by British holidaymakers, despite it being popular with other Europeans.

The first hotel we stopped off at was the luxurious Lamantin Beach Hotel, which is in the resort of Saly, around 50 miles south of the city of Dakar, where we flew into.

And it isn’t long before you see exactly how it has earned each and every one of its five stars. It boasts gorgeous rooms set in two-story low-level buildings, three restaurants, offering a range of food, a spa and did I mention a private beach?

I was actually worried about having such a fantastic start to my trip as I feared the rest could end up an anti-climax. But those fears were soon blown out of the clear blue Senegalese water.

On our second day we were treated to an activity which sounded like great fun on paper but turned out to be far better than I ever could have imagined. Going for a buggy ride through Saly villages and the bush before ending up on a beach bar for lunch.

After a few early nervy moments, I soon got to grips with my motorised buggy and was able to pretend I was Lewis Hamilton, even if I barely clocked up more than 40 mph. Truly exhilarating, even if we were left covered in mud and sand!

Having enjoyed another delicious meal in one of the restaurants, we left the hotel and sampled a Saly nightclub where the locals were friendly and interested only in having fun. We were even treated to some freestyle breakdancing to top off a great night.

It was with a heavy heart we left Lamantin but we hadn’t reckoned on the further delights that were to follow. The first of which was the incredible Bandia nature reserve.

Following a five-year drought in the early 1970s, Senegal lost most of its wildlife including big cats, giraffes and antelope but Bandia now seeks to reintroduce these animals by importing them from other African countries.

Seeing them roam around freely in a huge wildlife park is a wonderful experience and having been just a few feet away from rhinos, zebra, giraffes and ostriches I don’t think I will ever be able to visit a zoo again.

Lunch was taken at a real gem of a place, the Tama Lodge, just outside Saly, where the vibe was so laid back that I’m surprised I didn’t end up fast asleep on the soft sand.

Our next overnight stop was spent at the charming Hotel Espadon which, amongst other things, boasts its own resident pelican, Popsi!

Again, like virtually all the hotels in Senegal, it has its own beach, as well as not one, not two but three fabulous bars and a fishing centre.

While the emphasis of The Senegal Experience so far had been on fun and luxury, the following morning saw us take part in a very different but immensely worthwhile venture.

After leaving Espadon, we headed to Sine Saloum and, in particular, the traditional Ndiaganio market where we saw friendly and hardworking Senegalese grafting to earn a living.

Having purchased essentials such as rice, soap, books and stationery, we paid a visit to the nearby Gour village to hand the goodies out to local children. It was an incredible feeling being mobbed as if I was a rock star and seeing the smiling, happy faces as we came bearing gifts.

They may seem to live more simple lives than us and have a lot less, but they sure look happy. A sobering thought for a Western journalist who would be lost without his laptop.

We took lunch in the glorious Souimanga Lodge before heading off for our final hotel, the Royal Lodge. I truly believed they had made a mistake with my room. Well, I say room as it was more like a one-bedroomed bungalow, complete with its own jacuzzi!

And get this. ALL the rooms at the Royal Lodge have a jacuzzi. If you want to feel like a true VIP, then check yourself in here. As we checked out the next morning, staff gave each of us a ‘Juju’ necklace to wish us good luck and a safe trip home. A lovely touch.

Our final excursion for The Senegal Experience provided a mixed bag of emotions. Having returned to Dakar, we boarded a ferry and travelled out to the delightful Goree Island.

And if the journey seemed like a delight itself, my first view of the island, which is only 28 hectares in area, was amazing.

It features colonial style housing and has no cars. It does, however, have hard-selling market traders who will follow you around all day to secure a sale. But even they had a certain charm about them and they are open to intense bartering. I walked away with a wood carving of a giraffe for 20 Euros below the original asking price. Result!

But all these features are put into stark perspective when you visit a former slave trading station that is based on the island. Millions of slaves were brought to Goree with the aim of being shipped around the world during a 300-year period from the 16th century.

Seeing the squalid rooms that have been maintained for visitors to see was a poignant moment. Senegal will not let anyone forget how millions of people lost their lives and, quite rightfully, marks the end of slavery.

While the country’s general beauty is obvious and will delight tourists, visiting Goree Island and the trading station in particular, is educational and a must.

It was with a heavy heart I left Senegal. Prior to the trip I knew precious little about the place but, as I boarded the plane, I realised I didn’t want it to end.

The Senegal Experience is a real eye-opener. Even the most ill-prepared visitor will enjoy the trip of a lifetime. Trust me!

Double delight

Diarmuid Macdonagh - The Senegal Experience — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

THINK African holidays and the usual suspects leap to mind – safaris, the cities and beaches of Morocco and Tunisia, cruises on the Nile and the ancient wonders of Egypt.

Gambia has become popular in recent years, although its neighbour Senegal will barely register on most holidaymakers’ lists of prospective destinations.

But Senegal has been luring European visitors for decades and now it is the turn of the British to explore this fascinating country of the west coast of the dark continent.

Serenity Holidays has just launched its first-ever dedicated Senegal Experience brochure.

Serenity can tailor the holiday to your requirements, allowing you to spend some time in the Gambia and Senegal. The two countries have much in common, but the former was a British colony, while the influence of the French is evident everywhere in Senegal.

After spending a night in the luxurious Ngala Lodge in Gambia, I was up early for the trip to Senegal – and the journey itself was breathtaking.

Clambering into a 4x4 we headed for the ferry across the Gambia River. The bustling crowds vied for space with army trucks and heavily laden lorries, cars and livestock, but the passage was smooth enough.

The same could not be said of the roads as we headed for the border and beyond. We spent more time off-road as much of the “highway” had been washed away and a huge EU-funded re-building programme was under way.

But there was something wonderfully liberating about the journey as we swept along, alternating between road and salt plain, scrubland and road again as the sun beat down.

We headed north for a heady six hours until we reached the spectacular Le Royal Lodge, which sits alone on a beautiful beach on the northern fringes of the Sine Saloum Delta, exuding luxury, with 28 suites with top-class fittings and exquisite detailing.

With the focus on quality, relaxation and tranquillity, the Royal Lodge does not go in for loud entertainment but can arrange excursions into the surrounding areas, fishing or birdwatching trips.

It is a state-of-the-art beach resort with an infinity pool, swim-up bar and stunning beachfront location – but it would be criminal to travel all this way just to lounge by the pool. The scenery is breathtaking and ever changing, and the area is rich in wildlife.

Close by is another hotel in a spectacular setting. Lodge des Collines, built by a French couple, is an eco-friendly lodge nestled on a tributary of the Saloum. It offers a series of stunning rooms, from tree-houses built into the baobabs and low huts on stilts over the river to adobe-like bungalows carved into the small hill on which the lodge is situated.

Joal-Fadiout is a village at the southern end of the Petite Côte of Senegal. Joal lies on the mainland, and is well worth visiting for the incredible expanse of fish smokeries and busy harbour. Fadiout, linked by a bridge, lies on an island of clam shells, and is universally known as Shell Island. It is also the birthplace of the first president of Senegal.

The island has a mixed Christian and Muslim population, with cemeteries side by side on an adjoining island.

You can also visit the animal reserve at Bandia, where you can see a wide variety of typical African savannah animals including giraffes, white rhinos, waterbucks, forest buffalos, wart hogs, crocodiles and several species of monkey.

We headed back south again towards the border to spend a few days in the heart of the Sine Saloum Delta. This is a vast 180,000-hectare area that encompasses a national park.

Formed where two rivers converge, it’s a region of great diversity consisting of a unique estuarine environment, glorious beaches, mangrove swamps and sand islands.

The Keur Saloum Hotel is perfectly placed on the banks of the river with mangroves stretching into the distance. Set among the well-kept grounds are 48 African-style round bungalows with air-conditioning and en-suite facilities. A recent addition has been six luxurious new suites in a fantastic location overlooking the jetty and the river.

The hotel also has its own pool and tennis court. It has been attracting anglers and birdwatchers for many years, but even if you’re not tempted to try either pursuit, a trip aboard a traditional pirogue is a must.

I headed off with the hotel’s boatmen to explore the mangroves and stopped at a riverside village that has probably changed little over many generations.

Toubakouta lies on the hotel’s doorstep and offers some pleasant places to eat, but the hotel itself has a great open-plan bar and restaurant serving great fresh food.

Again, although the hotel has a great deal to offer, a holiday here is all about getting out and exploring the area and meeting the people.

The region is magical, and quite unlike anything you will have experienced before.

If you want a more traditional beach resort holiday Senegal Experience is expanding its repertoire this year and the area around Saly, around 40 miles north of the delta, is well established, having attracted French and Belgian holidaymakers for many years.

But it was time for me to head south again and back to the Gambia for the last few days of my two-country experience.

I returned to the sumptuous surroundings of Ngala Lodge, a hotel that really is the archetypal oasis of calm amid the hustle and bustle of this part of the country.

The emphasis here is very much on individual service, and the restaurant is renowned as one of the best in the country.

The main building of Ngala Lodge was originally a colonial mansion and the grandeur of the area is still very much in evidence.

Ngala enjoys a magnificent setting looking out from its cliff-top position across the swimming pool and gardens to the ocean beyond.

The area boasts some top-class restaurants, great beach bars and the lively Senegambia Strip offers some good bars and a few clubs.

Factfile

Senegal Experience offers seven nights at Keur Saloum from £832 per person, based on two sharing a room, half-board, including return flights (Gatwick-Banjul), transfers and all taxes and fuel surcharges. The company also offers seven nights at Le Royal Lodge from £1,158 per person, based on two sharing a suite, half-board, including return flights (Gatwick-Dakar), transfers and all taxes and fuel surcharges. Call Senegal Experience on 0845 338 8706 or visit senegal.co.uk
Gambia Experience/Senegal Experience offers a twin-centre holiday incorporating three nights at Ngala Lodge and four nights at Keur Saloum from £2,032 per person, including flights. Also seven nights at Ngala Lodge from £839 per person, based on two sharing a suite, including breakfast, return flights (Gatwick–Banjul), transfers and all taxes.
Call Gambia Experience on 0845 330 2087 or visit gambia.co.uk

AITO adopts new green travel ratings

Oliver Smith - The Senegal Experience — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 00:00:00 GMT

UK organisation has revised its Responsible Tourism ratings in an effort to encourage eco-friendly travel.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) has revised its Responsible Tourism Star classification system.

AITO, which encourages a commitment to green travel among its members, has altered the number of points awarded to certain areas such as destination activities and carbon reduction.

Previously, its ratings system ranged from one to three stars. The revamped questionnaire will rate eco-friendly travel operators from one to five stars.

"We hope that through the increased emphasis on destination activities, members will be encouraged to work more closely with local communities," said Roger Diski, founder of Rainbow Tours and the Chairman of AITO's Responsible Tourism committee.

An AITO spokesman said that the new classifications would push a number of tours operators down from the top rating, which he hoped would encourage them to continue improving their green credentials.

A spokeswoman for charity Tourism Concern, which campaigns against irresponsible tourism, said that the changes were "much-needed" and encouraging, but called for greater transparency.

"We would like to see the results," she added. "Corporate checklists are rarely sufficient – they need to be robustly policed by third parties."

"Unless the actual impact is verified, customers really have no idea what they are buying into."

Travel companies must now re-apply for AITO membership to receive their new rating.

So far seven operators have been awarded the new five star rating: Corsican Places, Explore, Himalayan Kingdoms, Journey Latin America, KE Adventure Travel, Serenity Holidays and Tribes Travel.

Companies must achieve a minimum of one star to gain AITO membership.

An adventurous tour on Africa's wilder side

Tony Dawe - The Times — Wed, 09 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT

This must be as good an adventure as you can get on a package holiday - and its starts in that benign destination, The Gambia. After a night in the comfort of the Coconut Residence, with two pools and an acclaimed restaurant, the excitement begins with a short drive to Banjul port to catch the ferry across the Gambia River.

Those in the know and with a few dalasis in the hand will be allowed through the port gates to reach the quayside. When they and their vehicles are aboard, the gates open and hundreds of locals rush for the ancient vessel - women with children on their backs and sacks of flour on their heads; men pulling trolleys and carrying suitcases; peanut vendors and iced-drink sellers.

The overcrowded ferry takes 50 minutes to reach Barra and from there the border with Senegal is a 20-minute drive. A new road is being built with EU funds to replace the current sand-blown track.

Into Senegal, the road is less dusty, but so potholed that drivers head off on to tracks across the plain, only returning to the highway when a stream has to be crossed. The villages along the way are a mixture of straw huts and stone houses with corrugated iron roofs. Cattle, goats, donkeys and the odd boar roam in and out of the houses and the traffic.

The four-hour journey on this Gambia Experience trip to the Sine Saloum Delta is broken with a stop for a snack and a drink in a café in Kaolack, an oasis of calm in a chaotic town at the centre of the salt industry.

The spirit of adventure is still present on reaching Les Collines de Niassam, an eco-lodge a mile from the Atlantic. Guests have the choice of walking out along a pontoon to one of four thatched huts on stilts in the lagoon or climbing into a house in a baobab tree. The less nimble can settle for a simple bungalow.

The excursions on offer are just as exciting or nerve-racking as the journey to the delta: a microlight ride, canoeing in the mangrove, trekking, a trip in a local fishing boat.

I settled for an evening ride in a primitive horse-drawn cart in search of hyenas and a morning sail up the lagoon in a rickety pirogue, excellently piloted by Ousman, who had restored the traditional craft and is creating a museum in the neighbouring village.

The eco-lodge is charming, but has one disadvantage: although all the accommodation has a shower, sink and toilet, the water is cold. If you insist on hot water, a waiter will bring a bucket from the kitchen to your room.

So it is a pleasure to decamp a mile to the Royal Lodge and luxuriate in a vast spa bath in a bright and airy bathroom. This is a remarkable hotel, a fully-fledged resort amid the bougainvillea and baobab trees on the edge of Africa. It has most things you would expect in a western resort: a large infinity pool with a spa bath at the centre, a sandy beach, an accomplished and airy restaurant, a beauty salon, laundry and 24-hour a day service.

The Gambia Experience offers a week's holiday combining The Gambia and the Sine Saloum Delta region of Senegal from £1,049. This price is based on a flight from Gatwick to Banjul, transfer to Coconut Residence for half-board for a night, travel to the delta for three nights' half-board at Les Collines, two nights' half-board at the Royal Lodge and return to Banjul for a final night's half-board at Coconut Residence.

From November, The Gambia Experience will be offering holidays direct to Senegal with flights to Dakar, the capital, thus cutting out the ferry trip and reducing the journey time to the delta to three hours.

For those happy to settle for the sunshine in The Gambia, the company offers a range of holidays, with prices for a week's B&B at the four-star Kombo Beach Hotel in Kotu starting from £399 this month, including return flights from Gatwick and transfers.