Seoul Searching

Same Same, But Different

2012-02-01T04:46:00.002-06:00

McDonalds's. Dunkin Donuts. Pizza Hut. Burger King. Just a few names that one might associate with American fast food. And while it's true that these companies may have been born in the land of golden arches, today they can be found all over the world. When I first started traveling, I refused to enter a Mickey D's, in fear that it would disturb my cultural experience of whatever country I was visiting. Since then, I've learned that having a meal or two at American fast food joints overseas is, in fact, a cultural experience in itself. While fast food franchises usually serve up original items, like the Big Mac or cheese pizza, they will also offer dishes that accommodate the taste of its citizens. This is also true in Korea and since I've been here, I've had a lot of fun trying the unusual options.

McDonald's seems to be the most common foreign chain around the country and it was my safe haven when I first arrived in Korea without any language proficiency or knowledge of Korean food. I could easily point to a picture on the menu and my order was easily understood. The first time I saw the menu, however, I was a bit turned off by the Shrimp Burger. I suppose it is made similarly to our fish sandwiches at home, but for some reason the idea of shrimp mashed up and pressed together into a patty is just a tad repulsive to me. In the past couple years, I've eaten everything from fried crickets to live octopus to dog but for some reason or another, I still can't do the shrimp burger. What I do love to order, on the other hand, is the Shanghai Spice Chicken burger. A chicken breast (or random parts... it IS McDonald's!) is fried with various oriental spices, smeared with some mayo, topped with lettuce and tomato, and placed on a bun. While it's not too different from the average chicken sandwich, the spice is a tasty twist on the original.

Burger King's Bulgogi Burger is also an item distinctive to Korean fast food chains. Bulgogi is a traditional Korean dish of grilled sliced beef marinated in a sweet sauce. The restaurant uses the bulgogi sauce to give the burger a sweet flavor. I, myself, am not extremely fond of it, as there are very few sweet flavors that I like in a meal. Still, I can see how Koreans, or anyone with a sweet tooth, would favor the taste. Burger King also serves up patbingsu, a traditional Korean dessert of shaved ice topped with sweetened red beans and fruit. It's a strange way to follow up a burger set-uh (combo) but is tasty all the same.

Patbingsu is a tasty traditional Korean sweet that can be enjoyed at Burger King. Who knew?

Both Pizza Hut and Domino's also use bulgogi meat as a topping on many of their pizza variations; compared to other toppings, it's the most Western. Unlike corn. I'm not sure where they got the idea, but corn is a standard topping on almost all pizzas in Korea. I don't mind eating it, but I was quick to learn the phrase "ogsusu baegu, juseo" ("without corn, please"). It just feels like a bit of a culinary sin eating pizza with corn. Another weird, but surprisingly delicious topping is sweet potato. Whether it's stuffed in the crust or sits atop the cheese in slices, the flavor works quite well with tomato sauce and cheese. Fortunately, Parmesan cheese is available alongside Tabasco sauce (something I MUST have on my pizza these days) at pizza restaurants. And lest we forget the side of pickles that comes with each order. Oh, the pickles.

Having to pass Dunkin Donuts every morning on the way to work this past year was not good for my health. I made frequent stops for bagels with cream cheese and iced lattes. I also got a good laugh checking out the doughnut selection while I waited for my order. DD is consistent in producing some incredibly bizarre culinary creations ranging from stomach-turning to intriguing. The "Banana Filled" in the shape of a banana with yellow frosting seems tolerable enough, contrary to the "Kimchi Croquette" filled with the famous fermented cabbage. There are some doughnuts that are rice based (super chewy) and still others that are marketed to the health nut, like the vitamin doughnut (surrrrrre). I was most fascinated by the vegetable themed doughnuts, said to be made from carrot, broccoli, or spinach. For the sole purpose of blog research, I decided to try a few of them and was a bit amazed at their tastiness. After getting over the orange and green colors, I enjoyed their cakey texture and perfect amount of sweetness. My favorite was the carrot doughnut, as it was somewhat comparable to carrot cake, though the icing was lighter. Unfortunately these are no longer on the menu, but no worries... Dunkin Donuts has new creations all the time.

The Banana Filled, Kimchi Croquette, and Sweet Potato Stick Sand are all available at your local Dunkin Donuts. If you're in Korea, that is.

I'm not a huge fast food fan, but I will continue to be intrigued by the Korean adaptation of American fast food. It's been a fun aspect of traveling and a way to change things up a bit when bibimbap gets boring. So, the next time you are traveling and find yourself cringing at the uncanny menu choices at a foreign McDonald's, order the weirdest item. You might just be pleasantly surprised. If not, well, it's all a part of the adventure.

The Colors of Cao Daiism

2012-01-30T01:15:00.007-06:00

It always upsets me a bit to realize how little I know about the world. This realization springs up from time to time during my travels, whenever I stumble upon a certain festival or custom or religion that I had never before even had the slightest inkling that it existed.

I recently took an organized day trip out of Saigon to see the famous Cu Chi Tunnels. Also on the itinerary was the Cao Dai Temple. Not knowing anything about it, I Googled the religion the evening before the trip to get some insight as to what it was all about. I learned that it was a Vietnamese religious movement organized in the early 1900s and now has over 6 million followers with practitioners living throughout the world. In addition to its spiritual roots, it also played a role in various political events throughout the 20th century.

As I read more about it, I found that the religion draws upon the principles of some of the world's major religions: Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Some of the art depicted in the religion's temples are Hindu while the religious structure is hierarchical, much like the organization of Roman Catholicism. The unique belief system promotes equality and peace and seeks to create a more tolerant world. It had me flashing back to my visit to Delhi's Baha'i House of Worship, as their foundation is quite similar.

So, off we headed to The Great Temple, or "The Holy See" as it's also named, 60 miles northwest of Ho Chi Minh City. Approaching the temple, which is located on a Cao Dai compound, was much like falling through the rabbit hole. Though the temple does resemble a European cathedral in its architecture, the external embellishments are very Asian. It's a wacky yet intriguing combination. Upon entering, one feels like Alice wandering into Wonderland. The colors that illuminate the church are eye-popping and the dragons that dance up the columns of the interior are a bit frightening.

I walked along the outer perimeter of the floor and couldn't help but notice a number of icons that were placed throughout the temple. The most prominent was an eye- a left eye to be exact- that was centered on the windows as well as on a giant sphere that sat in the middle of the alter alongside what must have been offerings to Cao Dai, their god. When I looked up, I saw a man's portrait painted on the ceiling. I thought it looked a heck of a lot like Benjamen Franklin. It turns out that it was. Along with Jesus, Joan of Arc, Julius Caesar, and Confucius, Ben is one of the religion's saints.

The Holy See's nave is bordered by 28 intimidating, but beautiful columns.

Mass is held four times a day, starting at midnight and occurring every 6 hours after that. Practitioners must attend mass daily. We were allowed to stay for the noontime service, but were instructed to watch from the second floor. As we headed upstairs, I noticed people preparing traditional Asian instruments to be used during the service. We were later told that most of their prayers are conveyed through song, which I thought was quite beautiful. Attendants began entering in a procession, wearing white garments. Women sat on the left, men on the right, and monks entered from the center. The monks stood out in their brightly colored garments. Though it was all very interesting to watch, and the locals didn't seem to have a problem with it, I felt like I was intruding on their spiritual practices. One of the problems with cultural tourism- whether one is visiting a village or watching a ceremony- is that it often resembles a human zoo: the main attraction in the center, the eager spectators on the sides, clicking away at their cameras.

Monks and 'higher-ups' of the Cao Dai faith dress in bright colors, a contrast to the whites of the congregation.

A man prays before the service begins.

Still, it is always a good experience to have one's mind opened to new ideas and see how people in different places live their lives. I think the right word to describe the Cao Dai religion is colorful. From the quirks of the Holy See's design to the rather offbeat rules of the religion to the followers viewing Victor Hugo as a high spiritual being, it's not your average monotone belief system. But, it's interesting. After all, who wants to live in a black-and-white world?

Coffee with Character, Part 2

2012-01-27T11:34:00.012-06:00

It wasn't too long ago that I wrote a piece featuring some of the themed cafes of Seoul. It turned out to be a popular post, so I've decided to write my first follow-up entry highlighting some other quirky cafes I've visited since then.

Travel has always been a passion of mine, so I was very excited when a friend told me about Cafe 1010, located in wonderful Hongdae in the alley just next to Hello Kitty Cafe. Just as one might be greeted by a flight attendant upon boarding an airplane, lego-like pilots give a hospitable smile to patrons entering the cafe. Once inside, I was able to choose from an assortment of "air meals" which I'm sure taste better than your run-of-the-mill in-flight food. The service was also better, too. I even received a receipt in the form of a boarding pass. The interior was delightfully adorned with travel guides, postcards, and maps from worldwide destinations. For a brief moment, I thought I was in Incheon, waiting for a flight. Luckily that was not the case, as I had no yet had my fill of cute themed cafes.

Patrons to Cafe 1010 are greeted by a lego-like pilot .

Zoo Coffee is a chain of coffee shops that are quickly popping up throughout Seoul. While the interior is simple and clean, they make sure to incorporate lots of jungle motif in their decor. Take-out cups are are decorated in an animal print, as are the throw pillows in the booths. Artificial trees are placed appropriately throughout the seating areas, but not so much as to make customers feel swamped. There are also some over-sized stuffed animals for sale, which are always a big hit with kids and kids at heart. In addition to the decor, the drinks are another reason that make Zoo Coffee stand out from the rest. Their creamy white hot chocolate is to die for and their "I'm Korean" menu, consisting of beverages like Ginseng Red Honey Latte and Iced Persimmon, make this cafe anything but average.

Though 5CIJUNG cafe in Seorae Maeul (also on Garusol-gil) isn't exactly themed, it's a cafe worth mentioning. Famous for its delectable souffles, the coffee here is served up with a side of cuteness. All coffee and food is delivered with a small toy or trinket, making the somewhat pricey drinks worth it. The spoons and utensils are just as cute, often donning smiley faces. Although patrons cannot keep the toys, they're a fun conversation piece that make one's cafe experience a bit different than the rest.

Coffee, served with sugar and cuteness- just how I like it.

Korea is often coined "Dynamic Korea" in various tourism advertisements and it's easy to see why. There are the palaces, the traditions, the vibrant lights, the modern technology. It's truly a captivating nation and is anything but average, even when it comes to a simple cup of coffee. I've traveled to many places but I have yet to find a city that does coffee as creatively- or dynamically- as Seoul. A latte is not just a drink here. It's an experience with a concept. It's my hope that these themed cafes are around to stay, as they are an excellent attribute to the Korean travel experience.

Lions, Lights, and Luck

2012-01-24T06:25:00.008-06:00

The streets of Saigon have been eerily quiet the past couple days. Most of the city's residents have gone to their hometowns and the ones that have stayed are busy eating and drinking with their families in their houses.

I headed out to District 1 on New Year's Eve to see downtown after dark. Although the exteriors of the city's landmarks are usually lit up in the evenings, they seem even more exquisite now that Saigon has been illuminated with twinkle lights.

Twinkle lights drape trees, windows, and telephone poles throughout District 1.

I spent a few hours walking around the district, as the roads were blocked off to traffic for the festivities. It was nice not having to worry about being flattened into a pancake by the motorbikes. Every now again, I would follow the sounds of drums and symbols to find performance troupes at the entrances of the upscale hotels. From performing lion dances and intricate drum numbers to scaling large poles and showing off gymnastic feats, the troupes were well prepared. I was told that the performances were paid for by the hotels, as they ward off bad luck and welcome good business for the upcoming year.

The iconic Rex Hotel displays a lit up "Happy new Year" message on its facade.

Drummers perform a number in front of the Caravelle Hotel.

A lion dance is reenacted at the Caravelle Hotel to ward off evil spirits and bring in good business for the year.

I intended on staying out until midnight to watch the big fireworks display, but I began to worry as the crowds got bigger and the street space smaller. Not knowing if I'd be able to find a ride back to my place and not wanting to be around drunk drivers, I headed back early and watched the show from the rooftop of my apartment. My view was a bit obstructed but there were a few other foreigners who had the same idea so I had some company. We watched the family next door prepare an alter on their patio and at the strike of midnight, they began lighting incense and praying. Pretty auspicious way to start the New Year, eh?

The streets around the Opera House are not only decorated beautifully but were also blocked off to traffic.

I knew most places would be closed so I decided to stick around my neighborhood the following day. I wandered the streets to find families gathered, eating, and having a good time outside their homes. There were plenty who were singing kareoke, a popular hobby around these parts. As soon as I made eye contact with one of the family members, they instantaneously greeted me and wished me a happy new year. Many of the families even motioned me over to share their beer with me.

Today, I wandered an area close to mine to see similar scenes. One thing I saw a lot more of was street-side gambling. There were a few games being played in small circles of taxi drivers and market attendants. I'm not sure what they were playing, but some were using cards and others using a checkerboard like game. I even saw a couple kids doing it, throwing out bills that were probably lucky money they received from family members. I knew before coming here that Vietnamese people like to gamble. What I didn't know is that they believe if they win during Tet, they will have good luck gambling in the future year.

Although this has been my first Tet experience, I can still sense the festive feeling in the air and observe the hospitality of the people. I read on the internet that the Vietnamese are intent on being friendly and generous on the first days of the New Year, as such kindness brings good fortune. Still, I find it hard to believe that it's a temporary thing, an act. Their warmth has made the past few weeks here an enjoyable time. And, I'm certain the next few weeks will be just as nice... and hopefully lucky.

New Country, New Year

2012-01-21T23:49:00.008-06:00

So, I'm back in Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, to be exact.

Got an apartment. Got a cell phone. Got travel insurance. Got plenty of TUMS. Got a helmet. What I don't got is a plan. Or blood pressure meds, which I'm starting to think that I'll need to simply cross the streets in this city.

So, as I mentioned before, I'll be hanging out here until my documents are processed to obtain a visa for a job. I'm living in a nice little studio apartment in a Vietnamese area in District 7. I'm currently looking for some part time work but not trying too hard. The city is preparing for Tet- the mother of all holidays here in Vietnam. Everyone is out in full force preparing for the Chinese New Year. Needless to say, it's not the best time to be looking for a job, as schools are closed and families are returning to their hometowns, or traveling if they are expats. So, in the meantime, I'll make the best of my time here, relax a bit, and write about my observations of the culture.

It's 2012. It just so happens that it's the year of the dragon, a fierce beast common in most Asian art, literature, and folklore. I feel like if you're going to be in Vietnam during Tet, it should be during the year of the dragon. I'm already impressed with the efforts businesses have put into decorating their storefronts with reds and yellows and lights and lanterns and flowers. Big corporations like Coke and Oreo are taking advantage of the holiday for advertising purposes and have grand displays set up throughout the city.

A New Year's display by Oreo.

The city is also blooming with beautiful arrangements of flowers. Flower vendors are already overstocked with various plants, particularly yellow and red carnations, orchids, and sunflowers. Kumquat trees are another traditional plant bought during the holiday, as it symbolizes fertility and the fruitfulness that the family hopes to experience during the new year. Peach blossoms bring protection to the household, whereas apricot blossoms foster luck. Though most businesses shut down during the week, these plant stalls stay open, as the flowers are an essential purchase during Tet. It can be quite surprising to see huge trees strapped to the "backseats" of the many motorcycles that zoom around the city.

Rows of flower vendors are set up in the park near Ben Thanh Market.

Exotic flowers add a lot of color to Saigon.

Nguyen Hue Street has also been blocked off to street traffic and transformed into a magical avenue of colors, flowers, and Vietnamese icons. With lots of dragon motif, I found myself wandering from display to display with tourists and Vietnamese alike. It seems that it's common for the locals to dress in traditional Vietnamese clothing to take pictures with the beautiful arrangements. The kids were especially cute.

Flower displays on Nguyen Hue street.

Displays celebrating the upcoming year of the dragon.

Women dress in Ao Dai, the traditional Vietnamese dress, and pose near the arrangements.

More dragon motif on Ngyuen Hue.

There's also this interesting concept of "li xi" or "lucky money" that comes along with the lunar New Year. During the holiday, Vietnamese children receive small bills in red envelopes from their family members. Although this is also a tradition in Korea, it's taken to a new level here. Whenever I am trying to hail a motorbike taxi back to my place, I negotiate the fare with the driver. In the past few days, they have all been more stubborn about the price, giving me a sly smile and saying "Happy New Year!" I didn't know what they were talking about until it was explained to me. They feel that luck is bestowed upon the giver and the receiver of the extra 10,000 dong (50 cents) or so. So, I've given in, seeing as it's the culture and all. Plus, I could always use some extra good luck.

I made another observation a few days ago while having my nails done. A bubbly middle-aged man walked into the salon and cheerfully greeted all of the girls. I couldn't understand what they were saying, but it was obvious that they knew each other. After a few quick words, he starting taking notes of 50,000 dong and passed them out to each of the girls working there. The small gesture seemed to make their day. They say that the perception of luck is based on one's happiness and I guess receiving (or giving) money can have that effect. Who knows... maybe they're on to something with this lucky money thing.

Let's hope this little guy gets enough lucky money on New Year's Day.

I'm just starting to get a glimpse of the Vietnamese culture, but I feel that I arrived here at the right time. I'm eager to see how the city will transform as well as learn more about the traditions of Tet, as well as the other cultural aspects of this colorful country.

Home for the Holidays

2012-01-20T03:28:00.002-06:00

Christmas is a holiday that has always been widely celebrated, but it seems that only recently have many countries started to celebrate it on the same scale as we do in the West. The concepts of a commercialized Christmas are even starting to pop up in predominately Muslim nations like Turkey. It’s interesting to witness how other people celebrate the holiday. So, considering many of the readers of this blog are located outside of the States, I thought I’d share some of the traditions my family and I partake in and give some insight as to how Americans celebrate the holidays.

One of the first things I did when I arrived back home was decorate the Christmas tree with my mom and dad. Some people have a theme or a certain color scheme to their trees but not our family. Ours is a display of various ornaments collected over the years. My mom started a new tradition of purchasing ornaments that symbolize all the countries I’ve gone to. They were a nice addition to the tree. The finished project was quite pretty.

Santa did good this year at our house.

I've found that many countries, including Korea, put a lot of effort into decorating for the holidays, but America takes it to a whole new level. It’s always been fun going to the nice hotels in New Orleans or the coast casinos to walk around and admire the décor. This year, the Beau Rivage casino did a nice job with their holiday displays, including a collection of oversized ornaments and an extra large gingerbread village. They also put on a performance called, Spirit of Christmas which reminded me of Radio City Music Hall’s Christmas Spectacular. There were a lot of glitzy costumes, high-kicking girls, fun carols, and comical Santa antics. It was a great way to get into the Christmas spirit.

Christmas decor at the Beau Rivage

And you thought Santa made his runs on a sleigh. @ Bay Waveland Yacht Club

Christmas parties are also common during the holidays. There’s always good food to be had and it’s a great way to catch up with old friends and family. My friend Mark threw one in New Orleans which was attended by many of my university friends. I also went to a couple family parties in which I got to watch younger cousins open their presents from Santa or other family members. It was a great way to catch up with everyone that I’ve missed seeing over the years.

My cousins in their Christmas PJs on Christmas morning. Aren't they just the cutest little things?

We did Christmas dinner or Christmas Eve and made sure to include all the classics in the spread. Casseroles are a staple in most holiday dinners and are usually a concoction of ingredients that are then baked in a pan. My mom made a killer bourbon sweet potato casserole topped with mini marshmallows and pecans. Cornbread and rice dressings also made an appearance. The focus of the meal was a nice, moist turkey and gravy. I baked a bread pudding for dessert. After gorging on all the food, we found ourselves lethargic and dozing off at midnight mass. Good thing the priest didn’t catch us.

Mom's sweet potato casserole

In the morning, we woke up to exchange gifts. When my sister and I were younger, we would set an alarm for 3AM to get an early peek at the goodies that Santa brought for us. We’d then wake up again around 6 and pull our parents out of bed. They lovvved that. This year, we needed coffee before any of the gift opening could begin. Funny how things change over time.

Christmas was pretty hectic so when New Year’s came around, I decided to opt out of the all-night partying and hung out at home with my parents. We watched movies and it was great. Mom made a traditional New Year’s meal the following day consisting of cabbage, corn bread, corned beef, and black eyed peas. I think is a Southern thing but each food is supposed to bring you a certain fortune for the new year. The internet produced conflicting answers but it seems that most people believe that the beans stand for coins, the greens for 'folding money', the cornbread for luck, and the meat for looking forward.

Traditional Southern New Year's meal

I couldn’t have asked for a nicer holiday at home. It was much needed and brought back so many memories from my childhood. Who knows where I’ll be next Christmas, but that’s okay. Last I’ve heard, Santa’s got Skype.

Country Roads, Take Me Home

2012-01-05T05:39:00.000-06:00

One never really appreciates their own culture until they spend some time away from it. Well, that's the case for me, at least. As sad as I was to leave Korea, it had been 18 months since I had been home and I was eager to be with my family and friends. I was even missing The South.

The South-particularly The "Deep" South- is a very unique region of the United States. Our culture consists of a slow-paced, laid back lifestyle in which inhabitants generally possess warm and hospitable characteristics. Good manners, "Yes ma'ams", and smiles upon eye contact are considered the norm, mandatory even. We're often teased about the way we talk, our words being slow and drawn out. Yet, I've never meet a single person who dislikes our accent. Oh, and the food. I've traveled extensively and I can vouch that Southern cuisine is among the best in the world. Simply put, it's a great place,.

I'm from a small town. Bay St. Louis sits on the Mississippi Gulf Coast and it used to be dotted with colorful art galleries, restaurants, book shops, and beach bars but was demolished by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. I was happy to see during my trip home that it is coming back. It's still eerily quiet at times but people are trying to bring back the great little town that it used to be. I went to Second Saturday, an event held downtown in which shops have open houses and bands play and venues stay open later than usual. I was impressed with the turn out. It was also assuring to hear about the plans of an upcoming marina and beach reconstruction, as the view of the Bay can be breathtaking. Mom and I woke up early the morning before I left to watch the sunrise. I kinda forget what it was like to be in the presence of something so majestic.

The sun rises over the Bay on a January morning.

Another thing about the South is that we have a deep history. Though not always pretty, much of our history can be romantic and mysterious. Growing up, I took an interest in the culture of distant, exotic places. It took me moving to one of those faraway lands to make me curious about my own home. So, when I returned in December, I made sure to visit places where I could get an in-depth look into my own roots.

Soon after my arrival, my parents and I took a day trip to St. Francisville, Louisiana while visiting my sister in Baton Rouge. We were going to visit the Myrtles Plantation, a place I've always been interested in seeing, as it has been featured multiple times on those cheesy ghost shows on TV and has been proclaimed one of the most haunted homes in America. The story is that Chole, a slave of the family of the plantation, was caught eavesdropping on family business; as a punishment, her ear was cut off. She then poisoned the master's children's birthday cake. They died and she was soon thereafter hung. It's said that the ghosts of the children and Chole haunt the premises and have even been photographed by visitors.

Ghostbuster energy drinks are sold at the Myrtle's gift shop... for obvious reasons.

Although I wasn't able to spot any wandering spirits, I did enjoy the tour. The grounds were quite pretty, canopied by oaks draped in Spanish moss and the guide was quite informative. The house itself could use some remodeling but the furniture was exquisite. Maybe next time I go back, I'll stay the night and keep an ear out for Chole. It's said she can be heard going up the stairs in the late hours of the evening.

The courtyard at the Myrtles.

Another place we checked out was in Biloxi, Mississippi, just a half hour's drive from our house. Beauvior is known as being the last home of Jefferson Davis, the former president of the Confederacy. I had been there before on a field trip in elementary school but didn't remember much about the house. The house itself was hit hard by Katrina but has since been remodeled beautifully.

Our guide here was also great and knew the history of the place like the back of his hand. He pointed out all the details of each room, like the petticoat mirrors placed on the lower parts of furniture, used by the women to check and ensure that their ankles were not showing- a very promiscuous thing at the time. Another feature I thought interesting was the separation of the dining rooms between children and adults. I always thought the saying was that "children should be seen and not heard" rather than not seen AND not heard. The house was well prepared for Christmas, complete with a tree decorated by the Daughters of the Confederacy. The whole "confederate pride" stand the organization takes is a bit controversial, but the house is a piece of history that's worth exploring.

The parlor room at Beauvoir.

Beauvoir's dining room features a special domed mirror in which the host could see all of his or her guests at the table. The Christmas decorations were a nice touch, too.

No trip home would be complete without a stop in New Orleans. We made a few of them. I always enjoy wandering the French Quarter, admiring the old buildings, listening to the taps of the street performers, and sipping on a bloody mary at the Chartres House Cafe. Of course, we made sure to get oysters at Felix's and beignets at Cafe du Monde. New Orleans is such a cool place that it's hard to find the words to describe it properly. From the culture, to the music, to the people, it's one of those unforgettable cities. I'm just sad I'll be missing out on Mardi Gras.

A street performer plays "When the Saints go Marching In" in Jackson Square. Unfortunately, it wasn't enough to bring them to the Superbowl this year.

A horse drawn carriage trots through the streets of the French Quarter.

Great musicians of New Orleans.

Traveling is no doubt a great way to open one's mind and broaden one's horizons. Yet, at the same time, it's important to remember where one came from. My trip back home was definitely a time to reflect on who I am and appreciate my own culture. I don't know when I'll be back, but I'll always be keeping a little bit of the South in my heart wherever I go.

Bay St. Louis, my humble but beautiful home.

Transitions

2012-01-02T05:20:00.001-06:00

Well, my laziness got the best of me my last few months in Korea. I stayed so busy trying to see people and places and saying goodbyes and shopping for souvenirs that I put the blog on the back burner. It was a farewell that left my stomach in knots and although I continued to tell myself that it was my last go in Dae-Han-Min-Guk, I don't think it was a final goodbye.

Originally my plans were to go home for the holidays and start a graduate program in Thailand in May. I even booked a ticket to Vietnam to spend a few months there, killing time and saving money while waiting for school to start. Yet, as the end of my contract at ECC approached, I began to think that the more realistic thing to do would be to save for an additional year. I've even been considering making ESL a career path of mine, so an extra year to figure all that out might be good for me. I tossed around ideas of going to Dubai or Japan even but Korea is my comfort zone and it's hard to imagine having to start the cultural transitioning all over again.

So, it looks like that's the plan.

I'm still headed to Vietnam as I now will have to wait for my documents to be processed. It seems that Korea has been upping its requirements for the E2 (teaching) visa on a year-to-year basis. An FBI-issued criminal background check is now mandatory and it can take up to three months to be completed. Nevertheless, all time is valuable so I'll be enjoying mine in Ho Chi Minh City come January 5.

I considered renaming my blog as it will no longer be primarily about Seoul, or even Korea, but I guess it's never been entirely consistent anyway. Also, this little venture of forks-in-the-roads and unclear destinations is, in fact, soul searching. So, I'm keeping the name. I'll also be posting more photo entries as I recently purchased an Olympus PEN E-PL2 as a Christmas present to myself. I'd like to pick up photography again as a hobby so keep an eye out for that.

In the meantime, I hope all of you had a wonderful holiday and will have a happy, healthy, and prosperous 2012!

Seoul on a Shoestring

2011-11-29T00:41:00.009-06:00

Whenever I tell friends and family at home about my adventures overseas, they usually go on and on about how much they would like to travel and do similar things. When I ask them why they don't, they always give me the same answer: it's too expensive. Well, I'm here to say that that explanation is malarkey. Sure, travel can be expensive if one chooses it to be, but if researched properly, it can be done for pennies. From being flexible with your travel dates (I use Kayak to book flights) to staying in hostels or guesthouses, you can be a savvy traveler. You can even see a whole city for free. Really. And today, I'm writing to prove it. The following is a list of free places to see and things to do in Seoul, as well as some cheap suggestions for eating, drinking, and shopping.

1. The National Museum of Korea

Free Sightseeing: With three floors of Korean artifacts and art, history buffs can spend a whole day in this place. The exhibits are beautiful and most of them have English descriptions. Don't miss the outdoor exhibition area, which features a display of pagodas that lead into a resting area with views of a waterfall. The museum is closed Mondays.

Cheap Coffee Break: Instead of grabbing a cup of Joe at the outdoor cafe near the entrance of the museum, purchase a drink at the convenience store that connects to the cafe. Take your beverage out to the reflecting pond, have a seat, and enjoy your caffeine.

The National Museum of Korea boasts a variety of exhibits, ranging from pottery to Buddhist scuptures to pagodas.

2. Noryangjin Fish Market

Free Sightseeing: An aquarium and market in one, the Noryangjin Fish Market is a grand bazaar of seafood. From crabs the size of your head to stingrays to unidentifiable wiggly objects, the market is a spectacle for the senses. The real action starts around 5AM when the auctions take place, but locals can still be found looking for wares in the afternoon.

Cheap Eat: While it's tempting to purchase your own seafood and have the cooks prepare it for you upstairs, it can be pricey when on a budget. Instead, exit the market nearest the subway, cross the main street, and dine at one of the many street food tents. Choose from spicy tteokbokki, tasty kimchi fried rice, or juicy kebabs. For a few bucks, you'll leave with a full stomach.

3. Namsan Mountain

Free Sightseeing: Check out the beautiful view of Seoul from Namsan Mountain. While many take the slightly overpriced trip up to the top of N'Seoul Tower, the city can be viewed just as easily from the free roof terrace at the base of the tower. Many take the cable car to the top, but a more budget friendly option would be to take local buses 02 or 05 from Chungmuro Station (exit 2) or bus 03 from Itaewon Station (exit 2). Wear comfortable shoes, as you can also explore one of the nature trails at the summit of the mountain.

Cheap Hallyu Experience: While a lot of places charge you to re-live a moment from a Korean drama, you can make your own on Namsan Mountain. Bring a small, cheap padlock along with you and place it amongst the thousands of others. It doesn't matter if you're with your lover or not... you'll be leaving a little piece of yourself at the top of Seoul. Don't forget to decorate it beforehand.

Make sure to be on Namsan Mountain in the late afternoon so that you can see the city light up as evening falls on the city.

4. Hongdae

Free Sightseeing: As my favorite neighborhood, Hongdae boasts a wide variety of things to do. It's best to wander the alleys, as they will eventually take you to some colorful (and free) art galleries, or quirky, photo-worthy buildings. On Saturday afternoons from March to November, artists display their homemade wares. Go for the people watching, stay for the tunes performed by local musicians. There are some artists who will even sketch your portrait for a few cents.

Cheap Night Out: If you time it correctly, there are silent dance parties in the same park on some weekends. (Check the dates here.) There's a DJ but he's only audible through the headphones distributed at the check in desk. The party packs in a lot of people, so it seems that they're now requiring that you sign up beforehand. You are asked to make a donation, but the amount is up to you. It's a unique night out for sure. Bring your own beer.

Party-goers rock it out at the Silent Disco in Hongdae, Seoul's vibrant youth district.

5. Bukchon Hanok Village

Free Sightseeing: Bukchon is a picturesque neighborhood of Seoul that features preserved hanoks, traditional Korean homes. Walking through the alleys of the beautiful buildings makes one feel as if he or she has step back in time. There are some random museums that focus on traditional Korean crafts that are placed strategically throughout the village, many of which are free. You can enjoy window shopping in the interesting little boutiques in nearby Samcheondong. Grab a map of Bukchon at the tourist information booth just outside exit 6 at Anguk Station.

Cheap Sweets: When approaching Samcheongdong from Anguk Station, keep an eye out for street vendors selling hodduck, sweet pancakes filled with sugar, cinnamon, and nuts. They go for about a buck, but trust me... it's hard to stop at one. Wash it down with a cup of shikhye, a sweet rice drink which is also sold by these vendors.

6. Myeongdong

Free Sightseeing: Be wowed by the glitz of Myeongdong, Seoul's shopping district. It's best to get there in the mornings to beat the rush hour, but it's also interesting in the evenings, if you don't mind large crowds. Explore the many stores and spend some time window shopping. There are also an endless number of cosmetics shops: Innisfree, Etude House, and The Face Shop to name a few. Loud girls on microphones will lure you in with free face masks (which you can keep regardless if you make a purchase) and you are free to try out any product once inside.

Cheap Souvenirs: You'll notice many brightly colored accessory shops throughout Myeongdong. They're usually small and over-packed with jewelry and hairband displays. These are the best places to buy small trinkets for friends at home. Soju earrings, character socks, and Korean cell phone charms are all about a buck a piece.

7. The Han River

Free Sightseeing: The Han River stretches through the middle of Seoul and can be beautiful during the day or in the evening. Parks outline the river and are outlets for all sorts of fun activities, such as biking or swimming. In the evening, the Banpo Bridge at Dongjak Station transforms into a colorful fountain show. Check the times here to make sure you don't miss it.

Cheap Thrills: In addition to the parks, many convenience stores also dot the riverbanks. Many of them sell Roman candles and sparklers, which are sure to make for a fun night with friends. Add even more fun by also purchasing some soju or makolli, traditional Korean alcohol, to enjoy on the river.

Finally, get from place to place by purchasing and loading a T-Money card at a convenience store or in the vending machines in the subway stations. The Seoul Metro is extremely efficient and easy to use, as signage and announcements are in English. Don't bother using the buses if you'll only be there for a few days and don't waste your money using taxis, unless of course you're getting home after midnight, when the subway closes. Expect to spend about 4,000 won ($3.50) a day on the subway if you're planning on going to a couple different locations. If you have a smart phone, download the Seoul Metro app to have detailed subway navigation at your fingertips.

So, there ya have it. By following these tips, you will see the highlights of Seoul and experience many different aspects of Korean culture for little to no money. There's no excuse for not traveling to this amazing city and beautiful country. Now, go... get on the plane!

What are your favorite free or cheap things to do in Seoul? Share your opinions with other readers below.

Annyeong

2011-10-06T03:41:00.010-05:00

Just as I thought my lucky streak was wearing off, I got a phone call last week notifying me that I had been chosen to attend the premier of "Annyeong" ("Hello"), an interactive movie promoting Korean tourism featuring the members of 2PM and miss A. It came as a bit of a surprise to me, as I had totally forgotten I had applied through Buzz Korea, a blogging network/ tourism website. When I got the OK from my boss to take the morning off of work, I became ecstatic not only that I would be meeting K-pop idols, but would also be participating in an event to promote the country that has become my second home.

I headed out to Lotte Cinema Avenuel early Tuesday morning to sign in. Upon my arrival, there was already a small group of eager fans waiting to get into the theater. After registering, I was given a gift bag which included the latest albums of 2PM and miss A as well as a promotional poster for the movie. As I rummaged through my goodies, I met some other bloggers and expats. Soon, staff announced it was time to enter the theater and we did so excitedly.

Participants, including myself, checking in at the lobby of the Lotte Cinema Avenuel in Myeongdong. (Photo Credit: Korean Tourism Organization)

Though the theater was small, tons of press had already set up camera equipment and microphones, competing for the best spot to shoot the event. KTO's CEO, Lee Charm, approached the stage to introduce the organization's goals of increasing tourism over the next year and explained how they hoped "Annyeong" would help them accomplish their objectives. I was pretty impressed with Mr. Charm's language skills as he switched from Chinese to Korean to German to English effortlessly. Oh, how I could only wish to be so global.

Soon enough, the theater was filled with the flashes of cameras as the members of 2PM and missA entered the room and took their seats on stage. 2PM looked flawless in their black suits and missA was as sassy as ever in their flirty mini dresses. There was an interview in which they discussed each member's role in the video and the idols each made comments about their personal experiences in making the movie. This was all translated into English to accommodate us foreign guests.

We were later showed the premier of "Annyeong" and I have to admit, I was quite impressed. The "movie", which will soon be released on the Buzz Korea website, is essentially a virtual 3-day trip around Korea (mostly Seoul) and is interactive in that the viewer can change the course of the movie. Various sites included in the movie are the Seoul Tower, Samcheongdong, and of course my favorite place, the Bukchon Hanok Village. In one segment, viewers can "go shopping" by selecting specific clothes at a stylish boutique in Apgujeong. In another, he or she can chose either a member of missA or 2PM to be his or her guide around a palace in Seoul. I've never seen anything like this video used as a tool for tourism and I'm really looking forward to it's release on the internet.

Members of K-pop groups 2PM and missA are interviewed about their experiences making "Annyeong".

After seeing the movie and the movie outtakes, 2PM and missA were named honorary ambassadors of the Korean Tourism Organization. There was also a special raffle held in which 3 members' clothes from the movie were given away to lucky participants. Unfortunately, I wasn't one of them but I would have loved to have won Suzy's pretty dress, though I doubt it would have fit.

Here, the guys of 2PM are named honorary ambassadors to Korea by the Korean Tourism Organization.

We then headed back to the theater lobby for the fan signing. I had met a fellow English teacher and we hurried to be first in line. Sure enough, we were and we waited anxiously for our first close-up glimpses of the K-pop idols. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures with them but I had them each sign my movie poster. I also got in a few nervous words to my favorites and had a small ego boost when Suzy commented that she liked my dress. Though I had rubbed elbows with 2PM when I danced in the Dream Concert back in May, my heart just about melted when each of the guys from 2PM smiled at me and I held back a crazed "I love you" when Junho signed a big heart under his name. The teacher I had met got even move laughs, as he asked the members to sign his arm, something unheard of on this side of the globe. Our meeting time was up too quickly and I had to get going to make it to school in time for my afternoon shift, but I was a happy girl after having such a cool opportunity.

miss A and 2PM enter the lobby for the fan signing. Can you guess who was first to meet them? Yeah... be jealous.

A guy I met had them sign his arm. I couldn't tell if they were amused or weirded out.

Me, posing with my signed "Annyeong" poster.

There's no doubt that Korea is Asia's best kept secret. Even though the small country sees its fair share of Asian tourists, the numbers of Western tourists are still relatively low. Sure, Korea doesn't have the Great Wall or sumo wrestlers or what Westerners might regard as famous landmarks; however, it does have a lot of heart and even more soul. It seems to me that "Annyeong" does a pretty good job at showing off some of the country's flair in a unique way that would inspire its viewers to hop a plane and explore the nation and its culture in person. If the tantalizing food and beautiful mountain side scenery in the movie don't do it, Taecyeon's smile will.

** See highlights from "Annyeong" here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpheLkVXcJ0

Baby's First Birthday

2011-09-27T03:16:00.011-05:00

Of my 25 birthdays, three of them stick out in my memory. My 16th: celebrated with an extravagant coming-of-age party with about 20 other girls from my class, it was a day that marked the beginning of freedom and the chance to finally drive without a parent in the car. My 18th: I officially became an adult and could legally go to a bar, vote, and buy cigarettes (the latter I've never even done but it was cool to know that I could). My 21st: I could finally buy alcohol without worrying about getting arrested or caught with my fake ID of a Mexican girl who clearly didn't resemble me in the least.

In Western culture, we relish those birthdays in which we gain what we think is freedom, yet we are still young enough to not have to be fully responsible. It's often thought that after 21, it's all down-hill. Birthdays become less of a celebration and more of a reminder that our glory days are over. We start to lie about our age.

Yet, in Korea, the most celebrated birthdays are those in which the person is most vulnerable. Or, at least, when they used to be most vulnerable. For example, the 60th birthday is very important in Korean culture. By the time one reaches 60, he or she has lived through the entire cycle of the Chinese zodiac. Another reason this birthday is so important is that it used to be very uncommon that people lived this long. Nowadays, Koreans tend to celebrate this birthday at age 70 instead of 60, as life-expectancy has risen.

The best-known of Korean birthday celebrations, however, is the 1st birthday, or what Koreans call dol or doljanchi. As it was uncommon for a person to reach the age of 60, the death rate amongst infants was also very high. So, in the past, when a child reached the 1 year milestone, the entire village would rejoice with a big celebration. To this day, the tradition is still important to Koreans and there is a lot of money that goes into throwing one of these bashes.

Recently, I was invited to attend my co-worker's daughter's dol celebration. I was excited to see her baby girl, Yeh-ji, but was also looking forward to getting the opportunity to experience more of Korean culture. Upon entering the restaurant, I was given a number which I was to place in one of 6 or so cups. Considering I didn't know what they were, I just tossed my number in a random one. I found my co-workers and we chatted as we ate and admired the colorful decorations.

Certain elements of the dol celebration have changed, but many of the traditions remain the same. In pre-modern times, shamanistic prayer ceremonies and sacrificial rituals were held on mountain tops; nowadays, families and friends gather to party in a local banquet hall, or in my co-worker's case, Jessica's Kitchen, an Italian buffet. There isn't much shamanism that takes place, but a "prayer" table is still arranged with the customary sacrificial foods, such as rice, fruit, and rice cakes. (Upon closer inspection, I realized that all the food was plastic.) She admitted to me that she was not involved in the decoration- she paid the restaurant to take care of all of the formalities. And who can blame her- she's a working mom after all. I'm guessing for a restaurant to even offer this service that the whole first birthday thing must be a pretty big business in Korea.

A table at the entrance of the restaurant displayed adorable pictures of baby Yeh-ji.

The "prayer table" displays some traditional sacrificial foods common at the first birthday party. I'm guessing that they didn't use teddy bears back in the day.

As we were eating, my co-worker, Sue, her husband, and her baby, all dressed in hanbok and her baby wearing the special dol cap, a jobawi, walked around to greet their guests. Little Yeh-ji was just adorable and was hamming it up, as babies do so well. We watched a sideshow of videos and photos of the baby's first year then the MC announced that we would be starting the fortune telling ritual common at most first birthdays.

My co-worker, Sue, her husband, and her beautiful angel Yeh-ji dressed in hanbok.

As it turned out, those cups that I was to put my number in were each marked with different objects: pencil, rope, stethoscope, and money to name a few. The baby was seated and then presented with a box containing all of the said items. I was told by a co-worker that the item she picked would predict her future. If she chose the rope, she would have a long life. The pencil indicated she would be a scholarly academic. I guessed she would go for the easy-to-grasp stethoscope, symbolizing a future career as a doctor, but, like a good Korean girl, she went for the 50,000 won bill. Of course, everyone laughed at this. It was even funnier that over 20 minutes later, she was still waving around the money, wearing her newly acquired gold ring, a common gift given at the first birthday, and smiling from ear to ear.

After choosing money from the fortune telling box, little Yeh-ji refused to let go of the 50,000 won bill. Smart girl.

There was another quick game in which guests had to guess the baby's time of birth, weight at birth, and so on, followed by a speech from Sue. Seeing as I was the only foreigner in attendance, I felt especially honored when Sue turned to me and spoke a brief thank you message in English so that I could understand what she was saying. It's such small gestures that remind me of how warm Koreans can be.

Though malnutrition and disease amongst children in Korea has drastically decreased in modern times, the first birthday isn't any less important. Sure, it may be a bit more commercialized and slightly less traditional, but it's the mark of the beginning of life. And what's more beautiful than than that?

Superkimchi

2011-09-20T05:39:00.006-05:00

It would be wrong in every sense of the word to maintain this blog without writing an entry dedicated entirely to Korea's national dish, kimchi. It would be like leaving out the Eiffel Tower in a travel guide to Paris, or ignoring the conical hats in a description of Vietnam. So much of Korean life- both in the past and present- revolves around the famous spicy food. It can be found in just about every restaurant in the country. There's a museum dedicated to the stuff at COEX mall in Seoul. Koreans even say "kimchi" in place of "cheese" when being photographed.

Yet, contrary to what many Westerners think, kimchi is not actually a single dish. While baechu kimchi, made with cabbage happens to be what most people picture when they think of kimchi, there are over 180 varieties of the fermented foodstuff, each containing a different main ingredient and each originating from a different location of the country. Regardless of the type, kimchi is generally made the same way. The central ingredient is usually a vegetable which is salted and then mixed with various condiments, such as red pepper, fish sauce, garlic, and/or brine. For most families, there are two big kimchi-making days a year and both mom and kids alike are involved in the process.

A woman prepares kimchi to serve at her restaurant.

Here, a hanji (Korean paper) doll depicts women in hanboks making kimchi.

In the past, kimchi was placed in large pots that were then buried in the ground to allow the dish to ferment. It was just a couple decades ago that refrigeration became widespread, which clearly made the kimchi-making process much easier. Now, it's possible to consume the stuff without waiting forever for it to ferment, though I must say that like wine, kimchi is better with age. Most families have two refrigerators in their homes: one for regular food products and the other for kimchi. Actually, there are refrigerators made specifically for the purpose of keeping kimchi; they keep the pungent smells from contaminating other foods... and household items. I once had a lady make me two huge bags of it as a gift. I had already been warned that if not careful, the smells would infuse everything in my apartment. I made sure to triple-bag it before putting it in sealed Tupperware inside my refrigerator. It was only two days before my bed and clothes stunk of the stuff. Even after human consumption, the heady odors are released through the pores; this is especially evident on hot days when sweating is inevitable. Needless to say, the subways are not the most pleasant places to be during the dog days of summer.

An exhibit at the Kimchi Field Museum in Seoul displays traditional methods for making and storing kimchi.

While kimchi pots are used for fermentation, they are also a beautiful icon of Korea. (Photo credit: Luther Ladner)

Despite the strong smell, kimchi is quite delicious. Some may argue that westerns have to acquire a taste for the dish to truly enjoy it. For me, it was love at first bite. I'm not completely certain how many types of kimchi I've tried, but considering all the banchan (side dishes) that are served up with Korean cuisine, I'm guessing it's a lot. I have my favorites and I fervently stand behind my claim that the following are the best kimchis to be found in Korea:

4. Baechu (Cabbage) Kimchi: The most common kimchi makes my list of the best, as it is what I have grown most accustomed to. I like it when it's really packed with red pepper powder. The rich red color lets me know it's going to be spicy, but delicious.

3. Kkakugi (Radish) Kimchi: This kimchi has all the ingredients of normal kimchi, but instead of cabbage, it's main ingredient is daikon, or white raddish. The radish is usually cut into cubes and mixed with salt, red chili powder, and ginger to produce a crunchy kimchi that pairs well with meaty soups. It's said to help aid in digestion, as most kimchi does.

2. Mool (Water) Kimchi: I have really started to like cold soups and mul kimchi falls under that category. While green onion, radish, and garlic are used to make this kimchi, it is mostly water, as it's name implies and is eaten with a spoon. It's especially refreshing in the summer, as it is light and taste.

1. Oisobagi (Stuffed Cucumber) Kimchi: Another kimchi that's popular in the summer, oisobagi kimchi uses all the main ingredients of the kimchis listed above, but with cucumbers as the central ingredient. It almost tastes like spicy pickles. If you haven't caught on, I'm really fond of light, crunchy foods and this one tops my list.

And the worst kimchi...

Kimchi Chocolate: Okay, so it's technically not kimchi but I had to mention it. It's mostly sold as a souvenir and the majority of Koreans have never even tried it. All I'll say is that both the idea, as well as the taste of it are just wrong in so many ways.

With over 180 varieties of kimchi, there's a flavor for everyone.

The best thing about kimchi is that it has been classified as one of the few superfoods of the world. Known for being packed with vitamins and antioxidants, it's said to prevent anything from cancer to SARS. It's believed, even amongst the scientific population, that kimchi kept SARS from affecting Korea during the Asian outbreak of the disease in 2003. Move over, Superman, Superkimchi is here to save the world. And, it is in fact now being imported all throughout the world as Korean cookery becomes a trend amongst foodies. So, to all those needing a nutritional boost, grab your chopsticks and head to the nearest Korean restaurant or Asian market to sample the nation's culture in culinary form. I promise you'll be asking for seconds.

You Know Korea is Your Home When...

2011-09-14T22:31:00.000-05:00

My days are slowly coming to an end in Korea. I've tried to compile a few 'transformations' I've noticed in myself or others after living in Korea for quite some time. So, I give you...

"You know Korea is your home when..."

- Western fusion food tastes good.
- you don't notice the fellow wagooken passing by.
- you own any of the following clothing items: a sparkly tie, mittens with the faces of animals on them, a big puffy winter jacket, a winter hat in the shape of an animal head, or a t-shirt with English that makes no sense whatsoever.
- you feel awkward not holding up the "V" in pictures.
- you can win a shoving fight with an ajumma on the subway.
- you don't worry about the 8 year old kid walking by himself down the street at 10:00pm.
- you drink hot coffee through a stirrer straw.
- the ajusshi smell is more comforting than is repulsing.
- when talking to family at home, you refer to your fellow American friends as foreigners.
- you feel comfortable striping down to your birthday suit at the public bath.
- you wonder what the big deal about Itaewon is anyway.
- you keep a toothbrush at your desk at school/work and change into slippers when teaching class.
- you have cravings for kimchi.
- you curse (or cheer) in Korean rather than English. FIGHTING!
- photos of cows and pigs hung in the windows of restaurants don't keep you from eating there.
- you know more about Korean geography than your Korean co-workers.
- you've memorized all the jingles to Korean commercials.
- you can calculate down to the minute how long a trip a trip on the subway will be.
- you don't even notice that the fish you ordered came still has its head.
- you find yourself bowing to other foreigners.
- you are comfortable using a squatty potty.
- you wear a mini skirt in freezing temperatures.
- you eat ramen in your apartment with chopsticks.
- popping open a cold one and relaxing in the plastic chairs at the local 7-11 is a perfect afternoon
- you prefer a certain brand of soju.
- walking over vomit patties on the streets doesn't make you gag.
- your idea of a cure for a sickness is drinking hot water or lemon tea.
- you remember to throw away any trash inside, because there's no way you'll find a trash can outdoors.
- you don't feel the need to make monthly trips to the foreign food stores and can't remember the last time you went to McDonalds.
- you prefer to sleep on a heated floor than a bed.
- you're okay with the corn on your pizza.
- you and your significant other wear matching sweatshirts, or hats, or... underwear.
- you play more Korean drinking games than Western ones.
- you know better than to write a student's name on the board with a red marker.
- you consistently win when playing games of Hwatu with friends.
- you've successfully helped out an old Korean lady with finding the right bus to take.
- you find yourself pronouncing English words with an "-uh" or "-ee" attached to the end.
- Hite and Cass beers don't taste so bad after all.
- you can comprehend even the most broken English with ease.
- you look both ways before crossing the sidewalk.
- you've played chicken with cars, trucks, and motorcycles.. as a pedestrian.. and have lost.
- loudspeakers on trucks advertising fruit sales or promoting a political candidate are just background noise.
- you know that double barber poles are not a place to get your hair cut.
- you see a foreigner and suddenly are more aware to protect your belongings.
- high heels are acceptable hiking or ice fishing gear.
- you buy a pair of scissors to cut meat at home, as using a knife just feels awkward.
- kindergartners owning cell phones is not strange.
- you no longer curse at the cars driving down the sidewalks.
- you know the names of animated characters and own socks displaying their faces.
- you can sing along with K-pop hits but know nothing of what's on the radio back home.
- you update your cell phone charm on a monthly basis.
- you use an umbrella in the rain, the snow, and the sun.
- you consider the vibrating belt at the gym a sufficient way to lose weight.
- you've not only tried, but bought BB cream, and have added sunscreen as part of your daily skin care.
- you don't do a double take when you see the construction man- who is actually a dummy that quite resembles a lego guy- signaling cars to slow down.
- you're on a first name basis with the lady at Kimbap Chungguk.
- you are clueless to any references to pop culture your friends back home make on their Facebook statuses.
- you incorperate Korean terms of endearment such as "unni" and "oppa" into your conversations with friends.
- you don't mind the guy next to you on the subway sleeping on your shoulder.
- you cheer for the Korean team before your own country's during the Olympics and World Cup.
- you feel homesick when you go on a trip or return to your own country and can't wait to get back Korea: home, sweet, home.

Feel free to add more!

Day Trippin': Incheon

2011-08-13T06:29:00.011-05:00

I love Seoul. I really do. But I’ve gotten to the point where I’ve started to find myself doing the same things over the past few months. I’ve always been adamant about using my time here in Korea to see all there is to see, but as far as Seoul is concerned, I’m running out of things to do. Now, don’t get me wrong. I’m sure there are plenty of wonderful neighborhoods that I’ve yet to discover, but the adventurous side of me desires something more than the same ol’ scenery. So, recently, I decided to take a day trip out of Seoul to see what the outskirts of the city had to offer.

Incheon. For international travelers, it is the port of arrival in Korea, as it is the home of the “world’s best airport.” For history buffs, it is a city of great importance in the American/UN victory of the Battle of Incheon in the Korean War. For me, I guess it is both of these things, but it is also the landmark I use to determine which direction I need to go when accessing line 1 on the subway. Seeing as it is at the very end of the line, it takes a while to get to, and as I boarded the train one early morning, I hoped I would be able to find the city worth the long trip.

After walking out the station’s only exit, I immediately spotted the large, characteristically Chinese gateway into Korea’s only Chinatown. In the 1940s, many Chinese immigrated to Incheon during a boom in trade of chinaware, medicinal herbs, and silk. While the area became much smaller after the war, it still draws large crowds during the weekends. This neighborhood is what originally drew me to Incheon so I was eager to explore it. I was first greeted by merchants waving me into their shops; their wares included everything from traditional Chinese dresses to Chinese liquor to small marble figurines of happy Budais. Most of it was cheap souvenirsy paraphernalia, but the stores were fun to browse.

This extravagant gateway to Chinatown can be seen upon exiting Incheon Station.

Unlike many Chinatowns that I’ve been to, this one was especially clean and it was obvious someone had put a lot of effort into the aesthetics of the district. Red lanterns hung from above. Walls were painted with murals of mysterious oriental women holding parasols or vicious dragons keeping watchful eyes on the streets. Further up the hill from the entrance, I even found a cool temple amidst some winding alleys. I’ve never been to China, but I imagine that it would look something like what I was seeing.

Red lanterns line the streets of Incheon's Chinatown.

Murals depicting various historical scenes create a vibrant atmosphere in Chinatown.

Chinese restaurants were plentiful and I was eager to find a good one. Many of them serve up jajangmyeon, which is actually a Korean fusion dish of noodles and black bean sauce. I’m not a fan and despite the fact that Incheon was the city in which this beloved dish was created, I decided I would find some authentic dumplings instead. I let my Lonely Planet guide direct me to Wonbo where I had a large portion of pork-filled dumplings for just a few bucks. Koreans are not big on dessert, so I figured it would be the same for the Chinese. I was wrong. I loaded up on traditional Chinese moon cakes filled with various dried fruits and nuts and some other fried, crunchy goodies from street vendors and snack shops as I wandered the streets.

Mooncakes are sold all throughout Chinatown in different flavors like sweet potato and dried fruit.

Chinese restaurants dot the streets of Chinatown, often with very extravagant facades.

Eventually, the lantern-lined streets came to an end and I found myself entering Jayu Park, or "Freedom" Park. One striking asset to the park is the very modern Centennial Monument, built to commemorate 100 years of friendly relations between Korea and the US. Coincidently, it was Memorial Day and I saw tons of elderly men walking around the area, wearing hats noting their veteran status; I couldn't help but wonder how many of them were near this spot during the war. I soon found myself at a point overlooking the port of Incheon. Nearby, in a garden filled with colorful flowers, a regal statue of MacArthur also looked out over the port, offering his own protection of this important city.

Goods views of the port of Incheon can be seen from Freedom Park.

I headed back to the station to hop on a bus that took me to Wolmido. I could hear them before I could see them. Hundreds of adrenaline-hungry couples, families, and friends screamed as an assortment of carnival rides dipped, swung, and dropped. This permanent carnival was just a few steps away from the boardwalk, which was my destination. I was shocked that I hadn’t heard of this place that so resembled Coney Island. There were all of your typical boardwalk games, offering oversized stuffed animals as prizes and stalls selling cotton candy, sodas, and dried squid (which I’m guessing cannot be found on Coney Island.) There was an amusement park and plenty of entertainment stages, some of which featuring troupes of dancers and singers well past their prime. I found a nice table outside a café and parked it there. While sipping on lemonade, I watched the people pass by happily and the boats drift along in the background.

A Viking Ship rocks back and forth at the permanent carnival in Wolmido.

What would a boardwalk be without a giant ferris wheel?

With my quest for finding a new place a successful one, I felt that all I had seen in Incheon was well worth the hour long trip. Korea is often coined “Dynamic Korea” in tourism ads and as I continue to see more of Korea, I can understand why. Incheon is not far from Seoul, but it offers visitors something that can’t be found within the city limits. I headed toward the subway station, ready to get back to familiarity, but not before just one more moon cake. Or two.

Mermaids of Jeju

2011-08-11T04:34:00.021-05:00

Rain, rain, go away. The downpours have been non-stop since the beginning of June and by the end of July, I thought I was going to go crazy if I had to stay indoors any longer. I was eagerly looking forward to my vacation in Jeju-do, Korea's own subtropical island, but was a bit upset by the weather forecast predicted for the week I'd be there. In fact, as I headed to the airport for my flight, a landslide was about to occur in Seoul just a few hours later. The deadly weather would end up killing over 30 that day, in addition to causing severe damage to one of the ritziest areas of Seoul. So, when I landed at the Jeju airport to be greeted by sunshine and blue skies, I felt a bit guilty. But, this was my vacation and I was determined to enjoy the nice weather. Yes, I deserved it.

I spent five days on the island with my good friend Tira. I usually like traveling alone but she was a great travel buddy and I was really blessed she was there. Jeju itself is actually quite big and while it is accommodating to foreigners, there is a lot of effort involved in getting around if you can't speak Korean. So, thanks to her, my time there was more of a vacation and less of a headache. We spent a lot of time on the palm-lined beaches, cooling off in the clear, emerald water when it got too hot. We snapped photos with the iconic harubong. We ate well. Really well. Jeju's famous black pork was almost worth the trip and I also got to try some new dishes, such as cold cactus naengmyeon (noodles) and raw fish bibimbap. We managed to get ourselves up at 4:30AM for a breathtaking sunrise on Seongsan Sunrise Peak. Yet, the highlight of my trip was learning about and getting the opportunity to meet real Korean mermaids- minus the gills and all- known to the locals as haenyeo.

The word haenyeo literally means "sea woman" and this title appropriately defines their lives. These women make a living by making daily diving trips into the sea to gather seaweed, clams, and abalone. Using no special diving equipment, they're able to hold their breaths for up two minutes while collecting the seafood. Maybe these sea women have gills after all. In the old days, it was common for haenyeo to begin this job at the tender age of 10 and even today, it is generally an occupation that runs in the family. Women worked for 6 or 7 hours a day, not including additional hours spent on the farm. Unlike on the mainland, families in Jeju desired baby girls, as they ensured livelihood. Despite the Confucius values of Korea, women were not only the heads of their families but they also held a special place in society. So much so that they were recognized for leading the anti-Japanese campaign and protecting the haenyo culture during the occupation.

Statues of haenyeo can be found all over Jeju Island.

Many haenyeo can be spotted diving just off the coast while walking on the Olle-gil.

During the 1970s, there was a big boom in the seafood export business to Japan. As a result, haenyeo started raking in the big bucks. We learned on our trip that if a man married into a family with at least one haenyeo (even if she was the grandmother), he did not have to work. Seriously. Jeju women were wearing the pants well and were able to provide for their families without financial worries and began to send their daughters to college. Perhaps it was at this point that would-be haenyeo had a taste of the sweet city life and started to focus their career ambitions elsewhere. Whatever the reason, the number of haenyeo has been declining rapidly since then. In the 1960s, there were 30,000 of these women. In 2003, there were less than 6,000. A big portion of the remaining haenyeo are over 60.

This unique seaweed is one of the wares of Jeju haenyeo. It was often banchon (a side dish) at many of the restaurants where we ate on the island.

Tira and I were waiting for our hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus on Udo Island when I spotted two halmonis (grandmothers) donned in the signature black wetsuit. I got excited and Tira agreed to come with me to chat with them. Welcoming us with big smiles, they exuded a friendliness that only elderly women can. With Tira translating, I curiously inquired about their age. When they replied that they were in their 80s and had been haenyeo since their early teens, my mouth about dropped to the floor. I joked with them and mentioned that most American women their age could barely get around without a cane. I asked if they had daughters who had also joined the profession. "No," they replied, "we wouldn't wish this job on our daughters or any of our family." As Tira helped them up and assisted them in zipping up their suits, I could see what they meant. Though they continue to do their jobs, their hard work has taken a toll on their bodies. They walked slowly, hunched over with knees bent. Being a haenyeo is no doubt an honored profession, but it's a lot of work. As our driver signaled for us to board, we snapped photos with the lovely women and exchanged bows of respect. As Tira and I headed off to explore the island, they no doubt looked for morsels of the sea, as they had done everyday for the past 60-something years.

Haenyeo prepare for a dive on Udo Island.

Meeting these lovely "mermaids" was a highlight of my trip to Jeju.

During my trip to Jeju, I almost forgot that I was in Korea. The pace is a bit slower, the air is fresh, and the vibe is purely tropical. Yet, in other ways, it felt much more culturally Korean than the mainland. Houses are still made of stone and the inhabitants embrace tradition. The haenyeo are truly a cultural treasure of Jeju. Yet, I suppose that in a country that is so apt to rapid change, traditions such as the jobs of these amazing women will one day fade away. But some things, like legacies, never die. I like to think that the stories of these women of the sea will continue on and inspire their listeners. Korea is a man's country after all, but lest anyone forget that on a charming island off the southern coast of Korea, women once ran the show.

Edward Kwon and Korea's Epicurean Evolution

2011-06-24T05:49:00.009-05:00

Pizza topped with corn. Pasta served with sweet pickles. Tacos drizzled with anti-sour cream. Korea has never really done western food well. In the past, one would have to travel all the way to Itaewon to get decent but overpriced European/American cuisine. Even then, the restaurants are mostly foreigner owned. Fortunately, things are changing.

Recently, western food has peaked the interest of those living in the land of kimchi. It's certain that Seoul's own Edward Kwon has had something to do with it. As the first celebrity chef of Korea, Kwon has created a food frenzy with his restaurants and culinary projects in the city. Having worked as a top chef in the ritziest hotels of America, Asia, and the Middle East, he has the knowledge and the passion to glamorize the food business and convert the average Kim into a bona fide foodie.

I had actually never heard of him until I got the opportunity to appear as a 'guest judge' on an episode of his television show, "Yes Chef." The show is now in its second season on QTV and is very similar to America's "Top Chef" in that it's a cooking competition made up of high pressure challenges with a nice monetary prize for the winner. In the first season, Kwon quickly gained the reputation of being Korea's own Gordon Ramsey with his bad temper and impossible-to-please attitude. There were about 30 other foreigners invited to participate in the filming and we caught our first glimpse of Kwon while waiting to be seated. "I'm sooo fucking tired!" were the first words he said as he pushed through the doors while passing to the kitchen where the two teams of chefs were preparing our meals. He was quick to shoot us a friendly a smile upon noticing us and threw in a bit of flattery, "Wow... look at all these beautiful women!" It was a good save; I'm sure he's a charmer outside the kitchen.

My friend Suzanne and I waiting to be seated as guest judges on Season 2 of "Yes Chef."

We were able to chose from one of two menus which featured dishes using grapes as the main ingredient. Everyone at my table ordered the same meal: grape salsa with a barley nacho, 3 cheese risotto and grape salad, and a steak topped with Gorgonzola and blueberry. We were told to vote on whether or not we liked it. I found that while it wasn't necessarily gourmet, it was pleasing to the palate so I voted in favor of the menu. Besides having cameras in my face as I scarfed down the food, it was a good experience. But, I was left curious about this Edward Kwon character and became eager to learn more.

We chose the white team's menu, featuring a grape salsa and risotto and grape salad.

An advertisement for "Yes Chef" on a Seoul City bus announces the airing of the second season.

So, after Google stalking him and learning that in addition to his flair for western cuisine, he has also done well in his efforts to globalize Korean food. I also discovered that he has opened quite a few restaurants around Seoul. I decided to treat myself to dinner at Eddy's Cafe, his casual dining project, located in the basement of the Shinsegae Department Store at the Express Bus Terminal near Gangnam. The first thing I noticed was the cool, modern interior but I was quickly distracted by the menu, which apparently changes every so often. Featuring sandwiches, salads, soups, and a few entrees, it was a bit limited but as I've learned, this aspect of a restaurant is almost always a sign of better quality food. The ingredients of the items also excited me as most of them, like fig, truffle, feta cheese, and mint, are rarely found in Korea. Yet the biggest surprise was the price; everything on the menu was under 15,000 won ($15).

I settled on the charcoal grill baby young chicken with mustard green, roast balsamic apple, and warm vinaigrette with a petit salad. The servers spoke English and the service was excellent but what really did it for me was the food. All of the flavors blended well together and the portion size was ridiculously large. It was the first time in a long time that I wasn't able to finish my entire meal. I will be sure to return many times and have plans to check out his other restaurant, The Spice, a fine dining joint that is said to offer just as tasty course meals at a non-gourmet price.

A cool, modern interior creates a nice dining atmosphere at Eddy's Cafe in Gangnam.

A rare find in Seoul, Eddy's Cafe offers delicious, fresh salads without funky, heavy dressings.

With a light charcoal flavor, the chicken pairs nicely with the soft, sweet balsamic apple.

As the foodie lifestyle continues to flourish in Seoul and the tastebuds of its citizens demand genuine Western cuisine, it's certain that other Korean chefs will begin to take on a similar mission of Edward Kwon's. I don't think it will be long before specialty ingredients will line the shelves of grocery stores and Korean housewives will be experts at making pot roasts, pies, and pizzas- without the corn, of course.

Passion for Fashion

2011-06-23T04:49:00.016-05:00

In Korea, appearance is everything. While this fact applies to all aspects of Korean life from business representation to food presentation, it's especially true in one's personal looks. Plastic surgery is the norm, as it is believed it will give one the edge in landing a big company job or will catch the eye of a rich bachelor. Women spend hundreds of dollars on whitening creams to lighten their skin and even more on eyelash extensions and hair treatments. Even kids have perms. Yet, one of the most noticeable aspects of Korean appearance is that of fashion.

From my observations, it seems that fashion in Korea is more about looking good and less about the expression of personal style. Though Koreans have the perfect body frame and skin tone to pull off any style in any color, they generally seem to follow the trends of celebrities. One doesn't have to travel far to find the same styles donned by the celebs; the wares of each and every clothing store in Seoul are almost identical. Luxury items are also a sign of social status; women wait for hours in line at Louis Vuitton all to leave having purchased the same handbag. I guess it's understandable in a way. Seeing as Korea is a Confucian society, where individualism is believed to upset the balance of the whole group, it's not surprising that many of its people are seemingly indistinguishable as far as appearance is concerned.

Despite the similarities in appearances and in fashion, there are some younger Koreans who are going against the grain and differentiating themselves with their unique sense of style and their ability to create their own fashion trends. My friend Dada is one of these types. As a student at Dongduk Women's University, a school known for its fashion program, and a freelance designer, she is contributing to the creative force that is pushing Seoul forward to be the next big fashion capital of the world. I was unable to attend this year's fashion week so I was super pumped when Dada invited me to her school's graduation fashion show this past week.

Me with Hyejun and Dada, Seoul fashionistas.

When I arrived at the venue, Dada immediately brought me backstage to meet her friends who had pieces in the show. She was eager to show me various designs that they no doubt spent weeks working on. It was pretty hectic as everyone made their last minute preparations so we headed to our seats. I didn't know what to expect, seeing as it was my first fashion show and all, but I was immediately excited as the lights started flashing and the high-energy catwalkin' music came on.

While these dresses aren't necessarily wearable on the streets, they were made beautifully and exhibit the creativity of the students of Dongduk University.

Fierce!

Not only was I impressed with the clothes, but was also amazed at the models' ability to wear them without falling over.

There were various concepts presented throughout the event and each clothing item was designed with that particular inspiration. Some of the concepts included machinery, classic cinema, and famous artwork by Monet and Klimt. Most of the clothes were of the high fashion class and not really wearable; still, I was highly impressed by the amount of creativity invested in each piece. My favorite pieces belonged to the Korean/Asian inspired theme. The concept included dresses designed in the likeness of a sogonghu, a traditional Korean harp, and hanoks, traditional Korean houses.

This dress was inspired by hanoks, traditional Korean houses, as seen at the tiled roof-like shoulders. Love it!

Dada's friend made this jacket, inspired by Klimt's "The Kiss" painting.

After the show, the graduates (about 100 of them) made their way down the catwalk, collecting flowers from their families and friends cheering them on. Judging by their enthusiasm and obvious talent for design, I'm sure many of them will end up becoming famous designers in both the Korean and international fashion scenes. It's my hope that as these young women (and men) help Korea to make its mark on the world that they also inspire their peers to express a similar creativity in their lives. As for me, I can only try to be as half as cool or creative as these fashionistas as I abandon my Mississippian t-shirt/flip-flop look in search of a more trendy, Korean style. We'll see how that turns out.

Ethnic Enclaves of Seoul

2011-06-07T06:43:00.003-05:00

When thinking of ways to best describe Korea, multicultural isn't exactly the first adjective one conjures up. In fact, Korea has always been known to be a homogeneous society whose citizens take great pride in their seemingly pure ethnic roots. In doing research previous to my arrival in Korea, I found that many foreigners had complaints of racism that they had experienced while living here; such rants identified the nation as a xenophobic one. Perhaps older generations may have been hesitant of foreigners living in their homeland in previous times (and who can blame them after their colonizations by the Chinese and Japanese), but I have yet to experience what these former expats had described on the internet.

Though I haven't exactly felt as if I fit in as one of their own, I have been greeted and treated as a very welcomed guest with utmost hospitality since my arrival in the Land of the Morning Calm. While Koreans may come off as a bit cold at first (especially on the subway), they are truly wonderful people once you enter their Confucian bubble. Koreans, in my opinion, treat foreigners very well, as they are often considered a novelty. Yet, I've noticed in just the short two years that I've been here that the novelty is quickly wearing off.

The number of foreigners living in Korea seems to be increasing on a daily basis; 2.2% of the nation's population is non-Korean, most of whom are migrant workers. This may seem like a small amount compared to the melting pot that is America, but it's a big number compared to the percentage just a few years ago. It's no wonder, though, that these foreign minorities tend to band together, as they share a common culture, language, and historical background. Living in Seoul has given me wonderful opportunities to learn about other cultures and I've so enjoyed exploring the various ethnic enclaves of the city.

Hyewah, or Daehangro, is located near the city center and is often described as the theater district of Seoul. While it is frequented by college students, hipsters, jazz musicians, and street performers, it is also the area in which Filipino residents congregate on the weekends. There is a rather large Catholic church near the rotary that has services in Tagalog on Sunday afternoons. When I was living closer to the neighborhood, I used to attend the services if I woke up too late to make it to the English mass in Myeongdong. I can't understand Tagalog but I loved the relaxed vibe there. While Koreans don't really acknowledge others during services, I was happy to see the Filipinos shaking hands and giving hugs to their neighbors. The priest also seemed to have a great sense of humor. After mass, attendants flock to the small but welcoming market just around the corner.

Though small in size, the Filipino Sunday Market in Daehangro offers a variety of goodies.

Wares at the market include a bit of everything from okra to phone cards to wind up toys. A lot of the food products are imports and items you can't easily find in Korea. Yet, my favorite aspect of the market is the food. Vendors set up tables and cook all of the Filipino specialties. I'd be lying if I said I could list all the names of the cuisine available, but I can say with certainty that everything I've tried is delicious. For 5,000 won (less that $5), one can get a tray of rice and his or her choice of main dishes. I almost always get a cold bottle of San Miguel to accompany my meal and fried bananas on a stick for dessert before grabbing a seat at shared tables, where strangers gather around and chat over a yummy lunch. This is definitely not common in Korean culture so it's a nice chance to meet different people and hear their stories about their lives in the Philippines. At one point, I made this a weekly tradition and the vendor knew me by name. She would get quite excited to see me, then hand-feed me her latest specialty, like the empanadas which she took great pride in.

Food vendors sell a variety of mouthwatering Filipino foods, like the classic adobo.

The lunch sets are cheap, delicious, and served up at common tables on the streets of Hyewah just a few blocks outside Exit 1.

In the southern part of the city, near the glitz of Gangnam, lies Seorae Village, an upscale neighborhood in which the majority of Korea's French population lives. It's home to the city's only French international school, which explains why most of the French families live in the area. Dotted along the main street are impressive French restaurants (crepes, quiche, and baguettes... oh my!), brilliant boutiques, and ritzy wine bars. Oh, and did I mention the bakeries? French flags hang next to their Korean counterparts and many road names in the area are of French origin. There's even Montmartre Park, a small but nice green space for soaking up some sun while enjoying your take out coffee from one of the nearby cafes. The people watching is especially great (when in Petite France, do as the French do) and hearing those around you chattering away in French makes you feel as if you are in Paris... well, almost anyway.

Even the street names of Seorae Village will have you thinking you're in France. Montmartre-gil (street) won't necessarily lead you to Sacre-Coeur but it may guide you to a nice Bordeaux. (Photo credit: Aelle)

Across the river live Indian and Russian immigrants. Alleys of genuine Indian restaurants (no Korean fusion here!) can be found near Dongdaemun Station- don't miss Everest just outside of Exit 3- and it's not uncommon to see Indian natives strolling around the area. Not far away, at Dongdaemun History and Culture Park is what has been nicknamed Little Russia. With signage displaying Russian characters, it can be a bit difficult to tell what the businesses are from the outside, but in a way, it makes exploring the area more fun. I recently wandered past a slew of Russian karaoke bars into a small market and had the granny shop keeper trying to converse with me in Russian all the while pushing traditional desserts at me to sample. Markets like this one sell Russian food, but it seems that vodka is the best seller, as it is in the neighborhood's restaurants, as well. I had never tried Russian food before my arrival in Korea but now, I'm hooked. The food is best enjoyed with company so I was happy to be invited to share a table with a Russian family on my last visit. A random Saturday afternoon turned into an evening of borsch, kebabs, and vodka shots. Oh, how I love the unpredictability of this city.

While there may not be much English on the drink menu at the restaurants in Little Russia, you can assume that vodka will be at the top of the list, as it is here.

I refused to try anything other than borsch as my first Russian meal. I was pleased to say the least.

These small enclaves provide for an experience of individual nations, but the multicultural headquarters of Korea is, without a doubt, Itaewon. Seoul's own mixing pot of a neighborhood is home to expats of multiple nations; walk from one side of the main strip to the other and you'll pass more foreigners than Koreans. I considered Itaewon to be the armpit of Seoul for the longest time, but I've finally started to appreciate it for what it is, despite it's unkempt appearance and overabundance of rowdy American soldiers prowling the infamous "hooker hill." Itaewon is also a treasure trove of ethnic restaurants and cultural landmarks. Seoul's only mosque is located in the neighborhood, which attracts those of Arab, Indian, Pakistani, and Turkish backgrounds. The Wolfhound, a genuine Irish bar, has become one of the few bars in the area that I like, as there's plenty of Guinness and traditional food to be had there. Other favorites are Copacabana Brazilian steakhouse, an all-the-meat-you-can-eat gem, La Bocca, the perfect place for a genuine Italian panini, and Santorini, which features Greek cuisine. Other foods found in Itaewon include French, Bulgarian, German, Indian, Chinese, Mexican, American, Japanese, and Italian, just to name a few. Some love the place, others can't stand it, but I don't think anyone can argue with the fact that it is the definition of multiculturalism in Seoul.

The Seoul Central Mosque is symbolic of the multiculturalism of Itaewon. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

As Korea continues to become a big player in global affairs, its international community will no doubt expand. The ethnic enclaves of Seoul, no matter their size, will provide the comforts of home to those who settle or visit here and give the opportunity for curious people like myself to get a taste of what those cultures are like. I've yet to visit Incheon's Chinatown or Yongsan's Little Tokyo but I'm saving them for a day when I need a mini-getaway from Korea; such excursions are quite a good value considering the cost of plane tickets these days and all.

Shilla Kings and Ancient Things

2011-06-01T07:20:00.000-05:00

May is one of the best times to visit Korea. The weather is delightful, the countryside is green, and the people seem to be happier this time of year. There’s always something going on and the festivals around the country are seemingly innumerable. With Children’s Day and Buddah’s Birthday being national holidays, I decided to take advantage of my time off to do a little sightseeing of my own and head to Gyeongju: the ancient capital of Korea.

Gyeongju is located on the southeastern coast of the country and is easily accessible by train, car, or bus. It is also a city serviced by the free shuttle promotion for foreigners sponsored by Visit Korea Year. I can’t pass up free stuff, especially when it involves travel, so I applied for a ticket a few weeks previous to my trip and was fortunate to be chosen at random for a spot on the luxury bus. The four and a half hour ride didn’t seem long at all, what with the super comfy reclining seats and the lush scenery of the mountains dotted with the pink of the azaleas that outlined our route.

One of the great things about Gyeongju, in particular the downtown vicinity, is that it is relatively small in area and is fairly walkable. It didn’t take long to find Nahbi Guesthouse, the hostel where I’d be staying for the weekend. TJ, the owner, and Peter, his assistant, were hospitable from the start and after setting my things down in one of the dorms, they pointed out all of the sightseeing spots they recommended on a map of the city. Not wanting to waste time, I rented a bike from the guesthouse and set out to see the highlights of the central downtown area.

Some of the first things a visitor notices in Gyeongju are the immense tumuli, hill-like structures that are speckled throughout the area. Similar to the pyramids of Egypt, these mounds of earth are actually burial tombs of the ancient kings of the Shilla dynasty, arguably the most influential of the three kingdoms of ancient Korea. While they are quite numerous, they are most concentrated at Tumuli Park. This park houses 23 tombs in addition to some beautiful ponds and wooded areas. There is even one tomb which has been renovated so that visitors can see what the tomb would have looked like on the inside: a wooden coffin which held the king’s body, in addition to valuable objects, sat at the bottom of the tomb which was then covered by layers of large rocks in a dome-like fashion. The structure was topped with a thick layer of clay, which was then covered with dirt and grass. Inside the model tomb, there are also artifacts such as pottery and jewelry that were commonly placed in the tomb alongside the king or member of the royal family.

Tumuli Park is beautiful as it is historical.

After taking a look around the tombs, I hopped back on my bike and headed in the direction of the Cheomseongdae Observatory. Built in the 7th century, it’s apparently the oldest surviving star-gazing mechanism in Asia. Honestly, I doubt that people were able to view the stars very well from the thing, as it wasn’t very high. Not so much impressed, I cycled down through the Wolseong Park and watched hundreds upon hundreds of families flying kites. It happened to be Children’s Day so I imagine every parent in Gyeongju had the idea to take their kids to this park. There were also plenty of young lovebirds wandering the grounds, decked out from head to toe in some very creative couples' outfits, a true sign that spring has arrived in Korea. Despite the crowds, it was still really beautiful and it was nice to see so many people enjoying themselves. I made a few laps in the Gyerim Forest, the supposed location in which the first Kim of Korea was found as an infant in a golden box alongside a rooster. I finally stopped for a rest at the Rape Flower Field and bought an ice cream from a kind gent selling out of an icebox attached to his bicycle. As people passed me, they waved and smiled and timidly said hello. I was loving this place already.

Spring flowers outline walking paths in Wolseong Park in the center of Gyeongju.

Anapji Pond was my final destination for the day. Having once been a playground of the royalty, it still retains its stately charm. With traditional Korean architecture settled alongside the pond, it’s without a doubt one of the most striking landmarks in central Gyeongju. I tried to wait for the sun to set, as it is said that its beauty is intensified amongst the flood lights in the evening, but a chill was building in the air and I didn’t want to be stuck in the cold. So, I biked back to Nahbi just in time to join the other guests for the nightly rooftop party.

Anapji Pond was once a playground of Shilla royalty. Nowadays, it's a picturesque tourist spot popular with both Korean and foreign visitors alike.

There was a great group of people staying at the hostel and each hailed from a different corner of the globe. I was pleasantly surprised to meet a family from just a few hours from my own hometown and was caught up chatting about Southern food and culture for a good while. As we all threw back a few brews, we shared travel experiences and some good laughs while the staff cooked us a midnight snack of spaghetti. I slept well in the comfortable dormitory before heading off early the next morning.

After befriending a few fellow Americans the night before, we decided to head out together to visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, the cultural jewels of Gyeongju. We caught a bus to Bulguksa only to be herded onto the temple grounds with hundreds of other tourists. It was a free-for-all but fortunately we were able to eventually get away from the crowds as people dispersed throughout the complex. We passed pagodas, wandered through bamboo groves, and added prayer rocks to an impressive stony garden near one of the temples. Bulguksa was all very beautiful and the architecture, said to be the best existing example of Shilla architecture, was a visual treat. Still, we were anxious to get up to Seokguram. Opting out of the hour long hike, we hailed a cab up the mountain and soon found ourselves following a woody walkway. Just as we were enjoying the peaceful stroll amidst the hanging lanterns displayed for Buddha’s Birthday, we ended up at the tail of the line of hundreds to see the grotto.

Camera-toting tourists scrambled throughout the temple grounds during our visit to Bulguksa; nevertheless, the temple exuded spirituality.

Lanterns decorated Bulguksa and Seokguram in preparation for Buddah's Birthday.

The weather was nice, and the scenery from the mountain top was stunning, so there was no reason for complaining about the line. We reached the grotto soon enough but were a bit upset to learn that we would not be able to take pictures once inside. We would only have a few moments to view the grotto, then we would be moved along. For the short time we were there, however, we marveled at the architectural splendor of the construction of the site. A large Sakyamuni Buddha sits peacefully amongst lesser deities in a geometrically flawless domed cave carved into granite at the mountainside. Having been built in the 8th century, it was no doubt an engineering feat, considering poor access to the site and limited tools. To this day, Seokguram is regarded as one of the most impressive examples of Buddhist art in the world. Harmonious as it is aesthetic, just a look at the peaceful, smiling Buddha is enough to soothe the most discomforted traveler.

After we got back into town, we enjoyed a hearty lunch of ssambap, a famous Gyeongju dish. Or should I say dishes. Like 30 of them. Ranging from marinated mushrooms to beanpaste stew to fermented stingray (yuk!) we were able to try many different vegetables and meats that we rolled up in lettuce leaves with various sauces. It was, with a few exceptions, delicious and after having our desert of Gyeongju bbang (sweet bread stuffed with red bean), we headed back to the hostel lethargically for a nap. After a final rooftop party, I packed my bags and prepared for checkout in the morning.

We were able to get a little taste of everything at a ssambap restaurant. A typical spread includes meat, vegetables, soup, and sauces.

Before leaving, I visited the Gyeongju National Museum to learn more about Korea’s history. There were halls of artifacts, like those found at the excavation of Anapji Pond, and all of the exhibits offered a lot of interesting information about various aspects of Korean life throughout the years; it was the perfect way to end my adventure into the ancient capital. I wasn’t quite ready to head back into the modernity and fast-pace of Seoul; my little getaway to Gyeongju had provided an interesting glimpse into what Korea was like thousands of years ago and had enthralled me with its old-world allure. But, the bus wasn’t stopping, so as I dozed off as the sun set, back to the future I went.

Dreams Come True

2011-05-28T23:27:00.027-05:00

In middle school, I used to dream of being a pop star, as I am sure many girls of that age do. I even formed a singing group with two friends (coincidentally named 2AM) and demanded regular rehearsals for non-existent gigs. Despite my lack of actual talent, I used to pray for a chance to get to perform on stage in front of thousands of screaming fans. Ten years later, those prayers were unexpectedly answered.

Last week, a Facebook friend/employee of the Korean Tourism Organization posted a status saying that she was looking for foreigners interested in sharing a stage with K-Pop idols. It didn't say much other than that, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to inquire. As it turned out, applicants would be performing the opening dance number at the 2011 Dream Concert. Once she called to confirm that I was still interested, I hesitated taking the opportunity, seeing as I have two left feet and all. But, after thinking it through, I figured it would be absurd of me to pass up this once-in-a-lifetime chance of being a part of something so big, even if I made a fool of myself. So, as per her request, I quickly learned the overly adorable, Native American-inspired "Ya Ya Ya" by T-ara, filmed myself doing the dance in my super small apartment and sent it in my "audition video" with fingers crossed. I was surprised to hear the next day that I was accepted, though I think my approval had less to do with my dance skills and more to do with my non-Asian face.

The song we would be performing to was a compilation of snippets from some of the hottest K-pop groups: DBSK's "Why (Keep Your Head Down)", 4Minute's "Mirror Mirror", 2PM's "Without You", Kara's "Lupang", and last but not least the classic "Sorry, Sorry" by Super Junior. I busted my out-of-shape butt imitating the moves I watched on the fan-made tutorial videos on YouTube. I was actually having a lot of fun with it, but I worried that I was learning the wrong parts, as I was unable to attend the rehearsals during the week due to work.

Friday came quickly and I headed out for my first group rehearsal at World Cup Stadium in Western Seoul. I met the other dancers while we waited for the Visit Korea Year representatives to arrive. The whole purpose of our doing the cover dance for the concert, which is to be televised in 10 countries, was to show the global interest in K-Pop culture. So, I wasn't surprised to meet people of so many different nationalities. Most of the dancers were in their 20s and were students studying Korean, but there were a couple other English teachers, too. It seemed that a lot of the students knew each other and I found it so cool to see Chinese, Japanese, British, Romanian, German, Singaporean, and Americans conversing with one another in Korean.

We then headed up to the practice room to go over the dance a few times. Shortly there after, we were brought up to the stage. As we entered the field, we started noticing some of the faces around us. A lot of the group, myself included, quickly reverted to giggling schoolgirls as we crossed paths with Beast and U-Kiss. After being given our costumes, we all headed home for a rest before the big day.

Saturday morning was absolutely beautiful. I woke up feeling energized and ready for the concert. As soon as I arrived at World Cup Stadium station, at 8:00 AM, mind you, fangirls (mostly highschoolers) were already pushing their way out of the subway toward the exit. While the concert didn't start until 6:30, many of them were hoping to get a good spot in line or the chance to spot one of their K-pop crushes.

Fangirls waiting impatiently in the early afternoon to get their seats. Soon after, we saw police officers maneuver themselves to make a man-made barricade to keep the girls in place.

The excitement was tangible as we began our practice in one of the stadium's skyboxes. While we went over the dance moves and new formations (things were changed right up to minutes before we went on stage) we watched acts like Miss A and Shinee do their sound checks. What we were about to do was all becoming very real now. Before our last stage rehearsal, we were brought down into the stadium and were able to watch U-Kiss, DBSK, FT Island, K-Will, and 2PM (!!!!) rehearse. Seeing as we were the only ones watching them, we cheered them on from the front rows. I was a happy girl to say the least to be rubbing elbows with the entertainers I've come to adore since my arrival here in Korea. I couldn't believe how beautiful (albeit plastic) they all were in person. We exchanged "annyeong haseos" and "hey guys" but unfortunately there wasn't ever enough time for photo ops.

A few of us take a break from practice to pose for a photo while watching the groups do their soundchecks.

We were able to watch FT Island doing their rehearsal from the front rows... they were amazing!

Even though it was only a sound check, 2PM still rocked it out!

In addition to their looks, they are also amazing performers. It's a really big deal to be a popstar in Korea, as it usually involves recruitment by one of the big music empires in middle school with at least 5 years of training. If one is lucky enough to be put into a group after those years, they will no doubt do well at least for a little while, as fans in Asia are hardcore. Korea itself is a small country but it is the entertainment capital of Asia and Korean groups have fanbases from Japan to Thailand and everywhere in between. (Even those famous Filipino prisoners did a cover of Sorry Sorry.) So, when the time came for us to go on stage for the real deal, I felt so lucky to be doing what millions of people would no doubt kill for.

Our group waiting backstage for our afternoon rehearsal.

The group on snack break after rehearsal... along with the corndog man.

The crowd was going wild come 6:15 and as we lined up backstage I could felt my stomach trying to come up through my throat. I tried hard to ignore U-Kiss and 5 Dolls standing next to us as I went through the dance steps one last time. It kinda eased my nerves to see them going through their own dances, too. Who would've thought? They wished us luck as our big moment came.

We took positions on stage and I went down into a kneeling squat as intended. What seemed like 20 minutes later (but was probably only 3) I realized our music was not coming on and became a bit jittery as my calve muscles started to give out. With my head down, I glanced up into the audience of 25,000 screaming and chanting, "시작 시작!" ("Start! Start!"). We were told to leave the stage. WHAT?! We were all shaken up a bit but re-entered after a formal introduction. Finally, our music turned on and as we broke into "Keep Your Head Down" I looked up into the audience and felt the adrenaline hit my head. It was over much too quickly as Super Junior's Kim Heechul, Kara's Goo Hara, and actor Song Joong Ki, the 3 hosts, entered the stage. We walked off at the wrong time (oops), all jumped at the fireworks that shot off from the stage mid-dance, and I may have missed a count or two, but in the end, we were all super excited as we left the backstage area.

Over 30,000 people attended the 2011 Dream Concert!! Fans sat in their favorite group's section, waving banners and colored balloons.

The stage looked especially impressive after sunset.

Apparently the block of seats that had been reserved for us to watch the concert was taken over by other people but the guy heading the event was nice enough to find us seats on the floor. After a bit of musical chairs, we were finally able to watch the remainder of the show. It was so cool to look around and see the die hard fans segregated into groups based on who their favorite singers and groups were. They held different color balloons based on the band and held up signs to confirm their loyalty. It was all quite fascinating. All the acts performed well but I have to say Shinee was my favorite, followed by Beast and Afterschool (their tapdancing routine was too cute!). Not before long, however, the exhaustion that had been building up all week hit me hard and not wanting to deal with the overwhelming fangirl traffic on the subway, I headed out with a couple of the other dancers early. I was in bed by 11:30, K-popped out for the day.

The MCs announced the acts as the night went on.

Overall, the Dream Concert day is no doubt at the top of my Korean experiences. The concert was awesome in itself, but meeting such cool people from all over the world was just as fun. Now that 2 of my 15 minutes of fame have passed, I wonder what the other 13 will entail. A movie spot with Lee Min Ho? An extra in a Hyun Bin drama? Only time will tell. Until then, I'm content with having lived out one of my childhood dreams, all the while experiencing the K-Pop phenomenon first hand.

Watch our performance (so long as it hasn't been cut!) on June 10, 2011 at 11PM on KBS2! Hopefully I didn't embarrass myself too much!

Preserving the Past

2011-04-24T23:56:00.000-05:00

These days, I've had a hard time putting down Peter Hessler's Oracle Bones, a book that explores the recent rapid changes of China's politics, economy, and culture. I just finished a chapter which investigates the Chinese government's lack of effort to preserve traditional architecture, especially that of the hutong, water alleyways bordered by courtyard homes. It got me to thinking about what measures, if any, the Korean government is taking to ensure the preservation of the hanok.

Hanoks are one-story buildings designed in a cube, the shape of which depending on their geographical location in the country. While they are usually constructed using wooden beams and blocks of stone, other traditional building materials include straw, mulberry paper, and clay. They are truly beautiful and are undoubtedly a symbol of Korea. Though they can still be found all around the country, they are sometimes difficult to find in cities like Seoul, where re-development is rampant and the ill-effects of the Japanese attempt to wipe out Korean culture are evident. Back in the late 1970s, the Seoul government designated areas that had a particularly high concentration of these homes as cultural assets as to preserve them. The Gahoe-dong area in Jongro- also known as Bukchon Hanok Village- was one of the areas protected, as it contains over 500 hundred traditional hanoks, most of which belonged to yanban, or upper-class families.

A traditional hanok nestled in the Bukchon Hanok Village in Jognro, Seoul.

Just twenty years later, in 2000, only 2 streets in the Bukchon district remained as hanok-only areas. Again, the government issued grants and low-interest loans to both protect and conserve the areas as to refurbish the neighborhood to resemble its original self. Plans included the installation of better lighting, sprucing up the roads, and creating a tourist-friendly atmosphere by posting aesthetic maps and signs. Since then, unfortunately, many people have taken advantage of the said perks and government funding. In one case, a party used a loan to demolish a hanok and replace it with a modern two story building. This party was then issued a a general business license by government officials to use as he or she wished. It makes one wonder which side the Seoul administration is on, as they aren't actually enforcing their own policies. I'm sure corruption and politics are involved, as they usually are in this sort of situation, but I don't know enough to remark on that subject.

Perhaps one of the most characteristic features of hanoks are their tiled roofs, which are particularly beautiful from one of the many elevated viewpoints of the Hanok Village.

It's disheartening that the number of these beautiful homes are steadily declining. Yet, despite the situation, Bukchon Hanok Village is nothing less than charming. I spent my Saturday there, wandering around aimlessly. I found myself walking in circles but always finding a different path. Time seems to stand still in the small neighborhood and one can almost picture what Korean life was like a hundred years ago. The hanoks that are there have been beautifully restored from the carefully placed roof tiles to the majestic doors that mark the entrance to the homes. Many of the hanoks have been turned into museums that feature aspects of traditional Korean culture; there is a knot museum, a royal costume museum, and an embroidery museum, just to name a few. Others have been converted to upmarket restaurants and quaint tea houses. Occasionally, at a random turn of the road, a sightseer will be confronted with a look-out point over a very modern Seoul. It's only then that the current decade is obvious.

Despite this home's brick facade, the gorgeous wooden and iron door is especially regal.

I found myself trying to peek into the cracks and crevices of the walls that lined the streets. Here, spring flowers grow alongside the hanoks.

It's easy to spend an entire afternoon strolling up and down the streets, which intertwine with those of Samcheongdong, an artsy neighborhood whose atmosphere combines both old-world Korea with contemporary charm. I've turned into a bit of an art enthusiast lately which makes this area particularly attracting. Visitors can browse through free galleries in between bouts of shopping for unique pieces in decorative boutiques. It also seems that most cafes in the area offer waffles of every variety and a trip to the neighborhood isn't complete without sampling one on a coffee shop patio. At least that's what the fashionistas and trend-setters who crowd the area seem to be doing.

Cutlery hangs on the wall of this restaurant's patio in Gahoe-dong. While it doesn't necessarily give off the old-world vibe, it adds charm to the neighborhood.

Everything about Samcheongdong oozes charm; the simplest of objects come across as artsy.

The Bukchon Hanok Village is a delightful place that has something for everyone: delicious food, good shopping, and a lot of great places to snap couple photos. Yes, there is plenty of that to be seen, too. But, the best thing about the neighborhood is that it preserves the beauty of traditional Korean culture. While the debate over hanok conservation is heated amongst residents of these areas, as well as city officials, I hope that something can be done to preserve the district's ancient splendor. As I've said many times before, it can be hard to locate charm in Seoul. It would be a shame to see something as beautiful as the Korean hanok to become a thing of the past.

For more information about preservation efforts as well as news regarding hanok conservation, please visit this website: http://www.kahoidong.com/index_e.shtm .

Chickeny Deliciousness

2011-04-22T07:39:00.009-05:00

I've really come to know and love Korean food. It took a while for me to acquire a taste for the distinct, bold flavors of Korean cuisine, but after two years of eating it, I now prefer it on any given day. Not only is it (generally) healthier as it's packed with vegetables and nutrients but it also has far less preservatives and fat compared to what one would find in Western foods. Don't get me wrong- there are plenty of fried foods easily attainable on the streets of Seoul and the red meat that's so popular amongst nationals isn't exactly fat-free, but those are the exceptions. Some Korean foods are borderline healthy, combining both flavor and nutrition; those are usually my go-tos.

It's really hard to pick a favorite Korean food, but if I absolutely had to, it would be dalkgalbi. It was the first Korean food that I truly adored and I have since referred to it as Korean jambalaya when describing it to friends and family. Perhaps it was the fact that I found a food similar to one of my home that initiated my love interest with the dish, but even now I can't help but to droll when I think about it. While it's name literally translates to chicken (dalk) meat around the ribs (galbi), the dish is much more than that. While the chicken is the main ingredient, it's the combination of spices and vegetables that really give it oomph. The dish is said to have originated in Chuncheon, a city about two hours east of Seoul. When I learned that the city is now connected to Seoul via the subway, I decided it would be a perfect day trip. Yes, I am totally the type of person who will travel two hours for good food.

After arriving at Chuncheon Station, I hopped in a taxi and headed to Myeongdong, a small replica of the neighborhood of the same name in Seoul. It's heavily trafficked by fans of the uber famous Korean drama Winter Sonata, as the area was used as a filming location for the show. I was really shocked to see droves of Japanese tourists following their tour guides like packs of ducklings, as I hadn't imagined Chuncheon to be a big tourist destination. But, that's the power of the Korean wave for ya. I quickly located Dalkgalbi Street and was again surprised by the lines of people waiting to get a table at one of the many restaurants there. It was already past lunch time and I worried that I wouldn't be able to find a place that would serve me, as I was traveling solo for the day. Most of the establishments required two diners at minimum for each dish. Fortunately, I was shooed into a place that only had a few customers inside; I had my doubts that the food wouldn't be good but I figured I'd give it a try.

Dalkgalbi Street: a landmark of Chuncheon and one of the most aromatic alleys of Korea.

A plate of 300 grams of chicken breast marinated in deliciousness was promptly brought to my table along with all the fixins: chunks of sweet potatoes, chewy pressed rice cakes, cabbage, green onions, and lots of thick gochujang, Korean hot pepper paste. The waitress began to mix the ingredients on an oversized skillet that sat upon a gas range built into my table. As she cooked away, I enjoyed the freshly made varieties of kimchi. When the food was ready, I wasted no time in scooping generous spoonfuls onto lettuce leaves to make the typical Korean wrap. Despite the restaurant being empty- I think the other places were tourist traps anyway- the food was incredible. I inhaled all of it in pig-like fashion, thankful that no one else was there to watch me.

All the ingredients of dalkgalbi before being mixed together and cooked at the table.

Usually when I eat dalkgalbi with friends, we order rice to have it mixed in with the chicken toward the end of the meal, hence the jambalaya analogy. But, seeing as I had eaten 2 portions, I decided that ordering rice would be gluttonous of me. I paid my bill and decided some exercise was in order to work off those calories I had consumed. I hailed a cab and boarded a ferry to Jungdo Island. It wasn't much more than a campsite for families but I was able to rent a bike and ride it around the practically empty bike trails circling the island. While I had hoped to find a few cafes there, I was quite content with the silence and serenity of biking alone, especially when I spend most of my time with kindergartners.

Serene bike paths encircle the small recreational island of Jungdo in Chuncheon.

Heading back to the city, I found myself quite content with a belly full of yummy food and a clear mind. The two hour trip was definitely worth it, as the dalkgalbi of Chuncheon really is beyond comparison. Nevertheless, I'm determined to be able to cook up the dish myself. I have a few months left to perfect my cooking skills and master the recipe while in Seoul. Come November, I'll round up the essential ingredients to bring home to family and friends some of the best flavors Korea has to offer; I have no doubts that dalkgalbi will be a favorite.

Spring Has Sprung

2011-04-21T03:44:00.011-05:00

It's official. After a long, cold winter, spring has finally arrived in Seoul: old men gather around plastic furniture at local convenient stores to drink makeoli, cafes and restaurants spruce up their patios, and best of all, the flowers bloom. While the magnolias and azaleas are stunning, no flower can compare to that of the cherry blossom. While the flower is often associated with Washington D.C. or Japan, it is just as iconic in Korea. Each year, residents and foreigners alike eagerly await the arrival of cherry blossom season as March turns into April. Last year's winter was particularly harsh and drawn out so I had just missed the flower festivities when I left for a visit to the homeland. I made sure that I would get my fill as this year's spring came around. And oh, did I.

Last week, my school took our kindergartners to Seoul Children's Grand Park. The weather couldn't have been better and I'm pretty sure the teachers were just as excited as the kids to get away from school and spend some time in the sun. Children's Grand Park is a rare patch of urban green space that sits just north of the river and boasts attractions for people of all ages, despite it's name. There is an amusement park, botanical garden, entertainment venues, sports facilities, and a gorgeous water fountain that plays music. It's also known for it's zoo, which was the main destination of our trip. The zoo wasn't much to write home about, but the kids enjoyed looking at the animals that were there. Considering that the weather was the warmest we've had in a long time, I think the animals were a bit confused; they were all sprawled out sleeping like you'd find them on a hot summer day.

Cherry blossoms are a key ingredient to a beautiful Korean spring day. Here, they bloom next to a traditional style building at Seoul Children's Grand Park.

There were thousands of kindergartners there and I was pretty nervous about losing one of ours. Only half joking before the trip, I had told my co-teacher that we needed to order leashes for our youngest class. Sure enough, there actually were plenty of kids from other schools that held onto ropes as their teachers led them through the park. I think my school will invest in a few of those for next time. While I kept a close eye on my class, I kept the other on the flowers and cherry blossoms surrounding us. It was the most color I had seen since autumn and I was nothing but smiles. Flowers of all colors blanketed the grounds, while the cherry blossoms hung over sidewalks, providing for photo-op after photo-op. The trip was enjoyed by all and I felt cured of my winter blues.

My students make the "V" for a photo next to a garden on our recent field trip.

The next day, I woke to find it overcast but comfortable. With just a light jacket on, I headed out to Yeouido, an island smack dab in the city center of Seoul. I was meeting my good friend Saemi for the Yeouido cherry blossom festival. As you can imagine, these festivals occur all throughout the country, but this one is quite popular as it's easily accessible to those living in the city. It's projected that at least 4 million people attend each year. And with good reason. As soon we arrived, Saemi and I were both in wonder at the awning of pink that hovered above us. Cherry blossom trees lined a walkway that seemed to go on forever. Couples snuggled on benches placed under the trees and photographers positioned fancy cameras at every possible angle, eager to get the best possible shot. We bypassed the vendors and enjoyed the scenic walk until we both got a bit hungry. We had packed a picnic lunch and parked it on a grassy area overlooking the river. It was so nice just to be able to be outside, but it was even more enjoyable to be catching up with a good friend over yummy, mostly-homemade food.

Cherry blossoms weren't the only flowers on display at the Yeouido festival. Various arrangements were spread throughout the area.

Our picnic lunch of fruits, veggies, kimbap, and yubuchobap, compliments of Saemi's mom.

After we got our fill of picnic food and cherry blossoms, we parted ways. I was glad that we had been there on a weekday morning, as the crowds started pouring in by the time we left. I heard it was even more brutal on the weekend.

Saemi and I in front of some trees on the main cherry blossom lane.

Sadly, the cherry blossoms disappear just as fast as they arrive. While the rain we had earlier this week is partially to blame, the wind that's been blowing through these past few days hasn't helped, either. Yet, their parting is just as beautiful. As the wind hits the trees, hundreds of petals are pulled off their branches and are dispersed with the air currents. At first glance, it seems like snow, what with the softness and silence, but the green of the surrounding areas confirms that it's the wrong season. Just a week after the prime of their blooming, the cherry blossoms now cover the streets of the city while leaves grow through where the flowers had been on the branches.

Cherry blossom "snow" covers the ground in front of the Jeongdok public library.

Still, as unfortunate as it is to see the departure of the cherry blossoms, it's delightful to see color again. With the exception of yellow... yellow dust, that is. This dust- or sand- is from the Gobi desert of China and Mongolia and each spring it blows on over to Korea. My sinuses turn into a non-stop faucet of grossness for weeks at a time and this year, it's said to be radioactive. Still, despite these claims and the fact that I have to look like Michael Jackson walking around with a face mask, nothing can put me in a bad mood. It's just too pretty and delightful not to be happy this time of year.

Scrumptious or Stran-gee?

2011-04-14T03:45:00.010-05:00

As a kid, I was probably one of the pickiest around. If it wasn't pasta, pizza, or cheese, it wasn't going on my dinner plate. There were a few exceptions like olives and artichokes and spinach. Come to think of it, I was probably Italian in a past life. I was so picky, in fact, that I had never even tried broccoli until I was in college. But, at some point in the past 5 years, I started trying new foods... and liking them. I realized that I had been missing out on so many yummy foods that I vowed never to pass on a dish without trying it first. I've found that there are very few foods that I actually dislike and my gastronomic experiences have since covered a wide range of culinary goodies, including some stranger ones that are essentially Korean. Below are the strangest foods I've encountered here, but I must warn you, the reader: these dishes aren't for the faint of stomach.

Odeng (오뎅): Or, simply put, fish cake. The first time I tried this common Korean food (which I think is actually Japanese) was during a school lunch. They came in a soup and I mistook them for some sort of bread. I wasn't particularly fond of the texture, but I didn't think it was so bad. Later on, I found out that it was actually fish cake. I'm not exactly sure how it's made but a Korean friend told me that the fish are scrambled- yes, like eggs- and kneaded together to make certain shapes. It can be formed into small slices to add to tteokboggi, or longer strips to be put on a stick and sold on the streets. (They can be found everywhere and are sold for less than a dollar.) Yet, I find that the strangest way fish cake is served is in noodle soups in the form of a small oval and decorated with colorful pictures of cherries. Like I said, it doesn't taste so bad, but scrambled, colorfully printed fish turn me off, if not by the texture then the unnaturalness.

Bundaegi (번대기): If the thought of roasted silkworm larvae doesn't turn you off, then the smell will. I've acclimatized to the smells of Seoul, but the stench of these little creatures is impossible to get used to. The dish is another common street food, mostly eaten as a snack and often popular with children. I'm guessing that most of these kids don't realize that they are bugs, as a fear of insects is widespread across younger generations. Anyway, bundaegi are often smelled before seen but when I do happen to see a vendor, I hold my breath until I've passed. A year ago, my cousin and her boyfriend at the time came to visit me in Seoul. He lived in Korea as a young boy and wanted a taste of his childhood so he naturally went to the bugs. I tried one and one was more than enough. Simply put, it tasted like it smelled; Andrew Zimmern might describe them as a roasty, chewy, putrid, insecty fusion that leaves one hell of an aftertaste. Unfortunately, they were not on his agenda when he visited Seoul. I've heard they're sold canned, stewed in a nasty juice, and are available at Asian markets in the Western World, if you're feeling adventurous.

Despite their appearance, foul smell, and rather rancid taste, bundaegi are a popular street food in Korea. (Image: Korean Food Crime)

Dalk Dong Jib: This little treat translates literally to "Chicken's House of Poo" which, in essence, is chicken anus. They're usually steamed but can be served stir fried. Dalk dong jib is cooked with oil, chilies, and garnished with sesame seeds. I was a bit apprehensive to try it, but I was with a Korean friend and didn't want to come across as rude. While it was a bit chewy at first, the flavor was good and I ate until I was full. Then again, I guess anything is good when accompanied by soju. It wasn't necessarily a dish I'd find myself craving, but of the stranger foods, it was one of my favorites.

Stir fried chicken anus is more appetizing than one might imagine. (Image: Yelp)

Seonji Haejangguk: Coagulated ox blood hangover soup. I know your mouth is watering already. I was on a trip in Gangchon with a guy I was dating at the time and was super hungry as our pension was out in the middle of nowhere. Having walked in freezing temperatures to find a restaurant, I got so excited to see a place serving up dalkgalbi, my favorite Korean food. But, my ex wanted to try something a bit different, something one couldn't find easily in Seoul. So, we headed into the empty restaurant across the street. He insisted on ordering this foul sounding soup while I made sure we got a bowl of mushroom soup- the most normal looking dish on the menu. I didn't know what to expect but I cringed on the inside when the waitress set the ox blood soup on our table. There, in a bowl of salty water sat something that resembled a moldy, gray sponge. Damn that food vow of trying everything. One spoonful was all it took for me to realize I wasn't a fan; it was definitely a texture thing. He didn't like it either and quickly suggested that he eat the mushroom soup. Needless to say, that relationship didn't last long. Still, this soup is common all throughout Korea and is often consumed as a means of a hangover cure. Thanks, but I'll stick to Tylenol and water.

The nastier the dish, the more medicinal properties it's claimed to have. Cow's blood soup is considered a go-to hangover cure amongst Koreans. (Photo: Butterfly Jewel)

Sannakji: Live baby octopus. A quintessentially Korean food, and a must try for all visitors to the country, live octopus is as fun as it is tasty. It can be prepared in different ways and I've actually seen people pull them right out the ocean and go in for a bite, but I thought it would be best to take baby steps. I was with a Korean so I was instructed how to eat it, but despite his help, it wasn't too easy. The octopus was served cut into small pieces topped with some sort of green vegetable and sesame seeds, with a couple of spicy sauces for dipping. The thing was still very much alive and it danced wildly on our plate while I attempted to pull a tentacle off with chopsticks. The little guy- or part of him- wasn't going to give up easily and sucked and sucked to stick to the plate until I finally was able to pry him off, dip him in some sauce, and chew away. Chewing is the most important part of dining on live octopus, as there have been cases (approximately 6 a year) in which the octopus has used its suction cups to grab on to the eater's esophagus, thus choking him or her to death. Who would have thought that octopi could make their way to the top of the food chain?

While sannakji- live octopus- doesn't have much flavor, it's super fun to eat. (Image: Google Images)

Now, for the biggie. I wouldn't recommend either die-hard animal lovers or any active member of PETA to keep reading. Really.

Boshintang (보신탕): Dog soup. Yeah, I did it. I ate dog. It was something that was on my Korean bucket list, despite the serious taboo associated with it. I really try to live as the locals do when traveling and I didn't let the strangeness of the dish keep me from doing so. So, when I told my former supervisor that I wanted to try it, he gathered a few of us together one day for lunch- it's cheaper compared to dinner- to sample the local delicacy. I felt really strange walking into a dog restaurant and it didn't help that a co-worker was jokingly barking when we sat down, but I wasn't going to back out.

Tanya and I preparing ourselves to eat dog meat. Perhaps our facial expressions could have been more P.C.

First on the menu was dog meat (개고기). It came out much like other animal meats do in Korea- sliced into medium sized chunks. I took my first bite with eyes closed, figuring that might help the whole psychological uneasiness of the situation. Soon enough, I found out that the dog meat was.... well, delicious and as tender as a perfect pot roast. I guess meat is meat is meat. The soup, on the other hand, wasn't as enjoyable and was much to gritty for my taste. It was almost as if there was a blender... no, I'll stop there. It's not something I'll be eating again, but dog is considered a delicacy here and it's quite expensive. It's most often consumed by older men, as it has a reputation for enhancing stamina (along with most Korean foods). Most younger people (my generation and under) are absolutely appalled by the idea of eating dog. It's quite common to see animal rights organizations out and about, protesting dog farming, if that's what it is in fact called.

I'm a firm believer that one cannot experience a country's culture until he or she has eaten the food, no matter how unusual it may be. Korea is no different. While not all of these more bizarre foods have been exactly what I would consider delicious, I have enjoyed trying them; despite their tastes, I've cherished the experiences associated with them. If only I could muster the courage to try that peanut buttered squid stuff they sell in the movie theaters, or the dead body soup (named for it's smell, not it's ingredients) then I'd really be able to consider myself adventurous.

Hongdae DAYlife

2011-04-12T07:50:00.001-05:00

Since my arrival in Korea, I’ve spent my weekends exploring the different neighborhoods of Seoul. I feel like I’ve covered a lot of ground but of all of them, one has remained my favorite. Hongdae is known by most for its amazing nightlife and I have to admit that’s what initially kept me going back there so often. I spent many a night with former co-workers in the bars there last year. But, these days, I’ve been spending many an afternoon wandering its alleys and soaking up all the hipness the area has to offer.

When visiting Hongdae, I usually follow the same route, headed in the direction toward the club area. But, on Saturday, I decided to take a left after exiting the subway station and spent a delightful three hours discovering a new side of the neighborhood. I couldn’t find any street signs and I’m not sure if this specific part of the area has a special name, but what I did stumble on were streets and alleys that oozed quaintness. Charming cafes were painted in pastel tones and potted flowers welcomed their patrons at the door. It also seems that putting an old-fashioned bicycle in front of a business solely for the purpose of decoration equates to instant charm; I saw at least ten of them on my walk. There were many coffee houses with patios and balconies, which is quite a find in Seoul. Upon peeking inside the cafes, I noticed the interiors were just as cute at the facades and couples and groups of friends chatted away at wooden tables over lattes.

A Hongdae cafe... or perhaps a bakery. Either way, it's super cute and inviting.

A patio with lots of character outside of a Rastafarian bar.

An overstuffed teddy lures customers into this shop, full of vintage nick-knacks.

I had already consumed about 5 cups of coffee that morning at brunch with my co-workers so I decided to pass on the cafes and spend my time inside the just-as-charismatic boutiques. I especially enjoyed the vintage shops which, in addition to selling some really beautiful dresses, were adorned with kitsch- old suitcases, record players, sugar jars, and vintage toys just to name a few items. Many of the places I visited had clothes at reasonable prices, too, and I was super excited to pick up a new denim jacket, a spring essential.

Bicycles + Flowers in Watering Can= Instant Charm

Wandering still, I noticed a mural painted on a tall, concrete building. I couldn’t see much through the tinted windows, but found the door to be unlocked. I moseyed on inside to find a small art gallery with some really profound contemporary pieces hung on the walls. Yet another cool thing about Hongdae- you never know what you’ll find behind any given door.

Interesting art inside a Hongdae art gallery.

Taking a short walk across the neighborhood, I headed to the Hongdae Playground. There’s always something fun going on there, and I’m dying to check out the headphone dance parties held there on the weekends. On Saturday afternoons during the warmer months, the ‘Free Market’ takes place; students of Hongik University (famous for its art programs) and artists in the area gather to sell their handmade jewelry, painted shoes, and other really cool, unique pieces. There are caricature and sketch artists willing to draw up your portrait for a few bucks, as well. Bands play in the performance area and since the playground is small, you can hear the music from streets away. Not to be missed are the waffle sandwiches stuffed with different flavors of ice cream for 1,000 won (less than a buck) at a nearby stall. Before Frommer’s or Lonely Planet can do it, I’m going to say that Hongdae Playground is to Seoul as Yoyogi Park is to Tokyo. Sure, it’s a lot smaller, but it’s nevertheless an environment that fosters personal style and unusual antics. The highlight of my trip to the Free Market on Saturday was an old man, probably in his 60s, who twirled into the playground, capturing the attention of all. Wearing a red shirt showing his stomach, short denim overalls, black tights, fingerless gloves, and a red beanie, he performed some very unique dance moves possibly inspired by Richard Simmons. Such a sight would never be seen- or enjoyed- in other areas of the city.

Vendors sell one-of-a-kind pieces at the Free Market at the Hongdae playground.

Hongdae is a place for personal expression, much like that exhibited by this colorful gentleman.

Despite the trendy bars, the excellent shopping, and the delicious food to be had in Hongdae, my favorite thing about the neighborhood is that it’s super hip. It’s very much a headquarters for artists and underground/independent musicians. So many Koreans dress the same, have similar hair styles, and act conservatively; it’s really quite boring. But, in Hongdae, unique, personal styles can always be seen and those wandering the areas are less apt to be conformists. I get excited when I see mohawks or tattoos, as such styles go against the grain of the expectations of Koreans. Likewise, it’s great to see people with an identity, caring less about what others think and more about doing what makes them happy. Especially when they’re in their 60s, rocking a funky getup, and dancing along with life.