[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

North Avenue Grill

7225 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa WI 53213 (map); 414-453-7225; northavenuegrill.com
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: Tiny "new American diner" that serves breakfast all day, along with homemade soups, sandwiches, shakes and amazing burgers Want Fries With That? Fries are a MUST. They're hand cut, crispy on the outside, light on the inside, and seasoned well
Price: Peppercorn Horsey burger, $8.95; Build-your-own burger, $6.95; Oreo shake, $3.95

Milwaukee isn't really much of a diner town. We've got a few, but they're a little bit overblown and overpriced. It's a weird thing, really, considering Milwaukee's got working-class roots.

So it took a little bit of searching to find a diner that wasn't one of the big tourist-attraction ones. No, neither politicians nor Rachael Ray have visited it like some other diners (ok, one in particular). But I'm willing to bet that North Avenue Grill has some of the best diner food in the city—and I'd stack the burgers up next to any other restaurant's, too.

North Avenue Grill recently came under new ownership at the beginning of the year. I hadn't eaten there before, but it's hard to imagine that the burgers could have been much better than they are now. The owner, Mike Topolovich, is also manning the grill, which is a great thing in this case. You can tell by the food that he really cares about sending out great product.

The half-pound burgers were thick and juicy, even if they were a little bit above the requested medium. There was still a little pink in there though, which is certainly better than a lot of places do with "medium." And in the cooks/owners defense, a salesman happened to come in as my burgers were on the grill—it's an open kitchen—which may have distracted him for just a minute too long.

But no worries, they were still some of the best burgers I've had in a while. The beef was well seasoned with salt and a good amount of black pepper. They were griddled on a flat top but still retained a nice char around the edges.

Onions turned out to be the star toppings of the night, on both the Peppercorn Horsey burger ($8.95) and a build-your-own option. The horsey burger was topped with crispy onion strings, which were freshly breaded while the beef was on the griddle. They were perfectly crunchy and not greasy at all.

The griddled (fried) onions on a build-your-own burger were just as delicious. I mean, look at some of those deep, dark caramelized bits. They were mostly sweet but with a little bite left. They're exactly the kind of fried onions other onions aspire to be.

The Horsey burger was topped with a relatively strong horseradish cream sauce. If you like horseradish, you'll love it. There wasn't too much sauce to make the bun soggy, either. The only thing I'd change is applying the sauce underneath the onion strings, as they got soggy quickly in the sauce.

When I think diner, I think good old American cheeseburger, which is why I went with American cheese and fried onions on the build-your-own ($6.95). Sometimes you really just have to have that gooey cheese, and here it definitely worked. The cheese stuck the perfectly toasted bun to the patty, making one cohesive sandwich, and I love when that happens.

The fries that come with the burgers are not to be overlooked. In fact, I could go here and make a meal just out of fries. They're hand cut and perfectly crunchy on the outside while being light and fluffy on the inside. They're tossed in a bowl with black pepper-heavy seasoning before they're served.

They also just started serving shakes for the summer, so I snagged an Oreo shake ($3.95). While it was a little bit thin and could have used more ice cream, it's still a great compliment to a diner burger and fries.

North Avenue Grill may not be the most famous diner around, but it should be. It's tiny, quaint, and the food is excellent on top of being extremely reasonably priced. I'm looking forward to going back to try the all-day breakfast menu, in classic diner style.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Famous Dave's

5077 South 27th Street, Greenfield WI 53221 (map); 414-727-1940; 191 locations across the US and one in Canada; view all locations at famousdaves.com
The Schtick: Smoked meats and southern-inspired food geared at families and groups. Each table has six sauces and a roll of paper towels
The Burger: Smoked brisket burgers mix brisket into the ground beef. It's not bad but might make you wonder why you didn't just order a less expensive brisket sandwich Want Fries With That? Thumbs up for the crisp potato wedge fries, or try one of numerous other sides
Price: Devil's Spit burger, $10.99; Ultimate burger, $11.99; BBQ Nachos (small), $5.99; side of mac and cheese, $2.29

I love Famous Dave's Devil's Spit BBQ sauce. It's my preferred sauce from the grocery store whenever I have any type of barbecue at home. It's one of the few commercially-made sauces I've found that actually has a good bit of heat to it. Not so much that it's a hot sauce, but enough that it's hotter than a typical barbecue sauce.

When I heard Famous Dave's promoting their new Brisket Burgers I was intrigued. And when I saw that one was named the Devil's Spit Burger, I was excited. But when I tried the new Devil's Spit Brisket burger, I was mostly just confused.

The problem really stems from something Famous Dave's anticipated, and tried to solve: Why would you order a burger at a barbecue place? I guess there are probably some people who don't enjoy their barbecue. I suspect that Texans, for instance, would not dare set foot in a Famous Dave's if it wasn't for their nephew choosing it for their 10th birthday party. In that case, a burger might be welcomed.

"And who doesn't love barbecue sauce, right? And smoked brisket? Fantastic, we'll just throw some into the burger!" is what I imagine the focus group to have said. This is where I start getting confused, though: When you add so much smoked meat and sauce to a burger, at what point does it stop being a burger? Why wouldn't I just order a brisket sandwich?

Frankly, the brisket sandwich would have been more enjoyable than the two burgers I tried. The one saving grace was the great charbroiled flavor, like from a backyard grill. But if you had blindfolded me, I would have never guessed there was ground beef somewhere in there.

There's smoked brisket chunks—HUGE chunks in some cases—mixed in with the ground beef. This is great for flavor but little else. The combination of ground and shredded meats together makes for a slightly odd texture. While I ordered the burgers with "some pink"—the way my server asked—the ground beef was way overcooked. That dried out the brisket, too. A travesty to even mediocre smoked meat.

The Devil's Spit burger ($10.99) didn't have all that much Devil's Spit on it. I still ended up squirting a puddle on my tray for dipping. The pepperjack cheese wasn't all that peppery, but at least there was a lot of it. "Hell Fire" pickles were not hellish or fiery in the least; they tasted like sweet pickles.

Pulled pork topped the Ultimate burger ($11.99), and in combination with the brisket in the patty, it made me ask once again, why order the burger at all? The good thing about this burger was that the pulled pork distracted you even more from the overcooked ground beef. Everything else on the burger—cheese, bacon—just got lost.

Burgers come with a choice of side, so I went for the Famous Fries. I actually quite like these. They're kind of a mildly seasoned potato wedge, but with a nice crunchy coating on them. Perfect for sopping up Devil's Spit. Definitely skip the mac and cheese unless you like mushy pasta in bland, congealed sauce.

For an app, I tried the BBQ Nachos ($5.99). House-smoked cheddar, Wilbur beans, and Famous chili all intrigued me, as did the pulled pork. Too bad the cheese was of the bland sauce variety, the beans were thin and runny, and there was no chili to be found. I believe that there were a few shreds of the smoked cheddar, but they weren't even melted and couldn't be discerned. The best part was by far the pork, but it definitely doesn't make these worth getting again.

It's not that I wouldn't go to Famous Dave's again; I've been there a bunch of times and will probably go back. But I'll stick to barbecue and tried-and-true sides, like fries and cornbread muffins. Unless you really can't decide between a burger or barbecue, I suggest doing the same.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

School Yard Bar and Grill

1815 East Kenilworth Place, Milwaukee WI 53202 (map); 414-291-8990; schoolyardmke.com/
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Brand new bar in a nightlife hotspot focuses their menu on burgers with unusual toppings and bold flavors Want Fries With That? Fries are standard seasoned waffle fries; try the chips or slaw if they don't interest you
Price: The Bully burger, $9; The Country Boy/Gal burger, $9; Queso Dip, $6

Located on a stretch of road lined with crowded bars and late-night eats is School Yard Bar and Grill, one of the newest kids on the block. While they won't be turning away the bar crawl crowd, they're also focusing more heavily on the food they serve, and burgers in particular.

The menu is divided into three categories: apps, tacos, and burgers. You'd expect there to be a bit of a disconnect between those three things, but there are many crossover ingredients and elements, making the menu more cohesive than you might imagine.

It also paves the way for some uncommon burger toppings. The Country Boy/Gal burger ($9), for instance, is topped with pulled achiote-seasoned duck, roasted corn relish, and adobo sauce. Incidentally, this is the second burger in a row I've tried with duck, and this was much better than the last. The duck was tender and succulent, the texture of a soft pulled pork.

The thick adobo sauce added tang and a mild spice to cut through the richness of the duck. The corn relish and a sprinkling of queso fresco were largely unnoticeable on the burger, but they added a visual appeal to all that annatto-stained food.

The beef was hand pattied and coarsely ground, though I'm not so sure they're using a scale to weigh out the advertised half-pound of beef; they seemed to be on the skimpy side. The beef in both burgers I ordered was cooked past my requested medium, but it remained tender and was seasoned well. Toppings helped make up for any lack of moisture in the beef, especially the moist duck.

Toppings on the Bully burger ($9) were more common—cheddar, bacon, roasted garlic mayo, and a fried egg—but were also mostly done well. The super thick-cut bacon ate more like smoky ham than crisp bacon, though that's not a complaint. The thick coating of roasted garlic mayo tasted incredibly strong on its own, but it blended well when eaten with the rest of the burger. I would've preferred the egg to be over easy instead of over hard, but hopefully that will come as the kitchen gains more experience. The buns should stay; the yellow bread was soft but sturdy and held up to the messy toppings.

Also noteworthy: The Teacher's Pet burger comes topped with peanut butter mayo. I asked to try it, and it's quite good, though not as creamy as I'd expect anything with "mayo" in its name to be. It's more like an Asian peanut sauce, and I imagine I'd like it better than just straight PB on a burger.

Burgers come with your choice of waffle fries, chips, or slaw. The waffle fries were pretty standard and came seasoned with coarse salt, which was a little too much on top of the already-seasoned coating. I'll try the slaw next time.

I did enjoy sopping up the last of the queso dip app ($6) with the fries. A soup crock of thick cheese sauce with lots of peppers and tomatoes came with a huge pile of freshly-fried tortilla chips. It definitely feeds a crowd.

The flavors and foundation of fantastic burgs are there, but you can tell this bar hasn't been open long and they're a little rough around the edges. Our server was clearly brand new and was learning the ropes, too. With a little more time and experience, I think School Yard might have staying power.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Stubby's Pub and Grub

2060 N Humboldt Blvd #1, Milwaukee WI 53212 (map); 414-763-6324; stubbyspubandgrub.com/
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Big pub burgers try to be fancy-pants but come up a bit short, especially for the price. Try the 53 taps or small plates instead Want Fries With That? Don't think the Pig Sticks are all about bacon flavor, and enjoy them and the dipping sauces for what they are
Price: B+B Gastro Burger, $15.95; Stubby's burger with fries, $13.95; Pig Sticks, $6.95

The menu at Stubby's Pub and Grub has evolved over time, most notably changing from typical bar food to ubiquitous gastropub fare, coinciding with the hiring of a new head chef in 2011. Now the menu is what most barflies would call "fancy," with a number of (very good-sounding, though not tasted) small plates and nibbles.

My experience with the food was a mixed bag. It almost seems that while trying to reach a certain level of uniqueness, they've forgotten some basics, at least with the burgers.

The eight-ounce Angus beef patties looked fantastic—they were well charred and had uneven edges, the tell-tale sign of being hand pattied. When I cut into them, though, the beef was finely ground and tightly packed, giving them an unpleasant sausage-like texture. Because of that treatment, the patties were also tough and chewy, though that may have also been a symptom of being cooked over my requested medium.

Strangely enough, there was still juice dripping out of the beef. I'm not quite sure how they did it, but kudos to them for that. The flavor of the beef was flat, something better seasoning could take care of easily.

Topping the B+B Gastro Burger ($15.95) was something I've never seen on a burger before: duck confit. I was intrigued, but the duck was a little dry and the flavor was a little bit of a disconnect from the rest of the burger. Even so, I made sure to pick it all off and eat it when I couldn't finish the burg.

Also topping the same burger was a delicious, sharp four-year cheddar, an (overcooked) fried egg, grilled tomatoes that I didn't even realize were there, arugula, and whole grain mustard hollandaise. The sauce tasted great, even though it was somewhat lumpy and thick. It was suspiciously similar to the mustard aioli served with an app.

Stubby's Burger ($13.95) was better, topped with barbecue pulled pork, cheddar, bacon, and onion straws. The pork was abundant and the bacon was very crispy with just the right amount of smokiness. The super crunchy onion strings gave a nice textural contrast. I wish the barbecue sauce was less like a sweetened ketchup, though.

The highlight of the meal was by far the Pig Sticks appetizer ($6.95). The menu calls them "baconized French fries." Fresh rosemary and parmesan cheese overshadowed the bacon bits, but they were delicious enough that you didn't really miss the punch of bacon. The accompanying mustard aioli was fantastic—I'd recommend anyone that doesn't really like mustard to give it a try. It's creamy and tangy with a mild mustard flavor.

Burgers come with homemade chips—in my case, stale homemade chips. For an upcharge you can get french fries, but they were incredibly overseasoned with what seemed like seasoned salt mixed with mild chili powder.

Many of the small plates sound fantastic and fun, but the burgers fell flat, especially for the price. Do yourself a favor and sample some of the 53 tap beers while noshing on some snacks instead, preferably on the large patio overlooking the river.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Burke's Irish Castle

5328 W Bluemound Rd Milwaukee, WI 53214 (map); (414) 453-6088; burkesirishcastle.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Irish bar tops their bland burgers with other meats for flavor, but they just turn into a big mess Want Fries With That? Waffle fries upgrade not worth it considering the homemade chips are crunchy and hot
Price: Sconnie burger with fries, $11; Smoke House burger with chips, $10; Chips and dip app, $6

When Derry Hegarty passed away in 2011, whoever took over his namesake restaurant and bar would have big shoes to fill. Derry moved to Milwaukee from Ireland in 1965 and started his bar in 1972. He's now buried in the cemetery across the street, and you can even see his gravestone from the front door—he's always watching over the place.

Unfortunately, I'm not too sure he'd be happy with what he sees anymore, judging by the burgers I had at Burke's Irish Castle, the name of the renovated restaurant that's taken over the spot. I had never eaten at Hegarty's, so I can't compare the food, but all I know is that these burgers were not good.

I had two burgers: one topped with pulled pork, one topped with a bratwurst patty. If you had fed me either of them blindfolded, I wouldn't have guessed there was a burger in there anywhere. The Smoke House burger ($10) tasted like a pulled pork sandwich, and the Sconnie ($11) tasted like a brat.

The problem seemed to be that the thin, well done (we were given no option) patties had no seasoning at all. They were bland and dry as could be and offered nothing to the sandwich. I found it odd that only one of the burgers on their menu doesn't add another meat to the party, but now I understand that you need another meat topping for flavor.

Other toppings weren't very good either. In fact, the bacon on the Smoke House was the worst bacon I've ever tasted. It's like they marinated the pork belly in paint thinner first. It was so acrid and metallic tasting that I removed it from the burger.

Fried cheese curds on the Sconnie seemed to magically contain no cheese. The pulled barbecue pork, while flavorful, had lots of jiggly chunks of fat throughout. All the cheese and sauces got lost and were pretty much indiscernible.

The two saving graces of the burgers were the buns and the cole slaw. Braided challah was slightly sweet and soft with a nice toasted edge. The slaw was finely chopped with a fresh tasting, slightly sweet dressing that went well with the smoky pulled pork.

Also a bright spot were the homemade sliced bread and butter pickles. I'm usually not a fan of sweet pickles, but they weren't overly sweet. Homemade chips that came with the burgers were also good and crunchy, but the dips that came with the chip and dips appetizer were a bit boring. The smoked salmon dip barely tasted like salmon at all, and it had a weird sweetness. Stick to the plain chips, or opt for the crunchy, seasoned waffle fries for a buck more.

The new owners are keeping the Irish bar theme intact, but if you plan on heading over for St. Paddy's Day, plan on eating elsewhere first.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Stonefly Brewery

735 E Center St, Milwaukee WI 53212 (map); 414-212-8910; stoneflybrewery.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Big, messy burgers and inventive bar food at a brewery known for its brunch Want Fries With That? Fries were undercooked and underseasoned, but at least the tots were crisp and salty
Price: Burganator!, $9.75; Stonefly burger, $8.50; Jambalaya fritters special, $5

There's a little sleeper of a brewery that doesn't get much attention outside of its Riverwest neighborhood. It's got a grassroots, hippy vibe that fits right into its locale, surrounded by co-ops and urban bicycle shops.

Stonefly Brewing gets most of its attention for its weekend brunch (Milwaukee loves its brunch!), but I think it gets glossed over for lunch and dinner. That's definitely a mistake. I wasn't really expecting to have amazing burgers because I've barely even heard of the place, let alone in the same sentence with "burger," but man, was I wrong.

The winner of the night was the appropriately named Burgarnator! behemoth ($9.75). I've had beer cheese sauce on a bunch of burgers from different places by now, but I'd have to say this is my favorite of the pack. The sauce was thicker than most, and—if it weren't for my cutting in half for photos—it was nicely contained in a couple stacked rings of deep fried onion. That's the biggest complaint I've had with other burgers with cheese sauce: the sauce runs all over and there's none left on the burger. Not so in this case.

The smooth, lightly-lagered sauce covered a hand-formed, half-pound beef patty. Grilling gave the patty a backyard barbecue flavor and some light charring. Despite being cooked slightly above the requested medium it was tender and had an ample amount of moisture.

Bacon was a thing of beauty on this burger. There were at least four strips, all shatteringly crunchy with a mellow smoky flavor. The thick onion rings were a little bland, but covered in beer cheese sauce, it was hard to notice the deficiency.

Meunster, my undisputed king of burger cheeses, was my choice to top the Stonefly burger ($8.50), along with caramelized onions, romaine, and Roma tomatoes. The ton of cheese on top melted over the sides of the beef and oozed into the tater tots on the side.

The caramelized onions were sweet but seemed more like they were stewed than actually caramelized. The thickly sliced tomato told me that Stonefly would do well to use heirloom varieties in the winter. The finely shredded romaine underneath the patty wilted into nothing, unfortunately.

Even with those few shortcomings, the delicious beef and bakery bun made this a good burger. The bun looked a little dense, but was a nice middle ground between crusty, artisan-style rolls and the quintessential white bread bun. It had just enough give but enough weight to stand up to the beer cheese sauce.

Another standout was an appetizer special: jambalaya fritters ($5). Think Cajun arancini made of spicy rice, veggies, shrimp, and sausage deep fried in crispy breading with chipotle mayo for dipping. They were surprisingly amazing.

Fries and tots, both options as a side with the burger, weren't anything special. Fries were of the curly variety and underseasoned. Tots were nice and crunchy even though they looked a little pale. Next time I'll try the homemade applesauce.

If you haven't heard of Stonefly, don't worry—neither had I. But hopefully you'll remember now and make the trip, whether it's for burgers, brunch, or to try the brewery's beers.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Steny's Tavern and Grill

800 S. 2nd St., Milwaukee WI 53204 (map); 414-672-7139; stenystavern.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Burgers at this sports bar are nice to look at but pretty bland; stick with wings and apps Want Fries With That? Fries are better than the "Jamaican" potato salad, but only if they're hot and fresh
Price: Tex Mex burger, $8.99; Pub burger, $8.99; wings, 8 for $4.99

Milwaukee has so many bars—taverns, sports bars, dart bars, tiki bars, historic bars, and so on—that unless the goal is just being the corner tavern, a bar in this city needs something special to make a name for itself.

Many bars try to stand out with food, offering some of the best "bar food" available—at least, according to the bar. Sometimes the bar tries to perfect one particular item but lets everything else fall to the wayside, like at Steny's Tavern and Grill. Their wings seem to be the standout, while the burgers take a backseat in the flavor department. Although wing specials are probably what get people in the door, it should be burgers and other more substantial things that get people to come back.

While I have no complaints about the burgers being cooked properly for once(!), there was no getting around the fact that the burgers were bland. Even the Tex Mex burger ($8.99), topped with a slew of toppings, had somehow less flavor than the lighter-topped Pub burger ($8.99). It's a real shame, too, because even though the meat was a little chewy, those 1/2-pound patties were super juicy and you could tell they were hand-formed.

The barbecue sauce on the Tex Mex might as well have been non-existent since all it did was coat the burger in a glaze of thin, indiscernible sweetness. The jalapeños were mild to the point that I ate one plain to make sure I wasn't missing them. Supposedly the patty was "southwest seasoned," but you could have fooled me.

Haystack onions on the Pub burger gave it much more flavor and salt, meaning I could enjoy the beef a little bit more. Bacon was abundant and crispy, though it had a lingering aftertaste of refrigerator. The buns were toasted in copious amounts of butter and held together very well, despite the juices (or barbecue sauce) running from the beef.

Two different flavors of wings were abundantly seasoned, in contrast. Sweet and spicy garlic was aptly named—it started out like a honey buffalo sauce, ended with some heat, and had pieces of fresh garlic throughout. Cajun wings weren't sauced as much as they were dry rubbed with straight Cajun seasoning. Because they were baked and not fried, they had some charred bits on their skin, a welcome departure from the usual fried wings if you ask me.

Sides were supremely disappointing. Fries, though homemade, were delivered cold and stale. A few were cut from black parts of the potato, which was a bit off-putting. They had potential, if fresh. The Jamaican potato salad option intrigued me, but it was just celery-heavy and full of Cajun seasoning, the same that was on the wings. I have no idea how that makes it Jamaican, but it wasn't very pleasant.

Steny's is trying to make a name for themselves with food, but they could use some improvements. In the meantime, stick with their drinks and apps while you play some darts or catch a game.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Benno's

7413 West Greenfield Avenue, West Allis WI (map); 414-453-9094; bennosbar.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Burgers like grandma used to make, plus 30 different tap beers. Go Wednesdays for $5 Burger Night. Want Fries With That? Hand cut fries are deep golden and crunchy—try them topped with garlic and Romano
Price: 1/3-pound burger on Wednesday Burger Night, $5; extra patty, $1.25; Buffalo wings, $4.29

While I support the (now trendy) "eat local" motto, there are other ways to support and encourage a local community. In Wisconsin, the state where taverns outnumber grocery stores in almost every county, bars are a vital part of the community and social scene—and we're damn proud of it, too!

Besides running one such neighborhood bar in West Allis for over 30 years now, Marty Weigel has served as a district alderman, organized a local biking organization, and been active in a parent teacher association. So it makes sense that he would open Benno's as another way of serving the community while bringing it together.

Benno's most important offering is beer—they have 30 different taps that change as soon as one barrel is done—but coming in a close second is Burger Night. You have to give people something to sop the beer up with, and that can happen Wednesdays on the cheap, when build-your-own burgers start at just $5 with practically endless toppings.

It's not just cheap junk to get people in the door, either—that would be a disservice to the neighborhood. These burgers, even on busy Burger Night, are awesome. They're exactly what your grandma would have cooked up for you as a kid, in all the best ways possible: irregularly shaped hand pattied beef, sesame seed-topped Wisconsin hard rolls, and three different kinds of mustard to choose from on the table.

The beef is seasoned very well and heavy on the pepper. There are divots and knobs in the third-pound patties where it started sagging through the grill grate as it shrunk during cooking. Surprisingly, they were cooked with pink in the middle, a happy thing after the server didn't ask how I'd like them cooked.

The beef's juices were soaked up instantly by the hard roll bun, one of my favorite parts of the burger, believe it or not. The insides of a hard roll are super soft and pillowy, but it's the thin, shattering crust that makes it a hard roll. The combination of the two textures is great on an old-fashioned hamburger like this, and the structured crust keeps everything in place.

You'll need that structure when you have so many free toppings to choose from on burger night. The price includes two choices from a list of cheeses, bacon, fried egg, guacamole, and other "big ticket" items. (You can add more toppings for 75¢ each.) Then there's a long list of sauces and other toppings that are all free, as many as you want. Talk about dangerous!

Some of the best choices included bacon, which was super curly and crunchy from being deep fried, and onion strings that were crisp and light. The fried egg was cooked perfectly over easy, as requested. You can't go wrong with cheese, of course, and being Wisconsin there were at least six kinds to choose from. The one thing I wasn't a fan of was the Cajun mayo because it had so much of a dry seasoning mix in it that it was overwhelming and chalky. Other free toppings run the gamut from jalapeños to sauerkraut.

Burger Night burgs come with chips, but you can upgrade to fries, pasta salad, or various other things for $1, and I definitely recommend doing so. The fries are hand cut and homemade, something that's a little hard to find around Milwaukee, so it's a treat and easily worth the measly buck. There's a ton of grated cheese on the garlic Romano fries, if you're so inclined. They were great dipped in homemade ranch leftover from an order of super saucy, meaty wings.

If I lived closer to Benno's, this would probably be my watering hole of choice. The food was great and incredibly inexpensive (not even considering the discounted burger prices; their everyday burger prices are also low, but a little higher than on Burger Night), the atmosphere was classic Wisconsin tavern, and the service was above and beyond. I can definitely see how Benno's has been in business for so long, and I'm disappointed I hadn't discovered them sooner.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Mason Street Grill

425 East Mason Street, Milwaukee WI 53202 (map); 414.298.3131; masonstreetgrill.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order:Sundays are burger night in the lounge when you can choose from four of the best and least talked about burgers in the city Want Fries With That? Thin cut fries are super crunchy, but the massive homemade onion rings are where it's at
Price: Mason Street Patty Melt, the Ultimate Burger, and Sausalito Turkey Burger w/fries and local draft beer, $11.95

I've been to Mason Street Grill a number of times over the last few years, mostly for special occasions, and I've never had a disappointing meal. It was first on my radar because the chef, Mark Weber, had been the chef at one of my favorite seafood restaurants in the area, Watermark, which had closed many years ago due to financial reasons. Not surprisingly, Mason Street Grill's seafood and steaks are great. But I found out that so are the burgers.

Sunday night is Wisconsin Burgers and Beer night in the lounge and bar area of the restaurant. There's a selection of four different burgers, including one turkey burger. As an added bonus, you also get your choice of a local tap beer with your burger. For $11.95, it's hard to go wrong with this deal.

Since Thanksgiving's almost here, I got in the spirit of things by ordering the Sausalito Turkey Burger topped with avocado, tomato, and arugula. As the first turkey burger I've reviewed, it has set the bar incredibly high. You always hear about turkey burgers being bland and dry, but this was seasoned heavily, almost like a turkey sausage. Fresh sage and thyme were prominent, making it Thanksgiving-like without the typical cranberry sauce. It wasn't as moist as the beef burgers, but I wouldn't call it dry, either. If you need something saucy, the sweet, tart yogurt sauce with fresh herbs on the side was fantastic. The creaminess of the avocado also helped with any dryness. There was supposed to be bacon according to the menu's description, but it was omitted, and honestly I didn't even realize it was missing because the flavors were so bold. I wasn't expecting to like a turkey burger as much as I did.

The beef burgers are made with ground hanger steak. The cut's flavor is fantastic—it has a bold beefiness you'd expect from a steakhouse burger. It's not the most tender cut, however, so be sure to order no warmer than medium. Even cooked medium, the more well done edges were slightly chewy. The char from the grill was heavy, but not overwhelming.

The beef's juiciness was apparent in the eight-ounce patty of the Ultimate Burger, but the two smaller five-ounce patties of the Mason Street Patty Melt were slightly drier. Overall it was an excellent patty melt though, with really crisp marble rye, a layer of smoked provolone, and two comically enormous, fresh onion rings. While the two patties and giant rings made this a bit difficult to eat, they also helped make it one of the best patty melts I've ever had. The Caribbean Island sauce on the side definitely had a good helping of Sriracha, livening up the typical Thousand Island dressing.

The Ultimate Burger came with grilled Cajun sausage under the beef patty. The lightly smoked, mildly spicy sausage was sliced on the bias, making the burger easier to eat. The bacon could have been crisper, but otherwise it was full of smoky flavor. Wisconsin cheddar cheese wasn't a slice, but more like two ample blocks of cheese that had just melted enough. Cabbage slaw brought a little freshness to the burger, with a lightly creamy, tangy dressing. As someone who isn't a fan of pickle relish in general, I found the jalapeño relish a bit of a surprise, but since it was more jalapeño than pickle, it packed a punch without the dull, overcooked quality of bottled relish.

Besides the beer, burgers on Sunday nights also come with a cone of fries. They're super crisp and are great for dipping in the various sauces that come with the burgers, but I think thicker fries would have gone better with these hefty burgers.

If you want a burger any other night of the week (or for lunch), there is a burger on their regular menu, topped with Muenster, honey glazed onions, and house burger relish, as well as a smaller five-ounce burger on their regular lounge menu. Any of these seem like they'd be great choices, and I think Mason Street Grill has some of the best undiscovered burgers in Milwaukee.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

The Wicked Hop

345 N Broadway Milwaukee, WI 53202 (map); 414-223-0345; thewickedhop.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Big burgers cooked perfectly at a bar known for its Bloody Marys Want Fries With That? Skip the undercooked, undersalted fries and choose fruit or soup instead
Price: Build-you-own-burger, $9, toppings $0.50-$1.50; Chili nachos, $11; Bloody Mary, $9

I often (ok, always) research a restaurant before I go to it, especially for review purposes. I read other reviews, the restaurant's own website, and Yelp/Urbanspoon/Google reviews. The Wicked Hop has been on my radar for a while now, mostly because they're often said to have the best Bloody Marys in the city, and I love a good Bloody.

In reading many of the Yelp reviews, a theme appeared: The Bloodies are great, but the food and service, bluntly, suck. So are they really just riding the wave of their one signature drink and hip location? Not so, I found. In fact, my experience was practically opposite of the predominant opinions on Yelp. I didn't like the bloody, and both the burgers and service were pretty good.

The only burger option on the menu is a build-your-own half pounder ($9). I guess that's great for picky eaters, but sometimes I like having interesting choices and combos put together for me. That's a small complaint though, considering both burgers I ordered had delicious beef patties, cooked perfectly.

Cross-hatched grill marks laced the patties with a nice char, and both burgers were cooked to the requested medium. They were so juicy they soaked the bottom bun. While the patties looked to be pre-formed, the beef was loosely packed and very tender.

The beef could have used a bit more seasoning, just some salt or maybe a simple house blend. I noticed a bit of bitterness in the aftertaste of one patty, perhaps from a tad too much charring in spots. But overall the flavor of the beef was spot on.

Toppings were satisfactory, but nothing more. While both the cheddar and pepperjack had great flavor, I had to pick off bits of each before I even noticed it in either burger. Too skimpy, especially since I'm already paying a pretty penny for the burger and each topping.

Bacon was crisp, but lacked flavor besides an acrid smokiness. Sautéed onions were nothing to write home about, but at least there were a ton of them. They didn't help the situation with the soaked-through bun, though. There were parts of the bun that were complete mush even before I was finished taking photos. A less Wonderbread-like bun would do wonders.

Fries were definitely to be avoided. They arrived lukewarm and limp. I'm not sure they were ever cooked to a crisp, and on top of that, they lacked salt. You're better off with the optional side of fresh fruit, which included slices of pineapple, melons, orange and a strawberry. It was freshly sliced and abundant.

Nachos as an appetizer were just OK. The menu states they're fresh, hand-cut chips, but they didn't taste like they were. The chili I opted for on top was also lukewarm when delivered and had an odd sweetness. At least the cheese was real, and not cheese sauce.

Now on to the controversial part of this review: the Bloody Mary ($9). I thought I liked Bloodies with a heavy amount of seasoning, because I'm not a fan of plain old tomato juice. However, this one was over-the-top with seasoning. If you were blindfolded, I bet you wouldn't guess there was tomato in it. It was almost like a barbecue sauce with too many flavors going on, and too many condiments mixed together. Imagine drinking 16 ounces of barbeque sauce—it's not very pleasant. Plus, no celery! Sure, there are a million other showy garnishes, but I want my crunchy, refreshing stirrer. And I want to enjoy the DRINK, because that's what a Bloody is. This one's all garnish.

So while there were a few misses, the heart of the matter is that the beef was delicious, and made up for the other burger shortcomings.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

The Capital Grille

310 West Wisconsin Avenue, Milwaukee WI 53203 (map); 414-223-0600; locations in 24 states, full list at thecapitalgrille.com
The Schtick: Upscale steakhouse with lots of dark wood and—at this location—giant paintings and taxidermied deer heads
The Burger: Ground sirloin, bacon, and sweet onion burgers sound good, but are pretty boring and bland. The crab and lobster cake burger is more interesting. Want Fries With That? Regular fries are thin fast food-style; get the truffle fries if you prefer meatier fries (but with way too much "truffle" oil)
Price: Signature cheeseburger, $16; Lobster and crab burger, $19 (both with fries)

I've always assumed that steakhouses would have great burgers, figuring they grind premium, dry aged steak trimmings to make super flavorful patties. So I was excited to review The Capital Grille since they have a pretty good steakhouse rep here in Milwaukee and, from what I can tell, at their other locations as well.

Too bad their signature cheeseburger ($16) fell flat on its face. The half-pound patty mixture of sirloin, bacon, and sweet onion may sound great on paper, but the addition of coarse ground bacon—which didn't appear to be precooked in any way—to coarse ground beef resulted in an unappealing texture. Many bites were filled with tough, fatty bits that just wouldn't go away no matter how much I chewed.

I ordered the burger medium, but it came out over that even though our server double checked that I'd like a "warm, pink center." I guess I should be grateful it was overcooked or else I may have ended eating a ton of rare bacon. It had an ok crust, but nothing worth writing home about, and it was a bit under seasoned. It was really one of the most underwhelming burgers I've had for the price.

While I didn't get any hint of the sweet onion in the patty, I got a huge wallop of extremely strong yellow onion in the slice that came on top of it. The tomatoes were supermarket variety. The lettuce was thankfully Boston, which I feel is the ideal lettuce for a burger because of its sturdy texture that doesn't wilt easily. The melted havarti cheese was the burger's saving grace, but that can only help so much.

Also on the menu is a lobster and crab "burger" ($19), aka a crab cake with a bit of lobster claw and leg meat added in. It was better than the beef burger, but again, nothing spectacular by any stretch. It was a mostly solid mass of (non-lump) crab meat with very little filler. It was a little fishy tasting though, certainly not because it had gone bad, but maybe because it wasn't at its freshest. The citrus freak in me appreciated the accompanying grilled lemon half.

Both burgers came with fries, chips, or green beans. I got an order of regular fries and truffle fries, which came as two different cuts of fries. The regular fries were thin cut, perhaps on purpose to emulate fast food. The truffle fries were a much thicker, skin-on cut, doused in overwhelming, fake-tasting truffle oil. I wish I could have gotten the thick fries without the truffle oil. The one thing the plain fries were better for was dipping in the various sauces that came with both the burger and the crab/lobster cake. Standard ketchup, mustard with a real bite, and chive aioli came with the burger. The aioli was a good balance of creamy, garlic and onion. The seafood came with a homemade tartar sauce that was deliciously tangy with citrus and pickles.

Overall, Capital Grille's burgers were just not that good. They lacked anything that made them stand out in any way. Next time, I'd stick with the steaks.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Milwaukee Brat House

1013 Old World 3rd Street Milwaukee, WI 53203 (map); 414-273-8709; milwaukeebrathouse.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order:German sausage bar serving up a great burger, with or without a bratwurst patty Want Fries With That? Fries are limp and anemic; try the standard tots or baked beans instead
Price: Belly Buster Burger, $11; Wisconsin burger, $10.50; w/tots, +$1; sausage sampler app, $11.95

Milwaukee's German heritage can't be denied, and one of the areas where its influence is most apparent is in food, especially sausage. (And beer, but that's another blog!) In fact, when President Obama made a campaign visit to Milwaukee on Saturday, he made an unscheduled stop at Usinger's, one of the biggest sausage makers in Southeastern Wisconsin. Lucky for Milwaukee Brat House, they are located directly across the street and got to serve up brats to the President and his entourage.

Naturally, they serve Usinger's sausages. And because sausages and burgers are cousins in the great family of cookout/tailgate/backyard barbecue foods, they go pretty dang well together. Sometimes even in the same sandwich.

If you can't decide on a brat or a burger—and you're really hungry—just get both at once. The Belly Buster Burger ($11) combines a half-pound Angus beef patty with a third-pound brat patty, topped with sautéed onions and Wisconsin cheddar. It's definitely a mouthful and a little ridiculous, but that's half the fun.

The burger patty, requested medium but cooked medium well, was super juicy with pronounced crisp, blackened grill marks. It tasted fresh and mild, and though it was a little underseasoned, the heavily seasoned brat patty compensated for that. The difference in texture between the beef and sausage is striking when put together like this, especially since sausage in patty form is denser than in log form. As long as you know to expect that, though, I think it's easily worked around.

I gilded the lily a bit and added bacon as well. It was lightly smokey and not overpowering, which I liked against the heavily seasoned bratwurst.

If you deconstruct this burger to eat it—and you might have no other choice—be sure to dip the brat in Secret Stadium Sauce. Made famous at the old home of the Brewers, County Stadium, it's a richer version of ketchup with a background of "sweet" spices: cinnamon, cloves, allspice.

The Wisconsin burger ($10.50) featured the same beef patty—again, slightly overcooked but still very juicy and very good—topped with cheddar, fried cheese curds, and roasted red peppers. The cheddar was a bit of a mystery. It was almost like a sauce, but it was definitely real cheese and reminded me of Kenji's cheese slice Burger Lab.

I'm not really sure how the roasted peppers echoed the Wisconsin theme, but combined with the cheddar, they created a delicious pimento cheese effect. The curds got a bit soggy, but they had the authentic spongy texture.

Fries can definitely be skipped. They're thin cut, anemic, and boring, despite the token sprinkle of Parmesan. The tater tots are a much better choice, but you can also pick from onion rings, baked beans, and potato salad for the included burger side.

Since no trip would be complete without more sausages, I recommend the sausage sampler app ($11.95). You get one each of grilled bratwurst, Polish, and Italian in red sauce, all around a bed of kraut, sautéed onions, mushrooms and roasted red peppers. All the sausages have a snappy casing and are cooked perfectly. The pretzel bun gives a bit of a reprieve from rich, greasy meat.

So when some of your group wants burgers, and some want brats (and everyone wants Schlitz!), get everyone what they want at the Milwaukee Brat House.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Beer Belly's

512 W Layton Ave, Milwaukee WI 53207 (map); 414-481-5520; foodspot.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Hand pattied, no frills burgers are cooked perfectly to temperature but could use more seasoning Want Fries With That? Fantastic light, crispy hand-cut fries. Try them with ranch seasoning and sour cream
Price: Belly burger, $8.99; Mushroom Swiss burger, $6.99; Ranch taters basket, $2.99; Buffalo wings, $7.99

The south side of Milwaukee is a very no-frills, blue collar kind of place. (In fact, Milwaukee's airport, located on the south side, almost ended up with a giant sculpture of a blue shirt.) Beer Belly's fits in to that model in name and concept.

The bar takes up most of the small building, making it literally the only focal point. The grill and small kitchen reside at the back of the bar, so you can watch your burgers (or steaks for those special occasions!) as they sizzle on the grill. PBR tallboys are practically mandatory.

Amazingly, burgers ordered medium came out medium, even when they were different size patties. Overall these burgers tasted like they were from a really good backyard cookout, complete with perfect crosshatched grill marks that looked better than anything I've achieved at home. The grill cook knew what he was doing and obviously takes some pride in his work. The only thing the meat was lacking was seasoning. It was a little bland, and some more salt and pepper would have livened things up a little.

Burgers come standard with 1/3-pound patties made of Black Angus beef that's hand pattied daily, or you can get a 1/2-pounder for $1 more. I normally prefer the 1/3-pound, but these buns were very large in circumference, so I'd recommend upgrading to the 1/2-pound for a better bun-to-meat ratio.

Topping choices are all pretty standard. The Belly Burger ($8.99), which is their signature and comes standard with a 1/2-pound patty, is topped with cheddar, Swiss, bacon, sautéed mushrooms, onion, lettuce tomato, and Thousand Island dressing. The bacon was extra smoky and flavorful, making up for the underseasoned beef. The Thousand Island dressing came on the side, which turned out to be a good thing since it didn't appear homemade.

Mushrooms on the Mushroom Swiss burger ($6.99) were fresh and sautéed lightly. I only wished that there were more of them on the burger since they added a nice umami element.

Fries here are handcut and fantastic. Think Five Guys fries, only lighter and crispier, with less of a muddy taste. They come with the burger, or you can do what I did and just order the giant plate of ranch taters from the appetizer menu. Put your ranch dressing snobbiness aside for a second—these are seasoned with dry ranch seasoning and served with sour cream for dipping. And what's ranch seasoning more than garlic and onion powder and herbs? When you think about it that way, it's delicious, and a steal for $3. Wings were similarly bargain-priced at $7.99, and I suspect the restaurant even lost money with the large pool of hot, sweet sauce on the plate.

All kinds of people come to Beer Belly's for food from burgers to crab legs, and it's not just because it's located a couple blocks from the airport. The generous nightly specials, good service, and no-nonsense food seem to keep the locals coming in.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

O'Lydia's

338 S. 1st Street, Milwaukee WI 53204 (map); 414-271-7546; olydias.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Solid, if overcooked, burgers with lots of butter, plus great homemade apps and sides Want Fries With That? Fries are fresh cut and deliciously crunchy, as are the chips. Both are a great bet
Price: Hangover burger, $8.95; Make-your-own burger, $7.50+; Lydia's nachos, $6.95; four combo rolls, $7.50

I've reviewed many Irish pub burgers because there are countless Irish pubs in Milwaukee. For the most part, they're all pretty good restaurants, even if the burgers aren't the best in the city. O'Lydia's, in the former McGinn's space in the 3rd Ward, is no exception. Their burgers are solid, but what really stands out are the apps, specials, and service.

Let's get the bad out of the way: The burgers were overcooked. Why am I not surprised? Our server did ask what temp I'd like, and I ordered both burgers medium. Both were well done. That said, they were some of the better well done burgers I've had. There was enough fat in the meat to keep it relatively moist, and the fact that the buns were positively soaked in butter certainly didn't hurt.

The half-pound patty sported a nice char from the grill and was seasoned well with standard salt and pepper.

There are only two burgers on the menu: the Hangover with the typical egg and bacon, and a make-your-own option. The bacon on the Hangover was great—really smoky and crisp, and it didn't get lost among the other ingredients. Less successful was the egg, which came out over hard when I wanted a runny yolk to give the meat a little more oomph—but I'd still never turn down an egg.

If you love cheese, you'll love these cheeseburgers. There was so much cheese on both the Hangover and a make-your-own burger with cheddar, Swiss, and fried onions that the cheese melted over the side of the burgers and into the fries. I didn't even notice until I found a stray fry attached and bound by cheese. Between the abundant cheese and butter on the toasted bun, this is like Wisconsinite heaven.

Don't skip the homemade fries. They were crispy, though a little more greasy that I would like (or maybe that was grease from the crazy amount of cheese). Chips are also homemade if you're more into the crunchy sides. I tried them nacho-style as an appetizer, with cheese sauce, shredded corned beef, bacon, sour cream, and a few token veggies. Ultimate drunk food.

Also worth ordering are the various eggroll-style apps. To my surprise, each roll I ordered—Rueben, ham and cheese, spinach, and regular mozzarella—came with a full little cup of various homemade sauces. My favorite was the ham and cheese with the sweet honey mustard sauce. I figured the spinach roll would have a filling similar to spinach and artichoke dip, but it was more like spanikopita filling, complete with a lemony bite.

Our server was very attentive without being overbearing, and all staff we encountered seemed genuinely welcoming. The secluded patio is a nice addition in summer; just beware that it's a couple yards from train tracks. There's a dearth of nightly dinner and happy hour specials, including $2.95 burgers on Thursday nights. While there could be some improvements made to the burger, all things considered, O'Lydia's is a happy little pub.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!

[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Jake's Burger

18905 W Capitol Dr # 110, Brookfield WI (map); 262-781-1110; jakesburger.com
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: Steak-like, half pound patties ground fresh from short rib, brisket and sirloin hold their own against great toppings Want Fries With That? Fries here seem more like a filler than anything, especially since they got rid of their homemade chips
Price: Jake's burger, $9.95; Wisconsin burger, $10.95; extra patty, $3.95; fries, $3.75; side of pickles, $1.95; Spiked chocolate shake, $7

Jake's Burger in Brookfield has one of the best fancy-pants burgers in the Milwaukee area. Owners Jake and Karen Repogle also own Jake's Steakhouse in Pewaukee, and have been serving their fantastic burger there for many years. Moving this burger into a casual joint seemed a little out of place, though, like taking a steakburger out of its natural, upscale habitat.

Despite the slight identity crisis, one burger stood out: the Jake's burger. The best part was the beef, as it should be. You'd hope Jake's know what they're doing when it comes to beef since they come from a steakhouse background, and it's obvious that they do—at least, when they cook it properly (more on that later). The half-pound patties are ground short rib, brisket, and sirloin for optimum flavor and fat content. Knowing that, I ordered it medium rare, and it paid off.

The beef was coarsely ground and packed just enough to stay together during bites. Seasoning was simple, just salt and lots of sharp black pepper, enough that I could taste it distinctly when breaking off bits of meat to taste on its own. Biting into the burger was like biting into an ultra-tender steak that melted in your mouth.

Complementing the beef on the Jake's burger was cheddar (which largely disappeared), haystack onion strings, butter lettuce, oven roasted tomatoes, and a special sauce. For once, the lettuce wasn't an afterthought that I immediately picked off; the firm lettuce held its shape and crunch, a good foil to the beef. The tomatoes had a concentrated tomato flavor from the roasting, but fell apart and weren't that noticeable. The special sauce, which was more mayonnaise than ketchup, added just the right amount of sweetness and tang to the burger. Normally I'm iffy on Thousand Island-type sauces, but this one has me hooked.

What made the Jake's burger so good, besides the combination of flavors and textures in the toppings, was that the beef was cooked medium rare, like a good steak should be. The patties on the Wisconsin burger, however, were cooked well past the medium that's listed as standard on the menu and into well done, dry and mealy territory. Since I ordered it as a behemoth double, it was a huge waste of quality beef. (I suspect that many of the patrons think they want a medium burger, when actually they'd prefer it more well done, hence why the standard "medium" was really not.)

The beer cheese sauce on the Wisconsin had a great sharp flavor, but because it's a sauce, as soon as you take a bite, it oozes out and essentially disappears from the burger all together. If you order this burger, order the sauce on the side for dipping. Not only does it make it less messy, you'll probably taste it better as well.

Buns on both burgers were good, standard sesame seed buns. I wish they had been bigger, though. Even on the single burger, the bun was almost a joke and didn't do much in the way of holding anything together. The pickle chips are homemade with lots of mustard seed and fresh dill and can also be ordered as a side.

Side were pretty disappointing, especially compared to the quality of the Jake's burger. Fries were thick cut, skin-on, but weren't made in-house and needed seasoning. I was really expecting house-made fries. Potato chips, which had gotten good reviews in the past, were no longer on the menu...except that they were. Instead of crossing them out, they added an "out of stock" stamp to some of the menus, prompting us to ask what the deal was. Strange, and I bet the servers are sick of being asked about them. Spiked shakes make a nice dessert, or, let's be honest, water alternative.

We had some hiccups with service and noticed others did too. There was a 40 minute wait on a Wednesday night, so people were sitting at the small bar while waiting. Every time a table was ready, the hostess would ask the party if they had taken care of their bar tab yet, something I've never seen before. In every instance, the hostess waited while people squared up, even telling one party that it was not allowed to simply add the bar tab to their food bill. (Servers had no problem with spiked shakes, so the issue was not underage servers.) Luckily, the problems didn't go past the host or bartender, as our server was great.

This burger joint definitely caters to the upper class neighborhood it's located in, and if you can get past some rough spots, and be sure to order your burger rare, then you're in for a real treat.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

Love hamburgers? Then you'll Like AHT on Facebook! And go follow us on Twitter while you're at it!