Serious Eats: Recipes - Cook the Book

Robb Walsh's Southern-Style Chicken-Fried Steak

2012-05-18T15:55:38Z

[Photograph: Laurie Smith]

While researching Texas Eats Robb Walsh set out on a journey of Chicken-Fried Steak discovery. He ate his way around rural Texas, seeking out the best versions of this big Texan standard. Some were memorable, others not so much. But if you've ever experienced the weighty dish known as the CFS, you've got to hand it to Walsh; his search for the best steak was a stomach-stretching exercise to say the least.

What Worked: Battering a tenderized steak, crisping it up fried chicken style, and topping the whole thing off with a pepper spiked cream gravy is a Texan classic. Big, hearty cowboy fare at its finest.

What Didn't: Let's just say this is not a plate for dainty diners.

Suggested Tweaks: You can make sweet onion gravy for your CFSs by sweating down a large onion first and then proceeding with the gravy recipe.

Ingredients

serves serves 6 to 12, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes

Peanut oil, for frying
2 cups seasoned flour (recipe follows)
1 cup buttermilk, evaporated milk, or milk
1 egg, lightly beaten
12 tenderized eye-of-round steaks (about  3 pounds total)
Black Pepper Gravy (recipe follows), or your favorite gravy, for serving
Seasoned Flour
2½ cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons chili powder; New Mexico chile powder; or hot paprika
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
Black Pepper Gravy
¼ cup unsalted butter
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2½ cups milk
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper

Procedures

For the Seasoned Flour: In a bowl, stir together all of the ingredients, mixing well. You will have more seasoned flour than you need for most recipes. Set aside the balance for making gravy, or store in a tightly capped jar in a cupboard for another time. Discard any flour in which you have dipped raw meat.
For the Black Pepper Gravy: In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Whisk the flour into the butter and continue to whisk for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is ivory-colored and smooth. Slowly add the milk while stirring constantly, then continue to stir until free of lumps. Add the salt and pepper and simmer, stirring often, for about 10 minutes, until the gravy has thickened and reduced. Serve hot.
For the Chicken-Fried Steak:Pour the oil to a depth of 1 inch into a deep cast-iron skillet and heat to 370°F.
While the oil is heating, put the flour in a large, shallow bowl. In a separate shallow bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and egg. Dredge each steak in the flour, shaking off the excess; dip it into the buttermilk mixture, allowing the excess to drip off; and then dredge again in the flour, evenly coating the batter so it is dry on the outside.
Slide 2 or 3 steaks into the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them. The temperature of the oil will fall the moment the meat is added, so you will need to adjust the heat. As the steaks cook, try to keep the oil at around 350°F. If it gets too hot, the steaks will burn before they are cooked through. If it is not hot enough, the batter will be soggy. Cook the steaks for 3 to 5 minutes, until the batter is crisp and brown and the meat is cooked through. Using a wire skimmer, transfer the steaks to paper towels to drain and keep in a warm oven until all of the batches are done.
Serve the steaks with the gravy. Plan on 2 steaks for a typical serving; children and dainty eaters will probably want only 1 steak.

Robb Walsh's Indian Pudding

2012-05-17T16:40:00Z

[Photograph: Laurie Smith]

This Indian Pudding from Robb Walsh's Texas Eats is a decidedly old fashioned dessert. It's a wonderfully wobbly custard made from cornmeal and eggs and sweetened with dark molasses. Warm spices are added to the mix along with a handful of chopped raisins.

Since this is a decidedly not-so-sweet sweet, topping off the Indian Pudding with a dollop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream is pretty much a must.

What Worked: This early American dessert is lightly sweet and custardy with a pleasant hint of chew from the cornmeal.

What Didn't: If you're in market for over the top sweet, look elsewhere for dessert options.

Suggested Tweaks: Feel free to throw in your own spice blend; nutmeg, allspice, and anise would all work nicely in this pudding. Same goes for dried fruit.

Ingredients

serves serves 6, active time 15 minutes, total time 1 hour

3 eggs
2/3 cup molasses or cane syrup
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground mace
1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger
3 cups milk
1/2 cup coarse-grind yellow cornmeal
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup chopped raisins
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

Procedures

You can cook this pudding in a slow cooker or in the oven. If you will be using a slow cooker, lightly spray a medium-size slow cooker insert with nonstick cooking spray. If you will be baking the pudding, preheat the oven to 300°F, and grease a 1 1/2-quart baking dish with butter.
In a bowl, whisk the eggs until blended, then stir in the molasses, butter, and all of the spices. Set aside.
In a saucepan, scald the milk over medium-high heat (small bubbles appear along the edge of the pan). Add the cornmeal and salt, stir well, and immediately decrease the heat to low. Cook, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes, until the mixture thickens. Remove the pan from the heat. Gradually add the egg mixture to the hot cornmeal mixture while stirring constantly, then continue to whisk until smooth. Stir in the raisins.
If using the slow cooker, pour the batter into the prepared cooker, cover, and cook on the high setting for 3 hours or on the low setting for 6 hours or more, until the pudding has set. If using the oven, pour the batter into the prepared baking dish, place in the oven, and bake for 45 minutes, until the pudding has set.
Serve the pudding warm with whipped cream or ice cream.

Robb Walsh's Fresh Field Peas

2012-05-16T16:45:00Z

[Photograph: Laurie Smith]

Driving around East Texas in the summertime, you're sure to pass a fair share of farm stands selling all sorts of fresh beans (or peas)—black-eyed peas, cowpeas, crowder peas and fresh pinto beans. And while most of us are familiar with cooking them either canned or dried, fresh beans have a bite and freshness that's a seasonal thing of beauty.

Robb Walsh, author of Texas Eats, keeps his Fresh Field Peas simple with a soul food-inspired recipe that begins (as many good things do) with bacon. Onions are sweated in the bacon fat, and the peas are added and simmered with chicken broth, with a few pods of okra as a thickener, and a lone chile for heat. Fresh peas don't need too much time on the stovetop; just simmer until tender and serve.

What Worked: Fresh beans cooked down with bacon, a few okra pods, and chile makes for a soul-satisfying side.

What Didn't: No complaints here.

Suggested Tweaks: If you can't locate fresh beans around your parts, feel free to crack open a can or two of black-eyed peas and proceed with the recipe.

Ingredients

serves serves 6 , active time 10 minutes, total time 20 minutes

2 slices bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cups chicken broth
3 cups shelled fresh field peas
2 cups water
4 or 5 baby okra pods
1 fresh chile
Salt and pepper

Procedures

In a large skillet, fry the bacon over medium-high heat until it begins to brown. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until soft. Add the broth, stir, and remove from the heat.
Pick over the peas, rinse them, and place them in a large saucepan. Add the water, okra, chile, and the broth mixture, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook for about 15 minutes, until the peas are tender. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Robb Walsh's Shrimp and Grits

2012-05-15T15:25:47Z

[Photograph: Laurie Smith]

As part of Robb Walsh's Tex-ploration for Texas Eats he spent time on a shrimp boat making his way around Corpus Christi Bay trawling for the fresh, sweet little shrimp that are so good around those parts.

Texas Eats is full of plenty of wonderful recipes for the seasonal specialty that are Texas shrimp, and one of our perennial favorites is Shrimp and Grits, otherwise known as breakfast shrimp.

You can't really go wrong with sweet shrimp served over smooth grits, but Walsh steps up the recipe by sautéing the shrimp in bacon fat along with mushrooms, scallions, and garlic, creating a pan sauce that's pretty over the top. And those grits? Well, let's just say that those are the grits of Southern breakfast dreams.

What Worked: There are countless iterations of this Southern breakfast classic out there, but Walsh's version is spot on, packed full of rich shrimp flavor, crisp bits of bacon, and the creamiest, cheesiest grits.

What Didn't: All's clear here, we could eat this for breakfast forever.

Suggested Tweaks: You could always go with herb grits in place of the cheese version in this recipe, just toss in some sliced scallions and thyme. And since this is a breakfast dish, topping it off with a poached or fried egg wouldn't hurt at all.

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 1 hour, total time 1 hour

1 pound heads-on shrimp
Cheese Grits (recipe follows)
Shrimp Stock (recipe follows)
6 slices bacon, diced
Peanut oil, for frying
2 cups sliced white button mushrooms
1 cup minced green onions (white and green parts)
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 or 2 dashes of Tabasco sauce
Salt and pepper
Shrimp Stock
1 cup water
Heads and tails from raw shrimp
Vegetable trimming such as onions, carrots, celery, and parsley
Cheese Grits
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup water
1 cup Shrimp Stock
1 cup Anson Mills quick-cooking organic  yellow grits or other quick-cooking grits  (not instant)
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Tabasco sauce, for serving

Procedures

For the Shrimp Stock: In a stockpot, combine the water, heads, shells and vegetable trimmings and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to a simmer. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes to extract flavor.
Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve several times to remove any tiny shell or other bits. Use immediately, or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a week or freeze for up to 3 months.
For the Cheese Grits: In a saucepan, combine the broth and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Slowly add the grits while whisking constantly. When all of the grits are incorporated, decrease the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, until soft and creamy.
Remove from the heat and stir in the Cheddar and Parmesan cheeses, butter, salt, black pepper, and cayenne and stir just until mixed. Serve hot with Tabasco sauce on the side.
For the Shrimp and Grits: Peel and devein the shrimp, then make the stock from the heads and shells as directed, using only 1 cup water. Set the stock aside.
Prepare the grits as directed, substituting the 1 cup shrimp stock for 1 cup of the water. Set the grits aside in a warm place, or keep them warm over hot water in a double boiler.
In a skillet, sauté the bacon over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, then crumble.
Return the skillet to medium heat and add enough oil to the bacon drippings so the fat is about ⅛ inch deep. When the fat is hot but not smoking, add the shrimp in a single layer. Turn the shrimp as they color. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring, for about 4 minutes, until the mushrooms are cooked through.
Add the green onions and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute more. Stir in the parsley and season with the lemon juice, Tabasco, salt, and pepper.
Divide the grits among 4 bowls. Spoon the shrimp on top, sprinkle with the bacon, and serve immediately.

Robb Walsh's Ancho Brownies

2012-05-14T18:55:00Z

[Photograph: Laurie Smith]

Folks love to say that everything is bigger in Texas, and while we're not sure about everything, these Ancho Brownies from Robb Walsh's Texas Eats by Robb Walsh are certainly big, sweet, and spicy.

A full pound of butter and loads of bittersweet chocolate go into these perfectly gooey meets cakey brownies but it's the ancho chile powder that makes them a thinker of a dessert. The heat is subtle, but the burn builds up, making a scoop of vanilla ice cream a must.

What Worked: These dense, chocolaty brownies have just enough ancho chile powder to give them an undercurrent of heat, something that pairs beautifully with a scoop of cool vanilla ice cream.

What Didn't: If heat is your thing, you might want to consider upping the ancho quotient.

Suggested Tweaks: These brownies showed us that chocolate can certainly stand up to a little heat. We're considering experimenting with chipotle next time around.

Ingredients

serves makes 12 brownies, active time 20 minutes, total time 45 minutes

1 pound semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 pound unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
8 eggs, at room temperature
3 cups sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons ancho chile powder
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup pine nuts or pecans, toasted
Vanilla ice cream,  for serving

Procedures

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 9 by 13-inch baking pan.
Combine the chocolate and butter in the top  pan of a double boiler, place over (not touching) barely simmering water in the bottom pan, and heat, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate and butter  have melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from the heat.
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until thickened and smooth. Add the flour, ancho powder, chocolate chips, and nuts and stir until thoroughly combined.
Pour the batter evenly into the prepared pan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a wire rack. Cut into 12 squares. Serve with the ice cream.

S. H. Fernando Jr.'s Hoppers

2012-05-11T16:25:00Z

[Photograph: Susan Now]

Hoppers, a Sri Lankan roadside snack are delicate sourdough crepes made with coconut milk and rice flour. Cooked in a high-sided spherical pan, the batter is swirled around during the cooking process making for lacey-crisp edges and a tender center. S.H. Fernando Jr., author of Rice & Curry says that they're a wonderful vehicle for scooping up saucy curries, or if you're a fan of all things eggy, feel free to crack an egg in the middle of one of these guys for a Sri Lankan breakfast of champions.

What Worked: These coconut milk rice flour crepes make for great curry scoopers, and are even better with an egg cracked into the center.

What Didn't: Not quite sure where to acquire that traditional appachatti, the spherical pan used to make hoppers, we subbed in the trusty nonstick and although the presentation wasn't quite as dramatic, they tasted damned fine.

Suggested Tweaks: If you don't have rice flour on hand you can easily use all-purpose.

Ingredients

serves makes 10 to 12 hoppers, active time 30 minutes, total time 3 hours 30 minutes

1 teaspoon dry yeast
1/4 cup (65ml) lukewarm water
1 pound (454 g) all purpose or rice flour
Salt to taste
1/8 teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 cups (625 ml) coconut milk (slightly more if using rice flour)
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons oil

Procedures

Dissolve yeast in the lukewarm water. Sift flour into a bowl. Add salt, sugar, yeast mixture and mix well to form a stiff dough. Set aside to rise for 2 to 3 hours.
Add the coconut milk and a pinch of baking soda to the dough and set aside for another hour. Mix well.
Oil a hopper pan (or similar spherical pan) and heat over medium flame. Pour in a spoonful of batter and rotate pan so whole surface is covered. Cook until hopper is crispy around the edges (about 2 minutes). Continuing making hoppers, oiling pan after each hopper is made.

Variation: For an egg hopper, after pouring batter into pan, break an egg in the center and cover and cook until done.

S. H. Fernando Jr.'s Coconut Custard Pudding

2012-05-10T16:55:00Z

[Photograph: Susan Now]

This Coconut Custard Pudding from S.H. Fernando Jr.'s Rice & Curry is a tropical take on a caramel custard. Instead of cream or milk, this recipe calls for thick coconut milk resulting in a rich custard full of caramelized coconut notes, accented with nutmeg and cardamom. A scattering of crushed cashews are sprinkled on just before serving to add a crunch to the creamy custard.

What Worked: Delicate, smooth, and eggy with a soft notes of nutmeg, this custard is set off beautifully by a sprinkle of crunchy cashews.

What Didn't: While the recipe worked wonderfully, we must warn you that grating jaggery is...well, we'll just say watch your fingers.

Suggested Tweaks: Keeping with the tropical flavors of this dessert, we can see how serving it alongside slices of mango or fresh coconut would only make it that much more enjoyable.

Ingredients

serves serves 6 to 8, active time 15 minutes, total time 45 minutes plus 5 hours chilling time

8 eggs
3/4 pound (340 g) grated jaggery
2 cups (500 ml) thick coconut milk
1 tablespoon corn flour
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cardamom powder
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped cashews

Procedures

Beats eggs well in a bowl.
Add the other ingredients except cashews and mix well.
Strain and pour into a 2 1/2-quart stainless steel mold. Cover with foil and steam in a double boiler for 30 to 40 minutes until set. (The water should not boil under it but simmer gently.)
Remove from heat and allow to cool. Cover and refrigerate 5 to 6 hours. Sprinkle with chopped cashews before serving.

S. H. Fernando Jr.'s Spicy Lentil Fritters

2012-05-09T16:45:00Z

[Photograph: Susan Now]

S.H. Fernando Jr., author of Rice & Curry, calls these Spicy Lentil Fritters an Asian take on falafel, and that's a spot-on call. Subbing out chickpeas for yellow split peas makes for fritters with a great bite and the chiles, onion, curry leaves, ginger, and fennel seeds give these guys beguiling flavor, one that will have you snacking on these little fritters until every last one is gone.

What Worked: Split peas have a toothsomeness that carries over even after being buzzed in the food processor, giving these a great crunch.

What Didn't: No complaints here, although the scent of soaking yellow split peas wasn't a favorite.

Suggested Tweaks: Chiles vary greatly when it comes to heat; when testing out this recipe three jalapeños wasn't quite enough heat to break through the split pea batter. Next time we might amp it up with bird chiles.

Ingredients

serves Makes about 20 fritters, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes plus 6 hours soaking time

2 cups (500 ml) dry yellow split peas
1 onion, chopped
4 to 5 green chilies, chopped
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece ginger, finely chopped
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 sprig curry leaves, chopped
Salt to taste
Oil for frying

Procedures

Soak split peas in water for at least 6 hours.
Wash and grind split peas to a smooth, thick paste.
Mix in all other ingredients except the oil.
Form mixture into golf-ball-size balls. Cup each ball in both hands and flatten slightly so the middle is thicker than the edges.
Deep fry in oil heated to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) until golden brown. Remove to newspaper or paper towel to drain excess oil and cool slightly. They can be served hot or at room temperature.

S. H. Fernando Jr.'s Sri Lankan Chicken Curry

2012-05-08T17:00:00Z

[Photograph: Susan Now]

Chicken Curry or Kukul Mas was the first recipe that S.H. Fernando Jr., author of Rice & Curry added to his Sri Lankan recipe repertoire. It's a wonderfully creamy curry that begins by assembling a Roasted Curry Powder that lends all the rich, deeply spiced flavors to the curry.

The curry powder is a kitchen sink mix of all sorts of South Asian spices, each toasted individually, and whizzed together at the end, making for a uniquely warm blend that complements all matter of fiery chiles. But if grinding your own curry seems too daunting of an undertaking, it's worth noting that Fernando hand-blends his own curries that can be ordered right here.

Once you've got your curry, store-bought or homemade (no judgement here), you sprinkle it on the chicken along with a healthy dose of cayenne and a splash of apple cider vinegar. Here's where you have a little wiggle room. If you're pressed for time, simply let it marinate for a least half and hour and proceed, but if you have luxury of time, let it really soak in overnight.

What Worked: Fernando's Roasted Curry powder brings a level of savory depth to this ultra creamy, lightly spicy chicken curry.

What Didn't: The longer you can allow the chicken to marinate, the better. Giving the chicken a chance to really take in that roasted curry powder and cayenne is what this recipe is all about.

Suggested Tweaks: If you're worried about chicken breasts drying out, you can always swap in juicier dark meat thighs.

Ingredients

serves makes 6 servings, active time 1 hour, total time 1 hour

1 whole fryer chicken, cut into parts
3 tablespoons Roasted Curry Powder (recipe follows)
1 to 2 teaspoon cayenne pepper powder
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, sliced
2-inch (5-cm) piece ginger, chopped
1 sprig curry leaves
2-inch (5-cm) stalk lemongrass
3 cardamom pods
3 cloves
1-inch (2.5-cm) cinnamon stick
1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Roasted Curry Powder:
1 tablespoon uncooked rice
4 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seeds
2-inch (5-cm) cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
5 cardamom pods, shelled
5 cloves
2-inch (5-cm) piece pandanus (optional)
2 sprigs curry leaves

Procedures

For the Roasted Curry Powder: Toast each ingredient separately in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until fragrant and browned. Remove from heat, cool, and grind together in a coffee grinder. Store in a glass jar in the fridge.
For the Chicken Curry: Wash and clean chicken, removing most fat and split the thighs, breasts and legs.
Place chicken in bowl with curry powder, cayenne powder, and vinegar. Mix well with hands and set aside for at least 30 minutes.

Note: Marinate the chicken overnight for optimum results.

In a large pot, heat oil. Once hot, add onions, garlic, ginger, curry leaves, lemongrass, cardamom pods, cloves, and cinnamon stick. Fry until onions are golden brown.

Add chicken pieces one by one, stirring occasionally until chicken is browned.

Add a little water to the bowl that contained the chicken and slosh around to catch any remaining marinade and add to pot. Cover and cook on medium heat for 20 minutes.

Stir in coconut milk and some salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for an additional 15 minutes.

Stir in tomato paste and simmer for additional 2 minutes.

S.H. Fernando Jr.'s Deviled Shrimp

2012-05-07T15:00:00Z

[Photograph: Susan Now]

Chile plays a major roll in the cuisine of Sri Lanka. Powdered cayenne and hot peppers, both dried and fresh, pop up in nearly every recipe in S.H. Fernando Jr.'s Rice & Curry. So it's only appropriate that we're kicking off a week of Sri Lankan home cooking with a chile-laden recipe for Deviled Shrimp.

This beer-drinking snack is cooked in a base of caramelized garlic, onions and ginger, tossed with curry leaves, tomatoes, and fresh chiles and finished with a bright squirt of fresh lime juice. It's the kind of eat-with-your-hands dish that's the ideal balance of savory sour heat that makes you want to devour every last spicy shrimp.

What Worked: Fernando calls these spicy, bright shrimp a convenient finger food, the ideal snack for an icy beer. We sampled the pairing for ourselves and have to agree, it's a match made in heaven.

What Didn't: No complaints here but be warned, there's a lot of chile going on i.e. not for the faint of heat heart.

Suggested Tweaks: This recipe can be made with squid as well. Just cut your cephalopods into one inch lengths and proceed.

Ingredients

serves makes 4 to 6 servings, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes

1 pound shrimp
2 tablespoons oil
1 onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon crushed ginger
1 sprig curry leaves
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and diced
4 Serrano chiles, sliced diagonally
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper powder
2 dry red chiles, crushed
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Salt to taste
Juice of 1 lime

Procedures

Wash, clean, and shell shrimp.
Heat oil in pan. Sauté onions, garlic, ginger, and curry leaves until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes and Serrano chiles.
Add shrimp, cayenne powder, dry chiles, vinegar, and salt, and stir-fry for 2 minutes.
Remove from heat, put on a plate, and squeeze on lime juice just before serving.

Mark Bittman's Chicken Cutlets with Quick Pan Sauce

2012-05-04T16:55:00Z

[Photograph: Romulo Yanes]

Quick weeknight chicken dinner is one of those recipe topics that never gets old. And a recipe that goes from chicken in the fridge to satisfying dinner on the table in under 30 minutes, well even better. This is exactly why these Chicken Cutlets with Quick Pan Sauce from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything The Basics are such a keeper.

Not too fancy, just dredge chicken cutlets (or breasts or thighs), crisp them in butter and olive oil, move them to the oven to keep warm, and proceed with the best part of this recipe, the pan sauce. It's kind of amazing how rich a pan sauce can be, simply made by scraping the fond, adding a bit of wine, and swirling in a pat of butter at the very end. It's only a matter of minutes, but it's the sauce that really makes the dish.

What Worked: Mark Bittman calls these cutlets quick, dependable, rich, and rather elegant and we're wont to agree, it's that rich, winey pan sauce that gives them that elegance.

What Didn't: We're quite pleased with this recipe every step of the way.

Suggested Tweaks: Here are some ideas from Bittman regarding switching up the cutlet recipe:

Any Cutlets with Quick Pan Sauce: Try turkey, pork, or veal cutlets; or fish fillets here. Cooking times will vary by up to a couple of minutes per side, but the clues for knowing when to turn them and how to recognize doneness remain the same.

Chicken Cutlets with Balsamic Sauce: In Step 5, stir in 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar just before adding the butter.

Ingredients

serves 4 servings, active time 20 to 30 minutes, total time 20 to 30 minutes

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, thighs, or tenders
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup water, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish
1 lemon, quartered, for serving

Procedures

Heat the oven to 200°F. Put the flour on a plate or in a shallow bowl next to the stove. If necessary, put each cutlet between 2 sheets of sheet of plastic wrap and pound to uniform thickness; blot the chicken dry with a paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Put the oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, turn a piece of the chicken in the flour to coat it on all sides; shake off any excess. Add the floured chicken to the pan, then repeat with the next piece; work in batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan.
Cook, adjusting the heat as needed so that the fat is always bubbling but the chicken doesn’t burn. After 2 minutes, rotate the chicken so that the outside edges are moved toward the center and vice versa (don’t flip them; you want the same side in contact with the fat). When the bottom of each piece is brown, after 3 to 4 minutes, turn them over.
Cook on the second side, adjusting the heat as described in Step 3, until the chicken is firm to the touch but still a bit pink inside, another 3 to 4 minutes. To check for doneness, cut into a piece with a thin-bladed knife and take a peek. Transfer the chicken to an ovenproof platter and put it in the oven.
Add the wine to the skillet, keeping the heat at medium-high. Let it bubble away as you stir and scrape the bottom of the pan, until about half the wine has evaporated, a minute or two. Pour in the water and continue to stir until the liquid has thickened slightly and reduced to 1/4 cup, another 2 or 3 minutes. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter to the skillet and swirl the pan around until the butter melts; turn off the heat.
Remove the chicken from the oven, and if any juices have accumulated on the platter, add them to the skillet along with the 1/4 cup parsley. Stir, taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the sauce over the chicken, garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley, and serve with the lemon quarters.

Mark Bittman's Grilled or Broiled Steak

2012-05-03T15:40:00Z

[Photograph: Romulo Yanes]

Here's a scenario that we're sure at least a few of you are familiar with. A big, beautiful steak catches your eye at the market, perhaps a dry aged ribeye or a well marbled locally raised T-bone. After a bit of inner dialogue (those things aren't cheap), you take the plug and take the steak home. Then a moment of panic hits. How am I going to cook this thing? What if I overcook it and all of its beefy deliciousness is ruined?

To resolve this beef related quandary, we present Mark Bittman's Grilled or Broiled Steak from How to Cook Everything The Basics. Meat plus salt and pepper plus heat equals a great steak, no fancy stuff, no elaborate technique, just a broiler or a grill, and a knife to test the steak's doneness, and done.

What Worked: This is what Mark Bittman has to say about steak: "In a nutshell: salt, pepper, meat, heat, eat." It's a simple formula for a super successful steak experience.

What Didn't: Not a thing, we couldn't agree more with Bittman's steak methodology.

Suggested Tweaks: Here are Bittman's suggestions:

Pan-Cooked Steak: A little more forgiving than using the higher-heat method: Put 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Prepare the steaks through Step 2. When the oil is warm, put the steaks in the pan (they won't sizzle), seasoned side down, and sprinkle the tops with salt and pepper. Cook until the edges begin to turn brown, 5 to 10 minutes, then turn and cook until the steak is at least 1 shade redder (or pinker) than you like, another 3 to 5 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, turning once, until each side is seared a little, less than a minute total. Remove from the pan, let rest, and serve with the pan drippings poured over all.

Pepper Steak (Steak au Poivre): Before Step 1, coarsely grind 1 tablespoon black pepper and melt 1 tablespoon butter. Salt and pepper the steaks as described in Step 2, pressing the extra pepper into the raw steaks, then brush both sides with the butter.

Ingredients

serves 2 to 4 servings, active time 20 to 25 minutes, total time 20 to 25 minutes

2 strip, rib-eye, or other steaks (about 1 inch thick and 1/2 pound each), at room temperature
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Procedures

Prepare a grill or turn on the broiler; the heat should be medium-high and the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. If you’re broiling, put a large ovenproof skillet on the rack 10 minutes before you’re ready to cook.
Blot the steaks dry with a paper towel and sprinkle the top with salt and pepper.
Put the steaks—seasoned side down—on the hot grill or under the broiler and sprinkle the top with salt and pepper. Cook, undisturbed, until they release easily, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook the other side, checking for doneness by peeking inside with a sharp knife and checking the same spot frequently. For medium-rare, figure about 3 more minutes (if they’re over an inch thick, you’ll need a little more time; if they’re under an inch, you’ll need a little less).
When the steaks are still a little bit redder than you want them, remove them from the heat and let them rest for at least 5 minutes. Sprinkle the steaks with more salt and pepper if you like and cut them in half crosswise or leave whole and serve.

Mark Bittman's Brownies

2012-05-02T15:15:00Z

[Photograph: Romulo Yanes]

Mark Bittman eased so many folks into the kitchen, getting them chopping, roasting and sautéing comfortably and with confidence. But the area where most timid cooks can use a little help happens on the sweeter side of things, baking. In his latest, How to Cook Everything The Basics, Bittman includes extended chapters covering bread baking and dessert making, all complete with Bittman's helpful tips and step by step photos.

Bittman's Brownie recipe is a gem, simple and tasty enough to give even the most apprehensive baker that much-needed boost of kitchen confidence. Bittman's straight talk advice: "Err on the side of underbaking: An overcooked brownie is dry and cakey, while an undercooked brownie is gooey and delicious" makes for some damned fine brownies.

What Worked: When making brownies is as easy as Mark Bittman makes them, there's never a reason to reach for the mix, ever again.

What Didn't: Easy, quick, and the most delicious, there's not a thing wrong with this recipe.

Suggested Tweaks: Here's what Mark Bittman has to say as far as tweaks go:

Nutty Brownies: In Step 3, substitute ¼ cup finely ground hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts, or pecans (use the food processor or blender to grind them) for ¼ cup of the flour and add 1 cup lightly toasted, roughly chopped nuts to the batter.

Cocoa Brownies: After the brownies cool a bit but are still warm, put 2 tablespoons cocoa in a small strainer and shake it over the pan to dust the tops of the brownies.

Ingredients

serves makes 9 to 12 brownies, active time 10 minutes, total time 30 to 40 minutes

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, plus a little more for greasing the pan
3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, roughly chopped
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
½ cup all-purpose flour
Pinch salt
½ teaspoon vanilla extract, optional

Procedures

Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a square baking pan with butter or line it by overlapping 2 pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil crosswise and grease the lining.
Combine the stick of butter and the chocolate in a small saucepan over very low heat, stirring occasionally. (Or microwave them in a large microwave-safe bowl on medium for 10-second intervals, stirring after each.) When the chocolate is just about melted, remove the saucepan from the heat (or bowl from the microwave) and continue to stir until the mixture is smooth.
Transfer the mixture to a large bowl (or use the bowl you put in the microwave) and stir in the sugar. Then beat in the eggs, one at a time. Gently stir in the flour, salt, and the vanilla if you’re using it.
Pour and scrape the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until just barely set in the middle. Cool on a rack until set. If you used parchment, lift it out to remove the brownies. If not, cut them in squares right in the pan. Store, covered, at room temperature, for no more than a day.

April Bloomfield's Asparagus with Parmesan Pudding and Prosciutto

2012-04-25T15:15:00Z

[Photograph: David Loftus]

Asparagus, eggs, and prosciutto are the unofficial holy trinity of springtime cooking. And since these three are so well matched, figuring out how to prepare them isn't much of a issue. You could grill the asparagus, wrap it in prosciutto, and top it off with a poached egg, or throw these three guys in an frittata or a quiche. But if you really want to do right by your asparagus, eggs, and prosciutto, you'll want to give April Bloomfield's Asparagus with Parmesan Pudding and Prosciutto a go.

Adapted from A Girl and Her Pig, the pudding is a silky, wobbly custard with just enough Parmesan and garlic. The asparagus is pan-charred and tossed with olive oil, lemon, and a bit of basil. Served alongside slices of nutty prosciutto with crusty slices of toast, this is the kind of dish that'll have you stocking up on asparagus all season long.

What Worked: This recipe is a keeper, another gorgeous way to enjoy eggs, asparagus, and prosciutto.

What Didn't: Not a thing.

Suggested Tweaks: Parmesan custard might just be the way to go with other favorite springtime veggies—hello ramps, fiddleheads, and favas.

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 1 hour

For the Pudding:
¾ cup heavy cream
¼ cup whole milk
2 spring garlic cloves, or 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
1-ounce chunk Parmesan, finely grated
½ teaspoon Maldon or other flaky sea salt
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
For the Asparagus
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus a drizzle
16 asparagus spears, a little thicker than a pencil, woody bottoms discarded
Maldon or other flaky sea salt
A very small handful of small, tender basil leaves
½ lemon (optional)
12 thin slices prosciutto
Grilled or toasted slices of rustic bread

Procedures

Make the pudding: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Combine the cream and milk in a measuring cup. Pour half of the mixture into a medium pot, add the garlic, Parmesan, and salt, and set the pot over medium heat. Let the liquid come to a simmer and cook for 1 minute, then turn off the heat. Blend the hot mixture until it is smooth.
Combine the egg yolk and the remaining cold cream mixture in a medium bowl and whisk really well. Whisk in the hot blended mixture.
Pour the mixture into a small (2-cup) gratin dish. Let it sit for a few minutes, skimming off the froth that develops on the surface with a spoon. Fold a small kitchen towel into a square, put it into a large baking dish, and set the gratin dish on top. Pour enough water into the pot to come to about an inch from the dish’s rim.
Carefully put the pot in the oven and cook just until the custard has set; it should be slightly firm around the edges but still wobbly in the middle. Remove the pot from the oven and let the custard cool in the water, then remove it. (You can refrigerate the custard overnight, if you wish. I like to serve it at room temperature.)
Make the asparagus: Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy pan big enough to hold all the asparagus in one layer just until it begins to smoke. Add the asparagus to the pan, lining up the spears in the same direction. The oil should crackle and sizzle a bit. Give the spears a toss with tongs, sprinkle with a good pinch of salt, and spread out in one layer. Cook, turning the spears occasionally, until they’re golden brown in spots and tender but still snappy, about 6 minutes. Give one of the spears a squeeze—it should give just a little; it shouldn’t feel either very firm or mushy.
Just a minute before they’re done, sprinkle the basil over the asparagus and drizzle on a little more olive oil. Flip the spears with tongs and play with the basil a little, giving it time against the hot pan and then moving it back onto the asparagus. It’s nice if it gets just a little crispy.
Take off the heat and let the asparagus gently finish cooking in the heat of the pan, stirring now and then and sprinkling on a little more salt and maybe a splash of lemon juice, if you’d like, just until you can pick up a spear without scalding your fingers.
Serve the asparagus on a platter with the custard, prosciutto, and olive oil–lashed toasted or grilled bread alongside.

Zakary Pelaccio's Curry Leaf Fried Chicken

2012-04-18T15:30:00Z

[Photograph: Michael Schrom]

Reading through this recipe for Zak Pelaccio's Curry Leaf Fried Chicken from Eat with Your Hands, you might not believe that the finished product is really just good old fried chicken. After all, how many recipes call for brining your bird in cincalok, a Malaysian fermented shrimp sauce, and sprinkling it with curry leaves once it's out of the oil?

But after frying up a batch, we're on board with Pelaccio. All of the crispy skin and juicy meat that we love in a great fried chicken recipe is here, along with a few intriguing background notes from the brine as well as the unique herbal qualities that only come with fresh curry leaves. Exotic and familiar at the same time, and yes, good old fried chicken.

Recommended playlist and drinks pairing:

Listen: Burning Spear, Live, from '77--I'm not so into Malaysian music, and reggae is island music, too!

Drink: Cold island beer like Red Stripe or cold star fruit juice.

What Worked: Brining the chicken in the cincalok boosts savoriness beautifully and the fried curry leaves that finish this chicken push it over the top.

What Didn't: We're usually pretty happy with any fried chicken, and this one was wasn't just any fried chicken recipe. It's a great one. No changes here.

Suggested Tweaks: If you can't find cincalok, try a fish sauce brine.

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 1 hour 30 minutes, total time 1 day

For brining the chicken:
One 8-ounce bottle cincalok, a Malaysian fermented shrimp condiment
2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 dried bay leaf
1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 8 pieces
Chili Vinegar
2 cups chopped long green chilies, such as Anaheim or Hungarian Wax
2 cups distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon sea salt
For the chicken:
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup freshly ground black pepper
6 cups neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola
Coarse sea salt
4 sprigs fresh curry leaves

Procedures

The day before, brine the chicken: In a large saucepan, combine the cincalok, garlic, peppercorns, coriander seeds, bay leaf, and 2 cups water. Bring the water to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook for 10 minutes. remove the pot from the heat and let the solution cool completely. Pour the cooled mixture into a large bowl. Add the chicken pieces, tossing well, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.
The day before, make the chili vinegar: Puree the chilies, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon sea salt together in a blender. Transfer the liquid to a bowl and refrigerate, covered, for at least 24 hours to let the flavors meld. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding any solids.

That day, fry the chicken: Remove the chicken from the brine and pat it dry. Whisk together the flour, kosher salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Dredge the pieces of chicken in the flour and put them on a cooling rack set over a baking pan. Let sit them for 5 minutes and then repeat the dredging process to make sure you get a perfect coating of flour.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan to 350°F over high heat (measured on a deep-frying thermometer). once the temperature is reached, reduce the heat to medium-high to maintain it.

Working in batches, add the chicken to the oil and fry until the chicken is golden, crispy, and cooked through, about 12 minutes for white meat and 15 to 17 minutes for dark. Remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon and place on a cooling rack. Season generously with coarse sea salt.

When the chicken has finished cooking, fry the curry leaves in the cooking oil until crispy, about 10 seconds, then transfer them with a slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.

Place the chicken on a large plate and crumble some of the fried curry leaves over it. Pile a few more whole fried curry leaves on the side as a garnish and serve with a little bowl of the chili vinegar.