[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
Note: Mirin is a sweet rice-based wine. It can be found in any Japanese or Asian grocery story. If unavailable, you can make a substitue by heating 1 cup of sake with 1 cup of sugar until dissolved.
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
Special equipment: grill or grill pan
serves serves 2, active time 25 minutes, total time 25 minutes
Combine mirin, sake, miso, and sugar in a small bowl and stir with a fork until a homogenous paste is formed. Set aside.
Rub eggplants on all surfaces with vegetable oil. Heat a grill pan or prepare a gas or charcoal grill to high heat. Grill eggplant, cut-side-down until charred grill marks appear, about 1 1/2 minutes. Rotate 45 degrees and cook until checkered hash marks appear, about 1 1/2 minutes longer. Flip and continue cooking until nearly tender, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer eggplant to a large plate and allow to cool slightly.
Adjust a rack 6-inches from the element and preheat broiler to high heat. Carefully spread the miso glaze on the cut surface of every eggplant. Place on a rimmed baking sheet or foil-lined broiler pan, face up. Broil until completely tender and glaze has begun to caramelize, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with sesame seeds and scallions, and serve
[Photograph: Kerry Saretsky]
Light but punchy, this dish is made from simple salmon broiled on a bed of piperade, a stewed mix of red, yellow, and green bell peppers, onions, garlic, olive oil, and, the secret ingredient, piment d'Espelette, a red pepper powder from the Basque region of France that is lightly spicy, and very earthy. Traditionally, you would cook eggs in place of the salmon, but I like this little update that gives everyday salmon so much exotic flavor.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
Special equipment: food processor
serves serves 2, active time 20 minutes, total time 2 hours and 20 minutes
To make the piperade, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a sautépan over medium-low heat. When the oil shimmers, add onion. Cook, stirring frequently until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, bell peppers, and piment d’Espelette. Cook, stirring frequently until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juice, and season well with salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat all the way down, cover, and cook slowly for 2 hours, stirring every half hour or so.
Adjust a rack to 6 inches below broiler element and preheat broiler to high. Remove lid from piperade pot, increase heat to high, and let it boil until the pan is nearly dry and the tomato broth has evaporated. Transfer the piperade to a food processor, and pulse until roughly chopped, about 6 one-second pulses.
Transfer the piperade to a broiler-safe baking dish. Rub the salmon fillets with 2 teaspoons of olive oil, and season with salt and piment d’Espelette. Place the salmon on the piperade, and broil for 10 minutes, until the top is golden brown, and the salmon is cooked through. Tear some mint over the salmon. Serve with warm bread.
[Photograph: Sydney Oland]
Note: For a faster version, you can substitute the pork stock with 2 cups of store-bought low sodium chicken broth and two envelopes of gelatin. Sprinkle the gelatin over 1 cup of cold stock and set aside until hydrated while heating up the second cup. Pour the first cup with the gelatin into the second cup when hot, and heat until boiling. Continue the recipe with step 3. For the crust, lard can be substituted with shortening, butter, or a mix.
About the author: Sydney Oland lives in Somerville, Mass. Find more information at sydneyoland.com (or read eatingnosetotail.com)
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
Special equipment: 9 inch spring-form pan
serves serves 8, active time 1 hour, total time 4 hours plus overnight
For the Stock: Combine trotter with hock, bay leaves, carrot, onion and peppercorns in a large stock pot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 4 hours, topping off the pot with additional water if trotters become exposed. Strain stock into a large pot, reserving trotter meat if desired. Discard solids. Place strained stock over medium-high heat and simmer until reduced to about 3 cups. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a container, let cool, cover, and refrigerate overnight. The next day, skim fat off of surface.
For the Filling: Combine ham, ground pork, allspice, black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and marmite. Mix until ingredients are well combined. Cover and set aside.
For the Crust: Place flour in a large bowl and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. In a small saucepan combine lard, milk and water and place over medium heat until lard has melted. Pour lard mixture over flour and, using a wooden spoon, mix until dough forms.
Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour the spring-form pan, then roll 3/4 of dough into a disc about the size of the bottom of the spring-form pan. Using your fingers press the dough up the sides of the pan. Place the filling in the pan, then roll the reserved dough into a dish the size of the spring-form pan, Brush edges of dough with beaten egg then place on top of pie.
Cut a steam vent in the top of the pie, brush with remaining egg, and place in the oven for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes lower the temperature to 325°F and cook until golden brown, about 1 hour longer. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly.
Heat stock in a small pan. Carefully pour through the steam vent in the top of the pie until the pie is completely full and the stock begins to come out of the top. Transfer to fridge and allow to set for at least 30 minutes before serving.
About the author: Denise D'silva Sankhe is a writer & creative director by profession. But that's only when she isn't eating her way across India. She recreates this delicious cuisine in her Mumbai home, which she shares with her newly-married husband, who has long since given up his determination to have salads for dinner.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
serves serves 2, active time 30 minutes, total time 2 hours
Rub the lamb on all surfaces with the ginger/garlic paste and salt. Allow to rest while you make the masala paste, or up to overnight in the refrigerator.
To Make the Masala: Preheat cast iron pan over high heat until smoking. Reduce heat to medium. add cinnamon, poppy seeds, chilis, coconut, coriander, cumin, and cloves. Cook, stirring and tossing constantly until fragrant, about two minutes. Transfer mixture to a bowl and allow to cool completely. Transfer to a blender, add onion and pulse, adding 1 cup of water in small increments until a smooth paste is formed.
Heat oil in the heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Reduce heat to medium-low and add masala paste. Cook, stirring constantly until oil separates, about 10 minutes. The oil should take on the red color of the masala at this stage. (Take care to stand out of the way, masala pastes splutter.)
Add the lamb pieces and potato and stir until coated with masala paste. Add 2 cups water, stir to combine, and season lightly with salt (broth will reduce, so do not overseason). Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a bare simmer, and cook, covered, until the lamb is completely tender, about an hour and a half. Season to taste with salt.
Garnish with a sprinkle of lime and the coriander leaves. Serve hot with a loaf of bread or white rice.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
Note: For best results, use prime, bone-in ribeye steaks. Ask your butcher to cut them at least 1 1/2-inches thick. Each bone-in steak should be about 1 pound. Boneless steaks can be used as well. They should be about 12 ounces. New York Strip steaks can be used in place of ribeye.
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
serves makes 2 large steaks, serving 2 to 3, active time 15 minutes, total time 1 1/2 hours, or up to 4 days
Season steaks liberally with salt. Set on a plate and let rest for at least 40 minutes, or up to 4 days. If resting longer than 40 minutes, tent loosely with plastic wrap and transfer to refrigerator until ready to cook.
Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Season steak with pepper and place on cooler side of grill, cover, and cook with all of the vents open flipping and taking temperature every few minutes until steaks register 115°F for medium-rare or 125°F for medium on an instant read thermometer, 10 to 15 minutes total.
Transfer steaks to hot side of grill and cook, flipping frequently until a deep char has developed and internal temperature registers 125°F for medium-rare or 135°F for medium, about 2 minutes total. Transfer steaks to a cutting board and allow to rest for at least 5 minutes and up to 10. Carve and serve immediately.
A spicy, finger-licking shrimp boil has the makings of a bib-requisite backyard bash. [Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]
Note: Timing is everything when it comes to a seafood boil, but the time ingredients will take depend largely on factors like potato size and whether or not shrimp are frozen. In other words, visual cues are key. So are napkins aplenty.
About the author: Jennifer Olvera is a veteran food and travel writer and author of "Food Lovers' Guide to Chicago." Follow her on Twitter @olverajennifer.
Special equipment: Large stockpot, large metal strainer
serves serves 6, active time 45 minutes, total time 1 hour
Combine horseradish, vinegar, ketchup, mayonnaise and Sriracha in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Bring water, beer, Old Bay, cayenne, bay leaves, ½ tablespoon kosher salt, lemon juice, reserved lemon halves, and garlic to a boil in large stockpot over high heat. Skim foam from top. Add potatoes, cover and cook 10 minutes. Add smoked sausage and boil for another 4 minutes before adding corn. Cook for 7 more minutes, then add shrimp and cook until shrimp just turns pink and is no longer translucent, about 3 minutes.
Immediately drain cooking liquid and discard lemons and bay leaves. Pour contents of pot into large serving bowl, platter, or on top of a paper-covered table. Sprinkle with additional Old Bay, if desired, and serve with prepared sauce, Tabasco and napkins.
[Photograph: Kerry Saretsky]
This is my favorite way to cook salmon, and it's also the easiest. Just lightly butter the bottom of two boneless, skinless fillets, as though you were buttering a piece of bread. Sit them in a hot skillet to get nice and crispy, and then top the salmon with a mound of buttery breadcrumbs spiked with whole grain mustard, Dijon mustard, and fresh thyme. Slide the whole skillet under the broiler, and wait for five minutes, until the crumbs are golden brown and the salmon is done. The crumbs are tender, but also just that little bit spicy. The salmon is crisp, and just flakes apart. The whole thing is perfect.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way.
serves serves 2, active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes
Preheat the broiler to high and adjust rack to 6 inches below the element. Pulse bread in the bowl of a food processor until coarse crumbs are created, about 10 to 12 one-second pulses. Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, mix together the breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoon butter, both mustards, and thyme, pinching the mixture together so the butter is incorporated and the mixture sticks together. Season with salt and pepper.
Spread the bottom of each fillet of salmon with a thin layer of butter. Preheat a medium skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add salmon buttered-side down and cook without moving until a nice crust has formed, about 2 minutes. Pile the crumbs on the salmon, then transfer to the broiler. Broil until the crumbs are crunchy and browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
Special equipment: grill, wooden or metal skewers
serves serves 4, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes
Place onion slices flat on cutting board thread two wooden skewers through each onion slices to keep them flat as they grill. Place onions, zucchini, asparagus, and bread on two large rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle evenly with 1/4 cup olive oil and rub with hands to coat all the vegetables and bread evenly. Season everything with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly over half of the coal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover gill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. If using a gas grill, preheat half the grill to high.
When fire is ready, place bread over cool side of grill. Place onions in center of grill. Place zucchini cut-side-down over hot side. Cook, turning once until well charred on both sides and just starting to become tender, about 4 minutes total. Return to baking sheet. Check bread and flip and rotate to make sure it's drying evenly. Check onions and flip if necessary.
Add asparagus to hot side of grill and cook, turning occasionally until well charred and barely tender, about 3 minutes total. Return to baking sheet. Continue cooking onions until charred and tender throughout, about 10 minutes total. Return to baking sheet.
When bread is mostly dry, transfer to hot side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until well toasted and lightly charred, about 1 minute total. Return to baking sheet. Split lemon and place on grill cut-side-down. Grill until lightly charred and warm about 4 minutes.
Combine olives, capers, parsley, vinegar, and remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Cut zucchini, asparagus, bread, and onions into rough chunks and add to bowl. Season with salt and pepper and toss everything well to combine, adding extra olive oil to taste if desired.
Transfer salad to a bowl and serve with charred lemon halves.
[Photograph: Kerry Saretsky]
In the spring and summertime, sitting in a kitchen watching a hot stew bubble away is unthinkable. Criminal! But that doesn't mean that classics like coq au vin are any less delicious. Here, all the flavors of coq au vin, from the bacon to the onions and mushrooms and wine, condensed into a thick, earthy, completely unique barbecue sauce that is slathered onto wine-soaked, highly inebriated chicken. Grilled on a hot grill, it's an elegant, but easy and unique take on the classic stewy coq au vin, fit for a balmy night.
About the author: Kerry Saretsky is the creator of French Revolution Food, where she reinvents her family's classic French recipes in a fresh, chic, modern way.
Special equipment: grill pan or grill
serves serves 2 to 4, active time 20 minutes, total time 55 minutes, plus overnight marinate
Place the chicken and wine in a large baggie and refrigerate over night. Remove the chicken, and pat dry. Reserve the wine.
In a medium saucepan, cook pancetta over medium heat until just starting to crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally until shallots are soft, about 2 1/2 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds longer. Add the reserved wine and porcinis, and bring to a boil. Add the ketchup, mustard, sugar, vinegar, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook over low heat until the mixture is thick and coats a spoon, about 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, and purée mixture in the blender until smooth, about 30 seconds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Preheat a cast iron grill pan or a grill to medium heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, and toss in about 1/3 of the barbecue sauce. Lightly oil the hot grill and cook chicken turning once, until breasts register 155°F on an instant-read thermometer and legs register 165°F, about 30 minutes. If chicken skin begins to burn, reduce heat and continue cooking. Remove chicken from grill as it reaches temperature and tent with foil to keep warm. Allow chicken to rest for 5 minutes, then serve.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
serves serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add asparagus and cook until just tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Transfer to an ice bath to chill. Dry carefully and set aside. Keep water on stove for pasta.
Add bacon to a large saucepan or dutch oven and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until bacon is crisp and rendered, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus, increase heat to high, and cook, tossing and stirring frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add scallion whites and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add 1 cup asparagus cooking water to the pan.
Return the asparagus water to a boil and add the pasta. Cook according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water, and add to pot with bacon and asparagus. Do not return pot to heat. Add lemon juice and zest, jalapeño, butter, parsley, scallion greens, and plenty of black pepper. Stir until butter is melted. Add grated cheese and extra pasta water, stirring untili desired consistency is reached. Season to taste with salt and more pepper.
Serve immediately, garnishing with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.
[Photograph: Blake Royer]
Chimichurri with steak is certainly not a new idea, and in fact it's probably the most common way that this Argentinian sauce is used (and they know a thing or two about steak in that country). The garlicky, herbal flavors marry beautifully with the richness and fattiness of steak, not to mention its visually stunning contrast of green against red. Flipping through this month's Esquire magazine, I was immediately drawn in by this variation on chimmichurry from Ted Allen's new book In My Kitchen.
Why I Picked This Recipe: I've had chimichurri in a few different variations, but never with roasted fresh chilis, in this case jalapeños, which lend some body and thickness to the sauce. Once they're blackened and charred (then peeled and seeded) they also bring a smoky, grassy, sweet flavor. It ended up being one of the best chimichurri sauces I've tasted.
What Worked: Besides the roasted jalapeño addition, I also loved the subtle but effective use of red wine in the recipe (just 3 tablespoons, in fact). Obviously red wine and steak go well together, and I found that it added complexity and richness to the chimichurri that red wine vinegar along couldn't achieve. It highlighted that same richness in the steak.
What Didn't: In this case, nothing. No complaints about this recipe whatsoever.
Suggested Tweaks: Skirt steak is unfortunately getting expensive in some markets, and I actually ended up using a flat piece of hanger steak for half the price that grilled up beautifully. Any well-marbled cut will work (and a little bit of chewiness is actually preferable), since it will be sliced thinly against the grain anyway--though skirt steak is the best option.
Adapted from In My Kitchen.
About the author: Blake Royer is a food writer, photographer, and filmmaker based in Chicago; he has been writing for Serious Eats since 2007. You can follow him on Twitter @blakeroyer.
serves serves 4, active time 15 minutes, total time 25 minutes
Prepare a grill or turn on a broiler (or gas burner). Grill or char the jalapeños until blackened on all sides and quite soft, about 5 minutes total. Place them in a small bowl covered with a plate or towel and allow the skins to steam and loosen. Peel, stem, and seed the chilis.
In a small food processor or blender, combine the jalapeños, cilantro, parsley, garlic, lime juice, red wine, olive oil, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Pulse (or blend) until the mixture is a coarse puree. Taste and adjust for salt and blend again.
If a grill is not already prepared, heat a grill pan over high heat. Rub the steaks with olive oil and season very generously with salt and pepper. Grill until medium rare, 2 to 4 minutes per side depending on thickness (center of steaks should register 125°F on an instant read thermometer). Remove to a plate and allow to rest for at least 5 minutes.
Slice the steak across the grain with the knife at a 45 degree angle. Arrange on a serving plate and spoon some chimichurri over the steak. Serve with the extra sauce.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
Note: Note: I prefer using Carnaroli rice for its slight longer grains and firmer texture. Feel free to use any risotto-style rice like Arborio or Vailone Nano.
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
serves serves 4 to 6, active time 1 1/2 hours, total time 1 1/2 hours
Bring 2 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath. Working with one vegetable at a time, cook asparagus stalks, asparagus tips, snap peas, fava beans, and zucchini by adding to water and cooking until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes (taste as they cook to confirm doneness). Transfer to ice bath to stop cooking, then drain and transfer to a bowl. Carefully peel skins off of fava beans. Set all vegetables aside while you prepare the risotto.
Add mushrooms to a microwave-safe bowl and cover with 1 quart of vegetable blanching water. Microwave on high heat until just starting to simmer, about 5 minutes. Let steep for 10 minutes, then remove mushrooms and carefully dry with paper towels. Reserve mushroom liquid.
Combine rice and mushroom liquid in a large bowl. Agitate rice with fingers or a whisk to release starch. Strain through a fine mesh strainer set in a 2-quart liquid cup measure or other large bowl. Allow to drain five minutes, stirring rice occasionally. Reserve liquid.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add rice and cook, stirring and tossing frequently until all liquid is evaporated, oil is bubbling, and rice has begun to take on a golden blond color and nutty aroma, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and shallots and continue to cook, stirring frequently until aromatic, about 1 minute. Give reserved broth a good stir and pour all but one cup over the rice. Increase heat to high and heat until simmering. Stir rice once, cover, and reduce heat to lowest possible setting.
Cook rice for ten minutes undisturbed. Stir once, shake pan gently to redistribute rice, cover, and continue cooking until liquid is mostly absorbed and rice is tender with just a faint bite, about 10 minutes longer.
While rice is cooking, heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add dried mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until faintly nutty and crisp in bits, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate.
Remove lid from rice and add final cup of liquid. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and shaking rice constantly until thick and creamy. Fold in vegetables, mushrooms, parsley, and lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add water just until risotto is creamy and loose. Serve immediately.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
serves serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
Heat ancho chiles in a medium saucepan over high heat, turning occasionally, until toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a microwave-safe measuring cup and cover with 1 cup water. Microwave on high heat until just simmering, about 3 minutes. Let steep until chilis are softened. Drain chilis, reserving liquid.
Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions, and cook, stirring frequently until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and oregano and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add vinegar, chipotle chili and sauce, and reserved chili liquid. Scrape up browned bits from bottom of pan. Transfer contents to jar of a blender along with soaked chilis, sour cream, and lime juice. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
Heat remining tablespoon oil in a large skillet over high heat until smoking. Add asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and cook without moving until well charred on bottom, about 2 minutes. Toss and repeat, allowing asparagus to char before tossing again. Repeat until all asparagus is charred and softened, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate.
Form 12 double stacks of tortillas. Spread a tablespoon of sauce over each one. Divide asparagus evenly between tortillas. Top with pickled onions, cheese, and cilantro. Serve immediately with lime wedges and extra sauce.
[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]
Note: If ramps are unavailable, substitute with 1 clove garlic and 1 bunch sliced scallions.
About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
serves Makes about 2 1/2 quarts, serving 4 to 6, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
Cut the top inch off of each asparagus stalk. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have a large ice bath ready. Add asparagus tips and cook until bright green and tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to ice bath until chilled. Dry carefully and reserve. Add asparagus stalks to water and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to ice bath to chill. Transfer chilled stalks to jar of a blender.
Set aside 8 ramps (if using scallions, set aside 2 whole sliced scallions). Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add remaining ramps and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring and tossing frequently, until tender and lightly browned. Transfer to blender jar. Add broth and yogurt to blender. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, stopping to scrape down sides and adding water as necessary until rich, soupy consistency is reached.
With blender running, slowly drizzle in olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then strain through a fine mesh strainer if smoother texture is desired.
Transfer to a medium saucepan and heat, stirring frequently. When ready to serve, stir in lemon juice. Melt remaining butter in a large skillet. Sautée ramps and asparagus tips until lightly browned then transfer to a plate. Ladle soup into individual bowl. Garnish with sauteed ramps, asparagus, chopped mint, and an extra drizzle of olive oil (be generous). Serve immediately.
There's something so... cowboy about cooking spaghetti over an open flame. Fortunately, it's tasty, too. [Photograph: Jennifer Olvera]
Note: This recipe calls for a disposable grill pan—the kind of perforated pan designed to fit over your grill to allow you to cook small items without them falling through the grates. If you can't find one, you can use a disposable aluminum pan with holes poked into it using a metal skewer.
About the author: Jennifer Olvera is a veteran food and travel writer and author of "Food Lovers' Guide to Chicago." Follow her on Twitter @olverajennifer.
Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!
Special equipment: Large, oven-safe pot, diisposable grill grate
serves serves 6, active time 45 minutes, total time 2 ½ hours
Heat a large, non-stick, oven-safe stockpot over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the bacon and render, stirring occasionally, until crisped and golden-brown (about 7 minutes). Reduce heat to medium and add carrot, celery, onion, jalapeno and garlic. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until softened (about 10 minutes).
Meanwhile, preheat grill to medium-high.
Returning to the sauce, add the thyme sprigs, wine, vinegar and brown sugar to the pot. Stir and bring to a boil before adding the tomato paste, chipotle and tomatoes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Transfer to grill and simmer, uncovered, for an hour, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, prepare the meatballs by combining all ingredients by hand in a large bowl. Do not over-mix. Form into 1 ½” balls. Reduce grill temperature to medium after an hour’s time. Add meatballs to sauce and simmer for 30 minutes, gently stirring from time to time.
As the sauce nears the finish line, bring water to boil in a medium saucepan. Remove pasta sauce from the grill and discard thyme. Set sauce aside and cover to keep warm. Add pasta to boiling water and cook for half the recommended time on the package (about 3 to 4 minutes) until just less than al dente. Drain and toss with remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Pour pasta onto grill pan and finish cooking on the grill, tossing until it has taken on smokiness and is very lightly charred (about 4 minutes).
Serve family-style, topping grilled spaghetti with meatballs and sauce and passing the Romano.