[Photograph: Studio Schulz]
While most beer batters assume that any fizzy, flavorless swill will do, these onion rings were created to highlight the big-flavored, boozy brew that Stone Brewing Co. is known for.
Reprinted with permission from The Craft of Stone Brewing Co. by Greg Koch and Steve Wagner with Randy Clemens. Copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press. Available wherever books are sold. All rights reserved.
serves 6 to 8 , active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
Arrogant Bastard Ale Batter: Pour the Arrogant Bastard Ale into a high-sided narrow container. Stir in the Cajun spice blend, salt, chipotle, smoked paprika, and garlic. Sift the flour and baking powder together, then add them to the beer mixture slowly, whisking well until they’re evenly and thoroughly incorporated. You may need a bit more or less flour to reach the ideal consistency for a tempura-style batter. It should be just thick enough to coat whatever you’re frying.
Cut off the ends of each onion, cut in half crosswise (around the equator), and remove the papery skin and thin outer membrane. Soak in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes.
Drain the onions, separate the concentric rings, and spread them on a kitchen towel to dry.
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Prepare a deep fryer, filling it with oil to the manufacturer’s suggested fill level. Alternately, use a wide cast-iron or other heavy-duty pan that’s at least 4 inches deep, pouring in oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches, and no more than halfway up the side of the pan. Heat the oil to 360°F.
Dunk the onion rings in the batter and fry in batches until crispy and deep reddish brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Be careful not to overcrowd the pan, as this will lower the temperature of the oil significantly and result in soggy onion rings. Transfer cooked onion rings to a wire rack set over a baking sheet (or directly on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet). Season with a sprinkling of salt and keep them in the oven until the entire batch has been fried.
Serve hot, with a side of BBQ sauce for dipping. (No ketchup!)
[Photograph: Studio Schulz]
If you think that it doesn't get any better than bacony brussels sprouts, you haven't tried beery, bacony brussels sprouts. Glazing these little guys with a bottle of Stone Pale Ale adds crisp citrus notes that bring out the horseradishy sharpness of the sprouts.
Reprinted with permission from The Craft of Stone Brewing Co. by Greg Koch and Steve Wagner with Randy Clemens. Copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press. Available wherever books are sold. All rights reserved.
serves 2 as a main course, or 4 as a side dish, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes
Set up a steamer with 1 to 2 inches of salted water and bring the water to a rolling boil. Put the brussels sprouts in the steamer, cover, and cook until slightly tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and immediately transfer the brussels sprouts to a large bowl of ice water to halt the cooking and preserve their bright green color. Let them cool in the ice water for about 1 minute, then drain. Lay them on a clean dish towel and pat dry. Cut them in half vertically, right through the core.
In a large wok or cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over high heat until it begins to shimmer. Turn the heat down to medium. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Turn the heat up to high, add the brussels sprouts, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes.
Add the beer and continue to cook over high heat until the liquid is mostly evaporated. Deglaze the pan by adding the vegetable stock, stirring and scraping up any browned bits that may be affixed to the pan.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with the tomato and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately.
[Photograph: Studio Schulz]
A few glugs of hop-heavy Stone Ruination IPA cut right through the richness of this cheesy, garlicky soup.
Reprinted with permission from The Craft of Stone Brewing Co. by Greg Koch and Steve Wagner with Randy Clemens. Copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press. Available wherever books are sold. All rights reserved.
serves 8, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
For the Roasted Garlic: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the top 1/4 inch off of three heads exposing the individual cloves of garlic. Place it cut side up on a large sheet of aluminum foil. Drizzle the olive oil over the garlic and season with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Gather the foil up around the garlic, folding and twisting the top to seal.
Roast for 1 hour, then let the garlic cool completely. Use a fork to pull the roasted cloves out of their papery skin. Alternatively, you can squeeze the cloves out from the bottom using your hands.
Melt 3/4 cup of the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour, whisking briskly to avoid lumps. Cook, stirring frequently, until the flour takes on a light blond color, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Melt the remaining 1/4 cup butter in a large soup pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and minced garlic and cook just until the garlic is aromatic, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add the vegetable stock, IPA, and milk. When the liquid begins to simmer, stir in the garlic, paprika, and cumin. Using a handheld immersion blender or in a regular blender, puree until smooth. Whisk in the flour mixture. Add the cheese a handful at a time, whisking after each addition, until melted and smooth.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately, garnishing each serving with some of the chives.
The sun is shining and it's finally time to gather up little green baskets overflowing with bright red strawberries in the market. Spring could not have come soon enough. My palate was bored stiff with root vegetables and the waning citrus season, but we've finally turned a corner and I'm happily eating strawberries by the cupful.
As exciting as the arrival of beautiful produce is, at some point we exhaust our inclination to eat them straight from the carton and must find new and interesting outlets for these juicy heart-shaped fruits. When you've reached that point, this Strawberry Campari Tart should make its way to your kitchen.
Strawberries still play the star, but the addition of Campari makes these berries feel all dolled up. A lush ruby red Italian bitter, Campari is known for its bold herbal bitterness with notes of rhubarb, berry, and a floral finish. Campari's complex flavors are a sensational balance for simply sweet strawberries.
A mixture of toasted oats, dark buckwheat flour, and crunchy poppy seeds form a sweet and nutty dough. The crumbly crust is filled with a soft mascarpone cream accented by a touch of Campari for a barely-blushing hue. Crowned generously with sweet and boozy fresh berries, this tart roused my taste buds from their winter slumber.
Special equipment: 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom
serves 12, active time 20 minutes, total time 1 hour 30 minutes
Preheat oven to 350°F. Toast oats on a baking sheet for 5 minutes or until they smell toasty and are lightly golden. Leave oven on. Add oats to the bowl of a food processor with both flours, sugar, poppy seeds, and salt. Pulse until oats are mostly chopped. Sprinkle cubed butter over flour and pulse until dough just comes together. Press into an ungreased 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Use fingers or the bottom of a measuring cup to make sure dough is fully pressed into sides and edges. Bake crust for 25-30 minutes or until it looks dry and firm. Set aside to cool.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat mascarpone cheese with sugar, Campari, and vanilla for 2 minutes, or until mixture is light and fluffy and the sugar is fully dissolved. Place mascarpone mixture in a bowl and wipe out mixer. Attach whisk and whip heavy cream on high for 2 minutes, or until stiff peaks form. Gently fold 1/3 of the whipped cream into mascarpone to combine. Fold in remaining whipped cream, 1/3 at a time, and pour into cooled tart shell.
Toss strawberries with sugar and Campari in a small bowl. Let sit for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Pile onto tart or refrigerate separately until ready to serve.
I recently came across a cake in Nick Malgieri's Perfect Light Desserts cookbook that used a whopping 2/3 cup of rum instead of the typical 2 to 3 tablespoons you often find in baked goods. The delicate blue Ball jar filled with homemade walnut liqueur sitting patiently in my refrigerator jumped for joy. A cake just waiting for the notes of walnuts, citrus, vanilla and warm spices to shine through! It made that 'ol rum sound a little boring.
Nocino is a sweet, spicy walnut liqueur made from green walnuts, grain alcohol or vodka, sugar, lemon peel, cinnamon and clove. Some versions swap orange for lemon, others add a vanilla pod,mace, juniper, or star anise. The resulting liqueur is dark and syrupy, and sipping it straight feels like pure indulgence.
Nocino is an excellent way to transform green, undeveloped walnuts into a cherished gifts for all your favorite people. It is often made in June when green walnuts are readily available on backyard trees—a Nocino-making fest is a great excuse to have a summer party.
If you don't have any homemade Nocino sitting around, you can grab a bottle of walnut liqueur from your local liquor store. Whether you sip it as a simple digestif, mix it into cocktails, drizzle it over ice cream, or fold it into batters, it's a worthy addition to your liquor cabinet.
The nutty, spicy perfume of this cake permeates the air as it bakes. It comes out moist and dense and needs the simplest adornment of Nocino spiked whipped cream to really sing. Serve with a chilled shot of Nocino or a hot pot of coffee.
Adapted from Nick Malgieri's Perfect Light Desserts
Special equipment: Bundt Pan
serves 16, active time 20 minutes, total time 1 hour 20 minutes
Adjust oven rack to lower middle position and preheat to 350°F. Grease bundt pan and lightly coat with a sprinkling of granulated sugar.
Whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl until fully incorporated. In a separate large bowl, whisk the egg and buttermilk to combine. Add the brown sugar, applesauce, corn syrup, Nocino, and vanilla one ingredient at a time, whisking between each addition until smooth. Pour dry mixture over egg mixture and stir gently with a wooden spoon until fully combined.
Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the middle of the tube comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Run a table knife around the edges of the bundt pan to loosen, invert and unmold onto a wire rack to cool completely.
With an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream at medium-high speed until soft peaks form. With the machine running, lowly add the sugar and Nocino and whip until stiff peaks form. Serve with Chocolate Nocino Cake.
Spring celebrations call for bright, fresh produce prepared with a touch of flair. Whether it's for Easter brunch, baby showers, a sunny party on the patio, or a gathering to admire April's blossoming flowers, this is my kind of celebratory dish: tender and sweet carrots tossed in glaze of booze, brown sugar, and butter.
Look for young, small spring carrots with their tops still on—they're sweet enough that you can forgo peeling and leave the whole carrot intact for roasting. Trim the tops, leaving about an inch of greens remaining. The carrots will be lovely piled on a platter for serving guests or plated alongside slices of ham or a warm farro salad.
I used Bulleit Bourbon for this recipe, but feel free to use your favorite whiskey. I do recommend selecting a whiskey you don't mind drinking—the spirit's flavor profile is a distinct component of the finished dish.
serves 4, active time 10 minutes, total time 40 minutes
Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss carrots in olive oil, smoked paprika, and a generous sprinkle of salt and black pepper. Roast for 30 minutes or until carrots are tender when pierced with a fork.
While carrots are roasting, place bourbon in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until bourbon is reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add sugar, stirring to dissolve. Cook 2-3 more minutes, allowing sauce to thicken. Lower heat and stir in butter and orange juice until well combined. Season to taste with a pinch of salt. Keep sauce warm until carrots are done. Toss carrots in warm glaze and serve immediately.
This blackberry milkshake begins with a Port Chocolate Syrup. Port is a fortified wine from Portugal's Douro Valley. It comes in many styles; I've used ruby port in this recipe for its smooth, fruity sweetness and its vibrant ruby hue. The combination of reduced port and blackberries tastes like a big, full-bodied, jammy red wine. The chocolate plays a supporting role, offering extra depth and richness.
While I love this milkshake with the texture of the blackberry seeds included, I know not everyone is hip to that crunch. If you're a non-seedy person, another option is to continue cooking the blackberries and sugar until they are very soft and mushy, then press the juice through a fine mesh strainer, discarding all unwanted seeds.
Note: The milkshake only requires a few tablespoons of syrup, but the recipe yields one cup. Use the extra to drizzle over scoops of coffee ice cream or chocolate cake, or even swirl it into a batch of brownies. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator and gently reheat in a saucepan or microwave to use.
About the Author: Caroline Ford is a food stylist, food writer, and recipe developer in Portland, Oregon. In this column she'll be sharing recipes that feature a wide variety of spirits and liquors (plus beer and wine.)
Special equipment: Blender
serves 4 servings, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes
For the Port Chocolate Syrup: Combine port and orange zest in a small saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1/2 cup, 5 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, slowly add butter and chocolate, stirring frequently until completely melted. Remove from heat and add vanilla extract. Set aside for milkshake.
To make milkshake, place blackberries and sugar in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until sugar is dissolved and fruit begins to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add berries to blender along with ice cream, milk, and 3 tablespoons of the Port Chocolate Syrup. Blend on high speed until fully combined, scraping down the sides as needed. Immediately pour into glasses and serve.
I've noshed on any number of beer-battered onion rings, but they usually don't really truly taste like beer. Any bland beer can help to keep them light and crunchy, but why not up the ante and use a beer with more flavor? The stout-based batter on these onion rings makes them much more flavorful. Throw in a little spice, some tangy mustard, a touch of honey for sweetness, and the package is complete.
These onion rings couldn't be easier to prepare. That is, as long as you're up for hanging out with a pot of hot oil for an hour or so while you daydream about biting into a crisp, hot onion ring.
Or use my tactic and selflessly dispose of any "too small" or "slightly misshapen" results—those just aren't fit for serving to others anyway.
Special equipment: Large heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven for frying, frying thermometer
serves 6-8, 30 to 40 rings total, active time 1 hour, total time 1 hour 30 minutes
Fill pot with oil 1 1/2 inches deep. Heat oil over medium-high to 375°F. Prepare a baking sheet lined with paper towels and a wire rack for finished onion rings to drain. While oil is heating, trim ends from onions, peel, and cut crosswise into 1/2 inch thick rings. Gently separate rings, discarding innermost rings and broken pieces.
In a large bowl, whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and pimenton. In a small bowl, whisk together beer, mustard, and honey. Add wet ingredients to dry, stirring well to combine. Dip onion rings into batter a few at time, turning to coat thoroughly. Shake off excess batter and carefully lower into hot oil. Cook until dark golden brown on each side, 2-4 minutes, turning halfway through. Remove with a wire strainer to prepared wire rack, sprinkle lightly with salt while hot.
Continue to fry onion rings, pausing in between batches to allow oil to return to 375°F. Serve immediately. Allow oil to cool completely before straining and storing.
Most of the time, I'm not that wild for chocolate mousse. The texture and flavor mostly leaves me wanting for more pizazz. "Humdrum" springs to mind. But this Guinness Chocolate Mousse with Guinness Oatmeal Chocolate Chunk Cookies has just the kind of oomph all mousse needs to make me really want to gobble it up.
The mousse is light and fluffy, but with amazing depth thanks to the malt and coffee notes in the beer teamed up with rich dark chocolate. And then the chewy, crisp-edged cookies...I had to bag them up to stop eating them. Beware! Especially if you make bite-size versions; they're just so easy to pop in your mouth.
But if I may offer a word of advice—try letting part of a cookie hang out in the mousse for a few minutes. The cookie turns super-soft and delicious as it soaks up some mousse. This dessert is fun enough to serve at a dinner party, but uncomplicated and casual enough to eat while hanging out on the couch in your PJs.
Special equipment: Stand mixer with whisk attachment
serves 8-10 servings, plus lots of extra cookies!, active time 1 hour 30 minutes , total time 3 hours 30 minutes
Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler over a low simmer, stirring frequently until melted. Remove from heat and stir in Guinness, vanilla, and salt. Whisk in egg yolks one at a time, until thoroughly combined. Cool 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, in an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, whip egg whites on high speed into soft peaks. With mixer running, slowly add sugar, until thick and shiny. Slowly fold 1/3 of egg whites into chocolate mixture, then fold in remainder of egg whites until just incorporated, being careful not to overmix or mousse will lose volume.
In an electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whip cream on high speed into stiff peaks. Slowly fold into chocolate mixture until completely incorporated. Put into serving bowls; cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours for flavors to meld.
For the cookies, cook Guinness in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until reduced to 1/2 cup. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Place butter and both sugars in an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. On medium-high speed, cream until light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add eggs, reduced Guinness, and vanilla, beat until combined, scraping down the bowl as needed. Add oats, both flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until just combined, 15-30 seconds. Stir in chocolate chunks.
Scoop 1/2 tablespoon portions of cookie dough onto parchment lined baking sheet, leaving a 1 inch space between each. Bake 6-9 minutes, cookies should look slightly underdone when you remove them from the oven. Let cool on cookie sheet 5 minutes, transfer to wire rack to cool completely. Keep raw cookie dough in refrigerator while baking.
Oh, hand pies. I am a fanatic for any kind of pastry dough, and these pork, Guinness, sweet potato, and dried cherry hand pies are a treat worth indulging in.
I moved this week, and since I live in Oregon, that meant shuffling all of my worldly possessions from one location to another in cold, pouring ran...all day long. I sure picked a winner of a month to move. Mid-way through the scurrying, I came inside and pulled one of these hand pies from the refrigerator. I didn't even warm it up. Just inhaled the whole thing straight from the plastic wrap, and it was perfect. A bit savory, a bit sweet, and hearty enough to sustain me through the rest of the heavy lifting.
Of course, hand pies are best straight from the oven when the crust is flaky and beautifully browned. You can store the leftovers tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for several days, but I recommend reheating in the oven or toaster oven so the crust doesn't get soggy in the microwave.
serves 8, active time 1 hour , total time 2 hours 30 minutes
Place flour and salt in food processor. Pulse to combine. Add cold butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, with pea-size pieces remaining. Slowly add cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until mixture is a bit crumbly, but holds together when squeezed. Shape dough into a 1-inch thick disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 1 hour or until firm.
Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook until soft, 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and cook another 1 minute. Add ground pork and cook until no longer pink, 3-5 minutes. Season with a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper while meat cooks. Add potato, Guinness, dried cherries, ginger, cinnamon, and cayenne. Cover and cook 15 minutes or until potatoes are fork tender. Gently mash mixture together with a fork. Taste and adjust with salt and pepper. Keep warm or refrigerate mixture until ready to fill dough.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Divide dough in half. On a floured surface, roll out one half to 1/8 inch thickness. With a knife or biscuit cutter, cut out 8 5-inch circles (rerolling dough if necessary) and transfer, onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, cutting out eight (slightly larger) 5 1/4-inch rounds. Chill rounds on sheet until ready to use.
Place a heaping 1/3 cup filling on each smaller round of dough, leaving a 1/2 inch border. Brush edges with egg and press larger round over top, using fingers to firmly seal. With the tines of a fork, crimp edges. Cut 3 small vents in the top of each pie. Brush tops with egg mixture and bake until golden brown and bubbling, 20-25 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through. Let cool slightly on wire racks. Serve warm.
This take on Tiramisu strays pretty far from the traditional. It calls for Guinness and Irish Cream instead of coffee and Marsala, but the requisite creamy, soft layers will surely please anyone crazy for this Italian dessert.
This version also leaves out the egg-based zabaglione, which means it's seriously easy to put together. But take note, this dessert is best if it hangs out in the fridge overnight so it can properly set up and really go to town soaking those ladyfingers.
Be warned: it's boozy! You're not going to stumble away from the table by any means, but a spoonful is guaranteed to grab your attention. The flavor is surprisingly compelling...to be honest, I had to wrench my hand away from the spoon. Like coffee would, the Guinness adds a hint of bitterness to balance the sweetness, and its malty, chocolatey, coffee notes are the perfect pair with sweet Irish Cream and smooth mascarpone.
The amounts in this recipe allow a lot of flexibility for your serving vessel. If you use a deep bowl or trifle dish you can create more layers (fun!), though you can also use individual glass cups or ramekins. A 9 x 9 dish, pictured, only allows 2 layers and you'll likely have some ingredients left over. Don't waste them! Find some cups, even a coffee mug will do, and fill them up for your own special treat even after the big dish is scraped clean.
Special equipment: 9 x 9 dish, large trifle bowl, or individual dessert cups
serves 12, active time 45 minutes, total time 12 hours
Combine the mascarpone and sugar in a medium bowl, stir vigorously to dissolve sugar. Place whipping cream and 2 tablespoons Irish Cream in a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whip on high until stiff peaks form, 2-3 minutes. Gently fold whipped cream into mascarpone.
Pour Guinness into a shallow bowl. One at a time, dip ladyfingers into Guinness on each side. Don't soak them: counting to one on each side will provide all the stout flavor and moisture you'll need. Place in a tight single layer in dish, breaking them into pieces as necessary. Drizzle 1/4 cup Irish Cream over entire layer. Pour about 1-2 cups of the mascarpone mixture over ladyfingers until covered, spreading smooth with a spatula. Grate a layer of chocolate shavings over the top with a microplane or a vegetable peeler.
Repeat process with another layer. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours or overnight before serving.
[Photograph: Caroline Ford]
Note: In anticipation of St. Patrick's Day, we've deemed this week Guinness Week, and we'll be offering up five luscious stout-based recipes, thanks to Spirited Cooking columnist Caroline Ford. Take it away, Caroline!—The Mgmt.
This Guinness stew begs you to tuck in for a warm, soul-satisfying meal. A little carrot, a little potato, loads of sweet cipollini onion, and tender chunks of beef: it's a simple dish but such a good one. The only accompaniment you'll need is a crusty loaf of bread and big glass of bold red wine...or a pint of Guinness.
Don't skip the lemon and parsley garnish; it pulls the whole dish together. If you can't find cipollini onions, you can substitute pearl onions. If both elude you, quartered yellow onions will do the trick.
For the meat, skip the extra lean stew meat for chuck roast with a bit more fat. Your butcher will be happy to cut two pounds into pieces for you, and the flavor will be better. The stew can easily be made the day ahead and reheated to serve, in fact, the flavor will only improve.
serves 8, active time 45 minutes, total time 3 hours
Toss beef in flour, cayenne, and a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper to coat. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add beef in a single layer, working in batches if necessary. Cook on each side until browned, 4-5 minutes. In the last minute, add garlic, stirring frequently. Transfer browned meat and garlic to a bowl. Deglaze pan with 1 tablespoon Guinness, scraping up dark bits from the bottom.
Heat another half tablespoon olive oil. Add carrots and cook until beginning to brown, 3-5 minutes, add potatoes and cook another 2 minutes. Transfer vegetable mixture to a separate bowl. Deglaze with another tablespoon of Guinness.
Heat remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil, add cipollini onions and cook until edges brown, 3-4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook an additional 1 minute. Deglaze with remaining Guinness. Return beef to the pot and add beef stock, cumin seed, Worcestershire, and bay leaf. Simmer covered for 1 hour.
Add carrot and vegetable mixture, return lid, and simmer an additional 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until carrots are fork tender.
Adjust to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with lemon zest and chopped parsley.
[Photo: Caroline Ford]
Verjus is by no means a new find, but thanks to a few financially savvy winemakers in the Pacific Northwest, it is gaining a resurgence in popularity. Yes, verjus is actually nonalcoholic, yet it offers many of the same culinary benefits as wine.
Like wine, this sweet-tart liquid achieves added depth in deglazing, marinades, sauces, and braises or stews. But verjus also has the flexibility to behave like citrus juice or vinegar in recipes for vinaigrettes, condiments, drinks, desserts, and as a poaching liquid for fish and meat.
This fresh, vibrant juice (it literally means "green juice") is made from the pressing of unripe wine grapes that must be pruned from the vines so the rest of the grapes can ripen properly. Pressing verjus is an excellent way for wineries to earn profit on grapes that would usually end up in compost. It can also save winemakers from a total loss when entire vines never fully ripen due to weather or other environmental conditions.
For this verjus vinaigrette, the liquid is reduced for a more intense flavor. While I chose pink peppercorn and coriander to complement the fennel, celery, and citrus in this particular salad, the spices can easily be adjusted to suit any variety of herbs, lettuces, fruits, and vegetables. I prefer varying levels of tang and sweet among the grapefruit, orange, and blood orange, but feel free to select the citrus for this salad according to your own tastebuds.
Tip: Using a strong flavored olive oil overwhelms the vibrancy of the verjus reduction. It is better to use a more mild, second pressing olive oil in this vinaigrette.
About the Author: Caroline Ford is a food stylist, food writer, and recipe developer in Portland, Oregon. In this column she'll be sharing recipes that feature a wide variety of spirits and liquors (plus beer and wine.)
Special equipment: Mandoline
serves 4, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes
Place verjus, pink peppercorns, coriander, and garlic in small, heavy bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Simmer until reduced to 2 to 3 tablespoons. Strain liquid and discard solids. Slowly whisk oil into reduced verjus to create an emulsified vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Cut ends off of grapefruit and oranges. Remove peels and white pith with a knife. Cut fruits into thin rounds, about 1/8" thick.
Using a mandoline, cut very thin slices of fennel and celery. Toss with half of vinaigrette until vegetables are well coated. Taste and add more salt accordingly. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes, fennel and celery will soften slightly.
Divide dressed fennel and celery among plates. Top evenly with citrus and crab meat. Drizzle more vinaigrette over the top of each salad. Garnish with fennel fronds and celery leaves.
[Photo: Caroline Ford]
If you were so lucky this past holiday season, someone gave you a lovely glass bottle with a charming bow tied around its neck, filled with the vibrant hue of homemade orangecello, or Arancello, as the Italians would say. Or perhaps you were that crafty, DIY gift-giver, winning the adoration of your friends and family for doling out homemade booze. Either way, you likely made a cocktail or two with the sweet liqueur and are now pondering other destinations for that bottle in your fridge. I have a solution. Actually, if you are not one of the lucky people with orangecello already at your fingertips, I suggest scurrying down to the liquor store just so you can bake this treat.
These Orangecello Chocolate Cheesecake Squares are a decadent incarnation of those shiny, foil-wrapped chocolate orange balls. The liqueur offers just enough punch of orange to keep your taste buds on alert, without overwhelming the tangy cream cheese.
This isn't a dense cheesecake bomb; whole-milk ricotta keeps this dessert light and fluffy. Two layers of chocolate serve as bookends to the creamy filling: there's a glaze of rich, melt-in-your-mouth orange-infused dark chocolate to start and crumbly chocolate crust to finish.
About the Author: Caroline Ford is a food stylist, food writer, and recipe developer in Portland, Oregon. In this column she'll be sharing recipes that feature a wide variety of spirits and liquors (plus beer and wine.)
Special equipment: 8" x 8" baking dish
serves 12 to 16, active time 30 minutes, total time 12 hours (chilling)
Heat oven to 350°. Line 8”x8” pan with foil and coat with cooking spray or butter. Combine chocolate crumbs, orange zest, and butter in a small bowl until mixture comes together easily when pressed in your palm. Press into the bottom of prepared pan. Bake crust for 15 minutes. Let cool.
Beat ricotta in electric mixer until smooth. Add cream cheese and sugar; beat until fluffy. Add orangecello and zest; add eggs one at a time, beating well between each addition. Scrape down bowl as needed. Pour filling into crust and place pan in larger dish or roasting pan for a water bath. Pour hot water in the larger pan halfway up the side of the cheesecake pan. Bake for 1 hour or until cheesecake jiggles only slightly when shaken.
Cool on wire cooling rack for 1 hour. Refrigerate until cheesecake is cold, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Heat all glaze ingredients in double boiler over gently simmering water. Stir until melted and combined. Pour over chilled cheesecake, tilting pan to coat. Refrigerate uncovered for 30 minutes. Cut cheesecake into squares, cleaning knife between each slice for neat edges.