Serious Eats: Recipes - The Burger Lab

Homemade Vegan Burgers That Don't Suck

2012-03-26T13:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: For best texture, the veggie burgers must be cooked within thirty minutes of adding bread crumbs or they will become mushy. To prepare in advance, combine all ingredients except for crumbs and mix in the crumbs just before forming the patties and serving.

Special equipment: food processor

Ingredients

serves makes about 2 pounds veggie burger mix, active time 1 hour, total time 1 1/2 hours

1 1/2 pounds button mushrooms, trimmed
1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 thyme sprigs
1 whole small eggplant (about 1/2 pound)
2 large leeks, chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 large celery rib, chopped fine (about 1/2 cup)
1 medium clove garlic, grated on a microplane grater (about 1 teaspoon)
3/4 cup dry pearl barley
1 (14-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained and patted dry on paper towels
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon marmite, vegemite, or Maggi seasoning
1 cup toasted cashews, pinenuts, or a mix
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 1/2-cups panko-style bread crumbs (see note above)

Procedures

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, toss mushrooms with 1 tablespoon oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Coat eggplant with another tablespoon olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Wrap eggplant with heavy duty aluminum foil. Transfer mushrooms and eggplant to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Scatter thyme over mushrooms. Bake, turning mushrooms and wrapped eggplant occasionally until mushrooms are dark brown and eggplant is completely tender (test with a cake tester or thin skewer), about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, unwrap eggplant, and set aside to cool.
While mushrooms and eggplant roast, heat remaining two tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add leeks and celery and cook, stirring and tossing occasionally, until completely softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl and set aside to cool.
Place barley in a pot and cover with water by 2 inches. Stir once then place over high heat. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until barley is completely tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and transfer cooked barley to a clean kitchen towel or a triple layer of heavy-duty paper towels. Roll towels tightly and press to remove excess moisture. Transfer barley to a large bowl.
Add half of garbanzo beans to the bowl of a food processor along with flour, baking powder, soy sauce, Marmite and half of eggplant (reserve remaining eggplant for another use). Process until a smooth paste forms, scraping down sides as necessary. Transfer mixture to bowl with barley. Pulse remaining chickpeas in food processor and pulse until beans are chopped to about the size of a lentil (5 to 6 short bursts), scraping down sides as necessary. Transfer to bowl with barley mixture. Chop cashews or pinenuts (if using) in the food processor the same way and add to barley mix.
When mushrooms are cool, add to bowl of food processor and pulse until finely chopped but still coarse in texture, about 8 to 10 short pulses. Add to barley mix. When leeks and celery are cool, transfer to food processor. Chop with 8 to 10 short pulses and add to barley mix.
Using bare hands or a spatula, stir together mixture until completely homogenous. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mixture can be refrigerated and stored for up to 5 days at this point or frozen in an airtight freezer bag for up to 3 months.
When Ready To Serve: Add breadcrumbs to mixture and work them in with your hands. Make a sample patty. It should have the texture of ground beef and hold together easily. If not, add water a tablespoon at a time until it comes together. Divide mixture into eight patties about 4-inches across and 1/2 an inch thick. Patties must be cooked within 30 minutes of adding breadcrumbs (see note above).
To Finish on a Griddle or in a Skillet: Heat three tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add four patties and cook without moving until first side is well-browned, about 3 minutes. I like to press a disk of sliced onion into the top side while it cooks. Flip burgers and top with cheese (if desired) and cook until second side is browned and cheese is melted, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a toasted bun and serve with condiments as desired.
To Finish on the Grill: Preheat a gas or charcoal grill with a medium-high fire. Rub the grill grates with an oil-soaked paper towel and add the burgers. Cook without moving until well-browned, about four minutes. Flip burgers, top with cheese if desired, and cook on second side until well browned, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to toasted bun and serve.

Melty American-style Cheddar Cheese Slices For Burgers and Grilled Cheese

2011-09-26T13:25:00Z

Note: This recipe will work with any medium-dry cheese such as Gruyère, Comté, Swiss, or Jack. Do not use pre-grated cheese as it is coated in starch that will affect its smoothness when melting.

Special equipment: food processor, blender, or hand blender

Ingredients

serves makes about 1 pound American-style Cheese, active time 10 minutes, total time 10 minutes, plus at least 10 minutes to chill

0.25 ounces (about 1 tablespoon) powdered gelatin
1 tablespoon water
4 ounces (about 1/2 cup) evaporated milk
12 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, fresh grated (see note)

Procedures

Line two flat rimmed baking sheets or large square or rectangular platters with a layer of plastic cling wrap and set aside. In a small bowl or cup, sprinkle the gelatin over the water and allow it to hydrate, about 1 minute. Meanwhile, heat the evaporated milk in a small saucepan over medium high heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula to prevent burning on the bottom of the pan. When milk comes to a simmer, add hydrated gelatin and stir until melted. Remove pan from heat.
Add cheese all at once and stir with a whisk to combine. Return pan to low heat and continue to whisk until mixture is homogenous and registers between 160 and 170°F on an instant read thermometer. Beat with the blade of an immersion blender directly in the pot until glossy and smoother. Alternatively, transfer to the bowl of a blender or food processor and blend, starting at the lowest speed and slowly increasing to the highest. Blend for 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. If necessary, blend in two separate batches, pouring first half onto lined sheet tray before proceeding to second half (see step 3).
Pour mixture out of the blender and onto the prepared baking sheets. You should end up with a layer a few millimeters thick on each tray. Use a rubber spatula to distribute the cheese in an even layer. Transfer to a flat place in the refrigerator and allow to cool until firm to the touch, at least ten minutes (you may need longer depending on how cold your fridge it, how thick your plates or trays are, and how well your fridge circulates air).
When cheese has cooled, carefully lift the plastic wrap and transfer the whole thing to a cutting board. Cut the cheese into square slices, cutting all the way through the plastic. Carefully left each slice with the plastic still attached and stack, leaving the plastic in between each layer. Repeat with the other sheet tray. Store cheese slices in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.

The In-N-Out/Telway/White Manna Ultimate Animal-Style Slider Mashup

2011-07-25T21:00:00Z

Note: For best result, use freshly ground beef with at least 20 percent fat. Try this recipe for our Blue Label Burger Blend. Sliders can be cooked in a 12-inch cast iron or stainless steel skillet in batches of six if you don't have an electric griddle.

Special equipment: Electric griddle, clean kitchen towel

Ingredients

serves Makes twelve 2-ounce sliders, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes

6 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoon ketchup
4 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped kosher dill pickles, with 1 teaspoon pickle juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 3 tablespoons yellow mustard
24-ounces freshly ground beef (see note), divided into twelve 2-ounce pucks
1 large onion, sliced paper thin on a mandoline (about 1 1/2 cups total)
6 slices American cheese, cut in half
12 Slider Rolls (preferably Martin's brand Sliced Sandwich Rolls)

Procedures

Combine mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, sugar, white vinegar, pickles, and pickle juice in a food processor. Process until almost smooth. Season to taste with plenty of black pepper and a little salt (depending on how salty your pickles were, you may not need any extra salt). Set spread aside.
Heat an electric griddle to 400°F. Squirt twelve dots of mustard of about 3/4-teaspoons each in an evenly spaced grid over the surface of the griddle, leaving about 3-inches between each dot. Place one ball of meat on top of each dollop. Season generously with salt and pepper, then smash down with a stiff spatula into patties approximately 1/4-inch thick and 3-inches wide. Spread onions evenly over surface of burger patties and press down with spatula. Allow to cook for 1 minute on first side.
Flip patties so that onions are underneath (patties will not necessarily be colored—this is ok; the flavor in sliders comes from steam, not from browning). Top each patty with a half slice of American cheese. Place top buns cut-side-down on top of patties and top with bottom buns, also cut-side-down. Drape a towel over the whole griddle to trap steam.
Cook, pressing gently down on towel occasionally until buns are heated completely through and burger patties are cooked, about 2 minutes. Remove towel and transfer bottom buns to a serving platter. Divide spread evenly between bottom buns. Top each bottom bun with a burger patty and top bun, making sure to get all of the onions off of the griddle. Serve immediately.

Seared Burgers with Easy-Melting Comté Cheese Slices

2011-07-08T14:25:00Z

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: This recipe will work with any aged, semi-hard cheese like Comté, Cheddar, or Tomme.

Ingredients

serves makes 2 burgers, active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes

2 ounces coarsely grated aged Comté cheese (see note)
1 teaspoon instant flour (like Wondra)
2 teaspoons heavy cream or milk
1/4 teaspoon vegetable oil
8 ounces of freshly ground beef, formed into two 4-ounce balls
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 toasted hamburger buns
Toppings and condiments as desired

Procedures

Combine cheese, flour, and milk in a small bowl and toss with a spoon to combine. Divide mixture evenly between two small ramekins and set aside. Set a steamer insert into a large saucepot with 1 inch of water. Bring water to a simmer over medium-high heat and cover pot.
Heat vegetable oil in a 10-inch cast iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat until smoking. Add beef balls to skillet and smash firmly with a stiff spatula into 4- to 4 1/2-inch patties. Season generously with salt and pepper.
While patties cook on first side, transfer cheese cups to steamer and close lid. After the first side is well browned (about 1 1/2 minutes), carefully scrape patties up from bottom us skillet using a stiff spatula and flip. Season top side with salt and pepper. Continue to cook until second side is browned, about 1 minute longer.
Transfer patties to toasted bun bottoms. Carefully pick up a ramekin full of cheese with a pot holder and stir with a spoon until homogenous and completely smooth. Scrape cheese out of ramekin over burger. Repeat with second burger. Serve immediately with condiments and toppings as desired.

A Better Big Mac

2011-05-13T13:00:00Z

Note: Store-bought ground beef can be substituted for the short rib. Mac Sauce can be used as soon as its made, but it gets mellower if you let it sit in the fridge at least overnight in a covered container.

Ingredients

serves makes 1 serving, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes

3.2 ounces boneless beef short rib, well-chilled
1/4 cup finely minced onion
1 teaspoon onion grated on a microplane grater
1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon marmite, vegemite, or Maggi seasoning
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 egg white
1 whole Wonderbread brand hamburger bun, plus 1 bottom bun
2 tablespoons sesame seeds (about 600)
1/4 cup shredded iceberg lettuce
4 dill pickle slices
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 slice American cheese

Procedures

Pass beef through meat grinder fitted with 1/4-inch plate twice. Form into two even balls and flatten into 4-inch patties using wet hands against a cutting board. Scrape patties up with thin spatula and place on a sheet of parchment paper. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Place minced onion on a double layer of paper towels on a microwave-safe plate and microwave for 10 minutes on low power until mostly dehydrated but not browned. Set aside.
While onion is dehydrating, combine grated onion, mayonnaise, relish, mustard, sugar, Marmite, and turmeric. Stir to combine and refrigerate until ready to use.
Preheat toaster oven or broiler to high. Use one finger to spread a very thin layer of egg white over the top of the top bun. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and place under broiler for 30 seconds until set. Set aside. Use a sharp, thin knife to cut off the very bottom of the bottom bun half, creating a single circular piece of bread with cut surfaces on both sides.
Toast cut side of top bun and bottom bun, and one side of center bun piece under broiler until light golden brown. Place bottom bun and center bun on cutting board toasted-side up. Spread half of sauce on each. Divide dehydrated onions evenly between bottom and center buns and top with lettuce. Place 2 pickle slices on each.
Season burger patties with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy-bottomed 10-inch stainless steel or cast iron skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add patties and cook without moving until first side is crusty and browned, about 1 minute. Scrape up patties with a stiff spatula and flip. Top one patty with 1 slice cheese. Continue cooking until cooked through, about 1 minute longer. Transfer cheese-topped patty to bottom bun and cheeseless patty to middle bun. Place top bun on top of center, then stack center bun on top of bottom. Serve immediately.

Pueblo Green Chili

2011-02-18T15:25:00Z

This chili goes on anything—especially whole cheeseburgers to make Pueblo Sloppers. Place a cheeseburger, bun and all into a bowl. Top with a handful of shredded cheese and pout a couple ladles of green chili on top.

Note: the chili can also be made in a regular pot instead of a pressure cooker. Increase cooking time to 2 hours, adding extra water as necessary if it reduces too far.

Ingredients

serves Makes about 2 quarts, active time 45 minutes, total time 3 hours

8 Mira Sol chilis (or 2 poblanos and 4 cubanelles)
1 jalapeño, finely chopped
2 tablespoons raisins
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes packed in juice
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
5 medium cloves garlic, grated on a microplane grater
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
1 pound pork shoulder or sirloin, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Kosher salt

Procedures

Roast chilis directly over a gas burner set on high heat until well charred on all sides (about 10 minutes total). Transfer to a paper bag, tightly seal the top, and let rest for 10 minutes. Alternatively, char the chilis under a preheated broiler until charred on all sides, about 15 minutes total. Peel the skins off the chilis and chop into 1/2- to 1/4-inch pieces. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cover raisins with hot water in a small microwave-safe bowl Microwave on high heat for 1 minute, then let raising steep until fully softened, about 5 minutes. Blend soaked raisins and tomatoes with a hand blender or in a standing blender until nearly smooth. Set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in pressure cooker (see note) over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally softened, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and oregano and cook, stirring frequently until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add peppers, tomato mixture, chicken stock, and pork. Seal pressure cooker and cook at high pressure for 15 minutes. Release pressure.
Remove lid from pressure cooker and continue to cook without lid until liquid is reduced to half, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil and flour in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly until light blond in color, about 3 minutes. Slowly whisk flour mixture into simmering chili. Continue to cook until desired texture is reached. Season to taste with salt. Cooked chili will keep in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Gooey Cheeseburger Dip

2011-01-28T15:30:00Z

Note: if you don't have a gas burner, you can roast the chilis under the broiler element. Just place them as close as possible and cook on high heat, turning them occasionally until completely charred and blistered.

Ingredients

serves 8 to 12, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes

1 poblano chile
1/2 pound block American cheese from the deli, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 pound sharp cheddar cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound freshly ground beef chuck
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup canned diced tomatoes, drained
5 ounces evaporated milk
1 tablespoons hot sauce (like Frank's)
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves

Procedures

Place chile directly over flame of a gas burner (no pan), or on a rimmed baking sheet under the broiler. Cook, turning occasionally until completely blackened, about 4 minutes on the burner or 8 minutes under the broiler. Place roasted chiles in a bowl and cover with a plate. Let rest for 5 minutes. Peel under cool running water and discard stem and seeds. Chop finely and set aside.
Toss cheeses with cornstarch in large bowl until evenly coated.
Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium high heat until shimmering. Add ground chuck and cook, stirring occasionally until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add cumin and pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add tomatoes, poblanos, and milk and stir to combine. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat to low, and add cheese. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until cheese is completely melted and sauce is smooth. Stir in Frank's, scallions, and cilantro. Serve immediately with crackers, vegetables, and tortilla chips.

The Fake Shack, Mach Two: The Double Shack Stack Cracked

2011-01-07T14:00:00Z

J. Kenji López-Alt http://www.seriouseats.com

Ingredients

serves 2, active time 30 minutes, total time 45 minutes

1 pound fresh ground beef, preferably the Shake Shack blend
4 portobello mushroom caps, 4-inches wide each, stems and gills discarded
2 ounces grated muenster cheese
2 ounces grated sharp cheddar cheese
1 cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 quart peanut oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil
4 slices American cheese
2 Martin's Sandwich-sized Potato Rolls, toasted in butter
2 tablespoons Shack Sauce, or condiments of your choice
2 leaves green-leaf lettuce
4 slices roma tomato

Procedures

Divide beef evenly into four 4-ounce patties and shape each into a puck approximately 2 inches tall by 2.5 inches wide. Set aside in refrigerator.
Line large plate with triple layer of paper towels. Place mushroom caps on plate and top with another triple layer paper towels. Top with heavy second plate and microwave on high heat until mushrooms are completely tender and flexible, about 4 minutes (they will be very hot). Alternatively, steam mushrooms in steamer until tender, about 10 minutes. Once slightly cooled, press firmly between paper towels to remove excess moisture. Set aside.
Combine muenster and cheddar cheese and divide in half. Place one mushroom cap top side down on a 12-inch square of plastic wrap. Form half the cheese into a 3-inch patty and place on top of the mushroom cap. Top with second mushroom cap, top side up. Gather plastic wrap and twist to form mushrooms and cheese into compact patty shape. Repeat with remaining mushrooms and cheese.
Working one mushroom patty, coat in flour, dip in egg wash, and coat in breadcrumbs. Return for a second layer of egg wash, and a second layer of breadcrumbs. Repeat with the second mushroom patty and allow both patties to rest in the crumbs for five minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oil in a wok or sauté pan to 375°F over high heat (use a thermometer). Add the mushroom patties to the hot oil and fry, shaking gently until golden brown on first side, about 2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until second side is golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a paper-towel lined place, season with salt, and tent with foil while you cook the burgers.
Using wadded-up paper towel, rub inside of heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet with vegetable oil, then place over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Season beef pucks on top side with salt and pepper, then place, seasoned side down, in skillet. Using back of heavy, flat spatula, press down on beef pucks firmly to form 4-inch round patties, being careful not to let it stick to bottom of spatula. Season top side with salt and pepper. Cook until crisp brown crust has formed, about 2-minutes.
Carefully scrape patties from skillet, and flip. Top each patty with 1 slice American cheese. Cook until cheese is melted, about 1 minute longer.
While burgers are cooking, spread top bun with 1 tablespoon sauce. Place 1 leaf lettuce and 2 tomatoes on top of sauce. Place 1 cooked burger patty on each bottom bun followed by the mushroom patty and the second burger patty. Close the sandwiches, and serve immediately.

(More) Ultimate(est) Perfect Sliders

2010-12-03T14:00:00Z

Note: if you like seasoned salt (like Lawry's), you can replace the salt and pepper with it.

Special equipment: clean kitchen towel

Ingredients

serves 4, active time 20 minutes, total time 20 minutes

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 large onions, split in half from pole to pole and sliced thinly from pole to pole (About 2 cups)
Kosher salt
1 pound freshly ground beef, divided into eight 2-ounce portions
Freshly ground black pepper
8 small hamburger buns
4 slices American cheese, split in half
16 dill pickles slices
Mustard, ketchup, and mayonnaise, as desired

Procedures

Heat vegetable oil in 10-inch cast iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half of onions and pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until light golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons water and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until onions are deep brown and thin layer of browned onion juice coats bottom of pan, about 4 minutes longer. Remove pan from heat and transfer onions small bowl. Add raw onions to cooked onions and toss thoroughly to combine.
Return skillet to heat and place four beef balls evenly over surface. Using wide, flat spatula, smash balls into circles approximately four inches wide and 1/4-inch thick. Reduce heat to low. Season with salt and pepper (or seasoned salt, if desired, see note). Divide half of onion mixture evenly on top of each patty and press into meat with bottom of spatula. Cook for 1 minute. Carefully flip patties so that onions are in contact with skillet
Place bottom buns upside down on top of patties and top with top buns. Place clean folded kitchen towel on top of burgers so that all burgers are covered and towel drapes over edges of pan (be careful to keep pan away from direct flame). Continue to cook until burgers are cooked through and buns are fully softened with steam, about 2 minutes.
Remove towel. Remove top and bottom buns from burgers. Place 1/2 slice cheese on top of each patty and return top bun to burgers. Cover with kitchen towel and continue to cook until cheese is fully melted, about 1 minute longer. Meanwhile, place 2 pickle slices and condiments as desired on bottom bun. Lift towel. Transfer burgers, onions, cheese, and top buns to bottom buns. Serve and repeat steps 2 through 4 with remaining burgers.

The Ultimate Patty Melt

2010-10-01T13:00:00Z

J. Kenji López-Alt http://www.seriouseats.com

Ingredients

serves 2, active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes

6 tablespoons butter
2 slices rye bread
4 slices American cheese, torn into large pieces
4 slices Swiss cheese, torn into large pieces
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound freshly ground chuck, formed into two 4-ounce patties, roughly the size and shape of 1 slice bread
1 large onion, split in half, sliced thin from pole to pole (about 2 cups)
1/2 cup water

Procedures

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until foaming. Add two slices bread and swirl around pan using hand or spatula. Cook, swirling occasionally until pale golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to cutting board cooked-side up. Divide American cheese evenly between slices, layering them in the center and leaving a 1/4-inch gap around the edges.
Repeat step 1 with remaining bread slices and Swiss cheese.
Season hamburger patties on both sides with salt and pepper. Return skillet to heat to high and melt 1 tablespoon butter in skillet until light brown. Swirl to coat bottom of skillet and add both burger patties. Cook without moving until dark brown crust forms on first side, about 1 1/2 minutes, reducing heat to medium if butter begins to burn or smoke excessively. Flip burgers using spatula and cook on second side without moving until crust develops, 1 1/2 minutes longer.
Transfer burger patties to plate and reduce heat to medium. Add onions, 1 tablespoon butter, and 2 tablespoons water to skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly and scraping up browned bits from bottom of skillet until water evaporates and onions start to fry and leave brown residue on bottom of pan. Add another two tablespoons water and continue to cook. Repeat two more times until water is used up and onions are soft and deep golden brown. Add collected juices from meat plate to onions and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Onions should be moist, but not dripping.
Divide onion mixture evenly between cheese-topped toast slices. Add burger patties to slices with American cheese and close sandwiches.
Add 1 tablespoon butter to skillet. Return to medium heat and cook until butter melts. Sprinkle with salt. Swirl to coat pan and add sandwiches. Cook, swirling sandwiches around pan frequently until deep golden brown on bottom, about 5 minutes. Remove sandwiches from skillet, melt remaining tablespoon butter in pan and sprinkle with salt. Return sandwiches to skillet and cook, swirling frequently until second side is golden brown and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

Cheese Sauce for Cheese Fries and Nachos

2010-09-17T14:45:00Z

Note: This cheese sauce is gooey and tangy. For a spicier version, substitute half the cheddar cheese with Pepper Jack and add 2-3 minced pickled jalapeños, or to taste.

To reheat the sauce, microwave it on high heat, stopping and stirring every 30 seconds until it's fully melted.

Ingredients

serves 4-6 (makes about 1 1/2 cups), active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes

8 ounces extra sharp cheddar cheese (or a mix of cheddar and pepper Jack—see note), grated on large holes of a box grater
1 tablespoon corn starch
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
2 teaspoons Franks Red Hot or other hot sauce

Procedures

Add cheese and cornstarch to large bowl. Toss to combine. Transfer to medium saucepan. Add 1 cup evaporated milk and hot sauce. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with whisk until melted, bubbly, and thickened (about 5 minutes). Mixture will look thin and grainy at first but will thicken and come together after heating. Thin to desired consistency with additional evaporated milk. Serve immediately with fries, tortilla chips, burgers, or hot dogs.

Chili for Chili Burgers, Chili Dogs, or Chili Fries

2010-09-03T12:00:00Z

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

This chili ends up with a homogeneous, saucy texture perfect for topping burgers, hot dogs, or fries. Leftover chili can be stored in the fridge for up to 1 week.

The chili is best with the whole dried chiles indicated in the recipe, but you can substitute 3 tablespoons of your favorite chili powder if desired. Add it to the pot along with the other ground spices in step 2.

Ingredients

serves about 8, active time 20 minutes, total time 95 minutes

2 whole Ancho or Pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, and torn into strips
1 whole New Mexico red, California, Costeño, or Choricero chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn into strips
1 whole Cascabel, Arbol, or Pequin chile, stemmed, seeded, and torn in half
2 tablespoons butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 cloves garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seed, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and ground
1 whole clove, toasted and ground
1 whole star anise, toasted and ground
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 anchovy filet, minced (optional)
1/2 teaspoon Marmite (optional)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 1/2 pounds 80/20 ground chuck or short rib
1 quart chicken stock
2 tablespoons masa harina
1 tablespoon Frank's Red Hot
1 tablespoon bourbon (optional)
Kosher salt

Procedures

Combine all chiles in a medium microwave-safe bowl and cover with water. Microwave on full power for 2 minutes. Remove bowl from microwave and allow chiles to soak for 10 minutes. Using immersion blender or upright blender, blend soaked chiles until smooth, adding soaking water as needed to keep texture loose.
Melt butter over medium-high heat in Dutch oven. When foaming subsides, add onions and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are softened but no browned, about 6 minutes. Add ground spices and oregano and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add tomato paste, soy sauce, anchovy, Marmite (if using), and sugar, and cook, stirring frequently until paste begins to stick to bottom of pan, about 1 1/2 minutes.
Remove pan from heat and add 2 cups of chicken broth. Scrape up any browned bits from bottom of pan with wooden spoon. Add ground beef and break up using whisk until mixture is completely homogeneous (no large chunks of beef should remain). Add remaining chicken stock and return to stovetop and set over medium high heat. Cook, whisking frequently, until mixture comes to a simmer. Cover with lid slightly ajar, reduce heat to low, and cook for 75 minutes, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick and intense.
Combine masa harina and 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl and mix until homogeneous. Add masa mixture, hot sauce, and bourbon to chili and stir to combine. Bring to a boil and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately on top of burgers, hot dogs, or fries.

In-N-Out's Double-Double, Animal Style

2010-07-23T13:00:00Z

[Photograph: Kenji Alt]

Want more details? Here are the ins-n-outs.

Follow Kenji on Facebook or Twitter.

Ingredients

serves two 1/4-pound burgers

1/2 pound fresh beef chuck with plenty of fat, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided
1 large onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
2 teaspoons sweet pickle relish
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
2 soft Hamburger buns, preferably Arnold brand
Freshly ground black pepper
8 dill pickles chips
2 quarter-inch-thick slices ripe tomato
2 leaves fresh iceberg lettuce, white core section removed, torn to bun-sized pieces
1/4 cup yellow mustard
4 slices deli-cut American Cheese

Procedures

If using a meat grinder: Place feed shaft, blade, and 1/4-inch die of meat grinder in freezer until well-chilled. Meanwhile, place meat chunks on rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each piece and place in freezer for 10 minutes until meat is firm.
Combine meat in large bowl and toss to combine. Grind meat and refrigerate immediately until ready for use. Handle as gently as possible. Proceed with step three below.
If using a food processor: Place bowl and blade of food processor in freezer until well-chilled. Meanwhile, place meat chunks on rimmed baking sheet, leaving space between each piece, and place in freezer for 10 minutes until meat is firm, but not frozen.
Combine meat in large bowl and toss to combine. Working in two batches, place meat cubes in food processor and pulse until medium-fine grind is achieved, about 8 to 10 one-second pulses, scraping down processor bowl as necessary. Refrigerate ground meat immediately until ready for use. Handle as gently as possible.
Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 400 degrees while you cook the onions: Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a 10-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt to skillet. Reduce heat to medium low, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally until onions are well browned, about 15 minutes. Once onions begin to sizzle heavily and appear dry, add 1 tablespoon water to skillet and stir. Continue cooking until water evaporates and onions start sizzling again. Repeat process, adding 1 tablespoon of water with each iteration until onions are meltingly soft and dark brown, about 3 times total. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
Make the sauce: Combine mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, sugar, and vinegar in small bowl. Stir to combine.
Place closed buns in preheated oven for 2 minutes until slightly darkened and crisped. Heat 1/2 teaspoon oil in 12-inch non-stick skillet or griddle over medium-high heat until shimmering. Open buns and add face-down to skillet. Toast until dark brown around the edges, about 1 minute total.
Form ground beef into four 2-ounce patties, using damp hands to press each into a patty about 3/16ths of an inch thick and 4 inches wide. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add remaining 1/2 teaspoon oil to pan, swirl to coat, and heat over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add burger patties and cook without moving until well browned and crusty on first side, about 2 1/2 minutes. While they are cooking, spread 1 tablespoon mustard on raw side of each patty with a spoon. Meanwhile, top each bottom bun with up half of spread, 4 slices pickles, 1 slice tomato, and lettuce. Flip patties with a thin spatula so mustard side is down and continue to cook for 1 minute. Top each patty with a slice of cheese. Divide onion mixture evenly between two patties. Place the other two patties directly on top of the onions , sandwiching them between the beef. Transfer patty stacks to bottom bun. Top with top bun, and serve immediately.

Sous-Vide Burgers

2010-06-10T13:00:00Z

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Read all about sous-vide burgers here »

About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and co-writes the blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.

Ingredients

serves four 6-ounce burgers

24 ounces freshly ground beef (preferably the Blue Label Burger Blend)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Aromatics as desired (optional—see note)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 slices cheese (I recommend American or cheddar)
4 soft hamburger buns, lightly toasted

Procedures

Divide meat into four equal 6-ounce portions and gently shape each one into a patty 4-inches wide by approximately 3/4 of an inch thick. Season generously with salt and pepper. Place patties and optional aromatics in individual sandwich-sized zipper-lock bags. Seal bags, leaving one-inch open at top corner. Slowly lower bags one at a time into pot of water by holding onto the open corner. Press air out of bag as it is submerged. Seal bag just before last corner is submerged.
Preheat water oven (or beer cooler) to desired final temperature (120 degrees for rare, 130 degrees for medium rare, or 140 degrees for medium). Add burgers and cook for at least 30 minutes and up to 12 hours (do not cook burgers longer than 4 hours if your temperature is below 130 degrees).
Remove burgers from bags and carefully dry on paper towels. Season again with salt and pepper. Heat 12-inch heavy-bottomed cast iron or stainless steel skillet over high heat with vegetable oil until oil begins to smoke. Add patties and cook until well browned on first side, about 45 seconds. Flip patties (add cheese as desired) and cook until second side is well browned, about 45 seconds longer. Place patties on buns, top with condiments as desired, and serve.

Perfect Thin and Crispy French Fries

2010-05-28T12:00:00Z

More than meets the fry: Check out the science here.

Ingredients

serves four

2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 large), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch by 1/4-inch fries (keep potatoes stored in a bowl of water)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Kosher salt
2 quarts peanut oil

Procedures

Place potatoes and vinegar in saucepan and add 2 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Potatoes should be fully tender, but not falling apart. Drain and spread on paper towel-lined rimmed baking sheet. Allow to dry for five minutes.
Meanwhile, heat oil in 5-quart Dutch oven or large wok over high heat to 400°F. Add 1/3 of fries to oil (oil temperature should drop to around 360°F). Cook for 50 seconds, agitating occasionally with wire mesh spider, then remove to second paper-towel lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining potatoes (working in two more batches), allowing oil to return to 400°F after each addition. Allow potatoes to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Continue with step 3, or for best results, freeze potatoes at least over night, or up to 2 months.
Return oil to 400°F over high heat. Fry half of potatoes until crisp and light golden brown, about 3 1/2 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain at around 360°F. Drain in a bowl lined with paper towels and season immediately with kosher salt. Cooked fries can be kept hot and crisp on a wire rack set on a sheet tray in a 200°F oven while second batch is cooked. Serve immediately.