Serious Eats: Recipes - The Food Lab

The Food Lab's Perfect Grilled Ribeye Steaks

2012-05-14T17:40:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: For best results, use prime, bone-in ribeye steaks. Ask your butcher to cut them at least 1 1/2-inches thick. Each bone-in steak should be about 1 pound. Boneless steaks can be used as well. They should be about 12 ounces. New York Strip steaks can be used in place of ribeye.

About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Chief Creative Officer of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.

Ingredients

serves makes 2 large steaks, serving 2 to 3, active time 15 minutes, total time 1 1/2 hours, or up to 4 days

2 ribeye steaks, 1 1/2 to 2-inches thick, about 2 pounds total (see note above)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Procedures

Season steaks liberally with salt. Set on a plate and let rest for at least 40 minutes, or up to 4 days. If resting longer than 40 minutes, tent loosely with plastic wrap and transfer to refrigerator until ready to cook.
Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange the coals on one side of the charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Season steak with pepper and place on cooler side of grill, cover, and cook with all of the vents open flipping and taking temperature every few minutes until steaks register 115°F for medium-rare or 125°F for medium on an instant read thermometer, 10 to 15 minutes total.
Transfer steaks to hot side of grill and cook, flipping frequently until a deep char has developed and internal temperature registers 125°F for medium-rare or 135°F for medium, about 2 minutes total. Transfer steaks to a cutting board and allow to rest for at least 5 minutes and up to 10. Carve and serve immediately.

Grilled Asparagus, Zucchini, and Bread Salad with Olive-Caper Dressing

2012-05-11T16:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!

Special equipment: grill, wooden or metal skewers

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 45 minutes, total time 45 minutes

2 medium red onions, cut into 1/2-inch slices
1 pound zucchini (about 3 medium), split in half lengthwise
1 1/2 pounds asparagus, trimmed
1 loaf Italian bread (about 12 ounces), split in half lengthwise
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon
1/4 cup chopped pitted black olives (such as kalamata)
1/4 cup capers, drained, rinsed, dried, and chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Procedures

Place onion slices flat on cutting board thread two wooden skewers through each onion slices to keep them flat as they grill. Place onions, zucchini, asparagus, and bread on two large rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle evenly with 1/4 cup olive oil and rub with hands to coat all the vegetables and bread evenly. Season everything with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Light one chimney full of charcoal. When all the charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and spread the coals evenly over half of the coal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover gill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. If using a gas grill, preheat half the grill to high.
When fire is ready, place bread over cool side of grill. Place onions in center of grill. Place zucchini cut-side-down over hot side. Cook, turning once until well charred on both sides and just starting to become tender, about 4 minutes total. Return to baking sheet. Check bread and flip and rotate to make sure it's drying evenly. Check onions and flip if necessary.
Add asparagus to hot side of grill and cook, turning occasionally until well charred and barely tender, about 3 minutes total. Return to baking sheet. Continue cooking onions until charred and tender throughout, about 10 minutes total. Return to baking sheet.
When bread is mostly dry, transfer to hot side of grill and cook, turning occasionally, until well toasted and lightly charred, about 1 minute total. Return to baking sheet. Split lemon and place on grill cut-side-down. Grill until lightly charred and warm about 4 minutes.
Combine olives, capers, parsley, vinegar, and remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Cut zucchini, asparagus, bread, and onions into rough chunks and add to bowl. Season with salt and pepper and toss everything well to combine, adding extra olive oil to taste if desired.
Transfer salad to a bowl and serve with charred lemon halves.

Lemony Pasta with Asparagus and Bacon

2012-05-10T17:40:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes

1 1/2 pounds asparagus, ends trimmed, stalks and tips cut into 1-inch segments
Kosher salt
1/4 pound bacon, finely sliced
8 scallions, finely sliced, whites and greens reserved separately
1 pound fettucine or other noodle-shaped pasta
1 tablespoon juice and 1 teaspoon zest from 1 lemon
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and cored, finely minced
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely minced fresh parsley leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, plus more for garnish

Procedures

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add asparagus and cook until just tender but still bright green, about 2 minutes. Transfer to an ice bath to chill. Dry carefully and set aside. Keep water on stove for pasta.
Add bacon to a large saucepan or dutch oven and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until bacon is crisp and rendered, about 5 minutes. Add asparagus, increase heat to high, and cook, tossing and stirring frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add scallion whites and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and add 1 cup asparagus cooking water to the pan.
Return the asparagus water to a boil and add the pasta. Cook according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water, and add to pot with bacon and asparagus. Do not return pot to heat. Add lemon juice and zest, jalapeño, butter, parsley, scallion greens, and plenty of black pepper. Stir until butter is melted. Add grated cheese and extra pasta water, stirring untili desired consistency is reached. Season to taste with salt and more pepper.
Serve immediately, garnishing with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.

Spring Vegetable Risotto With Asparagus, Zucchini, Fava Beans, Snap Peas, and Morels

2012-05-09T17:45:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: Note: I prefer using Carnaroli rice for its slight longer grains and firmer texture. Feel free to use any risotto-style rice like Arborio or Vailone Nano.

Ingredients

serves serves 4 to 6, active time 1 1/2 hours, total time 1 1/2 hours

1/2 pound mixed asparagus (white, green, purple, or a combination thereof), ends trimmed, stalks cut into 1-inch segments, tips removed and reserved separately
1/2 pound sugar snap peas, cut into 1/2-inch segments on the bias
1/2 pound fresh shelled fava beans, still in their skins
1/2 pound baby zucchini, split in half lengthwise
2 ounces dried morel mushrooms
1 1/2 cups (about 13.5 ounces) risotto-style rice (see note)
1 cup white wine
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium cloves garlic, grated on a microplane grater (about 2 teaspoons)
2 small shallots, finely minced (about 2 tablespoons)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon juice and 2 teaspoons zest from 1 lemon

Procedures

Bring 2 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath. Working with one vegetable at a time, cook asparagus stalks, asparagus tips, snap peas, fava beans, and zucchini by adding to water and cooking until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes (taste as they cook to confirm doneness). Transfer to ice bath to stop cooking, then drain and transfer to a bowl. Carefully peel skins off of fava beans. Set all vegetables aside while you prepare the risotto.
Add mushrooms to a microwave-safe bowl and cover with 1 quart of vegetable blanching water. Microwave on high heat until just starting to simmer, about 5 minutes. Let steep for 10 minutes, then remove mushrooms and carefully dry with paper towels. Reserve mushroom liquid.
Combine rice and mushroom liquid in a large bowl. Agitate rice with fingers or a whisk to release starch. Strain through a fine mesh strainer set in a 2-quart liquid cup measure or other large bowl. Allow to drain five minutes, stirring rice occasionally. Reserve liquid.
Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add rice and cook, stirring and tossing frequently until all liquid is evaporated, oil is bubbling, and rice has begun to take on a golden blond color and nutty aroma, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and shallots and continue to cook, stirring frequently until aromatic, about 1 minute. Give reserved broth a good stir and pour all but one cup over the rice. Increase heat to high and heat until simmering. Stir rice once, cover, and reduce heat to lowest possible setting.
Cook rice for ten minutes undisturbed. Stir once, shake pan gently to redistribute rice, cover, and continue cooking until liquid is mostly absorbed and rice is tender with just a faint bite, about 10 minutes longer.
While rice is cooking, heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add dried mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until faintly nutty and crisp in bits, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a plate.
Remove lid from rice and add final cup of liquid. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and shaking rice constantly until thick and creamy. Fold in vegetables, mushrooms, parsley, and lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add water just until risotto is creamy and loose. Serve immediately.

Charred Asparagus Tacos with Creamy Adobo and Pickled Red Onions

2012-05-08T12:40:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Ingredients

serves serves 4, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes

2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, finely sliced
2 medium cloves garlic, grated on a microplane grater (about 2 teaspoons)
2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 chipotle chili and 1 tablespoon sauce from 1 can chipotles en adobo
2/3 cup sour cream or Mexican crema
2 teaspoons fresh juice from 2 limes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 1/2 pounds asparagus (green, white, or a mix), bottoms trimmed, cut into 1-inch segments
24 corn tortillas warmed
Pickled Red Oniona
Queso fresco or queso cotija
Fresh cilantro leaves
Lime wedges

Procedures

Heat ancho chiles in a medium saucepan over high heat, turning occasionally, until toasted and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a microwave-safe measuring cup and cover with 1 cup water. Microwave on high heat until just simmering, about 3 minutes. Let steep until chilis are softened. Drain chilis, reserving liquid.
Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onions, and cook, stirring frequently until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and oregano and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add vinegar, chipotle chili and sauce, and reserved chili liquid. Scrape up browned bits from bottom of pan. Transfer contents to jar of a blender along with soaked chilis, sour cream, and lime juice. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
Heat remining tablespoon oil in a large skillet over high heat until smoking. Add asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and cook without moving until well charred on bottom, about 2 minutes. Toss and repeat, allowing asparagus to char before tossing again. Repeat until all asparagus is charred and softened, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate.
Form 12 double stacks of tortillas. Spread a tablespoon of sauce over each one. Divide asparagus evenly between tortillas. Top with pickled onions, cheese, and cilantro. Serve immediately with lime wedges and extra sauce.

Asparagus and Ramp Soup with Yogurt

2012-05-07T18:40:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: If ramps are unavailable, substitute with 1 clove garlic and 1 bunch sliced scallions.

Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!

Ingredients

serves Makes about 2 1/2 quarts, serving 4 to 6, active time 30 minutes, total time 30 minutes

2 pounds asparagus stalks, fibrous root end trimmed
Kosher salt
1 pound trimmed ramps, divided (see note above)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups vegetable or low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon
2 tablespoons chopped mint

Procedures

Cut the top inch off of each asparagus stalk. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have a large ice bath ready. Add asparagus tips and cook until bright green and tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to ice bath until chilled. Dry carefully and reserve. Add asparagus stalks to water and cook until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to ice bath to chill. Transfer chilled stalks to jar of a blender.
Set aside 8 ramps (if using scallions, set aside 2 whole sliced scallions). Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add remaining ramps and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring and tossing frequently, until tender and lightly browned. Transfer to blender jar. Add broth and yogurt to blender. Blend on high speed until completely smooth, stopping to scrape down sides and adding water as necessary until rich, soupy consistency is reached.
With blender running, slowly drizzle in olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then strain through a fine mesh strainer if smoother texture is desired.
Transfer to a medium saucepan and heat, stirring frequently. When ready to serve, stir in lemon juice. Melt remaining butter in a large skillet. Sautée ramps and asparagus tips until lightly browned then transfer to a plate. Ladle soup into individual bowl. Garnish with sauteed ramps, asparagus, chopped mint, and an extra drizzle of olive oil (be generous). Serve immediately.

Deep Fried Breakfast Pizza with Sausage, Eggs, Parmesan, and Hollandaise

2012-04-18T15:30:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Every recipe we publish is tested, tasted, and Serious Eats-approved by our staff. Never miss a recipe again by following @SeriousRecipes on Twitter!

Special equipment: wok or dutch oven for deep frying

Ingredients

serves makes 4 pizzas, serving 6 to 8, active time 1 1/2 hours, total time 1 day

16 ounces (about 3 cups plus 2 tablespoons) bread flour, plus more for dusting
.3 ounces (about 2 1/3 teaspoons) kosher salt, plus extra for assembly
.2 ounces (about 1 teaspoon) active dry yeast
11 ounces (1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons) water
2 quarts vegetable, canola, or peanut oil
1/2 pound raw bulk maple breakfast sausage
4 eggs
4 tablespoons pure maple syrup (optional)
2 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 recipe Hollandaise sauce, warm
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

Procedures

Combine flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. Whisk until homogenous. Add water and stir with hands until dough comes together and no dry flour remains. Knead lightly for about 30 seconds, then cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 8 to 16 hours.
Turn dough out onto lightly floured board and using floured hands, divide into four pieces. Form each piece into a ball and place on floured board, leaving a few inches of space between each ball. Cover with plastic wrap or with a moist, clean dish towel. Let rise for two hours.
When dough has risen, preheat broiler to high heat with the rack set about 6 inches below the broiler element. Place a 10-inch cast iron or stainless steel skillet under the broiler. Add oil to a wide wok or Dutch oven and heat over high heat to 350°F, as registered on an instant-read or deep-fry thermometer. Adjust flame to maintain this temperature.
On a lightly floured bowl, stretch or roll one dough ball into a disk about 10-inches in diameter. Using your fingertips, make a dozen to 18 small holes in the stretched dough, leaving the outer 1-inch intact.
Carefully lower dough into hot oil, using a wire mesh spider or large metal spatula to keep it submerged. Fry until puffy and lightly crisped on bottom side, about 45 seconds. Carefully flip the dough with tongs and cook until second side is crisp, about 45 seconds longer. Carefully remove hot skillet from under broiler and set on stovetop. Flip dough back over and transfer to pre-heated skillet.
Scatter 1/4 of sausage over top of pizza, leaving a 1-inch border all around and a 2-inch wide hole in the center for the egg. Make sure sausage pieces are no more than 1/4-inch in size, or they will not cook through. Break egg into center of pizza, drizzle sausage with maple syrup, then sprinkle entire pizza with 1/4 of Parmesan. Transfer to broiler and cook until edges are charred (this will happen much faster than with a normal pizza), and egg is set but still liquid in the center, about 1 1/2 minutes.
Drizzle finished pizza with hollandaise and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately, then repeat steps 4 through 6 for remaining pizzas.

Homemade Vegan Burgers That Don't Suck

2012-03-26T13:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: For best texture, the veggie burgers must be cooked within thirty minutes of adding bread crumbs or they will become mushy. To prepare in advance, combine all ingredients except for crumbs and mix in the crumbs just before forming the patties and serving.

Special equipment: food processor

Ingredients

serves makes about 2 pounds veggie burger mix, active time 1 hour, total time 1 1/2 hours

1 1/2 pounds button mushrooms, trimmed
1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 thyme sprigs
1 whole small eggplant (about 1/2 pound)
2 large leeks, chopped fine (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 large celery rib, chopped fine (about 1/2 cup)
1 medium clove garlic, grated on a microplane grater (about 1 teaspoon)
3/4 cup dry pearl barley
1 (14-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained and patted dry on paper towels
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon marmite, vegemite, or Maggi seasoning
1 cup toasted cashews, pinenuts, or a mix
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 1/2-cups panko-style bread crumbs (see note above)

Procedures

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. In a large bowl, toss mushrooms with 1 tablespoon oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Coat eggplant with another tablespoon olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Wrap eggplant with heavy duty aluminum foil. Transfer mushrooms and eggplant to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Scatter thyme over mushrooms. Bake, turning mushrooms and wrapped eggplant occasionally until mushrooms are dark brown and eggplant is completely tender (test with a cake tester or thin skewer), about 45 minutes. Remove from oven, unwrap eggplant, and set aside to cool.
While mushrooms and eggplant roast, heat remaining two tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add leeks and celery and cook, stirring and tossing occasionally, until completely softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl and set aside to cool.
Place barley in a pot and cover with water by 2 inches. Stir once then place over high heat. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until barley is completely tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and transfer cooked barley to a clean kitchen towel or a triple layer of heavy-duty paper towels. Roll towels tightly and press to remove excess moisture. Transfer barley to a large bowl.
Add half of garbanzo beans to the bowl of a food processor along with flour, baking powder, soy sauce, Marmite and half of eggplant (reserve remaining eggplant for another use). Process until a smooth paste forms, scraping down sides as necessary. Transfer mixture to bowl with barley. Pulse remaining chickpeas in food processor and pulse until beans are chopped to about the size of a lentil (5 to 6 short bursts), scraping down sides as necessary. Transfer to bowl with barley mixture. Chop cashews or pinenuts (if using) in the food processor the same way and add to barley mix.
When mushrooms are cool, add to bowl of food processor and pulse until finely chopped but still coarse in texture, about 8 to 10 short pulses. Add to barley mix. When leeks and celery are cool, transfer to food processor. Chop with 8 to 10 short pulses and add to barley mix.
Using bare hands or a spatula, stir together mixture until completely homogenous. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mixture can be refrigerated and stored for up to 5 days at this point or frozen in an airtight freezer bag for up to 3 months.
When Ready To Serve: Add breadcrumbs to mixture and work them in with your hands. Make a sample patty. It should have the texture of ground beef and hold together easily. If not, add water a tablespoon at a time until it comes together. Divide mixture into eight patties about 4-inches across and 1/2 an inch thick. Patties must be cooked within 30 minutes of adding breadcrumbs (see note above).
To Finish on a Griddle or in a Skillet: Heat three tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add four patties and cook without moving until first side is well-browned, about 3 minutes. I like to press a disk of sliced onion into the top side while it cooks. Flip burgers and top with cheese (if desired) and cook until second side is browned and cheese is melted, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a toasted bun and serve with condiments as desired.
To Finish on the Grill: Preheat a gas or charcoal grill with a medium-high fire. Rub the grill grates with an oil-soaked paper towel and add the burgers. Cook without moving until well-browned, about four minutes. Flip burgers, top with cheese if desired, and cook on second side until well browned, about 4 minutes longer. Transfer to toasted bun and serve.

Skillet Neapolitan Pizza (No Kneading or Oven Required!)

2012-03-13T13:45:00Z

Note: This technique can be used with your favorite pizza dough recipe or with store-bought dough. It works best with a blow torch or a gas burner, but an electric burner will work as well.

Ingredients

serves makes 4 10-inch pizzas, active time 30 minutes, total time 1 day

16 ounces (about 3 cups plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
.3 ounces (about 2 1/3 teaspoons) kosher salt, plus extra for assembly
.2 ounces (about 1 teaspoon) active dry yeast
12 ounces water
1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled Italian tomatoes packed in juice
1 (12 to 16-ounce) ball buffalo mozzarella or fresh cow's milk mozzarella, at room temperature
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Handful fresh basil leaves

Procedures

Combine flour, salt, and yeast in a large bowl. Whisk until homogenous. Add water and stir with hands until dough comes together and no dry flour remains. Dough will be very sticky. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 8 to 16 hours.
Turn dough out onto heavily floured board and using floured hands, divide into four pieces. Form each piece into a ball and place on floured board, leaving a few inches of space between each ball. Cover with plastic wrap or with a well-floured clean dish towel. Let rise for two hours.
Meanwhile, roughly blend tomatoes in a food processor, blender, with a hand blender, or by hand. Season to taste with salt. Roughly tear mozzarella into 1/2- to 1-inch chunks and squeeze out excess whey.
When dough has risen, gently stretch one dough ball on a well-floured board into a round about 6 inches in diameter. Gently lift dough and drape across knuckles, slowly stretching it out by rotating it around your knuckles until it's about 10 inches across.
Preheat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water dropped on its surface forms a bead that skids around (about 500 to 600°F). Carefully transfer dough to skillet and cover with tight-fitting lid. Cook until bottom side is very lightly browned and dough has puffed up in spots, about 1 minute. Remove dough with a metal spatula. deflate all bubbles in the center of the dough, leaving bubbles around the edges.
Flip dough and return to skillet so that the cooked side is now facing up. cook, shaking occasionally until the dough is darkly charred in spots. Remove to cutting board and invert (so that first-cooked side is now back on the bottom)
If using a blow torch: carefully torch edges of crust until roughly charred and browned in spots. Continue with step 8. If using a gas burner: Place pizza dough top-side down (the side you cooked second facing down) with the very edge hanging over the edge of the skillet. Cook the overhanging edge directly over the flame of a gas burner until well-charred. Rotate pizza so new section is overhanging edge and char again. Repeat until entire crust edge is charred. Continue with step 8. Alternatively, place a wire cooling rack directly over the burner flame. Invert pizza dough and use flame from burner to char and brown the edges of the crust. Continue with step 8. If using an electric burner: Proceed to step 8.
Make sure dough is facing right-side up (it should be facing the same way it was when you first put it in the skillet). Spread a few tablespoons of tomato sauce over the dough, leaving the risen bubbly edges uncovered. Scatter a few pieces of mozzarella and a few basil leaves over the pizza. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Return pizza to skillet, reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until bottom is nicely charred and mozzarella is melted, about 3 minutes longer. If using torch, you can use it to help melt the cheese.
Serve pizza immediately. Repeat steps 4 through 8 with remaining three balls of dough.

Pork Belly Buns with Spicy Mayo, Scallions, and Pickled Bean Sprouts

2012-03-09T18:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

These buns combine spicy mayo, scallions, and pickled bean sprouts. They'd also be great with some hoisin sauce and sliced scallions or sweet Japanese mayo and shredded lettuce.

Note: Folded Chinese-style steamed buns can be found in the refrigerated or frozen section of most Chinese markets. To reheat, first allow buns to thaw to room temperature in their packaging (if frozen). Transfer six to a large microwave-safe plate and cover with a double layer of damp paper towels. Microwave at high power until hot, about 1 1/2 minutes. Repeat with remaining buns. Alternatively, buns can be reheated in a bamboo steamer set over a wok of simmering water. If you don't have a blowtorch, pork belly slices can be charred by arranging on a foil-lined baking sheet and placing 2-inches from a preheated broiler until crisp and brown. Flip slices and repeat to brown second side.

About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Editor of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.

Ingredients

serves makes 12 pork buns, serving 6 to 12 as an appetizer, active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes (once you have the leftover chashu)

For the Pickled Bean Sprouts
1 cup rice vinegar
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon salt
3 cups picked mung bean sprouts
For the Spicy Mayonnaise:
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chili paste, such as sriracha, gochujang, or sambal oelek
To assemble
12 quarter-inch-thick slices chashu pork (see recipe here.)
1 cup reserved broth from chashu pork recipe
6 scallions, finely sliced at a heavy bias
Shredded iceberg lettuce (if desired)
12 Chinese folded steamed buns (see note above)

Procedures

Make the pickled bean sprouts: Combine water, vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring until sugar and salt are dissolved. Place bean sprouts in a small bowl. Pour hot pickling liquid over them. Cover with a paper towel, pressing the towel down into the liquid to make sure sprouts are completely submerged. Set aside.
Make the spicy mayo: Combine mayonnaise and chili paste in a small bowl. Stir with a fork until combined. Set aside.
Char the pork: Place pork slices in a medium skillet and pour broth on top. Heat over medium-high heat until simmering and pork slices are heated through. Transfer with a slotted metal spatula to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Using a blowtorch or kitchen torch, char top of each slice by running the flame rapidly back and forth over each slice until evenly crisped. Flip and repeat on second side. Alternatively, use the broiler (see note above).
Assemble the buns: Heat buns (see note above). Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly over insides of each bun. If using, spread some shredded iceberg lettuce on bottom half of bun. Lay a slice of pork in each and top with pickled bean sprouts and sliced scallions. Close buns and serve.

Chashu Pork (Marinated Braised Pork Belly for Tonkotsu Ramen)

2012-03-08T19:25:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Ingredients

serves serves 6 to 8, active time 1 hour, total time 3 hours (plus time to cool)

2 pound slab of boneless pork belly, skin-on
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 cup sake
1 cup mirin
1/2 cup sugar
6 scallions, roughly chopped
6 whole garlic cloves
One 2-inch knob ginger, roughly sliced
1 whole shallot, split in half (skin on)

Procedures

Lay pork belly on cutting board and roll up lengthwise, with skin facing out.
Using butchers twine, tightly secure pork belly at 3/4-inch intervals.
Preheat oven to 275°F. Heat 1 cup water, soy sauce, sake, mirin, sugar, scallions, garlic, ginger, and shallot in a medium saucepan over high heat until boiling. Add pork belly (it won't be submerged). Cover with a lid left slightly ajar. Transfer to oven and cook, turning pork occasionally, until pork is fully tender and a cake tester or thin knife inserted into its center meets little resistance, 3 to 4 hours.Transfer contents to a sealed container and refrigerate until completely cool.
When ready to serve, remove pork belly and strain broth. Reserve broth for another use (like making ajitsuke tamago). Slice pork belly into thin rounds (it might help to cut it in half lengthwise first).
Reheat pork belly slices in soup broth with noodles and other garnishes. Alternatively, heat a small amount of reserved broth in a skillet and heat pork slices in broth until hot or reheat with a blowtorch, charring its surface. Serve.

Japanese Marinated Soft Boiled Egg for Ramen (Ajitsuke Tamago)

2012-03-05T17:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Note: This recipe can be made using leftover broth from chashu pork. If you have this broth, replace all the ingredients in the marinade with the broth.

Ingredients

serves makes 6 eggs, active time 10 minutes, total time At least 4 hours to marinate

1 cup water
1 cup sake
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup sugar
6 eggs

Procedures

Combine water, sake, soy, mirin, and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk until sugar is dissolved. Set aside
Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Pierce fat end of each egg with a thumbtack to make a tiny hole (this prevents them from cracking and eliminates the air bubble at the end). Carefully lower eggs into water with a wire mesh spider or slotted spoon. Reduce heat to maintain a bare simmer. Cook for exactly 6 minutes. Drain hot water and carefully peel eggs under cold running water (the whites will be quite delicate).
Transfer eggs to a bowl that just barely fits them all. Pour marinade on top until eggs are covered or just floating. Place a double-layer of paper towels on top and press down until completely saturated in liquid to help keep eggs submerged and marinating evenly. Refrigerate and marinate at least four hours and up to 12. Discard marinade after 12 hours. Store eggs in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat in ramen soup to serve.

Rich and Creamy Tonkotsu Ramen Broth

2012-02-28T16:55:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

It's time for another round of The Food Lab. Got a suggestion for an upcoming topic? Email Kenji here, and he'll do his best to answer your queries in a future post. Become a fan of The Food Lab on Facebook or follow it on Twitter for play-by-plays on future kitchen tests and recipe experiments.

NOTE: This broth takes a full day or at least overnight to make. Plan accordingly. Unused broth can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three days or frozen for up to three months. This recipe is for the broth only. For a full meal, you will also need ramen-style noodles and toppings of your choice. Pictured toppings include preserved bamboo shoot, sliced braised pork belly, soft boiled marinated eggs, sliced scallions, raw enoki mushrooms, and blanched baby bok choy leaves.

Special equipment: Large stockpot with a heavy, tight-fitting lid

Ingredients

serves makes about 3 quarts broth, serving 6 to 8, active time 2 hours, total time 12 to 18 hours

3 pounds pig trotters, split lengthwise or cut crosswise into 1-inch disks (as your butcher to do this for you)
2 pounds chicken backs and carcasses, skin and excess fat removed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, skin on, roughly chopped
12 garlic cloves
One 3-inch knob ginger, roughly chopped
2 whole leeks, washed and roughly chopped
2 dozen scallions, white parts only (reserve greens and light green parts for garnishing finished soup)
6 ounces whole mushrooms or mushroom scraps
1 pound slab pork fat back

Procedures

Place pork and chicken bones in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Place on a burner over high heat and bring to a boil. Remove from heat as soon as boil is reached.
While pot is heating, heat vegetable oil in a medium cast iron or non-stick skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add onions, garlic, and ginger. Cook, tossing occasionally until deeply charred on most sides, about 15 minutes total. Set aside.
Once pot has come to a boil, dump water down the drain. Carefully wash all bones under cold running water, removing any bits of dark marrow or coagulated blood. Bones should be uniform grey/white after you've scrubbed them. Use a chopstick to help remove small bits of dark marrow from inside the trotters or near the chicken's spines.
Return bones to pot along with charred vegetables, leeks, scallion whites, mushrooms, and pork fatback. Top up with cold water. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, skimming off any scum that appears (this should stop appearing within the first 20 minutes or so). Use a clean sponge or moist paper towels to wipe and black or gray scum off from around the rim of the pot. Reduce heat to a bare simmer and place a heavy lid on top.
Once the lid is on, check the pot after 15 minutes. It should be at a slow rolling boil. If not, increase or decrease heat slightly to adjust boiling speed. Boil broth until pork fatback is completely tender, about 4 hours. Carefully remove pork fat with a slotted spatula. Transfer fatback to a sealed container and refrigerate until step 7. Return lid to pot and continue cooking until broth is opaque with the texture of light cream, about 6 to 8 hours longer, topping up as necessary to keep bones submerged at all times. If you must leave the pot unattended for an extended period of time, top up the pot and reduce the heat to the lowest setting while you are gone. Return to a boil when you come back and continue cooking, topping up with more water as necessary.
Once broth is ready, cook over high heat until reduced to around 3 quarts. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot. Discard solids. For an even cleaner soup, strain again through a chinois or a fine mesh strainer lined with several layers of cheese cloth. Skim liquid fat from top with a ladle and discard.
Finely chop cooked pork fatback and whisk into finished broth. To serve, season broth with condiments of your choice (salt, soy sauce, miso, sesame paste, grated fresh garlic, chili oil or a mixture of all, for instance) and serve with cooked ramen noodles and toppings as desired.

The Ultimate Extra-Crispy Double Fried Confit Buffalo Wings

2012-01-31T16:10:00Z

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Notes: The stove-top method is faster and easier for some folks, but the oven method will get you slightly moister end results.

Chicken wings can be frozen after step 1. To freeze chicken, place on a large plate or rimmed baking sheet, seaprating each piece. Freeze until solid, then transfer chicken pieces to a zipper-lock freezer bag. Keep frozen for up to 2 months. To cook from frozen, remove as many as you'd like to cook from the freezer and allow them to thaw at room temperature for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours before continuing with step 2.

To serve all the chicken at once instead of in batches, transfer chicken directly from the fryer in step 3 to a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and place in a 200°F oven while you cook the remaining batches. Toss all the chicken with the sauce at once and serve.

Special equipment: Large wok, Dutch oven, or chicken fryer

Ingredients

serves serves 4 to 8, active time 30 minutes, total time 2 to 36 hours

3 quarts peanut or canola oil
4 pounds chicken wings, cut into drumettes and flats
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup Frank's RedHot Sauce
Blue cheese dressing
Celery sticks

Procedures

Stovetop method: Place oil and chicken wings in a large wok or Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it registers 225 to 250°F on an instant-read or deep-fry thermometer (chicken should be gently bubbling). Continue to cook, stirring and flipping chicken occasionally while adjusting heat to maintain a temperature of 225 to 250°F until chicken is cooked through and skin is tender but not crisp or browned, about 20 minutes total. Transfer chicken with a wire mesh spider to a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels. Allow chicken to rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or cover and rest in the fridge for up to three nights. Proceed with Step 3.
Oven Method: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat oven to 225°F. Place oil and chicken wings in a large oven-safe Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it registers 200°F on an instant-read or deep-fry thermometer. Cover pot and transfer to oven. Cook until chicken wings are tender but not browned, 40 minutes to 1 hour (chicken should be tender but not falling apart). Remove pot from oven. Transfer chicken with a wire mesh spider to a rimmed baking sheet lined with paper towels. Allow chicken to rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour, or cover and rest in the fridge for up to three nights. Proceed with Step 3.
When ready to serve, combine butter and Frank's in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until butter is completely melted. Transfer to a large bowl. Heat oil to 400°F. Carefully add one third of chicken and cook, stirring and flipping chicken occasionally while adjusting heat to maintain a temperature of 375 to 400°F until golden brown and crisp, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to bowl with sauce, toss to coat, and serve with blue cheese and celery. Repeat with remaining batches, serving one batch at a time.

Guacamole with Fermented Chili Bean Paste

2012-01-17T16:29:38Z

J. Kenji López-Alt http://www.seriouseats.com

Ingredients

serves serves 8 as an appetizer, active time 15 minutes, total time 15 minutes

1 recipe Best Basic Guacamole
1 to 2 tablespoons Chinese fermented chili bean paste
6 scallions, finely sliced
2 teaspoons hot chili oil

Procedures

Combine guacamole with chili-bean paste to taste. Fold in scallions. Transfer to a serving bowl and drizzle with chili oil. Serve immediately with warm tortilla chips.