Sewing And Style Den

Mad About The Dress (Burda 5/2014)

2014-04-17T19:43:00.001+01:00

This issue is a keeper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Kasia Skirt

2014-04-12T15:29:00.000+01:00

Kick-started with the last project, my sewing life is revived. A couple of small adjustment, not really worth blogging separately about, yet, those make me very happy as finally, some of old ideas are coming to life, like adding a lining to my 2011 Up In The Air Coat. And more inspiration to tackle the mountain of fabrics waiting to be used. I could have been doing just that, but it looks I am not the only one with some creative energies flowing- my darling husband decided to re-paint the house today, so with the front door and the windows ( one in my workshop) wide open on a cool spring day, maybe sewing is not the best idea- easy to catch a cold, constantly changing and trying things on.

So I tuned to my good old friend- Internet- instead. Last week I was looking through my burdastyle account and saw a few free patterns that I saved, particularly funny was to realise their Kasia skirt was saved the whole 4 times! "If this is not a sign...." I thought and hit the print button.

But before making it, as causal, I love seeing the ready made versions, and gladly over 150 projects were available for scrutiny for me on the same site. So this is exactly what I am up to while my hubby is painting away (totally new colour, by the way, I am soooo excited, only took him 10 years :)

Here is my big problem with Kasia project on Burdastyle: the model they used looks like a streak of misery (sorry, chicken, you are gorgeous, but few of us have that lanky shape) So looking at this picture, realistically, you can be sure it will suit you if you have no curves and very very skinny.

Unfortunately, while looking at the finished projects, this is far from the reality. Burdastyle girls are mostly real shaped, quite often pear-shaped and apple-shaped and in general curvy enough, to be considered while modeling the patterns.

I am a true pear- much narrower shoulders width in comparison to the hips and larger than I would have hoped to have thighs. And don't judge by the pictures- my bones are tiny, but it does not mean that I could pull off wearing a tayto sack- the shape makes some styles look horrendous.

Ladies, do not ever listen to encouraging comment from your so called friends. If you feel something is wrong- probably it is. Seek highly trained stylist advice (Which can be available to you free in a good boutique. Those stylists know intuitively what works for your shape, especially with experience. I am currently marketing a Mother of the Bride Boutique where I see the girl working in the shop giving fantastic advice to women. Remember, in general these customers are older ladies, way past their perfect shapes. And no purchase necessary. Just make an excuse that you want to think about it, take all on board and run back to your sewing corner to make something fabulous!)

So Back to Burdastyle. Most of Kasia versions I found unflattering. This pattern, I think requires a quite narrow high waist, and a couple of certain tricks to make it a top class stylish number!

Here are my suggestions:

Reduce the gathering on the side panels, in fact maybe eliminate the gathering from the back parts altogether.
Use contrasting fabric, but not drastic, more tone-on-tone solution, with side panes in a darker shade.
Definitely extend the different colour all the way to the top!
Bright piping can work very very well, again bring it to the very top- it will make you look slimmer.
I think it looks best as a mini , or add a bit of flare and bring it to just below the knee ( a great wool version on the top right shot of the collage. To wear with knee-high skinny boots or socks and pumps like this brave seamstress

Well, after all this, I better made a stunning skirt. Well, I hope so. The fabric will play a crucial part- I think it must be quite soft. So I need to dig into my storage and see if there is anything suitable. Will keep you posted! Chiao!

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The Scarlet Pants

2014-04-06T18:22:00.002+01:00

This is the story of success and failure. After 1.5 years comes the first full project - The Perfect Pant #2, I will call them the Scarlet Pants.

For those who care: read about how this came to life in this morning post here.

Pattern: Self drafted "Perfect Pants" pattern

Size: approximately 36-38

Alterations: I took on about 3cm in the original back seam to allow for the sway back, this realy messed up the whole thing and almost at the end I had to lower the front waistband by 2cm towards the centre front to achieve an even line and the fit I was happy with. The finished waistline is a bit low, but overall I am very happy with the style.

Fabric: Red Bi-stretch gabardine. Surprisingly well suited for tight pants. Did not expect.

Time to complete: About 8 hours in total including all re-makes and alterations.

Sewing Process and Challenges: It was a relatively easy project. The main challenge was fitting the pattern once again to my ever-changing body. I am a very lazy sewer and I don't have patience for muslins, so as a rule every projects hits the wall at some point ( usually when I stop to think how well it is going this time) and I discover a horrendous error, that could have been easily corrected have I made the muslin first and altered the pattern.) This time is was finishing the pants and trying not to see the gap at the back and weird pulling on the front- all corrected by ripping the front waistband off the pants and lowering it by 2 cm towards the center front. Stupid, unforgivable impatience...

Another disaster- the buttonholes. So bad- I am NOT even going to photograph them- I swore by snap fasteners before, why was I so arrogant. ( When I was a kid in Estonia, we had a lot of Atelier's, so all you have to do is mark the places, bring the garment to the workshop- and voila! you had super professional buttonholes, snaps, covered belts, etc. - whatever you wanted for a very reasonable fee. Sometimes, I really wish for a Time Machine!)

And one more small thing- I blogged in the last post about Sandra Betsina's Flat Fly Zipper tutorial. One correction- a great tutorial, but I think I still would like to cover the zip from the inside- it does not feel very nice, especially that mine is a metal zipper.

Overall, I would mark myself a B for these pants. Very wearable, but there is definitely room for perfection. But after a year and a half of NO sewing.... not bad!

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Getting back into it

2014-04-06T12:23:00.001+01:00

Back in action and it feels great!

My last project, a peplum top, is dated August 2012. Wow... Actually, I am shocked! I thought it was about a year, but this is more than a year and a half for a completed project... and it is embarrassing.
I didn't completely abandon my workshop- a few things were fixed and re-vamped, but nothing worth writing home about. There has been a lot of changes on the job scene, my new business took a lot of energy, plus acute internet addiction does not leave much space for the real creation - this is a new danger a lot of us facing, but to actually realize how badly you might be affected is scary. (Read more here, if you think you might be too digitally distracted) The addiction is as strong as nicotine or drugs and a lot of changes has been made to claim my life back. Including getting back to my workshop.

It started with a little repair job. Remember The Perfect Pants? They were really perfect fit, until I had a terrible incident with my back and ended up loosing too much weight, so they were falling off me. But I loved them too much to let go ( or so I thought), so I reduced them a bit in the waist and hips and they were back in action.... until I recovered to my normal size. Here is the moral of the story- never judge your size straight after illness. Buy something in a smaller size you are for the recovery period- you will regret altering your perfect garment, and there is no way back.

Three times the Perfect Pants were in the "charity" pile and three times I pulled them back out, I just couldn't do it. Yesterday, I looked at them again and tried them on, and eurica! I thought of the way, which was so much easier than any other solution, and so obvious, but it just didn't occur to me. The waistband is sewn on so low, that when I took it off, the pants' legs fit quite well, so ALL I had to do is to construct a new waistband, the back part to be exact. The problem was that after 2 previous alteration the top of the back leg pieces were much lower than than in the front, so the waistband piece looks more like a yoke, and not a fancy one. But you know what? I can wear them again and this is what matters.

Then it made me think. I am on the ball already, why not use the energy and the inspiration to make another pair of Perfect Pants? Plus a little obsessive dream of owning a pair of red trousers, and out went the fabric ( a bi-stretch gabardine I used on back to the Seventies coat) and the Perfect Pants pattern was in action once again.

Alterations- I had to take in 1.5 cm at the centre back seam to allow for my sway back and completely reconstruct the waist band to allow for the change, but apart from that, so far so good.

Tutorials: Obviously after 1.5 years a lot of techniques are forgotten, and I am go delighted to shortlist the tutorials that are helping me on the way:

#1 An Easy Flat Fly Front Zipper from Sandra Betzina

I think my fly has never looked better. The fabric I am using is not very think and any thickness will make it bulge, so I didn't go by my own tutorial and this method turned out perfect! And took me probably 3-4 minutes, with the best looking fly curve to date!

Watch and bookmark it here: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3831/video-an-easy-flat-fly-front-zipper

#2 A waistband tutorial

From Thread Theory- a nice tutorial also covering belt loops: http://threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com/2013/08/24/day-7-the-waistband-and-belt-loops-jedediah-shorts-sew-along/

So I am off to finish the work and hopefully the finished project will be coming up shortly!

Exciting!!!!

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Burda Easy Fashion SS 2014

2014-03-16T18:45:00.003+00:00

I haven't sewn ANYTHING for ages, having only fixed a couple of things, my workshop became a storage space/laundry room, and it makes me feel very sad to see my sewing machine abandoned in the corner... Yet this new Burda Easy Fashion issue is one of those that bring inspiration back to one's life. Or so I hope. It would have been so easy 20 years ago, when internet access was so much more limited and so slow, it would not take over most of my life. Do you know that in China they now treat internet addiction as a disease, you can even go to rehab to try and break the nasty habit? Well. I see exactly, first hand, how this addiction stops me from doing a lot of things I want to do. This and the bloody weather, that makes the house feel so cold, it just freezes me (back to the screen). It is a catch 22, I think I need that kind of rehab! And so does the rest of my family...

Well here is what inspired me today:

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New Year's CLEARANCE- some great bargains

2013-12-29T16:25:00.001+00:00

What? First post since April and it is a sale???? Well. folks, yes! Been very busy working and literally no free time to spend with the family, let alone myself and my sewing workshop. Until now, and again clearance must pave the way to inspiration.

7 issues of Patrones Sewing Magazine

7 issues, I personally bought during my travels to Spain, including one for children. Never used, each includes up to 30 multisized sewing patterns (That's the total of whooping over 200 fashion sewing patterns.) Excellent magazine and stunning fashions. Cannot be bought in Ireland. Don't get me wrong- I love Patrones and have many more issues as downloadable pdf's, but some how these never got a chance, even though thee are very tempting patterns inside, that will be hard to let go, but as they haven't been used by now, I think it is time for them to make someone else happy.

€70 for 7 issues €7.50 extra to post to Ireland, €10.75 to UK/Europe and €17 everywhere else.

№ 317 Especial Vacaciones
№ 297 Fiesta
№ 308 Prendas Elegantes
№ 293 Especial Vacaciones
№ 303 Avance Verano
№ 295 Avance Otoño
№ 288 Niños

AutoCad For Apparel Industry by P.B. Miller

Phyllis Bell Miller is an assistant professor at Mississippi State University. She has twenty-eight years of experience in teaching courses including computer-aided design,visual design in dress, store layout and display, product quality analysis and apparel design and pattern making. Miller developed ApparelCAD, a totally integrated apparel design package for AutoCAD software, including custom menus, built-in patterns and new commands, and Display Shop, a 3D store layout and design applications package for AutoCAD.

A must have bible for Cad-assisted pattern drafting. All from software tools to pattern drafting techniques. Used- good condition, but looks a bit old from lying on the shelf for a while.

The asking price is €15 and as it is quite heavy, will cost €7.50 extra to post to Ireland, €10.75 to UK/Europe and €17 everywhere else.

If any of this is of interest, why not email me and we could arrange the sale?

I am also selling some fabrics, check out the listings on Adverts.ie (However, if you wish to get any of those email me using the link in this blog to see if it is available and what is the postage fee)

I really hope this clearance will get me started, I have a couple of things in mind and, hopefully, will be back on track one day. Still just wanted to say hello to everyone, and also thank those who migrated to following me on bloglovin also. It is nice to look at your blog after a few month absence and see 5 people in the live report reading through the past posts. And by the way, did you see the Burda 1/14 cover????? Best Burda style trend to date in my opinion in a good few years. Just when they stopped stocking it in my local bookstore! Isn't it ironic????

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Wardrobe Staples: Chanel Style Jacket

2013-04-14T14:07:00.001+01:00

‘The eternal can only last if it stays up to date at the same time. For this reason the jacket is eternal.’ Karl Lagerfeld on Chanel’s classic jacket.

Coco Chanel's original little black jacket, was inspired by the jacket worn by a male stuff at an Australian hotel in the 50's. Short, collarless, silk-lined and pocketed, it was designed to be a versatile, functional wardrobe staple, and has since been reinterpreted over and over by Karl Lagerfeld. Designed for ‘women who move’ as expressed by Chanel, it's a perfect mix of beauty and comfort, and its classic look makes it elegant and incredibly versatile. Regardless of the fabric, size, or design, Chanel style jackets are re-discovered each season, especially due to their ability to serve as the perfect accessory for all events.

There's almost no woman, whatever her age or size, that this boxy jacket won't suit. When shopping for the perfect Chanel style jacket, opt for the classic cropped style, as it is known to flatter all shapes. A longer cut can make you look frumpy and generally doesn't work with anything. For a fuller busted lady a slightly flared shape should do the trick.

When choosing the colour other than black or cream consider your complexion and age. Strong blues, mocha shades, or pastels will work well for most people. This jacket could be called the sartorial equivalent of the Mona Lisa; age cannot wither it!

Team it with a pair of your favourite trousers (whether they are straight cut, pencil or wide leg, Marlene Dietrich style - they will all work). Combine it with a chic white or black shirt and accessorise with a statement necklace. A Chanel style jacket will add a twist to most dresses, it doesn't have to be part of a complete suit. However, A-line or a simple sheath dress will almost always the best choice. Keep it simple, as the simplicity is the true genius behind this style.

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Burda 4/2013 picks

2013-03-19T15:46:00.003+00:00

Have you heard the expression "true love never dies"? Of course you have, and it is as true as the fact that a true addiction never dies either. No, I am not back sewing, and yes, this is another Burda picks post. In fact not the most interesting one, as Burda once again fails to impress this April. Plain lines are good as long as they are not too plain, I hardly found inspiration flicking through the preview photos.

Actually, I only looked at it as there over 50 people started following my blog on Bloglovin' in the last week without any explanation, as i was off the radar for so long.

One and only dress that I loved - once again not due to a fancy pattern, but a gorgeous neckline embellishment will hardly make me reach for my wallet. No wonder they used it as a cover shot- what else is there to showcase?

Here is my question, Burda editors, why encourage beginner level sewing so much? I grew up on the 90s and 00s issues full of interesting and often challenging cuts, that would require sharpening your sewing knowledge, and is developing your skill not the whole point of sewing these days (versus much easier shopping, huh?)

I am bored to my teeth looking at these patterns, please please please stop producing this low value issues, Burda team. Maybe you should hire back all those retired designers from the old days to guide you and possibly teach you about interesting and exciting pattern designs?

What is going on? I need inspiration to go back and dig into the pile of fabric cuts that have been untouched for so many months. I have nothing to wear and mot much that fits- perfect scenario to lock myself in my sewing room.... yet, no. Your issue makes me want to go shopping cheep and cheerful dresses from China on ebay.com

And as much as I love Cinema Paradiso, I doubt I will be sewing any of those outfits anytime soon (or hopefully ever)

I am not really picking on you, Burda, but my loyalty is going through some serious turbulence right now. There is nothing to pick. Again.

And Joanna Lumley has nothing to do with it - I just found think she looked HOTTER in that naff 80's shot than anything from Burda April's issue!

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Burda Style February 2013 picks

2013-01-06T13:26:00.001+00:00

Happy New Year everyone! Long time no hear... I personally hate blog posts starting like this. "Yeah yeah yeah", I always think, "just get down to business, nobody cares that you had no time to blog- in fact, you better get your act together..." etc., etc.... Well last year I was the one neglecting my blog, and there is nothing I could do about it. There were dry spells when nothing inspired me for months, followed by the busiest period in years resulting in me starting my own marketing agency, called EZ Marketing and consequently a marketing blog. (All this fashion and before that music involvement made me quite an expert in social media marketing - so it is time to get paid for it!)

On the low note I had a nerve pinched in my back early in December, which affected my sciatica condition and I spend weeks in agony and couldn't go back to work (still struggling, to be honest) - a horrible time, I hope to forget some day. Christmas was very tight as a result and I was very happy to see the year ending, staring the new one with hopes of success and better health. I couldn't eat when I was sick as a side effect of all the meds and my weight dropped to jaw-dropping 45kg. I am a very small framed person and my weight at the age of 19 was 47kg, so this is not that bad, I suppose. But all my clothes ( especially the bottoms) are huge and I seriously need to get back sewing.

So this is what happened in 2012. I am still extremely busy with the new business- social media is very time consuming. And the amount of research you need to do, plus keeping up with ever changing Facebook rules and algorithms. It is not as simple as it seems.

But for now, as a taster, I have a few picks from upcoming February Burda style magazine - and as much as I didn't really like anything in particular, I was stunned by the exclusive design pick:

and that is why I will be buying this issue.

And then, who knows, maybe I will find other patterns useful too, at the end of the day- there is a crisis in my wardrobe :)

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December 2012 Burda Style picks

2012-11-02T14:54:00.003+00:00

The last issue of the year from Burda Style magazine, in my opinion, is finally worth buying.

Lovely models, young and funky looking, yet with a classic timeless twist. Just what I always look for in clothes. And as for plus section- I think it is a real treat this time.

Lots of wintery models made for lodens and flannels- that pale blue jumper is absolutely fabulous and looks so cosy!

As for the evening wear, strict plain lines and luxury fabrics - perfect combination!

So here we are- the silent post- this time silence with admiration!

what do you think of that?

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November Burda Style Picks

2012-10-05T15:17:00.001+01:00

I am so sorry, Burda team,I am really trying. I do look up the upcoming issues all the time, but these are just same uninspiring, way too plain and repetitive ideas.

Autumn 2012 wardrobe essentials (sewing Burda)

2012-10-01T18:15:00.003+01:00

October is here and the fact that the Autumn is here is as solid as it gets. There is no illusions, they were all taken away by this pandemic flu all of us suffering from over here in the South of Ireland. So it is time to look over the wardrobe and make sure it has all the autumn essentials.

So, voila, here is my guide to a handful of must have items for this autumn and some Burda patterns suggestions too.

1. Turtleneck ( in white or black)

2. Fitted Jacket

Burda 9/2012

3. Little Black Dress

Burda 9/2012

4. Pencil Skirt

Burda 01/2011

5. White Shirt

Burda 05/2012

6. Coat

Burda 9/2012

The other non-sew items must include:

a cosy cashemere pullover

Knitted Cardigan (give it a go yourself)

High heel leather boots

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Burda 10/2012 picks

2012-09-03T19:47:00.001+01:00

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Burda Easy Fashion 2012 A/W issue

2012-08-23T10:57:00.000+01:00

They don't sell it here in Ireland, but I am determined to get my hands on this issue, somehow! It is not out for another month, so I am going to have to wait.

Here's why I love it:

Can you buy Burda Easy Fashion in your country?

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September Burda Style Inspirations

2012-08-22T15:57:00.000+01:00

Just back from the bookstore with the new, Setember, Burda magazine and I am looking at "All Styles at a Glance page". A couple of items caught my eye instantly and I am very tempted to start tracing the patterns straight away too- very exciting!!!!

Of course, this year has been an interesting one, changing my whole attitude towards commercial and all other patterns, for that matter. I have dipped my toes into drafting my own patterns too, fitting techniques and approaches i have never explored before. As one stage I was convinced my Burda Style addiction is the thing of the past (well, the addiction part might actually be over, but I still use it and will in the foreseeable future). I then realized that the amount of fitting self-drafted pattern for a satisfactory result might even be even more time-consuming than in case of using a commercial pattern, and therefore neither is a perfect solution. In fact, I found the key to the best fit is this:

and I fully intend to be using this magic tool in my dressmaking adventures to it's full potential.

Back to September issue. There are three models I have preliminary chosen for my A/W wardrobe sewing. The first (left to right), jacket 132 is quite a challenge, but it is exactly the type of jacket I have been thinking of to wear with my recent Breaking The Spell peplum top . Cropped front to show of the peplum is perfect, yet the back is long enough to flatten the peplums bonnet. And, of course, it will look good style as it is suggested by the editors too- skinny jeans, basic pullover and heels.

Speaking of pullovers, let's move on to the pick number two- very basic cowl neck top. Very flattering draping on one side and the bottom of the sleeves, dead easy to make- a couple of hours job, really.

The third pick, on the right, is another pullover. I call it an Audrey top (even though there are obvious design deviations from the famous grey Holly's pullover in "Breakfast at Tiffany's", I just can't help but thinking of her when I look at this model). It will need a very soft and voluminous type of fabric, something like suggested wool velour or a really thick fleece. Warm and cosy is the key. and also it has a lovely v-neck at the back, which is not obvious on photos of any of the versions. (Again, a message to the photographers and editors of Burda, what a disappointment- if you create a model with an interesting detail, why not emphasize it in your photo showcase? Makes no sense!)

And now, let's move on to my favoutite photo of the issue, a beautifully structured little black dress, worn with a micro bolero jacket. Very futuristic! Is it for me? The style is definitely my cup of tea- I love everything sharp and clean, but the bodycon shape wouldn't be the best for me, so this one will stay with me purelly in my dreams. Sigh!

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The making of a peplum top: pattern review

2012-08-20T19:06:00.003+01:00

Pattern: Peplum top Burda 8/2012 113-114

Size: 34

Alterations: omitted the sleeves, finished armholes with bias stripes; added satin binding to the neckline instead of finishing with facing. Pattern correction - fitting the shoulder line.

Fabric: sheer crepe (I think) it is not too slippery, does not fray too much either and was easy to work with. I had about 1.2m 115cm wide originally, and there is still some (about a fat quarter) fabric left to be used as a nice detail somewhere.

Time to complete: about 4-5 hours from tracing the pattern to a finished garment

Sewing Process and Challenges: I found this pattern to be very easy to sew, the instructions were quite good and I had absolutely no issues during the process.

I liked the fact that inserting the invisible zip was suggested before sewing up the shoulder and side seams, it makes perfect sense and so much handier to do.

As my fabric was very light, I interfaced the centre back seams before sewing with a stay tape:

As the fabric doesn't really fray too much, I trimmed it to the edge of the interfacing tape:

Then I sew the invisible zipper following a tutorial- Invisible zipper insertion from pattern~scissors~cloth

The result is a very neat invisible zipper- and so easy. Is it even there?

after machine basting the shoulders and the sides, the first fitting was quite satisfactory, the only adjustment was lowering the shoulder line at the armholes. As I decided not to sew sleeves for this version, all I had to do is to pin the excess and sew a new seam accordingly:

Hemming this top was a dream- unlike chiffons and silks, this fabric was very easy to press and it was not slippery at all to sew. So I presses the hem allowance to the inside and ran a row of straight stitches a few millimeters from the edge.

Then I simply cut the allowance excess close to the hem:

I wanted to add something different to the top and when the white satin bias tape caught my eye, I knew this was the answer! To prepare the bias tape, i always stretch it with a hot steamy iron. ( A handy tip is to pin the edge of the tape to the ironing board cover…

and then pull the tape and stretch it to the maximum, running a steamy iron over it (see how much more narrow it becomes? I also press a curve into it, to help hold the curvy shape:

I loved the contract between the main fabric and the white satin:

I then stay stitched the collar and armholes and then applied the bias tape to the neckline. At first, i wanted to decorate the armholes the same way too, but later i decided that less is definitely more in this case and simply used bias stripes of the main fabric to finish the sleeves.

The result is my new top: I love it paired with narrow trousers and very very very high heels!
For larger images, please read my previous post: I'm Back On Track

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I am back on track!

2012-08-18T16:55:00.002+01:00

It has finally happened- I am sewing again!!!!!!

Firstly, I would like to thank everyone who were so supportive helping me get through the dry spell in sewing. Thank you! And- it worked in the most unexpected way.

Oonabaloona advised me to cut my favourite fabric, and so I did. Here it is, a sheer crepe with a light velvety animal print. I have to admit, I was terrified to cut this piece for ages, two years to be exact. I was afraid it will be a nightmare to work with and also was not sure of the best pattern.

20 seconds of extreme insanity and I decided to make a so-often-mentioned-on-this-blog peplum top. My first attempt (THAT self-drafted pattern) was disappointing, and I was seriously considering ditching the whole idea, but I love this trend, and it would kill me not to try once more!

August Burda style magazine was staring at me for days, with a lovely yellow peplum top on the cover. And it won, I traced the pattern and cut the fabric. Two weeks later, I got up early and locked myself in my workshop- and voila!!!!

I cut size 34, omitted the sleeves and added a satin binding around the neckline- very cute detail, I think. The pattern was extremely easy to use, and I am quite happy with the shape.

pardon the visible bra- it is supposed to be nude, but I have been tanning like crasy recently, so it looks very pale on me! LOL!

It looks very retro at the back too- I am loving the shape, what do you call that in English again? Like something from the early 20th century… I think.

Read the full review post here (with a few behind the scenes photos) !

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Breaking the Ice

2012-08-17T15:47:00.001+01:00

I am a worrier.

I mean, I worry a lot and very easily, in spite projecting an image of a rather confident individual, according to some of my readers. So lately I have been worrying a lot about totally neglecting my blog. It is a very upsetting issue for me- first I felt no inspiration at all for weeks, and I wrote about it (by the way, thank you all so much for the support!) and when the inspiration came back, so did my recent promotion in work- I have been so busy, there is simply no time to enter the den…

So I am checking in to say, I am trying very hard to get back on sewing track. I took Oonabaloona's advice how to approach my sewing apathy and cut the prettiest fabric I had for a while, and was terrified to get working with (mostly, I was afraid to make a wrong choice of pattern). So I did it and my choice fell on a peplum top from the cover of August Burda magazine:

It is done: the fabric is cut, and both the sewing machine and the overlock are threaded and tuned. Now it is up to me to find some free time (thank God, the football season starts soon, so I will get much more time to do my stuff)!!!!

Stay tuned, I hope the finish project coming up soon!

I have also found a very beautiful dress, that I would like to try and replicate sometimes- a grey wool blend 'Bizia Milano' dress from JOSEPH featuring a round neck, no sleeves, a front waterfall ruffle detail, a concealed zip fastening at the back and a short ruffle hem. I am not sure if I have any suitable fabrics in my stash for it, but I think it is absolutely adorable!

And lastly, my eye was caught by this Lena Hoshek Donna skirt:

It has a very interesting construction- basically, it is a full skirt with a ruffled hem, that is draped to the back and secured in place with the help of loops in side seams and a button below the centre back zipper. Very rockabilly, and it is taking Russian sewing world by storm, here is a version from Julia, from Sewing Galaxy, she has a detailed post on her blog too, but it is in German (she is a Russian living in Germany), so use Google Translator if you are interested!

I like the skirt, but the fabric choice must be very seriously thought through, as it might end up massive at the back. Loving Julia's version though!!!

©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

Burda Style September 2012 picks

2012-08-03T00:03:00.000+01:00

Last month I received a message on Facebook, from an online editor of Burda style Magazine, inquiring where I got all those pictures for the previews. Apparently, I had more of them than their own website previews…

Well, I honestly acquired all of them on their site. In fact, it is strange that they would upload so many photographs, if they only want some of them to be actually seen to the public. I used a little trick to check for images- nothing illegal, but I don't think it was appreciated.

This months, I am afraid, my luck ran out, they changed something on their site and I can only get as much as anyone else, who looks at the German site.

So here are my few picks from the 17 models they showcase:

I really love the 60s feel of this coat

Timeless classic!

The right choice of fabric will turn a simple dress into a couture piece!

This purple top reminds me of Audrey's grey pullover ( "Breakfast at Tiffany's")

The shirt is not the key- it is all about the accessories ( loving the gloves)

I love this dress- reminds me of my Matrix dress, which is now given away, but… it is time for another one?

Can't do wrong with an empire waist dress- especially with black details- very chique!

My verdict for the September issue… don't know really. I will have to check out the technical drawing page before deciding on buying, but it looks ok to me so far! Here is the September's exclusive design number:

Urgent Appeal - inspiration needed!

2012-08-01T17:34:00.000+01:00

First day of the new month and I am determined to start fighting a complete lack of inspiration and creativity ever since I came back from Spain. A friend asked me to shorten a pair of slacks and I couldn't even force myself to do THAT- a mere 3 minutes job. How BAD is that! DISASTER, as far as I am concerned.

And it is not because my wardrobe is complete- there are a few gaps need to be filled there, not because there are no fabrics- I have stacks and stacks waiting for their turn to be used. I just cannot even find the way to start approaching this creative block.

While in Spain I bought the current issue of Patrones, and today I got myself the August Burda issue too (this is the first one in a long long time, that in spite of publishing the preview, I actually bought!), I also received my sample subscription issues of Diana Moden (Simplicity edition that means it includes 30 Simplicity models) and Russian magazine ШиК which publishes La Mia Boutique models. Speaking of which, my cousin posted me June's La Mia Boutique which included the March issue as a bonus too! Wow! Not exactly "nothing to choose from" - and this is only the recent aquisitions. So really there is no excuse for my condition. Yet it is there and the inspiration is not…

I think I would love to hear from you, my lovely readers. I would love to know if you go through these kind of stages in your sewing life and how do you cope or deal with them? It there a magic potion that you take and the next morning you are filled with creativity? I guess not, but I would love to read your stories! I guess, I really need you right now!

With Love

Juliette

©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den

A Little Bit of Heaven

2012-07-24T13:32:00.003+01:00

Being back in Ireland after a whole nine days in sunny Mallorca is not just hard... It is absolutely unbearable!!!! Everything around looks like it is painted a shade of gray, it is rainy, gloomy, sore and uninspiring. The holiday seems like a dream already, and it has only been a few days…

Mallorca for me is the ultimate place on earth that ticks all the necessary boxes.

It is a STUNNING island, we toured almost all of the island on a motorbike, and even though it is not the first time, we've seen so many amazing spots and unforgettable views, you will have to tour the whole of mainland Mediterania for days to finds similar views, but in Mallorca they are all just around the corner from each other- it is a Med in a nutshell with a hint of Caribbean too!!! Just look at those colours...

And the FOOD is SUBLIME (anything made here can be the best you can get- whether is is Spanish, Italian or Japanese for that matter. This is a gourmand's heaven!!!) and the variety of drinks is breathtaking…

The middle shot is a spring lamb, the speciality of Deia, a cute mountain village in the north of the island. Cooked to perfection, being such a cliche, describes precisely what you should expect. Visit Xelini Restaurante for best experience. Andrew Lloyd Webber and Michael Douglas had a right idea making this their home place, as the quality of food, together with amazing location is simply hard to beat.

The best place for coccinillo asado (succulent baby pig) proved to be in Meson C'an Torrat in Calvia. Everything on the plate came from their own farm, and the colour and taste of the pork crackling was the best I have ever experienced.
Not to mention grilled asparagus with a sprinkle of sea salt for a starter, and home grown melon for fruta del dia. Bliss!

To my absolute delight and surprise Japanese sushi of all things seem to have really become a hit in Mallorka since 2010, when I was there last. Whether a California Roll, or Tuna Sashimi- expect superb quality and heavenly presentation too. And it was great to see sushi bars in every indoor market too. And while we are on the subject of indoor markets, oyster bars too!

In terms of fabric shopping, Mallorca is not too far from Ireland though, I regret to say. There were a few fabric shops in Palma I came across and a few markets down the country, but the fabric choice was quite unimpressive- nothing you will see in the UK or United States stores. Fabrics are mostly for interior design than dressmaking too. I admit to find it very disappointing, considering I would love to live in Mallorca one day, but I suppose online shopping will have to work for me over there too ))))

But so far, I am back trying to settle in, sad and missing my dream homeland already….

A few thoughts for the future:

Must start exercising - after piling on 5 pound after all that good food, I definitely flaunted too much fat thighs around that water park on the last day. )))
Pack less rather than more for your holidays, when it comes to outfits, I ended up with a few I haven't worn once.
Suncream with a high factor a must for motorbiking trips- my knees and tops of my lower arms got really burnt during the trip.
Alcohol has a different effect in the heat, and also Spanish do not skimp on the pouring side. Must watch the drink intake, even if it is so delicious, like Palo? Is it nice to be drunk too much too early and spend the later part of the night hanging over every day? Not for me, thanks.

Sunshine Award Nominations

2012-07-16T00:00:00.000+01:00

This is another Award Sewing and Style Den has been nominated by Sassy T. from A Dressmaking Journey.

Sunshine Award T&C's:

1. Thank the person(s) who gave you the award.
2. Answer 10 questions.
3. Pass the award on to 10-12ish sunshine-worthy bloggers.

So here are my 10 questions answered for you:

1. Favourite animal
I have to say dogs. Since I adopted my Staffordshire Bullterrier, Harry, I think this particular breed of dogs is amazing and so unique. I have never met a dog with so much love for humans and tenderness. And their bad reputation is just so unjustified. Every dog can be trained to be aggressive, and staffies are so devoted and eager to please their owner, they will be aggressive if you want them too. My Harry has not a single violent bone in his body, he never even fights back. Ever. All he wants is to be beside you,(wherether is means beside, under, over on your head- anywhere will do) He just wants love, and he gives love back- amazing little fellow

2. Favourite number: 5 (don't ask why, just 5)

3. Favourite non-alcoholic drink: Freshly squeezed Orange Juice in Spain in November ( the oranges are not too ripe and the juice tastes amazing. Best place for that kind of juice- Malaga Airport!!!)

4. Facebook or Twitter: Facebook, although I am only using it for sewing/blogging updates, I am not a FB socialite

5. My passion: Dressmaking, Fashion, Music, Photography, Internet

6. Getting or giving presents: Getting, not because I am a user, I am always very chuffed and grateful, but I think I am not great at choosing/presenting gifts

7. Favourite Pattern: (very unfair question) I don't really have one. Especially since starting to design my own.

8. Favourite day of the week: Used to be Friday, but now I work all weekend and my first day off is Monday, so let it be Monday!

9. Favourite flower: A Rose

10. Favourite celebrity role model: Role Model is a heavy term, I would say Inspiration. Can't even name Audrey here- she is every one's role model, and I love her eternally, but I hate cliches so I will go for Jennifer Anniston. I love her style, she is a great actress and comes across as such a nice person. She is definitely my inspiration when I hit my 40s.

And, finally, my 10 Sunshine Awards Nominations:

Liebster Blog Award nominations

2012-07-09T17:24:00.002+01:00

This is the first time Sewing and Style Den has received an acknowledgment in a form of award, and with my warmest thanks to Sassy T. from A Dressmaking Journey this blog is nominated for two at once: Sunshine Award and Liebster Blog!

This blog is very dear to me and I appreciate every follower's reading time and every tiny comment. I always make sure I reply back, I long to interact with likem inded people and this way seems to be the only way for me as my hobby is not very widely popular in Ireland, and I actually do not personally know any dressmakers around my town at all!!! So again- Thank You!!!

Sassy T. is a newbie in the word of blogging, but I think she is on the right track, I loved reading through her fashion guide articles. Keep it up, Tina- you're fabulous!

Now the Awards. Today I will do only the Liebster Nomination. And the Sunshine one will be in my next post- it is a much larger post (stay with me - it should be fun)

Most of my readers know these Awards and they do come with the set of conditions to follow, which I am glad to display below

Liebster Blog Award T&C's:1 Thank your Liebster Blog Award presenter on your blog.2 Link back to the blogger who presented the award to you.3 Copy/paste the blog award on your blog.4 Present the Liebster Blog Award to 5 blogs (with 200 followers or less).5 Let them know they have been chosen by leaving a comment.

HERE ARE MY 5 LIEBSTER BLOG NOMINATIONS:

1. Oonabaloona

2. My Handmadehappiness

3. ::paunnet::

4. House of Pinheiro

5. Mania Du Soleil (Russian blog)

My Mother's Gift

2012-07-07T10:45:00.002+01:00

Ever since I was a little girl, I remember all women in my family sewing, knittings, crocheting and cross-stitching. My mom, Elsa, always joked about one day retiring and making it in cross-stitching world.

She is 71 now and here is what her retirement has brought to life:

Each of these cross-stiched pictures has taken her up to 4 months to complete.

All this work is for sale, however, I should get her to open an Etsy shop- I am sure these pictures worth buying.

There is much more photos on her Facebook Page- please have a look.

I am so eternally proud of my mom, isn't she a darling?

at the sweet age of 19

Burda Style August picks

2012-06-30T00:26:00.002+01:00

I said it before, and I am saying this once again, Burda has been pulling it off with stunning photographs and no really valuable content for most of the issues this year. Each time, I love the preview, but when I pick up the magazine in the book shop- the pattern technical drawings reveal quite a boring, uninspiring picture. I don't appreciate baggy dresses and shapeless tops. I want fitted cute ones and the ones, that may be a little challenging to make, but so much more rewarding to wear.

I wanted to make a top for my biking trip, but the closest one to what I'd like was from the 2008 issue- bit too far back, isn't it? I am glad ( at this occasion) to have all those stacks of older Burda magazines in my wardrobe.

I think I finally will be buying the new, 8/2012 Burda style issue. It is not only offering stunning photographs, but also some interesting styles and patterns too. Here are a few of my favourites, there is also much more on my Facebook page (link at the end of the post):

nice neckline

simple but stunning

very cool

amazing on taller girls

absolutely beautiful

More images on Sewing and Style Den's Facebook Page
(disclaimer- all images are obtained from German Burda Style website and copyright protected. I am a mere fan, promoting the magazine)

©2012 copyright Sewing And Style.
All rights reserved.
All images and copied text must have a link back or reference to Sewing and Style Den