Informative Sherpa Portal

Everest 2021: Video Interview with Mark Pattison & Jim Mora

2021-03-11T15:31:00.001-08:00

Mark Pattison aims to be the first ex-NFL player to summit both Everest and Lhotse in 24-hours. I interview Mark and longtime NFL coach, and Mark's training partner for Everest 2021. We cover how training for Everest compared to the NFL, team dynamics, mental toughness, and more.

The post Everest 2021: Video Interview with Mark Pattison & Jim Mora first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Everest 2021: Welcome to Everest 2021 Coverage

2021-03-01T08:31:00.001-08:00

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2021 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2021 and actively covered the 2020/21 Winter K2 season so let me officially welcome you. This season will be my 18th season of all-things Everest: 12 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

The post Everest 2021: Welcome to Everest 2021 Coverage first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Everest 2021: Team Locations and Headlines

2021-02-28T12:31:00.001-08:00

Welcome to the 2021 edition of Alan Arnette's annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It's based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.

The post Everest 2021: Team Locations and Headlines first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter Manaslu Update: Poor Weather

2021-02-22T09:31:00.001-08:00

Climbing 8000-meters peaks in winter takes a toll on climbers and teams. The Manaslu team has seen another climber quit due to weather conditions. The Laila Peak Polish team in Pakistan has given up, and sadly the missing three on K2 have been officially declared dead.

The post Winter Manaslu Update: Poor Weather first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Everest 2021: Special Edition – Video Interview with Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking

2021-02-18T10:31:00.001-08:00

As I covered in a recent post, Everest 2021 is coming on soon. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. A few have canceled their Everest '21 but many, including Asian Trekking, are moving forward with confidence. Early reports suggest Nepal could issue well over 300 foreigner permits, high but under the record 382 in 2019. Also, it appears that COVD is slowing in Nepal with over one third of the population already vaccinated.

The post Everest 2021: Special Edition – Video Interview with Dawa Steven Sherpa, Asian Trekking first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Search Update

2021-02-17T10:31:00.001-08:00

First, Happy Losar 2148 to my Sherpa friends. The Seven Summits Treks K2 team is back in Islamabad or already home. The 2020/21 Winter K2 season has ended leaving three climbers on the mountain, and two, their bodies, transported back to Islamabad and eventually home.

The post Winter K2 Update: Search Update first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Everest 2021: Special Edition – Video Interview with Mark Gunlogson, Mountain Madness

2021-02-12T11:31:00.001-08:00

As I covered in a recent post, Everest 2021 is coming on soon. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Mark Gunlogson, Mountain Madness who has canceled his expedition from the Nepal side this spring. They are running a fundraiser with partners who will provide matching funds to support vaccinations in Nepal. We also explore MM's other trips around the world.

The post Everest 2021: Special Edition – Video Interview with Mark Gunlogson, Mountain Madness first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2021 Edition

2021-02-10T22:31:00.001-08:00

Many people ask, "How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?" For the past nine years, I've tried to answer this with a rather lengthy post outlining all the costs and options. This is the 2021 edition. With the COVID Pandemic devastating tourism across the globe, I expect '21 to be somewhat quiet. In fact China has closed Tibet to all foreigners. There may be some Chinese nationals climbing, but I don't expect a lot.

The post How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? – 2021 Edition first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Team Leaving Base Camp, Search Suspended

2021-02-09T08:31:00.001-08:00

Seven Summits Treks is leaving K2 Base Camp, thus ending their effort for a winter summit. The strongest climbers on their team gave it their best effort but no one summited the world's second highest peak. Tragically two died in their effort. By my approximate count, 14 of the 20 "members" made an attempt.

The post Winter K2 Update: Team Leaving Base Camp, Search Suspended first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #8

2021-02-07T15:31:00.001-08:00

Latest as of 3.30 am, Monday, February 8, 2021, - K2 Time: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto remain missing with no trace. We are learning more about what happened at the Bottleneck directly from Ali's son, Sajid. Of note he said he and his father were climbing without supplemental oxygen but had a bottle in their pack for emergencies. Also when he left the three, they had no radio or sat phone. He felt they summited and had an accident on the descent in the Bottleneck, but he is not sure. In this post, timeline of the season and events.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #8 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #7

2021-02-06T14:31:00.001-08:00

Sajid Ali Sadpara is back in Base Camp. He is one strong individual. A helicopter did a cursory search but didn't get very high and found no trace of the climbers. History has shown amazing high-altitude bivy's. A brief review of some, including on K2.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #7 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #6

2021-02-05T22:31:00.001-08:00

Latest as of 10:30 am, February 6, 2021.

First it's reported that Sajid Ali Sadpara is descending from Camp 3. That Pemba Sherpa who was with Noel Hanna stayed at Camp 1 and will help him down. Also that a Pakistani military helicopter will take sherpas high on K2, exact height unknown, to launch a search party for the missing three.

They left Camp 3 for their summit push almost 30 hours earlier. They were last seen over 15 hours ago. It's 3 am Saturday morning, February 6, 2021. The first rays of dawn will hit the shoulder in about three hours. Note that none of the GPS trackers seem to be working anymore. I assume their batteries have run out, perhaps also for their headlamps and even radios. Computer generated weather forecast have the summit temps at -42F/-41C with a wind chill at -80F/-62C.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #6 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #5

2021-02-05T15:31:00.001-08:00

Upfront, there is no 100% confirmed news about: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo (JP) Mohr Prieto. JP was climbing without supplemental oxygen. There is no conformation if they summited, their current status or plans. I'll update when I have 100% confident news.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #5 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #4

2021-02-05T09:31:00.001-08:00

And it's over, but we still don't know the ending. There is still no news from three climbers assumed to be descending at this point, almost 10 pm Friday night K2 time: John Snorri, Ali Sadpara, and Juan Pablo Mohr. They left Camp 3 almost 24 hours earlier. Sadly, another death on K2, this makes two now.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #4 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #3

2021-02-04T21:31:00.001-08:00

Looks like none of the Seven Summits Treks members made the K2 summit. Snorri and team remain the only viable team for K2's winter summit, but it's very unclear as to their status. Winds moving in 24 hours from now.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #3 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #2

2021-02-04T17:31:00.001-08:00

The "Fog of Climbing" Sometimes getting precise information is difficult. John Snorri's wife now tells me John is nearing the summit and is at 8100-meters, only 500-meters from the summit. However, she is going off the data from the tracker. His GPS track is crisscrossing above Camp 3. This happens occasionally with these trackers. We do know for sure several climbers have turned back and other seem to be not moving from Camp 3. The "fog" should clear in a few hours

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #2 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #1

2021-02-04T14:31:00.001-08:00

Climbers have left Camp 3 for their summit bid, half have already turned back due to the cold and fear of frostbite. The weather window has narrowed, now higher winds moving to K2 early Saturday morning, around dawn, basically 30 hours from the time of this post. They need to get up and down now, or turn back. The wind chill near the summit is -70F/-57C. There are 10 or less still pushing for the summit.

The post Winter K2 Update: Summit Push Update #1 first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Medical Evacuation, Climbers Start Summit Push

2021-02-04T10:31:00.001-08:00

The few climbers who have made it high on K2 have started their summit push, late Thursday night K2 time. Another medical evacuation from K2 Base Camp, this makes three this season. Climbers are nearing the summit as the winds return on Saturday. 20+ people still on the summit push, more than a usual summer season - the power of commercialization.

The post Winter K2 Update: Medical Evacuation, Climbers Start Summit Push first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Climbers Retreating, others Proceeding Higher

2021-02-03T10:31:00.001-08:00

This round of almost 30 K2 climbers are split between Camps 1, 2 and 3 all aiming for a summit attempt on Friday but 7 climbers returned to BC leaving 21 still on the push. Winds are staying under 20 mph. Rockfall is taking it's toll. Winds are forecasted to return around noon on Saturday.

The post Winter K2 Update: Climbers Retreating, others Proceeding Higher first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Headed Higher

2021-02-02T10:31:00.001-08:00

This round of 22+ K2 climbers have some at Camp 1, around 20,000-feet, others leaving Wednesday morning, all aiming for a summit attempt on Friday. Long range forecast suggest another window late next week but too early to call.

The post Winter K2 Update: Headed Higher first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Threading the Needle

2021-02-01T17:31:00.001-08:00

K2 Sherpas and climbers have left for their summit bid. There is a window emerging centered on February 4 and 5 ending late Saturday. I'm anticipating 20 to 30 people on this push (members and Sherpas/Pakistanis) with a 40% summit rate if the weather holds.

The post Winter K2 Update: Threading the Needle first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: And They’re Off! (again)

2021-02-01T11:31:00.001-08:00

K2 Sherpas and climbers have left for their summit bid. There is a window emerging centered on February Feb 4 and 5 ending this weekend. This may be the time to go.

The post Winter K2 Update: And They’re Off! (again) first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update:No Manaslu Visitors

2021-01-31T20:31:00.001-08:00

Rumors have been swirling that some of the K2 summiteers are joining forces with the Manaslu team. We now have two of the K2-Ten saying no, absolutely no.

The post Winter K2 Update:No Manaslu Visitors first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Chat with Snorri & Manaslu Progress

2021-01-30T08:31:00.001-08:00

K2 climbers continue to stay at Base Camp stalled by the weather but Feb 4 and 5 are looking better. I chat with John Snorri at K2 BC and route progress on Manaslu.

The post Winter K2 Update: Chat with Snorri & Manaslu Progress first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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Winter K2 Update: Manaslu Challenges

2021-01-29T09:31:00.001-08:00

K2 climbers continue to stay at Base Camp stalled by the weather meanwhile the five or so climbers on Nepal's Manaslu found a huge open crevasse that will require route-finding skills to navigate. Some of the Nepali K2 10 will join the Manaslu effort.

The post Winter K2 Update: Manaslu Challenges first appeared on The Blog on alanarnette.com.

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