Siena is Tuscany

Strolling the streets of Siena

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 14:11:00 +0000

In the fall of 2005 Susan and I lived in a small apartment in the Torre contrada just off the Pizza del Campo in Siena, Italy.

We spent our days meandering the side-streets and back-alleys of this medieval walled city, wrapped in stone, protected from the cares of the world while we figured out what to do with the rest of our lives. I'd like to share a few moments of that very special time with you:

Perspectives - Siena and San Galgano

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 20:39:00 +0000

San Gimignano

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 20:38:00 +0000

Sanctuary-Sanctuario

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 20:37:00 +0000

Torre di Mangia

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:33:00 +0000

I see the end in the beginning. Climb the tower and feel the years blow past your face and your heart stops cold.

The Hills of Central Tuscany

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 20:30:00 +0000

Timeless. Primeval. These spaces take us back to the dark beginnings of western civilization -- go and go now.

The way life is meant to be spent in Siena

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:31:00 +0000

Aimoine's wife Moreena, enjoying lunch and life one should think:

Reasons no. 942,485 and 942,486 for visiting Siena

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 10:28:00 +0000

Alessandra and la piccola Costanza outside of Aimone's "Cantina" on via Stalloreggi:

Siena Panorama

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 11:18:00 +0000

Back to Siena in April of 2009

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 17:01:00 +0000

(photo: view looking southward from the garden of the Hotel Santa Caterina)

My wife and I just missed the celebration for Liberation Day in Italy: April 25. Which also happens to be my birthday but that's another story. Anyway, a few updates on the city that rests more or less at the center of the known universe.

Lisa is moving her English-language bookshop from Via San Pietro to inside her husband's hotel the Palazzo Rivera. The hotel closed it's (very good) restaurant and had the space available and in these trying economic times the move made sense.

Two bits of good news: both Boccon del Prete and Osteria Castelveccio are still open and still serving delicious food at good prices. Also the service is friendly and the spaces enjoyable.

Boccon del Prete
via San Pietro 17
Siena
phone: 0577 280 388

Osteria Castelvecchio
via Castelvecchio 65
Siena 53100

We stayed at the Hotel Santa Caterina, just outside of the Porta Romana, at 7 via Piccolomini. The hotel was recommended by a friend, Roberto Bechi and we can easily see why. The breakfasts (included in the price) are perfect, with delicious caffe and pastries from nearby Peccati di Gola, one of the city's best pastry shops. The rooms have all been recently refurbished (the hotel moved up from a 2- to a 3-star rating) and the service is attentive and helpful. The garden overlooks southern Tuscany and is a perfect place to relax and get away from the bustle of the city or after an day of traversing the countryside looking for just the perfect view of Tuscany. Parking is an additional charge but worth tucking your car away for a couple of days so you can explore this wonderful city on foot.

The two lunches we had in the city were average at best and generally disappointing: Ristorante Vitti on via Montanini and Permalico on Costa Larga.

Both of us thought the gelato at our favorite spot just off the Pizza del Campo on via di Citta was somehow softer and the flavors more diffuse.

Caffe Fiorello, also on via di Citta is still serving some of the best caffe in the city center -- and say hi to Alicia, the blonde who is always there, always smiling and always pouring the best java you'll find.

Nannini's has opened a new space on Banchi di Sopra, mostly a gelato place to rake in the tourist bucks I suppose. The main Nannini's down the street just short of the Campo is still there but their antipasto (which used to be free during Happy Hour) is gone and the space seems less inviting. But the prices haven't changed (two Negroni Sbagliatis for 8 euros).

Traffic has only gotten worse, as far as we can tell. Parking is challenging for non-locals today and don't even think of driving into the city center, anytime, anyway, anyhow.

Contrary to what Rick Steves once said about how Siena is pedestrian friendly -- not true. Look the wrong way and you're history. So many locals park inside the walls now -- they are permitted to do so -- thus crowding the already small and narrow streets even more. Stay away from the main streets such as via Pantaneto and Banchi di Sopra, for example, and you'll generally be fine.

The move toward providing widespread internet connection accessibility has generally stalled in Siena -- and possibly in Italy as well for all we know. We spent three days hearing the same lame excuse from our hotelier: "Mi dispiace, but the Internet isn't functioning right now, but maybe later" and of course later came and went. Just plan on doing your online work at one of the internet "points" in the city.

Hotel Santa Caterina
Via E. S. Piccolomini 7
Siena 53100
phone: 0577 221 105
http://www.hscsiena.it

Siena wall

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 11:32:00 +0000

Sien rooftops in February

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 11:31:00 +0000

Siena skyline

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 11:27:00 +0000

Piazza del Campo

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:26:00 +0000

Only a neighborhood

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 11:22:00 +0000

Montaperti - the turning point

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Thu, 09 Apr 2009 11:20:00 +0000

Snow on the piazza

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 11:19:00 +0000

Moral compass

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 11:18:00 +0000

The Guardian

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 11:18:00 +0000

Center of life as we know it

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 11:17:00 +0000

Villa Geggiano

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 11:28:00 +0000

Piazza Mercato

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 11:32:00 +0000

Clean, straight, honest

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 11:26:00 +0000

Torre del Mangia

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 11:23:00 +0000

Piazza Mercato

noreply@blogger.com (Steve Soper) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 11:21:00 +0000