Skinny Suspenders

Interview with Luis Fernandez, of NUMBER:Lab

2012-02-06T12:36:00.000-08:00

The menswear label, NUMBER:Lab, has seemed to captivate men who are looking for fashionable sportswear done in a modern way. Designer, Luis Fernandez, has been recognized by the CFDA for his extraordinary work.

With the NUMBER:Lab menswear show just 3 days away, I thought it to be appropriate that I spoke with Luis about being a designer, his inspiration, and of course the new collection.

Skinny Suspenders: Before becoming a menswear designer, you were an architect. What made you make the switch?

Luis: My last architecture work was in the world of fashion, designing and conceptualizing stores and retail environments for stores and for brands.... So the switch was a little easier to make.

Skinny Suspenders: Do you think it helped you view clothes with a more constructive eye?

Luis: Luckily my training in architecture helped a lot in establishing my approach to design as a problem-solving exercise. Likewise in fashion, I’ve tried to bridge the gap between form and function.

Skinny Suspenders: How do you begin to create a collection?

Luis: I start off with identifying a BUNCH of sources for inspiration (trying to throw a wide net at first), and then trying to tie them all together in a narrative, a common thread. I also like to identify things or challenges about ‘dressing’ in the modern world, and try to address those issues through fabrics, details or design choices. I love this process because its a great way to learn about things I didn’t know about. Its sort of like being back in school again, researching in the library for a paper.

Skinny Suspenders: In your last collection you stated that both the skateboard style as well as an artwork by Picasso inspired you. Would you say tying together various inspirational sources comes naturally to you?

Luis: Funny, I think I answered this in the previous question. Yeah, I guess you bring up a perfect example for the way in which I try to take several inspirations and try to build a narrative about them. Throughout the process though, you start to realize that there is probably a subconscious reason that attracts you to those things. You realize that there is a natural harmony about all these objects, subjects or things; even if it wasn’t visibly obvious at first.

Skinny Suspenders: We saw lots of unique colors in your Spring/Summer 2012 collection. What inspired the choice to make the clothes brighter?

Luis: You know, a lot of my sources of inspiration are in sports and athletic uniforms. And there is probably where my love affair with color starts. For me, color is about making a statement and about establishing a sense of power and strength (like athletes). And so, the NUMBER:Lab man isn’t afraid to use color. Whether it’s a slight accent of pop color or a big statement, he embraces it.

Skinny Suspenders: What is the key to making clothes that can be athletic, but also fashionable and modern?

Luis: FUNCTION. For sure, it’s about the details and the things that make it functional and relevant to modern-day life. Given my architectural background, the fundamentals of “Form Follows Function” as coined by the young modernist architects, particularly Louis Sullivan, are engraved in my head. The idea that beauty is achieved and informed by the functional elements of the object.

Skinny Suspenders: NUMBER:Lab products are now being made here in the U.S., the garment district of New York City to be exact. What made you make the decision to do this?

Luis: Yes. It’s a great feeling to be able to finally say that we proudly make our garments in New York City. Our home. This decision was the culmination of many different factors, but mostly the desire to be able to fully control the development and the quality of our garments. It is an exciting time for the garment industry in the USA, and we wanted to be a part of that effort to bring back life to this industry.

Skinny Suspenders: How is the Fall 2012 collection coming along?

Luis: The collection itself is done. And I say that with a big sigh of relieve. And even amazement. (a great part of it given to the fact that it was mostly developed around the corner in the garment district). Now, with only 3 weeks left to Fashion Week, it’s about the final touches and adding elements that complete the collection.

Skinny Suspenders: What can we expect to see from it?

Luis: Ha. You’ll have to wait and see. :) ... But definitely it’s a stronger and more luxe version of our athletic-inspired spin on Sportswear.

Skinny Suspenders: How do you determine when the collection is completely finished and know when to step away from it? What’s your favorite part of ending one collection and starting another?

Luis: It’s never done!! Even sometimes I’ll see one of our garments in a store and think of how I could have done this better, or that better. But that’s what’s to love about fashion; it’s always in a constant state of refinement and evolution. Our daily lives are constantly changing, and that’s what we try to address through fashion. It’s the part that I love about what I do, you can continue to perfect and evolve and refine, season after season.

Interview with Matt Fox, of Fine and Dandy

2012-01-30T14:23:00.000-08:00

Skinny Suspenders: How did Fine and Dandy come about?
Matt: I'd always wanted to open up a shop. But in New York City the expense of real estate was cost prohibitive. In 2008 I saw an explosion of men's style online (blogs, web magazines, e-shops) and had the idea to give it a try online.

Skinny Suspenders: The Ivy League, classic American menswear is really gaining momentum right now in fashion; why do you think this is?
Matt: I think it's about men taking an interest in dressing better. For that last several decades American men have been more and more casual in their dress but that's starting to turn around. I think the recession is part of it. We all have to dress to impress (and keep our jobs). And I think there is a certain amount of comfort we receive from nostalgia and classic American menswear provides some of that.

Skinny Suspenders: What is the brand’s goal?
Matt: To provide accessible products for guys who want to dress well.

Skinny Suspenders: What is something every dandy ought to know?
Matt: Tie a bow tie. Sorry, but a clip-on just won't do it. Once you learn you'll know how for the rest of your life. Find a decent You-Tube video, lock yourself in your bedroom, and don't leave until you master it.

Skinny Suspenders: The brand really focuses on the accessories of menswear. Which are accessories are essential for every man, and why?
Matt: A guy should start with a few basics (ties and/or bow ties, pocket squares, colorful socks) and then build from there. Each of those items adds a pop of color or pattern and can transform an outfit. A gentleman's wardrobe should be constantly building and evolving.

Skinny Suspenders: The philosophy of a dandy is that you always need something to add a little flair to your outfit. How can guys go about that the right way, and how do they know if it’s something that works for them?
Matt: We encourage guys to push themselves and experiment a little. Sometimes seemingly strange combinations of colors and patterns come together amazingly. Don't always go with the obvious/safe option. Try something new - what's the worse that can happen? Do you like the response you receive from others? Do you like how you look? If not then do something different.

Skinny Suspenders: You guys offer complementary style consultations for men. What made you decide to offer that?
Matt: Being mostly online we look for ways to interact with customers. We really want to encourage people to ask questions, make suggestions, share photos, etc. The style consultations have been a really successful way to do that whether they're in person, on Skype, or via email.

Skinny Suspenders: How would you compare how men dress today to how they did in the past?
Matt: Generally men took more care in the way they dressed and presented themselves decades ago. It's amazing to look back and see how formally men would dress for seemingly informal events. Of course that contrasts with recent years when you see guys dressed in t-shirts/tank tops with jeans/shorts at fine restaurants, the theatre, the office, etc. But as I mentioned earlier, I think that's turning around.

Skinny Suspenders: Every gentleman should always be in the middle of reading something. What are some books you are currently enjoying?
Matt: I always have a few books by my bed, half-read. Currently: Hudson's Bay Company; Boutique London - A History: King's Road To Carnaby Street; and Dressing The Man - Mastering The Art Of Permanent Fashion.

Skinny Suspenders: I recently discovered the brand by shopping at the Chelsea Market here in New York. Where else can those seeking to purchase pieces go to shop?
Matt: We're primarily online (http://FineAndDandyShop.com) but we do pop-up shops from time to time and have a booth at the Brooklyn Flea about once a month. For updates you can find us on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/FineAndDandyShop) or twitter (https://twitter.com/FineNDandyShop).

Click HERE to check out the Fine and Dandy website.

Interview with Alice Walsh, of Alice Made This

2012-01-24T08:40:00.000-08:00

It goes without saying, every man needs to own at least one pair of cufflinks. If you are without a pair I would highly recommend checking out the cufflinks from designer Alice Walsh. She has created a line of well-crafted cufflinks with only 1,000 being made of each pair so you truly are investing in something unique. I recently had the chance to speak with her about the brand and her products and encourage you to familiarize yourself with the brand.

Skinny Suspenders: Prior to designing cufflinks for men you were a designer for Tom Dixon whom primarily does lighting and furniture. What did you take from that experience that helped you when you started your own brand of cufflinks?

Alice: Through designing lighting and furniture with Tom I explored allsorts of different manufacturing process and material development. Tom also knew that I loved to travel and would pack me off to visit the factories we used globally, as part of the design process. Each products materials, processes and finishes are integral to the Tom Dixon brand and during my time there I fell in love with seeing different manufacturing processes in their different global contexts. A casting factory in India is very different to one in China. I was fortunate to travel throughout the UK, Europe and Asia designing and developing directly with the factories and their highly skilled workers. These experiences developed my passion for illustrating the story of the process and this is the idea behind Alice Made This.

Skinny Suspenders: What made you decide to start a brand that focused on such a specific product?

Alice: I wanted to create a brand, which allowed me to design a product that’s form could be generated by exploring the process and the materials with which it is made. Ed (my husband) and I were looking for some cufflinks for our wedding back in 2010 and found it very hard to find simple, clean and smart ones. This was the stem of the idea and it all grew from there. Cufflinks are a niche market. My view at the moment is that I would like to focus on a niche and try and do it very well. Designing and manufacturing the cufflinks with the emphasis on their process also allows me to have both an artistic and scientific point of view.

I also grew up with two brothers and as a consequence, I like ‘boy’ stuff. It suits my character to design for boys I think!

Skinny Suspenders: Why did you choose to call the brand Alice Made This?

Alice: The emphasis of the brand is on the ‘making’ element. I like the idea that the buyer or wearer can find out where and how their cufflinks were made. Alice is my name, but is essentially the brand so I thought ‘Alice Made This’ had a personable tone, which is key. There is a process attached to all touch points throughout the customer experience – whether is be the footage of the making, The hand written edition numbers, or the hand punched receipts that the customer receives when buying directly through us. I work very closely with the factories and craftsmen I choose and find the gems amongst them. The factory I use for my precision metal turned range has a really young team who are excited by trying new things. They used to make cufflinks years ago but have become specialist in mechanical parts for precision machinery. It was fun to pull element of their heritage back into their production line.

Skinny Suspenders: What influenced you to create items that are so beautifully conservative?

Alice: “Beautifully conservative” ha ha, maybe it’s being British! I do think less is more with cufflinks. There are so many out there that are trying too hard to be quirky or kitsch that I wanted an antithesis to this. The nature of the precision metal turning process also generates a very symmetrical shape and the materials used with this process (copper, brass and steel) reflect the light beautifully working better when cleaner in shape. I’ll try and make the next collection a bit more rock and roll!

Skinny Suspenders: How should a man decide between steel, brass or copper cufflinks?

Alice: Ouu - Copper is my favourite. It’s the most precious in terms of raw material value and it tarnishes the most. This allows the wearer to choose the state in which they wear them. They can polish them up to shine or leave them to sink into a burnt orange matte sheen. That’s not really answering the question, is it? The copper looks fab with a white shirt and is perhaps the most fashion material of the pack. The brass is a slightly more grown up material and can be dressed up or down, whereas the steel is an all rounder everyday robust must. Who’d have thought you could Psychoanalyse through cufflinks!

Skinny Suspenders: Is each of the designs limited edition?

Alice: Each design in each material is limited to 1000 pairs. You get a hand written edition number on your box and I have edition books that tracks who buys each pair. It is great to have the opportunity to generate a lovely archive of customers. It also keeps me on my toes design wise.

Skinny Suspenders: How often do you create a new collection of cufflinks?

Alice: Not as often as I like. I also work for Terence Conran working on his collaboration with the British retailer Marks and Spencer designing furniture, lighting and accessories, which keeps me busy. I plan to launch a few new collections this year and am looking at some really innovative processes and exciting materials. Watch this space though. If you like the current collection I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Skinny Suspenders: What has been the most satisfying thing so far about starting your own brand?

Alice: Getting it off the ground is extremely satisfying. To see all your own hard work go live is daunting yet rewarding. I approached it all through social media and this worked really well for me. I sent some pairs out to some press and people I really wanted to start talking about the brand and it worked. Jeremy Langmead of Mr. Porter got in touch the day after the launch and I was on their site 3 weeks later, which was amazing.

I have also been very lucky that everyone who I have had the fortune of dealing with so far has been incredible positive from manufacturer through to retailers. I did a lovely pre Christmas pop up shop where I was able to directly interact with the customers and explain the brand to them in person. It was so nice to see that people were interested in the story behind the product and that they bought into my geeky enthusiasm about how and why I make the cufflinks.

Skinny Suspenders: Do you think enough men wear cufflinks?

Alice: I think more men should. The modern gentleman is very appealing.

Skinny Suspenders: What would you tell a man who has yet to own a pair of cufflinks?

Alice: As Oscar Wilde once said – “Looking good and dressing well is a necessity.”

Click HERE to visit her website.

Click HERE to purchase the cufflinks at Mr. Porter.

Thom Browne Fall 2012

2012-01-23T08:24:00.000-08:00

Men's Paris Fashion Week. Untraditional textiles, exuberant colorful accessories, and a wide range of inspiring outwear - and that's just the street style. The runway images are coming at you every which way and the greatness of Burberry's runway show seems like it was years ago already. The thing to take away from all of this is not to memorize where every style and trend came from, but rather to have a buffet of inspiration to choose from. The goal is out of everything find something you like, rather than just liking everything. After feeling like I have seen it all this season, Thom Browne does what he always does to my heart - melts it. This season the formula for the collection seems to be this:

The Hunchback of Notre Dame + Parisian drama + American nautical influence = Thom Browne Fall 2012.

For one, I liked it simply because the silhouette was a surprising way for every male model to appear both eye-catching and like he ate enough for his body to actually produce muscle. The styling of both the runway and the models made for it to be entertaining, but if you took it away and shrunk the clothes you would be left with what is a very modern, very handsome, fresh take on what men should - and will - be wearing this spring. Thumbs up Mr. Browne.

Images courtesy of GQ.com

Interview with Heather Hasson, of FIGS

2012-01-19T09:22:00.000-08:00

A few days ago I arranged to speak on the phone with Ben Chase, the operation manager of FIGS. It's a brand I have seen and heard about in passing, but just recently became an actual fan of. The neckwear these guys produce is fantastic, and that alone is reason to buy the products. However, the incentive to do so only grows when you realize how much good these guys do. For every tie you buy, you're also buying a child's school uniform they need in order to obtain an education.

I am lucky enough to get answers to my questions from Ben, as well as Heather Hasson, the founder of FIGS. I hang up at the end of the conversation feeling excited and inspired by how genuine, friendly, and personal the people behind the brand are. While I am always proud to share my interviews here, I am especially proud of this one.

Skinny Suspenders: How long brand existed?

FIGS: We’ve been making ties since 2009.

Skinny Suspenders: What is significant about the name FIGS (Fashion Inspired Global Sophistication)?
FIGS: Our name is who we are. Fashion inspires the world to create. To work, to learn, to be confident, to feel good about themselves. Both our ties and our uniforms inspire others to succeed both in school and work, and motivate them to be their best. So that’s where we came up with the name FIGS; how fashion inspires the world to really be their best and actualize their potential.

Skinny Suspenders: How does the Threads for Threads program work?
FIGS: Threads for Threads is our initiative, of course, and it’s really the heart of our company. We created it to promote global education and inspire children across the globe to realize their dreams of getting an education and making their world, their community a better place, and being whoever they want to be. For every tie sold FIGS gives an entire school uniform to a child in need so that they can receive an education. Right now we are serving approximately 105 schools in primarily eastern Africa, Kenya, Tansania, and then also in Nepal.

All of the uniforms that we provide are handmade by local tailors in the communities where the students actually live. We are so happy to say not only do these ties promote education, not only do they make you look great, make the children look great, make everyone feel good about themselves, but they also provide jobs in those needy communities.

Skinny Suspenders: So it helps adult there, as well as the kids?
FIGS: Correct, we have people who work for FIGS not just here making the ties, but the family members of these children are helping make the ties. Local sewers, local weavers, every element of that uniform is produced in that community.

Skinny Suspenders: What do the school uniforms consist of – do they wear ties?
FIGS: All the children wear ties, which is why we chose to sell neckties. Heather was actually on a trip to Africa in 2009, which is where she was inspired to create FIGS, and while she was there she was overwhelmed and confronted with all of this poverty. In the midst of all of this poverty saw these school children who maybe in their normal day to day lives have anything but rags to wear, but when they go to school they have this uniform which is required to go to school. A lot of these communities actually have education that is provided, but if they don’t have a uniform they can’t go. She believes that everyone deserves an education, especially these children who need this education to make their community better, to make our world a better place. Just to see a necktie a symbol in these communities is a symbol of professional, a symbol of confidence, just as much to them as it is to us.

Skinny Suspenders: Essentially, it can be a reminder to us when we wear our FIGS necktie we can remember the kid we helped by buying that.
FIGS: Absolutely, and your tie purchase – whether it’s a necktie, bow tie, or scarf tie - directly translates into one necktie, a skirt or pants, and shirt, the whole uniform. The uniform just depends on that school. There’s no mass uniform that we provide. We go to the schools, we have contacts in every school community, and whatever their school colors is that’s the color of their uniform. It’s whatever is culturally appropriate for that community. But they do all wear ties. Its not commercialized uniforms, it’s completely customized.

Skinny Suspenders: Speaking of custom, can we get our FIG ties customized?

FIGS: You absolutely can. We do anything from small custom orders, to really big orders of thousands of ties. Every aspect of our ties is customizable: any detail – from the fabric, woven details, to the labels. Everything is made to your personal aesthetic. For example we do the Clinton Global Initiative, we’ve been making their ties for several years now. If you can dream it, we can make it. Every custom tie translates to a uniform as well.

Skinny Suspenders: So where are the actual FIG products made?
FIGS: Our ties are global just like our uniforms. Our fabrics are woven in the UK and Italy (woven from the UK and silk ties from Italy), and then we import the fabric and have all of the ties stitched here by all of our tailors in both New York and Los Angeles. Our cashmere scarf ties are made in the Himalayas in Nepal and the cool thing about that is it comes from the communities that we help and each scarf translates into a child’s uniform as well.

Skinny Suspenders: Do you think you’ll venture into other products other than ties or do you think you’ll stay focused on them?
FIGS: At this point, no. We are focused on making the best looking, the best priced, the best tie that we can. Making FIGS the best it can be.

Skinny Suspenders: If there brand could accomplish anything, what would it be?
FIGS: There are 120 million children in the world who don’t have access to an education, and our goal is to sell 120 million ties so that each and every one of them has the ability to go to school.

Skinny Suspenders: How many kids have you helped so far?
Figs: Around 10,000 kids have been put in uniforms so far.

Skinny Suspenders: Does the company ever try and go on trips.

FIGS: We try to do a trip every year. 2011 was Nepal, 2009 was Africa, and in 2012 we plan on going to Africa again. Every year we try to add new places, new schools, and expand our program as much as we can. The more ties we can sell, the more kids we can help. But it’s important for us to develop personal relationships with those schools. We like to follow-up, take photographs, see them on the day they get their uniforms, and really make sure every detail is taken care of. We have people in the community, such as teachers, who keep up with us and let us know what they need which is really great. It’s very personal.

Skinny Suspenders: You’re not blindly giving, you know who you’re helping and what it does for them.
FIGS: Yea, we’re there in their school playing soccer with them and running around, seeing what they need and seeing what difference it makes. There’s no better feeling in the world than to help these children.

Visit the site here: http://www.wearfigs.com/

Static in Milan

2012-01-16T12:20:00.000-08:00

Milan is one of the best places in the world to push out inspiring men's fashion. With menswear consistency of bold colors these last few months, it's no surprise designers have opted to change things up a bit with a darker color palette. Many of the collections are really focusing on the fit of things and doing the traditional pieces in untraditional materials. Since menswear is becoming more popular than ever on the Internet, after a while it just becomes static. Which could very well be a favorite trend of mine throughout the collections. Intentional or not, I really like this underlying trend that mimics salt and pepper. It's remaining a neutral but still taking a stance by looking very distinct.

(Salvatore Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Jil Sander, and Burberry)

Sunday Sweater

2012-01-15T11:19:00.000-08:00

As I get ready to gear up and head back to the wonderfully cold New York next week, my mind scrambles to determine how exactly I will manage to stay warm. The solution could very well be this Ben Sherman sweater, and by sweater I mean I need to own the entire collection. Twice. I own nothing that's red which might be part of the allure. Or the fact that it still looks extremely comfortable and soft, but not an oversized, misshapen sweater. Thus I declare it my Sunday sweater.

Ben Sherman sweater available at Asos.com

Interview with Gary Kingsnorth, of The Style King

2012-01-13T11:08:00.000-08:00

The continuous growth of the Internet has led many creative individuals to revamp how we do things. Gary Kingsnorth, the editor of The Style King, did just that. The website is half online magazine and half online shopping, creating a one-stop destination.
I recently had the opportunity to speak with him about why he created it, and how it works.

Skinny Suspenders: When was The Style King started?

Gary: I launched www.thestyleking.com in July 2010.

Skinny Suspenders: What made you want to create it?

Gary: I was previously Fashion Director of men's style magazine FHM where I had been working for 12 years. I wanted to start my own business and realized that things were moving from print to online and there was a gap in the market for an exclusive men's style website.

Skinny Suspenders: What would you say is most unique about The Style King?

Gary: I like to think that there is a quality to the work that we produce, TSK is not really about reproducing press releases that we get sent but educating and informing our readers about men's style with a little culture thrown in to the mix which I hope makes it interesting enough for people to want to keep coming back for more.

Skinny Suspenders: Can you explain how the combination works with mixing an online store with an online magazine?

Gary: We can offer editorial style advice and features, which inspire the reader, and then we can make it easy if they feel they would like to make a purchase. It seems to be the way that things are going and we need to make the website interesting enough for people to want to keep coming back for more. The Internet means that shopping online is a experience that is different and unique and will become the norm in the future.

Skinny Suspenders: What is your favorite part about the online world?

Gary: I like the fact that online is global, we have visitors from all over the world which makes online very exciting for me. There is so much that we can do in the future that I couldn't do with print that is very exciting.

Skinny Suspenders: What most interests you about menswear?

Gary: I have always had a deep interest in style and fashion and I think being male definitely helps! There so are many stories to be told about menswear and history attached to many labels that often get overshadowed this makes interesting stories and there is always something new to learn.

Skinny Suspenders: What do you think men are looking for most from the Internet?

Gary: There is a wealth of information available online and the internet is changing the way that we live and interact with people, we have a little niche in men's style so for those interested in style I am trying to offer a one stop destination.

Skinny Suspenders: The Style King offers guidance for men when it comes to style. What do you think men most often need help with?

Gary: That depends on the man, some men don't need our advice at all but many others do. I like to offer practical and accessible information, fashion can sometimes be quite intimidating for many guys so I like to offer advice in a way that I hope they can relate to.

Skinny Suspenders: What are 3 things men should invest in for Spring 2012?

Gary: A Harrington style jacket, cropped chino style pants and a cool rucksack!

Visit The Style King: http://www.thestyleking.com/

Using Camouflage to Stand Out

2012-01-10T11:42:00.000-08:00

Each season when the fashion boys head overseas to Florence to enjoy Fashion Week, it seems they always come back saying one thing: camouflage. It doesn't matter what the other trends are that men will actually be wearing the next season, it never fails for camouflage to come up in the trends we will see. With today being the first day of Pitti Uomo, your Twitter and Instagram feed will surely be filled with men and their camo. This isn't your average camouflage. No, no - this is your Louis Vuitton camo. Different sizes, different shades, and a ton of different abstract camos.

In all honestly, the way these men wear it, it looks good. You just have to stomach through the heavy concentration of trends during fashion week because the newness always settles down a bit. It just seems recently men keep getting re-excited about camouflage. Maybe it is the leopard print for men. Maybe it is here to stay. Or maybe, just maybe, it's a way for men to ease into wearing prints (which will without a doubt be a trend this year) while still feeling masculine.

TOMMY TON PHOTOGRAPHS

Can you tie it in a bow?

2012-01-09T08:40:00.000-08:00

   Gentlemen, you know it's happened. You are finally ready to embark on the intimidating task of tying a real bow tie. You stand before your mirror feeling a little unsure, but you have your laptop with you and you search through various guides while simultaneously struggling to get it tied. If this hasn't happened to you than you are either lying, or you need to go out and buy yourself a real bow tie. Not that I think anything is wrong with a pre-tied bow tie that you clip in the back, but for casual occasions. If you're really wanting to dress up don't deprive your neck of an actual bow tie.
   So there you are having a few steps completed from one guide, quickly jumping over to another guide because the first guide left your bow tie looking like a sloppy bow a child did for a Christmas gift. You lose your patience, and once that happens then it's all over. Getting it just right is about being patient. However, to get it right you have to have a good guide. First of all, you need a video. No six-part sketch will help you work with a 3-dimensional object. Second of all, this is the video you need: CLICK HERE.
   It's the guide I used and the step about folding the bow tie to reach the back easier is the step I needed to do my bow perfectly. And in the spirit of bow ties, here are a few I've been eyeing from J.Press that are perfect if you can't seem to get it right.

I suppose it's only fair to see how mine turned out. Click here.

Interview with Alex Cleary, of Alpha60

2012-01-06T08:15:00.000-08:00

The brand Alpha60 was created by brother-and-sister Alex and Georgie Cleary. The Australian designer duo have presented at Melbourne Fashion Week and continue to impress people with their graphic and eccentric designs. I recently had the pleasure of interviewing Alex, the guy behind the brand, to talk about Alpha60.

Skinny Suspenders: For those who are unfamiliar with Alpha60, how would you describe the brand?
ALEX: We like to describe it as sophisticated quirk – it’s all about classic cuts and great fabrics with a twist.

Skinny Suspenders: What made you two decide to come together to create Alpha60?

ALEX: It has actually been a really organic process. We started off making a couple of shirts as a hobby; a couple grew into a few and then more. It was a nice way to start, as there was no pressure to grow the business, we just got to make cool stuff. We had been going for a few seasons before we thought we could actually make a run of it. Then the dream became to make a living out of doing our hobby.

Skinny Suspenders: Do you think you guys’ history of being a graphic designer and an aircraft engineer help to put a unique spin on the clothes?

ALEX: I think that we have approached it all a little differently, as we didn't know what the rules were to follow. We also started with a very strong graphic direction - prints were our specialty and we had to learn how to make the garment for them to go on.

Skinny Suspenders: It’s always interesting to see how two creative people work so closely together. How do you two manage to agree on pieces for the line while still feeling like you both have had a say in it?

ALEX: We have been working together since we were about ten. Our first business was selling flowers on the side of the road near our farm. We have grown camellias, made bags, skateboards, t-shirts and muffins. So it’s not all that surprising that we can still work together. What is surprising is that we rarely disagree on the creative direction - and in fact we haven't ever had a fight. It’s probably because we have common goals. Our aim is to keep the business going so that we get to create more!

Skinny Suspenders: What would you say is the difference between designing for your male customer and your female customer?

ALEX: I would like to think that we keep the same mentality for both men and women. We are in the lucky position that we design what Georgie likes to wear for the ladies and what I like to wear for the guys.

Skinny Suspenders: I remember getting a t-shirt from Alpha60 with an image of Jean Luc Godard on the front of it. How big of an influence does he have on the brand?

ALEX: We love JLG - Alpha60 is taken from the movie Alphaville (1965) which is about a computer (Alpha60) that controls a society that seems to be without emotion. It is beautiful! Since the naming we have used pictures from many of JLG's works, including a picture of the man himself 5m high in our Melbourne city store. The star of the movie, Anna Karina, came to visit us last year - meeting one of our muse's, what a treat!

Skinny Suspenders: It has been said that Alpha60 does not have a master plan, but rather just moves forward one step at a time; do you think this helps create an organic evolution within the brand?

ALEX: We probably started like that, working furiously to move onto the next project, but now there is more of a master plan. We will likely open a couple more shops in Australia this year, and then hopefully one overseas. New York, London, Berlin, Copenhagen? Who knows?

Skinny Suspenders: The clothes could be classified as minimal, graphic, and sophisticated while still remaining quirky. What is it about these elements that you like so much?

ALEX: How nice of you to say! Because that is exactly the plan. The secret is keeping a balance between all of these points. Too quirky and you risk looking clowny or cute, and too sophisticated and it might be boring. We both like minimal. It’s very important not to over design.

Skinny Suspenders: If someone were to sit in the Alpha60 studio, what would they observe?

ALEX: Sitting here now - its a beautiful Australian summer day – it’s about 28, the sun is just setting in our view over the park and museum. Beirut is on the stereo as we are getting excited for the concert tomorrow night. Swatches are spread from one end to the other as we are choosing fabrics for summer.

Skinny Suspenders: When you’re tired and need to getaway from everything – where do you go and what do you do?

ALEX: Straight to the park. We grew up on a farm, so we both find peace around trees, flowers and open space.

Skinny Suspenders: What has been your favorite moment of designing so far?

ALEX: Probably our favorite moment was when Patti Smith came into our Melbourne store, put on a JLG t-shirt and stood in front of his giant portrait for a picture. She was meeting with Godard, and suggested that we should make a t-shirt with her on it so she could wear it to the meeting and give him his. Of course we obliged.

Check out their website HERE.

New Gear for the New Year

2012-01-05T14:03:00.000-08:00

A New Year brings about a new attitude in many of us. It's a fresh start, and everyone loves a chance to give a makeover to their life. With this being the fourth year of running this blog, I thought that this time one of my resolutions would be to work on maturing the blog, (hence the new look). My intentions always have, and always will be to bring news and inspiration pertaining to guys everywhere. In the past it was through personal style posts, but as time has passed new cravings have evolved. I hope this year to produce content like never before, meaning more interviews with industry insiders both new and old. I'm excited for this year, and will continue to be grateful for those who read and support this blog.

There are three main ingredients for my New Year. Read more, stay organized, and to be better at staying in touch with close ones. I recently got a kindle, and have been zipping through books. It's an easy way for me to read while traveling whether by plane or subway. However, my love for actual books is not in jeopardy. Books like Simon Doonan's is one I want to physically see on my book shelf. As for staying organized, I believe in writing things down. Keeping different things in various notebooks doesn't just organize your thoughts, but it helps you remember things better by physically writing them down. Lastly, as much as I love an email or @ reply, nothing quite beats a handwritten note. As for the flask? That's just because I turn 21 this year.

1. Simon Doonan's Gay Men Don't Get Fat

2. Connor Stationary available at Barney's

3. J.Crew leather journal

4. Flask available at Jack Spade

5. West Elm monogrammed paperweight

6. Kindle case available at Amazon

What you should have asked for

2011-12-23T08:50:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite things about the holidays is gift guides for guys. Surprisingly a lot of magazines and websites have great suggestions and it's a great way to find out about online stores. While it may be a tad late to add things to your Christmas list, it gives you an idea of what to purchase with the money you get from returning the gifts you don't like.

The list includes a Hartford cardigan from Mr. Porter, Artisan scented candle from ABC Home & Furnishings, a favorite New York store of mine, a maple burn frame from ABC, a framed photograph of a sail boat from Pottery Barn, Bravado unisex cologne which I currently use and really enjoy, and a Tibetan leather box from ABC homes.

Interview with Nick Wooster, of Gilt Man

2011-12-21T11:48:00.000-08:00

There is no doubt that the Internet has been one of the most beneficial things for menswear. It has allowed men to embrace fashion in an entirely new way. Whether it is his work for Gilt Man and Park and Bond, or it's just his inspiring Tumblr page; menswear pioneer, Nick Wooster, is truly helping guide fashion for today's guys.

To change fashion you must know fashion, which can prove to be difficult considering how reluctant men have been to adopting new sartorial ideas in the past. But menswear is different today. Men's wardrobes are adapting to the current times, and thought is being put into personal style.

I recently have the privilege to discuss some of these things with Mr. Wooster. It is always refreshing to hear someone so excited and optimistic about menswear.

Skinny Suspenders: This year has brought you many new experiences, such as PROJECT Wooster, and now you are at Gilt Man. What is the most exciting thing about working there?

NICK: It has been an incredible year for me. The two main projects that I am working on, Gilt Man (www.giltmanual.com) and Park & Bond (www.parkandbond.com), as well as working as a creative advisor to the Project Trade Show...what both groups have in common, is I get the opportunity to work with the most amazing people. I've learned at this stage of my life that this is the most important thing. And I really believe in what both groups do.

Skinny Suspenders: Gilt really focuses on offering clothing at affordable prices. Do you think this factor contributes to the success of Gilt MAN as many men today are shopping on a budget?

NICK: I definitely think that is part of it...but price alone does not guarantee success. In addition to offering great deals, the Gilt MAN merchant team really works to find the best possible product. Then we work with the most talented photographers, stylists and art directors to create the best image. We have to tell a story. And I think the site, as well as the editorial content of Gilt MANual, really strive to do that.

Skinny Suspenders: Often times men are hesitate about style and fashion purely because they are unsure and uninformed. Things like Gilt Manual allow for explanations, inspirations, and guides to build a complete wardrobe. Do you think that the decrease in the effort it takes to find information has caused an increase in interest in fashion for men?

NICK: Probably, but I also think the blogosphere and Tumblr in particular, have really created an environment where menswear can shine. I think menswear has come out of the closet. In my experience, guys want information...and the ether is full of lots of great content. Hopefully, we have taken the additional role of editor, to help make sense out of all of it. It's the most exciting time I have ever seen for hard core information and geeking out on menswear.

Skinny Suspenders: When you look at the past and the men who influenced fashion, it is easy to get discouraged and say men today are not trying as hard. However, today men are free to dress however they wish, more so than ever before. Do you believe men are still trying, just in a different way than in the past?

NICK: Absolutely. Times have changed. We no longer have the traditional uniforms and dress codes of the past. I think this has been a double edged sword. When you know that you can only wear one thing...it makes it really easy. Although most men felt restricted by the suit/shirt/tie dress code of the past...we now know with hindsight...it was one less thing to think about. It made shopping for clothes really cut and dry. Now, there is so much pressure, to have the right items, look great in them and feel current. Especially as the workforce seems to get younger. I think guys are trying harder than ever. That's what our editorial content provides--a road map.

Skinny Suspenders: Who, from the past, has inspired your style?

NICK: I get inspiration for everything. Movies, art, people on the street, magazines, stores. No one particular figure in history...maybe Little Lord Fountlaroy.

Skinny Suspenders: Having worked in the menswear industry for a while, what is the one thing the men today have gotten better at, and something they have gotten worse at?

NICK: Men are definitely more interested in style. And shoes.

Skinny Suspenders: If you could change anything about the menswear industry today, what would it be?

NICK: I wish that menswear was as meaningful to a store's bottom line as womenswear.

Skinny Suspenders: Men typically prefer quality to quantity, and keep those things for a long period of time. What is the oldest thing you own that you still wear today?

NICK: I have several pair of shoes that are 20+ years old. I have tailored jackets that are 15+ and my first designer purchase from Perry Ellis [an olive tweed coat] that I purchased in 1984.

Skinny Suspenders: What was your latest purchase?

NICK: I bought a Raif handknit cashmere hat and gloves from the GQ @ Park & Bond POP UP.

Skinny Suspenders: How would you define a modern gentleman?

NICK: Great manners. Great taste.

Savage Grace

2011-12-13T12:24:00.000-08:00

Recently I went to go see the new film My Week with Marilyn, and though Michelle Williams did a wonderful job it was Eddie Redmayn whom I couldn't keep my eye off of. Upon searching for what else he was in I discovered he was in a film a few years ago with Julianne Moore called Savage Grace. So I watched it immediately, and while the plot wasn't exactly what I was expecting it had beautiful scenes and I couldn't help but take some screen shots. Those freckles.

Weekend-spiration

2011-12-11T12:07:00.000-08:00

There seems to be a drought of blog posts lately, and for that I can only blame it on the fact that it's finals week. Fashion school around finals looks like a herd of sleep-deprived kids who have been living in or around anywhere with a Starbucks. However, soon enough I will be on my flight home and regrouping before I do it all again next semester. So in-between reading my Fashion Business textbook and my Fashion Advertising text, I decided a little inspiration would be a nice change of scenery.

Fashion Provides

2011-12-05T08:19:00.000-08:00

Many are confused at the constant fashion material presented now but is intended for future seasons, however should consider that maybe the future has become our present. People get tied up in the thought that we worry too much about the future and not enough about the present. While either side could equally be argued, I find it intriguing to think about the positive aspects of our industry that only grows in speed.

Some may worry that if we look at Spring 2012, then when we finally get there we will have nothing to inspire us. But that in itself is the lost of faith in the fashion industry. Fashion will always provide, it is the industry that keeps on giving. When we get to Spring 2012 we will be inspired by Fall 2012, and from there we just keep looking forward. We now live in a culture where what will be in our future, inspires us today. Inspiration will always emerge from somewhere, never doubt that. After all, the clothes made for the next season are made now. They are apart of our culture right now.

Planning is how people shop now. We care about what we buy, we research what we buy, and we need to be selective. Giving us a head start is what we need. And if the trends are taken from spring to use this fall and we grow bored with it, it only challenges us more.

I say this all because I enjoy doing posts and writing about the collections for the next season. I write about what I like, not how it correlates to the temperature outside my window. And so I want to shift the attention to Surface to Air's Spring/Summer 2012 lookbook. Earthy mosses, tomato reds, and dusty khakis make up the collection. I especially appreciate the thoughtfulness that went into the collection to make it look so thought-less and simple. Simplicity is everything.

Aether Comes to SoHo

2011-11-18T09:39:00.000-08:00

As my friend and I walked through SoHo last night to check out the Aether Apparel collection, I knew we had arrived when on the corner of Prince and Mulberry there was a giant tent and RV. It was a brilliant spin on the pop-up store idea. Once you walked it felt like you were no longer in Manhattan but rather out in the wilderness... with a rather nicely furnished RV and a few racks of jackets.

My hand reached for the top of the sleeve and slid down the soft material. It was instant comfort. For so long true outerwear has been neglected to be mixed with style, because so many people who bought those types of jackets didn't care if it was stylish. However, therein lies the newly found customer. Someone who craves the warmth of an authentic outwear jacket, but insists that it be designed slick and modernly.

The rest of the RV included books, ropes, typewriters, a bed, and everything else I would most likely take on a camping trip. Walking out, there was a little tent setup to get warm drinks. Within a few seconds I was handed a hot chocolate which instantly warmed my hands. After mentioning how good it was after my first sip, the man leaned over and said "It's homemade." Funny how the same sense of quality and care that goes into a cup of hot chocolate is the same that goes into the brand.

(Photos courtesy of Aether.)

ASOS S/S12 Presentation

2011-11-17T13:59:00.000-08:00

Recently I had the pleasure of making an appointment to preview the Asos Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Though Asos is known for carrying a wide range of other labels and designers, their own brand is one of the UK's favorite fast-fashion labels. While I can sit down all day and dream and lust over expensive clothing, the cold truth is that I, as well as many other guys my age, desire the styles and designs but need it at an approachable, affordable price. That is a huge reason why I am excited to show the clothes and accessories that will be available, as well as my recommendations of what to get.

Buying online is hugely popular, and even more so with the Asos free shipping policy, but shopping online makes it harder to know what you should and shouldn't get. Beginning with the accessories, the backpacks scream color and differentiation. I thought the sizes were great and would carry a substantial amount of stuff. I was also told, many of the guys who work at Asos have these backpacks and use them instead of briefcases. The shoes start at 60 U.S. dollars and felt like they would be pretty comfortable. My favorite accessory was definitely the ties and pocket-squares. Not only are they affordable but they also are slim, and feel super soft and modern.

As for the clothes, they had three different mini collections. The first was their Ocean Blue theme which consisted of colorful windbreakers, printed shorts, colors like sherbet orange and red, color blocking shorts in which the top half was blue and the bottom half was yellow, polka dot blazers, and a matching set of plaid shorts with a blazer. The second was their Rural Collection theme which was filled with the aztec patterns many men have been drawn to lately. It also included corduroys, colors like mustard, faded brown, and clay red. One of my favorite pieces was the chinos. The third mini collection was the Fuji themed clothing which included patchwork shorts, camouflage, and tops with tiny repetitive palm trees. I was thoroughly impressed and I can realistically envision purchasing stuff for next spring.

Online & Print

2011-11-11T07:38:00.000-08:00

In this crazy online-obsessed world we live in, things seem to almost develop backwards. Before you might see a brand slowly build its' online presence, however now we are seeing online stores and brands make their way to print. Park & Bond just released the images for their print advertisement which will be featured in this December's GQ.

When a print ad is made, it is essential to breathe life into the brand by showing who exactly that customer is and wants to be. In this particular case, Park & Bond seems to be applying to a wide range of men with the common denominator being a interest in nice clothes. They are not selling a style or one look, they are selling menswear.

Levi's Spring 2012 Presentation

2011-11-11T07:09:00.000-08:00

With Levi's exploring innovative, eco-friendly advances in their clothing - I was excited to attend their Spring 2012 collection presentation at Stage 37. The large space was broken down into smaller sections, allowing you to concentrate on specific pieces and accessories that Levi's will be selling come spring.

Sections of the presentation included a farmer's market, a shack with the inside being exclusively to feel and touch the different pants for men and women, an area with a live band, and even an area with boats and models with an ocean video projected on the back wall. It is clear that Levi's understands that presentations are more than clothes, it is a visual representation of who the brand is, or rather who the brand is evolving into.

I have to say this is one of the best presentations that I have been to. It was so easy to pick up on what the goal of the brand is: American-made quality clothing that has been made with more thought into the process of production than ever before.

Repurposing

2011-11-10T06:59:00.000-08:00

The invention of the iPad began the invention of some of the most incredible cases for it. However, who says you have to have an iPad to buy an iPad case? The cases below are intended for laptops or iPads, but quite frankly are perfect to just carry around papers, magazines, and any other paperwork you might need to tug around. Of course the cases will range greatly in price, but even the less expensive leather-like envelopes make for perfect alternative to a briefcase.

(Cherchbi, Paul Smith, Valextra Bags)

Andrew Marc Spring 2012

2011-11-08T12:59:00.000-08:00

The other day as I headed up to my appointment at Andrew Marc to check out the Spring 2012 collection, New York decided it would begin pouring down on me. The only way to describe New York City when it rains is to imagine a game of bumper cars, only with umbrellas. Despite the gross weather, I made it on time and was taken care of by the team.

The difference between looking at a collection on the computer and looking at it in person is more than just the difference between seeing and feeling, it's about hearing. The brand's voice is louder and stronger when you can look at the clothes while you also hear about the direction they are moving in, and have the pieces in front of you as a visual representation of that movement. The brand Andrew Marc, which is often classified as only outerwear, is slowly and carefully expanding into a much broader spectrum of clothing while still putting emphasis on their beautiful crafted leather outwear garments. I thoroughly enjoyed the bright colors, bags, and getting a sneak at what the brand has up their sleeve.

Dockers Spring 2012 Preview

2011-10-28T08:55:00.000-07:00

The menswear industry made its way down to the Chelsea Arts Tower last night for the Dockers Spring 2012 preview. Though the weather was a bit gross out, it was nothing that a coat and umbrella check couldn't fix. Following the coat check, people hopped on the elevator and made their way up to the 21st floor. As the elevator climbed higher, you could hear the faint sound of music begin to grow louder. As the elevator doors opened you were greeted by a DJ, a bar, and of course the Spring 2012 collection.

Pants in different shades of colors were worn by male models who were scattered across the room and stood upon a small wooden construction. The models, which are typically quiet and motionless, were in full conversation and moving freely. As they conversed amongst each other, gesturing with their hands, it felt like I was watching real men interacting and dressed how they would in the real world. The styling from literally top to bottom (baseball caps all the way to shoes paired with socks) was spot on and you could envision wearing a similar outfit. As I made my way out to pick up my umbrella and coat, I was asked my pant size and given a pair of Dockers. It is nice to know a brand appreciates the people who embrace them, as it also nice to know there are now a group of men who will all be wearing our new khakis.

Vicarious By Nature x DODOcase

2011-10-27T07:21:00.000-07:00

As new inventions come into our lives, we often fear that the things we once loved will be replaced. While there might be an aspect of truth to that, new things are exciting and are here to contribute to what we own, not replace it. Just as many musical inventions have come into existence, owning and playing an actual record has an effect on us like nothing else. The same thing is happening in the world of books. The iPad and other electronic devices used for reading do not have to replace books all together. After all, the most popular thing for iPads right now is cleverly designed cases to disguise them as books.

Which leads me to the collaboration between Vicarious By Nature and DODOcase. The two brands collaborated to bring us this beautiful organic 16-whale corduroy book-binded iPad 2 case. Perfect for the modern gentlemen's train rides around the city.

(Available for $69.95 at select boutiques.)