In the wake of the Rana Plaza building collapse, retailers have been trying to separate themselves from the responsibility of these situations: pulling out from some manufacturing companies exposed for questionable practices and establishing ‘victim funds’ in the aftermath. While we commend many retailers who have donated funds to help victims and their families, real change needs to be made to the whole of the fashion machine, and it starts with you!

That shirt you are wearing costs a lot more than what is on the price tag. The hidden costs of every good we consume get lost in the superficial haze of price, perceived value, fit, and trend. It looks so stylish on the hanger, even better when you try it on, but do you look at the label to see where it is from, or even know anything about the retailer’s production standards and ethics?

The “hidden cost” refers to the costs beyond materials, manufacturing, and markup (a.k.a. the price tag). Hidden costs can include: level of labor standards, number of man-hours (which includes growing/producing the raw materials, textile production, and assembly), as well as environmental factors (such as pesticide use on cotton plants and industrial run-off from the dye process).

When the Bangladesh tragedy hit newsstands millions of people who were previously unaware of where clothing comes from were immediately touched. Struck with just an inkling of knowledge where their clothing comes from and how many people are involved in the manufacturing process. Now is the time to rethink your place in the retail/consumption cycle and pay attention to the hidden cost of your clothes.

What is the hidden cost of your choice? Are you supporting child-labor? Or poor working conditions? Adding to global pollution? Are you adding to the problem rather than being a part of the solution?

Slow down. Think.

More news about the Rana Plaza disaster:
Bangladesh Factory Collapse: Is There Blood on Your Shirt?
Divided Over Bangladesh [video]
Death Toll Rises From Bangladesh Building Collapse
Bangladesh Arrests Engineer Who Warned of Dangers

Some dip their toe in the waters of change and wade in slowly making small commitments at a time until they are fully-formed good habits, but not Rachel Bethke. Having grown up on a farm with first-hand experience with Slow Food, Slow Fashion was a likely next step for which she dove in head-long committing to a year of conscious fashion consumption.

Rachel has been chronicling her trials, triumphs and expressive style in her blog: The Year of Slow Fashion. Now that she most of the way through her personal challenge to slow down we asked her to reflect on what she has learned and how she has grown:

How and where did you hear about Slow Movement?

Slow Food really changed the terminology of what I was already doing. I first heard about slow food after watching Food INC and getting into discussions about it at my local college. As an agriculture major I have always had a weird dichotomy fighting me on this front. My education told me that agriculture in general was good and animals were being treated properly through good ‘animal science’ programs. Then I began doing more reading and realizing the meat I was eating was improperly treated and I began caring more about eating local/sustainable foods.

Growing up on a farm where we have fresh produce ½ of the year put me in a totally different position than some people. I have always been aware of where food comes from because for a large part of my plate it came from my backyard, my transition to becoming a vegan has made me think about Slow Food even more. The reason I have joined both these movements and the slow food movement as a vegan is to reduce my footprint on the earth. I know we are at a point where global warming is happening and not going to get better, but I feel like if I do my part I at least can say that I tried.

I think I began hearing about the slow movement in general when I started reading Adbusters in high school. The first thing that really made me start thinking about it was their celebration of BUY NOTHING DAY. It brought the absurdity of how we consume and how silly it is that every year on one day (black Friday) the United States becomes insane for cheap stuff. The first time I heard the term ‘Slow Fashion’ though was when I was reading a lot of books I came across Overdressed by Elizabeth L. Cline. It put together everything I already knew about the fashion industry from Adbusters and my personal research which inspired me to do this challenge for myself.

When you began The Year of Slow Fashion what did you hope to achieve personally and as a voice in the blogosphere?

At first I started it just for personal reasons, but I realized quickly that I want people to see that slowing down consumption does not mean you have to look unstylish or frumpy, it’s quite the opposite. When I personally started slowing down and observing my style from afar I think I began to understand my personal style better and it has only grown.

Now that you are most of the way through a year of slow fashion, what have you discovered about yourself and your consumption habits?

HOLY COW. What was I thinking? Is my initial thought when I just read that question.I mean I really have set myself up for quite the challenge and it has been quite a challenge so far. The one thing I have noticed is my clothes are very emotionally driven, some days I wake up and it’s lucky I put on my yoga pants and go to yoga. Other days I love getting dressed up and going out. I definitely am taking more fashion risks than I used to, I think I just see fashion differently now.

In terms of my consumption I have become aware of how much I relied on fast fashion. It was cheap and I was cheap and it was so easy to do! Now that I think about it more it seems silly, most of those pieces don’t even exist in my closet or if they do I have altered/adjusted them quite significantly.

How has Slow Fashion impacted the way you spend, where you shop, and how you view & use the clothing you already own?

Slow Fashion has impacted how I shop in every possible way. I honestly hadn’t gone into a mall since the blog started except a few days ago because I got a Victoria’s Secret gift card for my birthday (which I still haven’t spent mind you…). It was strange going to the mall. I honestly walked into Forever 21 just to see what was going on and I just wanted to yell really loud EVERYONE SLOW DOWN!!!!!

Instead I really enjoy going thrifting and to estate sales. It’s like a kind of game trying to find amazing pieces, it’s much more like hide and seek than going to the mall. The mall has 20 of the same thing that you can go and look up online before you go, whereas with vintage/thrifting there is maybe one thing, and it might fit you, and it might be nice and it might be what you are looking for. It’s so much fun!

I am also fully obsessed with Etsy, and although I don’t buy much I sure do waste a good chunk of time on many vintage/handmade stores there. I also have been loving searching for sewing patterns and DIY ideas. I find myself drooling over Megan Nielsen patterns and vintage lots on ebay.

BUT I DON’T REALLY BUY VERY MUCH AT ALL. Partially because I am between jobs and the other reason is because I really do want my consumption curbed. Before I started slowing down my fashion I would have bought so many ridiculous things at the spur of the moment. Now I take so much time to shop its probably annoying. I have realized though, that my wardrobe is not exactly what I want it so some spending must occur. Plus, if there is an amazing vintage dress that fits me perfectly it’s obviously meant to be.

I used to just browse the mall about 1 time a week, not really consciously, sometimes I would come out with something that generally would be too expensive or not fit well and I may wear once or twice; it was always on sale, always from a fast fashion joint and never made me feel good. Now, I leave my local thrift store which donates all the funds to the humane society, or a vintage shop run by the sweetest locals and feel so HAPPY about my consumption. I feel like that right there is the definition of SLOW CONSUMPTION. Being aware of it, enjoying it and getting a thrill out of it, not the kind of high you get by scanning your American Express every other day, but the kind you get knowing that your consumption is going to something greater than you.

What is your advice to someone looking to make the switch to slowing down?

I say give yourself a 30 day challenge. They are always fun and if you fail you’ve only failed a small challenge. Always make your goal personal and stick to it. If you are not a very self-regulating individual you may need a friend help you. I mean slowing down your fashion consumption is a little like quitting smoking. Some people get a sort of ‘shopper’s high’ buying stuff all the time, sometimes you need a support group to get over it.

I recommend that your 30 day challenge be to try to not buy anything for a month and use what you have in the backs of your closet, be more creative and utilize social media to help you decide what to wear (I personally love using the iPhone app GO TRY IT ON to help decide what to wear).
Another good option is to just do a little more research on the brands in your closet. I think you will be surprised how many are ‘slow’ and how many ARE NOT AT ALL. It may not sway you either way but it is another way of just becoming more aware of what you are doing day to day, which is the whole idea of the Slow Movement.

The passion, personality, and sense of humor that Rachel brings to her personal challenge is certain to inspire many to join the Slow Movement in large and small ways: either taking the plunge to not buy new for a year or to simply reevaluate what one already owns before purchasing anything new.

Follow the rest of Rachel’s Year of Slow Fashion on her blog, facebook, and Twitter.
Also, be sure to check out Rachel’s favorite local designer, Tenden on Etsy!

Images courtesy of Rachel Bethke, The Year of Slow Fashion.

In our time off we have reassessed what is most important to our eZine and to the Slow Fashion movement. Now, with a renewed sense of commitment and boost to our motivation [thanks to dear friends and Slow Fashion enthusiasts] we are ready for more. We would like to continue to share the principles of slow fashion and resources with you, our readers; and just hopefully inspire you to change the world starting in your own closet.

Stepping up from our casual opinion editorial style, our new format has a stronger focus on more refined, informative, and scholarly articles. Below you will find how future topics are divided into the new categories:

• Features [special feature articles]
• Headlines [industry & environmental news and announcements]
• Interviews [interviews with designers, authors, and more]
• Publications [reviews of books, scholarly papers, and reading lists]
• Resources [slow fashion tips, how to’s, and resources]
• Reviews [slow fashion designer and retailer reviews]

And just like our motto, we are going for “quality over quantity”. Of course, some months we may be more prolific than others, but everything we bring you is guaranteed to be great.

You will find that we have cleaned up the website too, not only for a fresher look, but to make navigation a little easier as well. Rest assured, all the old content is still there; searchable by title, author, date, and/or tags but has been sorted neatly into our new master categories. So, poke around, read through some old articles, stay tuned for our new ones, and join in the conversation!

… but what constitutes ‘fashion’ anyways? Perhaps it’s all in the eye of the beholder, but we certainly don’t think these are it:

Image snapped on cell outside of a Scoops Ice Cream in Pennsylvania by Nicole.

Fast foods have everything to do with impulse and almost nothing to do with satisfaction. This guarantees that customers keep coming back … Fast fashion is a lot like fast food. It delivers up-to-the minute styles at low prices. Consumers chase trends and, in the long run, spend more for less quality. The world’s resources get chewed up and spat out.

Ellen Agger & Alleson Kase [founders of Tammachat -- ethically & slowly produced textiles]

Image copyright Ellen Agger 2011.

Most recently, the choices that I make and how they represent our company are top of mind. When Rachael Roewe, and I co- founded {made} we wanted to give access to something better to a broader market. We were tired of big box stores and questioning how products were made that we were bringing into our homes. The comfort of knowing where and how something was made is what drives us. As the company has grown, so has my conviction to make better choices about consuming in both my personal and professional life. I want both to reflect the principles on which {made} was founded. Changing my habits with wardrobe consumption was the easy part. I love resale and thrift stores. I’m new to buying sustainable/organic ones, but I’m a veteran thrift hunter. I know the half price tags days in all the thrift shops in a twenty mile radius from my home. I love the story behind clothes, thinking about where they have been, who’s worn them, and saving them from the landfill. I like to feel their energy. And I like to add to their story, I feel more connected.

It’s all the little things I can’t find at thrift stores that makes me wince with turmoil –do I choose convenience or conviction? When I need office labels, tape, or glue, I have historically bought what’s readily available to me. I’ve never even googled USA made or sustainable office products. But I will now. For most of us, it seems to come down to this: I’m at the store right now and if I save time and money here, maybe I could put my efforts to better use elsewhere: in the garden, in the kitchen, in my neighborhood. Or should I use all of my time and resources to find the absolutely most eco-friendly material? Or is my best enough?

I want to be transparent about my work and yet, realistic. If my jewelry board is made from salvaged wood, the hangers are made in the USA, but if I can’t find USA-made nails and the silver leaf is made in China, am I cheating my brand? Will others embrace my work for being honest about my materials, understanding that I am trying to the best of my ability with what is currently available? I’m a capitalist and not an isolationist. Some things just simply aren’t made here anymore. I do want to support a global economy but on better terms. Simply put, I want the resources from around the globe to be made from sustainable practices and fair wages paid to those making the products. I try my best to use sustainable materials and when there are no other options, I vow to stay abreast of better made materials and incorporate them as I can.

As for that “how-to manual” about living in a world comprised solely of organic food, sustainable materials, and ethically made products, I think the answer is it’s not out yet, but will be soon. Until then, I know we are part of the change of the new way of living: a way that we can feel good about and be assured that we are not causing more harm than good. So for now, each of our individual best efforts is better than nothing. I’m proud to be a part of the revolution for better and so is {made}.

____________

About {made} –

{made} was founded by Tiffany Ralston & Rachael Roewe. Their goal is to provide access to
hand-crafted wares {made} better through their online marketplace, www.madecommunity.com
The site connects eco-friendly artists with eco-conscious consumers. {made} promotes the site, onboards
artists, and manages business functions such as order fulfillment, inventory management, and payment
processing. These services leave {made}’s artist partners to focus on what they love and do best – creating
beautiful, and functional art that we can all feel good about.

____________

Just think, every Costco in the nation likely has a similar rack of these shapeless black dresses made, shipped, and sold in bulk. Is it a good basic staple at an affordable price? or a bad decision too ‘cheap’ to pass up? You decide.

Image courtesy of Jessica Bourland.

Whether the goal is to use fewer chemicals, cure dandruff, tame difficult hair, or save money, more and more people are turning to natural shampoo alternatives and believe it or not — even skipping shampooing all together. Many feel that trading sulfate-based shampoo for natural shampoo makes hair more manageable and improves scalp health. Some even claim that natural methods cure dandruff, flaking, split ends, and even hair loss — and while all the positive effects of natural shampoos may not have been tested extensively in clinical studies, the ingredients in regular shampoo have been tested and the results are alarming:

The most commonly used detergent is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). This type of detergent is found in all sorts of cleansers from body wash to engine degreasers. Although it is still on the FDA’s “Generally Regarded as Safe” list, SLS and SLES have been found to cause skin damage, diarrhea, labored breathing, and eye irritation. According to studies done by the American College of Toxicology, both SLS and SLES may cause malformation in children’s eyes — and despite this study most adult shampoos and some children’s shampoos (such as L’Oreal Kids) still contain SLS.

Shampoos that claim to ‘reduce buildup’ typically contain stripping agents designed to remove excess oil and dulling waxy or dirty residue. Among the most commonly used stripping agents are: propylene glycol (PG), polyethylene glycol (PEG), and isopropyl alcohol. PG is a particularly scary solvent that is also used in antifreeze. In many applications PG is used to break down protein, yet hair and skin are made of protein! Not only does PG strip out oils, wax, and silicone (common conditioning agents), but it has the potential to cause skin irritation and hair follicle damage. PEG is even a common ingredient in other household products that claim to remove grease such as spray-on oven cleaner. And although it is an effective oil-removing agent in shampoo PEG also known to be damaging to the immune system and potentially carcinogenic. Finally, isopropyl alcohol is not only drying to your hair but a hazardous solvent in high concentrations. Isopropyl alcohol is a petroleum-derived substance that is said to be dangerous if inhaled or ingested and exposure can cause: headaches, flushing, dizziness, nausea, and vomiting.

Meanwhile, conditioning agents are often added to counter the drying effects of solvent ingredients, to make hair “more manageable” or lustrous. Even if a shampoo that is not labeled as ‘shampoo plus conditioner’ may contain any number of oils, waxes, polymers, or even silicones. Many shampoos contain silicone emollients like: dimethicone and quaternium-80. Silicones are known to coat hair and skin creating an air proof barrier — and while it might create a beautifully smooth texture on skin or hair for a short time, it has been shown to not allow the absorption of oxygen on the skin and restrict the release of toxins; some studies have also indicated that it may accumulate in the liver and lymph nodes! While most scientists agree that silicone is not harmful in personal care and cosmetic products, the use of these items tend to require the use of the aforementioned dangerous stripping agents in shampoo — in a constant circle of thick buildup and dangerous cleaning agents.

But that is not all — In the attempt to make shampoo last longer on the shelf and to prevent the growth of bacteria or fungus from months of storage even before it is sold, companies add preservative ingredients — the most common of which is formaldehyde. In clinical studies formaldehyde has been proven to cause nasal and lung irritation, rashes, and allergies. Additionally, formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Formaldehyde is often disguised in your shampoo labeled as imidazolidinyl urea or dmdm hydantoin which, although different chemicals, both release formaldehyde. Other side effects of exposure to formaldehyde or formaldehyde-donors can include dizziness, headaches, coughing, and can trigger asthma. Phthalates are another commonly used preservative ingredient which has been proven to interfere with the hormone system. Also, Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) — sometimes erroneously referred to methylisothiazoline on many ingredient lists — is commonly used in shampoos to prevent bacterial growth. MIT is a known neurotoxin that have been shown to cause damage to brain cells in animal and in-vitro studies.

In addition to all the other chemical ingredients in shampoo, companies use additives to create a better consistency and texture. There are three common additives that are designed to produce a foaming texture: diethanolamine (DEA), momoethanolamine (MEA), and triethanolamine (TEA). Recent studies have exposed DEA, MEA, and TEA not only as extremely carcinogenic but absorbable through the skin. According to Dr. Samuel Epstein, Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois, “repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of two cancers – liver and kidney cancers”.

Do we really want to lather, rinse and repeat daily with such dangerous chemicals?

Armed with this knowledge, a natural shampoo should be a natural choice; and there are numerous natural shampoos or shampoo alternatives available that are right for your hair and your lifestyle!

Many people enjoy shampoo’s ease-of-use and can simply replace their chemical-filled shampoo with organic or natural varieties. Whether you are battling dandruff, dry, oily, knotty, curly, or flat hair — there are natural and chemical-free shampoo alternatives for each need. Look for brands like: Avalon Organics, Burt’s Bees, Dr. Bronner’s, Dr. Hauschka’s and Yarok. Which can be found in natural and health food stores as well as online. And while some may cost a little more than conventional shampoos, they clean just as well, come in different formulas to treat each type of hair, and are well-worth the piece of mind.

If you prefer the slow, home-made shampoo alternatives you’ll certainly enjoy low price, ease of use, and great results. There are a million-and-one recipes out there that include ingredients like: baking soda, vinegar, yogurt, fruit, avocado, oils, lemon juice, rose water, or chamomile — yum! These ingredients are much more gentle, totally natural, and sound downright tasty. Combined in different ways, simple household ingredients can become a shampoo that is tailored perfectly to your hair type — Directions to make your own shampoo can be found online.

If you are worried about the hidden effects of your shampoo on your health then it is time to start looking for more natural alternatives to make your hair look and feel amazing without the chemicals.

Image courtesy of Smart Style Guide.

Quilts are a symbol of slow life — for ages quilters have stitched together scraps from cherished garments rendered un-mendable, combined with love and attention they become a new treasured item that only gets better with time.

Although the weather is getting warmer, you can still slow down and snuggle up with a special quilt — wrap up in a quilt on a frosty spring morning with a cup of tea, use one for a colorful tablecloth, or take a quilt for a sunny picnic in the grass!

Quilts are undoubtedly the ultimate slow-home accessory:

Images courtesy of Quietude, Philigry, bead and buttons, Olive and Ollie, Angry Chicken,
A life in lists, bringing design home, Runningtowardstillness, two little dicky birds, ManMade,
Blue is Bleu, believe magic, sew love to sew, Rabbit Style News, What’s THAT Gonna Be?,
and noelleodesigns.

If we can unclamp our imaginations and recognise that creating products which foster long term value in society more broadly actually benefits our businesses, then maybe we will stop sabotaging our sector’s prospects for sustainability.

Kate Fletcher [Author of “Sustainable Fashion & Textiles”, Sustainable Designer, Slow Fashion Consultant, Public Speaker & Reader at London College of Fashion’s Center for Sustainable Fashion]