How TO Grow with Speciality Farms

Top Crops for Small Vegetable Gardens

2021-11-16T10:06:00.006-06:00

Thinking of moving to apartment or condo

Growing a small vegetable garden is like living in a small house: It's not as easy as it looks. One of the keys to success is making good plant choices. Choose compact, productive plants that take up less space yet still provide plenty to harvest.

I had to rethink my vegetable garden. No longer could I grow anything that piqued my interest. I had to become much more selective.

It took a few years of whittling down my list to come up with the crops I grow every year in my small garden plot. I start with a foundation of tried-and-true favorites: lettuce, basil, and tomatoes. Yet I leave space to try a few new varieties each year. To supplement my harvest, Below are a few of my recommendations, along with those from seed companies that conduct extensive trials to deliver the best varieties.

Basil

Every gardener plants sweet basil, and for good reason. The tiny aromatic leaves awaken the senses, adding bright flavor to pesto, salad dressings and more. There are more than 80 varieties of basil, including a few "miniature" types that are perfect for small-scale gardens. A variety called Pistou is the most diminutive form of sweet basil, ideal for planters or window boxes. The tight green mounds can be used for edging in a larger planter.

Basil is easy to grow from seed, and available from most seed catalogs.

Chard

"Cut-and-come-again" is a welcome quality in any garden plant. Harvesting leaves actually encourages more growth. With an upright growth habit and brightly colored stems, rainbow chard works well in tight spaces.

Because chard is in the beet family, it is easy to grow from seed, but note that the seedlings will need to be thinned to ensure proper spacing. For small containers, it is easier to start with transplants instead of seeds — no thinning required.

Eggplant

Oriental eggplants are known for their compact habit, making them a good choice for pots and planters. Choosing a favorite among the dozens of varieties is difficult. Gwenael Engelskirchen, trials manager at High Mowing Organic Seeds, says Ping Tung Long eggplant earns a spot at the top of her list. "Slender purple eggplants hang from compact plants of this lovely heirloom variety, " she says. "The plant stays small but has the potential of producing a lot of eggplants." Because the 10"-long fruit is narrow, it's ideal for slicing and cubing; skin is tender and the flavor is mild.

Sow seeds indoors and transplant to pots and planters when warm weather arrives. Tip: When starting seed for eggplants and peppers, use bottom heat for better germination. Place seedling trays on a germinating mat set at 85 degrees F., or on top of the refrigerator, where the heat from the appliance will provide warmth.

Hot Peppers

Hot peppers are the ultimate ornamental edible for window boxes and compact gardens. The plants are ornamental and the fruit is long-lasting. "It's hard to pick a favorite," says Nina Burokas of Sustainable Seed Company, who admits that she is crazy about all hot peppers. "Black Hungarian pepper is so colorful that it not only belongs in the garden, but on the patio in pots as well." Purple flowers highlight the emerald-green foliage. During the season, the fruit turns green, then black and finally red. The plants can grow to about 30-36", which makes them a little big for a window box, but fine for larger containers. For smaller plants, try their Patio Fire pepper seeds. The narrow fruit grows upward, resembling flames. Color goes from yellow to orange and matures red.

Tomatoes

Fast-growing and prolific, cherry tomatoes can overwhelm a trellis in short order. However, growers have introduced compact varieties that are tame enough for smaller spaces. Start from seed or find plants in a local nursery.

For instance, Cherry Cascade grows happily in a hanging basket and produces hundreds of tomatoes. The variety is recommended by Susan Romanoff of Gardener's Supply Company, who grows them in an elevated raised bed in her northern Vermont garden. "Perfect scale! Slightly draping but not so long or heavy that they reach low to the ground," she says. Fruit ranges from the size of a marble up to a golf ball. It has good tomato flavor — not candy-sweet like some cherry tomatoes. Plants are relatively tolerant of drought and the fruit is less prone to the cracking , which frequently afflicts the full-sized tomato varieties.

Mesclun Mixes

The word mesclun means miscellaneous greens, attributed to wild weeds once foraged by peasants in Europe to supplement their limited diets. Many of the mixtures found today are made up of quick-growing arugula and mustards, and are not ideal for containers. However, you can create your own container-friendly mesclun. Consider Italian endives and escaroles, which can be harvested leaf by leaf. Or, try purslane, which has unusual, succulent leaves that are high in omega 3 fatty acids. Seed companies offer mixes that are suited to the season, so you can start with a spring mix. After harvest, replant with a blend that can withstand summer heat, followed by a third planting of fall greens, such as cold-tolerant kale and collards.

Seed for mesclun is widely available, including mixes such as Wrinkled Crinkled Crumpled Cress and Purple Rapa Pop Mix. By the way, Purple Rapa is a cold-season salad mix selected for solid purple leaves, cold hardiness, and disease resistance. Best color will manifest between the fall and spring equinoxes

Lettuce

Lettuce comes in all shapes, sizes and colors, and the key to a great-looking container garden is to mix it up. Plant different types of lettuce, starting with Little Gem, a mini romaine that forms a sweet, dense heart. Add some Merlot, a striking red butterhead, and Lolla Rossa, a loose-leaf type with frilly leaves.

Lettuce typically grows from seed to salad in 45 days. Plan to harvest leaf-by-leaf to stretch out season, or have a successive crop ready to fill in the gap.

Edible Flowers

A natural choice for containers and small-space gardens, edible flowers add unmistakable charm. My favorites include nasturtiums, violas, and calendula, which can be planted early in the season and will continue blooming all summer long if kept picked. The signet marigold, Lemon Gem, is a mainstay in my garden because of the aromatic ferny foliage that releases a lemon scent.

If you don't find transplants, most edible flowers are easy to grow from seed. Just push the seeds into the soil where they are to grow.

Pole Beans

Another way to make use of space: grow vertical. Choose a vine, such as pole beans, which will happily climb a trellis. My favorite is the Italian heirloom Trionfo Violetto. This ornamental and edible plant has lush green foliage with purple undersides. By midsummer, a multitude of lavender flowers appear, followed by thin, purple-podded beans.

Pole beans are easy to start from seed, planted right where they are to grow.

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2021-02-27T04:21:00.012-06:00

According to most onion info, the number of leaves the plant produces before the days get shorter determines the size of the onion. Therefore, the earlier you plant the seed (or plants), the bigger the onions you will grow. If your onions won’t grow big, keep reading for more onion facts that can help you fix that. Facts About Onions Onions are good for us. They are high in energy and water content. They are low in calories. Onions increase circulation, lower blood pressure, and prevent blood clotting. The list of onion facts can go on and on; however, one of the most important facts about onions is how to grow them.

Facts About Onions

Onions are good for us. They are high in energy and water content. They are low in calories. Onions increase circulation, lower blood pressure, and prevent blood clotting. The list of onion facts can go on and on; however, one of the most important facts about onions is how to grow them. Growing Onion Info Onions can be grown from seeds, sets, or plants. Seeds develop in summer once flowers cease blooming. Seeds can be sown directly in the garden in very early spring, with onion plants ready for harvest by late summer/early fall. Onion sets, which are grown from the previous year’s seed, are usually about the size of marbles when harvested and stored until the following spring, when they can be planted. Onion plants are also started from seed but are only about the size of a pencil when they are pulled, at which point, the onion plants are sold to gardeners.

Growing Onion Info

Onions can be grown from seeds, sets, or plants. Seeds develop in summer once flowers cease blooming. Seeds can be sown directly in the garden in very early spring, with onion plants ready for harvest by late summer/early fall. Onion sets, which are grown from the previous year’s seed, are usually about the size of marbles when harvested and stored until the following spring, when they can be planted. Onion plants are also started from seed but are only about the size of a pencil when they are pulled, at which point, the onion plants are sold to gardeners
Sets and plants are generally the most popular methods of growing onions. Common onion info tells us that it is often easier growing big onions from plants than from seed. Help, My Onions Won’t Grow Big – Growing Big Onions It is just one of those onion facts that the key to growing big onions is early planting, with fertilizer or compost. Seeds can also be sown in trays and left in a cool location until the seedlings reach about 1-2 inches tall, at which time they can be placed in deep biodegradable pots filled with loose, composted soil. Place seedlings at the top and keep pots somewhat dry to encourage more extensive rooting as they move down in search of moisture. Plant the pots in the garden in early spring, and as they absorb moisture from the soil, they will eventually decompose, encouraging a secondary root system near the soil surface, which will produce larger onions. Onion sets and onion plants require loose soil and should be planted early (end of February or March). Dig a shallow trench, working in compost or fertilizer for big onions. Likewise, raised beds can be implemented. Plant the onions about an inch deep and 4-5 inches apart. Wider spacing makes it easier to control weeds, which can compete for nutrients. Keep the area weed free; otherwise, the onions won’t grow big. Once onion bulbs begin to swell (in late spring), ensure that they remain above ground. Onion plants will continue to increase in size until the middle of summer, at which time their tops begin to fade. Once these tops have completely faded and fallen over, onion plants can be pulled and left in the sun to dry for several days before storing in a cool, dry area.

Growing onions doesn’t have to be frustrating. Start them early, follow the above big onion facts and remember to add compost or fertilizer for big onions.

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Can You Grow Water Chestnuts?

2021-02-18T22:44:00.011-06:00

Can You Grow Water Chestnuts? Growing water chestnuts are primarily cultivated in China and imported to the United States and other countries. Rarely, have attempts been made to cultivate in the U.S.; however, it has been tried in Florida, California and Hawaii with limited commercial success. Water chestnuts require controlled irrigation and 220 frost free days to reach maturity. Corms are planted 4-5 inches deep in soil, 30 inches apart in rows, and then the field is flooded for a day. After that, the field is drained and the plants are allowed to grow until they are 12 inches high. Then, once again, the field is flooded and remains so for the summer season. Corms reach maturity late in the fall wherein the field is drained 30 days prior to harvest. Water chestnuts cannot exist in swamplands or marshlands unless ditches or dikes are in place to control the water levels. That said, the question, “Can you grow water chestnuts?” takes on a bit different meaning. It’s unlikely that the home gardener will have much success growing water chestnuts. However, don’t despair. Most grocers of any size carry canned water chestnuts to satisfy that yen for some crunchiness in your next stir fry.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Water Chestnut Facts – Can You Grow Water Chestnuts In Gardens? https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/water-chestnuts/water-chestnuts-in-gardens.htm

Water Chestnut Facts

There are two plants referred to as water chestnut plants: Eleocharis dulcis and Trapa natans. One is commonly thought to be invasive while the other may be grown and eaten in a number of Asian dishes and stir-fries. Keep reading for more information on these water chestnut plants.

Water Chestnut Facts Trapa natans, sometimes called “Jesuit Nut” or “Water Caltrops,” is a water plant with huge floating leaves grown in ponds. Cultivated in China and commonly used in that cuisine, it is also grown to a lesser extent in Southern Europe and Asia. This type is considered invasive in most areas. E. dulcis is also grown in ponds primarily in China and the edible tuber is then harvested for food. These water chestnut plants are members of the sedge family (Cyperaceae) and are true aquatic plants growing only in water. In the body of this article, we will be focusing on the growing of this type of water chestnut plant. Another water chestnut fact is its nutrition content; water chestnuts are quite high in sugar at 2-3 percent and contain 18 percent starch, 4-5 percent protein, and very little fiber (1 percent). These crunchy delicacies have a slew of other common names such as: waternut, horse’s hoof, matai, hon matai, Kweilin matai, pi chi, pi tsi sui matai and kuro-kuwai.

What is a Water Chestnut?

Growing water chestnuts look like other water rushes with four to six tube-like stems that poke 3-4 feet above the surface of the water. They are cultivated for their 1-2 inch rhizomes, which have crisp white flesh and prized for its sweet nutty flavor. The tubers look somewhat like gladiola bulbs and are dirty brown in color on the outside.

They are extremely valued ingredients in many Asian cuisines as well as culturally. They can be found not only in stir fries, where the crunchy texture is maintained due to the hemicellulos found in the tubers, but also in sweet drinks or syrups. Water chestnuts are also used for medicinal purposes in Asian culture.

Can You Grow Water Chestnuts?

Growing water chestnuts are primarily cultivated in China and imported to the United States and other countries. Rarely, have attempts been made to cultivate in the U.S.; however, it has been tried in Florida, California and Hawaii with limited commercial success. Water chestnuts require controlled irrigation and 220 frost free days to reach maturity. Corms are planted 4-5 inches deep in soil, 30 inches apart in rows, and then the field is flooded for a day. After that, the field is drained and the plants are allowed to grow until they are 12 inches high. Then, once again, the field is flooded and remains so for the summer season. Corms reach maturity late in the fall wherein the field is drained 30 days prior to harvest. Water chestnuts cannot exist in swamplands or marshlands unless ditches or dikes are in place to control the water levels. That said, the question, “Can you grow water chestnuts?” takes on a bit different meaning. It’s unlikely that the home gardener will have much success growing water chestnuts. However, don’t despair. Most grocers of any size carry canned water chestnuts to satisfy that yen for some crunchiness in your next stir fry.

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Planting out some Water chestnuts into a new aquaponic grow bed.. Hopefully we will bet another bumper crop.. Water chestnut harvest, final for 2012.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_EOtD...

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Mushroom

2020-08-16T08:15:00.013-05:00

How to Grow Mushroom:

Mushrooms:

Process of Growing Mushrooms

Growing mushrooms at home is an enjoyable and possibly even profitable hobby. It is not difficult to create an environment that provides mushroom spawn with the conditions and nutrients necessary to produce an ample harvest of mushrooms. You can grow both common and shiitake mushrooms at home, but each type of mushroom has different growth requirements.

Light

Mushrooms cannot extract nutrients from the sun as green plants do, so they do not need light. However, mushrooms do not necessarily need a dark environment to grow. The advantage of growing mushrooms in the dark is that darkness preserves the moisture that mushroom spores need to reproduce. A basement provides ideal conditions for growing common and other button mushrooms, and logs used to grow shiitake mushrooms should be kept out of direct sunlight.

Moisture

Mushrooms, like all fungi, thrive in moist environments. Button mushrooms need moist growing media such as compost or manure. Shiitake mushroom logs should be kept at a moisture level from 35 to 45 percent, which requires soaking for 48 hours in the event the logs become dry. Ideally, a shiitake growing log should have dry bark and moist inner surfaces.

Temperature

Button mushrooms need temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit to grow properly, and strong drafts or dry air can kill them or prevent them from growing. The ideal temperature for growing shiitake mushrooms is between 72 and 78 F, but they can grow in temperatures from 40 to 90 F. Keep shiitake logs in a shaded outdoor area or under trees to preserve their moisture and maintain an ideal temperature. Heaters or fans may be necessary to create the controlled environment button mushrooms require to grow indoors.

Nutrients

Mushrooms synthesize the nutrients they need from organic material. The particular nutrients they need to grow are sugar, starch, lignin, fats, protein and nitrogen. Compost made from manure and straw contains ideal amounts of these nutrients for growing button mushrooms, whereas shiitake are able to extract the nutrients they need from the wood of the logs or sawdust where they're growing. A mixture of corn, peat moss and sand is an alternative to manure and straw.

For your very first attempt, I’d choose either oyster or shiitake mushrooms. We grow both. To grow shiitake mushrooms you’ll need hardwood logs, and for oysters, the requirements vary by variety.

Feeding Your Mushrooms

Mushrooms grow on a substrate, consuming it as they grow their bodies. Each type of mushroom has different substrate requirements. Some mushrooms require hardwood logs or stumps, while others are happy growing on compost, wood chips, grains or straw.
If you’re going to make a profit, the best way to do it is by working with a free and readily accessible substrate. Think about what you have on hand. If you have a woodlot readily accessible, then species of mushrooms that grow on logs are a perfect choice. In suburban environments, compost or wood chip mushrooms are a good choice because you can make your own compost or get free wood chips from a local tree service.

Indoor or Outdoor Mushroom Varieties

Some mushrooms species just aren’t happy indoors. Others do better indoors in controlled environments. Think about whether or not you have indoor growing space available. Can you convert a garage or shed? Do you have a large yard with access to water and good shade for outdoor growing?
In general, indoor mushroom cultivation is considered “safer” because there’s less opportunity for cross contamination. If you do choose to grow mushrooms outdoors, it should be an easy to identify variety with no toxic look-a-likes.
Start simple. If you’ve never grown mushrooms before, start with easy to grow and identify varieties like oyster mushrooms or shiitake mushrooms.

How To Grow Mushrooms In Your Garden (Outdoor Mushroom Beds)

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Bee all U can BEE

2020-08-15T17:48:00.004-05:00

Use the brush or swab to gently swirl around the stamen of the male flower. Carefully swirl the pollen collected on the brush onto the stigma of the female flower. Touch all surfaces around the middle of the female flower. Collect pollen from multiple male flowers for each female flower on the plant.

How to Pollinate Plants

Pollinating by Hand - Method #1

Use this method to hand pollinate

zucchini
squash
pumpkin
watermelon

Identify the male and female flower.

The male flower has a plain stem under the flower.

The female flower has a tiny vegetable under the flower.

Gently snip the male flower off of the plant, leave flower intact if possible.

Snip the petals off the male flower.

Do not touch the stamen on the male flower with your fingers.

Locate a fresh female flower with the petals pushed back.

Gently touch the stamen from the male flower to the stigma on the female flower.

Roll the stamen from the male flower back and forth on the stigma of the
female flower.

Pollinating by Hand - Method #2

Use this method to pollinate vegetable:

small flowers
cucumbers
cantaloupe

Purchase a small watercolor paintbrush or use cotton swabs.

The brush or swabs need to be clean and dry.
pollinate very early in the morning and in dry conditions.
Identify the male and female flower.

Vegetable plants will have more male flowers than female flowers.

Use the brush or swab to gently swirl around the stamen of the male flower.

Carefully swirl the pollen collected on the brush onto the stigma of the female flower.

Touch all surfaces around the middle of the female flower.

Collect pollen from multiple male flowers for each female flower on the plant.

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“Hardening off”

2020-08-15T17:33:00.005-05:00

If we do not do this just right all your work will be for nothing
Speciality Farms

“Hardening off” is the process of moving plants outdoors for a portion of the day to gradually introduce them to the direct sunlight, dry air, and cold nights. ... Harden off gradually, so that seedlings become accustomed to strong sunlight, cool nights and less-frequent watering over a 7-10 day period.

If your seedlings show signs of wilting, give them a light sprinkle of water. The entire process of hardening off will probably take about a week, depending on temperatures and conditions in your area. During this time, your plants are getting thicker and sturdier, better able to adapt to summertime extremes

Great Example:

Everyone wants Tomatoes in the garden

Steps for Hardening Off Tomatoes

Start slowly. For the first day, set plants outside in the shade, next to the house, or in a protected area for an hour or two. ...
Raise exposure. ...
Monitor seedlings. ...
Finally, leave tomatoes out overnight.

1. Check your seedlings’ frost dates. Some plants—onions, for example—may be OK to harden off while there’s still a risk of frost. Others, such as tomatoes, are typically unable to endure those cold extremes. Wait until the advised date before beginning to harden off.

2 . Stop indoor watering or fertilizing. About a week before your seedlings will go outside, suspend any supplemental watering or plant food.

3. Choose your first hardening off spot. Your seedlings need some protection from wind and sun during their first hours outside. You have a couple of options including a shady spot against your home, a table under a tree, or inside a cold frame.

4. Place your seedlings outside for an hour. Mid to late afternoon, move your seedlings to your hardening off spot, just for an hour or two. Make sure that the plants aren’t getting bashed around by the wind, and are protected from any pests or animals.

5. Move your plants back indoors. At the end of the first day’s hardening off time, put your seedlings back inside. If they’re in a cold frame, close and secure the opening.

6. Lengthen the hardening off time. Each day, leave your seedlings outside for an hour more than the previous day, gradually giving them more and more direct sunlight time. At the same time, you can move seedlings to a less sheltered location—further from the house, out from under a tree, or outside the cold frame, for example

7. Protect your seedlings as needed. If temperatures dip during the hardening off time, you may need to bring seedlings inside or close the cover of the cold frame. You can also use row covers to offer extra security and warmth if there’s a hard rain or cold-weather day. Not sure how to construct a row cover? There are many different row cover materials and styles. We have featured two below, hooped and floating, along with two of the most popular materials to use, plastic and spun bound.

8. Extend nighttime hardening off hours. After several days of getting acclimated to daytime conditions, your seedlings will be ready to adapt to nighttime hours, too. Leave them outside longer and longer—always watching temperatures—until they’ve begun to spend the whole night outside.

9. Water as needed. If your seedlings show signs of wilting, give them a light sprinkle of water.
The entire process of hardening off will probably take about a week, depending on temperatures and conditions in your area. During this time, your plants are getting thicker and sturdier, better able to adapt to summertime extremes.

Word: Dog Days
Definition: These are the hottest and most unhealthy days of the year. Also known as Canicular Days, the name derives from the Dog Star, Sirius. The traditional timing of Dog Days is the 40 days beginning July 3 and ending August 11, coinciding with the heliacal (at sunrise) rising of Sirius.

Water the roots not the leaves -

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Ladybugs, or lady beetles

2020-08-06T07:39:00.003-05:00

SUPER STAR - Lady Bugs

Prey of the Ladybug

The favorite foods of ladybugs include aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. They will also prey on eggs of some insects, particularly the European Corn Borer and the Colorado Potato Beetle.
Ladybugs in both the larval and adult stages feast on these insects. Interestingly, a ladybug will devour thousands of aphids in its lifetime!

European Corn Borer

Colorado Potato Beetle

Ladybug's Habitat

Many species of ladybugs are found throughout the United States, although one, the Asian lady beetle, was more recently introduced into the United States. Ladybugs are generally found in agricultural fields, orchards and gardens where their favorite foods, aphids, insects and mealybugs can be found.

Aphids

Mealybugs

In the Fall, ladybugs will gather in large numbers in places where they will spend the winter - usually under rocks, leaves, old fallen trees and any other location sheltered from the weather.
They will sometimes aggregate on the outside of a house in the warmth. If they venture onto or into homes, they may appear to be somewhat of a pest to homeowners, but do not harm them, since they are so beneficial. Take them outside when you find them inside of your home. You may want to seal or caulk cracks and around windows to prevent them from entering your home.

Benefits

Ladybugs, or lady beetles, are considered a beneficial bug which helps rid an area of crop-damaging aphids, mealybugs and other destructive insect pests.

The adult ladybugs feed on these insects. They also lay their eggs among the aphids or other prey so the emerging larvae can feed on the insects, too.
The only time they are considered to be "pests" to people is in the fall when the weather gets cooler, and the Asian lady beetles enter homes and other buildings in large numbers in search of a warm place to overwinter.
Vacuuming these beetles and discarding the bag may be the most effective method of removing these insects from your home. Remember, we don't want to remove them from fields, orchards or gardens since they are so beneficial.

LADY BUG Attacking Aphids

SO LOVE YOUR LADYBUGS - Peace EzE

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Hydroponic Greenhouse

2020-08-05T07:38:00.006-05:00

What to Grow and What Not to Grow

Hydroponic greenhouses can produce larger yields than a traditional greenhouse but for maximum
success the grower must understand what to grow and what not to grow. Some plants may spread
out too much to grow properly in a hydroponic greenhouse. Other plants may be cool weather
plants and will not be able to stand the constant high temperatures that other plants may need to
thrive in. Then there are other plants that need special attention, if you decide to grow
them in a hydroponic greenhouse.

Plants to Grow in a Hydroponic Greenhouse

Strawberries
Strawberries are one fruit that does quite well in this type of growing environment. Plants of this fruit
are compact enough to fit in with the usual layouts of hydroponic greenhouses. You can set the plants
out in a number of configurations and they will still thrive. Also, there are so many varieties to choose
from depending on the size of berry and level of sweetness desired.
Potatoes
Potatoes and other root crops also work well, but only if they are given enough depth to grow
adequately. You have to remember with these crops that they do a lot of their growing in the root
area as well as up in their stems and foliage. If they are cramped for space, it will stunt their growth. You can choose the smaller varieties of the root crops, when available to help offer them enough
depth.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes thrive when grown hydroponically. Of course, they need to have a support system with this
ype of greenhouse setting just as they do in a traditional greenhouse or garden setting. Some varieties
grow larger than other ones though, so choose the type you think you can provide the best support for
in your particular setup. Some other vining veggies that need support include peas, cucumbers and pole
beans.
Mint
There are many varieties of mint that do well in this type of greenhouse, because they enjoy wet
conditions. Mints spread quite a bit and should be given enough space. Other than this requirement, your chosen mint whether it be peppermint, spearmint, ginger mint or another type of mint should
produce nicely for you.
Basil
Basil is another herb to plan to grow in your hydroponic garden setup. The moist conditions provided
to the herb through this system actually enhance its flavor. As with other plants, your yield will most
likely increase with using hydroponic methods of gardening. Many other herbs do well too, but you
need to check the growing conditions they need to make sure before planting them.
Lettuce
Various types of lettuce will provide you with more flavorful harvests. Some people only think of
iceberg variety when lettuce is mentioned, but there is romaine, sweet butter and many more to
choose from for growing your salad greens hydroponically.
Cabbage
Cabbage is one of the cool weather vegetables that does well in this environment. You may need to
adjust growing conditions for the cool weather vegetables. This means you may need to grow the
plants according to their natural seasons. You can change the temperature settings in your greenhouse
according to the crops you decide to cultivate.
Green Beans
Bush-style green beans will adjust quite well with the typical conditions set up in a hydroponic system.
You will be able to harvest plenty for your table and have additional beans to can or freeze. The size
of these is easier to deal with than the pole beans, even though with the right support, as mentioned
earlier, you can also grow pole beans.
Grow What you Eat

You also need to think of which vegetables you and your family will eat when growing them
hydroponically. Remember, your harvests are likely to be larger using this method and therefore, you
will not want to concentrate on crops you do not like to eat. Now, there are some things you
should not or would have a hard time growing in a hydroponic setup.
Plants to Not Grow in a Hydroponic Greenhouse
Plants that take up a great deal of space to grow are impractical to grow in this type of greenhouse.
Watermelon and other melons, squash, and corn are some of these vegetables. They all take a huge
amount of space to grow.

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Growing Herbs

2020-07-31T02:30:00.007-05:00

Growing Herbs Indoors
All Winter

A Look at Window Gardens

Love fresh spaghetti sauce or pesto? Growing herbs indoors lets you have fresh basil and other herbs all year round! Sure, a nice 1 X 4 window garden getting at least 4 or 5 hours of direct light from a sunny window will give you something to pinch here and there. Gardens with mint, rosemary, bay leaf, savory, oregano, chervil, and thyme are some of the easiest to grow this way.

But what if you really need your basil...lots and lots of it? Basil and cilantro need just a bit more light, and really prefer 8 hours or more of direct light each day. In addition to this if you want fresh pesto, just a pinch here and there is not going to cut it. Here's what you can do about it.

Add Light when Growing Herbs Indoors During the Winter

The goal for growing herbs indoors is to use a vegetative light cycle (18 hours on), with at least eight or more of those hours being direct sun or bright artificial light. Whenever the light levels are low, give them a boost. Two or three fluorescent lights above your plants will greatly increase their growth rate and yield. You can grow enough basil for a few servings of pesto now and then, and still have enough fresh herb always at your fingertips.

Conflicting Advise on Feeding Herbs

It has been said that some herbs grow better, or should be grown in, poor soil. The oils in herbs make them special. Very fast growing herbs often grow plain leaves and stems more quickly than they can produce tasty essential oils. Often you will hear "basil grows better in poor soil" or "your basil will taste better if you don't fertilize". What these people really mean is "don't grow your basil too fast" (sorry to pick on basil).

Growing herbs indoors in a container, it is a little different. The plant still needs some food to grow, and when that food runs out you will need to fertilize. However, as you will see in the next two sections, this is all taken into consideration together with the growth habits of your herbs.

Soil Mix for Growing Indoor Herbs

To keep initial growth rates under control when growing herbs indoors, I use a soil mix with just enough nutrients to keep things looking healthy. Having a mix with too many nutrients can make vegetative growth difficult to keep up with. Mix 2 parts sphagnum peat to 1 part perlite, then add 20 percent worm castings to the mix

Watering and Fertilizing

If you feel the top of the soil and it is dry, than you need to water. Another way is to pick up the container and check how heavy it is. When growing herbs indoors you need to have containers with holes in the bottom, and you need to add an inch or so of perlite or gravel to the bottom of each container. Your herbs prefer a quick draining soil. It is best to water thoroughly, but less often. Water the container until some water comes out the bottom.

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Growing Cucumbers

2020-07-31T02:29:00.006-05:00

Keys To Successfully Growing Cucumbers

#1 Plant In A Sunny Location

At the top of the list, sunshine. Cucumbers need the sun, and a lot of it! Locate your crop in an area that receives at least 8 hours of sunlight a day. Much like pumpkins, gourds and zucchini – cucumbers rely heavily on the photosynthesis process to grow the strong vines needed to producing heavy fruiting. No sun, no photosynthesis.

#2 Provide Rich, Fertile, Well Drained Soil

When it comes to growing cucumbers, a sunny location is priority number 1

Cucumbers love rich, fertile, well-drained soil. The more you nutrition you can provide at planting time, the better. We add a few shovelfuls of compost, and a quarter cup of worm castings to each planting hill or container. It creates a rich soil for the young seeds or transplants to get off to a great start. The worm castings / compost combo has made a huge difference in the health and productivity of our plants!

When planting directly into the soil, we plant in slightly tapered hills about 18″ in diameter, 3″ to 4″ high. This helps keep the plant stems out of sitting water during heavy rains or watering.
We prefer planting transplants over seeds. The added growth and strength help give them a better chance to avoid dreaded cucumber beetle attacks. If you are planting transplants, use two plants per hill. If you seed, plant 3 and thin to 2.
Cucumbers, especially bush-style varieties, can be planted in containers as well. Again, be sure start off with a rich, well-drained soil mix to give plants the nutrition they need. Use only one plant per container to avoid draining the soil too quickly of nutrients. Product Link: Worm Castings

#3 Be Careful What You Plant Nearby

What you plant around your cucumbers can play an important role in their productivity. One thing to avoid for sure is planting cucumber crops near potatoes.

Potatoes release a substance in the soil that greatly hinders the growth of cucumbers. Radishes, on the other hand are great, as they help to repel harmful insects like cucumber beetles and aphids that

Aphids

Cucumber Beetles

attack tender cucumber plants. It is also easy to sow a few inexpensive radish seeds around plants. They germinate fast and really do help stave away the beetles.

Nasturtiums and Alyssum are also excellent to plant right alongside your growing cucumbers.
The nasturtiums will help repel and deter a whole host of nuisance insects, while the alyssum acts as a sacrificial plant to beetles, keeping them away off of your cucumbers.

alyssum

Nasturtiums

Growing Cucumbers! When it comes to backyard gardens, cucumbers are right up there with tomatoes as one of the most popular home-grown vegetables.

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How to Grow Asparagus

2020-07-31T02:28:00.005-05:00

Asparagus

When building an asparagus bed, keep in mind that growing asparagus roots need a thick layer of soil protection from the elements and the hazards of cultivation.
How to plant asparagus:

Step 1. Dig a trench a foot deep and 18 inches wide.

Leave a distance of 4 feet, center to center, between the trenches, if planting more than one row of asparagus.

Step 2. At the base of the trench, break up the soil to the depth of a spading fork, around 8-10 inches.

Step 3. Add ½ pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer to each 10 foot stretch of trench in your asparagus bed.

How to plant asparagus--soil preparation in an asparagus bed:

Asparagus thrives in neutral soil, with a pH of about 7.0.
If a soil test shows the trench soil in your asparagus bed is too acid, sweeten it with ground limestone.

Step 4. Then add 4 inches of aged compost in the bottom of the asparagus trench, which will keep the plants well fed for years.
Step 5. To give the roots a solid base to rest on, walk over the soil in the bottom of the trench to firm it.
Step 6. Then rake it to make it level.

Step 7. Fan the asparagus roots out like the arms of an octopus.

Step 8. Lay them at 2 foot spacing along the floor of the trench.

Step 9. Cover the fragile roots gently with 2 inches of garden soil.

Caring for an Asparagus Bed

As the summer progresses, pull in more soil from the sides of the trenches until the asparagus bed is filled in completely.
Every three months or so, dress the rows of growing asparagus with a handful of 10-10-10 fertilizer for each plant.

Harvesting Asparagus Plants

When learning how to plant asparagus, knowing when and how to harvest the fresh tender shoots is most important.

Two years after planting, the one year old roots will have produced a healthy crop.
The growing asparagus will be ready for harvest when the stems are about 8 inches tall and ½ inch or greater in diameter.
Keep the first harvest to a minimum.
This allows as many stems as possible to continue growing and nourish the plants in the following years.
Make it a priority that the growing asparagus be harvested on time.
During warm weather, you will want to harvest every day.
The growing stems quickly send out side branches and foliage, and when this happens the harvest opportunity is lost.
You do not need any special tool for harvesting.
Bend the stems until they break.
Fertilize the bed with 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 immediately after the harvest and again in mid-July and mid-August.
Gardeners who have learned how to plant asparagus, and how to care for an asparagus bed, reap the rewards for many years to come!

Not all the plants can be grown by the same rules. So, if you are thinking to grow some Asparagus crowns, then here you can learn how.

How To do it :
1. Choose a sunny part of the garden with good drainage.
2. Dig a trench and check the pH, which should be 6.5 to 7.5.
3. Plant the crowns about 8 in. deep and 15 in. apart.
4. Cover initially with 2 in. of dirt, and gradually fill the trench as the spears emerge.
5. The edible stems of asparagus rise directly from the ground. Spears that are about 8 in. tall are ready to harvest.
6. Snapping of the spear by hand is easy and protects the plant. You can use a knife, but be careful not to damage developing stems.
7. At the end of the harvest, allow the asparagus plants to form ferns. These help transfer energy to the roots for good spear development the next season.

Effective against aphids, caterpillars, potato beetles, flea beetles and more! There are two types of asparagus beetle. Both target their namesake plant and do harm to newly emerged spears as well as late season foliage. The common asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) attacks both garden variety and wild plants.

Asparagus Beetles on Asparagus

The asparagus beetle is a sporadic pest that can be aggravating for asparagus growers throughout Virginia. The shoot damage not only reduces the quality of the spears but this beetle is also unique in the pest world, as it is an insect that is controlled because the eggs laid on the shoots is objectionable to consumers. With a little background on this pest most growers are able develop an effective pest management program.
In some parts of Virginia, asparagus growers are already beginning to cut some spears in their fields. Asparagus beetles should start appearing on asparagus sometime in April. Two species of asparagus beetles are found in Virginia, the common asparagus beetle, Crioceris asparagi (L.) [Fig. 1], and the spotted asparagus beetle Crioceris duodecimpunctata (L.) [Fig. 2]. Adults of the common asparagus beetle are 1/4 inch long, metallic blue to black and have wing covers with three or four white spots and reddish margins. The thorax is red and usually marked with two black spots. The spotted asparagus beetle is about 1/3 inch long, orange with 12 spots on its wing covers. Larvae of both are olive green to dark gray with a black head and legs. Larvae measure about 1.5 mm at hatching, and as they develop they become plump and attain a length of about 8 mm. Both have eggs that are approximately 1 mm long, oblong, shiny, black, and are attached by one end to asparagus spears.

Asparagus beetle

Spotted asparagus beetle

Adults and larvae chew on shoots and foliage. Eggs are laid on shoots around the time of harvest. Presence of eggs on the spears is objectionable to some and may impact marketability, although the eggs themselves cause no damage.
Lifecycle: Asparagus beetles overwinter as adults in plant debris. In spring the beetles first feed on the tender asparagus spears and tips of buds, subsequently depositing their brown to black eggs on spears. In about a week the larvae hatch and join the adults feeding on the spears and ferns. After the larvae mature through four instars (in approximately 8 days) they enter the soil beneath plants and pupate, emerging from the soil as adult beetles in 5-10 days. Later in the season another generation of eggs will be laid on the stems and foliage of the asparagus plants. In Virginia there are two generations per year.
Management Options:Cultural Control. Harvest spears as early as possible. Beetles are attracted to plants with an abundance of foliage; therefore, growers can leave a small portion of their crop unharvested as a decoy for beetles to congregate, while the rest of the crop is harvested. Thoroughly remove all plant debris from garden and surrounding areas after harvest to eliminate beetle overwintering sites.
Organic/Biological Control. Spray or dust with botanical insecticides when larvae are first noticed feeding on plants. Important natural enemies of asparagus beetles include a tiny parasitic wasp, Tetrastichus asparagi Crawford, which attacks eggs, and several species of lady beetles (which feed on asparagus beetle eggs and small larvae).
Chemical Control. Treat with a registered insecticide, such as Ambush or Pounce (permethrin), Sevin, Lannate, or Malathion, when beetles begin to lay eggs (usually late April), or when beetle larvae are feeding on the foliage (in the summer). Because asparagus spears are harvested almost daily, it is important to use an insecticide with little residual activity. Be sure to follow the necessary wait period between insecticide application and the days before you can harvest again.

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How and when to water plants

2020-07-31T02:27:00.010-05:00

Watering Plants in the Morning:

The very best time to water plants is in the early morning, while it is still cool. This will allow the water to run down into the soil and reach the roots of the plant without too much excess water lost to evaporation. Watering in the early morning will also make the water available to the plants throughout the day so that the plants will be able to deal better with the heat of the sun.

The second best time to water a vegetable garden is in the late afternoon or early evening. If you are watering vegetables in late afternoon, the heat of the day should have mostly passed, but there should still be enough sun left to dry the plants a bit before night falls.

What I do is in the morning I walk Bailey and then I go for my walk. I water the Plants when I get back around 7am. I turn my water hose on shower each plants get about 1\2 gal..

Afternoon We wait until the sun is blocked and shade is covering our plants we water once again. If you are watering vegetables in late afternoon, the heat of the day should have mostly passed, but there should still be enough sun left to dry the plants a bit before night falls. Watering plants in the late afternoon or early evening also cuts down on evaporation and allows the plants several hours without sun to take up water into their system.

I Build a Raised Garden Bed for each plant so when I water in the afternoon I try not to spray the leaves . The beds I make soaks up the water and hold moister. I do not us wood why because you had to cut a tree. I know I care it to far but come on. One why I use leaves and pine straw. Hay is anther why to build up a raised bed .

I work with you so you will be a happy Farmer - Super Star

If you want a raised bed we can make it :) But if you want it for the look - Can do attitude :)

See a step-by-step creating a raised bed garden.

Pick the perfect spot.
Choose the material for your raised bed.
Determine bed size and layout.
Build your raised beds.
Line the bottom of your beds.
Fill your raised beds with soil.
Plant your veggies.

Spot -Material -Plant

If you go some place and you asked a family member or friend to water and they forget you should be okay -- Hey its my super soil no joke it that good .

Now one of the main things about Speciality Farms:
I will be asking questions what you like to eat, because you want your garden big enough so you can have vegetables to eat but not to big that you waste. If your garden is too big it becomes a job… We don’t want that now do we… its about mother earth. Today am picking cucumber and squash. super star day.

TIP & Trick TIME :
Sprinkler
Poke or drill holes in one side of an empty, clean 2-liter plastic bottle to create a yard and garden sprinkler. Add a female hose end, a female swivel adapter and hose washers to connect it directly to the garden hose.

Hey don't you use to much water doing this lazy bean set your timer. we live where we have water We have brother and sister that water is a shortage.. so Be cool on the water this a great idea to recycle the bottle but don't waste mother earth water resources Peace EzE

Harvest time woooooo

TIP:

Why say thanks for the rain. The plants we grow, the animals we raise, and the requirements of the human body to stay hydrated are all dependent on water…clean water. Rainwater fills streams, rivers, and lakes. ... Rain is the lifeblood of human existence, of life on our mother earth - So when it rains lets dance like no one is watching.

Best Way to Water

Focus on the root . Remember that it's the roots that need access to water, not the leaves. Wetting the leaves is a waste of water and can promote the spread of disease. Peace EzE

Rain barrels capture water from a roof and hold it for later use such as on lawns, gardens or indoor plants. Collecting roof runoff in rain barrels reduces the amount of water that flows from your property. It's a great way to conserve water and it's free water for use in your landscape. Rainwater is better for your plants and soil. ...You'll have your own water source in times of drought or watering restrictions. .. You'll help to reduce runoff pollution. Peace EzE

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How to Grow Your Own Peanuts

2020-07-31T02:27:00.009-05:00

Did you know that peanuts are not nuts at all. Actually, they are the seeds of a leguminous plant related to peas and beans.

Although considered a southern, warm-weather crop, peanuts have been known to grow as far north as southern Canada.

Shell four peanuts and place them on top of the soil; then cover with one inch of soil. Plants will sprout quickly. Transplant seedlings outside. To plant outside, place the peanut seeds two inches deep and eight inches apart in loose, well-drained soil.

Planting Peanuts

Peanuts have a long growing season (ranging from 100 to 130 frost-free days); they’re planted a few weeks after the average last frost date in the spring and often dug up anytime after the first of September.
It’s important to select a site that receives full sun.
Plastic row covers are recommended to protect the young plants from spring frosts.
To grow peanuts, you will actually start with the the shells of fresh, un-roasted peanuts.
To start inside, fill a large, four-inch-deep plastic bowl ⅔ full of moist potting soil. Shell four peanuts and place them on top of the soil; then cover with one inch of soil. Plants will sprout quickly. Transplant seedlings outside.
To plant outside, place the peanut seeds two inches deep and eight inches apart in loose, well-drained soil. (Add sand and aged compost to soil to loosen.)

Caring for Peanut Plants

When the plants are six inches high, cultivate around them to loosen the soil so that the pegs will penetrate it easily.
Then, hill them as you would potatoes and mulch with two inches of straw or grass clippings.
Small, yellow, pea-like flowers will develop along the lower part of the stem. After the flowers fade, the ovaries will swell, start to grow toward the ground, and then push into the soil.
Peanuts are harvested before frost, when the plant yellows.
Dig out the entire plant with a spading fork, carefully shake off most of the soil, and then hang to dry indoors for about a month.
The “nut” can be enjoyed raw or roasted to perfection by baking shelled or un-shelled in a 350° F oven for 20 minutes.

Did You Know: It takes about 540 peanuts to make a 12-ounce jar of peanut butter.

HOW to COOK PEANUTS

Place the oil, peanuts and salt into a wok and stir-fry over medium heat for 2 minutes.
Turn the heat down and continue to stir-fry for 4 minutes or until the peanuts turn light golden inside. Remove and transfer to a dish.
Cool to room temperature (about 20 minutes) and serve.

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How to Grow Okra

2020-07-31T02:24:00.005-05:00

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Okra

Planting

You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date look this up on google with your zip code
You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold fram until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.

a cold frame is a transparent-roofed enclosure, built low to the ground, used to protect plants from adverse weather, primarily excessive cold or wet. The transparent top admits sunlight and prevents heat escape via convection that would otherwise occur, particularly at night.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.

Care

Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly.

Soil amendments and preparing soil for planting

- Speciality Farms Worm Casting Composting we have super soil -

When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.

Pests/Diseases

Aphids

Corn earworms

Stinkbugs

Harvest/Storage

The first harvest will be ready about 2 months after planting.
Harvest the okra when it’s about 2 to 3 inches long. Harvest it every other day.
Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife; if the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the okra because most varieties are covered with tiny spines that will irritate your skin, unless you have a spineless variety. Do not worry: this irritation will not happen when you eat them.
To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer. You can then prepare the okra any way you like throughout the winter months.

Its time to EAT

In a large cast iron skillet, heat oil over medium heat.
Caramelize onion, sautéing 10-15 minutes until golden brown.
Add okra, water, and salt.
Cook 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until water has evaporated and okra is tender.

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Growing Sugar Snap Peas

2020-07-31T02:23:00.004-05:00

The English pea and the snow pea have been around for thousands of years. The sugar snap pea, however, is the young and improved offspring of these two ancient varieties. This edible pod is sweet and crisp like a snow pea yet produces plump seeds like a shelling pea. Created by Calvin Lamborn in the late 1960's, sugar snap peas prefer conditions similar to other peas.

How to Plant Sugar Snap Peas

Plant peas early in the spring. They can take a frost and will grow through a snow blanket. Ideal germination temperatures are between 45-55°F (7-12°C). Place them in full sun and well draining soil. Amend the soil with 1-3 inches of compost worked in, avoid nitrogen heavy fertilizers.

Soak pea seeds overnight to speed germination. You can inoculate the soaking water with rhizobial bacteria found at garden supply stores. This bacteria forms a symbiotic relationship with peas and beans to supply nitrogen to the pea plant and surrounding plants.

Inoculant can also be added directly to the soil, though most healthy organic soils will already contain it. EzE SuperSoil

Directly plant peas outdoors 1 1/2 inches deep and 2 inches apart in rows. Planting them along a wire fenceline allows them to climb the fence. Otherwise keep in mind they will need a trellis to support their climbing growth.

Peas have delicate root systems and don’t react well to transplanting. Because they grow so early in the season anyway, there isn’t much of a benefit to starting them indoors.

How to Care for Sugar Snap Peas

Water regularly and avoid letting the soil dry out completely. Build a support trellis using branches, wire fencing, wood, garden twine, or just about anything you have around. The height of the trellis will depend on the growth habits of your pea variety. Some grow taller than others. Here is a list of some popular snap pea varieties:

Ann Snap Pea – Short and Bushy, Sweet, Early Ripener
Magnolia Blossom Tendril – Bi-Color Flowers, Open Growth Habit, 7 Foot tall, 70 Days
Sugar Magnolia Tendril – Purple Pods, Sweet Peas, Ornamental, 8 Foot tall

Bushy varieties like the Ann Snap Pea are the best type for container gardening. Row-trellises work excellent for the taller varieties if planted in rows in the garden. Mulching around the base of plants once the peas are established will help keep the roots cool and the weeds down. Pea roots are shallow so avoid digging at the earth around them.

Harvest and Storage

Sugar snap peas will produce loads of pods for weeks on end if kept healthy in the garden. There’s no need to wait until the peas inside the pod are ready, you can harvest pods as soon as they grow for a sweet treat. That is the beauty of snap peas. Eat them fresh while they’re young, and shell them when they are mature. Use both hands when pulling pods off the vine to give yourself leverage so you don’t rip the vine apart.
The peas inside are ready to harvest when the pods have fully rounded out similar to a shelling pea. They should feel plump and juicy not dry. Sugar snap peas are the traditional pea used in split pea soup, so don’t hesitate to try your hand at drying them in a dehydrator for later recipes.
To store them fresh, leave them in the pod and place them in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to a week. The whole pods or just the peas themselves can both be frozen and later thawed into stir fries and soups.

Do you have to cook sugar snap peas?

Remove and discard the stem end and string from each sugar snap pod. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sugar snap peas, salt and pepper and saute, tossing occasionally for 3 to 5 minutes, until the sugar snap peas are crisp tender.

Snap peas are best eaten raw or briefly cooked, such as in stir-fries or quick sautes. For a simple side dish, steam or blanch snap peas, then season with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper. Although stringless varieties are available, most sugar snap peas need to have the stringy seams removed before eating.

Tips and Tricks

Rotate peas around the garden from year to year, and allow their root systems to compost in place. This releases nitrogen into the soil for the next crop planted. They also feed companion plants while living and will grow happily next to anything that isn’t a pea or a bean.

The most damaging pests in the pea garden are

Slugs

Pea Moths.

If you live in an area prone to pea moths, consider planting early ripening varieties and avoid having your peas mature after the moths wake up for the year.
Slugs can be hand-picked or bated using homemade traps.

Ducks offer great slug control, and once pea plants grow tall they can’t do much damage to the upper fruit.

Powdery mildew can be an issue in wet climates. Space your peas farther apart to allow good airflow in wet climates and avoid using leaf mold as mulch which can carry the fungus.

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How to Grow Blackberries From Seeds

2020-07-31T02:21:00.006-05:00

Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings & from seed-
I will go picking - but if want to try growing -- This is the best way.. Because when picking in wild a lot of other animals LOVE BlackBerry so you may have learn to run or grow your own.

Hope this helps:

Blackberries are hardy plants that are relatively easy to grow. However, growing from seed won't produce berries the first year. The seeds require stratification the first year and will grow the second year.

Step 1

Place damp peat moss in a sandwich bag and put seeds in the peat moss. Close this and put it in your refrigerator for 3 to 5 months. The temperature must be between 33 to 35 degrees F to stratify the seeds. The seeds should start to open up in the cold.

Step 2

Plant the seeds in a flower pot with stones or broken terra cotta in the bottom for drainage. Use a soil made for fruit and mix it with compost. Keep the seeds moist until they start to sprout. Mix in more compost about every month and water when soil starts to feel dry.

Step 3

Plant outside the next spring. Place the plants in full sun to partial shade in well-draining soil. Place a trellis behind the plants to help hold up their canes. Dig out the hole large enough so as to not bend the roots and mix soil with compost before planting the seedling. Plant the plants 2 feet apart with rows up to 7 feet apart. Keep mulch on top of the soil around the plants to keep out weeds and hold in moisture.

Step 4

Keep canes trimmed to about 7 feet. In the second year, trim the canes that have produced berries to the ground and cut off suckers that have grown outside the rows.

Step 5

Pick berries when they turn dark red or purple in color. Pick up any berries that fall to the ground.

Propagating Blackberries through Suckers & Tip Layering Suckers are one of the easiest ways to root blackberry plants. Suckers can be removed from the parent plant and then replanted elsewhere. Tip layering is another method that can be used for blackberry propagation. This works well for trailing types and when only a few plants are needed. Tip layering usually takes place in late summer/early fall. The young shoots are simply bent over to the ground and then covered with a few inches of soil. This is then left throughout fall and winter. By spring there should be enough root formation to cut the plants away from the parent and replant elsewhere.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

Home › Edible Gardens › Fruits › Blackberries Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings Blackberries By: Nikki Tilley, Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden Printer Friendly Version Image by .:[ Melissa ]:. By Nikki Tilley (Author of The Bulb-o-licious Garden) Propagating blackberries is easy. These plants can be propagated by cuttings (root and stem), suckers, and tip layering. Regardless of the method used for rooting blackberries, the plant will characteristically resemble that of the parent variety, especially as far as thorns are concerned (i.e. thornless types will not have thorns and vice versa). Growing Blackberries from Cuttings Blackberries can be propagated through leafy stem cuttings as well as root cuttings. If you want to propagate lots of plants, leafy stem cuttings are probably the best way to go. This is usually accomplished while the cane is still firm and succulent. You’ll want to take about 4-6 inches of the cane stems. These should be placed in a moist peat/sand mix, sticking them in a couple inches deep. Note: Rooting hormone can be used but is not necessary. Mist well and put them in a shady location. Within three to four weeks, roots should begin to develop. More often root cuttings are taken for blackberry propagation. These cuttings, which are usually anywhere from 3-6 inches long, are taken in fall during dormancy. They usually require about a three-week cold storage period, especially plants having larger roots. Straight cuts should be made nearest the crown with an angled cut made further away. Once the cuttings have been taken, they’re usually bundled together (with similar cuts end to end) and then cold stored at about 40 degrees F. (4 C.) outdoors in a dry area or in the refrigerator. After this cold period, like stem cuttings, they are placed in a moist peat and sand mix—about 2-3 inches apart with straight ends inserted a couple inches into soil. With small-rooted cuttings, only small 2-inch sections are taken. These are placed horizontally over the moist peat/sand mix and then lightly covered. It is then covered in clear plastic and placed in a shady location until new shoots appear. Once they’re rooted, all the cuttings can be planted into the garden. Propagating Blackberries through Suckers & Tip Layering Suckers are one of the easiest ways to root blackberry plants. Suckers can be removed from the parent plant and then replanted elsewhere. Tip layering is another method that can be used for blackberry propagation. This works well for trailing types and when only a few plants are needed. Tip layering usually takes place in late summer/early fall. The young shoots are simply bent over to the ground and then covered with a few inches of soil. This is then left throughout fall and winter. By spring there should be enough root formation to cut the plants away from the parent and replant elsewhere.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Propagating Blackberries – Rooting Blackberries From Cuttings https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/blackberries/propagating-blackberries-cuttings.htm

Quart-sized nursery pots or other similar containers - 4" pots like these will do the trick.
Bypass pruners - The Felco F-2 is the industry standard, but a Corona will work just as well at half the price.
Soulless potting medium - ProMix is generally what you'll find in professional nurseries.

1. Fill your pots with a soil-free mix.

Many people will recommend many different potting mixes (I've always had great results with ProMix) but the main thing to look for is a soil-free growing medium, because this will minimize the changes for disease or unwanted fungal growth.
Your mix will likely be some combination of peat moss, coconut coir, vermiculite, perlite, and/or pine bark. Don't stress too much about the overall formula! Ask someone at your local gardening supply store if you're feeling overwhelmed by the option.
Fill the quart-sized pots to the top, loosely – don’t pack it down. You’ll want to have these ready to go before you start making your cuttings so that you will be able to get the new plants in as quickly as possible after pruning.

2. Prune the cane.

What you’re looking for here is a healthy primocane – that is, a new cane growing this season. Though brambles are perennials (their roots will continue to send up new canes year after year), each individual cane functions as a biennial, which means that it grows and develops in its first year, then flowers and dies off in its second year. Floricanes are the second-year shoots that yield berries.
Make your cut as cleanly and precisely as possible - Felco bypass pruners really are indispensable for this task.

3. Cut the cane into pieces and prep the stem.

The ideal cutting is about 4-6”, but this doesn’t have to be too precise. My pruning shears are about 7” long so I use those to get a rough measurement.At the base of your clone, you'll want to cut the stem as close as possible underneath a bud, because this will stimulate new root growth. Plan to stick two buds underground and keep another two or three above soil level.In my example here, I cut a small primocane from plants that was long enough to make two new plants.Once your stem looks good, you can optionally take a knife and gently scrape along the bottom inch. This is known as "scarring." Try some this way, and try some without and see works best for you. GETS THESES CUTTINGS IN WATER AS FAST AS YOU CAN -Peace EzE

4. Stick the cuttings into the pots, water thoroughly and keep damp.Seriously, that's all there is to it! People often recommend using 4. Stick the cuttings into the pots, water thoroughly and keep damp.Seriously, that's all there is to it!

I recommend using rooting hormone, and while it does probably improve your success rate a bit,

Great Example:

Everyone wants Tomatoes in the garden

Steps for Hardening Off Tomatoes

Start slowly. For the first day, set plants outside in the shade, next to the house, or in a protected area for an hour or two. ...
Raise exposure. ...
Monitor seedlings. ...
Finally, leave tomatoes out overnight.

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Growing Tomatoes

2020-07-31T02:20:00.006-05:00

Patio Garden

If you want to grow lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, radishes, peas or beans, you can grow all of these from seed without having to start the seeds inside in advance. If you want to grow other things such as tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, eggplant or other vegetables, you may want to consider buying starter plants

Best Way to Grow Tomatoes in Small Space

1. Don’t start the plants too early before the season, unless you live in a warm climate otherwise; your tomato plants will be exposed to unexpected late frost and cold temperatures. The best planting time is when the temperature starts to stay above 50 F (10 C).
2. Unlike all other plants, tomatoes must be planted deeply. Deep planting encourages healthy and strong root system. At the time of planting, cover bottom 2/3 part of your tomato seedling with potting soil. For example, if your plant is 10 inches high leave only 3 inches of its height from the top.
3. Grow determinate varieties of tomatoes if you’re short of space or growing tomatoes in containers. Determinate tomatoes don’t grow too tall or wide (generally, 3-4 feet). Both hybrid and heirloom cultivars are available in it.
4. Growing indeterminate tomatoes in a small space is a mistake, they easily grow above 6 feet tall normally and spread a lot, thus require sturdy support by caging or staking. On the other hand, determinate type of tomatoes requires slight support.
5. Space your tomato plants 18 inches apart (determinate one). Ideally, you should leave the space of 24 inches if possible. Tomato plants grown too close are prone to fungal diseases and are less productive.
6. On a small balcony, you can even grow smaller varieties more closely. Consider cherry tomatoes. But remember, tomatoes growing too tightly require more attention: More fertilizer, water, and pruning.
7. Pruning is not necessary unless plants are grown too close. Prune tangling branches that are blocking the air flow and penetration of sun. Also, remove suckers (emerging stems) up to 6-8 inches under each plant. This will improve the productivity of the plant.
8. Use large pots to grow tomatoes. You can use a 5-gallon pot that is 12 inches wide and deep for a single plant of determinate variety, for an indeterminate type choose minimum 15-gallon size container.
9. The container should be deep, at least, 12 inches is necessary.
10. Caging needs more space so instead of it, support tomatoes by stacking. If you are growing tomatoes on a balcony, consider tying them up to the railing.
11. Don’t grow tomatoes upside down. It is a fancy idea but not a practical one. However, you can grow tomatoes (cherry tomatoes) in hanging baskets.
12. Provide the sun, as much sun as possible. The more your tomato plant will soak the sunlight more they will fruit.
13. Use soilless potting mix for the better result. You can buy it or make your own.
14. Soil pH matters. Ideal pH for tomatoes is around 6 – 6.8. Slightly acidic to neutral.
15. Add worm castings or vermicompost to the soil. You can also put worms in the soil.
16. When growing tomatoes in a container, regular watering is essential. Watering must be done in the morning. Almost every day in summer. In tropics, you may need to water twice a day.

17. Avoid overhead watering. Wetting the foliage is a bad practice as wet leaves and stems are more prone to diseases.
18. Use tomato feed to fertilize your plants. Apply less dose than the instruction given on the packet but more often. Consider half of the recommended dose but twice.
19. At the time of planting, place 2-3 crushed chicken egg shells in the bottom. This will provide a constant supply of minerals and calcium to the plant. Deficiency of calcium promotes blossom end rot in tomatoes. It is an essential element in the uptake of nutrients. Calcium also saves the plant from heat stress and affects the fruit quality.

20. Sprinkle some bonemeal at the time of planting, especially if your soil lacks calcium. Bonemeal will also provide a slow and steady supply of phosphorus to the plant. It is an organic product that consists higher amount of phosphorus and calcium.

21. Once in a month, fertilize the plant with compost or manure tea.
22. Mulch your tomato plants, it is important. For mulching, use organic matter, crushed egg shell, and coffee ground or tea.
23. Use Epsom salt for tomatoes.

To know why and how

Epsom Salt for Potted Tomatoes

Dissolve 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water. Water with this solution until it starts to drain from the bottom. You can do this in every 3 to 4 weeks. You can also use Epsom salt spray for tomato plants.

Epsom Salt for Tomatoes while Planting

While transplanting the seedling, put one tablespoon Epsom salt in the bottom of the planting hole and cover this with a layer of soil. Make sure before planting that roots are not directly touching Epsom salt.

Epsom Salt for Tomatoes during Growing Season

For the tomatoes growing on the ground after planting till harvest, spray two tablespoon Epsom salt mixed in one gallon of water every month during growing season. This will encourage plant’s growth, prevent blossom end rot and makes tomato skin thick and red.

Specialty Farms finding the Tips:
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen. They may rot before they are ripe! Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long a possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place. Per Farmers Almanac

Early Blight (Alternaria) Another tomato plant disease fungus, Alternaria, also causes leaf spot or early blight. Lower leaves show brown or black spots with dark edges, almost like a target. Stem ends of fruits may be attacked, showing large, sunken black areas with concentric rings.

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How to Grow and Harvest Watermelons

2020-07-31T02:19:00.007-05:00

How to tell if a watermelon is ripe when it's on the vine:

Look at its belly: Watermelons have an underside, or belly, which is in contact with the ground throughout its growth, called a 'field spot'. This spot on a ripe watermelon will be yellowish (sometimes referred to as "buttery"), and not white, which indicates an unripe melon.

How to grow Watermelons:

Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8. Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun's heat longer. Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill. If you're growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6 feet apart.

Most varieties are best suited for southern growing regions, but there are varieties that grow well in northern regions. Watermelons require a long-growing season with a hot summer, humid atmosphere and a lot space. These melons are easy to grow when planting in fertile, well-drained soil with full sun.

Watch the calendar and break out the measuring tape: You did remember to save your watermelon seed package and write down the date you planted them, didn't you? WELL NO DID YOU -

When we make our garden we will keep all seed packets and information about our plants

IS the Watermelon Ripe?

Many of the standard commercial varieties of watermelons grown in home gardens will be true to their descriptions on the seed package, assuming all other things are equal (good soil, adequate watering, lack of pest issues), so it's good practice to keep track of when those melons 'should' be ripe before trying to harvest one. And a ripe watermelon from these varieties should be approximately the size indicated on the seed package, although that can vary quite a bit depending on the conditions in your garden.

Check the field spot: As mentioned above, gently turn the watermelon over and look at its belly to see if it's more on the yellow spectrum (ripe) or if it's still white (unripe).

Good opportunity to check for and remove slugs or sowbugs or other bugs

Examine the vine: The leaves and vine itself should still be green and healthy-looking, but on a ripe watermelon, the tendril closest to the fruit will tend to be brown and dried.

If the whole vine and leaves are getting brown, the watermelons probably won't get any riper, and it might be best to harvest them before they go bad.

Knock it off: . A ripe watermelon has a distinctive tone to it, and if all other indicators point to ripeness, the thump test is a good one.

Ripe watermelons go “plunk” and unripe ones go “plink.”

Look at the connection: Watermelons don't slip right off the vine, as some other melons do, but the end of the vine near the melon may start to appear cracked or brownish as it ripens. .

Checked this morning it was ready

So I had it for breakfast Super Sweet I gave thanks to Mother Earth

More to come am going to be drying

The watermelon seeds to plan next years crop Peace- E

The watermelon was so sweet;
spit the seeds into a bowl or bucket and then wash them in cool water with a tiny drop of dish soap; rinse them thoroughly. Allow to dry on screens for several weeks, until they are dry enough to snap in half by hand. Alternately, spread them in an even layer on dehydrator screens set to the lowest possible heat and dry them until they are brittle. Store dried seeds in an envelope or jar for up to four years.

One more thing: make sure you are saving seeds from an heirloom variety and not a hybrid variety.

supermarket varieties are hybrids

heirloom variety is one the popular types listed here:

Black Spanish Watermelon
Citron Watermelon
Cuban Queen Watermelon
Ice Cream Watermelon
King and Queen Watermelon
Kleckley Sweets Watermelon
Moon and Stars Watermelon
Mountain Sweet Watermelon
Rattlesnake Watermelon

If you cannot locate an heirloom watermelon locally, consider purchasing heirloom seeds from a specialty retailer and then saving the seeds from your first crop to enjoy for years to come.

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Growing Bell peppers

2020-07-31T02:18:00.005-05:00

Baby peppers falling off plants with no sign of insect damage could be a case of improper pollination. Those baby peppers aren’t holding any seeds and since that’s the botanical purpose of those delicious little fruits, the parent plant aborts and tries again. Try planting marigolds with your peppers to encourage pollinators to visit

Growing Peppers - It is important to use the estimated days to maturity and to judge by desired color. Red, green, and yellow bells will start out green but turn color as they mature. Do not pull peppers from the plant. Use hand shears to avoid inflicting damage. When harvesting hot peppers, use gloves to protect hands from capsaicin oil and a possible resulting burn. And before going to bath room just saying Peace EzE

Gardening Tips - Put Epsom salts and sugar into each hole with your plant. It makes them grow larger, leafier and greener. But don't over do it though, just a little goes a long way with plants. and it add magnesium that is helpful for pepper plants in your vegetable garden. You can either sprinkle a tablespoon or so around the base of your plants that will feed as watered, or put the epsom into a water bottle and spray the mixture directly on the plants.

Tips

When planting the seed, Bell Pepper it 8 days to germinate.
Prepare the soil plenty of Organic compost.
If the more amount of nitrogen is in the plant is healthy and bushy green.

How to grow Bell Pepper

Always to grow popular vegetable Bell pepper in your garden is pride. Bell Pepper is native to Central and North America. Growing Bell Pepper is easy to grow with below steps.
If you do by planting the seed the bell pepper, then you start from inside the House. Bell Pepper seeds from the last frost indoors 8 weeks before.
After seedling to keep inside a place where environment warm.
When the soil is completely dry, then it will gradually add water.
When your plant to grow nearly 8 inches long, Keep it outdoor.
Bell pepper grown is most suitable for summer season. Healthy Bell Pepper plants are developed only in the summer.
Get it fixed before growing it to be ready before the frost.
Bell pepper like a well-drained loamy soil.
Prepare the soil by adding the plenty of fertilizer and organic manure. Because it requires more fertilizer like spinach.
Space the seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart in a row.
If Bell Pepper planted near tomatoes is good.
You must fertilizer when you pick the first crop, that will help you for another crop.

Bell pepper care

For Bell pepper, the well-drained loam soil is the best. These plants require moisture, to maintain the moisture,
Therefore, maintaining moisture requires mulch or plastic cover.
The plant requires regular watering, although it is sensitive to heat, if you live in a very warm environment, then give more water to your regular routine. By the way, this plant is sufficient 1 or 2 inches of water a week.
Feed the plant after the first fruit.
Plants bell peppers lean over the weight of the fruit, to avoid this you use the trellis or the stake.
Spray a spoonful Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water spray to get bigger fruit, spray it when the flowers come in the plant and once again after 10 days.
Do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer, it will reduce the yield of the fruit.

Bell pepper in a container

It is very easy to put the plant in the container, for this you can either buy the plant from the nursery or you can develop it by seed. It requires a rich soil to be filled in the container, so you use the potting soil. Fill the potting mix in the container for seeding. Keep two or three seeds per peat. Keep moisture until the seed has germinated.
Choose 14 to 16-inch large containers for planting. Before planting, be sure that the container has a drainage hole or not. If not, make a hole by the drill.
Add 1-inch thick gravel on the surface under the container, then fill the container with two-thirds potting mix and one-third compost mixture. Then add fertilizer used in the vegetable according to packet instructions.
After this, plant one or two peppers per container. Dig the soil according to the root ball and after planting it, fill it with dirt on variables.
Use a bamboo stake to support the Bell Pepper plant; bind it to a loose rope with the plant.
Then put the container in the sunny place. Because this plant requires sunlight regularly for 6 to 8 hours.
This plant needs moisture, so keep checking the moisture in the soil. Watering to maintain the moisture. Remember when watering, do not wet the foliage.

Harvesting

It is easy to determine when you have to do the harvesting pepper. When fruit gets 3 to 4 inches long when it’s harvesting if the pepper some slim or small, it means pepper is not mature. If the fruit soggy, so leave on the tree for a long time.

Pests and diseases bell pepper

Aphids, Flea Beetles, and Cucumber Mosaic Virus are the main insects

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Growing purple hull peas

2020-07-31T02:17:00.005-05:00

Purple Hull Peas

Growing Purple Hull Peas

Purple Hull Peas are a type of southern pea similar to Black-Eyed Peas. They almost grow more like a bean than a pea, they shell and dry like one too. Unlike English or snow peas, these peas like the heat. They are a staple food in the southern United States where Emerson, Arkansas holds an annual Purple Hull Pea festival.

How To Plant Purple Hull Peas

With a 65-75 day lifecycle to harvest, farmers often get two or even three crops of southern peas per year. The first seeds are planted in late spring or early summer as soon as the soil warms consistently to 62°F (16°C).

Plant them 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in well-draining soil. They aren’t too picky, work some organic matter, worm castings, manure, or compost into it prior to planting. After planting apply a 2 inch layer of mulch.

Mulch can be:

Straw
Wood Chips
Leaves
Compost

Type of Pea

Purple Hull Peas come in different varieties, they are categorized by their growth habit. Choose a variety that suits your particular garden. Each one will have slightly different needs.
Bushing varieties like the Charleston Greenpack don’t need any trellis or support system to grow. They will stay low to the ground and support themselves.
Semi-Vining plants like Coronet or California Pink Eye take up less space than a traditional vining type and mature earlier. Trellising is optional but can increase yields.
Vining varieties include the traditional Pink Eye and the Mississippi Pink Eye. These vines can grow up to 8 feet long and require a trellis for optimal production and space efficiency.

How to Care for and Harvest Purple Hull Peas

When peas pop out of the ground, thin them to between 4 and 5 inches apart. Other than this and regular watering there isn’t much care. Keep the ground moist but avoid soaking it, they can be over-watered.
Harvesting purple hull pea plants is a lot like harvesting beans. You want to wait until the pods have reached their full mature state before picking them. You can even let them dry out somewhat on the vine. If there is no danger of mold, wait until the pods are dry and brittle.
Shell the peas immediately after harvest. They can be kept fresh in the fridge for a few days, frozen, or dehydrated for long-term storage.

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Eggplant

2020-07-31T02:16:00.009-05:00

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting

Choose your location wisely. Growing eggplant needs full sun and well-drained soil
Give them room to grow by placing at least 2-3 ft between each plant
Eggplant does not like standing water, but do need to be watered deeply weekly
Add mulch will help keep the soil cool and conserve water

Growing Eggplants

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Eggplants

Eggplants—also known as aubergine—are warm-weather vegetables that are harvested in mid- to late summer. See how to plant, grow, harvest, and cook these lovely deep purple crops—one of our favorite grilling vegetables!

Eggplants are actually perennials though they are treated by most gardeners as annuals. Given their tropical and subtropical heritage, eggplants do require relatively high temperatures, similar to tomatoes and peppers (which are also in the nightshade family of vegetables). Like tomatoes, eggplants grow hanging from the vines of a plant that grows several feet in height.
Because they need warm soil, eggplants are usually purchased as transplants (or, started indoors about two months in advance). Raised beds enriched with composted manure are an ideal growing place for eggplants because the soil warms more quickly. Eggplants are also great for containers and make lovely ornamental borders.

Though eggplants are usually a beautiful dark purple color, their color can vary, and so can the size and shape—from small- to large-fruited. Explore eggplants!

Planting

Start plants indoors in flats or peat pots 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting.
Plant outdoors in a very sunny spot with well-draining, fertile soil (with a pH from 6.3 to 6.8).
Mix 1 inch or so of well-rotted manure or a general fertilizer such as 5-10-5 throughout the planting bed about a week before planting. (Apply 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet.)
Use a covering of black plastic mulch to warm heavy clay soils before setting out transplants.
If transplanting, set 3- to 4-inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds.
Mix 1 tablespoon of 5-10-5 or a shovelful of rotted manure or good compost with the soil in the bottom of each planting hole and cover with more soil.
If you’re growing eggplant in pots, use a dark-colored container. Each plant needs five-gallon (or, larger) pots and should be placed in full sun and outdoors so it can be pollinated. Use a premium potting mix to avoid disease.
Stake the plants right away (just an inch or two from the plant) to provide support as they climb and to avoid disturbing the soil later.
If you live in a cold climate, consider using row covers to keep the eggplants warm and sheltered. Open the ends of the row covers on warm days so that the bees may pollinate.
After planting, water well. Add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Problems Growing Eggplant

Flea Beetles are by far the worst pest for eggplant. They can destroy and kill a small plant in a matter of days if you aren’t careful. Starting with larger, healthy plants can go a long way on combating these bugs, but even then they may still struggle. I keep a good dusting of Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth on all of my eggplant for the first few weeks- reapplying after rain or watering. This is very effective in killing the flea beetles until your eggplant has grown large enough and strong enough to fend for itself.

Spray the mixture on the foliage of garden plants that are susceptible to these pests. Dusting your plants with plain talcum powder repels flea beetles on tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and other plants. Use white sticky traps to capture flea beetles as they jump.

Harvesting and Using Your Eggplant

If you’ve never grown eggplant before, you may be wondering how to tell if your eggplant is ready for harvest.
Eggplant should be picked when it is still on the small size, when the skin takes on a high shine. Like zucchini, you want to pick eggplant when they are immature. This lends to a better flavor and smoother flesh.
Picking often will also encourage more growth and a more abundant harvest for you. When you cut open an eggplant, it should have a soft inside with very small, soft seeds. If the inside is on the tougher side or the seeds have begun to harden, your eggplant is past it’s prime and will most likely have a more bitter taste.

HUMMMMM time to eat - The joy of a small garden :)

1 large Egg Plant
Salt & pepper to taste
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oi
2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or lightly grease.
Slice the eggplant in half lengthwise, then cut each half into quarters lengthwise. Cut each of those in half to make two shorter quarters. Place the eggplant onto the baking sheet with the skin side down. Brush each piece with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Roast in the preheated oven until softened and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with lemon juice. Serve hot.

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Growing Summer Squash

2020-07-31T02:16:00.008-05:00

Growing Summer Squash Choose a sunny site squash plants prefer EzE super soil. End of March or first April. Plant summer squash seeds 8 inches apart, poking them into the soil 1 inch deep; water well. Thin seedlings to 3 feet apart. harvested at any size, from a few inches long to more than a foot in length. Harvesting squash often will also spur the plants to continue to produce fruit

Planting

If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before your last spring frost in peat pots. (See local frost dates.) However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
The soil needs to be warm (at least 60ºF/16°C at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
To get an early start when soil temperatures are not yet ideal, warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
To germinate outside, use a cloche, row cover, or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
Most summer squash now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash are vining plants that need more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.

Care

Mulch around plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
If your squash blooms flowers but never bears actual fruit, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
For all types of squash, frequent and consistent watering is important for good fruit development. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.

Pests/Diseases

There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
Cucumber Beetle

Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.

Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with a dimpled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.

Aphids

Harvest/Storage

Harvest summer squash when small and tender for best flavor. You may harvest as “baby squash” or when mature (6 to 8 inches long). Large squash have very little taste.
Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering.
Check plants everyday for new produce. Once squash starts producing, you’ll be picking every day!
Cut the fruit off the vine rather than breaking them off. Leave at least an inch of stem on the fruit. Use a sharp knife.
Should you miss a picking or two, remove the overripe squash as soon as possible to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients.
Summer squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick them all before the first fall frosts arrive.
Fresh summer squash can be stored in the refrigerator for up to ten days.
Harvest winter squash when the rind is hard and deep in color, usually late September through October.
Winter squash can be stored in a cool, dark place until needed. Many varieties will last for most of the winter (except for acorn squash, which do not keep for more than a few weeks). If you have a cool bedroom, stashing them under the bed works well. They like a temperature of about 50 to 65°F (10 to 18°C).
Pull up the vines and compost them after you’ve picked everything or after a frost has killed them. Then till the soil to stir up the insects a bit.

HUMMM time to eat - Love my small garden :)

Ingredients

6 medium summer squash, sliced
¹⁄₄ cup butter
1 medium onion, sliced thinly or diced
salt & pepper

Directions

Melt butter in large skillet.
Add onion and cook just till tender.
Add yellow squash and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring until squash begins to soften.
Cover and continue cooking over low heat until nice and tender (usually about 20-25 minutes).
I add lots of salt and pepper.

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Zucchini

2020-07-31T02:13:00.005-05:00

Planting

Zucchini likes well-drained, fertile soil that's been amended with lots of compost. Plant seed outdoors when the soil temperature has reached 60°F—about a week after the last frost. You want to give your squash a lot of room to spread out and grow. Plant them about 3 to 4 feet apart in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. If space is limited, put up a trellis for vertical support.

Watering and Fertilizing

Zucchini like consistently moist soil. To prevent problems with disease, always water from below. Spray plants with compost tea two weeks after seedlings come up. Spray again in three weeks or when the first flowers appear.

Harvesting

Harvest zucchini when the fruits are still small—about 4 inches long. Picking zucchinis regularly as they reach maturity promotes more squash production. If your plants are super productive, then you'll want to switch up your cooking method

Pests and Diseases

Pale to brown blotches on leaves are the work of squash bugs. Squash vine borers cause plants to wilt suddenly. (Here's the best way to protect squash from nasty bugs.)

Hand pick off the bugs and eggs

Diatomaceous Earth is a powder made from ground up diatoms. It works my making microscopic cuts in the exoskeleton of insects- drying them out. There are 2 types- food grade and industrial grade. You want the food grade for all of your gardening and pest needs. Simply spread a layer of diatomaceous earth at the base of the plant. It doesn’t work once it gets wet, so you will have to reapply as necessary.

How do I cook zucchini in the oven?

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).
Place zucchini in a bowl. Drizzle olive oil over zucchini and stir to coat; add bread crumbs and toss to coat. Spread coated zucchini onto a baking sheet. ...
Bake in the preheated oven until zucchini are tender and cheese is browned, about 15 minutes.

How do I pan fry zucchini?

All you need to do is slice your zucchini into about 1/4″ rounds, then salt and pepper it on both sides. Heat a good, heavy skillet over medium heat and add some olive oil to the pan. Then cook the zucchini until it's golden brown on one side, flip it over and cook the other side.

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Growing Cauliflower

2020-07-31T02:12:00.006-05:00

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a cool-season crop and a descendant of the common cabbage. It is more difficult to grow than its relatives because it does not tolerate the heat or cold as well.

Planting

Select a site with at least 6 hours of full sun.
Soil needs to be very rich in organic matter; add composted mature to the soil before planting. Fertile soil holds in moisture to prevent heads from “buttoning.”
Test your soil! (Get a comprehensive soil test through your local cooperative extension office.) The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8.
It is best to start cauliflower from transplants rather than seeds. Transplant 2 to 4 weeks before the average frost date in the spring, no sooner and not much later. (See local frost dates.)
Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 30 inches between rows. Use starter fertilizer when transplanting.
Plant fall cauliflower about the same time as fall cabbage. This is usually 6 to 8 weeks before the first fall frost, but after the daytime temperature is below 75 degrees F.
If you really want to try starting cauliflower from seeds, start the seeds 4 to 5 weeks before the plants are needed. Plant the seeds in rows 3 to 6 inches apart and up to half an inch deep. Do not forget to water the seeds during their germination and growth. Once they become seedlings, transplant them to their permanent place in the garden.
In early spring, be ready to cover your plants with old milk jugs for protection if needed. For fall crops, shade them if they need protection from the heat.
Add mulch to conserve moisture.

Care

Make sure that the plants have uninterrupted growth. Any interruption can cause the plants to develop a head prematurely or ruin the edible part completely.
Cauliflower requires consistent soil moisture. They need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week; with normal rainfall, this usually requires supplemental watering.
For best growth, side-dress the plants with a nitrogen fertilizer.
Note that the cauliflower will start out as a loose head and that it takes time for the head to fully form. Many varieties take at least 75 to 85 days from transplant. Be patient!
When the curd (the white head) is about 2 to 3 inches in diameter, tie the outer leaves together over the head with a rubber band, tape, or twine. This is called blanching, and it protects the head from the sun and helps you get that pretty white color.
The plants are usually ready for harvest 7 to 12 days after blanching.

Harvest/Storage

When the heads are compact, white, and firm, then it is time to harvest them. Ideally, the heads will grow to 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
Cut the heads off the plant with a large knife. Be sure to leave some of the leaves around the head to keep it protected.
If the heads are too small, but have already started to open up, they will not improve and should be harvested.
If the cauliflower has a coarse appearance, it is too mature and should be tossed.
If you want to store cauliflower, you can put the head in a plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator. It should last for about a week.
For long-term storage, you can also freeze or pickle the heads.

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Growing Greens

2020-07-31T02:11:00.008-05:00

How to Grow Greens

Prepare Site

Greens like well-worked soil with lots of organic material. Use a garden fork to work a mixture of humus and composted manure deep into the soil. Add approximately one cup of slow-release fertilizer to cover a 4' x 9' garden bed and work it into the soil.

Plant Seeds

Greens can be sown in the ground as soon as it can be worked in early spring. Plant seeds 1/2" deep and 2" apart in rows spaced at least 18" apart. Cover the seeds with soil and water well. Place row markers to indicate which variety of greens was planted where. Cover the bed with a floating row cover to speed up germination.

Cultivate Greens

When seedlings sprout, thin plants to one every 8" by cutting them off at ground level with clean shears. As the weather warms and the greens grow larger, remove the row covers. Water plants during extended dry periods to maintain adequate moisture levels. Keep a constant lookout for pests like aphids and cabbage worms, removing and destroying them as quickly as possible.

Harvest Greens

Greens generally reach maturity in 40 to 70 days. Harvest just the leaves you wish to eat from the outside of the plants. If plants grow so large that they begin to touch, harvest entire heads to make room. Harvest entire plants before the heat of summer decreases the flavor and quality of the leaves.

Turnip greens are easy to grow in any well-drained soil. Set out turnip green plants 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost in spring and from late August to October for a fall crop in most areas. In zones 9 and 10 they can be planted throughout fall and winter.

Frost actually improves the flavor of collard greens. Collard greens planting may also be done in early spring for a summer harvest, but adequate moisture is necessary for collards greens growing successfully in summer heat. A member of the cabbage family, collard greens growing in the heat may bolt.

It takes about 10 to 12 plants of mustard greens to supply two people with fresh greens plus extra to freeze and use during warmer weather. Mustard grows fast, so you can begin picking leaves in about 4 weeks, when the leaves are 6 to 8 inches long. Left alone, leaves reach their full size of 15 to 18 inches long in about 6 weeks

Seed Germination. Collard seeds take four to 10 days to germinate and emerge from the soil. The seeds germinate in soil anywhere between 45 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. You can check the soil temperature using a soil thermometer by inserting it into the top two inches of the soil before planting.

How TO Grow with Speciality Farms

Top Crops for Small Vegetable Gardens

Basil

Chard

Eggplant

Tomatoes

Mesclun Mixes

Lettuce

Edible Flowers

Pole Beans

Facts About Onions

Can You Grow Water Chestnuts?

Water Chestnut Facts

Mushroom

How to Grow Mushroom:

Mushrooms:

Process of Growing Mushrooms

Light

Moisture

Temperature

Nutrients

Feeding Your Mushrooms

Indoor or Outdoor Mushroom Varieties

How To Grow Mushrooms In Your Garden (Outdoor Mushroom Beds)

Check out the video Speciality farms sharing

Bee all U can BEE

How to Pollinate Plants

Pollinating by Hand - Method #1

Pollinating by Hand - Method #2

“Hardening off”

Ladybugs, or lady beetles

SUPER STAR - Lady Bugs

Prey of the Ladybug

Ladybug's Habitat

Benefits

SO LOVE YOUR LADYBUGS - Peace EzE

Hydroponic Greenhouse

What to Grow and What Not to Grow

Plants to Grow in a Hydroponic Greenhouse

Strawberries

Potatoes

Tomatoes

Mint

Basil

Lettuce

Cabbage

Green Beans

Grow What you Eat

Plants to Not Grow in a Hydroponic Greenhouse

Growing Herbs

Growing Herbs IndoorsAll Winter

A Look at Window Gardens

Add Light when Growing Herbs Indoors During the Winter

Conflicting Advise on Feeding Herbs

Watering and Fertilizing

Growing Cucumbers

Keys To Successfully Growing Cucumbers

#1 Plant In A Sunny Location

#2 Provide Rich, Fertile, Well Drained Soil

#3 Be Careful What You Plant Nearby

How to Grow Asparagus

Asparagus

How to plant asparagus--soil preparation in an asparagus bed:

Caring for an Asparagus Bed

Harvesting Asparagus Plants

Not all the plants can be grown by the same rules. So, if you are thinking to grow some Asparagus crowns, then here you can learn how.

Asparagus Beetles on Asparagus

How and when to water plants

Spot -Material -Plant

How to Grow Your Own Peanuts

Did you know that peanuts are not nuts at all. Actually, they are the seeds of a leguminous plant related to peas and beans.

Planting Peanuts

Caring for Peanut Plants

How to Grow Okra

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Okra

Planting

Care

Soil amendments and preparing soil for planting

Pests/Diseases

Harvest/Storage

Growing Herbs Indoors
All Winter