Sports and Recreation - Cycling

Mountain Biking

2008-07-30T17:39:00.000-07:00

by: Dev Sri

Mountain Biking is a sport of endurance, skills and self-reliance. From a back yard to a gravel road, from country sides to mountain slopes, fire roads to the thrills of biking down narrow tracks through forests, mountains, deserts – mountain biking offers incomparable thrills and fun.

There are aspects of mountain biking that are more similar to trail running than regular bicycling. Because riders are often far from civilization, there is a strong ethic of self-reliance in the sport. Riders learn to repair their broken bikes or flat tires to avoid being stranded miles from help. This reliance on survival skills accounts for the group dynamics of the sport. Club rides and other forms of group rides are common, especially on longer treks.

Mountain Biking entails the sport of riding bicycles off-road, often over rough terrain, whether riding specially equipped mountain bikes or hybrid road bikes. Most mountain bikes share similar characteristics that underscore durability and performance in rough terrain: wide, knobby tires, large, round frame tubing, front fork or dual suspension .The durability factor means a far heavier bicycle weight to rider ratio than their road touring cousins.

Mountain Biking in Kerala

Mountain Biking in Kerala works as a pretty good adventure experience for those who love to explore the unbeaten tracks and not so frequently visited paths. Mountain biking amongst the majestic backdrop of the great mountains of Kerala is an unforgettable and thrilling experience. The opportunity of mountain biking in Kerala is from the Munnar, Thenmala and many other places. The training of mountain biking adventurous sport is available.

Those travellers who want to travel differently for them the mountain biking at Kerala is undoubtedly one of the safest and the most enchanting ways to tour Kerala. It has its own advantages; you don't have to be an avid mountain biker to go for biking in different places of Kerala. More than just the excitement of biking you can be delighted by the beautiful whistle of a hill myna or by the amicable smile of a villager.

Each ride is a display of personal expression. There is the gonzo daredevil who rides for the adrenaline rush of speed and danger. Then there is the more careful rider who takes time to enjoy the scenery. Mountain biking in India is famous at Kerala.

Mountain biking in Kerala is a sensory experience like none other. You must concentrate on the intricacies of the terrain. Your hearing becomes fine-tuned to approaching streams, animals or rock slides. As you adjust your speed, you pick up the scent of a cluster of pine trees or a field of grass. In fact, you may even taste honeysuckle carried by the wind. Kerala adventure mountain biking is popular.

Every bike riders riding kit will have all equipment, to enjoy a safe and fun ride. Only keep those things that you are going to use in your riding expedition. Among the essentials that you will require in your mountain bike trip is a first aid box and a basic bike repairs.

Must have items for short riding trips include wrenches for all the nuts and bolts on the bike, tire levers, pump, patch kit/tubes, chain tool, crescent wrench, zip ties, duct tape and a small first aid kit. For long rides also add up things such as cables, brake pads, food, water, a bigger first aid kit, crank remover, spare spokes, casette remover, and extra clothing. To carry these items, you can use a jersey pockets or bike bags.

About The Author
Dev Sri invites you to try adventure tours of Kerala. With Adventure Kerala (http://www.adventurekerala.org/), you will enjoy adventure sports like mountaineering, rapelling, rock climbing, river crossing, and a whole lot of adventure activities.

Shopping For Cycling Jerseys

2008-07-30T06:43:00.000-07:00

Ask Yourself These Questions When Shopping For Cycling Jerseys
by: Alastair Hamilton

Runners can run in nearly any clothing as long as they have running shoes, but bicyclists practically require the highly specialized apparel of their sport.Even casual bike riders will benefit hugely in comfort, speed, safety and satisfaction if they don cycling clothing.Your bicycle itself may demand cycling shoes and your first experience with the chafing and pounding of a bike seat may convince you to wear cycling shorts, but you should also, less obviously, ride in a cycling jersey.

Cycling jerseys will not significantly add to your speed or safety, but they will definitely enhance your total riding experience in several ways.One, they are made to help your body deal with the energy draining impact of wind and weather as you ride.Most cycling jerseys are made of synthetic fabrics that will allow your body to perspire and wick the resultant moisture efficiently from the surface of your skin.Some of today's miracle fabrics, though lightweight as can be, also work powerfully to repel water and resist wind. Combined with the fact that zippered jerseys can be easily opened or closed in the front to allow or discourage air venting, cycling jerseys add enormously to the bicyclist's ability to withstand variations in weather conditions.

What is most cherished by riders about cycling jerseys, though, is simpler.It's the famous back pocket, standard and requisite equipment of any jersey.Whether you are a touring rider, a mountain maniac, or a road racer, the back pocket of your jersey is what Mama Kangaroo's front pocket is to her joey: Life. In this pocket, you will stash energy bars, goo packets, maybe bee pollen.This is your basic on-bike sustenance kit.Into this seemingly endless storage chamber, you will stuff the gloves you no longer need now that the sun's come out, and even the cell phone prudent cyclists carry (for safety, not for idle chatter).Your litter should also be stuffed into this pocket as you consume food.It is amazing what all goes into this pocket, and all without significantly impacting the efficiency of your cycling.

So go ahead.Wear a jersey.Wear it as gaudily as you like. Gaudiness and its companion brilliance, are your birthright as a bicyclist!

About The Author

Alastair Hamilton is a successful writer who contributes adding technical articles on bikecycling to http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com. He helps riders to find the best components and apparel for road and mountain bikes. If look for cycle clothing you may be interested to read http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com/clothing/bicycle-jerseys.html.

Bikes And Your Life

2008-07-30T06:26:00.000-07:00

by: Rolf Karlsen

One look at the modern roads say it all. Inevitable traffic jams, smoke, noise, and air pollution are adamant, not to mention accidents left and right.

Cars take thousands of lives each day worldwide in automobile accidents. Some are results of driving under the influence of drugs or alcoholic beverages, while some are just too tired to be on the road. Instead of heading off to a place for some rest, the drivers will continue driving, so they are most likely prone to accidents.

Automobiles are also harmful to the environment. Cars leak liquids, and owners drive off without wiping the stain, leaving it for wildlife to taste. How many animals fall prey to these vehicles and become road kills in an instant?

Humanists, environmentalists, and animal lovers alike now have the solution for all the death, pollution, and killings. The answer comes with two wheels - bikes and how they can save your life.

Why You Should Start Using Bikes

No pollution is involved with cycling. It does not emit smoke, leak liquids, and is very quiet. Bikers also contribute to saving a space in a crowded parking lot as more than a dozen bicycles can fit in one slot of a car.

For pet lovers, you can tie your pet’s leash on your handlebar and pedal to an easy pace so that your furry friend can run beside you. It cuts out the work for you.

For your pockets, cycling can help you save more money. No insurance has to be paid annually, and no license is required. No fuel bills either as your bike will run to the speed of your pedaling. The maintenance costs about a quarter of what you spend on cars per annum, and a bicycle, once well taken care of, can last for years, if not decades.

In a crowded mall for instance, your bicycle can be parked anywhere. You don’t have to roam the parking area for agonizing minutes after minutes with the stress building up. You can just park it on one corner, secure it with your lock, and leave it to be ready for you until you’re done shopping.

How Your Health will Benefit from Using Bikes

According to a reliable source, a cyclist’s fitness level is equal to his health ten years ago. It can make you feel younger as you are still well in control of your limbs by the exercise, giving you power and building your stamina.

Irked by the way motorcycles pass by your car in the midst of a traffic jam during the rush hour? It can give you that same sense of power. Now, you can weave in and out of traffic, so you’ll reach your destination faster.

It also reduces the risk of heart disease as your heart is healthy and receives proper exercise. In addition, it builds up your muscle legs to give you more power and strength. If you’re a soccer player, then at least now you’ve got that strong kick you’ve always wanted.

About The Author
Rolf Karlsen think that his excellent health comes from his extensive biking, so he tries his best to promote biking everywhere. You can read more about his thoughts and recommendations on http://www.cykeltid.dk

How to Perfect Your Riding Position

2008-07-29T03:04:00.000-07:00

How to Perfect Your Riding Position & Technique
By Ed Pavelka

Cycling is full of prodigious numbers—the distances ridden, the calories consumed, the tires trashed. Another statistic that can seem astounding is the number of pedal strokes made.

Let’s suppose it takes you six hours to ride a century and you pedal at the rate of 90 rpm throughout. As you cross the finish line, you will be making pedal stroke number 64,800.

Whoa, that’s a lot! But it barely registers on the scale of what happens during a full season. For example, during the year in which I had my biggest mileage total, I figure that I got there by pushing the pedals around approximately 13,340,000 times.

Can you say, repetitive use injury? You can see why cyclists are good candidates, especially if we aren’t pedaling from a nearly perfect position.

Your body and bike must fit together and work together in near-perfect harmony for you to be efficient, comfortable, and injury-free. The more you ride, the more essential this is. If even one thing is out of whack, it’s a good bet that it will cause a problem during thousands of pedal strokes.

Fortunately, it isn’t difficult to arrive at an excellent riding position. But it does take time and attention. You need to be careful with your initial bike set-up, then conscientiously stay aware of your body and the need for occasional refinements. As time goes by, your position will stabilize and you’ll be riding in a smooth groove.

The following guidelines come from my experience and the advice of various experts. One is Andy Pruitt, Ed.D., the director of Colorado’s Boulder Center for Sports Medicine. Andy has probably solved more position problems than anyone during his years of work with elite cyclists.

As you work on your riding position, always remember Pruitt Rule No. 1:

“Adjust your bike to fit your body. Don’t force your body to fit the bike.”

Frame: Measure your inseam from crotch to floor with bare feet 6 inches apart, then multiply by 0.68. The answer is a good approximation of your road frame size, measured along the seat tube from the center of the crank axle to the center of the top tube. As a double check, this should produce 4 to 5 inches of exposed seatpost when your saddle height is correct. When the crankarms are horizontal, the top tube should be right between your knees when you squeeze them together.

Arms: Keep your elbows bent and relaxed to absorb shock and prevent veering when you hit a bump or brush another rider. Hold arms in line with your body, not splayed to the side, to be more compact and aerodynamic.
Upper Body/Shoulders: Don’t be rigid, but do be fairly still. Imagine the energy wasted by rocking side to side with every pedal stroke on a 25-mile ride. Save it for pedaling. Also, beware of creeping forward on the saddle and hunching your shoulders. There’s a tendency to do this when pushing for more speed. Shift to a higher gear and stand periodically to prevent stiffness in your hips and back.

Head and Neck: Resist the temptation to put your head down when you’re going hard or getting tired. It takes just a second for something dangerous to pop out of nowhere. Occasionally tilt your head to one side and the other instead of holding it dead center. Change your hand location to reposition your upper body and give your neck a new angle.

Hands: Prevent finger numbness by moving your hands frequently. Grip the bar firmly enough to keep hands from bouncing off on unexpected bumps, but not so tightly that it tenses your arms. For the same safety reason, keep your thumbs wrapped around the bar instead of resting on top. Move to the drops for descents or high-speed riding, and the brake lever hoods for relaxed cruising. On long climbs, grip the top of the bar to sit upright and open your chest for easier breathing. When standing, hold the lever hoods lightly and sway the bike side to side in synch with your pedal strokes, directly driving each pedal with your body weight.

Handlebar: Bar width should equal shoulder width to open your chest for better breathing. A bit too wide is better than too narrow. Make sure the hooks are large enough for your hands. Modified “anatomic” curves may feel more comfortable to your palms. Position the bottom, flat portion of the bar horizontal or pointed slightly down toward the rear brake.

Brake Levers: Move them around the curve of the bar to give you the best compromise between holding the hoods and braking when your hands are in the hooks. Most riders do best if the lever tips touch a straightedge extended forward from under the flat, bottom portion of the bar. The levers don’t have to be positioned symmetrically—remember Andy Pruitt’s rule. If your reach is more comfortable with one lever closer to you than the other, put ‘em that way.

Stem Height: Start with the top of the stem about one inch below the top of the saddle. This should give you comfortable access to every hand position. As time goes by, think about lowering the stem as much as another inch (not all at once) to improve your aerodynamics. If your lower back or neck starts complaining, or if you notice you’ve stopped using the drops, go back up. Never put the stem so high that its maximum extension line shows, or it could be snapped off by your weight on the bar.

Top-tube and Stem Lengths: Combined, these two dimensions determine “reach.” Depending on your anatomy and flexibility, your reach could be longer for better aerodynamics, or it may need to be shorter for back or neck comfort. For most riders, when they’re comfortably seated with their elbows slightly bent and their hands on the lever hoods, the front hub will be obscured by the handlebar.

Back: A flat back is the defining mark of a stylish rider. Notice I didn’t say a great rider. Anatomy and flexibility have a lot to do with how flat you can get. Lance Armstrong, for instance, has a rounded back that’s not picture perfect and yet he still manages to go down the road pretty well. The same was true for John Howard, once America’s dominant road racer. I’m in their boat (back-wise, not speed-wise). Once you have the correct reach, work on flattening your back by imagining touching the top tube with your belly button. This helps your hips rotate forward. You don't want to ride this way all of the time, but it'll help you get more aero when you need to.

Saddle Height: This is the biggie. You’ll find various methods for calculating this critical number. Here’s the one I like best. It has become known as the LeMond Method, because Greg brought it to us from his Renault team in the 1980s. (Invite a friend over so you can help each other and both wind up with primo positions.)

Begin by standing on a hard surface with your shoes off and your feet about 6 inches apart. Using a metric tape, measure from the floor to your crotch, pressing with the same force that a saddle does. Multiply this number by 0.883. The result is your saddle height, measured from the middle of the crank axle, along the seat tube, to the top of the saddle.

Add 2 or 3 mm if you have long feet in proportion to your height. If you suffer from chondromalacia (knee pain caused by damage to the underside of the kneecap), a slightly higher saddle may feel better. However, it should never be so high that your hips must rock to help you reach the pedals. If this formula results in a big change from the height you’ve been using, make the adjustment by 2 or 3 mm per week, with several rides between, till you reach the new position. Changing too fast could strain something.

Saddle Tilt: The saddle should be level, which you can check by laying a yardstick along its length and comparing it to something horizontal like a tabletop or windowsill. A slight downward tilt may be more comfortable, but be careful. More than a degree or two could cause you to continually slide forward, putting pressure on your arms and hands.

Fore/Aft Saddle Position: Sit comfortably in the center of the saddle, click into the pedals, and set the crankarms horizontal. Hold a weighted string to the front of your forward kneecap. For most of us, the string should touch the end of the crankarm. This is known as the neutral position. Loosen the seatpost clamp so you can slide the saddle to get it right. Seated climbers, time trialists, and some road racers may like the line to fall a centimeter or two behind the end of the crankarm to increase pedaling leverage. On the other hand, track and criterium racers may like a more forward position that breeds leg speed. Remember, if your reach to the handlebar is wrong, use stem length to correct it, not fore/aft saddle position.

Butt: By sliding fore or aft on the saddle you can bring some muscles into play while resting others. This is a technique favored by Skip Hamilton, my teammate in the 1996 Race Across America. Moving forward emphasizes the quadriceps muscles on the front of the thighs, while moving back highlights the hamstrings and glutes—the powerful butt muscles.

Feet: Some of us walk like pigeons, others like Charlie Chaplin. Your footprints as you leave a swimming pool will tip you off. To make cycling easier on your knees, shoe cleats must put your feet at their natural angle. This is a snap with clipless pedal systems that allow feet to pivot freely (“float”) several degrees before release. Then all you need to do is set the cleats’ fore/aft position, which is easy. Simply position them so the widest part of each foot is centered on the pedal axle. If you experience discomfort such as tingling, numbness or burning (especially on long rides), move the cleats rearward as much as a centimeter.

Crankarm Length: In general, if your inseam is less than 29 inches, use 165-mm crankarms; 29-32 inches, 170 mm; 33-34 inches, 172.5; and more than 34 inches, 175 mm. A crankarm’s length is measured from the center of its fixing bolt to the center of the pedal mounting hole. The length is usually stamped on the back of the arm. If you use longer crankarms than recommended, you’ll gain leverage for pushing big gears but lose some pedaling speed.

How to Deal With Bad Dogs

2008-07-29T03:02:00.000-07:00

By Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka

Dog attacks are high on the list of cycling fears. Maybe you can’t stop Fang from giving chase, but you can outsmart him if you know how dogs think—assuming that stinkin’ mutt even has a brain!

* Know dog psychology. The majority of dogs who chase cyclists are merely defending their territory. When you pedal off the section of road that they consider their turf, you no longer pose a threat to their ancestral instincts and they lose interest. Incidentally, this is why you’ll rarely be chased by a dog you encounter way out in the boonies. He’s not on his turf so he couldn’t care less about you.
* Know dog tactics. Dogs want to attack from the rear, coming up from the hindquarter. Even one who sits up in his yard ahead of you may wait till you pass before giving chase. You can use this to your advantage in the next tip because it gives you a head start.
* Sprint! You often can outsprint Fido when he’s more interested in fooling around than in actually attacking. You can tell his intent by how hard he’s running and his expression. An easy gait with woofing and ears and tail up, no problem. A full-out sprint with ears back, tail down and teeth out, problem. Still, the territorial gene can save you. If the road is flat or downhill, stand up and sprint to get past the dog’s invisible boundary.

* Guard your front wheel. When a dog sees you coming, he might make a beeline for your bike, then attempt to turn up beside you. The danger here is that his poor little paws will skid on the pavement and he’ll plow into your wheels. If he hits the front one, you’ll crash. Sprint so that you move forward faster than he expects, and give him a margin for error by steering farther into the road—if traffic permits!
* SCREAM! Most dogs know what happens when a human is angry with them. A sudden shout of “No!” or “Git!” or “Stay!” will surprise Fluffy and probably make him hesitate for just the second you need to take the advantage. If he’s hard of hearing, raise your hand threateningly as if it contains a rock. Outlaw mutts usually have had experience with bad things flying at them when a human makes a throwing gesture.
* Play douse the Doberman. If you see big, fast Prince up ahead and know that he sees you, sprinting might not work. Especially if the road is tilting up. Take out your water bottle. Just having it in your hand may make him stay away. If he does come near you, give him a faceful and a loud yell. This distraction will slow him down, though he may come back for more. Just don’t distract yourself and ride off the road.

Some riders swear by Halt pepper spray that they clip to their handlebar. This stuff works great—if you hit your target. That’s a big if when you and Spot are going different speeds, the air is moving, and you’re trying to stay on the road. Pepper spray stings a dog’s eyes, nose and mouth, but it doesn’t cause lasting damage. It also works on human attackers, but that’s a different story.

* Give up and get off. If nothing works and Toodles has the upper hand, dismount quickly and hold your bike between you and those sharp teeth. Swing it like a weapon if necessary, and start calling for help. Someone may eventually come out of a house and yell, “Oh, he won’t hurt you!”
* Call the cops. If you are attacked and bitten, report it to the county sheriff or other authority immediately. Include the location, a description of the dog and the owner’s name and address if you know them. Get medical attention without delay. If the dog was rabid, you are at risk of serious illness or even death. Demand proof of rabies vaccination or insist to authorities that the dog be quarantined.

If the same dog accosts you every time you ride the road, report this to the authorities, too. You have a right to use public roadways free from fear for your life, liberty and pursuit of cycling happiness. Keep following up with calls to make sure steps are taken to put PupPup on a rope.

How to Survive Road Hazards

2008-07-29T03:00:00.001-07:00

By Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka

Cycling is a unique sport because its arena is the open road. That’s the same place frequented by traffic, potholes, snarling dogs and absentminded pedestrians.

But sometimes we’re our own worst enemy. Inattention and poor technique can put us on the pavement as fast as any hazard. Use these tips and you’ll be less likely to take a tumble.

* Always ride with your head up. While cruising along, it’s tempting to stare at the whirling pattern of the front spokes or fixate on your cyclecomputer’s numbers. A momentary downward glance that lasts just a second too long can mean riding into a problem that could easily have been avoided.
* Focus. The smooth and rhythmic motion of pedaling can have a hypnotic effect. Daydreaming cyclists have crashed into the back of parked cars, wandered far into the traffic lane or blithely ridden off the road. Don’t let yourself be separated from the outside world by the vivid canvases created by your imagination. Keep your head in the game.
* Keep your bike in top mechanical condition. Repair or replace faulty parts sooner rather than later. It’s a loser’s game to milk “just one more ride” out of worn brake pads, a frayed cable, or tires with a threadbare tread or bulging sidewall. Your first line of defense against the challenges of the real world is a bike with all parts in good working order.

Punctures

It’s every rider’s fate to flat. But it’s relatively easy to limit the frequency.

* Choose your line with care. The best way to avoid punctures is also the easiest: Steer around broken glass, road rubble and potholes.
* Use tires with a Kevlar belt under the tread. Kevlar does a good job of stopping nasty things from penetrating. Inspect the tread after every ride for embedded debris. Remember, most punctures are caused by something sticking to the tread and working through during numerous wheel revolutions. Replace tires before they become so thin that they’re virtually defenseless against pointy things.
* Check inflation pressure every couple of days. Tubes are slightly porous and may lose several pounds of pressure each day. Soft tires slow you down, corner poorly, wear fast, and don’t protect your rims against metal-bending impacts.

Potholes

Hitting potholes can bend your rims beyond repair. If the chasm is deep enough, it will send you hurtling over the handlebar when you bury the front wheel and the bike suddenly stops. Here’s a primer on pothole evasion.

* Note where potholes lurk on your normal training routes. Plan your line well in advance to avoid them. Don’t expect the road to be in the same condition every day. Potholes have a habit of sprouting up out of nowhere, especially in the winter and early spring due to the daily freeze/thaw cycle.
* Treat potholes like glass. Ride around them, first checking behind for traffic. Be mindful of riding partners when you change your line. Newly minted potholes present a double hazard—the chasm itself, and the chunks of shattered pavement around it. If the pothole doesn’t bend your wheel, the sharp bits of rubble might puncture your tire. Give these highway craters a wide berth.
* Jump your bike over a pothole, if you have the skill and are unable to ride around it because of traffic or adjacent riders. Learn this move on a grassy field. Level your pedals, crouch off the saddle, then spring up and lift with your feet and hands. Start by jumping over a line on the ground, then graduate to higher but forgiving objects such as a rolled-up towel or a shoebox.

Railroad Tracks

Unlike most dangers, tracks can’t be ridden around. You can suffer an instant crash if your tires slip on the shiny steel rails. Ride with extreme caution and follow these safety tips.

* Slow down! Tracks are rough, and even if you don’t crash you could get a pinch flat. This happens when you ride into something abrupt, like a rail, and it pinches the tube between the tire and rim, slicing two little holes in the tube.
* Rise slightly off the saddle. Have equal weight on your hands and feet. Let the bike chatter beneath you. Use your flexed arms and legs as shock absorbers.
* Cross tracks at a right angle. If the rails are diagonal to the road and you cross them at an angle, your front wheel can be twisted out from under you. A perpendicular passage is essential in the rain. Wet metal tracks are incredibly slippery. The slightest imbalance or abrupt move can send you sprawling.
* Jump if you’re real good. Racers who need to cross tracks at maximum speed will jump them. They use the same technique that works for potholes, but with more speed and lift because they must clear two rails. Coming down too early means the rear wheel will hit the second rail, guaranteeing a ruined rim or a pinch flat. In most cases, jumping isn’t worth the danger. It’s better to slow down, square up, and creep across.

Additional Slick Spots

* Painted lines. These can be slippery, especially the wide markings for pedestrian crossings at intersections. The paint fills in the asphalt’s texture, producing a surface that’s uncertain when dry and deadly when wet. The danger is worse when the paint is new.
* Dry oil slicks. These may be nearly invisible, but you can spot them as darker streaks on a gray pavement. Be real careful in corners. You aren’t safe if you ride through oil on the straights. The greased tread might slip in a corner just ahead.
* Wet oil slicks. If it rains, a small oily patch can grow until it covers the whole lane. Be on the lookout for the telltale multi-colored water. There’s no pot of gold at the end of this rainbow, only a black-and-blue meeting with the pavement.
* Wet metal. If it’s been raining and you come upon anything metal in the road (manhole cover, steel-deck bridge, road-repair plate), it’s as treacherous as riding on ice. Cross it with the bike absolutely upright. Even a slight lean can cause the wheels to slip. Smart riders walk their bikes across wet steel bridges.
* Wet leaves. Be very careful in the fall, or you will. Even if the road is dry, there can be moisture trapped between leaves littering the pavement. When you see leaves in a corner, slow down and round the bend with your bike upright, not angled.
* Sewer grates. Some old ones have bars that run parallel to the street and are wide enough to let a bike wheel fall through. If this happens, you can look forward to plastic surgery and possibly a lifetime of lawsuit riches. Many municipalities have replaced such grates with bicycle-friendly versions, but be careful in case a town hasn’t gotten the message yet.

How to Choose a Bike Club

2008-07-29T02:57:00.000-07:00

By Fred Matheny

Cycling can be a solo sport. Long rambles through the spring countryside, hard rides in the hills, weekend tours to scenic areas—all can be enjoyed with only your own thoughts for company.

In fact, many cyclists prefer to go alone. Then they can choose their own route and are free to ride hard or stop and smell the flowers, as their fancy prefers.

But cycling is also the perfect group sport. Here are just five good reasons for riding with others:

* Part of the thrill of riding a road bike is drafting other cyclists in close proximity.
* A group lets you meet people, expanding your social horizons.
* Racing is inevitably a group activity, so if you plan to compete it’s almost mandatory to train with other racers at least part of the time.
* Small group rides are fast because you can share the work at the front. You can cover more ground during your training time.
* Small groups are safe because a pack of several riders is that much more visible to motorists. And if you have trouble of any sort, help is right there.

To get these benefits, it’s a good idea to join a bike club even if you ride alone much of the time due to preference or your schedule.

But if there are two or more clubs in your area, how do you know which one to join? It depends on what you want to do and how you want to do it. Are you interested in recreational rides or racing?

Get to know area cyclists and ask why they joined the club they did. Go to club events to watch the organization and feel the atmosphere. Sit in on a club’s monthly meeting to hear about issues and see what kind of people are at the helm.

Participate in club rides and tune in to the tenor of the group. Is it supportive or critical of other riders? Remember, if you enjoy cycling, you should enjoy it even more in the company of fellow riders. It pays to pick your club carefully.
Recreational/Touring Clubs

Most clubs are geared to promoting fun rides and tours. Here are some ways you can identify a club that’s doing it right.

* Good clubs offer a full schedule of weekend rides plus occasional longer tours.
* Good clubs grade rides in terms of distance, speed and ability so that newcomers don’t accidentally bite off more than they can chew. One sure sign of a poor club is when a ride rated “easy” turns into a race as the leader shows off his fitness and power.
* Good clubs have rides that encourage participation by the whole family. They sometimes sponsor low-key time trials (safe races against the clock) and encourage everyone to participate, regardless of fitness or skill.
* Good clubs have social gatherings like potlucks or “restaurant rides” that bring people together off the bike.
* Good clubs are active in politics. They support local and state bicycle advocacy organizations. They often are the force behind bicycle path construction, traffic ordinances that favor cyclists, and campaigns urging residents to reduce air pollution by commuting to work by bike.
* Good clubs sponsor a major yearly event, such as a century ride. These rides are well organized, safe, and promoted to the regional cycling community. Shorter distances will be included to welcome everyone, not just enthusiasts.
* Good clubs regularly publish a newsletter to keep members motivated and updated on rides and other events.

Racing Clubs

Some recreational/touring clubs have a racing division, while other clubs are strictly racing organizations. They exist to help talented cyclists achieve competitive goals. If you want to race, joining a good racing club is a key step toward realizing your potential.

Some clubs are geared to junior riders, some to masters, and others concentrate on Category 1-5 riders. If you find two or more clubs that seem meet your needs, make your choice using this criteria:

* A good racing club provides qualified coaching.

This may mean the coach is certified by USA Cycling (the governing body of U.S. bike racing), but many fine coaches don’t have formal certification.

Good coaches have time to work with young or inexperienced cyclists. They have the patience to bring beginning cyclists along slowly, letting them develop at their own rate without undue pressure.

Good coaches aren’t slaves to one coaching system. They don’t blindly follow some formula but instead devise training and racing strategies geared to individual cyclists.

* A good racing club has a comprehensive year-round program.

In the winter, riders meet for weight training and stationary bike work. They train together in the early season, doing long base-building rides. They practice team tactics on training rides and use them in races. They travel to events together, sometimes in a team van.

* A good racing club promotes races.

There’s usually a local time trial series and a weekly evening criterium in which members hone their skills for the real races on the weekend. These practice races are a good measure of the club. Look for events that start on time, are well organized and take place on safe-but-challenging courses.

Cycling is a relatively expensive sport, so good clubs work hard to secure sponsorships from non-cycling companies as well as from the industry and bike shops. These sponsorships help cover the cost of clothing, equipment and travel. Shops also may offer parts and service discounts to club members.

* A good racing club offers a friendly, supportive environment despite the emphasis on competition.

Team members encourage each other with advice and consolation. (One sure sign of a poor club is people yelling at each other on training rides, dispensing criticism instead of support.) Training rides should be designed to help everyone improve. Race strategy should be based on teamwork rather than on showcasing star athletes.

How to Choose Cycling Shorts

2008-07-29T02:55:00.000-07:00

By Fred Matheny and Ed Pavelka

You should choose road-cycling shorts based on the quality of materials and construction. But also crucial is how well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for you than a high-zoot model.

Shorts, like saddles, are tough to recommend because of differences in butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best on the bike. It's hit or miss, and some luck is involved. Just as with saddles, there is no universal answer.

That said, here are guidelines that'll point you toward better choices.

* Price. Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because the material and construction may be substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6 pieces ("panels"), which won't give you the best anatomical fit. The padded liner ("chamois") may not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren't as durable, either, so in the long run they really aren't a bargain. When touring and washing shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners on quality.

* Panels. The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts conform to your body better than those made from fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam stitching so additional panels won't result in abrasion or other discomforts.

* Liner. Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real chamois leather). That's a good thing because the material can't dry, crack and cause more irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth, absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner has the best chance of feeling comfortable. Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work fine for you -- or maybe not. There's no way of knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also problematic are gel inserts. Because they're in plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin irritation.

* Leg length. This goes up and down like hem lengths in the fashion world. Long, so-called "Belgian" shorts will be in style for a while, putting the legs just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed for spinning classes, are favored by riders who want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing casual shorts. But they shouldn't be so short that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.

* Waist length. Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to keep skin covered in the bent-over riding position. Likewise, they are low in front so you can bend forward without restriction. The front shouldn't be so low, though, that it's below your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.

* Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it doesn't feel like a cord around your middle. Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If that's the only thing keeping shorts in place, you'll feel restricted in certain positions or when breathing deeply.

* Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that ride up and let material bunch in the crotch. Check the leg grippers to be sure they're wide, made of "sticky" rubber-like material and securely sewn in. The legs should feel comfortably snug, not tight.

* Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric generically called spandex. They're easy to pull on and don't feel like you're wearing a 19th century corset. On the other hand, you may come across shorts with fabric that purposely resists stretching. The idea is to provide help to your pedal stroke. The fabric "stores" kinetic energy on the rear part of the stroke and releases it when you push down. This concept is also used in competition suits for weight lifters. I'm not aware of any studies that prove a benefit for cyclists.

* Bibs. Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can't sag. They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to limit movement and irritation. For men, this prevents the chance of things moving out of place when pedaling out of the saddle. However, the high front makes it difficult for guys to urinate. (Some prefer to roll up one leg instead of contorting to pull down the front.) Women usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don't have to remove their jersey to take what cycling commentator Phil Liggett calls a "natural break." Bib shorts are more expensive than standard shorts.

* Size. It's best to try on shorts before buying them. Sizing varies among manufacturers. Fred is 5-foot-10 and just under 160 pounds, but wears size XL in some shorts while M is too big in others. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the "plumping of America" and cut their clothing bigger. It's risky to buy shorts by mailorder unless you're replacing a model and size you've worn before.

* Overall fit. In general, snugger is better. You don't want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do want the shorts to stay exactly in place. Remember that properly designed cycling shorts will look a bit baggy in the butt when you're standing in front of the dressing room mirror. Then crouch forward into the riding position and watch them mold to your body.

How to Solve Painful 'Hot Foot'

2008-07-29T02:54:00.001-07:00

By Fred Matheny

In cycling, it’s known as “hot foot” -- a burning pain in the ball of the foot, perhaps radiating toward the toes. Severe cases feel like some sadistic demon is applying a blowtorch.

Hot foot occurs most often on long rides. It may develop sooner or more intensely on hilly courses because climbs cause greater pedaling pressure. The pain results when nerves are squeezed between the heads of each foot’s five long metatarsal bones. These heads are in the wide part of the foot (the “ball”) just behind the toes.

My worst case of hot foot occurred on a 3,400-mile, 24-day transcontinental ride. With an average distance of 140 miles per day, no rest days and more than 100,000 feet of vertical gain, my dogs were smoking by the third week.

My RBR partner, Ed Pavelka, remembers being in agony near the end of one 225-mile ride early in his long-distance career. It was his first experience with hot foot, and the problem plagued him that season until he changed to larger shoes. Feet always swell on long rides (more so in hot weather), causing pressure inside shoes that normally fit fine.

“Hot foot” is actually a misnomer. It’s not heat but rather pressure on nerves that causes the burning sensation. You’ll sometimes see riders squirting water on their pups in a vain attempt to put out the fire.

Besides tight shoes, another risk factor is small pedals, especially if you have large feet. Small pedal surfaces concentrate pressure on the ball of the foot instead of spreading it the way a larger pedal will. If your cycling shoes have flexible soles like most mountain bike shoes, they’ll be less able to diffuse pressure.

Before Ed figured out his shoe-size problem, he tried to solve the pain with cortisone injections. That’s an unnecessary extreme in most cases -- and it’s not fun to have a doctor stick a needle between your toes. Here are several better solutions.

* Adjust shoe straps. It’s the top strap nearest your ankle that stops your feet from slopping around in your shoes. Tighten it as much as necessary, but keep the strap nearest your toes loose for maximum room.

* Use thinner insoles and/or socks. This will give your feet more room to swell without restriction, especially helpful if your shoes are borderline snug.

* Re-focus the pressure. Many riders solve hot foot by moving their cleats to the rear by as much as 8 mm. Long-distance enthusiast may go back as far as the cleat slots allow. They might even drill new rearward holes. After using this remedy, lower your saddle by the same amount if you moved your cleats backward 2-4 mm. If more than 4 mm, lower the saddle about half the amount. So, if your cleats go back 1 cm, put the saddle down 5 mm.

* Add metatarsal buttons. These foam domes are placed on insoles (or are built into them) just behind the ball of the foot. They spread the metatarsal bones so the nerves running between them aren’t pinched by pressure or swelling. You can find these products in the foot-care section of drug stores.

* Switch to larger pedals, for the reason mentioned above.

* Buy new shoes. Look for a model with a wider-and-higher toe box, a stiffer sole and an anatomical footbed with a metatarsal button. One model that meets these specs is the Specialized BG, with versions for road and off-road.

* Purchase custom orthotics. These plastic footbeds are supplied by podiatrists or sports medicine clinics. Among their biomechanical benefits are built-in metatarsal buttons. Be certain the practitioner understands you're a cyclist, because orthotics for runners are not what you need. Cycling is a forefoot activity, not a heel-strike activity.

For more information on hot foot, orthotics and other foot-related issues, see "Andy Pruitt’s Medical Guide for Cyclists," available as an eBook in the online eBookstore at RoadBikeRider.com.

How to Solve Saddle Sores

2008-07-29T02:51:00.000-07:00

By Fred Matheny

A saddle sore can ruin a ride. Even a tiny zit can begin to feel like you’re perched on a golf ball. Nearly as painful are crotch abrasions caused by shorts that bunch or have an irritating seam.

Even the pros, hardened by thousands of miles in the saddle, fall victim to what cycling author Arnie Baker, M.D., calls “crotchitis.” Fabled tough guys like Eddy Merckx and Sean Kelly had to abandon races when the pain became too great.

Most medical experts say that saddle sores are actually boils caused by skin bacteria that invade surface abrasions. Remedies have come a long way from the era when riders would put slabs of raw steak in their shorts to cushion the abraded area.

Of course, avoiding saddle sores is better than curing them (or ruining a good sirloin). Here’s how:

* Improve your bike fit. If your seat is too high, your hips rock on each pedal stroke and strum your soft tissue across the nose of the saddle. The result is irritated skin and a greater chance of infection. Especially if you suffer from chronic saddle sores, have your position checked by an experienced coach or knowledgeable bike shop person.

* Stand frequently. Doing so takes pressure off your crotch and restores circulation. Get in the habit of standing for 15-20 seconds every few minutes. Use natural opportunities such as short hills, rough pavement or accelerating from stop signs. Stand and stretch when you’re at the back of a paceline or group.

* Move on the saddle. Sit mostly toward the rear where your sit bones get maximum support and take pressure off your crotch. But also move farther back on seated climbs, and more to the middle when bending low to make good time. Each shift relieves pressure points.

* Choose a smooth chamois. Look for shorts with a one-piece liner or one that’s sewn with flat seams. It may take experimenting with shorts brands or chamois types to find the model that works best. Women often do better with shorts designed specifically for their anatomy and that have a liner with no center seam. See the RoadBikeRider.com article, "How to Choose Cycling Shorts."

* Select a supportive seat. Saddle choice is crucial. Excessively wide saddles rub your inner thighs. Narrow saddles don’t provide enough support for your sit bones -- your weight is borne by soft tissue that can quickly become bruised and irritated. Thickly padded saddles can press upward between your sit bones, causing uncomfortable numbing pressure. The best choice for any individual rider can only be found through trial and error. Hopefully, your bike shop will have a saddle test-ride program or liberal trade-in policy. See the RoadBikeRider.com article, "How to Find a Safe Saddle."

* Lube to reduce friction. To prevent the chamois from abrading skin, apply lubrication before each ride. Try a commercial product such as Chamois BUTT’r or Bag Balm, or simply a light coating of petroleum jelly. Apply a dab the size of a nickel to your crotch before putting on your shorts.

* Keep clean. Always wear clean shorts for each ride. If you seem susceptible to saddle sores, you may find it helpful to wash your crotch with antibacterial soap and warm water before lubing up. Dry your skin well first.

* Strip quick. After a ride, get out of your sweaty, germy shorts as soon as possible. The environment down there breeds bacteria and encourages them to enter abraded skin. Then shower or clean up with soap and water. Dry well and put on loose-fitting clothing that allows your skin to breathe. For underwear, try boxer shorts. The tight leg bands of briefs cut across the junction of your glutes and hamstrings, right where many saddle sores develop.

* Sleep in the buff. It keeps your crotch dry and free of clothing contact for as long as you’re in bed.

If You Get a Saddle Sore

* Medicate it. Besides keeping it clean, treat it with an over-the-counter acne gel containing 10% benzoyl peroxide. Perhaps even more effective is the topical prescription product called Emgel (erythromycin). If a sore is getting out of control, ask your doctor about a course of oral antibiotics.

* Rest it. As you medicate a troublesome sore, take some time off the bike to help it heal. It’s far better to lose three days now than a week or more after infection sets in. If you continue to ride on an open sore it may eventually form a cyst that requires surgery.

If You Must Continue Riding

Sometimes you can’t take time off. For instance, you may be on a tour or at a cycling camp.

* Change your shorts or saddle. Your problems are probably isolated in one small area -- a boil or abrasion. Changing your saddle and/or shorts can reduce pressure on the sore and lessen pain.

* Use a heavier lube. If you’re getting irritated, apply extra lube or switch to a more viscous one. Many long-distance riders swear by Bag Balm, which was originally made for sore cow udders but is now available in most pharmacies.

* Numb it. OTC pain reducers and anti-inflammatories, such as ibuprofen, can help. In extreme cases, pro team physicians will use a topical anesthetic on riders so they can finish a stage race. It’s not recommended for recreational riders because when you’re numb, you can ride yourself into greater damage.

* Try Preparation H ointment. No, not for that reason. Prep H works on saddle sores because it shrinks swollen tissue and soothes pain. Apply it five minutes before slathering on your chamois cream and putting on your shorts. Also try a dab on sores after rides to dull discomfort.

* Have a donut. In the foot-care section of drug stores, you'll find donut-shaped foam pads in several diameters. They're made for corns but can help you ride more comfortably with a saddle sore, too. Simply place it with the sore in the center of the cutout to relieve direct pressure. The adhesive backing will keep it in place.

The Crucial First Ride

2008-07-29T02:45:00.000-07:00

Make Sure a Newcomer Returns for a Second Ride!
By Ed Pavelka

If you’ve been in this sport for long, you’ve probably seen it happen. An enthusiastic person shows up for his (or her) first ride with the local club. He’s a bit intimidated by the lingo he overhears, but that’s nothing compared to his anxiety about what to do and how to do it once the ride gets underway. Before long he’s trailing behind, spooked by the interplay of bike wheels and feeling as wanted as an IRS agent in a Super Bowl pool.

Do you think this guy will be back for another ride next weekend? Not likely.

It’s unfortunate, but experienced cyclists are often pretty tough on newcomers. It may be intentional because of the risks that an unskilled bike-handler creates for everyone, but more often it happens because we forget how much a novice cyclist doesn’t know. If you think about it, riding a bike isn’t all that easy.

Gero McGuffin has thought about it. She was 30 years old before she climbed onto a bike the first time, so she vividly recalls how intimidating beginning can be. Now a polished cyclist and the wife of cycling author Arnie Baker, M.D., Gero enjoys helping new riders get started in a way that ensures they’ll have a great time and come back for more.

Gero’s recommendations can be used anytime we’re riding with a newcomer. If you’re a beginning rider, these tips can help you have a more positive experience as you learn the sport.

Be Gentle

Gero’s core advice is useful when helping any new rider: “Treat them kindly, go slowly, and keep your expectations low. Give it your best shot, and you will help a person become a cyclist for the rest of their life.”

Now, here’s a digest of her specific tips.

* Don’t project your own cycling goals. They are much different for an experienced rider compared to a new rider. Let the person evolve. If he’s interested only in casual cycling, let him be. If he’s interested in fast recreational riding or racing, encourage him – but explain the dangers of trying to advance too fast before developing a foundation of skills and fitness.

* Take nothing for granted. Err on the side of proceeding too slowly and explaining too much. A new rider has lots of knowledge gaps.

* Watch your language. If you’re saying things like “upshift one cog” or “feather the brakes,” a newcomer isn’t going to understand and may be too embarrassed to admit it.

* Be polite. Even if made in jest, negative actions or comments can have a long-lasting impact.

* Ask the person about his concerns. These could include fear of traffic, fear of being left behind, fear of riding close to others, fear of the saddle, and even fear of wearing form-fitting Lycra clothing. Then work with the person to resolve the specific worry.

* Keep costs in perspective. Don’t make the person feel that he has to spend a lot of money to be a cyclist. Explain, however, that some things are a smart investment. For instance, if he’s in the market for a new bike, it should be the best quality he can afford. It should have a triple crankset for plenty of easy gears if there are hills in the area. He should buy a good saddle, cycling shorts with a padded liner and a helmet.

* Simplify the pedals. New cyclists are often afraid of toe clips and straps or clipless pedals. It’s helpful to install platform pedals that don’t require any technique to enter or exit.

* Check riding position. A newcomer will master pedaling and handling faster if he’s in a good position. Make sure there is a slight bend in his knees at the bottom of the pedal circle and that the handlebar is within an inch or so of saddle height. To really nail his position, use the guidelines in the RBR article, "How to Perfect Your Position and Technique."

Now We’re Rolling

* Stay off the road. When helping a first-timer learn to ride, use a big sports field or empty parking lot. Keep traffic out of the equation. Next, try park paths or quiet residential streets.

* Ride as slow as the beginner. Don’t do anything to make him go faster than his comfort level.

* Watch his eyes. Remind a new cyclist that he’ll ride a smoother, straighter line if he looks 10 or more feet ahead rather than directly in front of the wheel.

* Watch his grip. New riders are apt to be tense, locking their arms and squeezing the bar with white knuckles. Explain the advantages of flexed elbows and a secure but relaxed grip.

* Take away a hand. After starting, stopping, and maintaining a straight line, the next skill to work on is riding with one hand. This is important so the person can signal or reach for his water bottle without swerving. Next, move on to shifting gears – how and when.

* Keep it simple. Don’t overwhelm a newcomer with techniques. Let him get comfortable with the basics. As you see skill and confidence increase, add something new to work on.

* Stay back. If you ride behind the person he won’t feel like he’s always trying to catch up. Let him set the pace. Don’t ride beside him until he feels confident in his basic riding ability.

* Introduce drafting. Explain the advantages of riding behind a wheel, but let the newcomer keep a gap of several feet until he’s ready to move in closer.

* Take a real ride. For your first ride in regular conditions, plan a course that has a fun place to stop at the halfway point. It could be a coffee shop or an ice cream parlor. This is a good chance to relax, give pointers, answer questions and provide encouragement.

Make It Good for You, Too

One problem: Too many rides like just described can take some of the fun out of cycling for you. Here is Gero’s advice for how an experienced rider can get some training while riding with a newcomer. She saw her husband use these techniques while he was helping her get started. Don’t do these things during the initial rides. Wait till the newcomer has basic skills but still lacks speed.

The stronger rider can…

* stay in the same gear throughout the ride, spinning on downhills to work on leg speed and pedaling forcefully on climbs to build strength.

* assist the new rider up hills with pushes (assuming traffic conditions allow and you have the skill to do this safely).

* pedal with one leg at a time to benefit from the technique of isolated leg training.

* sprint up the road or to the top of a hill and then ride back, or drop back and then sprint to catch up.

Way to Go!

After a ride, always congratulate the new cyclist on his progress and welcome comments. As Gero notes, “They will have questions that you can hardly imagine, because you have been cycling for so long.”

Finally, encourage the person to ride on his own between rides with you. This will give him the chance to practice skills and gain fitness with absolutely no pressure. Just make sure he doesn’t go off the deep end and turn cycling into a physical and mental chore. This can happen when enthusiasm causes a person to boost their riding too fast. Firmly recommend an increase in time or distance of about 10 percent per week, with at least two rest days.

(A portion of this material was adapted from the coaching manual for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society, copyright 1999 by Arnie Baker, M.D.)

Trek Bicycles

2008-07-29T02:44:00.000-07:00

By Candis Reade

Trek brand bicycles made their debut in the year 1976! During the 1970s, a new energy consciousness created a great boom for bicycles. Trek grew during this period and won great recognition in the bike market. By the 1980s, Trek had introduced a wide range of over 850 models that resulted in the ground breaking success. Effectively designed in California, the Trek bicycles started dominating the bike racing circuits and continued to grow more popular. The most striking features of these bicycles include comfortable seats, thick tires and a unique system of gears compared to other road bikes.

Trek bicycles are the most renowned brand name in the United States of America. The bicycles are designed with higher end versions built with care in their headquarters in Waterloo, Wisconsin. They are among the most recognized industry brands, and manufacture a wide range of bicycles in order to meet the demands of riders across the world. During the career of Lance Armstrong, Trek supplied racing bicycles to the Discovery Channel and to the US Portal Service professional cycling teams.

Trek bicycles were on of the first in the market to introduce world-class mountain bikes. They have an outstanding reputation in introducing a variety of bicycle designs and continue to come up with innovations in designing their bicycle models. These bicycle manufacturing giants have never stopped innovating. They enhance their mechanisms to improve the comfort of riding, and improve the accessibility of high end bikes to the general public.

With respect to sales, Trek bicycles has had an increased demand and its sales have resulted in a greater profit ratio. Thanks to the popularity of Lance Armstrong and rising gas prices, more people than ever before are interested in taking up cycling. If you're looking for a high quality, reliable bike, Trek bicycles are one of the best options available.

Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
To learn more about Trek bicycles, please visit Biking Mountains for current articles and discussions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Candis_Reade

Biking Popularity In America

2008-07-29T02:42:00.000-07:00

By Joseph Devine

With the recent popularity of biking phenomenon Lance Armstrong, biking in America has seen a sharp increase in popularity. More and more people are taking their bikes out onto the road and training for various races that take place around the country. In response to this recent growth, cities are having trouble keeping up with and creating the proper infrastructure to accommodate these riders.

In some cities, like Austin, Texas, people on bikes are fully authorized to use public roads, so long as they adhere to customary driving law and regulations. This rather shoddy integration of bikers onto public roads sometimes frustrates drivers who are not used to the high-density population of bike riders in a city. Bike lanes and new laws that require car operators to be extra attentive when sharing the roads have helped some in ensuring driver and rider safety, while also keeping the flow of traffic moving.

On top of this, the buildup of parked bikes can get in the way of pedestrians who want to move about the city. While the trend hasn't reached epic levels, there is an expected increase of bike riders as American cities become more highly populated and the cost of gas prices rise.

Around the world, measures are being taking to help remedy the problem. In Berlin, a bike-share program has been put into place, where commute can simple rent a bike for a particular journey and place it in a designated spot after the ride is over. Once they have finished using it, another person may use the bike to get to a different spot in the city, starting from the destination of the previous rider. This system ensures that the flow of bicycles is consistent and that people still have a way to move about the city.

In China, there are entire sections of roads dedicated to bikers, because the level of traffic is so large that it would be impossible for them to operate in the midst of other vehicles. Their system of separating both car traffic and bike traffic makes for better flow. While no one example will show itself as the crowning solution for a cities traffic issues, they may reveal other ways we can deal with the increasing numbers of bikes on the road.

For more information on how this topic affect you and your family consult this website http://www.bike-locks.com/
Joseph Devine
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joseph_Devine

How to Clean a Bicycle Completely?

2008-07-29T02:40:00.000-07:00

By Markus Skupeika

Keeping a bike clean and rust free for a long time is not a very tough and time taking job if you have the right equipments and if you know how to clean a bike properly. If you are a first time bike cleaner, do not worry, it is as simple as riding the bike

People often ask, what should be the frequency of cleaning a bike It completely depends on your riding habits and location. If you drive through salty or muddy conditions or if you need to keep your bike outside, you may need to clean the bike often. Normally, cleaning the bike at least once a month is always recommended.

However, apart from these regular cleanings, you should also go for an end to end cleaning at least once a year.

Hanging a bike from a tree while cleaning it is never a good solution; it is always better to buy a bike stand for easy cleaning. Hanging a bike by the tree makes the whole process more time consuming and tough. Apart from that you also need some cleaners and lubricants along with clean soft cloth to clean your bike properly. However, while selecting a cleaner, look for multipurpose organic rust remover for metal. Some people use car shampoo or other similar products to clean a bike At the same time some people use simple water to wipe clean the bike However, none of these methods are generally recommended by most of the seasoned bikers and maintenance professionals. An organic rust cleaner will not only clean your bike it would also make sure that your bike does not get rusted.

If it is a regular cleaning, you can simply wipe the bike with the cleaner and wax it. You will find some good quality wax in a nearby cycle store. However, while selecting a wax, do not go for the car wax. You can easily find some good quality bike wax for your bicycle.

At the end of the cleaning, do not forget to use grease or other lubricants. You can also use some color coating to fix rust problems. However, a lot of new bikers make a great mistake here. They think that using a lot of lubricants is good for their bike On the contrary excess lubricant will attract more dust and dirt particle and would harm the bike's performance in near future.

If you are going for the yearly cleaning, the process may take you some more time. At first mount the bike on the bike stand and remove all the parts (hope that you are confident enough to reinstall all parts otherwise contact your local bike shop). Now use some degreaser to remove grease from different parts of the bike like bearings, chain etc. Now clean all the parts with some organic rust removers that you have already bought for regular cleaning. You should give proper attention to the chain and chain wheel.

After you have cleaned the bike properly use some lubricant and reinstall all the parts back. Do not leave any bolts and nuts loose as it may cause huge problem later on while you are riding the bike

You can also try interchanging wheels but in case of tire, keep the healthy one in the rear wheel.

That's it - you are ready to roll with a beautiful bike.

Why should you select organic rust removers to remove rust from metal?

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Markus_Skupeika

Markus Skupeika - EzineArticles Expert Author

Bike Wheels and the Different Types of Bike Wheels

2008-07-29T02:38:00.000-07:00

By Ilse Hagen

Riding bicycles are a good form of exercise, plus it helps save the environment too because you won't be creating or generating any pollution. The popularity of bikes today are greatly increasing, what with the rising prices of fuel plus the increasing traffic in the streets, forcing people to look for more practical ways to get from one place to another. In caring for your bike, you have to use right types of bike wheels to make sure that your bike is working properly.

What they are

Before going to the types of bike wheels, you have to understand that a bicycle wheel is different from regular car wheels because they have thinner yet bigger tires. They also are self-butted and are lightweight compared to car wheels. Bike wheels can have as much as 48 spokes.
The main parts of bike wheels are:

Hub - this is the centermost part of the bike wheel and consists of the axle, the hub shell, and the bearings. It supports the entire wheel and is usually made from steel or aluminum.

Axle - attached to dropouts on the frame and contains the nuts and bolts as well as the quick release, which allows you to easily install and remove the wheels if needed.

Bearings - allow the wheel itself to rotate freely

Kinds

The types of bike wheels are:

Racing bike wheels - made from lightweight and highly aerodynamic materials that allow you to glide and drive swiftly on smooth terrains and different race tracks. They have vast rim depths and are made from aluminum.

Mountain bike wheels - made for mountain bikes and are durable for rough terrains. They have the standard mountain bike rim size of 26 inches and have lower air pressures for greater traction and shock absorption.

BMX wheels - made for BMX bikes, these are wider and shorter than the bike wheels of a mountain bike and allow for greater shock absorption and pressure. These can handle dirt and rough terrain.

Important buying tips

More information on Bicycle Wheels is available in Picky Guide, one of the fastest growing online magazines giving free consumer reviews and information.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ilse_Hagen

The Bicycle Repair - Are You Up to It?

2008-07-29T02:37:00.000-07:00

By Daniel Lilly

Being a fix-it person is a tough job when you lack the correct tools.

Like all repair jobs the correct tools can make a world of difference. With the correct tools the job goes faster and your frustration level is usually lower.

No matter how involved you would like to be in doing your own bike repairs, a small compact set of tools you can carry in your bike bag is a must.

This compact set of tools will allow you to do some minor repairs/adjustments when they needed on the road.

Some things compact tool sets can help with are:

Tire changes
Brake adjustments
Derailleur adjustments
And other minor changes

To be able to do these simple things will save you lots of time on the side of the road.

Since the minimums are covered let's find out what other tools can be helpful.

Now you have a compact tool set for the road. How about the home?

To be able to do general maintenance and keep your bike running smoothly you should have a small tool box at home.

This tool box should have all the same things as your compact with some other wrenches for greasing those bearings or changing them out.

It is good to have a tool which takes the chain apart so you can replace it. You will need to replace your chain when you see noticeable wear. A chain is several small bearings connected together.

If you are not sure where to start, start with a compact tool set. It is better to be prepared than wishing you had been when it is too late.

See you on the streets!

For more information and tool sets to purchase: http://www.mycyclingsource.com/bicycle-repair-tool.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Lilly

Daniel Lilly - EzineArticles Expert Author

Vintage Bicycles - Older is Better

2008-07-29T02:35:00.000-07:00

By Holly Hunt

Vintage bicycle posters are not simply colorful ads of an era designed to sell a product. They represent a form of pop art that surrounds us in our every day living and we have a tendency to overlook. The colorful artwork that has been used in their advertisements is as much a collectors item as the bikes themselves. Whether found in advertisements or announcements we can see how many of the products we love have been transformed into beautiful iconic advertisements which are coveted in a similar fashion. A perfect example of this, is found in the colorful posters and ads for vintage bikes like the Adler Bicycle. It is clear from these and many other vintage bicycle posters, that the love we have for our first "two-wheeler" is still alive within us all.

As with the purchase of any vintage poster, one must be certain to be aware of what to avoid and what constitutes a "good deal". It also never hurts to take some time to educate yourself on how to spot the fakes from the originals. You also want to make sure you are not only purchasing authentic vintage posters but you also want to make sure to pay special attention to the wear and tear on the poster. The value of your investment is directly related to so many different variables, but the condition it is in is something that we don't want to overlook. Make sure there are no tears or creases that may take away from the overall value of the poster. Although normal wear and tear can be expected be sure to avoid posters that have taken a beating over the years.

Not all collectors are in search of the original posters of old bicycles, some of them just happy to have good quality reproduction posters. There are many collectors in search of old bicycle posters, and there is only a limited number of original posters that are available.

Where and what to shop for are definitely key points to keep in mind. Research is essential to being able to not only spot a diamond in the rough kind of deal, but it helps to specialize in a particular type or size of poster, a certain style or even genre that catches your attention. Whatever you choose your specialty to be, you can be sure to yield much more effective results if you can find a style you like, do your homework and keep your eyes peeled.

When shopping for vintage bicycle posters, make sure you do your research. Bicycles have been a part of our daily lives almost since the first moment they became available to us. Not only for leisure or just for kids, we see vintage bicycles in courier positions and as a means for transportation. If you follow these simple guidelines you will have a great time collecting and riding vintage bicycles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Holly_Hunt

Holly Hunt - EzineArticles Expert Author

How Do You Film the Tour De France?

2008-07-29T02:34:00.000-07:00

By Mike Josh Ward

The 2008 Tour de France has been one of the most exciting Tour races in a long time. With multiple GC (overall fastest rider) contenders all within seconds of each other the yellow jersey could change any day. The Tour's popularity has been rising in the US ever since Lance Armstrong's astounding seven consecutive victories. More than any other rider has achieved in history. In Europe its popularity may be hard to grasp. Fans will camp out for weeks just to get the best spots on the hardest climbs. It is estimated Tour de France television viewership to be well over 1 billion. How do you film an event that plays out over hundreds of kilometers where breakaway riders may be 10 or 15 minutes up the road? Capturing such an event on film and televising a sport where the venue is an entire country is an impressive technical feat involving thousands of wired and wireless cameras, hundreds of journalists, and a high tech communications network.

Fans watching expect to see close ups of the pain and determination on their heroes faces as they power away from the field, the sensational crashes where bikes and bodies go flying through the air, hectic sprint finishes, and all the other elements that make the race exciting. The majority of the tour is filmed by a team camera operators riding on the back of touring motorcycles. These guys will literally get in the riders faces as they follow the race up the mountains and down the harrowing descents at blood curdling speeds. This is a dangerous job as speeds may be as racer speeds may be as high as 90km/hr approaching hairpin turns, many times skidding around switch backs and even riding off the road. The wireless cameras used here are linked up to helicopters following the race.

Up to three helicopters will be in the air at all times filming the Tour. These copters are fitted with advanced gyroscopic stabilized video cameras, which enable operators to zoom in on the action. These state of the art cameras are the same technology used by military, law enforcement, news agencies, and NASA. Pilots must be every aware of their surroundings keeping in mind the constant changes of elevations as riders ascend and descend mountains. They must also be cognizant not to fly over fans and have an eye out for emergency landing spots. Every stage of the tour is planned with helicopter flight plans in mind.

Static cameras and aerials near the stage finishes ensure fans get the best views of sprint finishes and grueling mountain top battles. All of this video and audio data is beamed to a group of mobile production trucks at the host at the host city. Over 40 miles of cabling feeds the footage to a host a journalists for voice over commentary, and then sent to the fans in 170 countries worldwide. Co-ordination must be seamless and the setup is precise. One mistake and fans in Spain might end up with commentary in Russian. Security is tight around these facilities, which are usually guarded by police forces operating network of CCTV cameras comprised of, dome cameras, wireless security cameras, and other hidden cameras.

You would think that all this setup would keep production workers, and volunteers in host cities busy 24/7, but how long does it really take? The science is dialed in it can be done in 2 hours every morning and evening. The equipment is broken down as soon as the riders cross the finish line and driven to the next city. Setup begins again the next day starting at around 3 o'clock in the morning.

About the Author: Mike Ward is the owner and operator of Protection Depot, a leading online provider of wireless security cameras and hidden cameras. For more information about security cameras, please visit http://www.security-cams.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mike_Josh_Ward

Trek Mountain Bike Review

2008-07-29T02:31:00.000-07:00

By Clifford Young

Trek is one of the best companies that could offer just about anyone their choice of a mountain bike, whether they are shopping to buy for their very first one or they are biking enthusiasts looking for newer models to add on to their collection. Although there are many companies that offer mountain bikes, the Trek mountain bikes are really among the most trusted cycling machines that are depended on by a great number of experienced bikers.

Trek is known to be the creator of a wide choice of mountain bikes. The Trek 6500 and the Trek 820 are the company's most popular and perceived to be among the best mountain bikes. If anyone will look at the wide range of choices of Trek mountain bikes, then he or she will probably get muddled up as to what they will end up buying. However, if they will just take the time to examine and look into these bikes before they actually buy them, then they will get to know what they want in just a matter of time. If they are serious bikers, then they would probably have a clear idea on what suits them and what could provide them with the support and power that they need. But, if they are shopping for mountain bikes for the first time, then they would probably need extra time to do their homework to make the best choice.

One of the best Trek mountain bikes is the Trek 820, which is known to be the mountain bike for all-around use. Having a frame of high-tensile steel, this bile allows anyone to have an upright position that is comfortable for biking. A great value for anyone's money, this bike is excellent for all terrain types and is perfect for those bikes rides that will take anyone from sun-up to sundown to complete. While another great mountain bike from Trek is the Trek 6500, the Trek 3700 is also another model that is worth looking into. This mountain bike with its aluminum frame is perfect for those trails and tarmac bike rides. Its RST suspension form lets any biker enjoy his ride in a comfortable way. Both male and female bikers would find this bike suitable for them.

Among the primary things that anyone should always remember about Trek mountain bikes they do not only offer outstanding support to a biker but also utmost comfort as well. This is one great factor that anyone should consider when it comes to looking for and buying a mountain bike. While there are a lot of companies now that offer different varieties of mountain bikes, if it is quality, reliability and reasonable prices that anyone is looking for, then Trek is definitely among the companies that can be trusted to provide all these and more.

Clifford Young is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about mountain bikes, please visit High Tech Mountain Bikes for current articles and discussions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clifford_Young

Outdoor Biking - The Smart Sport

2008-07-29T02:30:00.000-07:00

By Lyla Feldman

With gas prices sky rocketing today, why not try biking as an alternative to driving? It is a great source of cardiovascular exercise as well as very budget friendly. If you are lucky enough to live within a safe biking distance to your work, then you are ahead of the game. Running errands on a bike is also a great option. Not only are you going green and saving money, you are also doing your body and mind a favor.

You can't go wrong with biking. It minimizes the risk of coronary heart disease and protects against strokes, diabetes, and cancer. Regular cycling keeps your blood pressure in tact and also builds stamina, enabling you to carry out every day tasks more easily. You can shed extra calories and lose that fat on our abs we all love. It improves your overall balance and coordination as do most exercises. It boosts your metabolism, therefore making your weight loss goal so much easier to achieve. Your goal should not be a number, either. It should be a statement along with plans on what you are going to do to maintain a healthy weight in the long term.

By biking in the outdoors, you have the added bonus of breathing in that fresh air and getting vitamin D from the sun if you live in a pollution free environment void of car fumes. Also, if you are biking in a city area it is a good idea to keep an eye out for car doors opening which can be rather painful. Sometimes, biking can be more stressful than peaceful in cities due to high traffic. I have heard too many horror stories having to do with accidents on bikes and they aren't just associated with motorcycles. However, by practicing common sense and caution, cycling leads to a more peaceful tension free life. It increases your life expectancy so you will be able to play with your grand children and live a long, healthy life.

Lyla Feldman writes about health and fitness. Some of her favorite passions include writing about energy drinks and natural sleep aids.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lyla_Feldman

Fixed Gear Bikes

2008-07-29T02:28:00.000-07:00

Fixed Gear Bikes - What Are They and Why Are They Popular?
By John Jacoby

Some of you may have heard the kid down the street or even seen the young punk on the corner riding around and what looks like a 10 speed bike. However, if you take a closer look, you'll discover that there aren't 10 speeds on that bike. In fact, you'd probably discover that there is just a single speed. That's because these kids undoubtedly took their parents old Schwinn, took off the derailer, put on a fixed-gear or track-bike hub, took off the brakes, slapped on some crazy "mustache" handle bars, rolled up their pants, and rode down to the closes critical mass ride with their new converted fixed gear (OR spent a few hundred bucks to have someone do it for them).

In any regards, fixed gear bikes are all the rage in the hipster population. And it couldn't have come at a better time. With gas prices at an all time high and the need to go "Green", you can't blame the kids for huffing it on 2 wheels for free and no exhaust smoke rather than spending close to hundreds each month just to go a few miles down the road and spew forth fumes for miles (come on admit it - you've driven to places that you totally could have walked to). So if you're new to this fixed gear bike thing and are curious about how it all works, here's a quick breeze through the basics.

HOW A FIXED GEAR BIKE WORKS

It's simple. Fixed gear bikes are exactly that - fixed! Also known as a fixed wheel bicycle, it's basically a bicycle without the ability to coast (coast meaning you stop pedaling but the back hub still spins). The sprocket is screwed directly on to the hub and there is no freewheel mechanism. That means you can't coast on a fixed gear bike. Your feet are always pedaling. As exhausting as this sounds, it does provide you with more efficiency when pedaling.

Most fixed gear bicycles only have one gear ratio. This means there are no additional gears to switch to. Your typical BMX bike is a single speed gear, however, BMX bikes tend to have freewheels (aka you can COAST!).

WHY DID FIXED GEAR BIKES TAKE OFF?

Some say the popularity of fixed gear bikes can be traced back to bike messengers. They've been using fixed / single speed bicycles for years as it helps them get around faster (back to the whole efficiency of movement thing). Bike messengers were also known for being renegades on some level and having a "punk" attitude. This combined with the general popularity of bikes, skateboarding, surfing, and anything else that allows the youth of today to break free of government mandated roads and public transit system and blaze their own trails across the land (and look good doing it too).

WILL THE FIXED GEAR BIKE CRAZY LAST?

Who knows. I honestly hope so because it is a way to cut down on pollutants, spend less on gas, stay in shape, AND make a statement - ALL AT THE SAME TIME! Who could ask for anything more (Toyyyota!).

John enjoys stuff. Stuff is cool. This article is on fixed gear bikes. They are cool. For more cool stuff, I suggest http://www.thefixedgeargallery.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Jacoby

Bicycle Accessories That Make Riding Easier

2008-07-29T02:26:00.000-07:00

Bicycle Accessories That Make Riding Easier
By Chris H.

When you browse around a bike shop, it is easy to get caught up in all of the accessories there are to buy. Some you can easily brush off and find no need for, however, even casual bike riders should consider purchasing various bicycling accessories to make their riding much more comfortable. You don't need any accessories to ride a bike (accept for a helmet for safety), however, I realized after starting back to riding that specific items are now a necessity for myself.

The first thing I purchased for my bicycle was a well-cushioned comfort seat. You can find various types in a bike shop including ones that you can pull over your regular seat. I prefer buying a whole new seat rather than to cover up an uncomfortable one. If you ride for exercise or just for fun, a good padded seat will allow you to ride for much longer periods of time. You can install a new seat yourself or have the bike shop do it for you. Seats are one of the many bicycle parts that are easy to self install.

Another accessory update that helps are pedals with teeth. Most new bicycles come with stock pedals that offer no real grip. These types of pedals are made of solid steel and have teeth or claws that provide a strong grip for the soles of your shoes. These types of pedals can prevent your feet from slipping off of the pedals which can cause an accident.

If you do any type of night riding, it would be wise to invest in a quality headlight. I learned not to go too cheap on a bicycle light because the cheaper models barely light up enough for you to see what is ahead of you. A good high beam bicycle light will provide tons of light to see the road ahead as well as alert any oncoming traffic. The better quality lights usually require a battery pack that are rechargeable. The same goes for having a back light. These are not as expensive but are a good idea to have as the more light you have the less chance of cars not seeing you.

One accessory that you may not consider is the bicycle bell. I was one of those people who laughed at the thought of having a bell on my bike. A bell makes it much easier to warn people ahead of you to make way because you are coming through. This helps a lot when you are on a bike trail. Some bike trails also have people walking on them. Rather than yelling out "on your left" or "on your right", you can simply ring your bell a few times and people will move to the side. This also works great when passing up other bike riders who may not hear you yell out.

Other accessories that add to comfort are bicycle gloves and bottle attachment. Padded gloves will save your hands from calluses and a bottle attachment makes carrying water or a sports drink much easier. Next time you are browsing bicycle accessories, you may want to ask yourself if a particular item could make your riding experience much more comfortable as well as safer.

You can find cheap bicycle parts online as well as other bike accessories.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_H.

Electric Bike Options

2008-07-29T02:24:00.000-07:00

Electric Bike Options - Perfect Transportation For a Better Lifestyle
By Jacob Mathews

As gas prices soar and concerns grow over global warming, alternative fuel vehicles are gaining traction. When it comes to cars, trucks, and SUVs, a hybrid is currently the most popular alternative to a gas powered engine. But when it comes to short-range commutes, say 20 miles or less, an electric bike is a fun, economical, and environmentally friendly option. For only pennies, your powered bicycle can get you from place to place without breaking a sweat and without the hassles of traffic congestion.

An electric bike has pedals like an ordinary bicycle, and you can use those pedals to propel yourself under your own power. But it also has an electric motor, which you can use to augment your pedaling. The supplemental power is useful when starting from a stop or when riding against the wind. Alternatively, you can let the electric motor provide all the power while you sit back and enjoy the ride. This makes a motor powered bicycle one of the most versatile vehicles around. There are even models that fold up for easy storage or travel, as well as recumbent versions, which will take bicycling to a new level of relaxation (just don't fall asleep at the wheel!).

A battery powered bike can be purchased as an off-the-shelf item, or you can purchase a conversion kit to convert most any bicycle to an electric bicycle. The important factors to consider when selecting an electric bike are battery life (which determines how far you can travel on a charge), speed, and durability. Today's electric bicycles take advantage of recent advances in battery technology. Many models are powered by nickel-metal-hydride or lithium ion batteries, which can give a travel range of one two hours. Most models are capable of reaching speeds of 10 to 20 miles per hour. Durability is an important consideration, and like anything, you get what you pay for. You can spend under $500 for an economy model, but the quality may disappoint you. The better quality bikes can be purchased for around $500 to $1000. Check your local laws, but generally there is no registration required for a battery powered bicycle.

Find an electric bike that's perfect for your lifestyle at Electric Bike Depot

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jacob_Mathews

The Best of Mountain Bikes

2008-07-29T02:23:00.000-07:00

Hybrid Bicycles - The Best of Mountain Bikes and Comfort Bikes in One
By Chris H.

When I was a kid, my first bicycle was the typical banana seat with training wheels. My next bicycle was a 10-speed which I rode around the neighborhood not knowing how to actually use the gears. When I became an adult I stopped riding all together until a good friend of mine decided we should start bike riding to help shed some extra weight. I thought it was a great idea as there are bike trails in my neighborhood.

Since I had not rode in years, I didn't realize just how many types of bikes are available. You have everything from racing bikes to mountain bikes. I wanted something that could handle some rough terrain here and there while still allowing me to be comfortable on a long ride. Before I purchased my current bike, I was given one by my parents. It was a mountain bike that they were given and I figured I would be fine using it on the local bike trails. After a few rides, I realized that a mountain bike was not going to cut it. I was constantly leaning forward placing all of my weight on my wrists causing pain after only 20 minutes of riding. It was meant for maneuvering rocky areas and hills, not flat concrete bike trails. I quickly realized I would need to invest in a more comfortable bicycle.

My friend suggested I purchase a comfort bike. She had one and was extremely happy riding it for long periods of time. I went to my local bike shop and came across another version of a comfort bike which is called a hybrid. The hybrid is a mix between mountain bike and comfort bike. This was just my style as I like having the option of being able to ride on other surfaces other than flat concrete. I picked out my bike and took it for a test ride. It was a perfect sized frame and the handles were tall enough (and adjustable) to where I was not leaning forward the way I was on a mountain bike.

The only other adjustment I made was to put on a comfort seat as the stock seat was extremely uncomfortable even for short rides. I also like the tires on my hybrid bicycle because they did not have chunky tread the way my previous mountain bike did. You really don't need that type of tread unless you are doing actual mountain biking. Another great thing about hybrid bicycles is that you can customize them to lean more towards being a mountain bike or being a comfort bike. While my hybrid is more about comfort, I can still take it out on a mountain bike trail and feel fine. I have rode for a couple hours at the most on my hybrid bicycle and had no pain or discomfort after. Now bike riding is a fun part of my exercise regimen and helps me to maintain a healthy weight. If you want the best of both worlds when it comes to bike riding, I suggest checking out a hybrid bicycle and customizing it to your taste.

Customize your bike with discount bicycle parts or save on cheap comfort hybrid bikes today.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_H.

Floyd Landis Being Made an Example

2008-07-29T02:22:00.000-07:00

By Joe Pietaro

Adding insult to injury, the Court of Arbitration for Sport handed down a tough decision on Floyd Landis and literally made him pay. After being denied his appeal, the cyclist was roundly criticized in the decision and ordered to hand over $100,000 towards the U.S. Anti-Doping Agency legal fees. This is the second setback for Landis, who was stripped of his 2006 Tour de France championship after testing positive for testosterone. All told, he has spent more than $2 million of his own and fundraiser's money on his appeals, all for naught. When you look into this case further, it is apparent that Landis never had a prayer and looks like an anti-doping punching bag.Seeing light at the end of the tunnel, Landis used part of his arbitration case from last May as his defense for the latest one. His two-year ban was upheld then, but the panel "scolded" the USADA, along with their testing labs, for "using practices that were less than airtight."

A 58-page decision handed down by a three-person panel were not swayed by the case brought before them by Maurice Suh, Landis' attorney, stating that the lab in France followed international standards. They read Landis, 32, the riot act, in that his case was based on muddling the evidence and embarrassing the French lab."The Panel has found no evidence at all to sustain any of these serious allegations," part of the decision read. "Moreover, the Panel is surprised that such allegations should be pursued in the closing brief when it must have been clear at the end of the hearing that there was no evidential basis from expert testimony or otherwise support them."Predictably, Travis Tygart reveled in the aftermath of the decision. "We are pleased that justice was served and that Mr. Landis was not able to escape the consequences of his doping or his effort to attack those who protect the rights of clean athletes," the USADA CEO told reporters. While Landis' attorney harped on the fact that the USADA and World Doping Agency have more resources than the individual athlete - who has to pay for his own appeal - that would not have made a difference in this case.

Even though both sets of arbitrators agreed that there was "less than ideal laboratory practices" used, they would not budge on the validity and integrity of the test. Once that was established in their minds, the case was over. The Landis camp did not have a chance from day one. How would it have looked less than a week before the 2008 Tour de France is set to begin to give a banned cyclist his title back? It would have - in the eyes of the sport - set a bad precedent for other competitors. Add the fact that the summer Olympics are just around the corner, and international competition is looking to distance itself away from performance-enhancing drugs and anyone that allegedly used them.

Landis' timing couldn't have been worse, which of course, is no fault of his. If this did anything, it strengthened the position of the Anti-Doping Agencies following what looks to be sloppy work on their part. Rest assured, the next time they have a lab - especially the one in question in France - perform a drug test, they will dot their I's and cross their T's.

By Joe Pietaro, Founding Editor of MuscleSport Mag ( http://www.musclesportmag.com )
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joe_Pietaro