Sosauce Travel Geek blog

Making Hostel Friends in San Sebastian

2010-07-02T17:43:56Z

I never felt lonely traveling on my own around Spain. I was meeting new people at every turn, so I wasn’t surprised that I hit it off well with my new hostel mates upon arriving in San Sebastian. I was more shocked at how touched I was at the meaningful connections I left with.

It was the first night of San Sebastian and our hostel managers at the Kaixo Hostel, two So-Cal looking surfer dudes, were throwing a dinner party for us. I had chosen to stay in that night as I had just tested my severely nonathletic body in a two hour bike tour of Donostia and was very much looking forward to getting to know everyone there. I was sharing a room with three girls who recently graduated from U Penn, doing the stereotypical “backpacking through Europe” excursion, a beautiful German girl named Verena who was a nurse back in Berlin, now accompanying a friend who was moving to San Sebastian for University, and a wickedly charming and funny Aussie body surfer named Luke who had just finished a successful tour with his band. We had just wrapped up a few hours of drinking wine and chatting about American pop culture when we realized it was about time to close the kitchen. So we all headed into our rooms to get ready for bed. Or so we thought.

As we all were unpacking, repacking, making our beds, and changing into pajamas, silly conversations stirred up. Having Luke as the only male in the room, us girls were fascinated with his stories of being on the road, his choice of tattoos, and his adventures in the ocean. His sense of humor was addicting and we were showing no signs of growing tiresome as we exchanged “lost in translation” moments and cultural references. We quoted movies, shared embarrassing moments, discussed our favorite animals, and revealed past horrible hostel stories. It was a night of too many giggles and very little sleep. But we all went to bed with big smiles on our faces, giddy with excitement for the rest of our stay.

Verena and I on the boardwalk of La Concha

Luke and I on the boardwalk of La Concha

The next day Verena, Luke, and I decided to be beach bums. A nice filling breakfast at the cafe downstairs (complete with cafe con leche, of course!) we set off to the surfers central at Ondaretta as Luke had based his trip to San Sebastian around hitting a few waves. Unfortunately the waves were barely rising so we planted on the sand and decided to catch a few rays instead. As we lay on the soft brown earth the three of us opened up about how travel had changed our lives, even in the most subtle ways. Our time in Europe had exposed us to a greater world where people were welcoming, genuine, helpful, and most of all – inspiring. We talked about what we had learned in our travels, the people we met, the food we ate, the culture we grew to love, and quickly became closer friends that afternoon. We each felt a special bond to each other and made a pact to spend as much time together during our stay in San Sebastian. We decided to test our new friendship with a spiritual hike up Monte Urgell Mendia to see the giant Jesus statue.

A quick pinxtos lunch off the beach and shower back at the hostel, we head back out to trek the mountain side of San Sebastian. We walked through Parque de Alderdi-Eder, Ayuntamiento, Carrousel Belle, Iglesia de Santa Maria, and even stopped for some gelato before tackling the hills. Adding his own musical touch to the adventure, Luke brought along his acoustic guitar, giving our trek its own signature soundtrack complete with impromptu sing alongs and covers. With every step we took, we sung out another line, let out a laugh, and took in a deep breath, pushing onward.

Verena and Luke singing a song for Jesus

The trek proved challenging but ridiculously fun and fulfilling. Without Verena and Luke by my side, I would have never completed the hike and felt so good after. Maybe Jesus heard our songs and decided to be on our side that afternoon.

Jesus approves our songs

The next few days I got to spend time with both Verena and Luke privately, and the more I got to know them the more I knew I’d miss them terribly once I had to leave. They were incredibly humorous and kind, and similar to my friends back home. I wanted to pack them in my suitcase and bring them to Madrid with me.

Leaving San Sebastian was bitter sweet, as all my previous goodbyes had been in Spain. After listening to countless Travel Geeks telling their stories of friendships on the road, I was finally understanding their sentiments. It was easy to make friends, it was easy to connect with other people around the world, and it was something indescribable to friends and family back home. I felt grateful and ecstatic to have bonded with such great people and I think of them everyday.

No Facebook wall post can ever come close to replacing those times together.

Daily Photo: Friday, July 2nd

2010-06-27T22:42:50Z

India by Anne

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Daily Photo: Thursday, July 1st

2010-06-27T22:42:26Z

Mediterranean by Jean

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Daily Photo: Wednesday, June 30th

2010-06-27T22:32:39Z

South Kleang by Elizabeth

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Daily Photo: Tuesday, June 29th

2010-06-26T17:48:42Z

Brussels Cafe by Colleen

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Photo Essay: Madrid – History, Landmarks, and Food

2010-06-28T13:39:08Z

Madrid was the final leg of my first solo trip to Spain. I was spending a total of three days in the capitol city with no real agenda. I was exhausted from traveling so much the past week, that I was really just looking forward to exploring the streets of Madrid at my own pace – getting to know its history, food, and landmarks. I’m glad to report I know a bit about all three now.

By walking for hours on end through various small back streets and barrios, I was able to discover local eateries, boutique shops, and dated buildings that make up Madrid’s city life. I was continually impressed by the Madrileños’ surroundings, so naturally I couldn’t help but photograph my way around. Here are some of my favorite experiences traveling through Madrid:

Palacio Real

The same afternoon I had arrived in Madrid I met a couple from Chicago traveling around Spain. Super friendly, they offered to take me on a walking tour around the city to check out some sight-seeing spots. Palacio Real was among our first stops. Home to Spanish royalty, the Royal Palace is a lavish building now open for public viewing and special ceremonies. This palace remains in its original form adorned in detailed furnishings of silver, white, and gold. The palace is protected by a tall iron fence that stands in front of the palace courtyard, which is where people walk up to take some close up shots of the monument. Inside, the palace hosts some of the most valued art as well as state affairs, banquet halls, and plush guest rooms. For a small entrance fee, you can see all of this first hand. I chose to admire the Royal Palace from the outside.

La Rosaleda

Having some energy from a good night’s sleep, I took my second day in Madrid to get a head start on seeing as much as possible in one afternoon. After a great brunch near the Reina Sofia, I chose to dive in Buen Retiro Park, the Spanish equivalent of Central Park in New York. Despite a serious allergy attack, I trekked on to stumble upon a gorgeous rose garden. Apparently, Madrid is known for its many public gardens and parks, so this was a perfect little place to stop at. Resembling the “Secret Garden” I found La Rosaleda to be a hidden gem of Parque de Buen Retiro with its stunning array of colors, peaceful atmosphere, and adorable ponds and fountains. I highly recommend stopping here if you are nearby.

Palacio de Cristal

Continuing along the many paths in Parque de Buen Retiro, I found my way to Palacio de Cristal, a glass palace modeled after its sister building in London. The Crystal Palace is designed to resemble a Greek cross, and built on a brick base decorated with ceramic. It is absolutely incredible to see in person, nearly breath-taking at how beautiful it is, set behind a lush green lake, surrounded by lovely floral arrangements and trees. Inside you can take a 360 view of the entire see-through windows looking out past the palace and down the park. Upon leaving I took a stroll under a small waterfall beside ducks, geese, and swans. The palace truly felt magical.

Croquetas de Bacalao y Vermut

Of course my excursion in Madrid wouldn’t be complete without a tapas crawl. And boy did I eat and drink my way around the city! I love food, so this by far was my favorite part of getting to know Madrid (and Spain in general). Each morning I would start my day at a small cafe to order cafe con leche y tostada, then for lunch I would go with hostel friends in groups to local restaurants and bars to order dishes such as patatas bravas, croquetas, pan, empanadas, and drinks. I was shocked at how good all the food was and on top of that, how cheap it was to dine! The best night of tapas crawling in Madrid was on my second night where I decided to take out a few study abroad students from Philadelphia on a tapas crawl through some nearby barrios. We started at Las Bravas, known for their patatas bravas, on Calle Espoz y Mina. Of course we ordered their potatoes with spicy tomato sauce along with a round of canya – a delicious start to the night. From there we peeked into a dark saloon around the corner that I had stumbled in the night before. We sat down and ordered a round of Vermut which was accompanied by complimentary bite-size appetizers of bread and olive oil with sliced salami. Impressive. Next we ordered sangria with tortillas. Feeling good, we decided to carry on the night at another place near La Plaza Mayor. This hole in the wall restaurant looked like a dungeon, having to walk down narrow stone stairs to the basement portion where it then burst with locals heavy in conversation and laughs. Immediately we were seated and bought a round of canya and plate of calamari. That really hit the spot. We couldn’t stop smiling. Neither were we in the mood to stop eating. Soon after we got a craving for churros so we hiked out to La Plaza Mayor and popped into a churreria, where we ended the night dipping churros in hot chocolate, talking about never going back home.

Lightly grilled salmon with melted brie on toast and Vermut

Madrid left me aching in exhaustion, but in a good way. Though I didn’t spend my nights clubbing away, I had fun connecting to its people through my favorite ways: food, history, and the outdoors. It is a great city to absorb in such a small time and I walked away with a new found love for such urban settings. The Madrileños are pretty lucky.

To read more about my stay in Madrid, check out my journal entries here.

Daily Photo: Monday, June 28th

2010-06-26T17:23:08Z

Graduation Trip by Andy

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Daily Photo: Friday, June 25th

2010-06-22T22:57:58Z

Royal Palace by Alisha

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Wining & Dining in Catalonia

2010-06-24T17:13:24Z

Oh, so this is how it feels to be Anthony Bourdain on No Reservations.

It’s around noontime and I’m sitting at a small metal table with my friend Julià in the middle of a forum once home to Cesar, the Roman Emperor, in the coastal town of Tarragona. It is absolutely gorgeous here; hands down the most beautiful place I’ve ever set foot in. The sun is high, there is a farmer’s market stand to my left, and in front of me is a man strumming a guitar, singing his heart out to the patrons nearby. This is fabulous.

looking at the open forum in Tarragona

A few moments later we are joined by Julià’s friends who have bumped into us sitting outside. Immediately they begin chatting in Catalan and I am lost. But they are kind enough to introduce themselves and attempt to speak with me in English. We flip flop in conversation, exchanging words in Spanish and English. I like them already.

It’s time for food. Julià explains to me that it is not yet lunch time, so we must order a few small appetizers. A bigger meal is expected later on in the afternoon for a real lunch, as custom goes. I’m asked what I want to eat, to which I reply “anything and everything.” I’m feeling the spirit of Catalonia so I want to eat whatever the Catalans eat. Just don’t serve me shellfish (I’m allergic!) and we’re good.

A man who appears to be the waiter is waved over. Apparently there is no menu, which I find odd but awesome. Julià takes lead on ordering our food: patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with a spicy tomato sauce), sepia amb deliali (a calamari-like fish cut in cubes tossed in a mayonaisse-based cream sauce), croquetas de bacalao (fried balls of cod fish) and pa amb tomàquet (cut up pieces of baquette topped with mashed tomatoes). For drinks we order a round of canya (beer) and sweet Vermut (fortified wine mixed with sparkling water). This is the first time I really feel like I’m blending in amongst the locals. Everything is foreign and new to me, but equally thrilling and infatuating. I could live like this forever.

bread with olive oil and salami and a glass of Vermut

croquetas de bacalao and canya

patatas bravas and canya

The food here by far is the best I’ve tasted since dining in Spain. It was clear that only the freshest, richest ingredients were used and in such a simple manner. I was in heaven.

I loved every dish placed down in front of me. The patatas bravas featured lightly pan-seared potatoes, tough on the outside but full of soft potato mash on the inside. The red sauce spooned on top was a moderate spice, yet refreshing and a wonderful addition. The croquetas were addicting quite frankly. It’s fried food, how could you go wrong?! The diced fish – though somewhat gummy – was tasty and surprisingly good to my palate (I don’t do seafood very much). I couldn’t stop eating. I was quite embarrassed as I noticed I had been eating more than the people next to me. It was just all too delicious. And I didn’t want to stop.

As I leaned back against my chair feeling a slight buzz on, I soaked in the atmosphere around me. Here I was in the middle of an ancient Roman forum surrounded by beautiful people speaking foreign tongue and stuffing my face with dishes I’ve never heard of. I’m sipping on what feels like an “old man drink” having the time of my life. This is as close I’ll be to living Anthony Bourdain’s life as I’ll ever get. Mission: accomplished.

Daily Photo: Thursday, June 24th

2010-06-22T21:33:26Z

Broome by Joy

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