Medieval Spanish Chef

COMIDA, VIANDA WITH 15TH CENTURY HALF COOKED APPLE RECIPE

2013-05-20T08:00:00.000-07:00

Food in Kind Given in Payment to the Lord
Photo by: Lord-Williams

meal, food item. In the Middle Ages, vassals were the chief suppliers of food items for the lords’ meals as they paid their tithes in kind.

HALF COOKED APPLES IN ALMOND MILK ADAPTED FROM VILLENA’S MIRRAUSTE DE MANZANAS, VILLENA/CALERO. 2002, p. 110

Ingredients

4 apples[1]

juice from 1 lemon

½ c toasted almonds

1 slice of bread

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ c sugar

Garnish:

1 tsp sugar

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

Preparation

A perfect dish for Apple Lovers
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Choose sweet apples. Peel them and cut them in fourths. Remove the cores and seeds. Boil water, add lemon juice and when boiling add the apples. When almost soft, strain the apples, saving the broth. When the apples are cool cut into chunks.

Take toasted almonds and mash them in a mortar. Add 2 c broth from the apples. Add a slice of bread soaked in 1/3-1/2 c broth from the apples. Mash this in a mortar and then strain it through a woolen cloth. Season the liquid with cinnamon and sugar. Place this in a saucepan and bring to a boil. When boiling, remove it from the heat. Add the apples. After coating them with the sauce, place the mixture in bowls and garnish with sugar and cinnamon.

[1] This and the other ingredients for this dish, except cinnamon which was imported, are examples of foods paid in kind by vassals to the lord.

COMIDA, LA - WITH A 13TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR BREAD

2013-05-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

Dough Being Left to Rise
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Cat. menjar, the meal. It was served at 12 p.m in medieval Spain. The meal was synonymous with abundance in the Middle Ages. This could be a banquet in castles and palaces consisting of poultry, boar, trout, and wine. A good host was one who offered enough food to satisfy a lion.

A meal consisting of small quantities was synonymous with poverty, a despicable position in a class-orientated society. Consumption in convents varied. The nuns of the Berciano (León) ate botillo del Bierzo (“half a boot,” tripe filled with minced pork) while the monks of Sahagún were as opulent as the nuns of San Pedro de las Dueñas (Burgos) who ate bread as well as hearty dishes and drank wine, matured in kegs covered with mold and spider’s webs.

Pilgrims and peasants nibbled on bread, a little salt pork and sipped wine. Bread is synonymous with “meal”. Even in the 20^th C, a foreign bride in Spain, who forgot the bread, was asked by her Spanish father-in-law ‘where was the meal?’ She could not understand until her husband explained that the bread was missing. The noun comida and verb comer actually are derived from verb comedir, meaning to think, premeditate, to take measures for something or to be moderate and to contain oneself. [Alonso Luengo. 1994:39; Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:entire; and Lladonosa. 1976:158]

ADiffrent Shape of Dough Ready for the Oven
Photo by: Lord-Williams

BAKED BREAD ADAPTED FROM FADALAT [1] PAN COCIDO EN EL HORNO[1]

So Yummy!
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Ingredients

200 g hot water

400 g bread flour

1 tsp salt
1 pk dry yeast

50 g animal fat[2] or oil

Preparation

Lightly oil bread pans.

Heat the water. Pour it into a bowl. Originally, the recipe calls for soaking the flour. There is no need for that today. Add the rest of the ingredients except the fat or oil. Rub this on hands and knead. Add more water, a tablespoon at a time if necessary and continue kneading for 10 minutes until soft and elastic.

Divide the dough shape it into loaves as desired. Sprinkle with flour. Brush the loaves with olive oil. Cover with a towel and leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 40 minutes. When it has risen sufficiently, it will emit a noise when struck.

PREHEAT OVEN 450ºF/220ºC.

Immediately, bake 20-30 minutes until golden brown and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Clean the loaves and put them in a breadbasket for consumption.

[1] See blog titled aludir published September 15, 2011 for a different version of this recipe.

[2] As this is a Hispano-Arabic recipe, lard should not be used due to the prohibition of pork in the Muslim religion.

COMEDOR WITH HAKE OR DRIED FISH RECIPE

2013-05-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Dining Room
Photo from: CoasterMadMatt

dining hall 30 paces long and 10 wide in castles and palaces. These were multi-purpose rooms. After meals, the tables were removed for dancing and other activities. Convents and monasteries had refectories, permanent dining rooms, which the Archpriest of Hita calls handsome with tables set with tablecloths. Peasants normally did not have a dining room but ate in the kitchen. Noble children ate in the nursery. From the 15^th C on, small dinners could be served in other rooms of the castle or palace including a bedroom of the lords for privacy and comfort. [Ruíz/Brey. 1965:1248c:195]

HAKE OR DRIED FISH ADAPTED FROM VILLENA’S MERLUZA O PESCADO SECO. VILLENA/CALERO. 2002, p 109

Ingredients

1 lb hake or dry fish such as cod

1 tsp cider vinegar

1 tsp tarragon

¼ c olive oil for frying

½ c almonds

Frying Fish in Oil
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1 slice of day old bread

¼-1/3 c vinegar

½ tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp cumin

¼ tsp pepper

¼ sp tarragon

1 tbsp sugar or honey

Garnish

lemon wedges

parsley

Preparation

Select a dry hard white fish. Wash off salt and remove scales, If salted rinse three or four times and soak overnight.

Boil 3 cups water with 1 tsp vinegar and tarragon. Add the fish and simmer 8 minutes. Do not let the water boil or the meat will fall apart.

A Perfect Fish Day Dish
Photo by. Lord-Williams

Heat a frying pan. Add olive oil. When very hot add the fish. Fry it only a little because the cod fish and hake becomes hard with frying.

Toast almonds and grind them in a mortar with a slice of bread soaked in vinegar, to make the sauce sweet and sour. After straining this through a woolen cloth, season with spices. Do not use saffron. The cinnamon should dominate. Add sugar or honey. Heat the sauce. Put the fish on a platter and drizzle a little oil used for frying the fish over it. Then pour the sauce over the fish and serve.

COMBINAN WITH 15TH C RECIPE FOR MARZIPAN

2013-05-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

Marzipan Paste, a combination of chicken, almonds and sugar
Photo by: Lord-Williams

OCast conbrian, they combine. [Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:194]

MARZIPANS FOR THE SICK

WHO HAVE LOST THEIR

APPETITE, OF STIMULAT-ING SUBSTANCE ADAPTED FROM NOLA’S xxxxiiii-3 MAZAPANES PARA DOLIENTES QUE PIERDAN EL COMER, MUY BUENOS Y DE GRAN SUSTANCIA [1]

For one 8" wafer

Ready made Wafer 8" diameter
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Ingredients

½ chicken breast

almonds

white sugar

orange blossom water

1 round wafer 8" in diameter[2]

Preparation

Place the chicken breast in a pan of water. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil. Lower

heat and gently boil until cooked, about 20 minutes. When done reserve the broth.

Remove the meat from the bones and skin and weigh it. Add the same amount of peeled almonds. Grind the almonds and then combine the almonds with the meat. Then grind again combining this with the same amount of powdered sugar.

Marzipan Fresh from the Oven
With Broth Drink for the Ailing
Photo by: Lord-Williams

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350ºF/175ºC

Knead the mixture like dough. Roll the it out into a circle or whatever shape the wafer is and place it on a wafer to make marzipan. Make the edges of the paste a little higher than the middle. Moisten the marzipan with orange blossom water. Sprinkle ground, sifted powdered sugar over them.

Place parchment paper on a cookie sheet and put the marzipan on this and bake 10-12 minutes until edges are slightly browned. Remove from oven and let cool. Remove the marzipan from the parchment paper taking care that it does not break.

Give this to the sick as this is a very singular dish and of great help for the sick who have lost their appetite because a little of this has more sustenance than any other food item; particularly if the broth is drunk the benefits are invaluable.

[1] See blog titled alticas published September 13, 2011 for a different interpretation of this recipe.

[2]As making these is an art for which the Medieval Spanish Chef does not have the proper machinery, it was bought ready made at the local supermarket where 2 doz are sold for less than two Euros.

COLOR WITH A PURELY WHITE MANGE RECIPE

2013-05-10T08:00:00.000-07:00

Saffron Added to Make A Golden Dish
Photo by: Lord-Williams

color. From Roman times through the medieval period colored foods were a delight at the dinner table. White was the most valued color. Blancmange (manjar blanco) was the classic of medieval times. Apicius colors dishes white with white sauce (salsa blanca). The Forme of Cury uses amylum. White vinegar or old verjuice also could be used for this purpose. The Anon Al-Andalus recommends tafaya, a pottage, whitened with almond milk. In England, a white porray or leek pottage was a popular Lentan dish thickened with almond milk. White honey, egg whites, milk, cheese, wine, white flour (sifted several times with no bleach), white bread and white sugar were used as well.

Chopped Parsley with Water makes a Dish Green
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Anón Al-Andalus is filled with recipes calling for saffron and/or egg yolks to color food yellow or gold, the noblest color, such as the banquet Dishes of Mukhallal, Sweetened Mukhallal and Bilâja. Madder could be used instead of saffron to color Zulabiyya. To color the same dish dark red, brazilwood or gum lac is suggested. The Forme of Cury uses sandalwood, Mawmenee red, crushed red roses and red wine for Saracen Sauce and other dishes. Anón Al-Andalus gives a recipe for sandalwood syrup, a sandalwood electuary and a pomegranate syrup for red dishes. Jews boiled eggs in water with onion skins, the red root of alkanet, borage, or crushed red roses to color the shells red. Galingal, and currants were used also to color food red.

Green fennel juice or fox grape juice was recommended during this period to color food green. Spinach, mallows, sorrel, and cilantro too were used for this purpose. Forme of Cury and Nola use parsley while Sent Soví produces a green sauce with mint. The English green porray consists of vegetables, parsley and other herbs.

Shredding Chicken Breast in Rosewater
Photo by: Lord-Williams

To color food blue, mulberry extract is recommended. Turnsole also produces blue. Ginger was used to make food light brown while cinnamon and cumin colored it dark brown. Blood was used boiled and fried to turn food brown or black. In short medieval foods were a rainbow of colors. Today, this is synonymous with nutrition unless M/M’s are poured on a plate. [Anón/Grewe. 1982:CLXVI:179-180; Anón/Huici.1966:14:21-22:16:23:68:49-50 etc; Apicius/Flower. 1958:I:3(a):123:VI:4-5:163-164:VI:9:165; Black. Food. 1985:13; Curye. 1985: 16:86:22:102:68: 113 etc; Gitlitz. 1999:149-150:197; and Nola. 1989:xiii-3:xiiii-2:liiii-1 etc]

HOW TO MAKE SHREDDED BANCMANGE ADAPTED FROM SENT SOVÍ #L,
QUI PARLA CON SA DEU FFER MAYAR BLANCH DEFFILAT[1], pp 94-95

For 6 persons

Ingredients

1 chicken breast

1 onion

1 c rosewater

1 l almond milk

200 gr rice flour

25 gr sugar

Blancmanage with Rosewater
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Preparation

Scorch and clean the chicken breast well. Boil it in 3 l water with the onion. When cooked, take the breast out of the broth and let it cool. Remove skin and bones. Shred the meat and put it in a deep bowl with the rosewater.

Boil the broth until reduced to approximately 1 l (if there is a lot of grease, skim some off), add almond milk and gently boil it. Stir it with a wooden spoon while adding the flour; keep stiring while it thickens. Add the chicken with the rosewater and sugar and let it cook 8-10 minutes more, stirring constntly. If a more liquid consistency is desired, add more broth. Serve in soup bowls. If more sweetness is desired aprinkle sugar on top. If more aroma is desired add more rosewater.

[1] Calero, an editor of Villena’s Arte Cisoria, maintains that it originated in Provence.

The name is adapted into English and Spanish from French meaning "white

eating." Hiatt believes the recipes in Form of Curye are similar to

Apicius’ recipe "Cibarium/Album", an almond based sweet sauce. Although

the basic ingredients, almond milk, rice and sugar, came to Europe

through the Arabs, Perry suspects that only the name, "Harisa de Arroz"

(Rice Harisa) can be attributed to the Arabs. Hispano-Arab recipes show

no record of blancmange. The first is in the Catalan text Sent Soví from

the 14^th Century. For other blancmange recipes published by the Medieval Spanish Chef see blogs titled: Chaucer for the English version published December 17, 2012; cetería, for another Sent Soví version published November 26, 2012; cangrejo del rio with Sent Sovís shellfish version publised 19 July 2012; beca for Nola’s 15th Century Caltalan fish version. It is a sure winner on dinner tables. This version is unique for the rosewater, which makes it exquisite.

COLODRA

2013-05-08T08:00:00.000-07:00

Wooden Bucket? Maybe..... IMG_2439
Photo from: ForestPath

1. a wooden tub used between the 13^th-15^th C for milking goats, sheep and cows. 2. A wooden receptacle in which wine is measured. 3. a wooden vessel with a handle for drinking. 4. horn with a cork covering the bottom used as a tumbler. [Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:34:ftn 73:42]

COLOCASIA WITH 13TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR LENTILS IN HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

2013-05-06T06:00:00.000-07:00

Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott
Photo from: adaduitokla

Gr. kolocasia, L. Colocasia antiquorum or Colocasia esculenta Eng. taro or colocaia taro, arrow root, elephant ear. It is believed to be a native of India, where it was cultivated some 7,000- 10,000 years ago. It was of the earliest cultivated plants. It spread through the south Pacific and the Mediterranean, especially Egypt and Africa. Arabs brought it to Spain in 714 with sugar cane. The plant needs abundant water and takes from 7 to 18 months to grow depending on soil conditions. It grows only in humid tropics, in wetlands or irrigated areas. The leaves and tubers, which look like potatoes, are eaten. Tubers are baked, roasted or boiled. They are rich in vitamins and starch. Arabs added taro to lentils. They fried or boiled them to make a broth served with meat. One recipe calls for them being served with meat and yogurt. Taro can be made into a pudding. Ibn Razīn provides a variation of lentils with taro. It has been a common staple in numerous countries as the root contains easily digestible starch like the potatoIt should be eaten immediately once cut. It should not be eaten raw for the toxic content. After peeling, it is sliced and boiled or baked under ashes or an oven. As the potato, it can be served with a variety of foods. [Kiple. 2000:I:218-229; II:1866; Ibn Razīn/Granja. 1960:377:29; and Perry. “Kitāb.” 2001:474:475]

Boiled Lentil Mixture
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Apicius mentions several methods for preparing taro, including boiling it, preparaing it with sauces, and cooking it with meat or fowl. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the use of taro dwindled in Europe. This was largely due to the decline of trade and commerce with Egypt, previously controlled by Rome. Taro has remained popular in the Canary Islands.

LENTILS IN 13^TH CENTURY HOLLANDAISE SAUCE ADAPTED FROM FADALAT #377 GUISO DE LENTEJAS, p 29

Ingredients

13th Century Hollandaise Sauce with Saffron
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1 c lentils

1 tbsp virgin olive oil

1 tsp white pepper

1 tbsp cilantro

1 onion chopped or chopped taro boiled or with starch dissolved over low heat

salt to taste

For the Sauce[1]:

1 tsp mashed and dissolved saffron

1 tbsp vinegar

3 eggs

½ c virgin olive oil

Preparation

Lentils in Hollandaise Sauce
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Wash lentils. Soak them in water overnight. Strain off water and rinse. Put them in a pressure cooker half full with boiling water, 1 tbsp olive oil, ½ tsp pepper, cilantro and onion or taro.[2] Lower heat a simmer about 5 minutes until done.

For the sauce:

Put all the ingredients except the olive oil in a food blender. Beat in all the ingredients on high for a minute. Continue beating and add olive oil one drop at a time as if making mayonnaise. When all is blended, heat water in the bottom of a double boiler. Add the sauce to the top part and heat for a minute or two, stirring constantly. Pour over the lentils, mix well and serve immediately.

[1] It is most curious to note that these are the same ingredients as those for Hollandaise sauce using olive oil instead of butter and vinegar instead of lemon. Wikipedia states that the sauce first appears in a Dutch cookbook dating from 1593! Ibn Razin beat the Dutch to it!

[2] Taro could not be found. As the lentils are from a Hispano-Muslim recipe, neither pork nor new world products could be admitted. It seems like the scribe is leaving it up to the imagination of the cook to liven up the dish unless taro has the finishing touch which is missing if not found.

COLMENA WITH HISPANO MUSLIM PANCAKE RECIPE

2013-05-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

Beehive
Photo from: Paul Scicluna

beehive. As today, in the Middle Ages beehives generally are found in valleys or on mountain slopes facing south to protect them from the north winds. They are near streams for the necessity of water. Normally, bees make hives in tree trunks, especially in oak trees. Beekeeping was very serious business in practically all villages before sugar became readily available and honey was thought to be good medicine. See miel. [Silva. 1994:173]

RECIPE FOR HONEYCOMBED PANCAKES[1] ADAPTED FROM ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #417. RECETA DE LA MUŠAHADA,[2] QUE ES HORADADA,[3] p 229-230

Ingredients

2 c flour

1 pk dry yeast

½ tsp salt

Pancake Batter
Photo by: Lord-Williams

2 eggs (optional)[4]
1 c water

4 tbsp butter or 1 tbsp butter and 3 tbsp olive oil

Garnish:

1 tbsp melted butter

½ c honey or honeycomb

powdered sugar

Preparation

The author begins by saying: ‘This is the most sophisticated dish. It is the lightest and most easily digested. It is the healthiest because of the yeast in it and because it is soft.’

Beats Pillburys'
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Mix flour, yeast and salt. Add eggs if used and water little by little. If eggs are not used, add more water. Mix until the batter it is diluted but thick. Heat a frying pan. Add butter and/or olive oil. Pour the batter into a frying pan over very low heat. Extend the batter over the entire circumference of the pan. Cover and leave for a few minutes.

Turn and brown the other side. Place it on a serving platter.

Grease the pan again and make pancakes until the batter is used up.

Melt 1 tbsp butter. Add clarified honey. When warm this pour over the pancakes on a serving dish. Let sit until the perforations in the pancakes absorb the butter and honey. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve.

[1] This is the second pancake recipe published by the Medieval Spanish Chef. See blog titled cofina published April 17, 2013 for the 14th Century Catalan version.

[2] Panel.

[3] Perforated.

[4] The Medieval Spanish Chef’s addition. If a medieval Christian were to prepare this recipe during Lent or on any other religious fast day eggs and butter would be excluded. Olive oil would be used instead of butter.

COLACIÓN(ES) WITH CHRISTMAS EVE MENU

2013-05-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

Crab Croquettes
Photo by: Lord-Williams

sweetmeats; light meal. Christmas eve supper is called the colación de Navidad, which is an exaggeration as normally it means abundance. [Ares. Gastronomía. 2000:55; and Pacho. “Cocina.” 1994:151]

Traditionally, as per Miguel Lucas Iranzo’s 15th C chronicle, entire households paraded to midnight mass at the local church accompanied by the lord's choir and band. After mass, peasants rejoiced in the streets and Iranzo provided a large spread of food for the inhabitants living within his domains.

The Yule tide tradition as celebrated in Aragon. The huge log was left to burn throughout the night. The ashes were saved to fertilize the fields and ward off plague for both humans and animals. The home was not decorated, nor were presents exchanged. That happened with the New Year. There were no manger scenes displayed in Spanish homes until the 18^th century.

Blancmanage s a First Course
Photo by: Lord-Williams

With the band and a choir, the noble lord, his family and cortesians paraded back from church to the lord's home singing and dancing through the village streets. They enter the castle or palace for a midnight meal, which could continue until the wee hours of the morning with entertainment.

The menu for A Christmas Eve colación could include:

Various cold cuts such as sausages and Serrano ham

Varied nuts such as acorns, chestnuts, almonds, walnuts and pinenuts
Dried fruit such as raisins and dates

Crab croquettes see cangrejo del mar published July 18, 2013

Boiled and fried mall birds, see calandria published June 26, 2012

Fried cracklings see chicharron published December 18, 2012

Crepes
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Meat soup with cabbage, see col blog published April 26, 2013
Shredded blancmange see cetrería published November 11, 2012

Roast lamb breast or flank, see cideruedas published January 18, 2013.

Eggplants stuffed with cheese see cocina de esado published April 8, 2013

Artichokes filled with foie gras au gratin see aguasal published November 6, 2010

Apple and date mouse see abeja published October 11, 2010

Crepes see cofina published April 17, 2013

COL FORRAJERA WITH 15TH CENTURY KALE LEAF RECIPE

2013-04-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Kale
Photo by: Lord Willliams

berzas, vulg. repollo de asa de cántaro, asa de cántaro (stone handle), OCast breças, L. Brassica oleracea (Viridis and Acephala Groups), Ar. malfouf, ME cool (cabbage or kale?), Eng. UK: kale, fodder kale, cow cabbage, collards, USA: tall kale, tree kale, tree cabbage. Generally when referring to cabbage, it is the white loose-headed cabbage from southern Europe or the tight headed from the north. Cookbooks calling for asa de cántaro refer to cabbage from southern Europe. It is nicked named asa de cántero or “stone handle,” in Spanish for the durability and handle shaped leaves. It grows in humid soil where it is planted deep into the ground. Laguna warned that the vineyard and cabbage hated each other to the point that the vines would not grow if cabbage was planted near them.

During the Middle Ages, it was consumed raw, boiled and with fish or meat as today. Spaniards, from northern regions, eat it with botillo del bierzo (cabbage boiled in an animal’s stomach) or serve it with codfish in Leon. In Galicia, it is boiled in water for three hours in a tightly closed pot or presser cooker with lard from hens and pork, half of a hen, bones and fava beans. It is served in soup bowls.

Since Roman times cow cabbage has been considered the poor man’s food but some recipe books insinuate that Europeans did have some “poor” kings and aristocrats. For the poor and rich eating cabbage was considered to bring good luck in medieval times. The culinary value has been less appreciated then the medical benefits because over cooked cabbage smells awful. [Ares. “Comidas.” 1994:95:97-98:100; ES: Benavides–Barajas. “Cocina.” Sep 29, 01; Curye. 1985:181; ES: Herbs. Oct 8, 02; and ES: Murrah, Nov 12, 02; Fernández Muníz. 1994:188; Pacho. “Cocina.” 1994:155; Villar. 1994:182; and Villena/Calero. 2002:23a]

KALE LEAF RECIPE ADAPTED FROM NOLA xli-3 PENCAS BE BERZAS

A favorite for a winter's day
Photo: Lord-Williams

Ingredients

4 qt broth

1 kale or cow cabbage

100 gr fatty bacon finely sliced

2 onions quartered

Preparation

Wash kale and quarter the leaves. Add them to a pot. Melt the bacon and pour it into the pot. Add the onions. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and boil gently 10 minutes. When the leaves start to fall apart turn them with a wooden spoon. Do not overcook. Remove from heat and let rest before serving.

To prevent bad odors it is said that one should not over cook. The Spanish Medieval Chef adds a tablespoon of vinegar when adding the cabbage.

COL (stem), WITH CREAMED CABBAGE AND MEAT

2013-04-26T08:00:00.000-07:00

Cabbage
Photo by: Lord-Williams

L. Brassica, Fr. caboche (head), ME coboches, cobaches, colewort, sea colewort, cool (cabbage or kale) Eng. cabbage. The cole family has innumerous species, including cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, kale and broccoli. There is doubt as to whether this plant is a native of Europe or of China. The first record of it is by Confucius who mentioned its existence in China (497 B.C.). Those believing that it originated in northern Europe think that the Celts spread it east and south to the Mediterranean. Some say the Romans took it to England.

Medieval cabbage was more leafy than today. In England, normally it was boiled in broth with onions and leeks for pottages and stews. Arabs brought cabbage recipes to Spain including stuffed and stewed. It was added to pottages and almond soup and served as salads. Cole slaw in England was made with garum, oil, vinegar, sugar and onion and seasoned with cumin, caraway and coriander. Cabbage salads in Asturias are a mixture of apples, bacon and cabbage.

Forme of Curye shows cabbages were often eaten in English households. Cabbage was a favorite of Chaucer’s Summoner with other garden vegetables. In the 15^th C Lord Grey served cabbage, at a banquet in a pottage with parsnips, turnips and pears. Other English recipes combined broad beans or oatmeal with cabbage. Curye on Inglysch provides a recipe pickling cabbage.

Cabbage has been eaten throughout Spain. In León and Asturias it has been basic in their cuisine from time immemorial. Andrés Laguna, 15^th C. Segovian physician, stated that in Germany and part of Bavaria it was marinated to preserve it for a year. Andalusians, for the same reasons, kept their cabbage in a pickle sauce. It has been stated that people of the Middle Ages “pickled anything that does not move.”

Chopping and Cooking Cabbage
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Cato, the Elder (234-149 BC), stated: "that cabbage treats ulcers on the breast, supporating wounds, and cancers." Today, it is known to be a good substance against cancer. Egyptians started drinking the seeds to combat intestinal worms. If eaten at the end of the meal, it would stop all the damage the wine has done and inebriation. Prior to eating, Romans ate cabbage soaked in vinegar not only as food but also to counter alcohol excess. Dioscorides said that lightly cooked cabbage softened the stomach. In the 12^th C, Avenzoar cautioned that it was the worst vegetable in existence for it generates epilepsy, leprosy, scabbies, black bile and hypnotic effects. He did allow that eaten boiled or raw, it cleared the voice and helped prevent snoring. To reduce tumors, he prescribed the application of cabbage in plaster form. Today, the leaves externally applied to ulcerations relieve them.

It has been found that cabbage has anti-mutagenic activity (preventing mutations) but scientists have yet to prove that there is any antitumor action when applied topically. A honey and cabbage root mixture was administered to patients with whooping cough. As the Dutch navy lived on sauerkraut, it was thought they used it to prevent scurvy. Today, it is known that it contains a large quantity of Vitamin C. A couple of spoonfuls a day mixed with sugar and honey helps fight bronchial colds. See col forrajera and cuello. [Curye. 1985:175:181; ES: Herbs. Oct 8, 02; Groundes-Peace. 1971:17; Ibn Zuhr/García Sánchez. 1992:84; and Sass. 1975:22]

CREAMED CABBAGE AND MEAT STUFFING ADAPTED FROM HUICI'S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #278. RELLENO DE CARNE CON REPOLLO, pp 160-161

For 12 persons

Ingredients

Mashing Strained Cabbage in a Mortar
Photo by: Lord-Williams

½ lb meat diced

¼ lb old cheese diced

1 onion chopped with 1 tbsp cilantro

1 heads of cabbage

1 tsp murri

1 tbsp vinegar

½ tsp pepper

1 tsp caraway

dough

2 eggs

For the dough:

¾ c flour

½ pk dry yeast

1/8 tsp salt

¼ c milk

½ tbsp melted butter

Garnish:

shredded cheese

A Delicious Dish!
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Bring meat, cheese, onion and cabbage to a boil. Remove from heat. Strain off broth and reserve. Pound all in a wooden mortar and set aside.

For the dough:

Combine flour, yeast and salt. Make a hole in the middle and add milk and butter. Knead for 10 minutes by hand. When smooth roll it into a ball. Place in a bowl coated with olive oil and cover with a cloth. Leave for 45 minutes or until it rises to almost double in size.

Bring the broth to a boil. Tear off pieces of dough and add them to the broth. Wisk the mixture until blended. Gently simmer 20 minutes to cook out the starchy flavor.

Return the cabbage mixture to pot and boil again. Add murri, vinegar, pepper

and caraway. Reduce heat to stimmer. When the broth stops boiling, stir in beaten eggs. Continue stirring until the desired thickness is reached.

Place the mixture in an ovenproof dish and grill to melt and toast the cheese and serve.

This is a dish recommended for cabbage lovers and for those who normally dislike it as they will lick the plate clean!

COHOMBRO, ALFICOZ PICKLED OR RAW SERPENT MELONS

2013-04-24T08:00:00.000-07:00

Snake Cucumber?
Photo from: Tobyotter

OCast. alficoç, alficos, HispAr al’fiqqüs, alfqqús (fr. Rabbanical Aramaic, pikkūsā), L. Cucumis flexuosum, Eng. serpent melon, or snake cucumber. Frequently, this is confused with the cucumber as it is commonly called “cucumber” instead of by its proper name. The stems are very long with rounded leaves. It bares small pale yellow flowers. The fruit is elongated, thin and twisted. It is eaten pickled or raw. It grows in warm areas such as Valencia and Murcia. It is thought to be the ‘Hairy Cucumber’, Cucumis chate, a wild melon having cool and sweet flavor similar to the watermelon mentioned in the Bible (Isaiah i.8). Villena instructs that they should be cut crosswise in large slices. The seeds are planted in spring and lie so many members of the melon family, the fruit is available in autumn. See pepino. [Alonso, Martín I:A:243; Covarrubias 1998:334; ES: Grieve. “Melon, Serpeant.” Sep 19, 04; ES: “Pepino.” Apr 13, 04; Villena/Brown. 1984:160; Villena/Calero. 2002:42b; and Villena/Saínz. 1969:131]

Melon
Photo from: Chris Jenkins

Although Villena instructs how to cut serpent melons, he provides no recipe for eating them. Currently in Spain, they are not available, it is not known if this is is due to the growing season or the lack of public demand. Should serpent melons be found, they can be pickled using the same recipes that are for cucumber. Also, today, when available, mothers keep the melons in the refrigerator for teenage nibblers instead of potato chips. As the skin is soft, it does not have to be peeled.

COGUJADA A SMALL BIRD

2013-04-22T02:40:00.000-07:00

Crested Lark
Photo from: Sergey Yeliseev

OCast copada, L. Galerida cristata, Eng crested lark. This small bird live on grassy plains, in semi-desert areas and cultivated lands. This bird is found all over Spain, but especially in Catalonia, Estremadura and Andalusia. In England, it is rare today put can be found in the south and in Wales. Although some are migratory, most are residents. There are some 15-20 subspecies. Generally, the crested lark weighs 0.8 oz (23g,); the body is about 5 ½” (14-15 cm) long while the wing span is about 11” (28-31 cm). Cristata (crested), European birds, are olive-brown or gray-brown and darker on top. The birds in Spain are cinnamon colored with reddish tinges. The most conspicuous features are the crest on the head, its unique call, “wee-wee-woo” with repetitive trills and its manner of rushing and running. Generally, it resides close to villages and cities. It builds its nest on the ground. In early winter, the male begins to defend its territory by singing a musical and chatty song that includes mimicking other birds in the area. He does this in flight, hovering over “his domain.” Villena listed it is as a commonly consumed bird during his time in Spain. It is not sold in markets but must be hunted. Like quail and other small birds, it could be fried or roasted. It was a popular food served during banquets with other small birds. [ES:“Crested.” Apr 1, 04; ES: Crested Lark. Oct 12, 03; Jutglar. 1999:388-389; and Villena/Calero. 2002:22b; Villena/Saínz. 1969:134; and Villena/Navarro. 1879:263]

COGOLLITO WITH 13TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR HEARTS OF LETTUCE

2013-04-19T08:00:00.000-07:00

A Heart of Lettuce Cut in Half
Photo by: Lord-Williams

cogollo, heart of lettuce or cabbage. [Benavides-Barajas. Alhambra. 1999:146]

HEARTS OF LETTUCE ADAPTED FROM ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #460. TERCIADO[1] DE CABEZAS DE LECHUGA, p 252

For 4-6 persons

Ingredients

1 lb lamb diced

salt to taste

1 small onion

½ tsp pepper

1 tsp coriander seed

½ tsp whole cloves

2 tsp mashed saffron

1 tbsp olive oil

3 hearts of lettuce

1 tbsp vinegar

4 eggs beaten

1 tsp spikenard

Hearts of Lettuce with Lamb
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Preparation

Chop the bone with the meat on it and put it in a pot with salt, a piece of onion, pepper, coriander seed, clove, half the saffron and oil. Cover the ingredients with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and gently boil for 20 minutes.

Cut hearts of lettuce in half. Wash well. After the meat has cooked for 10 minutes add the lettuce and continue boiling gently.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350ºF/170ºC

When the lettuce is done mix the eggs with vinegar, the remaining saffron and spikenard pour them over the lamb and lettuce. Cook this in the oven[2] until the egg has solidified.

[1] Terciado means cut into thirds. The recipe does not even call for cutting the hearts of lettuce. The Medieval Spanish Chef recommends cutting them in half.

[2] The recipe calls for heating the dish on the embers but as fireplaces are not common, an oven was used.

COFINA WITH A 14TH C CREPES RECIPE TOPS ON THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF'S LIST

2013-04-17T08:00:00.000-07:00

Chef-Hat_Cartoon
Photo from: ecartoongrafix

dim of cofia, cap, cloth wrapped around the cook’s head to cover up all the hairs on his head in 15^th C. Spain. It was the primitive stage of the toque (white chef’s hat). See cocinero. [Alonso Luengo. 1994:41; and Diccionario. 1958:I:569]

A 14th Century Twist to Crespes
with Stiff Egg Whites
Photo by: Lord-Williams

BATTER FOR CREPES ADAPTED FROM SENT SOVÍ CLXI QUI PARLA CON SE DEUEN FFER CRESPES DE PASTA E D'OUS, p 175-176

Ingredients

2 c flour

2 eggs with yolks and white separated

4 whole eggs

½ tsp salt

1 c milk perfumed with zest from ¼ lemon

lard to grease the frying pan or a rag dipped in olive oil for the same (the Spanish Medieval Chef uses butter which was not readily available in Spain in the Middle Ages)

Garnish

Powdered sugar

Preparation

A Devine Recipe
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Put the flour in a bowl. Add 2 eggs yolks and 4 whole egg and salt. Beat the mixture. Add cold milk little by little taking care hat no lumps form.

Beat the two leftover egg whites until stiff. When the batter is smooth, fold the egg whites into the mixture until smooth.

Warm a frying pan and add grease or oil. When warm, remove the pan from heat and pour in a thin layer of batter. Return the pan to the heat. When the batter begins to shrink, turn it over with a spatula. The result is a thin flat crêpe.

Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

This dish is presented at the end of the meal and like cheese, it is held in esteem to such a point that The Medieval Spanish Chef rates this out ten out number 10!

COCLEARE WITH 15th SALMON CASSEROLE RECIPE

2013-04-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Spoons

(handcarved boxwood)

Photo by longword

culiares (OCast), Cast cuchara, L cochler, Eng teaspoon. 1. Originally this was a Roman spoon with a needle tight grip used to remove snails and mollusks from their shells, which was later substituted with a fork. See cuchara and trulione. [Sánchez-Albornoz. 2000:154:190:191]

SALMON CASSEROLE ADAPTED FROM NOLA lvii-3 CAZUELA DE SALMON BY LADY BRIGHID NI CHIARAIN

Salmon with Teaspoons of Flavors Photo by: Lord-Williams

Ingredients
1 lb salmon fillet

1/4 tsp ground galingale[1]

1/8 tsp ground ginger

1/8 tsp peppercorns and a pinch of saffron, ground together

salt to taste

juice from 1 orange (approx. 1/2 cup)

1 tbsp pine nuts

1 tbsp blanched slivered almonds

2 tbsp raisins

1/2 tsp dried marjoram

2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped

Preparation

PREHEAT THE OVEN TO 350º F/170º C

Place the salmon in a deep casserole dish. Sprinkle with the ground spices and the salt. Add orange juice to the casserole. Bake, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Add the chopped herbs, nuts and raisins, and baste with the orange juice. Bake 10 more minutes, or until the salmon flakes easily at its thickest part.

[1] If galingale cannot be found, increase the amount of ginger.

COCINERO WITH 4TH C MUSHROOM RECIPE

2013-04-12T08:00:00.000-07:00

Cleaning Mushrooms
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Norm-Fr coquus, coquinarius, cook. Until the 14 C. in Spain and England, cooks were experts as pork butchers and in roasting meats. They were not permanent members on the staff of nobility. Nobles kept different cooks at different estates until the commencement of Humanism at the end of the 14 C. Prior to that, Then the cook became the most valued member of the staff as Christians demanded more refined food, cooks became permanent and more professional. They traveled with the household when it moved from one estate to another for without a satisfied stomach no other paraphernalia of the courtly abode could please the lord. Still there were complaints about the food served on certain estates of Henry VI of England, who continued to keep different cooks at his various estates during the second quarter of the 15^th century.

There were exceptions, however, such as Richard II of England’s cooks who were famous for their gourmet cuisine at the end of the 14^th century. Generally, cooks and sauce-makers (see salseros) were paid with money or in kind. Fabrics and jewels were given to them in appreciation for their services.

Frying Mushrooms and Wild Parsley
Photo by: Lord Williams

The Arabs were the first to have culinary manuscripts. Those and others later had little circulation prior to the invention of the printing press in second half of the 15^th C. Too most cooks were illiterate. In Spain and England, their performance came to be an intellectual exercise based on intuitiveness and experience. Further, the physical demands on cooks cannot be overlooked during this period as he also had to butcher animals almost every day due to lack of refrigeration. This in itself eliminated the possibility of women holding this position. In 15^th C. Spain, he wore a large white apron and covered his head to prevent any hairs from showing. See cofiina and sobrecoh. [Alonso Luengo. 1994:41; Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:58-59; Henisch. 1976:68-70:94-95; Serrano. 2008:370, and Warner. 1791:xii:xvii]

MUSHROOMS ANOTHER METHODS ADAPTED FROM APICIUS/FLOWER, VII:XV:6: BOLETOS ALITER pp174-175

Ingredients

Mushrooms with a Drizzle of Honey
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1 lb mushrooms[1]

1 handful lovage[2]

2 tbsp oil

½ tsp pepper

1 tbsp garum[3]

1 drizzle of honey

Preparation

Wash and scrape mushrooms until clean. Slice them vertically. Wash the lovage and chop the leaves.

Warm a frying pan. Add olive oil. When hot, add the remaining ingredients, except the honey, and sauté until the mushrooms are done. Drizzle with honey and serve immediately.

[1] The recipe calls for stems but the entire mushroom was used.

[2] Lovage is also called mountain celery or wild parsley. Common parsley was used as lovage could not be found.

[3] See blog titled almorí published Aug 26, 11 for recipe.

COCINAR WITH NOLA'S IMPERIAL PUDDING

2013-04-10T08:00:00.000-07:00

Grinding Rice into Flour for Pudding
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Ar. ‘arraqa, Eng. to cook. In Arabic it literally means ‘to cause to sweat, ‘or to stew.’ [ES: Bush. Jul 1, 04; and Perry. “Mistakes.” 2001:21]

AN IMPERIAL PUDDING ADAPTED FROM NOLA #xiiii-4 MANJAR IMPERIAL

For 6 persons

Ingredients

1 qt milk

½ lb ground and sifted rice

½ lb sugar

½ doz egg yolks

Mixing Milk and Rice Flour with Egg Yolks
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Garnish:

1 tbsp sugar

1 tsp freshly ground cinnamon

Preparation

Heat the milk and rice in a saucepan. Stir constantly in one direction until the rice is dissolved. Add ½ lb sugar and continue cooking on the coals, away from the flames to prevent the smoke from reaching it. When it begins to thicken, remove from heat.

Beat the egg yolks well. Add 1 tbsp of the milk mixture at a time blending the mixture with the eggs, stirring constantly in one direction. Return the pan to the heat to finish thickening. When done remove it from the heat and let sit 10 minutes.

Imperial Pudding with a Hint of Color
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Garnish with sugar and cinnamon and serve immediately. Decorate with colorful pieces of fruit if available. If preparing ahead of time reheat in a double boiler.

COCINA DE ESTADO WITH 13TH CENTURY EGGPLANT RECIPE

2013-04-08T08:00:00.000-07:00

A Medieval Kitchen, a Doll House,
reproduction of that in Casa de Tiros,
ancestral home of the Empress Eugenio Montijo in Granada;
designed, painted and furnished by Medieval Spanish Chef
Photo by: Lord.Williams

palace kitchen in which food was prepared for high officers of the king’s staff and servants. [Nola/Pérez.1994:192]

EGGPLANTS STUFFED WITH CHEESE ADAPTED FROM HUIC’S TRANSLATION OF AL-ANDALUS, #339 HECHURA DE RELLENO CON BERENJENAS Y QUESO, p 188

Ingredients

For 4 persons

2 eggplants

¼ c grated cheese

¼ c ground almonds

Stuffed Eggplant fit for All Nobles
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1 egg slightly beaten

1 tbsp olive oil

Preparation

Boil eggplants in water until cooked, about 7-15 minutes.

PREHEAT OVEN TO BROIL

Cut eggplants in half lengthwise and scoop out the pulp. Mix this with cheese, almonds and eggs. Stuff the eggplant skins with this.

Grease a baking dish olive oil. Add stuffed eggplants. Place in oven about 4-5 minutes until the cheese melts and the crust browns.

COCINA DE BOCA WITH A ROYAL HISPANO-MUSLIM DESSERT

2013-04-05T08:00:00.000-07:00

Dissolving Camphor in Rosewater
Photo by: Lord-Williams

royal kitchen. It was used only for preparing the meals of the king and royalty. Ruperto Nola began working as an assistant in the Royal Kitchen in Naples and became the Head Chef for Ferdinand I of Naples, bastard son of Alfonso V of Aragon. His manuscript of recipes for royalty survives along with the 14th century manuscript Sent Soví, with Catalan recipes and two Al-Andalus manuscripts both from the 13th Century From the royal kitchens came the royal dishes which still exist today. [Nola/Pérez.1994:192]

ROYAL RAFÎS ADAPTED FROM ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #420. RAFĪS REGIO, p 231-232

Ingredients

½ lb almonds

½ lb wheat flour

4 eggs

Pounding Flat Cakes
Photo by: Lord-Williams

¼ tsp camphor

1 c rosewater

1/8-1/4 c butter for frying

¼- ½ c almond oil or melted and clarified butter

1 c almond oil, melted butter or rose syrup

For the rose syrup:

2 c rose petals

1 c distilled water

1 c castor sugar

juice from one lemon

Preparation

Mince almonds in a food processor to make a paste. Add flour and knead. Add slightly beaten eggs. Sprinkle with rosewater in which camphor has been dissolved and enough almond oil or butter to make cakes. (Note: as camphor is an ingredient for moth balls (as it does kill months, not people) very little should be added to enhance the aroma. For further information see blog titled alcanfor published April 12, 2010)

When well kneaded, make thin flat cakes. Heat a large clay or stainless steel frying pan. Add 1/8-1/4 c butter to grease the bottom of the pan. Fry the cakes until they bind like pancakes. Do not over cook.

Its not Red Winebut Rose Petal Syrup!
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Pound them with sweet almond oil or fresh, melted and clarified butter.[1] Make a dome shaped loaf like a sugar loaf and put it in a large dish.

When ready to serve pour almond oil, fresh melted, clarified butter or rose syrup over it.

Rose Syrup:

Place all ingredients in a heavy pot. Simmer for 1 hour. Strain and discard the petals. Heat the syrup until the desired thickness is reached. Pour this over the almond loaf and serve.

[1] It is easier to put them through a meat grinder and add the liquid after that.

COCINA, EL ARTE DE WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY13TH CENTURY DISH OF LAMB AND CHEESE

2013-04-03T08:00:00.000-07:00

"The Extraordinary Dish" before Browning in the Oven
Photo by: Lord-Williams

OE curye, Eng the art of cooking which includes recipes. [Curye. 1985:18:183]

AN EXTRAORDINARY DISH ADAPTED FROM ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #64 RECETA EXTRAORDINARIA, p 47

Ingredients

1 lb lamb

3/8 c olive oil

salt to taste

1 small onion

1 tsp coriander

2 tsp chopped lavender

3 tsp mashed saffron

½ lb fresh cheese

½ tsp white pepper

½ tsp ground cloves

8 eggs

½ tsp cinnamon

Preparation

Lamb with a Deliciously "New" 13th Century Twist!
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Cut a leg of robust lamb into small pieces with the bone. Heat 1/4 c olive oil in a pot and add the meat, salt to taste, a small onion quartered, coriander and 1 tsp chopped lavender. Mash 1 tsp saffron, dissolve it in a little water and add it to the pot. Cook until half done.

The cheese should not be too soft or it will crumble. Slice it into pieces the palm of one’s hand. Mash 1 tsp on saffron in ½-1c water and pour it into a dish. Put the slices of cheese in the dish. Sprinkle them with ¼ tsp pepper and turn them over to color all sides. Sprinkle the other side with ¼ tsp pepper.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350º F/170º C

Place the cheese in the pot or oven-proof dish with the meat. Hide 4 egg yolks between the cheese and meat. Beat four eggs with 1 tsp saffron, 1 tsp lavender and cloves and pour this mixture over the meat and cheese. Drizzle the remaining oil over the top of the dish and heat the dish in the oven until the eggs solidify and the meat is completely cooked. Let cool for 1 hour before serving.

COCINA WITH 13th C HOME MADE NOODLES RECIPE

2013-04-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

Kneading Batter for Noodles
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1. kitchen, 2. cuisine. The cuisine of a territory in the Middle Ages was influenced by the weather. Scots ate oat bread as it is difficult to grow wheat there, while Castilians had wheat. Beside its own products, the cuisine was influenced by the territories bordering it. Navarra, for example, was heavily influenced by French, Catalan and Aragonese cooking and somewhat less by Al-Andalus and Castilla. It is interesting to note that out of the five spouses the kings and queen of Navarra between 1350-1600 three were French. One from Aragon and one from Castile. Foreign consorts of kings and queen have been known to bring their cooks with them when they married. Also foreign aristocrats traveling to abroad took their cooks with them as well, which influenced native cooks as they exchanged recipes. Pilgrims on the Way of St. James introduced dishes from their countries and visa versa. Due to the Roman invasions, Islamic occupation and Spanish domination in parts of what is Italy today, Iberian cuisine was the most sophisticated in Europe between the 13th and 15th centuries. [Serrano. 2008:365:368-369]

HOMEMADE NOODLES (WITH CHOPPED LAMB) ADAPTED FROM FADALAT #88 PREPARACIÓN Y GUISO DE LOS FIDEOS

Ingredients

Rolling out the Dough
Photo by: Lord-Willliams

1 lb semolina flour

sheep’s fat from the tail

salt to taste

1 onion chopped
1 lb lamb

1 tbsp virgin olive oil

½ tsp pepper

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

Garnish:

1 tsp ground cinnamon

freshly scraped ginger

Homemade Noodles with Lamb
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Preparation

Dip hands in fat vigorously knead one pound of semolina with water and salt. Place it in a covered bowl. Roll out the dough like a jelly roll slice it widthwise. Roll out the strips. Cut them and shape them like very thin wheat grains with the tips thinner than the center; when done place them in a basket. When all the dough is shaped, dry the noodles in the sun. Make more semolina dough and more batches of noodles until needed is made.

When ready to cook sauté chopped onion in olive oil until translucent. Select the best parts of lamb from the breast, loin, tail and other areas; cut them into medium size pieces. Clean them and put them in a big pan with plenty of water, salt, oil, pepper, cilantro and onion and heat. When cooked remove the meat from the pan.

Gently boil the noodles in the broth over low heat. When cooked, remove the noodles reserving the broth. In the meantime, fry the boiled meat in a pan with fresh or salted fat until browned. Place the noodles in a tureen and put the meat on top. Sprinkle cinnamon and ginger on top and serve.

If noodles with a robust chicken are preferred prepare as above.

COCIMIENTO WITH 13TH C ORANGE PASTE RECIPE

2013-03-29T08:00:00.000-07:00

Blood Oranges
Photo by: Lord-Williams

1. boiling in water, baking in the oven cooking. 2. boiling with herbs or other medical substances for therapeutic use. The 13^th C Anonymous Al-Andalus contains some 48 recipes for medicinal use. [Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:118]

ORANGE PASTE ADAPTED FROM ANÓN AL–ANDALUS #529. PASTA DE NARANJA, p 287

Ingredients

6 oz blood orange rind (about 6 oranges depending on size)

Boiling Zest in Honey
Photo by: Lord-Williams

12 oz honey boiled and skimmed

Preparation

Peel red oranges. Soak the rinds in water overnight. Cut them in the shape of fingers.[1]

Clarify the honey. Add the orange rind and boil, stirring constantly, until it becomes a paste. Take care not to burn it. Remove from heat and drop spoonfuls on wax paper. Shape them like nuts if possible. Serve these with meals to improve digestion, to dissolve the phlegm, to increase urination and to cure colds.[2] It is an admirable medicine.

Blood Orange Paste
Photo by: Lord-Williams

[1] As the zest is very acid thin stripes are recommended.

[2] Huici’s translation is ‘cold noses.’

COCIDO MARAGATO WITH MARAGATO CHICKPEA STEW RECIPE

2013-03-25T08:00:00.000-07:00

Kale or Cow Cabbage is prized in the Maragato Region
Photo by: Lord-Willliams

Maragato chickpea stew. It is the most traditional dish in the Maragato Region in León. It dates back to the pre-Roman period in Asturias and León and still is made from recipes carried down for hundreds of years.

Cocido maragato containing boiled game is the prototype and the most popular, varying little, although the meat is substantially increased for wedding and feast day cocidos. It is prepared during the hunting season from the Immaculate Conception (December 8^th) to January 6^th(King’s Day), and on raw, freezing winter days for this it is a heavy dish rich in fats and high calories.

Game and livestock are killed in the morning. The entails are extracted and preparation for consumption of the meat commences. Generally, cocido maragato contains pork including blood, shoulder meat, an ear, the snout, the belly, choizo, chicken, jerky and young bull meat. It does not include 10 different meats as some authors claim. Further, it does not include leeks or carrots as in Madrid but kale or cow cabbage (commonly called berza)[1] or a vegetable in season with fried garlic. Each ingredient is served separately on a platter, except the chickpeas which are served in another dish. In Castile, the broth from the cocido is served as a first course but the Maragatos say that if something is leftover be the broth. They, therefore, serve it after the solids are eaten. See cerrona, comida del pastor, garbanzos, larguero, puchero and ración. [Alonso, L.M. 1994: 197; Ares. “Comidas.” 1994:84; ES: Fortun. Mar 8, 02; Fernández González. 1994:192-193; and Sutil. 1994:163-164]

Note: One helping Maragato cocido contains 1,000 calories. The normal intake of a person per day is 2,000 calories with bread and dessert. An individual helping of the pork including a blood sausage has over 700 calories.

MARAGATO COCIDO FROM THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF’S RECIPES

For 6 persons

Maragato Chickpea Stew
Photo by: MR Samper and MJ Martínez Pesta

Ingredients

10 ½ oz chickpeas

7oz bacon
9 oz jerky
9 oz de gallina/hen
7 oz blood sausage
3 ½ oz salt pork
1 chorizo
1 pig’s ear
1 trotter
1 onion
2 garlic cloves
3 turnips
1/2 cow cabbage
1 c medium size noodles water extra virgin olive oil salt to taste
2 tbsp chopped parsley

Preparation

Soak chickpeas overnight. Put bacon and jerky in a separate boil and soak overnight as well. Put the meat, salt pork, chorizo, trotter, ear, chicken, bacon and jerky in a pot with plenty of water. Boil gently for 1 ½ hrs. Skim off grease. Fill a pressure cooker with plenty of water, bring to a brisk boil. Add chickpeas, onion and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook 15 minutes.
Peel the turnips and cut them into pieces. Chop the cabbage. Put them in a pot and cover with water. Add a pinch of salt. Cook 20-30 minutes.

Peel and chop garlic cloves. Brown them in a frying pan with olive oil and remove from heat.

Add chopped parsley and white pepper. Mix this and pour it over the cabbage and turnips. Strain the chickpeas and add the broth to the broth in the meat pot. Bring to a boil and add the noodles. Let it boil gently for 5 minutes. Sreve the meats and sausages first, then the chickpeas and vegetables. Serve the soup last.

Note: Leftovers from cocido are called ropa vieja ("old clothes)." The following day, the out coat or tegument of onions are friend until they become dark. Then the leftovers are put on top of them and they are cooked until toasted. Today this dish is served with natural tomato sauce.

[1] See blog titlted Col Forrrajera published April 29, 2013.

COCIDO DE DIARIO WITH RECIPE

2013-03-22T08:00:00.000-07:00

everyday chickpea stew. This is a much simpler dish than cocido or cocido maragato. The custom was that peasants left a pot of food cooking on the ashes of a fireplace when they went to work in the fields all day long. When they returned home at night, they were greeted with a warm, hearty meal. Some made new pots everyday, while others made enough food in a pot to last a week. See olla podrida. [Sutil. 1994:165; and Villar. 1994:182]

COCIDO OR EVERYDAY CHICKPEA STEW ADAPTED FROM EL LIBRO DE LA FAMILIA[1] COCIDOS O PUCHERO COMÚN, p 45-46

Everyday Chickpea Stew
Photo by: MR Samper and MJ Martínez Presta

½ lb chickpeas

1 lb meat (beef or lamb)
½ hen
entrails from the hen

3 ½ oz smoked ham

3 ½ oz streaky bacon

1 small onion

2 white carrots (orange, if not available)
1 bay leaf

salt to taste
½ tsp white pepper

Preparation

Soak chickpeas in water overnight. The next day, wash the meat and add that to the pot. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Skim off the scum. Reduce heat and boil gently for 2 hours.

Add chickpeas and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Add entrails from the hen, ham, streaky bacon, onion, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil again and then reduce heat. Continue boiling gently for 10 minutes.

Add chicken and entrails. Boil gently 20 minutes.

[1] See blog titled CHICHAS WITH RECIPE FOR COOKED MUSSLES published December 21, 2012 for explanation of the reference.