spaswinefood

Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon

2023-10-29T15:38:00.003-07:00

I started a new blog Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon on January 1, 2022 below is the introduction that I posted.

Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon

Welcome to my blog Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon. The joy of learning for me is a life long pursuit. I was an academic in the Bay Area before becoming involved in wine. Driving overland 2009-10, from Deadhorse, Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina on Las Américas Trip, led me in a new direction. I returned to North America summer of 2010 with an interest in spas – wine – food. So July 2010, thinking I wanted to do something on spas- wine – food, I started blogging at Spaswinefood. My focus has shifted to primarily wine travels. Now, over 10 years later, I am excited to embark on new adventures centered on wine travels.

Antigua, Guatemala © Spaswinefood

Since 2010 I have been based half of the year in Antigua, Guatemala, and the other half stateside. Wether in Guatemala, or in the US traveling for me has centered around wine. My travels have lead me to the wine regions of Argentina (Cafayate, Mendoza, San Juan, Salta and Patagonia), Australia (Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Granite Belt, Hunter Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Margaret River, Mudgee, New England, Orange and Yarra Valley), Bulgaria, Chile (Casablanca Valley, Cholchagua Valley and Maipo Valley), Canada (Okanagan Valley), Georgia, Greece, Germany (Mosel), France (Champagne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Provence and Tavel), Italy (Alto Adige, Chianti Classico, Franciacorta and Sicily), Portugal (Algarve, Douro, Madeira), Serbia, Romania, South Africa (Constantia, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Klein Karoo and Stellenbosch), Spain (Malaga, Navarra, Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Rueda), Switzerland (Valais), Turkey and United States (Arizona, California, Idaho, Michigan, New Mexico, New York, Texas, Oregon, and Washington), and Uruguay (Canelones, Montevideo, Maldonado). Through my writing I will continue to explore these regions and beyond.

Mosel Valley, Germany © Spaswinefood

My travels in Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey have made me aware of a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties. Whereas wine travels to Virginia and Texas have left me grape--fully surprised by the increasing use of native grapes in North America. Sure international grape varieties are the most popular; however, increasing in the US American hybrid grapes are playing a greater role.

I look forward to making discoveries through wine travels, ventures off the wine roads where other vine-filled experiences will sometimes take center stage, as well as learnings from wine events, and connections by exploring special topics. I am happy to share my vine-filled adventures with my husband, John Matson. Special thanks go to groups, such as #Winelover, Digital Wine Bloggers Conference (European Wine Bloggers Conference), Wine Media Conference (Wine Bloggers Conference), and others, which inspired, and continue to inspire me on this wine journey around the world. I invite you to join me in the sharing of these adventures at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon and Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Dr. Sharon

January 1, 2022

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua, Guatemala © Spaswinefood

Thank you Oltrepò Pavese for our vine-filled adventures.

2023-01-02T10:49:00.001-08:00

Our Oltrepò Pavese wine country travels were packed with vine-filled activities. After our last winery visit each day, off we went to meet up with other local producers over dinner. The dinners (Agritourismo La Colombina, and Il Feudo Nico) were hosted for us as guests of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province during our #WMC22 post-conference trip. We had come to discover Oltrepò Pavese's wines therefore meeting with as many wine producers as possible offered maximum insights into this region. Dinner was a great way to be introduced Oltrepò Pavese wines that we would have missed otherwise. Hopefully, this post not only captures the highlights from these two diners but also shows our appreciation. Thank you all!!

Dinner at Agritourismo La Colombina - I Doria Di Montalto

After Torti Wines visit on that first day off we into the night. Agritourismo La Colombina was our dinner hosts that evening.

Oltrepò Pavese Nights © Spaswinefood

On the first evening we ate at Agritourismo La Colombina - I Doria Di Montalto. Their Agritourismo has 75 hectares of vineyards from which they produce Doria wines: Riesling, Barbera, Croatina, Nebbiolo and Pinot Nero. In addition, they produce wines from Croatina, Rara and Vespolina, which are grapes of ancient cultivation. While tradition is important to the Doria Family, they also use the most modern technologies, to create quality wines. Upon arrival our host welcomed us with I Doria sparkling riesling wines.

Agritourismo La Colombina - I Doria Di Montalto © Spaswinefood

1. I Doria Di Montalto, Riesling Brut Metodo Classico

I Doria Di Montalto, Riesling Brut © Spaswinefood

2. I Doria Di Montalto, Milleottocento Metodo Classico

I Doria Di Montalto, Milleottocento Metodo Classico © Spaswinefood

These pre-dinner I Doria Di Montalto Metodo Classico Riesling wines were a fabulous introduction to Oltrepò Pavese Riesling wines.

Table Ready, Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

One of the wines first served for dinner was a La Travaglina Martinburgo Metodo Classico Brut.

Tasting La Travaglina Martinburgo © Spaswinefood

An appertizer plate was served to go along with the La Travaglina Martinburgo Metodo Classico Brut.

Appertizer, Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

This was followed by the next two wines:

Berté & Cordini Cuvée Nero D'Oro Metodo Classico

Berté & Cordini, Cuvée Nero D'Oro Metodo Classico © Spaswinefood

Vigna Del Felice, Riesling Renano IGT 2020

Vigna Del Felice, Riesling Renano IGT 2020 © Spaswinefood

The first course was a mushroom pasta.

First Plate: Pasta, Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

This plate was accompanied by riesling wine.

I Doria Di Montalto, Roncobianco Reserva

I Doria Di Montalto, Roncobianco Reserva © Spaswinefood

This I Doria Di Montalto Riesling added to my overall appreciation of I Doria Di Montalto Riesling wines.

Soon the second plates arrived at the table.

Second Plate, Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

Second Plate (Vegetarian), Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

Soon the red wines arrived.

La Travaglina Casaia Pinot Nero © Spaswinefood

Berté & Cordini, Nüval Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese 2015

Berté & Cordini, Nüval Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese 2015 © Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese Cruase Metodo Classico DOCG wines also served during dinner.

La Travaglina, Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG

La Travaglina Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG © Spaswinefood

Berté & Cordini, Cruase Pinot Nero Rosé Metodo Classico Brut Nature DOCG

Berté & Cordini, Cruase Pinot Nero Rosé Metodo Classico Brut Nature DOCG © Spaswinefood

Cruase Pinot Nero Rosé Metodo Classico Brut Nature in the Glass © Spaswinefood

These Oltrepò Pavese Cruase Metodo Classico DOCG were outstanding!

Of course there was dessert and coffee, and a sweet wine that I missed tasting.

Oltrepò Pavese Vine-filled Days, Agritourismo La Colombina © Spaswinefood

Dinner was a great way to meet producers whose wineries we could not visit.

Thanks Oltrepò Pavese Wine Producers © Spaswinefood

The wines served over dinner amid conversations added to my further appreciation of Oltrepò Pavese .

Diner at Il Feudo Nico

Next day, after a fantastic wine tasting at Conte Vistarino we boarded the van and headed to dinner at Il Feudo Nico.

Table Ready, Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

One of the first wines poured that evening was Il Feudo Nico wine.

Il Feudo Nico, Maira Antonietta Method Classico Brut

Il Feudo Nico, Maira Antonietta Method Classico Brut © Spaswinefood

This wine is part of Il Feudo Nico's Maria Antonietta Wine Collection.

Next wine was Bruno Verdi.

Bruno Verdi, Riesling 2021

Bruno Verdi, Riesling 2021 © Spaswinefood

Following the wines there was an appetizer served.

Appetizer Plate, Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

Soon the first plate arrived.

First Plate-Pasta, Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

As the second plate arrived we were served red wines (Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC).

Bruno Verdi, Cavariola Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

Wine Moments with Second Plate, Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

Of course there was always vegetarian options.

Second Plate (Vegetarian) Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

Our evening dinner included more Oltrepò Pavese (Rosso) red wines. These were red wines that we never encountered during our two-day visit. They were Bonarda, Barbera, and another Oltrepò Pavese red wine (Rosso).

Oltrepò Pavese Bonarda wine is made from the Coatina grapes (85-100%), with other grape varieties being Barbera, Uva Rara, and Ughetta (to a maximum of 15%). It is produced as a Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

The following are two Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines we tasted during dinner:

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC © Spaswinefood

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC © Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese Barbera wine is made from Barbera grapes (85-100%) and other varietals to a maximum of 15%. It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC. Now an example of one of these Barbera wines.

Tenuta Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Tenuta Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese red wines (Rosso) are produced from a blend of Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero) to maximum of 45%. These wines are produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC.

Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC

Tenuta Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019

Tenuta Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood

We appreciated tasting and learning about all of the above wines. It also great to have the opportunity to meet more wine producers. Amongst our winery producers that evening was Cristina Cerri Comi from Tenuta Travaglino. Ms Comi is fifth generation of the Comi family to manage the family winery.

Thank you Tenuta Travaglino © Spaswinefood

Of course there was dessert to end the evening.

Ending on a Sweet Note, Il Feudo Nico © Spaswinefood

Thanks Oltrepò Pavese for those wonderful wine conversations. We left the Oltrepò Pavese wine region with stunning visual images etched into our wine travel memories.

Oltrepò Pavese to the Alps, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Towns of Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

Thank you Oltrepò Pavese for those vine-filled days with wine producers who treated us so well during our wine media trip. Also, special thanks to our dinner hosts (
Agritourismo La Colombina, and Il Feudo Nico). It was an early October day when
we crossed the Po River, and arrived this very special place. As guests of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province we had come to discover this region's wines. After completing the winery visits, and dining with the producers we can easily say Oltrepò Pavese is one of Italy's best kept secrets. We were impressed by the charm of Oltrepò Pavese towns, its wineries, and its wines. We so look forward to sharing more on future vine-filled explorations in Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese. We invite you to join us in our wine travels in Italy at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

Sharon & John

October 2022

Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy

Thank You Il Feudo © Spaswinefood

Thank You Agritourismo La Colombina - I Doria Di Montalto © Spaswinefood

Thanks
Oltrepò Pavese
for Our Post-Conference #WMC22 Visit © Spaswinefood

It is so easy to fall in love with Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese

2022-10-22T13:05:00.003-07:00

We crossed the Po River into Oltrepò Pavese, and then later as we drove south, passing over a foothill's mountain crest, we arrived at a very special place. While north of the Po River is characterized by plains, south of the river, the hills and mountains, make it ideal for grape cultivation. Oltrepò Pavese, an area often neglected by tourists and winelovers, is naturally beautiful and so very authentic. As guests of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province we had come to discover this wine region.

Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese, Castillo Di Luzzano © Spaswinefood

Right from our arrival at Castillo Di Luzzano we were introduced to wine country at its best. This experience would continue throughout our visit.

Oltrepò Pavese Wine Country, © Spaswinefood

Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese

A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy has 5 DOCGs, 21 DOCs and 15 IGPs titles. Lombardy's home to handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina, Franciacorta sparkling wines, and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepò Pavese stands out among these as one of the larger regions, known not only for its sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but for its other wines. During our visit to Oltrepò Pavese we would be introduced to these wines.

Pavia Province's Oltrepò Pavese, home to stunning landscape, has a long tradition of wine making. Oltrepò Pavese, with at least 2000 years of wine-making history there is much to say; however the focus of this post will be on the wines. During our two day visit over cheese and meat platters, lunch, or dinner we were introduced to many excellent wines.

Let's begin by focusing on the grape varieties grown, the styles of wines produced, and it's DOC’s and DOCG’s.

Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) is the major grape variety and it is used to make excellent sparkling wines and still red wines. The region is best know for its Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, with Cruase being its flagship wine. The list includes: Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG, and Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

Let's start with the sparkling wines. When we visited La Versa, a wine cooperative, we were introduced to a fabulous lineup of sparkling wines.

La Versa, Sparkling Wines

La Versa's Sparkling Wines, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

After this impressive tasting we would continue to be introduced Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Noir sparkling wines.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Nero Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Nero, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at CA' Di FrarA Winery we were greeted by the owner.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

She took us on a brief trip to the vineyards before wine tasting.

CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Our two day visit was filled with so many excellent sparkling wines. Torti Wines, Casaleggio was one of those.

Torti Vineyard, Casaleggio © Spaswinefood

Torti Wines produces DOC and DOCG wines and sparkling wines. We concluded our visit to this family winery with a special bottle of sparking wine. Yes, a Gran Carisma DOCG Pinot Nero Metodo Classico Dino Torti.

Dino and Daughter, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood

Dino Torti, Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood

This is a winery that knows how to host visitors.

Chandelier Moment, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood

The Torti family are fabulous hosts.

When we visited Frecciarossa Winery we fell under the spell of this amazing place and its wines.

Welcome to Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

We had a fabulous visit getting to know their wines.

Frecciarossa, Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019

Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood

Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

This wine we enjoyed at the beginning lunch. Over lunch were introduced to more of Frecciarossa's excellent wines.

Lunch at Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

Before leaving we took a walk around this stunning property.

Vineyard Views, Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG,

Dinner was a great way to meet producers whose wineries we could not visit.

Oltrepò Pavese Wine Producers © Spaswinefood

One of the wines served at the first dinner was a Cruase.

La Travaglina, Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG

La Travaglina Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG © Spaswinefood

Our first Oltrepò Pavese winery visit was Castillo Di Luzzano where we took in the valley views, did a wine tasting at the castle, followed by the most delicious lunch.

Lunch, Castillo Di Luzzano © Spaswinefood

We were introduced to their sparkling and still Pinot Nero wines. Let's take a look at a few still wines.

Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

There were two Pinot Nero still wines served during lunch.

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

The last wine was a special Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006 that our host selected from the cellar.

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006 © Spaswinefood

Yes, the dessert was a great pairing for this Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006.

Dessert at its BEST © Spaswinefood

Over the two days we would encounter a number of Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines.

We were introduced to three Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines at Conte Vistarino.

Conte Vistarino (Tenuta di Rocca de Giorgi) Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Conte Vistarino, Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

This was one of the three Pinot Nero wines, from three different vineyards which, we tasted at Conte Vistarino, Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi.

Conte Vistarino, Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 Wines © Spaswinefood

A beautiful way to begin our second day was at Castello Stefanago. Here we climbed to the top of the castle to take in the stunning views. It was followed by an excellent wine tasting.

Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

The wine tasting was an awesome line of wines. Amongst the wines was an Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC.

Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC

Castello di Stefanago, Pinot Nero © Spaswinefood

The above wines are examples of some of the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG sparkling wines, and Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC still wines we tasted.

2. Bonarda wine is made from the Coatina grapes (85-100%), with other grape varieties being Barbera, Uva Rara, and Ughetta (to a maximum of 15%). It is produced as a Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

Two the Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines we tasted during dinner on the second evening follows:

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC © Spaswinefood

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC © Spaswinefood

3. Barbera wine is made from Barbera grapes (85-100%) and other varietals to a maximum of 15%. It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC. Now an example of one of these Barbera wines.

Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

4. Oltrepò Pavese red wines (Rosso) produced from a blend of Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero) to maximum of 45%. These wines are produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC.

Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC

Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019

Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood

5. Riesling wines are produced from Riesling Italico and Riesling Renano grapes. They are produced in both still (two versions: Superiore and Riserva with 24 months of bottle aging), and sparkling styles (Frizzante and Spumante Metodo Martinolti). It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC.

Over our two day visit we tasted many excellent sparkling Riesling wines.

Frecciarossa, Gli Orti Riesling, Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020

Frecciarossa, Gli Orti Riesling, Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020 © Spaswinefood

We would also like to note the following two other Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines (Sangue Di Giuda and Moscato) produced:

6. An Oltrepò Pavese Sangue Di Giuda wine from small area (the municipalities of Bosnasco, Montu Beccaria, Pieta de Giorgi and Cigonola) is made from Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other grape varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero, to maximum of 45%). This wine is only made in the Vivace (light sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling), and Spumante (sparkling) styles. It is produced as a Sangue Di Giuda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

7. A Moscato wine produced from Moscato Bianco, with a minimum of 85% of this grape variety. The Volpara area is well suited for producing this wine. It is made in the Vivace (light sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling), and Spumante (sparkling) styles. It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Moscato DOC.

While in Oltrepò Pavese we also tasted some wines that were not DOC's Or DOCG's, such as the following example, a Pinot Grigio.

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021 © Spaswinefood

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021 © Spaswinefood

In conclusion, Oltrepò Pavese is an Italian wine country gem. Throughout our Oltrepò Pavese wine travels we were greeted by winery owners at the winery, or over evening dinner in some cases. Then, there were those special times when we toured the winery, and/or the vineyard. We left the Oltrepò Pavese wine region with stunning visual images etched into our wine travel memories.

Oltrepò Pavese to the Alps, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood

Towns of Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

Travelers will be impressed by the charm of Oltrepò Pavese towns and its wineries. Indeed it is so easy to fall in love with Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese. Most important, Oltrepò Pavese wines are top tier world class wines. Oltrepò Pavese is one of Italy's best kept secrets. We so look forward to sharing more on our vine-filled explorations in Lombardy. This WMC (Wine Media Conference) post-conference Oltrepo Pavese excursion was part of WMC22, which took place at the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano. Our Italian host was SCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different Lombardy winery associations. We invite you to join us in our wine travels in Italy at Spaswinefood and Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and on Twitter and Facebook.

CHEERS!

John & Sharon

October 2022

Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy

Oltrepò Pavese Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Returning to Lombardy's Wine Region

2022-10-10T02:03:00.005-07:00

The grape harvest is nearing completion, it is the end of September, and we were off to Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy, one of northern Italy’s premier tourist destinations. The lake borders on the provinces of Lombardia (Lombardy) and Veneto. There we attended WMC22 (Wine Media Conference 2022), which took place in the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano del Garda, a small town on the lake’s southern shore. Desenzanzo, along with its sister city Sirmione, are the best known destinations on the lake. Let us not forget Italy's second-largest city (Milan), the regional capital, where we rested before heading onto Desenzanzo.

Desenzanzo de Garda, Lake Garda, Lombardy © Spaswinefood

During the conference (September 29-October 2, 2022) we focused on getting to know the wines from Lombardy's wine region.

September Vines © Spaswinefood

The Grapes are Off to the Tank © Spaswinefood

Off to the Lombardy Wine Region

A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy has 5 DOCG , 21 DOC and 15 IGP titles. Lombardy is home to handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina and the high-quality sparkling wine of Franciacorta and Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepo Pavese zone stands out among these as one of the larger, better-known regions, not only for its sparkling Oltrepo Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but for its other wines, like Pinot Nero. Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, is from the rapidly developing and well-regarded vineyards between Brescia and Lake Iseo. One of the regions we explored in 2011 was Franciacorta; so we were very happy to return.

NOTE: Franciacorta is not a part of ASCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different winery associations in Lombardy, which partnered with WMC22 in hosting the conference. Our understanding is that maybe in the future.

WMC22 (Wine Media Conference 2022), Desenzano del Garda

The town, Desenzanzo, has an historic center near the port, which was once the strategic heart of this trading town. The small streets are a great place to walk and explore. Moreover, you can walk the lake shore to the lighthouse on the other side of the port. Also, in the old town is the Castello di Desenzano del Garda (castle), which overlooks the town and has some of the best views of Lake Garda. The town has a long promenade along Lake Garda, which runs from the port to our hotel. There are also multiple beaches to enjoy. Sirmione, located on a peninsula that juts into the lake, is also a great location to checkout.

The WMC22 took place at the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano. Our Italian host was

ASCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different winery associations in Lombardy. Ascovilo had a strong presence at the conference, sponsoring Friday excursions and the two Live Wine Social events. In addition, there will be pre-conference and post-conference excursions. We took a post-conference excursion to Oltrepo Pavese. Future posts on Oltrepo Pavese are forth coming.

Oltrepo Pavese Post Conference © Spaswinefood

Remembering Franciacorta, 2011

We remember so well that our wine adventures began in this area in 2011. October 2011 Spaswinefood wrote this:

This week I leave California for Italy. My Spaswinefood travels will take me to Brescia, Italy for the European Wine Bloggers Conference 2011. Of course, I have checked the weather in Brescia. While I have read a little on Brescia's history (ancient era, middle ages and modern era) most of my research has been on wine. Yes, I must admit I spend lots of time on this.

Indeed ever since EWBC2011, our first wine media conference, we have not stopped exploring the wine regions of the world.

Villa Franciacorta, October 2011

The glasses are ready at Villa Franciacorta © Spaswinefood

So are the Franciacortas nicely chilled © Spaswinefood

A Tenute La Montina at the front © Spaswinefood

Which one would you like to taste? © Spaswinefood

Franciacorta, the second of Lombardy's two sparkling DOCG wines, as noted it is well-regarded for its wine. We will not forget to taste a few of those.

As we return to Italy, to further explore the Lombardy Wine Region, We invite you to join us in our wine travels in Italy and elsewhere at Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and at Spaswinefood on Twitter and Facebook. We are so looking forward to sharing our vine-filled explorations in Lombardia.

CHEERS!

John & Sharon

October 2022

Lombardy, Italy

Sunset Lake Garda, Lombardy © Spaswinefood

Harvest Awaits © Spaswinefood

Tales from the Finger Lakes wine road: Anthony Road

2021-11-01T09:45:00.004-07:00

I was indeed excited when my Anthony Road wine shipment arrived after our cross country summer travels. Our Spaswinefood summer travels took us to Anthony Road winery in the Fingers Lakes, New York. Despite it being a wet spring day when we visited the winery we were happy to return. We had first visited this family winery in 2015 and we were delighted to return once more.

Arrived Anthony Road Wines © Spaswinefood

I invite you to grab your wine glass and join me at Anthony Road on Seneca Lake Wine Trail.

Anthony Road, Seneca Lake Wine Trail, Finger Lakes 2021 © Spaswinefood

Seneca Lake Wine Trail

Anthony Road winery is located in the Seneca Lake American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Upstate New York. Established in 2003 this AVA is part of the larger Finger Lakes AVA that was established in 1982. Finger Lakes AVA is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards located near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake. Seneca Lake, the deepest of the Finger Lakes contributes to the climatic conditions around the lake. The result is a longer growing season, plus protection from the freezing winters in Upstate New York. Given the unique viticultural characteristics within the Seneca Lake AVA the wines have described as having their own distinctive flavor profiles. Our first Spaswinefood's visit was the summer of 2015; so when the opportunity to return to the Finger Lakes arose we put Anthony Road on our list.

Off to Anthony Road, Penn Yan © Spaswinefood

Off to Anthony Road

Now a few wine highlights from our end May 2021 excursion to Anthony Road winery in Penn Yan. I tasted the following wine flights:

1. Anthony Road The Sibling Rivalry Flight

The Sibling Rivalry Flight, Anthony Road © Spaswinefood

The Sibling Rivalry Flight © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines I tasted in this flight were Rieslings produced in different styles (without skin contact and with some skin contact (skin fermented), and vintages, etc.

2. Anthony Road, The Range of Red Flight

Next, I tasted one rose and four red wines.

Anthony Road The Range of Red Flight © Spaswinefood

The Range of Red Flight © Spaswinefood

Both of the above flights were a great overview of Anthony Road wines. I would highly recommend tasting these two flights.

Remembering Anthony Road Wine Company

During our first visit to Anthony Road Wine Company in 2015 we toured the vineyard, the winery and did a wine tasting. We so enjoyed our visit to this family winery.

Anthony Road Vineyard, Finger Lakes 2015 © Spaswinefood

John Martini, Anthony Road Vineyard 2015 © Spaswinefood

After a tour of the vineyard and winery we returned to the veranda for a wine tasting.

Anthony Road Winery, Finger Lakes, NY © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting at Anthony Road, Finger Lakes, 2015 © Spaswinefood

Included in that tasting was a side by side tasting of two Rieslings produced in two different styles. That is, fermented with without skin contact and with some skin contact (skin fermented).

Anthony Road, Side by Side Tasting of Riesling 2015 © Spaswinefood

Fortunately the summer 2021 was a good time to return. Included in the The Sibling Rivalry Flight I tasted an exciting lineup of Riesling wines. Again, the skin fermented and non-skin fermented Rieslings presented a wonderful contrast, as did the skin fermented and non-skin fermented Pinot Gris. These contrasts make for interesting wine conversations!

The Sibling Rivalry Flight 2021 © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look, The Sibling Rivalry Flight 2021 © Spaswinefood

After tasting the The Sibling Rivalry Flight and The Range of Red Flight wine flights at Anthony Road I could not resist ordering some wines for later enjoyment. My advice is simple, Put some Finger Lakes Anthony Road Wines in your glass. For sure you will then discover what is special about Finger Lakes Wine Country. I invite you to join me in my travels in the Finger Lakes and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Summer 2021

Finger Lakes, New York

Anthony Road Wines © Spaswinefood

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Willamette Wine Country at its best: Lunch at Cottage Grove’s Covered Bridge

2021-10-09T14:55:00.002-07:00

Lunch paired with wines, from Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon and Iris Vineyards at Cottage Grove’s Covered Bridge was pure joy. After leaving Eugene the bus continue onto the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge located in Cottage Grove, Oregon. Here we enjoyed a most fabulous lunch in downtown Cottage Grove at an historic covered bridge, the only remaining covered railroad bridge west of the Mississippi. Cottage Grove is a small town in Lane County, located on the Row River and near the Umpqua National Forest. Spaswinefood welcomed the opportunity on our Wine Media Conference #WMC21 South Willamette Valley post-conference excursion to visit Cottage Grove’s Covered Bridge. We discovered Willamette Wine Country at its best!

Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge, Cottage Grove, Oregon © Spaswinefood

Let's Tour South Willamette Valley Wine Country

After touring Eugene the bus continue on to the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge located in Cottage Grove, Oregon. The South Willamette is home to wineries and vineyards that surround Eugene. We were introduced to three of those wineries over lunch.

Lunch at the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge

Welcome to Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge, Cottage Grove © Spaswinefood

We were welcomed with a refreshing glass of Iris Vineyards Brut Blanc de Noirs 2018.

Iris Vineyards, Areté Brut Blanc de Noirs 2018 © Spaswinefood

Indeed, we ate a most delightful lunch, paired with wines from Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon, and Iris Vineyards, on the only remaining covered railroad bridge west of the Mississippi. The Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge constructed in 1925, moved and restored in 2011. Looking at the amazing intricate metal work inside the bridge even tells more of the story. What a stunning setting for lunch!

Ready for Lunch, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

Not only was it the most fabulous lunch with great wines, but also the hospitality was amazing!

Lunch, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

Lunching in style, with great food and wines was a first class wine country experience.

Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

The Wines

There was Brigadoon Pinot Blanc 2020 paired with the salad.

Brigadoon Pinot Blanc 2020

Brigadoon Pinot Blanc 2020 © Spaswinefood

Main course was Savory or Vegetable Quiche. The edible flowers accompanying the meal were supplied by Long Table Farm, Eugene.

Edible Flowers by Long Table Farm © Spaswinefood

Let's take a look at the Pinot Noir wines we were served while gathered around the table.

Welcome Wine, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

The following three Pinot Noir wines were served:

1. Bluebird Hill Cellars, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2018

Bluebird Hill Cellars, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2018 © Spaswinefood

Iris Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

Waiting to Pour Iris Vineyards, Pinot Noir © Spaswinefood

3. Brigadoon Pinot Noir

Brigadoon Pinot Noir © Spaswinefood

Over lunch we tasted three Pinot Noir wines.

Pinot Noir in the Pinot Glass © Spaswinefood

We concluded lunch with Fresh Berry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream. The pie was by Coast Fork Brewing, Cottage Grove and Ice Cream by Lockmead Dairy, Junction City. Desert was paired with

Brigadoon Riesling 'Off-dry" 2019.

Brigadoon Riesling 'Off-dry" 2019

Brigadoon Riesling 'Off-dry" 2019 © Spaswinefood

Other wines from Bluebird Hill Cellars and Iris Vineyards that we tasted were the following:

1. Bluebird Hill Cellars

Bluebird Hill Chardonnay 2019

Bluebird Hill Chardonnay 2019 © Spaswinefood

2. Iris Vineyards

Iris Vineyards, Pinot Gris

Iris Vineyards, Pinot Gris © Spaswinefood

What a wonderful introduction to these Willamette Valley wines it was!

Wine Tasting, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

The Wineries

Before leaving we thanked the host wineries.

Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon and Iris Vineyards Winemakers © Spaswinefood

After being spoiled at lunch our South Willamette Valley vine-filled explorations continued. Again, I would like to thank our winery hosts for the most fabulous lunch.

Bluebird Hill Cellars

Sue Shay | info@bluebirdhillcellars.wine

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Instagram | @bbhalpine

Twitter | @BBHAlpine

Brigadoon Wine Company

Matt Shown | matt@brigadoonwineco.com

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Instagram | @brigadoonwineco

Iris Vineyards

David Cordtz | dcordtz@irisvineyards.com

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Instagram | @irisvineyards

Twitter | @irisvineyards

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Discover Willamette Wine Country at its best by visiting the above wineries, and of course checking out the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge. For a complete list of South Willamette Valley wineries see Southern Willamette Valley Wineries Association. We invite you to join us in our Oregon wine country travels and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Cottage Grove, Oregon

A Summer's Lunch, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

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Live Wine Social: Red wines in the glass

2021-10-08T13:35:00.001-07:00

When our 2021 Wine Media Conference (Wine Summer Camp) #WMC21 met in Eugene, Oregon Spaswinefood was there. The Live Wine Social is the conference's signature event, that includes two live blogging sessions. Conference attendees sit at round tables as winemakers and winery reps circle around the room, pour wines and talk about them, while we tweet and post on social media “live” and in real time. Let's take a look at some of the red wines featured at one of the sessions during the recent Wine Media Conference's Live Wine Social.

Wine Media Conference #WMC21, Eugene, Oregon © Spaswinefood

Each participating winery pours one wine for a table of attendees. Bloggers, writers, and influencers taste, analyze, and write about the wine or winery on the spot. Wineries then move to a new table in a speed-dating format. Live Wine Social is one of the highlights that I look forward to each year. Imagine if you combined speed dating and wine tasting then that’s Live Wine Social! This year included red wines from Troon Vineyard, Pfeiffer Vineyard, Brooks Wines, and Knotty Vines.

1. Troon Vineyard

Oregon's Troon Vineyard has a long history of sharing their wines at the wine media conference. I always look forward to discovering their latest wines. This year they shared a

Troon Vineyard, Siskiyou Syrah, Applegate Valley 2019

Troon Vineyard, Siskiyou Syrah, Applegate Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

Troon Vineyard, Siskiyou Syrah, Applegate Valley 2019 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Siskiyou Syrah, Applegate Valley 2019 in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Troon Vineyard is focused on naturally crafted creative wines using a minimalist and biodynamic approach. They are CCOF Organic Certified, and Demeter Certified Biodynamic. This 2019 estate grown Siskiyou Syrah gets its name from the mountains that surround the vineyard. Herbs and pepper on the nose, with delicious fruit and black pepper on the palate. This Kubli Bench Troon Vineyard wine is typical of wines with a sense of place. I would also dd that wine making style has a great influence as well.

2. Pfeiffer Vineyard

Pfeiffer Vineyard owners were on hand to introduce their Pinot Noir wine. Danuta and Robin Pfeiffer also shared a brief history of their winery.

#WMC21, Eugene, Oregon © Spaswinefood

Pfeiffer Winery is known for their exclusive, small lot, estate grown Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris wines. These wines are only sold at the winery. They also supply grapes to King Estate.

Pfeiffer Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2017

Pfeiffer Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2017 © Spaswinefood

Pinot Noir in the Glass © Spaswinefood

3. Brooks Wines

Brooks Wine founded in 1998 is one of Willamette Valley's top wineries. Brooks is a biodynamic winery renowned for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Riesling. I tasted a Brooks Estate Vineyard, Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017.

Brooks Estate Vineyard, Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017

Brooks, Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 © Spaswinefood

Brooks, Rastaban Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2017 (back label) © Spaswinefood

This Pinot Noir was an absolute delight. Perhaps not a surprise given Brooks Wine, along with other Oregon wineries have earned a spot on Wine & Spirits magazine’s prestigious annual Top 100 Wineries list for 2019. Wineries on the 2019 list were selected based on “their performance in the magazine’s two-step blind-tasting process and celebrated for their exceptional wines,” according to the magazine’s website. It has been recognized as an outstanding producer of Pinot Noir and Riesling.

4. Knotty Vines

Knotty Vines, a Rodney Strong brand, was launched on September 1, 2020. The brand targets older millennials and gen-x wine consumers.

Knotty Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Knotty Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 © Spaswinefood

Knotty Vines, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Some describe the Cabernet Sauvignon as being indulgent because of its playful silky tannins, with notes of chocolate and blackberries.

Knotty Vine's winemaker Olivia Wright was on hand to introduce the wine.

Winemaker Time, #WMC21 © Spaswinefood

She introduced Knotty Vines brand to the audience with an intriguing video.

A Knotty Vines Video © Spaswinefood

During #WMC21 besides this Knotty Vines Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted other Knotty Vines wines during the conference. Knotty Vines goal is to tap into the energetic, daring spirit of modern-day experience seekers, by giving them permission to indulge and create everyday emotional connections. This brand offers 2018 vintages of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Red Blend. Their Chardonnay is described as flaunting vibrant peach, green apple, and tropical notes; the Pinot Noir as dark and sumptuous with rich flavors of black cherry, vanilla and oak; the Cabernet Sauvignon as packed with chocolate and blackberries with playful silky tannins; and the Red Blend (Merlot, Malbec, Zinfandel and Petit Verdot) as ripe plum, coffee, black cherry and chocolate flavors and a rich, smooth finish.

For sure tasting these Oregon (Troon Vineyard, Pfeiffer, Brooks Wine) and a California ( Rodney Strong Knotty Vine) red wines was very engaging experience. Our annual Wine Media Conference (or as some like to call it Wine Summer Camp) #WMC21 was so much fun. Live blogging was a great introduction to these red wines. We invite you to join us in our travels in Oregon wine country and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

Eugene, Oregon

August 2021

Let's make plans to go to Italy's Marche wine country

2021-10-04T05:46:00.001-07:00

Our trip to the Grand Canyon included a special bottle of wine led us to start planning for a Le Marche (pronounced Markay) wine journey. These days we are dreaming about exploring Italy's Le Marche wine region. We were inspired by a session at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC21) on Marche featuring Velenosivini wines. After learning about this wine region and tasting some Marche wines it makes us want to visit soon. Until we do let's begin our virtual adventure.

Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Picino D.O.C. Superioré © Spaswinefood

South Rim, Grand Canyon © Spaswinefood

Does where you drink wine make a difference? For sure drinking a Le Marche wines at edge of the Grand Canyon was an ideal setting. It was also perfect timing to reflection on the earlier tasting.

Exploring Le Marche Wines, #WMC21 © Spaswinefood

Take Us to Italy's Marche Wine Country

Le Marche wine region is on the eastern side of central Italy. It is considered to be Italy’s coastal gem. Winemaking in Le Marche dates back thousands of years, being influenced by Etruscans, Romans and Lombards. While Le Marche is best known for its white wines Trebbiano and Verdiccho, it is also home to some big quality reds. Some of Italy’s finest Marche wines comes from Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes.

Le Marche, Italy © Spaswinefood

While sometimes overshadowed by its neighbors Abruzzo to the south, and Umbria and Tuscany to the west, the Le Marche wine region produces great wines. It is home to 15 DOCs and 5 DOCGs.

Marche Wine Appellations © Spaswinefood

During the tasting we explored wines from the Marche's wine appellations of Verdicchio di Castilli di Jesi, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, and Rosso Piceno DOC's, and DOCG Pecorino .

Marche Wines

Earlier during that #WMC21 session attendees were introduced to wines by Velenosivini. Let's take a closer look at these Le Marche wines. The four Velenosi Ascoli Piceno wines tasted were:

1. Verdicchio Querciantica, Dei Castilli Di Jesi DOC Classico

Verdicchio Querciantica, Dei Castilli Di Jesi DOC Classico © Spaswinefood

Verdicchio ripens slowly, high in tartaric acid, does well with aging in oak. This very versatile grape allows it to be made in many styles (dry, sweet and sparkling). It is a complex wine, characterized by aromas of fruit - peach, lemon, apple, pear, and yellow plums; floral- acacia, hawthorn, chamomile, white flower; herbs- dill, thyme, anise, basil, coriander; terry- almond, honey, beeswax, lees, Unami; minerals - iodine, flint, sea spray, petrol. This wine is delightful young and can age, allowing for complexity, harmony and depth as it matures.

The following slide describes Verdicchio di Castilli di Jesi DOC:

Verdicchio di Castilli di Jesi DOC © Spaswinefood

2. Villa Angela, Offida DOCG Pecorino

Villa Angela, Offida DOCG Pecorino © Spaswinefood

Pecorino, white grape variety, grows in the Marche, Abruzzo, Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio regions of Italy. Pecorino is a very old variety. Ampelographers believe that the grape is likely native to Marche. It likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains, and later was domesticated for wine production. This once nearly extinct grapes has been under going a revival.

Pecorino grapes ripen early. It has been described as straw yellow, having good structure, high acidity, dry with mineral characteristics and a salty undertone. This medium body wine can have fruity aromas of apple, pear, candied orange, and tropical fruit, herbal aromas (sage, mint and thyme), and a floral bouquet (such as acacia, jasmine and linden flowers).

How Pecorino Got Its Name

Historically this grape has ties to local shepherds (Pecora is Italian for sheep). There are interesting stories of how the grape got its name. It is thought that sheep nibbled on these grapes as the shepherds took care of their flock. Given that Pecorino is also a name for a cheese, one version of the story is - the shepherds compensated the vineyard owners for the grapes that the sheep ate with Pecorino cheese. Yes, Pecorino is a type of cheese. Another explanation is the shape of the grape bunches resembles a sheep's head.

Pecorino is one of the most common grape varieties in Le Marche. It is considered to be one of Italy's wine success stories of 21st century. Maybe native to Sibling Mountain area. It was abandoned and rediscovered at Arquata. Officially recognized as a wine in 1990, DOC in 2001, and DOCG in 2011.

DOCG Pecorino, Le Marche © Spaswinefood

Le Marche's Offida Pecorino DOCG requires that for Pecorino to be made as a varietal it has to make up at least 85% of the blend, with other local, non-aromatic grapes, being permitted for the remainder.

3. Querciantica Lacrima Di Morro DOC

Querciantica Lacrima Di Morro DOC © Spaswinefood

Lacrima means tear in Italian. The grape gets its name because when the grape ripens it has a thin skin, which can easily break. Given its skin breaks easily this makes it vulnerable to pests and disease. For that and other reasons it was almost abandoned, with it being rescued in 1980's and made a DOC in 1985. The characteristics of this aromatic variety include; fruit (black cherry, dark berry); floral (violets, lavender and rose buds); and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger). This wine has an intense ruby red color with violet hues. On palette the wine is dry with medium tannins and lingering rich flavors.

The following slide describes Lacrima Di Morro d'Alba DOC:

Lacrima Di Morro d'Alba DOC © Spaswinefood

4. Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré 2017

Roggio Del Filare, Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré © Spaswinefood

Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré © Spaswinefood

This Roggio Del Filare wine is a bright ruby red wine with slight garnet hues. It is made using 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese grapes. Obviously the characteristics of this Roggio Del Filare wine is influenced by the grapes that are used to make it. Now for a brief look at the characteristics of Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes.

Montepulciano and Sangiovese Grapes © Spaswinefood

The wine has an intense bouquet of ripe plums and cherries, with spices and floral nuances. On the palette this full bodied wine has strong texture, rounded tannins, with a warm, lingering velvety pulp and spicy finish.

The following slide summarizes the Rosso Picino Superioré DOC:

Rosso Picino Superioré DOC © Spaswinefood

Let's make plans to go to Italy's Marche wine country. For sure the Wine Media session entitled Le Marche, the "new Tuscany" in Central Italy certainly was a hit. It took us to Italy's Marche wine country to learn about its inviting wines. We have since discovered that not only are there great wines but some of Italy's best cheeses are in Le Marche. We invite you to join us in our future travels in Italy and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

Why Visit Le Marche © Spaswinefood

Rosso Piceno DOC Superioré © Spaswinefood

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Live Wine Social: Rosé/White/Amber wines in the glass

2021-10-01T09:21:00.002-07:00

Live Wine Social events at the Wine Media Conference (#wmc21) meant that we had the opportunity to participate in two live blogging sessions. Live Wine Social is known as the signature event of the Wine Media Conference. Participating wineries each have about five minutes to pour one wine for a table of attendees. The attendees taste, analyze, and write about the wine and/or winery on the spot. Wineries then move to a new table in a speed-dating format. The Live Wine Social event is one of the highlights that we look forward to each year. Imagine if you combined speed dating and tasting that makes the Live Wine Social! So much fun, right?

Rosé/White/Amber Wines in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Live Wine Social: White, Rosé, and Amber Wines

Conference attendees (serious journalists, bloggers, influencers, and podcast hosts) sit round tables as winemakers and winery representatives circle around the room, pour wines and talk about them, while we tweet and post on social media. This event is live and in real time. This year the white, rosé, and amber wines I tasted included the following wines (Longevity Wines, Troon Vineyard, Benton-Lane, Brooks Wine, and Rodney Strong):

1. Longevity Wines

We began with a Longevity Wines, Vitners Select Pink Pinot Grigio, Livermore Valley 2019

Longevity, Vitners Select Pinot Grigio, Livermore Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

Longevity Vitners Select © Spaswinefood

Vitners Select "Pink" Pinot Grigio, Livermore Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

This Pinot Grigio is available at Livermore Valley's Longevity Wines, a family owned boutique winery, founded in 2003. Phil Long winemaker and owner is also president of the Association of African American Vintners. Longevity recently became an internationally distributed as a result of a partnership between Long and the Franzia family.

Vitners Select "Pink" Pinot Grigio, Livermore Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

The Pinot Grigio grape grows in range of colors hence this "Pink" Pinot Grigio is all natural. After the grapes are pressed, it is given just the among of contact to give its color and taste. It is a great aperitif and pairs well with Caesar salad, chicken, pork, turkey, and veal.

2. Troon Vineyard

Oregon's Troon Vineyard has a long history of sharing their wines at the wine media conference. I always look forward to discovering their latest wines. This year they shared one of their amber wines. This 64% Riesling, 27% Vermentino, and 9% Viognier

Troon Vineyard, Kubli Bench Amber, Applegate Valley 2020

Troon Vineyard, Kubli Bench Amber, Applegate Valley 2020 © Spaswinefood

Kubli Bench Amber, Applegate Valley 2020 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Troon Vineyard is focused on naturally crafted creative wines using a minimalist and biodynamic approach. They are CCOF Organic Certified, and Demeter Certified Biodynamic.

Kubli Bench Amber in the Glass © Spaswinefood

In the glass this amber wine is a gentle expression of amber wines (orange wines). It is part of what Simon J. Woolf would describe as the Amber Revolution. Woolf for the purpose of his recent book describes orange wine, as wine made from white grapes being treated as if it was red. That is, they were fermented together with their skins(and sometimes stems, too) for a period of multiple days, weeks or months. In this case there was three weeks of skin contact during fermentation. Besides this Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber wine being typical of wines with a sense of place, I would add that wine making style has a great influence as well.

3. Benton-Lane Winery

Benton-Lane, a family owned winery, produces estate grown wines from its vineyard, which uses sustainable, organic and biodynamic methods.

Benton-Lane, Chardonnay First Class, Willamette Valley 2019

Benton-Lane, Chardonnay First Class, Willamette Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

This chardonnay is a representative of Benton-Lane wine quality. Benton-Lane was founded by Steve and Carol Girard who established their first winery, Girard Winery in Napa Valley. Girard Winery produced sought-after wines for state dinners, gifts for heads of state, and Julia Child even selected the winery for one of her events. It was the Girard's desire to produce Pinot Noir, which resulted in a search for the perfect location for a Pinot Noir vineyard. This search led them to Oregon. Their vineyard has grown to 142 acres of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Wines from Benton-Lane Winery are now distributed in all fifty states and international markets including Canada, Puerto Rico, China, and Japan. Benton-Lane has been listed on Top 100 Wines of the Year many times.

4. Brooks Wine

Brooks Wine founded in 1998 is one of Willamette Valley's top wineries. Brooks is a biodynamic winery renowned for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Riesling.

Brooks Wine, Ara Riesling Willamette Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

Brooks Wine, along with other Oregon wineries have earned a spot on Wine & Spirits magazine’s prestigious annual Top 100 Wineries list for 2019. Wineries on the 2019 list were selected based on “their performance in the magazine’s two-step blind-tasting process and celebrated for their exceptional wines,” according to the magazine’s website. It has been recognized as an outstanding producer of Pinot Noir and Riesling.

5. Rodney Strong Vineyards

This Rodney Strong Rosé of Pinot Noir is from the Russian River Valley AVA. Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg produces wine from 12 estate vineyards in Alexander Valley, Russian River Valley, Chalk Hill and Sonoma Coast AVAs.

Rodney Strong, Rosé of Pinot Noir in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Rodney Strong, Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River, Sonoma County 2020

Rodney Strong, Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River, Sonoma County 2020 © Spaswinefood

Rodney Strong is a regular participant at the Wine Media Conference. The California winery dates back over 50 years to when Rodney Strong established Sonoma County's 13th bonded winery in 1959. Obviously, there have been many changes since then, which makes it so much fun to visit this winery.

Rodney Strong Vineyards © Spaswinefood

Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards, Healdsburg, Sonoma County © Spaswinefood

YES, we have visited Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg, California.

Tasting these three Oregon (Troon Vineyard, Benton-Lane, Brooks Wine) and two California (Longevity Wines, Rodney Strong) wines was very engaging experience. Our annual Wine Media Conference (or as some like to call it Wine Summer Camp) #WMC21 took place in Eugene, Oregon. This live blogging session was so much fun indeed. We invite you to join us in our travels in Oregon wine country and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Loving those roof top views with Capitello Wines

2021-09-22T14:58:00.000-07:00

Taking in the downtown Eugene skyline views from the rooftop of the Godon Hotel, while toasting with Capitello Wines, was the perfect ending to our South Willamette Valley vine-filled explorations. Our tour's last stop was the Fifth Street Public Market's newly opened Gordon Hotel. We were one of the first groups to ever toast on the rooftop where a new restaurant was slated to open later. Ray Walsh, winemaker and owner of Capitello Winery, was on hand to share a few of his wines. Yes, before our group began our journeys home there was a sparkling toast. Spaswinefood welcomed this opportunity to sample Capitello Wines on our Wine Media Conference #WMC21 South Willamette Valley post-conference excursion.

Taking in the Views with Capitello Wines © Spaswinefood

Capitello Wine in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Roof Top Views with Capitello Wines

When we arrived back in Eugene we concluded our wine country tour at the newly opened Gordon Hotel.

Gordon Hotel, Eugene © Spaswinefood

Just imagine we were one of the first groups to toast on the rooftop of the Gordon Hotel. Here Ray Walsh shared a few of his wines. Of course we began with a sparkling wine toast.

Toasting the Views, Gordon Hotel © Spaswinefood

Ray Walsh, Winemaker and Owner, Capitello Winery © Spaswinefood

There were a few more Capitello wines to sample.

Capitello Winery, Sauvignon Blanc Walnut Ridge Vineyard, Willamette Valley 2020

Sauvignon Blanc Walnut RidgeVineyard, Willamette Valley 2020 © Spaswinefood

Sauvignon Blanc Walnut Ridge Vineyard, Willamette Valley 2020 © Spaswinefood

Capitello Winery, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018

Capitello Winery, Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2018 © Spaswinefood

After the most delightful introduction to Capitello Wines and the Gordon Hotel, many of us would continue to explore Eugene's wine and food scene. You will find that in Eugene that there are a number of urban wineries, like Capitello to visit. The food scene is also exciting. Some of the dining suggestions include Marche in the market area, the eclectic Whiteaker Neighborhood favorites, such as Tacovore or Izakaya Meiji, or dining at George + Violet's or Tavern on Main in downtown Springfield.

Roof Top Views with Capitello Wine © Spaswinefood

It is hard to beat those roof top views with a glass of Capitello wine. We would highly recommend that you visit the 5th Street Rooftop at the Gordon Hotel. You might also checkout Capitello's flight offerings at their tasting room on Chamelton Street. Their most popular Oregon vs. New Zealand flight, allows you to compare Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs from both the Willamette Valley and winemaker Ray’s native New Zealand.

Capitello Wines

Ray Walsh | ray@capitellowines.com

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Instagram | @capitellowines

Twitter | @capitellowines

Gordon Hotel, Eugene © Spaswinefood

For sure we were treated to South Willamette Valley Wine Country at its best. Wine country visitors soon discover there is so much to do in and around Eugene. Special thanks to Jessica Thomas, General Manager of Sweet Cheeks Winery for her leadership in arranging this tour. We would also like to thank Sarah (Sally) Murdock (Oregon Wine Board) and Stephen Hoshau (Travel Lane County). For a complete list of South Willamette Valley wineries see Southern Willamette Valley Wineries Association. We invite you to join us in our Oregon wine country travels and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

A Summer Afternoon: Eugene © Spaswinefood

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King Estate Winery on a summer afternoon

2021-09-17T09:36:00.000-07:00

Our first winery stop after lunch was King Estate, known for its world-class Oregon Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, a diversity of other varietals, and single-vineyard wines. King Estate has 1,033 acres, with 470 acres under vine: 165 of Pinot Noir, nearly 300 of Pinot Gris, and other grapes. In addition to their estate vineyard they source from the finest vineyards in the Pacific Northwest - Willamette Valley, Umpqua Valley and Rogue Valley in Oregon; and Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley in Washington. Their approximately 50 vineyard partners grow grapes with distinct characteristics. This diverse geographical selection was carefully chosen to complement their estate wines. Spaswinefood welcomed the opportunity to return to King Estate Winery on our Wine Media Conference #WMC21 South Willamette Valley post-conference excursion.

Welcome to King Estate © Spaswinefood

Justin King, a third-generation family member, and his wine making team introduced us to some very fine King Estate wines. The winery founded in 1991 has grown, and now is one of Oregon’s largest and most successful wineries. It was a growing interest in wine and a simple search for hay that led his father Ed to discover a spectacular piece of land on the outskirts of Eugene. The 600-acre ranch property was a ranch however, Ed envisioned a beautiful vineyard. Ed King and his father, Ed King, Jr. (1921 – 2012), purchased the land and established King Estate Winery.

Time for King Estate Pinot Noir 7 Rows © Spaswinefood

Talking Wine, Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

As we took in the spectacular views, we enjoyed sumptuous small plates of cheese, charcuterie and other bites, prepared by their farm-to-table kitchen.

Wines Ready, Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Charcuterie and More, Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

Tasting King Estate Wines

We were introduced to the most tempting wines that afternoon.

King Estate © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines was their award winning 2016 King Estate Brut Cuvée.

King Estate Brut Cuvée 2016 © Spaswinefood

After the welcoming Cuvée we tasted a 2019 Sauvignon Blanc and a 2019 Chardonnay.

King Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019

King Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019 © Spaswinefood

King Estate Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2019

King Estate Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines was Pinot Gris, one of the wines, for which King Estate is best known. Indeed, there were Pinot Gris wines to taste, like a King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris 2019.

King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris 2019

King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris 2019 © Spaswinefood

A Closer Look: King Estate Domaine Pinot Gris 2019 © Spaswinefood

For sure there were wonderful Pinot Noir wines. I tasted the following King Estate Pinot Noir wines:

1. King Estate Inscription Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2019

King Estate Inscription Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2019 © Spaswinefood

2. King Estate Domaine Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2016

King Estate Domaine Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

3. King Estate Pinot Noir 7 Rows, Willamette Valley 2016

King Estate Pinot Noir 7 Rows, Willamette Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

King Estate Pinot Noir 7 Rows, Willamette Valley 2016 © Spaswinefood

These are awesome Pinot Noir wines. It was especially exciting to be introduced Justin's special project King Estate Pinot Noir 7 Rows, Willamette Valley 2016. King Estate Winery produces four wine series (King Estate, NxNW, Single Vineyard, and Innovation). The Domaine, Signature and Acrobat series include Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, with NxNW series including wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Riesling. Biodynamic farming is practiced at King Estate, with its estate grapes being sustainably farmed.

King Estate wines get great reviews. Just after our visit we not surprised to learn that King Estate Winery joins seven other Oregon wineries to earn a spot on Wine & Spirits magazine’s prestigious annual Top 100 Wineries list. This is the 14^th time in King Estate’s 30-year history that it has made the list. Wineries on the list are selected based on “their performance in the magazine’s two-step blind-tasting process and celebrated for their exceptional wines,” according to the magazine’s website. Among the wines that helped King Estate win this distinction were the 2019 King Estate Backbone Pinot Gris, earning 92 points; 2019 King Estate Paradox Pinot Gris, 91 points; and 2016 King Estate Brut Cuvée, 91 points. Six other wines garnered 90 points each.

“As I reflect on being named among the world’s best once again, I find myself filled with gratitude,” says King Estate CEO Ed King. “I am humbled by what we have accomplished, honored to work among the industry’s best, and energized to keep going and keep getting better. Despite everything the world threw at us this year, we stayed the course, stayed true to our purpose to make great Oregon wine and share it with the world. And the world noticed.”

Justin King Welcomes Us to King Estate © Spaswinefood

After the welcoming reception we toured the barrel room. It was just perfect to escape to the barrel room on a hot summer's day. Yes, we visited during the Oregon heat wave.

Touring King Estate © Spaswinefood

More on King Estate Winery

Situated in a beautiful setting in the South Willamette Valley the view from King Estate Winery is absolutely stunning.

King Estate Winery Vineyard © Spaswinefood

The King Estate Winery has an excellent restaurant, opened in 2006, that offers both inside and outside dining options. Spaswinefood first visited here during a Wine Bloggers Conference 2012 (#WBC12) pre-conference tour. Where possible the restaurant uses ingredients organically farmed on the estate and supplemented by products produced by local farmers and ranchers.

Dining at King Estate Winery, 2012 © Spaswinefood

In addition to visiting the winery we later got the opportunity to experience more King Estate hospitality at the Wine Bloggers Conference (#WBC12) Dinner. Yes, they catered an awesome diner (trended on twitter). If you plan to visit Oregon's South Willamette Valley Wine Country the King Estate Winery is a must visit.

No matter how many times you visit it was hard to leave a setting like the King Estate. King Estate Winery on a summer afternoon spells perfection.

Kings Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

We would highly recommend that you visit King Estate Winery. For a complete list of South Willamette Valley wineries see Southern Willamette Valley Wineries Association. We invite you to join us in our Oregon wine country travels and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

A Summer Afternoon: King Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

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Abruzzo Wines: Pecorino is the wine to get to know

2021-09-13T07:08:00.001-07:00

Abruzzo Wines were a highlight for me at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC21). The Charming Taste of Europe presented Wines of Abruzzo at one of its two Discovery Sessions at the conference. True Abruzzo is best known for Montepulciano (red grape), and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (white grape) however, lesser known varieties like Passeribna, Cococciola, and Pecorino are now getting the attention they deserve. The session I attended focused on Pecorino, a wine that I had encountered on a few occasions. Hence, it was exciting for me to learn about this grape variety. Pecorino is the wine to get to know!

Abruzzo Wines

Abruzzo Grape Varieties © Spaswinefood

Pecorino

This white grape variety, grows in the Abruzzo, Marche, Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio regions of Italy. While the exact birthplace of Pecorino is unknown it thrives in Abruzzo. Pecorino is a very old variety. Ampelographers believe that the grape is likely native to Marche (borders on Abruzzo on the north). It likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains, and later was domesticated for wine production. This once nearly extinct grapes has been under going a revival.

Pecorino grapes ripen early. The wine has been described as straw yellow, having good structure, high acidity, dry with mineral characteristics and a salty undertone. This medium body wine can have fruity aromas of apple, pear, candied orange, and tropical fruit, herbal aromas (sage, mint and thyme), and a floral bouquet (such as acacia, jasmine and linden flowers).

Pecorino © Spaswinefood

I am happy to report that this nearly extinct indigenous grape is getting the attention it deserves.

How Pecorino Got Its Name

Historically this grape has ties to local shepherds. In fact Pecora is Italian for sheep. There are interesting stories of how the grape got its name. It is thought that sheep nibbled on these grapes as the shepherds took care of their flock. Given that Pecorino is also a name for a cheese, one version of the story is - the shepherds compensated the vineyard owners for the grapes that the sheep ate with Pecorino cheese. Yes, Pecorino is a type of cheese. Another explanation is the shape of the grape bunches resembles a sheep's head.

One can imagine shepherds tending to the sheep and walking them by the vineyards.

Abruzzo Wines

The story of how the grape got its name is intriguing however, what is interesting to me is the overall positive reaction this wine got from the attendees. Many of us immediately fell in love with the wines shared. It appears that Pecorino was forgotten until recently when it was revived by local winemakers. For sure Abruzzo's Pecorino Wines are amongst Italy’s hidden gems.

Abruzzo Wines

Where is Abruzzo?

Wine lovers will soon discover that Abruzzo, one of the oldest wine regions, is a mountainous coastal region on the Adriatic Sea. It is bordered by Molise to south, Marche to the north and Lazio to the west. This wine region is well worth a scenic two hour drive from Rome.

Abruzzo Wine Region, Italy © Spaswinefood

Abruzzo is a fascinating wine region. The Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines (Consorzio di Tutela dei Vini d’Abruzzo) was established in 2002. It protects wines from Controlled Designation of Origin, such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Abruzzo DOC, Villamagna DOC and, it also protects wines with a Typical Geographical Indication. It is a unique region in Europe. Abruzzo has more than 30% of the territory protected by four parks (three national and one regional), and a dozen nature reserves and protected areas.

The Charming Taste of Europe © Spaswinefood

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines

Abruzzo viticulture in the last decades has made a leap forward in terms of qualitative growth. This is due to a new generation of producers constant and pervasive work, focused on the enhancement of its most important indigenous grape varieties, like Pecorino. This clearly shows in the Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines I tasted.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines © Spaswinefood

Abruzzo Wines

Tasting Abruzzo's Pecorino Wines

We tasted the following four Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines:

1. Barone di Valforti, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

Barone di Valforti, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino © Spaswinefood

US Importer: More Than Grapes LLC

2. Torre Dei Beati, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

Torre Dei Beati, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino © Spaswinefood

US Importer: Casa Bruno Wines

3. Agricosimo Pecorino Organic, Abruzzo DOC

Agricosimo Pecorino Organic, Abruzzo DOC © Spaswinefood

US Importer: Prosapore LLC

4. La Carine del Colle Aimé, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore 2020

La Carine del Colle Aimé, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore 2020 Abruzzo Wines

What delight it was to taste these Abruzzo DOC Pecorino wines. Abruzzo's Pecorino wines were a big hit at our session.

Tasting Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Wines © Spaswinefood

This session on Pecorino certainly inspired me and others at the session to make plans to visit Abruzzo. I was very pleased that this session was given at the 2021 Wine Media Conference (#WMC2021). Indeed Pecorino is the wine to get to know! You can connect with the Consorzio on Instagram and Facebook! I invite you to join me in my future travels in Italy and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

The Charming Taste of Europe © Spaswinefood

Abruzzo Session #WMC21© Spaswinefood

Abruzzo Wines

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NOTE: Abruzzo Wines is part of the mission of The Charming Taste of Europe, co-funded by the European Union. Its promotional activities are focused on increasing the awareness of the merits and quality standards of select European wines and fresh fruits in the competitive markets of the United States of America and Canada. The project includes promoting the Consortium for the Protection of Wines of Abruzzo. These superb high quality Italian wines are produced with the artistry of agricultural traditions. Hence this campaign will awaken the senses and a new culinary consciousness by connecting food, cultures, and territories by bringing European charm into the lives of many.

Oregon's Ribbon Ridge AVA is home to Utopia Wines

2021-09-11T09:31:00.000-07:00

Ribbon Ridge's Utopia Vineyard & Winery grow and produce premium Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other varietals. For this winery however, it is not only about producing good wine, but also building a community, which fosters knowledge and appreciation of wine. We were delighted to visit this Ribbon Ridge winery during our August Wine Media pre-conference tour #WMC21. Dan Warnshuis hosted our pre-conference tour of the Ribbon Ridge AVA.

Utopia Estate Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge AVA © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Utopia © Spaswinefood

Utopia is located in that extra special Ribbon Ridge American Viticultural Area (AVA). This sub-AVA within the Willamette Valley was established July 1, 2005. Since then Oregon's smallest AVA has become one of the most prestigious wine growing regions in the world. Ribbon Ridge, 3.5-mile long by 1.75-mile wide is a ridge that extends from the Chehalem Mountains. This AVA rises from the Chehalem Valley floor, giving it an island-like appearance. Here the growing conditions allow longer, cooler growing seasons, making it ideal for delicate varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay that are grown at Utopia. Ribbon Ridge’s island-like characteristics, and its proximity to surrounding landmasses, help shield and protect this viticultural area from the extremes, affecting other agricultural microclimates in the Willamette Valley. During our visit to Utopia we tasted their Pinot Noir Blanc, Pinot Noir (2017, 2015, and 2013), Pinot and Chardonnay.

Wine Ready, Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Utopia Wines

We were welcomed with a glass of Pinot Noir Blanc Bliss 2018.

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir Blanc Bliss, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2018

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir Blanc Bliss, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2018 © Spaswinefood

This wine was so refreshing and was so welcomed on this hot August afternoon. Next a Utopia Chardonnay was served.

Utopia Vineyard, Chardonnay, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015

Utopia Vineyard, Chardonnay, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015 © Spaswinefood

The remaining wines were three Estate Pinot Noir wines and a Reserve Pinot Noir.

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2013, 2015 & 2017

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2013, 2015 & 2017 © Spaswinefood

Utopia Vineyard, Eden Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015

Utopia Vineyard, Eden Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015 © Spaswinefood

Utopia's wines, especially their Pinot Noir wines, are fantastic. This is not surprising given Ribbon Ridge, is one of the most decorated AVA's, with 90+ scores according to Wine Advocate. For example in 1) 2017, 88% of the Ribbon Ridge wines were rated 90+ (89% of those were for Pinot Noir), and 2) 2018, Ribbon Ridge continued to net the highest scores of all AVAs as rated by the Wine Advocate (87% of the wines submitted receiving 90+ scores). Located in a region noted for its award wining wines perhaps it is no surprise that Utopia Wines is on that list. Clearly, we were motivated to checkout Ribbon Ridge on a recent Wine Media pre-conference tour #WMC21.

Besides tasting those awesome wines there was sushi to enjoy!

Sushi Time, Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

A vineyard visit was definitely in order after wine and sushi.

Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Dan's Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Vineyard visits always lead to great discussions, even on a hot afternoon. Besides, how could we not checkout the grapes?

August Grapes, Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

A Day Before

We did mange to do a brief visit to Utopia the day before. After a welcoming glass of wine at Domaine Divio, along the way to dinner, we stopped at Utopia Estate for a brief tour with owner Dan Warnshuis (winemaker, vineyard manager, and of course a key leader of the Ribbon Ridge AVA). Indeed having Dan as our host for our #WMC 21 pre-conference tour was awesome!

Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Next, it was onto a Ribbon Ridge AVA hosted Winemaker Dinner at the Allison Inn. This included a 3-course meal co-hosted by Taste Newberg and The Allison Inn & Spa, with wines donated by the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The wine pairings were Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Utopia Vineyard wines were amongst the wines served at dinner.

Tasting Ribbon Ridge Chardonnays © Spaswinefood

Utopia Vineyard, Chardonnay, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2017

Utopia Vineyard, Chardonnay, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2017 © Spaswinefood

Domaine Divio, Chardonnay Clos Gallia 2018

Domaine Divio, Chardonnay Clos Gallia 2017 © Spaswinefood

Time for Pinot Noir

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA 2015 © Spaswinefood

Domaine Divio, Estate Pinot Noir Clos Gallia 2018

Domaine Divio, Estate Pinot Noir Clos Gallia 2018 © Spaswinefood

Tasting wines from Domaine Divio and Utopia Vineyard paired with food illustrated the excellent collaboration within the Ribbon Ridge wine community.

Utopia's Dan Warnshuis © Spaswinefood

Put Utopia Vineyard & Winery, on your must visit list of wineries in the Willamette Valley. It is a very special place to experience passion for Ribbon Ridge wines. Beyond doing a regular tasting their Utopian Tasting Society offers wine enthusiasts a three level approach to exploring their wines. For those who want a wine country retreat checkout the option of staying in their log cabin. During a Willamette Valley Wine Country visit you will find other Ribbon Ridge wineries to visit in the Newberg area. Oregon is now the third largest wine producer in the country. Oregon has four wine country regions, with 17 appellations and over 450 wineries. The largest wine region is the Willamette Valley, which consists of six appellations. I invite you to join me in my travels in Oregon and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Newberg, Oregon

Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Touring Utopia Vineyard © Spaswinefood

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Falling in love with the sweet side of Bordeaux

2021-09-08T14:53:00.004-07:00

When you think of Bordeaux you are most likely to think of Bordeaux's spectacular red wines, or maybe some of its white wines however, Bordeaux has a sweet side. While attending the 2021 Wine Media Conference #WMC21 I attended a Discovery Session on the Sweet Wines of Bordeaux. I soon fell in love with the sweet side of Bordeaux.

Bordeaux, France

The session was given by Union Des Vines Doux De Bordeaux. The Union Des Vins Doux de Bordeaux is an association of four organizations:

ODG des Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieurs
ODG des Premières Côtes de Bordeaux et Cadillac
ODG des Liquoreux de Bordeaux
ODG des Côtes de Bordeaux Saint Macaire

Tasting Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

The Union ensures the protection of official logos identifying the quality and origin of the grapes and the wines. It includes eight Appellations, eight interpretations of wines, which they describe as sensual, fruity and voluptuous for all occasions and tastes!

Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

A Sweet Bordeaux Afternoon at #WMC21

Indeed for me tasting four sweet Bordeaux wines was a perfect afternoon. The following suggestions were made for serving these wines:

Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

Next, four wines were introduced.

Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

During the tasting we checked out some foods to pair with each wine.

The four wines were:

1. Chateau La Hargue, Bordeaux Moelleux Sweet 2019

Chateau La Hargue, Bordeaux Moelleux Sweet 2019

Produced from Semillion, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris grapes this is an off-dry wine with a nice balance between sugar and acidity. It has hints of tree fruits, honey and minerals that make it enticing. This wine sells for around $11, a fabulous Price Quality Ratio (PQR).

Available in the US at:

• Medallion Global, Texas

• Baystate Wine & Spirits Massachussets/Rhodes Island/New Hampshire.

• Terreaneo Merchants in Illinois /New York /and New Jersey, Laville Imports

2. Chateau des Arroucats, AOC Saint Croix-du-Mont Sweet 2017

Chateau des Arroucats, AOC Saint Croix-du-Mont Sweet 2017 © Spaswinefood

Produced from 92% Semillion, and 8% Sauvignon grapes this wine is medium gold in color. It is aromatic with tropical-fruit flavors of mango, pineapple, with hits of apple, pear, marmalade, and blossom. This medium-bodied Bordeaux has a medium to long finish, and has been described as having a creamy texture. It paired well with the blue cheese and dried apricots. selling around $15 a bottle this another a fabulous Price Quality Ratio (PQR).

Available in the US at: Vintage Wine Marketing

3. Chateau du Cros, AOC Loupiac 2016

Chateau du Cros, AOC Loupiac 2016 © Spaswinefood

This wine is produced from 90% Semillon, with 5% Sauvignon Gris and % Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Deep gold in color, this full-bodied sweet Bordeaux on the nose has intense aromas of apricot, pineapple, orange marmalade, mango, apple, with hints of lychee and white peach. On the palate these flavors are complex with a long finish. Costing around $22 this wine has the richness of Sauternes but it costs a fraction of the price.

Available in the US at:

Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits, 4339 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington DC 2008

Contacts : Michaël Sands, Jennifer Sanders (WWW.calvertwoodley.com)

4. Chateau La Rame, Cadillac Semi-Sweet 2017

Chateau La Rame, Cadillac Semi-Sweet 2017 © Spaswinefood

This wine is produced from 90% Semillion and 10% Sauvignon grapes. It has a perfect Golden Color, with inviting aromas, and citrus and exotic fruits, and hints of miner laity with nice acidity on the palate. Even at $30 bottle, the most expensive of the four we tasted, this is a good PQR. It is a wine that will age well. I would love to taste this wine after further aging.

Available in the US at:

Rosenthal Wine Merchant 56-43 58 Th St. Queens NY 11378, www.madrose.com

I tasted each of the above wines with four food pairing options.

Food Pairing for Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

Pairings, Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

These above food pairing were but an intro to the range of possibilities. There are many exciting food pairings (tapas, plates, cheeses, and desserts) for Sweet Bordeaux wines. The Union Des Vines Doux De Bordeaux website Sweet Bordeaux is a must.

Pairings with Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

I loved discovering the sweet side of Bordeaux. It is so easy to fall in love with the sweet side of Bordeaux. If you have not yet to discover Sweet Bordeaux Wines now is the perfect time to explore. Founded in 2009 by the Union des Grands Vin Liquoreux de Bordeaux, Sweet Bordeaux is a brand of sweet and dessert white wines, from eight Protected Designations of Origin (DOCs) vineyards within the Bordeaux region. The slow, painstaking harvesting process and limited production makes Sweet Bordeaux especially rare and selective white wines. Besides their awesome website you can also connect with them on Instagram and Facebook. I invite you to join me in my travels in Oregon and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon

August 2021

Oregon

Discovery Session: Sweet Wines of Bordeaux © Spaswinefood

Sweet Wines of Bordeaux, WMC21 © Spaswinefood

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Note: The above session that I attended was one of Charming Taste of Europe's two Discovery Sessions at the 2021 Wine Media Conference. The Union of Sweet Bordeaux Wines is part of the mission of The Charming taste of Europe, co-funded by the European Union, to increase awareness of the merits and quality standards of select European wines and fresh fruits in the competitive markets of the United States of America and Canada. The project is promoted by the the Union of Sweet Bordeaux Wines. These French golden wines are produced with the artistry of agricultural traditions. Their campaign hopes to awaken the senses and a new culinary consciousness by connecting food, cultures, and territories and will undoubtedly bring European charm into the lives of many.

Welcome to the Ribbon Ridge AVA : Oregon's wine island

2021-09-04T14:36:00.000-07:00

Some wine regions are extra special, the Ribbon Ridge American Viticultural Area (AVA), a sub-AVA within the Willamette Valley, established July 1, 2005, is indeed special. Oregon's smallest AVA, with only 500 planted acres, has become one of the most prestigious wine growing regions in the world. Ribbon Ridge, 3.5-mile long by 1.75-mile wide is a ridge that extends from the Chehalem Mountains. This AVA rises from the Chehalem Valley floor, giving it an island-like appearance. Here the growing conditions allow longer, cooler growing seasons, making it ideal for delicate varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Ribbon Ridge’s island-like characteristics, and its proximity of surrounding landmasses, help shield and protect this viticultural area from the extremes, which affect the other agricultural microclimates in the Willamette Valley.

Welcome to Ribbon Ridge, Oregon © Spaswinefood

This post is the first in a series of Spaswinefood posts on the Ribbon Ridge, one of the most decorated AVA's, with 90+ scores according to Wine Advocate. For example in 1) 2017, 88% of the Ribbon Ridge wines were rated 90+ (89% of those were for Pinot Noir), and 2) 2018, Ribbon Ridge continued to net the highest scores of all AVAs as rated by the Wine Advocate (87% of the wines submitted receiving 90+ scores). Clearly, this motivated us to checkout Ribbon Ridge on a recent Wine Media pre-conference tour #WMC21.

Welcome to Ribbon Ridge's AVA

After arriving in Newberg and checking into our hotel, we departed for a driving tour of the Ribbon Ridge AVA to view its geography and get an overview of the area. We stopped at Domaine Divio Winery for a quick wine tasting with the winemaker, before continuing onto Utopia for a quick tour.

Domaine Divio

Domaine Divio's philosophy is to makes wines with minimal intervention. There is a strong Burgundian influence on the wines produced, given Bruno Corneaux, proprietor and winemaker is a 4th generation Burgundy producer.

Bruno Corneaux, Domaine Divio © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Domaine Divio © Spawinefood

While working on his Master’s Degree in Enology & Viticulture Bruno met his Domaine Divio partner André Weil. In 2012 André and Bruno found the best spot in the Willamette Valley to create a wine estate, It was in 2014 that they established the Clos Gallia Estate on Ribbon Ridge.

We were treated to a tasting of Domaine Divio, Passetoutgrain 2020.

Domaine Divio in the Glass © Spaswinefood

Domaine Divio, Passetoutgrain, Willamette Valley 2020

Domaine Divio, Passetoutgrain, Willamette Valley 2020 © Spaswinefood

After a welcomed tasting at Domaine Divio, along the way to the Allison for dinner, we also stopped at Utopia Estate Vineyard for a brief tour.

Utopia Estate Vineyard

Utopia Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge with Dan Warnshuis © Spaswinefood

Utopia's hands-on owner Dan Warnshuis is, not only winemaker and vineyard manage, but also a key leader of the Ribbon Ridge AVA. We were most fortunately that Dan was our host for the pre-conference tour.

Dan Warnshuis, Utopia © Spaswinefood

Given that next day we would return for a wine tasting we did a brief tour of the winery.

Touring Ribbon Ridge with Dan Warnshuis © Spaswinefood

Winemaker Dinner at the Allison Inn

Next, is was onto a Winemaker's Dinner at the Allison Inn. Dinner included a 3-course meal co-hosted by Taste Newberg and The Allison Inn & Spa. The wines were donated by Ribbon Ridge AVA's Divio and Utopia wineries. The wine pairings were Chardonnay, Pinot Noir with entrée, and Riesling with dessert.

Amongst the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines served at dinner were the following:

Tasting Ribbon Ridge Chardonnays © Spaswinefood

Time for Chardonnay

Utopia Vineyard, Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge AVA 2017 © Spaswinefood

Domaine Divio, Chardonnay Clos Gallia 2017 © Spaswinefood

Time for Pinot Noir

Utopia Vineyard, Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge AVA 2017 © Spaswinefood

Domaine Divio, Estate Pinot Noir Clos Gallia 2018 © Spaswinefood

It was a fabulous dinner with great wines.

Welcome to Ribbon Ridge Wineries

1. Ribbon Ridge Winery

Next morning, our vine-filled day, began with a visit to the Ribbon Ridge Winery. Here we were introduced to Ribbon Ridge and Ridgecrest Estate wines (Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner and Gamay Noir). These estate-grown wines are reflective of the Ribbon Ridge’s reputation as one of the worlds truly special wine regions.

Ribbon Ridge © Spaswinefood

It was great meeting there to hear the story of the first vines planted on Ribbon Ridge.

Ribbon Ridge Vineyard © Spaswinefood.

This vineyard is home to the oldest vines in the AVA.

A Close Look at Ribbon Ridge Vines © Spaswinefood

It was an awesome setting for an introduction to the AVA’s history by Harry Peterson-Nedry. Hearing this history, while we sipped Ridgecrest and Ribbon Ridge wines, was such a delight.

History & Wine Tasting, Ribbon Ridge © Spaswinefood

Hearing about the history of the Ribbon Ridge AVA certainly set the stage for our pre-conference wine country explorations.

Ribbon Ridge & Ridgecrest Estate Wines © Spaswinefood

What a perfect way to begin our wine country day!

2. Trisaetum Estate Vineyard and Winery

Our next stop was Trisaetum Estate Vineyard and Winery, owned since 2003 by James and Andrea Frey.

Trisaetum Estate Vineyard and Winery © Spaswinefood

Trisaetum Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

James A Frey, winemaker and artist, and Trisaetum staff did a side by side tasting of wines from their Ribbon Ridge and Coastal vineyards. We also enjoyed appetizers specially designed to pair with the wines we tasted.

Tasting Trisaetum Wines © Spaswinefood

Trisaetum Sparkling Wine © Spaswinefood

Charcuterie with Trisaetum Sparkling Wine © Spaswinefood

Before leaving I could not resist taking a peek at the estate vineyard.

Trisaetum Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

3. Utopia Estate Vineyard

We headed onto our third stop at Utopia Estate Vineyard.

Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Here we enjoyed sushi with a selection of Utopia wines.

Ready for Wine, Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Sushi Time, Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

We would conclude our winery visit with a quick stop in the vineyard.

Utopia Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

4. Eminent Domaine

We would next head up to the top of Ribbon Ridge to Eminent Domaine.

Welcome to Eminent Domaine © Spaswinefood

Not only are the wines good here but the views from Eminent Domaine are spectacular.

Eminent Domaine © Spaswinefood

This winery is the perfect setting to take in views from the ridge.

Taking in the Views, Eminent Domaine © Spaswinefood

Visiting Eminent Domaine © Spaswinefood

While tasting wines, enjoying those amazing vistas overlooking Ribbon Ridge AVA, we were treated awesome pizza prepared by David at Eminent Domaine’s outdoor kitchen.

Pizza with David, Eminent Domaine © Spaswinefood

5. Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery

Next, we headed a short distance down the hill to Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery for a dessert course paired with Styring wines to top off our day. Styring Estate promises Getting to Styring involves taking the road less traveled. Beautiful fields of green, rolling hills, and these wonderful little paths that make you feel you are going on a mini adventure instead of just tasting wine. It was indeed that at the end of a hot summer's day.

Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery © Spaswinefood

While it was a hot day and so we loved the shade of the huge maple tree.

Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery © Spaswinefood

There at day's end we were treated to wines and dessert pairings.

A Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery Welcome © Spaswinefood

Vine Time, Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery © Spaswinefood

We were royally treated to Ribbon Ridge hospitality at day's end.

Day's End, Styring Estate Vineyard and Winery © Spaswinefood

Dessert and wine at Styring was the perfect ending of a Ribbon Ridge Wine Country Day. After a vine-filled day exploring Ribbon Ridge AVA we returned to our hotel to rest before traveling onto Eugene next day for #WMC2021.

Special thanks to Dan Warnshuis and his Ribbon Ridge colleagues for organizing our visit. Given Ribbon Ridge AVA unique island-like growing conditions we would highly recommend visiting the above wineries. Here you will discover some of Oregon's best wines. We invite you to join us in our travels in Oregon and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Newberg, Oregon

Ribbon Ridge AVA

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South Willamette Valley Wine Country at its best

2021-08-14T09:30:00.002-07:00

Returning to Oregon meant we could continue our vine-filled explorations of the Willamette Valley, the state’s leading wine region. The valley is home to two-thirds of the state’s wineries and vineyards. Fortunately while in Eugene for a Wine Media Conference #WMC21 we participated in a South Willamette Valley post-conference excursion. We were picked up at our hotel and finished the same day at Eugene's Fifth Street Public Market. Along the way we ate lunch, did multiple wine tastings, and learnt about the Cascades Raptor Center. Above all, we experienced South Willamette Valley Wine Country at its best.

South Willamette Valley Wine Country © Spaswinefood

Our wine country experience began with a Meet and Greet Gathering in the hotel lobby. We did a toast and enjoyed some donuts before boarding the bus waiting outside. Yes, there were Donuts too. We began our adventure in Eugene by checking out the murals, new track arena, rose garden, and continued with exploring the best of wine country. The tour concluded at the Gordon Hotel, with a 7th floor view of Eugene.

Around Eugene

After departing the Valley River Inn we viewed some of art murals, which are an initiative of the City of Eugene Cultural Services' Public Art Program. The murals are part of their 20x21 Mural Project to create 20 or more world-class outdoor murals in Eugene before the 2022 IAAF World Championships.

Mural by Ila Rose, Eugene © Spaswinefood

Mural by Hua Tunan, Eugene © Spaswinefood

Next, we were off to one of the city's parks to view their collection of roses. What wine lover would not enjoy a brief walk through the Owen Rose Garden?

Owen Rose Garden, Eugene © Spaswinefood

Our tour continued with a drive past the newly reimagined Hayward Field at the University of Oregon.

Taking a Peak, Hayward Field, University of Oregon © Spaswinefood

This world class track and field facility is why Eugene is called “Track Town USA”.

Let's Tour South Willamette Valley Wine Country

The South Willamette is home to those wineries and vineyards that surround Eugene. We were introduced to three of those wineries over lunch.

1. Lunch at the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge

After touring Eugene the bus continue on to the Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge located in Cottage Grove, Oregon.

Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge, Cottage Grove, Oregon © Spaswinefood

Indeed, we ate a most delightful lunch, paired with wines from Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon, and Iris Vineyards, on the only remaining covered railroad bridge west of the Mississippi. The Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge was constructed in 1925, moved and restored in 2011. What a stunning setting for lunch!

Ready for Lunch, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

Not only was it the most fabulous lunch with great wines, but also the hospitality was amazing!

Lunch, Chambers Railroad Covered Bridge © Spaswinefood

Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon and Iris Vineyards Winemakers © Spaswinefood

After being spoiled at lunch our wine country explorations continued.

Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

2. King Estate Winery

Our first winery stop after lunch was King Estate, the largest Biodynamic® vineyard in North America. Justin King, a third-generation family member, and his wine making team introduced us to some very fine Willamette Valley wines.

Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

We began with a Pinot Gris for which King Estate is best known.

Wines Ready, Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

As we took in the spectacular views, we enjoyed sumptuous small plates of cheese and charcuterie and other bites, prepared by their farm-to-table kitchen.

Charcuterie and More, Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

It was hard to leave a setting like the King Estate.

Kings Estate Winery © Spaswinefood

3. Sweet Cheeks Winery

On the way back to Eugene, we visited Sweet Cheeks Winery, a family winery. We were happy to discover the story behind this South Willamette Valley gem. Dan Smith planted a vineyard on a rolling hillside in Crow, Oregon in 1978. He christened the vineyard Sweet Cheeks based on its shape. While he dreamed of a winery, he continued to supply Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Riesling grapes to local wineries. In 2003 when a building in Junction City came up for demolition he took a chance and relocated it atop the vineyard. Thanksgiving of 2005 the tasting room opened, marking the beginning of Sweet Cheeks Winery & Vineyard.

Vineyards, Sweet Cheeks Winery © Spaswinefood

Our visit included a short walk in the vineyard, and learning how raptors are used in a vineyard setting (Cascades Raptor Center). After introduction to the Sweet Cheeks hills we enjoyed a wine tasting on the patio by led Jessica Thomas, granddaughter of the late Founder, Dan Smith.

Sweet Cheeks Winery © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting, Sweet Cheeks Winery © Spaswinefood

If you want a winery to take in those South Willamette Wine Country views this is the place.

South Willamette Wine Country, Sweet Cheeks Winery © Spaswinefood

After a most delightful visit to Sweet Cheeks Winery we returned to Eugene.

Eugene Continued

When we arrived back in Eugene we concluded our tour at the Fifth Street Public Market's newly opened Gordon Hotel.

Gordon Hotel, Eugene © Spaswinefood

We were one of the first groups to ever toast on the rooftop where a new restaurant is slated to open later this summer. Here we meet up with Capitello Winery's winemaker and owner, Ray Walsh who shared a few of his wines before the group went off into the night. We began with a sparkling wine toast.

Toasting the Views, Gordon Hotel © Spaswinefood

Ray Walsh, Winemaker and Owner, Capitello Winery © Spaswinefood

Capitello Winery, 2018 Pinot Noir © Spaswinefood

Many of us would continue to explore Eugene's wine and food scene. You will find that here are a number of urban wineries to visit. Some of the dining suggestions included Marche in the market area, the eclectic Whiteaker Neighborhood favorites, such as Tacovore or Izakaya Meiji, or dining at George + Violet's or Tavern on Main in downtown Springfield.

For sure we were treated to South Willamette Valley Wine Country at its best. Right at the top of South Willamette Valley wineries to visit includes Bluebird Hill Cellars, Brigadoon, Iris Vineyards, King Estate, and Sweet Cheeks Winery. Also, do not forget to checkout Capitello Winery, one of Eugene's urban tasting rooms. Wine country visitors soon discover there is so much to do in around Eugene. If time permits checkout the Cascades Raptor Center. Special thanks to Jessica Thomas, General Manager of Sweet Cheeks Winery for her leadership in arranging this tour. We would also like to thank Sarah (Sally) Murdock (Oregon Wine Board) and Stephen Hoshau (Travel Lane County). We invite you to join us in our travels in Oregon Wine Country and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.

Sharon & John

August 2021

Eugene, Oregon

Mural by Hua Tunan, View 2 © Spaswinefood

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PLEASE fill my wine glass with Finger Lakes Riesling

2021-07-21T07:42:00.004-07:00

Returning to New York's Finger Lakes was a special treat. We were fortunate to spend both memorial day weekend and a late June weekend in the Finger Lakes Wine Country. Here's why Finger Lakes Wine Country is so special. This wine region has become well known for its world class Riesling. Finger Lakes Riesling wines come in different styles (still, sparkling and ice wine), with a range in sweetness levels (from sweet to dry). There is a Finger Lakes Riesling for every palate. I still vividly remember when Spaswinefood first visited the Finger Lakes in Upstate New York in August 2015. Because I discovered so many good things about the wine region, I just had to return to the Finger Lakes. Once you put some Finger Lakes Riesling in your wine glass it is hard to resist.

Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area)
The Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) is centered around eleven glacial lakes, with the majority of vineyards near Canandaigua Lake, Cayuga Lake, Keuka Lake and Seneca Lake.

Finger Lakes AVA (American Viticultural Area) © Spaswinefood

Each of these areas have been described as having unique viticultural characteristics, which result in wines with distinct flavor profiles. In fact the Cayuga and Seneca Lake areas have been recognized as distinct enough to have their own AVA's.

Fox Run Vineyards, Seneca Lake © Spaswinefood

This east coast wine region has often been compared to Germany's Rhine region because of the similarity in growing conditions. The Finger Lakes AVA , established in 1982, is home to over 100 wineries. Besides Riesling, the Finger Lakes also produces Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as several French-American and native varieties. During my Finger Lakes visits my focus has been on sampling Riesling wines from Cayuga Lake, Seneca Lake and Keuka Lake. Let's take a look.

Cayuga Lake Wine Trail
A vino limo ride across Cayuga Lake on a perfect summer afternoon is hard to beat. Perhaps it is not surprising to discover water taxis on this lake given that Cayuga means "boat landing". Yes, our Cayuga Lake Wine Trail adventure in 2015 was packed with wine discoveries.

Vino Limo, Cayuga Lake, NY © Spaswinefood

Cayuga Lake AVA was established in 1988, as a sub-region within the Finger Lakes AVA. The first Cayuga Lake wineries had their beginnings in late 1970's and early1980's. The number of wineries has now grown to 23 wineries. Most of the wineries are found on the west side of the lake, which provide more favorable growing conditions. In addition to the grape varities mentioned earlier you will also find grapes, such the Cayuga grape, The Cayuga grape was bred specifically for this region by Cornell University.

While on the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail in 2015 we visited Thirsty Owl Wine Company where we tasted wines from eight members (Toro Run Winery, Cayuga Ridge Estate Winery, Homer Winery, Lucas Vineyards, Bellwether Hard Cider and Wine Cellars, Americana Vineyards and Six Mile Creek Vineyard). Later at the Goose Watch Winery in Romulus, under a tent in the vineyard, eight member wineries offered select tastings (Treleaven by King Ferry Winery, Long Point Winery, Montezuma Winery & Hidden Marsh Distillery, Swedish Hill Vineyard, Varick Winery & Vineyard Vineyard, Knapp Winery and Buttonwood Grove Winery). Our final stop was at Knapp Winery where a team of chefs (Chef John McNabb, Knapp Vineyard Restaurant, Chef Lindsay, Crystal Lake Café at Americana Vineyards and Chef Scott, The Bistro at Thirsty Owl Wine Co.) prepared the most amazing dinner for our group.

Thirsty Owl Wine Company, 2021 © Spaswinefood

Indeed when I returned this summer I had to enjoy a Thirsty Owl Riesling. How could I not?

Thirsty Owl Wine Company, Riesling 2019 © Spaswinefood

And YES, a Goose Watch Riesling, and others too! We also ate lunch twice at Knapp's Vineyard Restaurant.

Knapp's Vineyard Restaurant, 2021 © Spaswinefood

Seneca Lake Wine Trail
Wine making in the Seneca Lake area dates back to when the Seneca Lake Grape Wine Company opened a winery in 1866. With the arrival of Prohibition in 1919 wine making in this area came to a halt. Modern wine making however, began in the 1970's when two wineries were established by pioneers, Charles Fournier and Hermann Wiemer. There are now 40 wineries in the Seneca Lake AVA, with over 30 wineries making up what is known as the Seneca Wine Trail.

Through the Wine Glass © Spaswinefood

Now a few highlights from our recent excursion this summer:

1. Anthony Road Wine Company

During our first visit to Anthony Road Wine Company we toured the vineyard, the winery and did a wine tasting.

Anthony Road Vineyard, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

John Martini, Anthony Road Vineyard © Spaswinefood

After a tour of the vineyard and winery we returned to the veranda for a wine tasting.

Anthony Road Winery, Finger Lakes, NY © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting at Anthony Road, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Included in the tasting was a side by side tasting of two Rieslings produced in two different styles. That is, fermented with without skin contact and with some skin contact (skin fermented).

Anthony Road, Side by Side Tasting of Riesling © Spaswinefood

Fortunately this summer was a good time to return. For sure included in the wine flights that I tasted was a lineup of Riesling wines.

Anthony Road, The Sibling Rivalry Flight © Spaswinefood

Anthony Road, The Sibling Rivalry Flight © Spaswinefood

Amongst the wines I tasted were Rieslings produced in different styles (without skin contact and with some skin contact (skin fermented)).

2. Fox Run Vineyards

Fox Run was on our list for a return visit. We did lunch and ordered a number of wine flights. Indeed their Riesling wines was on my tasting list.

Time for Fox Run Vineyards Riesling © Spaswinefood

Fox Run Vineyards, Riesling Flight © Spaswinefood

This flight was a great overview of Riesling styles, with the 2016 illustrating unique terroir. The focus of our Fox Run Vineyards 2015 visit was on terroir. That time we visited the vineyard and the winery, followed by an excellent food and wine pairing.

Fox Run Vineyards, 2015 © Spaswinefood

While touring their vineyard in 2015 we were introduced to history and growing conditions at Fox Run.
We also chatted with the winemaker.

Winery Conversations, Fox Run Vineyards © Spaswinefood

Peter Bell, Winemaker, Fox Run Vineyards, 2015 © Spaswinefood

It was such a delight to have winemaker Peter Bell and Chef Bud Holland present during the food and wine pairing.

Fox Run Vineyards, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Food & Wine Pairing Fox Run Vineyards, 2015 © Spaswinefood

 It was an awesome food and wine pairing, with a great introduction to their Riesling wines grown in different terroir. In particular, looking at the effect of different terroirs on 2011 and 2012 vintages was an enlightining activity.

Fox Run Vineyards, 2015 © Spaswinefood

Keuka Lake Wine Trail
Nothing compares to an escape to wine country for a mystery dinner hosted local Keuka Lake wineries. I still remember that August 2015 evening when the Keuka Lake Wine Trail was celebrating its 30th Anniversary. Our outing took place at Manor House. All eight Keuka Lake Wine Trail members (Barrington Cellars, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars, Heron Hill Winery, Hunt Country Vineyards, Keuka Spring Vineyards, McGregor Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, and Vineyard View Winery) participated in the event. The evening began with tasting a Riesling wine from each of the wineries.

Keuka Lake Riesling 1st Flight, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Keuka Lake Riesling 2nd Flight, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

Dinner was served on the Manor House veranda, with stunning views of Keuka Lake. Celebrity Chef Brud Holland used locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to prepare dinner. There at Manor House overlooking Keuka Lake this Finger Lakes wine and food event perfectly captured the essence of this beautiful wine country setting. Even though we would get to taste other wines over dinner, for me it was the Riesling wines that captured my attention.

During this summer's visit we stopped by Dr. Frank's.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Keuka Lake © Spaswinefood

Dr. Konstantin Frank © Spaswinefood

I was delighted to visit Dr. Franks and look forward to writing a post on that visit.

Your Wine Country Escape to the Fingers Lakes
Before you plan a trip to the Finger Lakes checkout these sources:
1. Finger Lakes Wine Country,
2. Finger Lakes Wine Alliance,
3. Finger Lakes Tourist Alliance, and
4. Finger Lakes Wine.

Ravine Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes 2012 © Spaswinefood

Throughout my Finger Lakes visits I have been introduced to many styles of Riesling. If you can not make it to the Finger Lakes check for Finger Lakes Riesling wines at your local wine store, or online sites. If your preference is a still wine do not forget to also try some of sparkling and dessert wines as well, especially the ice wines. Put some Finger Lakes Riesling in your wine glass.

Tasting Riesling © Spaswinefood

Riesling Ice © Spaswinefood

Doing our recent visit we soon discovered that the sparkling wines from Dr. Frank's are amazing.

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Riesling Nature 2018 © Spaswinefood

For further reading Asimov article illustrates nicely what is so special about Finger Lakes Riesling wines. Put some Finger Lakes Riesling in you glass. You will discover what is special about Finger Lakes Wine Country. I invite you to join me in my travels in the Finger Lakes and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Summer 2021

Finger Lakes, New York

Thirsty Owl, Finger Lakes © Spaswinefood

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Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski, and Plavac Mali: What's the connection?

2021-05-17T15:29:00.004-07:00

When enjoying California Zinfandel over the years other wine names were often brought up during the discussion. Perhaps you have heard there is a connection between Zinfandel and Primitivo, and maybe even Zinfandel and Plavac Mali? My Zinfandel explorations have lead me to discover Crljenak Kastelanski. Indeed Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski (Tribidrag) and Plavac Mali have things in common. What is the connection? In short Crljenak Kastelanski (original grape and indigenous Croatian grape variety) is a DNA match with Primitivo (from southern Italy and Sicily) and Zinfandel (California). Whereas Plavac Mali is the offspring of Crljenak Kastelanski and Dobricic (another indigenous Croatian grape variety). Let's explore the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now understood.

Marian's Vineyard, Lodi, California © Spaswinefood

Before beginning the Zinfandel's story I would like to note that the Croatian Tribidrag (known as Crljenak Kaštelanski in some sources), the Italian Primitivo, the Californian Zinfandel and the Montenegrin Kratošija are genetically (almost) identical. According to the ampelographic rule, a variety is named after the oldest name used, which is why the name Tribidrag, used the 15th century, was suggested in the grape variety bible Wine Grapes. While these varieties are almost genetically identical they have developed somewhat differently over the last 200 years in terms of ripening time, susceptibility to disease and taste. Let's begin in California where Zinfandel has a long history.

In Search of the Zinfandel Connection: Let the Story Begin

Before exploring California's Zinfandel I need to introduce Plavac Mali, the best known Croatian red wine, the nation's most sought-after red wine. Wine-searcher notes that Plavac Mali is one of Croatia's most planted varieties. The grape is found on the Dalmatian Coast, particularly on the Peljesac Peninsula, where the Postup and Dingac appellations are the best known examples of Plavac Mali wines. Plavac Mali gives low grape yields, producing concentrated wines. The result is Plavac Mali wines tend to be rich, age-worthy red wines.

A Wine & More article credits a most famous proponent, Mike Grgich, for helping to bring Plavac Mali to international attention. Plavac Mali was first thought to be genetically identical to the Californian widely planted variety Zinfandel. It was Mike Grgich who was the winemaker of the iconic Chateau Montelena Chardonnay. Yes, the Chardonnay that upset French wine critics in the 1976 Paris Judgement. Grgich in 1977 broke ground for his own Napa Valley winery. This winery is now know as Grgich Hills Estate.

Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford © Spaswinefood

Croatian and American Flags, Grgich Hills Estate © Spaswinefood

Grgich was the first to note the similarities between Zinfandel and Plavac Mali wines (the wines he knew from his youth on the Dalmatian Coast). When he employed researchers at UC Davis to explore further the findings were interesting. It turned out that the varieties are not identical, but are genetically linked. In fact the testing revealed that Plavac Mali was the offspring of Zinfandel, with the other parent being Dobricic, an ancient variety native to Croatia.

California Zinfandel

Indeed California has had a long history with Zinfandel. I will begin in Lodi, home to some very special Zinfandel wines. While touring Lodi’s historic vineyards August 201 I was introduced to wines from the Native Wine Project. Given Lodi's long history of growing wine grapes in California, it is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards. I will briefly comment on the Native Wines from these vineyards.

Old Zinfandel Vines, Marian's Vineyard © Spaswinefood

1. Lodi Native is No Ordinary Zin

Some have said that Lodi is more than Zinfandel. That is so true. Nevertheless, there is so much more to Lodi Zinfandel than you can discover at a quick glance. Given its rich diversity of Zinfandel wines let's take a further look at the Lodi Native Project. Lodi Native is a collaborative project with six wineries, where they are using grapes from historical vineyards, which dates back to the late 1800’s. The winemakers are working with Zinfandel grapes from these historical vineyards, with primary focus is on making wines that express the vineyard, or terroir versus varietal character or brand. Moreover, the overall emphasis is on sensible viticultural and minimalist winemaking practices. Such winemaking practices include native yeast fermentation and the use of no new oak. Without a doubt this project has shown me the wonderful range of possibilities for Lodi Zinfandel.

Macchia Wines, our last stop at the end of the tour, was where we were introduced to the ongoing inquiry into Zinfandel wines from Lodi's historic vineyards.

Discussin the Native Wine Project, Lodi © Spaswinefood

It was the Lodi Native Project that gave me deeper insights into Zinfandel wines from Lodi. Let me not forget to mention that Zinfandel is a indeed grape with its own interesting story. The Zinfandel story will continue to unfold through DNA analysis. This evolving understanding, plus Lodi winemakers bushing the boundaries of Zinfandel, means there are lots of exciting things yet to come from the Lodi Native Project.

2. Amador County Zinfandel

Amador County is also well known for its Zinfandel. This wine region, an historic viticultural area, is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards in the country. During a 2016 Wine Blogger visit with Amador County Vintners I had the pleasure to meet Winemaker Scott Harvey. Scott Harvey Wines showcase this rich sense of place.

Scott Harvey, Winemaker © Spaswinefood

Scott Harvey, Vineyard 1869 Zinfandel 2008 © Spaswinefood

Scott Harvey Wines 2008 © Spaswinefood

It was during that meeting I first heard the amazing story about Vineyard 1869 and Scott Harvey Wines. Amador County is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards in the country. Fortunately, some of these old vines have survived, such as the Grandpère Vineyard, which was planted with Zinfandel vines, even before 1869.

Scott Harvey Wines, Old Vines Zinfandel 2013 © Spaswinefood

Grandpère Vineyard is believed to be one of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards in America. The history of wine making in the Amador Wine Region is indeed deeply rooted.

3. More on California Zins

For sure Napa, Lodi and Amador produce some amazing Zinfandel wines. Another Zinfandel example includes award winning Zinfandel wines from Lytton Springs.

Ridge, Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek, Sonoma 2018

72% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, 8% Carignane, 2% Mataro

Vineyard: Lytton Springs Appellation: Dry Creek Valley

This is an award winning wine as indicated by the following reviews:

96 Points – Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate

96 Points – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

94 Points (Cellar Selection) – Wine Enthusiast

93 Points – Zinfandel Chronicles

92 Points – Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com

91 Points – Connoisseurs’ Guide

Ridge, Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek, Sonoma 2018 © Spaswinefood

Ridge Vineyards exists in two locations Lytton Springs and Monte Bello. It is the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County and in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellations. In 1962, Ridge made its first Monte Bello, and two years later its first Zinfandel. Since that time, Ridge has championed single-vineyard winemaking, searching California for those rare and exceptional vineyards where climate, soil, and variety are ideally matched.

For deep insights into the rich diversity of California Zinfandel visit ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers). While I have had amble opportunity to explore California Zinfandel on occasion I have also enjoyed getting to Italy's Primitivo. Plavac Mali wines from Croatia has been my most recent wine journey.

Plavac Mali

Since the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now better understood, let me conclude with Plavac Mali. After a little background research on Plavac Mali I was ready to explore the wines. Part of my Plavac Mali research included Saints Hills Plavac Mali wines.

Saints Hills Plavac Mali: Wines of the Saints © Spaswinefood

From left to right these wines are:

1. Saints Hills Black 2016 - is a complex, medium-bodied Plavac Mali from Dingač and Komarna.

Saints Hills Black 2016 © Spaswinefood

2. Saints Hills Plavac Mali St. Roko 2015

Saints Hills Plavac Mali St. Roko 2015 © Spaswinefood

Here is a description of this wine by Croatian Wine:

Vineyard Sv. Roko is located near the base of the scenic Pelješac peninsula, just north of the point where it becomes the mainland. This region is called Komarna, known for winegrowing since the Middle Ages. The mystical, southwest slopes of St. Roko are extremely steep, extremely difficult to cultivate, and extremely full of limestone which protects the vine from drought. To survive, the vine has to grow deep under a protective layer to find the fertile red soil. Exposed to the sun and wind, the vineyards offer spectacular views of the bay, the sea and the Pelješac peninsula. These are extreme conditions for making wine, where no one has made it before.
This full bodied, dry wine of a clear ruby red color with purple nuances, is very often referd to as “The Sun’s Child”. The nose is full of rich fruity aromas of blueberry, blackberry and plum, followed by aromas of mediterranean spice such as mint and basil, and some oregano. The texture is complex, layered with fine aromas of vanilla and dark chocolate, plums and figs,as well as some earthy elements. The finish is long, with notes of berry fruit and black pepper. It is differed by very fine minerallity and freshness.
Food pairing: Osso-bucco, roasted pork.

3. Saints Hills Plavac Mali Dingac 2015 comes from Saints Hills St. Lucia vineyards, which are located in the famous Dingač apellation on the Peljesac Peninsula.

Saints Hills Plavac Mali Dingac 2015 © Spaswinefood

Croatian Premium Wines description of this wine follows:

The nose of this wine is dominated by aromas of ripe red strawberries that are intermixed with those of cream, clove and hints of earthy elements. Aromas of Mediterranean spices and vegetation characterize wine of ruby red color. A warm and full-bodied wine of very pleasant acidity, dominated by chocolate and ripe fruit. Intensive notes of coffee with nutty elements in the background round up this rich Plavac Mali.

I enjoyed getting to know these three Plavac Mali wines from Saints Hills. The wines certainly lived up to the following quote on the bottle:

Love and Passion

Tradition and Expertise

Makes this Wine Worthy of the Saints

Saints Hills Plavac Mali © Spaswinefood

Croatia's Saints Hills wines are indeed Wines of the Saints. I will conclude with saying It is so easy to fall in love with Saints Hills Plavac Mali wines. Now is the perfect time for an at home vine-filled adventure with Croatia's Plavac Mali. Croatian Premium Wine Imports aided in my at-home wine adventure. While I loved creating vine-filled memories I am ready for vine-filled explorations in Croatian wine country. I am plotting for future wine explorations for a deeper understanding of Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali wines. Here is a link on how the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now understood. I invite you to join me in my future travels in Croatia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

May 2021

Croatia's Saints Hills: Wines of the Saints © Spaswinefood

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Spring time dining with wine of course

2021-05-13T17:41:00.003-07:00

I have not been to wine country in Europe since fall 2019, and South America since the beginning of 2020. That’s super unusual for me because normally I am in Europe twice a year. My soul longs for travel. While we wait for things to normalize after the pandemic we can celebrate el fresco, or at home. Recently we dined at home with friends who are fully vaccinated. It was such a privilege to begin normalizing our lives. For dinner at home did a food and wine pairing.

Wines for Dinner © Spaswinefood

I am so thankful for dining, that allows us to enjoy delicious local food, food delivery services, and a decent wine supply. Inspired by Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy, we enjoyed a somewhat of an European/South American Escape. Our dinner included three sparkling wines, and three red wines. Let's take a look at the wine and food parings from that April evening. While I will focus primarily on the wines, I will list the food pairings we enjoyed.

1. Ferrari, Rosé Brut, Trento DOC NV

Appetizer Pairing: Focaccia, Bresaola, Parmigiano (alt. bruchetta, smoked salmon)

This wine and food pairing was the perfect beginning.

2. COLESEL, Prosecco Cartizze Brut, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG Italy 2019

Appetizer Pairing: Proscuitto wrapped dates, Manchego Cheese

COLESEL Cartizze Brut, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG, 2019 © Spaswinefood

The last sparkling wine was a Champagne. It was a time to use that vintage Champagne in my wine cellar.

Springtime Vineyards, Hautvillers, France © Spaswinefood

3. G. Tribaut, Millesime Blanc de Blanc Brut, Premier Cru, Champagne-Ardenne France 2008

Plate 1 Pairing: Lobster (alternative Tuna, Mushroom)

I still remember my visit to the Champagne house where I purchased this wine.

Champagne G. Tribaut, Hautvillers © Spaswinefood

My earlier visit to Hautvillers in France's Champagne-Ardene wine region included a visit to Champagne G. Tribaut. Amongst the wines I purchase after tasting was a vintage champagne.

G. Tribaut, Millesime Blanc de Blanc Brut, Premier Cru © Spaswinefood

4. Artesana, Zinfandel Reserva, Uruguay 2015

Plate 2 Pairing: BBQ Pork Ribs

This was a perefect pairing and brought back memories of visiting Artesana Winery in Canelones, Uruguay.

Artesana Winery, Canelones, Uruguay © Spaswinefood

Yes, we know Uruguay is known for its Tannat; so discovering the an Uruguayian winery doing Zinfandel was a special find.

Zinfandel Awaiting Harvest, Artesana Winery © Spaswinefood

Zinfandel, Artesana Winery © Spaswinefood

Spending time with Winemaker Valentina Gatti was a special treat.

Winemaker Valentina Gatti, Artesana Winery © Spaswinefood

5. Villa Canestrari, I Lasi, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC 2016

Plate 3 Pairing: Steak with Veggies & Mushroom

I Lasi, Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC 2016 © Spaswinefood

This was a great wine pairing with steak. I would highly recommend it.

6. Clos Apalta, Le Petit Clos 2014

Dessert Pairing: Chocolate Dipped Raspberries

Clos Apalta, Le Petit Clos 2014 © Spaswinefood

This was the perfect dinner ending given four of us had visited Chile's Clos Apalta in the Colchagua Valley in 2020. That visit was a first rated experience for sure.

Clos Apalta, Colchagua Valley, Chile © Spaswinefood

Colchagua Valley © Spaswinefood

It was an awesome wine and food pairing dinner with friends. I would highly recommend that you give the above wine and food pairing menu a try. I invite you to join me in my future wine travels in Europe and South America at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

April 2021

Antigua, Guatemala

Bodega Garcon, Uruguay © Spaswinefood

Wines: The Morning After © Spaswinefood

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Dreaming of a tequila adventure in Mexico

2021-05-06T12:04:00.000-07:00

What is a #winelover doing thinking about a post pandemic Tequila Adventure in Mexico? After reading an article about the Tequila Train it made me think of earlier days in Mexico. I still remember our earlier drive through Mexico in 2011. That trip took us down the east coast of Mexico. I know folks might prefer their tequila straight but I like a good margarita. For sure those who know Tequila well, while they might enjoy a margarita, they are lovers of the nuances of Tequila. Since I have a great appreciation for wine I know I need to learn more about Tequila.

Margarita Time, Mérida, Mexico © Spaswinefood

Remembering Earlier Margarita Travels

After we entered Sonora, Mexico at Agua Prieta, we headed towards Neuvo Casas Grandes on Ruta 2, and then onto Ruta 10. The drive from Agua Prieta to Neuvo Casas Grandes, Sonora went quickly so we decided to continue onto Chihuahua.

Heading into the Sierra Madre Occidental © Spaswinefood

Sierra Madre Occidental in the Distance © Spaswinefood

Sierra Madre Occidental © Spaswinefood

Travels Along Ruta 10 © Spaswinefood

Near Neuvo Casas Grandes, Ruta 10 © Spaswinefood

It was onto Chihuahua, Chihuahua for the first night. Here are a few photos from the route.

Ruta 45 North of Chihuahua © Spaswinefood

In Chihuahua, Chihuahua we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express. After a restful stay in Chihuahua we onto Torreón the next morning on Ruta 45, then Ruta 49. Enroute to Torreón we continually passed farmland.

Along Ruta 45 to Jimez, then onto Ruta 49 © Spaswinefood

Along the Route © Spaswinefood

The state of Chihuahua is one of the richest agricultural states in Mexico. In the area around Delicias we saw fruit processing plants and walnut farms.

Walnut Trees near Delicias, Ruta 45 © Spaswinefood

My first spotting of a hot springs (balnearios) was at Camargo, Chihuahua.

Balernia Sign, Ruta 45 © Spaswinefood

At Torreón, Coahuila we stopped at Hotel Fresno Galerias for the night. This hotel was excellent value for the price.

Hotel Fresno Galerias © Spaswinefood

Finally, after two days in Mexico, we stopped for a margarita.

Margarita Time, Hotel Fresno Galerias © Spaswinefood

Also there was Spinach dip and a salad for dinner.

Spinach Dip © Spaswinefood

Vegetable Salad © Spaswinefood

From Torreón it was onto Saltillo, via Ruta 40, here we would head south to Matehuala via Ruta 57. In Matehuala, San Luis Potosí we stayed at Las Palmas Midway Inn and dined at the Las Plamas Restaurant.

Margarita Time, Las Plamas Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Eventually we arrived on the east coast of Mexico. As we traveled down Mexico's East Coast, one of the stops included Mérida.

Mérida

Fortunately on our road trip down Mexico's east coast we took time to explore the beautiful colonial city of Mérida, Yucatán. It took us a pleasant two and half hours to drive from Campeche to Merida. We found Merida to be a city with great architecture, amazing culture and exciting cuisine. To add to that list there are amazing archeological ruins nearby.

Plaza Independencia, Mérida, Mexico © Spaswinefood

Mérida is an Architectural Treasure

We spent two wonderful days in Mérida, the capital of the Yucatán state. Mérida's beautiful historic city center is an architectural treasure. The city's historical center is second largest in Mexico. We knew we wanted to be at the center of this architectural treasure so before leaving Campeche we made reservations at the pet friendly Casa Lucia Hotel right in the historic center of Mérida. Given that Mérida is a large city it is important to be clear on your driving directions before attempting to find a specific street location.

Casa Lucia Hotel, Mérida, Mexico © Spaswinefood

Mérida has Amazing Cultural Activities and Nearby Archeological Ruins

We explored some of Mérida's historic district. There are plenty of cultural activities to check out in Mérida, with local Mayan festivals, concerts and other year around cultural events. The area is especially beautiful at night, with the historic buildings lit up. You will also see horse-drawn carriages. Mérida is a world of rich Mexican folklore and ancient Mayan influences.

Our first night in Mérida was the beginning of a Mayan festival at Plaza Independencia. There was lots of activity. We watched a Folklorico performance. We saw people hanging out in the plaza to take advantage of free Wi-Fi connection. Of course not everyone was online, there were some checking out the local treats, such as papas frites (french fries), churros on the plaza. There are many restaurants near the zócalo. There are also great places to drop by for a pizza or snack and a margarita.

Folklorica at Plaza Independencia, Mérida, Mexico © Spaswinefood

From Mérida you can easily visit the nearby archeological ruins (such as Chichen Itza).

Mérida has Great Yucatán Cuisine
Mérida is a fun place to explore Yucatán cuisine, which has strong European and Mexican influences.

Ceviche at Portico del Peregrino, Mérida, Mexico © Spaswinefood

Enchiladas con Mole, Portico del Peregrino, Mérida © Spaswinefood

We arrived mid-day and took lunch near the Plaza Independencia (zócalo) at Restaurant Portico Del Peregrino, 57 Calle 501, between 60 and 62 Centro, Mérida. For lunch we ordered Lemon Soup, a Yucatán specialty and for entrees our choices were Ceviche and Cheese Enchiladas with mole. We shared a lemon pie for dessert. A display of tequila at the restaurant caught the attention of our attention on the way out.

Amaro Restaurant, Mérida © Spaswinefood

Next day, we dropped by Amaro, a vegetarian restaurant for lunch. For lunch we ordered margaritas, Eggplant Enchiladas and fish with vegetables and rice. We finished dinner with a flan to share. This time on the way out this time we saw a wine display. Dinner on the second night was at La Parranda Restaurant. We ordered Sopa de Frijoles (bean soup) and Vegetarian Fajitas and of course margaritas.

Amaro Restaurant, Mérida © Spaswinefood

Mérida is the perfect colonial city to explore culture, food and history. During our east coast adventures in Mexico we very much enjoyed checking out the beauty of Mérida.

Any day I can begin lunch with margaritas and taco chips is a tequila adventure. Those interested in the history of the amazing cocktail margarita should take a look at this article. For sure this popular cocktail has become well known world wide.

Margarita Time, Cerro San Cristobal, Guatemala © Spaswinefood

Yesterday was Cinco de Mayo. Hence a most delightful time it was to reflect on earlier tequila times! Indeed springtime is perfect timing to contemplate future tequila adventures. For sure, in preparation, I will be reading about Tequila in advance of my travels, starting first with this Wikipedia article. Napa Valley's Wine Train offers a National Tequila Day experience on Cinco de Mayo. Just in case you are interested in such a tequila adventure in Mexico checkout this food and wine article, and/or Jose Cuervo article on the Tequila Train. I invite you to join me in my future Tequila travels in Mexico and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Dreaming of Tequila Adventures in Mexico

May 2021

Mustard Fields, Rutherford, Napa Valley © Spaswinefood

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Romancing those unique grape varieties: Vignettes from wine country travels around the world

2021-04-27T12:31:00.003-07:00

Call me a romantic for, of all my wine country travels, it is the unique grape varieties that catch my attention. Whether my wine travels takes me to Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Romania, Serbia, Turkey or North America increasingly, I find myself drawn to the indigenous and local grape varieties. Sure, I love an excellent Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, or a fantastic wine blend that we all know so well. Of course, there are amazing rosé wines. Let me not forget the best of bubbles from Champagne and elsewhere. Equally, I love the best of those amazing sweet wines, such as Port, Madiera, and Tokaji. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties. I have seen this in Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Countries, where there is a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes, are grape-fully inspiring to me.

Let me share some vignettes on unique grape varieties from Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Romania, Serbia, Turkey, and the United States.

Bulgaria

These days Bulgarian winemaking, with its modern state of art wineries, produces high quality wines from indigenous grape varieties like Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin, Gamza, Dimyat, and Red Misket. In addition, international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc are also widely planted. During my Bulgarian wine travels I have enjoyed, not only getting to known its wine regions, but also the wines produced from its indigenous grape varieties. Here is a journey into that unique wine world.

Château Burgozone, Danube Plain, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

Bulgaria is an area with a long tradition of winemaking. Wines from Ancient Thrace date back six thousands years. Cult of the god of wine “Dionysus” actually originated here. Thrace, an important geographical and historical region in Southeast Europe, is split among Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. The region is bounded by the Balkan Mountains to the north, the Aegean Sea to the south, and the Black Sea to the east. It includes southeastern Bulgaria (Northern Thrace), northeastern Greece (Western Thrace), and the European part of Turkey (East Thrace).

Georgia

The Republic of Georgia's wine culture is rich in tradition. It is one of the oldest producing wine regions in the world. However, it is not every day that you get an opportunity to experience the rich wine and food traditions of a unique wine producing country, like Georgia. During a press trip to Georgia in 2012 sponsored by the Georgian Wine Association, Spaswinefood had the opportunity to experience first hand the wonderful Georgian hospitality centered around wine making and cuisine.

Discovering Qvevri Wine Making
Qvevri (kvevri) wine making is a traditional wine making process used in Georgia. What is unique to this wine making process is the use of a large earthenware vessel (qvevri) in which the wine is made. Basically this natural wine making process involves the use of large clay pots, lined with beeswax that is buried in the ground.

Our first stop in Tbilisi was the Georgian National Museum where we toured the museum. One of the visit highlights for me was seeing a display of historical qvevris. Throughout our visit to Georgia we saw how qvevris are used in today's wine production.

While at the Alaverdi Monastry we were treated to both a glimpse into the past, and provided with an overview of today's modern wine making.

At Schuchmann Wines we also saw how qvevris are used in modern wine making.

Apparently, there is a difference in opinion as to whether wine production originated in Georgia, Turkey or Armenia. In any event, DNA analysis shows all European grape varieties have their origin in Turkey, Georgia or Armenia. Alice Feiring describes Georgian wine making as wine of the ancients. This is certainly true for Georgia's qvevri wine making tradition. Qvevri wine making dates back to 4000BC, with viticulture in Georgia dating back to 6000BC. Qvevris are widely use today in Georgian wine making alongside modern wine making techniques.

Georgian Feast or Supra

I discovered first hand in Georgia not only qvevris wine making but also, the rich tradition of the Georgian feast, or supra. Georgians truly know how to celebrate with wine and food. In fact, it is hard to find the words to describe those rich, intense experiences that I had in Georgia. While in Georgia I experienced a number of Georgian feasts that involved food and wine. Georgian cuisine has been described as being influenced by Middle Eastern and European traditions. It has been said that Georgian food and wine are best observed at a feast or supra (a traditional banquet feast). Part of the Georgian tradition is to have a toastmaster at such gatherings. Usually a toast is accompanied by a song or verse. Needless to say, we got to meet some amazing people and drink some amazing wines produced in qvevri and non-qvevri styles. Some of the highlights included:

1. Laursab's Azarpesha Restaurant

Our first lunch in Georgia was at the Azarpesha Restaurant. Over lunch we were introduced to the amazing Georgian tradition of toasting by Laursab.

2. Chateau Mukhrani

While at Chateau Mukhrani we tasted some impressive wines during lunch. Amongst the wines I tasted Chateau Mukhrani's Saperavi 2008 and Reserve Du Prince 2007 were excellent .

3. Bagrationi

During our visit to Bagrationi Winery we tasted a variety of sparkling wines. Bagrationi has been producing wines since 1882.

4. Tasting Cognac Georgian Style

We visited the Sarajishvili Winery known for its brandy production. After an introduction explaining the history of the winery we were treated to a barrel sample. This was followed by a Sarajishvili Cognac tasting. The cognac tasting was accompanied by an amazing offering of treats.

5. Lunch Time Feast at Shumi

There was no end to the fabulous Georgian cuisine that we were introduced to while in Georgia. At Shumi Wine Company in Tsinandali, Telavi region, Georgia we had lunch, sampled wines and listened to Georgian traditional polyphonic songs.

6. Feasting at Chateau Mere

Our first night at Chateau Mere we sampled more wine with dinner. Of course these was entertainment to go along with the feasting. It was a delightful evening.

7. Traditional Dinner at Tsinandali Palace

The traditional dinner at Tsinandali Palace is what I would describe as a "goodbye feast". Again there was wine, food and entertainment.

The above wine and food highlights are but a brief overview of the hospitality that I experienced in Georgia. It was a fabulous introduction to the Kartli and Kakheti wine regions with an immersion of Georgian hospitality. A visit to Georgia is a must for hard-core wine enthusiasts.

Greece

My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. In fact Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. White grapes with names like Assyrtiko and Malagousia. Then there are the red grapes like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Limnio, and Stavroto, just to name a few. While there is so much I have come to appreciate I will briefly comment on Assyrtiko and Xinomavro.

Assyritko

Assyrtiko, a white grape indigenous to Santorini, is arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. It is a wine with great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto.

For sure Santorini Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the wines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, enhancing Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.

What stuck with me was that the Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are some of the oldest vines in Greece.

Xinomavro

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would perhaps approve of my love affair with Xinomavro. The affair began Fall 2015 in Northern Greece. It was not in Naoussa but in Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards where I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (1997-2005), and Rapsani Reserve (2007-2011). The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991.

It was like a dream come true to travel the Wine Roads of Northern Greece. Our Rapsani Wine Adventure included a vineyard visit to learn about Rapsani wines. For me no wine tasting room experience can compare to a visit to a wine region. This wine adventurer's burning desire to learn more about these wines certainly hit a new high that day.

Rapsani's vineyards on the slopes of Mount Olympus is where the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Tsantali's Rapsani wine. Rapsani is a blend of these three grapes.

Even though the grapes had already been picked it was indeed special to take in the vineyard views on that autumn day.

On the same Northern Greece wine safari I also tasted Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region. While at Kitma Kir-Yianni the wine tasting included Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. Later at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

During our visit to the Alpha Estate in Ampelia, within the Amyndeon wine region, there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's scenic vineyards. We did a group photo at the scenic overlook.

Is Xinomavro on Fire?

I attended a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #DWCC15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani. Now the question was, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer at that time and still is "YES".

Obviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity of this wine that most will choose one, or more to be their favorite(s).

Each time I returned to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. Greece is at the top of my wine list for its unique grape varieties. In Athens Cinque Wine Bar is a must for wines made with indigenous grapes.

Romania

My visits to Romania has provided me amazing wine adventures. Anyone touring Romania wine country will quickly discover that Romania is under going a wine revolution. I first came to Romania in 2016 to explore wine country, returned in 2017, and again in 2018. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Romanian wines, produced from both indigenous grape varieties (like Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, Fetească Negra, and Negru de Drăgășani), and international grapes (like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Key factors behind this revolution are (1) the use of modern winemaking technology, (2) talented winemakers, and (3) overall growth in the wine industry throughout the country.

The fact that Romania's wines are receiving attention is not surprising given Romania's wine history. Romania, one of the oldest viticultural regions in the world, has had a long tradition of wine making. Wine making started in Romania when the Greeks arrived from the Black Sea. Like many Eastern European countries that tradition was stifled under communist occupation. Romania was used to provide cheap low quality wine to meet the demands of the Soviet Union. After the 1989 revolution the production of quality of wines became a focus. Romania is now one of the 6th largest wine producers in Europe, and one of the largest in the world. Today Romania is an emerging star in the wine world.

My 2018 travels to the Crisana and Dealu Mare wine regions, attendance at the Rovinhud Wine Show, and participation in wine events in Bucharest included:

Crisana wine country visit November 14-16, 2018 trip was immediately after a #Winelover Hangout in Budapest, Hungary on the 13th November. When the tour ended some #winelovers continued onto the Rovinhud Wine Show, Timisoara.
Rovinhud Wine Show 2018 November 16-18, 2018, Timisoara (5th Rovinhud wine show)
Dealu Mare wine country visit November 19-22, 2018
Bucharest #Winelover Events, November 22-24, 2018 included attending the GoodFair Wine Show 2018, #Winelover Hangout, and the official launching of #Winelover Romania.

Bucharest's engaging wine bar scene includes wine bars offering Romanian wines made with indigenous grape varieties. Romanian wines made with native grape varieties are very attractive, not just because of their obscurity, but also because the wines are good. Worldwide wine bars have increased in popularity. This popularity is not only because they offer a more sophisticated atmosphere, but also they offer better wine choices. This Spaswinefood enthusiast recommends that visitors to Bucharest look for #Winelover Romania Affiliated wine bars where you will find excellent wines made with native grape varieties.

November 2018 #Winelover Romania was launched, by naming the first two #Winelover Romania Affiliated Wine Bars. These affiliated wine bars were recognized because they offer wines made with native Romanian grape varieties. Romania is one the world's largest wine producers, and the 5th largest in Europe. Romania's wine success has been recognized for both international grape varieties, such as (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot . . .), and indigenous grape varieties, such as (Fetească Neagra, Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, and Tămâioasă Românească). Home to 14 native grape varieties this makes Romanian wines exciting to explore. Sure there are many places where you go for good wines however, there are those special places where you will discover something richer and unique. Bucharest wine bars serving wine made with indigenous grapes fits that later category. Hence Romania tops my list for wine bars promoting wines made with indigenous grapes.

Turkey

Turkey is well known as a popular tourist attraction. Each year many tourists come to Turkey to visit the spectacular archaeological ruins. When I visited Turkey in it was under going a rebirth in its wine industry. There are 800 genetically identified indigenous grapes known from Turkey. Spaswinefood has great memories of Turkey. Memories of discovering some of the best of Turkey's wines. Before my visit to Turkey I remember reading Tom Brosnahan's travel website, which gives an overview of Turkish wine regions. I also remember him noting that two vineyards, namely Kavaklidere and Doluca vineyards in mid 1900's, help set the standards for Turkish wine. During our visit to Turkey last fall I saw lots of evidence that this was the case. Still it was not until #EWBC12 conference that I tasted some of the best of Kavaklidere wines.

Kavaklidere Wine at the Gala Banquet

As we traveled throughout Turkey scribbled in my notes of Turkish wines to taste was Kavaklidere wines. Finally, Kavaklidere wines were on the list of wines to be tasted at the EWBC Gala Banquet. One of the courses on the banquet menu was Crispy Duck, paired with the following two wines:

1) Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), and

2) Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 from Öküzgözü, Elaziğ.

Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was an excellent choice. The Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was included in a side-by-side tasting with Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). While in Turkey it was exciting for me to taste red wines made from the indigenous grape variety Öküzgözü. Other Turkish wineries featured at the Gala Banquet that evening included Doluca Winery, Kayra Winery, LA Wines, Pamukkale Winery, Selendi Winery, Sevilan Winery, Suvla Winery, Yazgan Winery and Vinkara Winery.

Kavaklidere Wine at the Grand Terroir Tasting

A Kavaklidere wine was one of the two Turkish wines featured as part of the Grand Terroir Tasting at #EWBC12. It was a Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011.

During the Grand Terroir tasting the impressive wine lineup included the following list:

What the wines from the Eastern Mediterranean have in common is a rich wine history and unique geogaphy, or in essence a Grand Terroir. In fact Turkey can be described as the "Heart of the Grand Terroir". Southeastern Anatolia grape origins date back to 9000BC. There are 800 genetically identified indigenous grapes known from Turkey. The Turkish wine industry has undergone rebirth. The rebirth of Turkey's wine industry includes wines made from indigenous and international grapes. Two Turkish wines selected for the Grand Terroir tasting were:

1) Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011 (wine #1 on tasting sheet) and

2) Sevilen, Plato Kaleck Karasi 2011 (wine #6 on tasting sheet).
Both wines were excellent representatives of Turkish wines. I particularly liked the Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011. What made this white wine special for me was that the blend included the indigenous Narince grape. I must admit I have developed a special liking for Turkey's indigenous grapes. I am totally convinced that with world-wide exposure Turkish wines will become popular. My best guess is that there is a special niche in the wine industry for wines made from indigenous Turkish grapes.

Tasting Kavaklidere Wine

I also tasted some awesome Kavaklidere wines at a tasting session following the Grand Terroir. Two Kavaklidere wines that I tasted were Boğazkere 2004 and Kalecik Karasi 1995.

I loved these two special wines, with their refined elegance. Special thanks to a Turkish sommelier that brought them to my attention. They were indeed a special treat. While in Turkey I tasted not only great wines derived from the popular international grapes and Narince but from other indigenous Turkish grapes, such as Öküzgözü, Boğazkere and Kalecik Karasi.

Serbia

Just as some cellar wines others cellar memories of wine country travels. October 2017, when the Prokupac vines were in full autumn colors, this Spaswinefood enthusiast toured Serbian wine country. My #winelover vine-filled adventure included 1-2) touring eastern and central Serbian wine country, 3) celebrating International #ProkupacDay, and 4) attending a gala banquet with northern Serbia wines.

What follows are memories of those #winelover explorations in Serbia.

1. Eastern Serbia
It was with great excitement and anticipation that our we set out for the Danube. After leaving Belgrade we traveled for about three hours before boarding the Aquastar Maxim for a Danube cruise. While we cruised we ate lunch, and sampled a few wines. Later, we would meet some of the local Serbian wine producers, and taste their wines. Our day ended with a visit to the historic wine cellars at Rajacke.

The Danube

It was a pleasant day for a Danube cruise.

We sampled a few white wines on deck while taking in the sights along the river bank. Later, we enjoyed lunch below deck.

Tasting Eastern and Southern Serbian Wines
After disembarking we traveled onto Matalj Winery in the Negotinska Krajina Wine Region. Here we did a walk around tasting of wines from eastern and southern Serbia.

During the tasting I was delighted to meet the wine producers, such as Andrianna Andrijeska, owner and winemaker at Vinarija Izba Jovanovic, a boutique wine producer. She shared her first vintage of Merlot.

It was exciting for me to taste this Merlot wine made with minimum intervention.

Vinarija Lastar's lineup of wines included a Lastar Tamjanika. I went to Serbia with the idea of focusing primarily on wines made from local, or Balkan grape varieties. One of grapes on my list was Tamjanka.

From their wine lineup naturally I selected a Lastar Tamjanika.

It was a pleasure to meet some of the faces behind today's Serbian wines.

Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellars
Perhaps being in Serbian wine country on Friday 13^th added to our late evening visit to Rajacke Pivnice, a site of some very unique wine cellars. Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellars consists of 270 stone houses, with some dating back over 200 years ago. The construction of these unique wine cellars/drinking houses started in the latter half of the 18th century and continued until 1930's. The cellars sit on a hill 2 km from the village of Rajac. Rajac is located in east Serbia, 20 kms south of Negotin, near the border of Bulgaria and Serbia.

My introduction to Rajacke Pivnice Cellars was in the dark. Our hosts questioned us at least twice if we should visit the nearby cellars in the dark. Each time the group responded, “YES”. The end result was we walked 3 km each way in the dark, mostly uphill to this historical site. After walking in the dark for about 2 km uphill from Rajac we arrived at the entrance to the cellar area. The good news is that we were able to visit a Rajacke Pivnice wine cellar. After a brief walk through the cellar area there was one cellar door opened.

Rajacke Pivnice cellars were established as a secondary settlement, or compound close to the residents permanent homes in Rajac. The houses at Rajacke Pivnice are unique in that they were built without chimneys. Historical records suggest that during the Serbian migration from Kosovo and Metohija newcomers established villages, like Rajac. The Rajac area is known for its vineyards that date back to Roman times. White wines produced from this area include semijon, smederevka, and bagrina. Whereas the red wines include prokupac, crni burgundac, and gama.

Here we had the opportunity to meet the winemaker, and to sample some of his wines.

Besides taking a closer look at the cellar I also sampled a few wines. Somehow in my mind I knew there would be a glass of Prokupac waiting for me.

Yes, we did visit a cemetery next to the cellars. It was after all Friday 13^th.

2. Central Serbia

Our adventure in Central Serbian wine country began at Vinarija Aleksandrović in Vinča, a family winery, followed by a tour of the Church of St. George and the Oplenac Hill Vineyard. After tasting some awesome Aleksandrović wines we were introduced to the rich history of winemaking along the Oplenac Wine Route. Later we traveled onto Vinarija Despotika where we met with a group Central Serbia wine producers.

The Oplenac Vineyards in Vinča have a long history of winemaking, dating back to ancient times. When the Romans cultivated vines here the area was known as Vincea; in the Middle Ages it was called Vinica. The area thrived during the reign of King Peter 1 and King Alexander 1 who both promoted Oplenac wines throughout Europe. The Aleksandrović family has been involved in wine making here for over a century. They collaborated with royal viticulturists and cellar masters. Their great grandfather helped establish the Vinča Winemaking Cooperative in 1903. Later wine production in this area met many challenges and went into decline. However, when the royal cellar master, who migrated to Canada after WWII, discovered that the Aleksandrović family was establishing a winery he sent the recipe for the Trijumf blend. Today the winery utilizes the latest advances in wine making technology while still highly valuing the winemaking traditions of this region.

Vinarija Aleksandrović, established in 2000 plays a leading role in promoting Serbian wines, both at home and abroad. Next, it was onto the Vinarija Despotika in Vlaski Do village, near Smederevska Palanka. Here we met with a group Central Serbia wine producers.

The host winery, Despotika has 12 hectares of vineyards, in three locations. Their estate vineyard has stunning views of surrounding the area. Besides growing international grape varieties, like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon the winery also grows indigenous grape varieties, such as Morava and Prokupac. It was such a delight to meet some of Central Serbia's wine producers that afternoon at Despotika.

3. International Prokupac Day
Most would not travel halfway around the world to taste a wine. Perhaps that is because you have yet to taste Prokupac wines. Prokupac (Prokoopaz), a red grape that is taking central stage in the Serbian wine world, is indigenous grape, which has been known since the middle ages in this area. International Prokupac Day 2017 celebrations in Belgrade was a perfect day to discover some of the best Prokupac wines.

The day that began with master classes. Tomislav Ivanovic, Igor Lukovic and Caroline Gilby MW lead these sessions.

Prokupac Producers

While the morning was filled with rich information about Prokupac, the afternoon was a time to meet the local producers at the Gastrobar in Belgrade. This was an opportunity to taste Prokupac wines beyond what I had been introduced to in the morning sessions.

4. Gala Banquet with Northern Serbian Wines

Our last evening in Serbia over 40 #winelovers from around the world gathered for a gala banquet. Discovering wines from Serbia's Vojvodina wine region over dinner at The Square Restaurant, Square Nine Hotel, Belgrade was indeed a gala affair. Our Serbian hosts had chosen an excellent location,The Square, one of the top restaurants in Belgrade for this event.

Of course the setting was just perfect for such a gala affair with #winelover friends.
When #winelovers arrived, the wines were beautifully displayed on a table at the center of the restaurant. Special thanks to the restaurant's sommelier for a stunning presentation of the wines.

The northern Serbian province of Vojvodina is know for its rich agricultural lands, which makes up 84% of the province. Wine-searcher lists 29 wine producers in Vojvodina province. We were most fortunate that our #winelover gala banquet included an excellent representation of these producers. Clearly our Serbian #winelover adventures were completely filled with rich experiences.

North America

Before European grape vines were introduced to North America we had native grapes. Most of the wines we drink are produced from these Vitis vinfera wine grapes that were introduced. Hybrid grapes on the other hand are grapes that are a cross between vinifera varieties and the more disease-resistant American varieties. Native grape varieties and their hybrids are starting to become more attractive, not just because of their obscurity, but also because wines made from these grapes are good.

During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties in Europe (Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey) where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Recent wine travels to Virginia and Texas wine have left me grape---fully surprised with the increasing use of native grapes in North America. Sure international grape varieties are the most popular; however, increasing American hybrid grapes are playing a greater role. Carlo Devito, who writes on East Coasts wineries, notes that wine snobs have often looked down on wines made with hybrid grapes. Devito argues that tendency to blame the grape and not the winemaker no longer makes sense. It also does not make sense to me, given that both knowledge and technology has evolved to make good wines from hybrid grapes.

A Wine Folly article describes six of the hundreds of identified native grape varieties. She notes that wines made from grapes like Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc, and others hybrids are starting to make waves in areas that have cold winters. Here are the hybrid grapes that I encountered in recent wine travels to Virginia and Texas:

1. Chambourcin
During late June 20 visit to Viginia I tasted a number wines made with Chambourcin, a French-American hybrid grape created by Joannes Seyve (1900–1966), a French biochemist. This hybrid variety grows well in the Midwest and Northeast United States. My first example is The Winery at Bull Run, Estate Rosé of Chambourcin, which is a rosé wine made with Chambourcin grapes.

The Winery at Bull Run, Estate Rosé of Chambourcin 2018

I have tasted many rosé wines made in many different styles however, not many made with this grape variety; hence it was especially exciting for me to taste a rosé wine made with Chambourcin grapes. Another Virginia rosé wine made with the same grape is a Effingham Rosé Wine.

Effingham, Rosé 2018

It was especially exciting for me to taste those Virginia rosé wines made with Chambourcin grapes. This grape is also used to make red wines.

2. Vidal Blanc
Vidal Blanc is one the grape varieties derived from the native grape variety Vitis rupestris. Vidal Blanc has adapted well to Virginia. Here are two examples:

The Winery at Bull Run, Vidal Blanc 2017

Paradise Springs Winery of Clifton, Vidal Blanc 2017

3. Traminette

In this case French biochemist Joannes Seyve's variety Joannes-Seyve 23.416 was crossed with Gewürztraminer to produce the Traminette grape. This French American hybrid was created by Herb C. Barrett ca. 1965, University of Illinois, Urbana/Champaign. This grape is known for its excellent wine quality, good productivity, resistance to fungal diseases, and has cold hardiness superior to its acclaimed parent, Gewürztraminer.

Effingham, Traminette 2017

I also encountered blends made with Vidal Blanc and Traminette, both hybrid grapes.

Paradise Springs Winery of Clifton, Sommet Blanc 2017

Paradise Springs Sommet Blanc 2017 is a delightful white wine blend of 43% Vidal Blanc, 31% Traminette, and 26% Riesling.

4. Norton
Norton has been derived from the native grape variety Vitis aestivalis. Given this red grape does well in Virginia, I was not surprised to find it on the wine tasting menu.

The Winery at Bull Run, Norton 2017

This Norton wine caught my attention. After all, this well-known black-colored grape variety was first cultivated in Richmond, Virginia. Norton has shown consistent potential as a red wine. The grape grows happily in the Midwest and is one of the most important wine grapes in Missouri (MO is home to the first AVA in America). Norton varietal wines has been described as having high acid with light tannin and big fruity flavors of black cherries, chocolate, vanilla and earth.

One of the first times I was introduced to Norton was at a 2018 Wine Bloggers Conference in Santa Rosa.

Norton is also used a blend, as I discovered at Virginia's Effinham winery.

Effingham, Fermented Adult Beverage 2016

The back label of this Effingham, Fermented Adult Beverage 2016 caught my attention. Yes, it was the reference to Norton as being one of the grapes used in the blend that really caught my attention.

5. Black Spanish (Lenoir) Grape

In his own vineyard in Texas Hill Country Harold grows a grape variety known as Black Spanish. By mid-July the Black Spanish grapevines in Harold's Vineyard were already undergoing verasion. In some articles this black skinned grape variety is described as a Vitis aestivalis species. A recent research study cited in Wikipedia makes another claim:

The American wild grapevine parent of Black Spanish (a.k.a. Jacquez) is Vitis berlandieri and not Vitis aestivalis. This hybridization is not known to have been purposeful, and may have occurred naturally, as was the case with many of the early American grape cultivars. Riaz et al. (2019) have now published the genetic profile of the Jacquez grapevine as follows (percentages): V. vinifera: 69% V. berlandieri: 21% V. rupestris: 7% V. riparia: 3%.

Black Spanish grapes have presented challenges for winemakers. This grape has been an ongoing challenge for Harold to turn into a delicious tasting wine. He is the first to admit that he recognizes the strengths and weaknesses of working with this grape variety.

Black Spanish is a teinturier grape, which in French means to dye or stain. In this case the grape has both dark flesh and dark colored juice. The strengths of this grape variety is that it does well in the hot, and often humid climate of Texas. On the plus side, the Black Spanish grapevine is resistant to Pierce's disease, a deadly disease, that has caused significant losses in Texas vineyards where the pathogen is endemic. Wine-searcher notes that Black Spanish is commonly made into musky, weighty red wines, or fortified wines. Sure working with the Black Spanish grape poses challenges for making a great wine. It does however, present ample opportunities for the discussion of problem solving strategies, and continued explorations.

Two More North American Examples
Earlier travels to the Finger Lakes, New York, and Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada were amongst my first introductions to the use of hybrid grapes.

Cayuga White
The Finger Lakes, a cold climate wine growing region, is home to over 100 wineries that produce wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as French-American and native grape varieties. Cayuga White, my next hybrid example comes from Cayuga Lake area.

The Cayuga Lake American Viticultural Area (AVA) was established in 1988, as a sub-region within the Finger Lakes AVA established in 1982. Amongst this sub-region's best known wines are Sparkling Wines, Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Ice Wine; as well wines made from French-American and Native American grape varietals. For example you will also find grapes, such the Cayuga grape that was bred specifically for this region by Cornell University. The Cayuga White is a wine grape developed from crosses of the hybrids Schuyler and Seyval Blanc.

Cabernet Libre

When I visited Enrico Winery on Vancouver Island I tasted 2010 Cabernet Libre, which was a delightful wine to discover.

While at Enrico's I took the time to visit the vineyards. In fact it was exciting to check out the Cabernet Libre grapes

While this British Columbia example is an hybrid it is not native to North America. This hybrid grape developed by Valentin Blattner in Switzerland to be fungal resistant, is now being grown Canada’s cool, wet coasts (British Columbia and Nova Scotia). It is however, a good example of the use of hybrid grapes to overcome climatic challenges.

The above North American examples from Virginia, Texas, Finger Lakes, and British Columbia illustrate the increasing use of hybrid grapes in winemaking. An article by Laura Burgess in Vinepair speculates on the future of wine made with hybrid grapes. Another Article by Peter Weltman describes a pioneering group of winemakers working with hybrid grapes. Lauren Mowey's article on Saving America's Indigenous Wine Grapes certainly suggests to me that there is a future for American Heritage grapes. A Smithsonian article by Kevin Begos reports on the research quest for the first great American grape.

I love learning about new wines, and especially those wines that create intrigue, or surprise. Given their uniqueness these wines are getting attention. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties in North America and Europe. Now is the time (1) to explore the growing interest in native and hybrid grapes, and (2) to address the pending impact of climate change on wine making. Hence we need to be open to be grape-fully surprised. I invite you to join me in my wine country travels in search of those surprises at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

September 2021

Note: Recently, I have begun to explore Croatia's indigenous grape varieties. For sure Plavac Mali tops the list. Amanda Barnes notes that Croatia, with more than 140 indigenous grape varieties, and a wide range of climatic conditions, provides a diverse palette of flavors for wine lovers to explore.

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Bulgarian wine country travels leads to unique wine finds

2021-04-19T06:31:00.002-07:00

Maybe you have heard about Bulgarian wines? If not, are you curious to learn more, then I invite you to explore with me. You will be amazed! Bulgarian winemaking, with its modern state of art wineries, produces high quality wines from indigenous grape varieties like Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin, Gamza, Dimyat, and Red Misket (Misket Cherven). In addition, international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are also widely planted. During my Bulgarian wine travels I have enjoyed, not only getting to known its wine regions, but also the wines produced from its indigenous grape varieties. While some wine drinkers are content to stay within their comfort zone, now is a time to explore those unique wines. Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local grape varieties. I invite you on a journey into the unique wine world of Bulgaria.

Château Burgozone, Danube Plain, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Bulgaria's Wine World

Bulgarian wines are indeed a well kept secret! It is a country with a long tradition of winemaking. Wines from Ancient Thrace date back six thousands years. Cult of the god of wine “Dionysus” actually originated in Thrace. Thrace, an important geographical and historical region in Southeast Europe, is split among Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. The region is bounded by the Balkan Mountains to the north, the Aegean Sea to the south, and the Black Sea to the east. It includes southeastern Bulgaria (Northern Thrace), northeastern Greece (Western Thrace), and the European part of Turkey (East Thrace).

In the 1980's Bulgaria was one of the largest wine producers in the world. Following the collapse of communism wine production declined. As state run wineries were privatized and new wineries were established the rebirth of modern Bulgarian wine making began. These days Bulgaria's wine industry is buzzing with excitement. Now is the time to discover Bulgaria's wine regions, and some of its local wines. Since visiting in 2015 and 2017 I have enjoyed getting to know Bulgarian wines, the New Wines of Ancient Thrace. This post I will begin with an overview of the wine regions, followed by descriptions of its indigenous grape varieties.

Bulgaria's Wine Regions

Bulgaria's success is due to its vineyards sharing some of the same soil characteristics and latitude of famous wine growing regions in Bordeaux, the South of France, and Central Italy. Bulgaria has five wine regions, each with its specific terroir and climatic conditions, which are suitable for high quality winemaking.

1. Thracian Lowland (Thracian Valley)

The wine region includes the central part of the lowland, as well as parts of the Sakar Mountain. The area is characterized by a temperate continental climate and a favorable distribution of precipitation. Some of the most typical wines of this region include Mavrud, Rubin, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pamid. Bulgaria's Thracian Lowlands was listed by Wine Enthusiasts as one of the best wine destinations for 2017. My 2017 visit here included stops at Alexandra Estate and Villa Yustina.

1.1 Alexandra Estate's Rakitnitsa Vineyard, is a perfect setting for a vineyard lunch and a great introduction to Alexandra Estate wines.

Alexandra Estate began in 2012 with the purchase of 200 acres of prime vineyards (Oreshets Vineyard). Then in 2013 100 more acres (Rakitnitsa Vineyard) was added. In 2014 they began the establishment of a winery in Rakitnitsa, with design plans for a second winery in Oreshets village, Harmanli. What distinguishes Alexandra Estate wines is that they follow organic and biodynamic farming methods.

The Rakitnitsa Vineyard sits on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside, with village in the distance.

1.2 Villa Yustina, Ustina, 26 km from Plovdiv is located in one of the top up and coming wine regions in the world. This Central Thracian Lowlands winery is focused on the development of enotourism and the production of quality wines. It was indeed a pleasure for Spaswinefood to visit Villa Yustina in 2015 and 2017. What follows are some Villa Yustina wine moments.

This Thracian Lowlands Wine Region winery was founded in 2006. Their Gorkata Vineyards in the northern foothills of the Rhodope Mountains are within the Thracian Valley PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). The grape varieties grown in their vineyard includes: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Traminer, Aligote, Semillion, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. They also grow indigenous grape varieties, such as Mavrud and Rubin.

When we arrived at Villa Yustina in 2017 we were greeted by Enologist Krassimira Kodukova. She took us on a brief tour of the winery before tasting the wines. Our tour included a quick stop at the tanks, and viewing the barrel room, the bottling area and the wine library. Villa Yustina is a very modern winery, equipped with the latest in wine technology. All in all, the very quick walk through was well worth getting aquatinted with the winery’s operations.

2. Rose Valley (Valley of Roses)

The region is located south of the Balkan Mountains (Stara Planina) and produces dry wines (predominantly white ones). Rose valley is the birthplace of Red Misket (Misket Cherven). It is a white variety grape, which produces white wine, but has a pinkish skin color, slightly aromatic Muscat type of grape, which produces exclusively dry wine. Among the international grape varieties grown in this area are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.

In 2015 I visited Chateau Copsa, a wine chateau, just 60 km. from Plovdiv. Chateau Copsa is located in Bulgaria's Rose Valley Wine Region. The Rose Valley is the number one producer of rose oil in the world, plus wine is one of the valley's main industries. Moreover, the area is also known as the Valley of the Thracian Kings because of the tombs and other treasures found there. This mysterious society worshipped wine. There have been many changes in the wine world since then.

Rose Valley's Chateau Copsa is part of the rebirth of wine making in Bulgaria. This wine region, South of the Balkans has two sub-regions east and west. The Rose Valley Wine Region is known for its dry and off-dry white wines, and to a less extent red wines. The most popular wines include Muscatel, Riesling, Rkatsiteli, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Note: Rkatsiteli, a pale skinned white grape, is mostly planted throughout Georgia and surrounding Eastern European countries such as Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova, Ukraine, and even Russia (at one point it accounted for 18% of all Soviet wine).

Enroute to Chateau Copsa we made a short stop in the small town Karlovo. Karlovo in Plovdiv Province is a picturesque town of historical significance. Part of this historical significance is that the first Thracian capital was located near here. It was a relaxing, pleasant sunny afternoon, just perfect for a walk through the center of Karlovo. It was warm and leaves were beginning to change, kittens were playing near an old church. Absolutely perfect for a stroll through town. After our walk we continued onto Chateau Copsa, a perfect wine country retreat.

We arrived mid-afternoon at Chateau Copsa, a family owned winery estate. Chateau Copsa sits on a small hill overlooking the Village of Moskovets. Built in 2005 the chateau's architecture is in the style of castle from the early Middle Ages. During our wine country retreat at Chateau Copsa I got a glimpse into enotourism in the Rose Valley.

Our stay began with a tour of the castle and the wine cellar. Next, we checked into our accommodations in the Chateau Copsa Complex.

3. Danube Plain

This region encompasses the south banks of the Danube River and is characterized by temperate continental climate, hot summer and sunny days. Typically cultivated vines in this region are Merlot, Pamid, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamza, as well as Muscat Ottonel. June 2017 I visited Château Burgozone.

A Château Burgozone Welcome

Often when you arrive at a winery there is a welcoming drink waiting. However, being offered bread upon arrival at Château Burgozone was so very special. It is a Bulgarian tradition to welcome guests with bread. Château Burgozone, a family owned, boutique winery is perched on the southern banks of the Danube River, overlooking Esperanto Island. The winery takes its name from the Roman fortress, which was once located at the border of the wine estate. The fortress provided protection for the Roman Empire from invasions coming from the north. Today Château Burgozone welcomes its invaders with bread and wine.

It was a beautiful spring day when we visited Château Burgozone, Leskovets, near the town of Oryahovo. Yes, it was a long bus trip from Sofia (180 km). We passed through beautiful mountain landscape, and lowland fields before reaching the Danube River plains. Before leaving Sofia, this Spaswinefood enthusiast knew I was going to Château Burgozone, which won The Golden Winery of Bulgaria in 2016. However, what I gained from the visit is that Château Burgozone has an amazing sense of place.

Château Burgozone Estate, Danube Plain

Château Burgozone is located in the Danube Plain Wine Region. The Danube Plain is one of the most important wine regions in Bulgaria, with its vineyards accounting for 30% of vineyard production. Historically wine production in the region has always been important, and has survived many challenges. In fact, even during the Ottoman times, many villages were granted special statutes to allow wine production and selling.

Château Burgozone’s wine estate has geographic coordinates and ecological conditions similar to Tuscany, Côtes du Rhône and Bordeaux, those world-famous European wine-producing regions. The Danube Plain is known for its fresh varietal white wines and rich red wines. The best-known grape varieties from this area include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Muscat and Gamza. The main grape varieties grown at Château Burgozone include: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Marcela, Merlot, Egiodola, Gamza, and Tamjanka.

4. Black Sea Region

Influenced by the Black Sea, this region is characterized by mild autumn, which makes it suitable for the cultivation of white wines with strong concentration of sugar. Dimyat, Muscat Ottonel and Sauvignon Blanc are among the most commonly cultivated vines here. Amongst the red wines the star is Pinot Noir. While I have tasted wines from here I have yet to visit this region.

5. Struma River Valley

This region includes the valley of the River Struma and is part of the historical Region of Macedonia. The climate typical of this region is Mediterranean with mild, rainy winter and hot summer. This wine region situated between the Pirin Mountains and the Struma River. It is a small but a very significant wine region in Bulgaria. The region’s significance is in part due to the indigenous grape Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik) that is found in this area, near the Greek border. Typical grape varieties, which are commonly cultivated in this region, include Melnik, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In 2015 and 2017I visited many wineries in this region. I will highlight two wineries known for producing wines from indigenous grapes.

5.1 Villa Melnik

Villa Melnik Winery, Harsovo is a boutique family-owned winery. I have toured their vineyards, modern facilities, and underground cave-like cellars a number of times. The winery has the same name as an indigenous grape variety, Melnik found in this wine region. Interestingly, the grape was named after the nearby town of Melnik. It was my 2015 introduction to Struma Valley wines that inspired me to return to Bulgaria to continue my New Wines of Ancient Thrace journey. There is a long tradition of wine making in Bulgaria's Struma River Valley. A revival of wine making in this wine region has resulted in several new, modern wineries, such as Villa Melnik Winery being built. Their wines include international and indigenous varieties (Broadleaf Melnik, Melnik 55, Mavrud). Villa Melnik wine series include Special Wines, Apaulz, Bergulé, Family Tradition, and Young Wines. During my 2017 visit I was happy to discover that the winery has received many awards for its wines. My most recent wine tastings at Villa Melnik included both international and indigenous varieties (Broadleaf Melnik, Melnik 55, Ruen and Mavrud).

5.2 Sintica Winery

In 2015, as we headed back to Sofia, Bulgaria from the Struma Valley, we made one last stop at the Sintica Winery in Sandanski. From a wine history perspective this stop was indeed an interesting visit. The winery is located on what once was the site of an Experimental Agricultural Centre in Southwestern Bulgaria. In the late 70's it was renamed Complex Experimental Station (CES). CES became known as a botanical site of rare and exotic plants, and an experimental vineyard. Moreover, it established a reputation for the grape hybrids and the wines produced there. After democratization CES faded into obscurity. In 2006-07 three wine enthusiasts developed a private wine cellar on the site, 2008 was their first year of wine production. It was exciting to visit a winery so rooted in wine history.

Sintica Winery, Sandanski takes its name from an old Thracian tribe in the region. Old archaeological ruins have been found in the nearby mountains from this period. The former state run experimental centre is where the unique grape varieties of Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), Melnishki Rubin, Melnik Jubilee 1300, Melnik 82, Sandanski Misket and others were created.

It was this facility that created Melnik 55, which Sintica Winery still produces as a wine. Today the winery's portfolio includes mainly international varieties. Their focus is on producing premium quality wines.

Grape Varieties Unique to Bulgaria

Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local varieties. I invite you to begin a journey into Bulgaria's unique wine world.

Mavrud

Considered to date back to Ancient Thrace times, Mavrud is a red wine grape, which for centuries has been exclusively grown in the region of the ancient Filippopolis, north of the Rhodoppe Mountains. Mavrud comes from the Greek word (mavro) meaning black. The wine made from this grape has a dark ruby color. This variety is normally used for making dark wines with deep color and soft taste. It has been described as having high tannins and excellent acidity. On the palate it tends to be spicy, with stewed fruit and herbal flavors. Its cultivation is difficult and requires special dedication.

However, the unique quality of the wine made of Mavrud is worth the effort!

This Edoardo Miroglio wine is from the Thrace Region.

I have also tasted some barrel samples of Mavrud at Villa Melnik.

Melnik

The Melnik is a red grape variety, grown in the region of the Struma valley, which is characterized with Mediterranean climate. According to a legend, the wine made of Melnik vine was among the favourite wines of Winston Churchill. This variety can produce increasingly powerful wines with rich texture, exotic perfume and soft tannin. This particular wine does well in oak. Wines produced from these grapes have been compared to Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Melnik two variations include:

1. Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik), a Bulgarian red grape variety found near Melnik in the Struma River Valley.

2. Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), a hybrid Bulgarian grape developed because the Broadleaf Melnik grape often ripens late when the weather is cold and damp. The hybrid was produced using Valdiguié pollen.

Wines made from Melnik grapes are highly valued for its full-bodied flavor, ruby-red color, and its aging potential.

Sintica Winery, the former state run experimental centre is where the unique grape varieties of Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), Melnishki Rubin, Melnik Jubilee 1300, Melnik 82, Sandanski Misket and others were created. The winery still produces Melnik 55, which I got to taste during a 2015 visit.

Villa Melnik produces an interesting blend of Melnik (Villa Melnik, Bergulé Melnik & Pinot Noir 2014).

From their Apaulz series I tasted their Melnik 55 and Cabernet Sauvignon. I also tasted some barrel samples. There was also a Broadleaf Melnik 2015.

I was very impressed by the overall quality of Villa Melnik red wines. I particularly liked their Melnik 55, and the red wine blends with the indigenous grape varieties. YES, the barrel samples were amazing.

Gamza

Cultivated since ancient times, the grape variety of Gamza, also known as “Kadarka”in many Balkan countries, is best grown in the Danube region. It produces vivid red wines with pleasant fruit taste and distinct freshness. This variety requires very specific climate conditions, which is why it is predominantly cultivated in the region of the Danube valley. During my wine travels in Hungary and Romania I have encountered Kardarka.

Dimyat

Known for its aromatic grapes, Dimyat has been grown for centuries in the Black Sea region. Dimyat wines have a sweet taste, strong aroma and light color. The grapes of Dimyat ripen in late September. This grape variety is the most popular one in the Black Sea Region.

Dimyat is known to produce fresh, tasty wines. It can also be matured in oak. Recent DNA suggests it to be a crossing of Gouais Blanc and another unknown grape variety. 

Pamid

This ancient pink-skinned grape variety, is extensively planted in eastern Europe, and native to Bulgaria. According to the legends, ancient Thracians have been very keen consumers of Pamid wines, characterized with pleasant light and fruit taste. While it has been widely cultivated by Thracians over a number of centuries, nowadays it continues to be grown specifically in the region of the Thracian valley. It produces medium-sized bunches of small berries. They have thin skins, which helps to explain the variety's lack of tannins, color and flavor concentration. Pamid grapes reach good sugar levels, but lack acidity, hence the wines are best drunk young before they become unbalanced. Pamid is typically used in the production of light red wine designed for early consumption. These wines might be considered the Bulgarian version of Beaujolais wines. It can also made into blends, and rosé wines with a hint of residual sugar. Wines made from this variety are popular in domestic markets, with very limited demand for export. Do be surprised if its demand picks up in the future. Popular food pairings with Pamid include meatballs, soba-noodle salad with scallions, and cured meats.

Rubin

It is a successful cross between Syrah and Nebbiolo. A dark blue-colored wine grape variety, Rubin is the mostly planted in the Thracian valley region. Rubin vines, planted along the Thracian Valley and bordered by the Strandzha Mountains, tend to produce wines with explicitly rich taste and color. If you get the opportunity to taste them. Rubin is also used in the production of rosé wine.

Ruen

Ruen, an almost extinct cross between Melnik (Broad Leaved Melnik Vine) and Cabernet Sauvignon, which was created in Pleven, Bulgaria in 1951, and officially released in 1964. Just like the Rubin grape variety, Ruen is only cultivated in the Struma River Valley. It is an expressive wine that has described as having flavors of black cherry, liquorice, cigar and nuts.

Villa Melnik, Ruen 2015 © Spaswinefood

Ruen, a cross between Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik) and Cabernet Sauvignon, is an inviting wine.

Red Misket

Red Misket (Misket Cherven), an old local variety, is a white wine grape, with a pinkish skin color. The grapes are small and have pinkish-red to violet color. The wine is typically dry, straw-yellow in color, and often has some green nuance.

Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local grape varieties. I invite you to begin your journey into that unique wine world of Bulgaria, the New Wines of Ancient Thrace. Perhaps it is time you try Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin or Gamza? I would highly recommend that you take the opportunity to try Bulgarian wines made with native wine grapes. Just be open to change, and you might fall in love with these wines. I invite you to check out my travels in Bulgaria and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Fall 2015 & Spring 2017

Sofia, Bulgaria

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Paris wine sips: Bonvivant and onwards

2021-04-14T13:39:00.003-07:00

Paris in the spring, it is hard to beat sipping wine with friends in Paris, in the springtime. After visiting France’s Champagne Region Spaswinefood and a friend spent a week in Paris. Given it is impossible to visit all the top wine bars in a week, I decided to savor those wine moments we spent at Bonvivant, and on our other wine sipping outings. Come along with me, as we sip French wines in Paris.

For sure Paris is the place for Champagne Moments! Besides Champagne it is also tops for sipping other French wines. The wine culture of Paris is hard to beat.

We began our Paris wine sips at Bonvivant.

Sipping Wine at Bonvivant

We (Carol and I) met with a friend at Bonvivant wine bar in the Latin Quarter for dinner. This was not just any friend, but Girl Meets Glass who lives in Paris.

It was fabulous evening, getting insights into the Paris wine scene from Tanisha at Bonvivant.

For dinner that evening we choose a Michel Gindrier biodynamic white wine.

Domaine Des Huards, Cour-Chverney Romo 2015

I loved this wine, particularly how it evolves, from first to last sip. This was a super delicious wine from start to finish. We totally enjoyed our experience at the Bonvivant, and I would highly recommend it.

Paris Wine Adventures Continued

1. Passarito

After our Bonvivant outing our Paris wine adventures continued. A #winelover friend recommended that we visit Passarito, a wine bar, that offers Portuguese and French wines. Naturally, we went.

When we dropped by for lunch we were not disappointed.

We ordered a Buffalo Green Tomato Salad, and a Provence rosé wine from their wine list.

I loved this rosé wine with the heirloom tomato salad. Later, I would discover that heirloom tomatoes with peaches pairs well with most dry rosé wines.

Perhaps, if time permitted I would have tried their Portuguese wines, many of which I know and love.

This wine bar is a charming place. If you you are looking for a warm, cross-cultural wine experience in Paris, then drop by Passarito.

2. Other Wine Sipping Opportunities
Whether we were hopping on and off the metro, or walking through the Latin Quarter, or Saint-Germain neighborhoods, we enjoyed those random wine moments out and about in Paris.

There were many times when I ordered a Provence rosé wine. One of those times was at a nearby tapas and bistro, Dans Les Landes where we sat street side.

Dans Les Landes was perfect spot for street side dining near our hotel. Another evening, we popped into the nearby Café Tourn'Bride for dinner.

We enjoyed some rosé wine with dinner at Café TournBride.

You will never have enough time during a week's stay to get to know all the best stops in the Latin Quarter, or nearby Saint Germain.

I welcome all the opportunities to sip French wines, like over lunch at Le Procope.

Then of course, there were those wine moments we missed at places, like Desvouges.

When in Paris put Bonvivant on your wine sipping list. You will find that in Paris there is no shortage of other wine sips to add to your list. We enjoyed our visit to Ma Cave de Fleury. Go there for a different Champagne experience. Indeed it was a perfect timing for those Champagne Moments in Paris.Whether drinking Champagne, or sipping other French wines Paris in the spring never disappoints. This post is part of a series about our Paris wine adventures during late spring 2018. Typically there is plenty of sunshine, with occasional showers in the later afternoon, or evening. If you just happen to be in Paris, and would like to take a wine tour contact Girl Meets Glass. Still looking for more ideas then of course you can goggle best wine bars in Paris. I invite you to join me in my travels in France's Champagne Region and elsewhere in France at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Springtime in Paris, France

Remembering May/June 2018

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Champagne moments in Paris : Ma Cave Fleury Wine Bar and a few more wine sips

2021-04-11T15:20:00.000-07:00

For sure it is hard to beat sipping Champagne in Paris in the springtime. After visiting France’s Champagne Region Spaswinefood spent a week in Paris. Since it is impossible to visit all the top wine bars in a week, I have decided to savor those Champagne sips at wine bars, like Ma Cave Fleury, and those wine sips during our restaurant outings. Come along with me, as we sip Champagne at Ma Cave Fleury and other French wines in Paris. For sure are the sips in Paris were Champagne Moments!

While enjoying those wine sips of course we explored the sites of Paris.

While exploring Paris our wine sips took us to Ma Cave Fleury, known for its biodynamic wine.

Ma Cave Fleury: Biodynamic Champagne

Ma Cave Fleury is a Paris wine bar serving biodynamic Champagne, just perfect for natural wine lovers. This wine bar was a recommendation from a #winelover friend from our Mosel Valley travels.

The afternoon we visited we opted to do their wine flight offering for the day.

Our Champagne tasting included the following three biodynamic wines:

1. Champagne Fleury, Blanc de Noirs NV

2. Champagne Fleury, Rosé de Saignee Brut NV

This Champagne Fleury, Rosé de Saignee Brut is a biodynamic champagne developed by the saignée method, using Pinot Noir grapes.

Champagne Fleury, Rosé de Saignee Brut NV

3. Champagne Fleury, Brut Nature 2011

I like all three of the champagnes, especially their 2011 vintage. While we enjoyed sitting at a window seat, you can have a table street side, or inside the tasting room.

Given the wine bar's location on a street known for porn and prostitutes, Ma Cave Fleury is an interesting venue in which to enjoy France's most famous luxury product. Nevertheless, this is perhaps one of the best places in Paris to taste biodynamic Champagnes made by small producers. Ma Cave Fleury is well worth a visit for those interested in exploring quality grower's champagne in Paris. During your visit you might even get to met proprietor, Morgan Fleury.

Wine Sips Continued
Whether we were hopping on and off the metro, or walking through the Latin Quarter, or Saint-Germain neighborhoods, we enjoyed those random wine moments out and about in Paris.

There were many times when I ordered a Provence rosé wine. One of those times was at a nearby tapas and bistro, Dans Les Landes where we sat street side.

Dans Les Landes was perfect spot for street side dining near our hotel. Another evening, we popped into the nearby Café Tourn'Bride for dinner.

We enjoyed some rosé wine with dinner at Café TournBride.

You will never have enough time during a week's stay to get to know all the best stops in the Latin Quarter, or nearby Saint Germain.

I welcome all the opportunities to sip French wines, like over lunch at Le Procope.

Then of course, there were those wine moments we missed at places, like Desvouges.

For sure you will find many opportunities for sipping Champagne and other wines in Paris. If you are looking for organic Champagne then it is hard to beat Ma Cave Fleury. This post is one in a series of posts on our Paris adventures. Indeed springtime is perfect for Champagne Moments in Paris. There is typically plenty of sunshine, with occasional showers in the later afternoon, or evening. If you just happen to be in Paris, and would like to take a wine tour contact Girl Meets Glass. I invite you to join me in my travels in France's Champagne Region and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Champagne Memories, Springtime 2018

Paris, France

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Those earlier days in Sicily: The Valley of the Temples, Agrigento

2021-04-05T09:50:00.000-07:00

It has been awhile but, I still fondly remember that drive from Etna to the Valley of the Temples, Agrigento. We passed by olive gardens, and ever changing landscape along the way. After we arrived in Agrigento we checked into Hotel Villa Athena, right next door to the Temple of the Gods. During our travels through Sicily we stayed mostly at B&B's. However, when we became aware of the opportunity to stay next to the Temple of the Gods ruins, we decided to splurge. Another pleasant surprise, we found out after we checked-in was, we had a room overlooking the ruins. I so love remembering those earlier days at Valley of the Temples, Sicily.

Valley of the Temples, Agrigento
After we checked into our room we enjoyed a glass of wine while viewing the amazing landscape near the hotel. The Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is located on ridge just outside the city of Agrigento. Once the site of the Greek city Akargas it includes the remains of seven temples. It is one of the best examples of Greater Greek art and architecture.

Look! The Valley of the Temples is Next Door

Right from the moment we entered the gates at Villa Athena it was indeed special. Moreover, when we arrived we were most delighted to discover that our room overlooked the ruins. It is not everyday that you get to sleep with a view of Greek ruins from your bedroom window.

Dining near the Temples
Lunch that day was special. We dined at the patio restaurant, La Terrazza Degli Dei (The Terrace Gods) with views of Temples Concordia and Juno. There amid the almond and olive trees, with such a stunning view our lunch began with a dry rosé wine. We ordered a caprese salad to share. We followed this by vegetable soup and eggplant pasta. Dining on the patio of La Terrazza Degli Dei overlooking the Valley of the Temples was indeed majestic.

We ordered a caprese salad to share.

We followed this by a vegetable soup and an eggplant pasta.

Dining on the patio overlooking the Valley of the Temples was indeed majestic.

After dining on the patio of La Terrazza Degli Dei overlooking the Valley of the Temples, it was not a difficult decision to return again, the next day, for lunch. Besides their Caprese Salad was hard to pass up.

Dining at La Terrazza Degli Dei was indeed, like dining with "the gods".

Later for dinner we dined in the Villa Athen's Granaio di Ibla restaurant.

Our appetizer choice was perfect.

For main dishes we selected the following:

We selected a chocolate dessert.

We loved both dining experiences. Whether it was the patio restaurant, La Terrazza Degli Dei (The Terrace Gods) with views of Temples Concordia and Juno, or Hotel Villa Athena's other restaurant, Granaio di Ibla, where you can enjoy fine dining.

Majestic Views from Villa Athena

There are no words to describe what it feels like to stay next door to the Valley of the Temples. The views alone are stunning.

To be able to view the temples from our bedroom window was indeed special. Whether it was at night, or in the early morning these were magical moments.

When we walked through The Valley of the Temples there were also awesome views of Villa Athena and the city of Agrigento.

Throughout the temple area there are so many beautiful olive trees.

From the temple grounds you can also see vineyards nearby.

It is impossible to imagine a more perfect setting than staying next door to The Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi) in Agrigento. UNESCO World Heritage site, The Valley of the Temples, is located on ridge just outside the city of Agrigento. Once the site of the Greek city Akargas it includes the remains of seven temples. The beauty and magic of this archaeological site just might absolutely spoil you big time. Yes, Hotel Villa Athena is an ideal location to stay while visiting the Valley of the Temples.

Our visit to the Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi), Agrigento was indeed magical. The beauty and magic of this archaeological site just might absolutely spoil you big time.

We left early in the morning, after a delightful stay in Agrigento at Hotel Villa Athena, an ideal location adjoining The Valley of the Temples. Yes, it was hard to leave such a special place. After a three day stay, we boarded our rented car and traveled across Sicily to Cefalú. There we would spend the weekend before boarding a flight back to France. I so love remembering those earlier days in Sicily. Our November 2014 two week exploration of (Palermo-Ortigia, Siracusa-Zafferana, Etnea-Agrigento-Cefalú-Palermo) was amazing. You can check out my travels in Sicily and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Remembering The Valley of the Temples
Agrigento, Sicily

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