Velvet Coat with Fur Trim

I had the pleasure of restoring a coat for Ms. Riley Do Right.  The silk lining was desperately in need of repair.  Luckily there was enough lining and underlining left to make a pattern.  [Pro Tip:  Don't throw away a shredded lining. Having a replacement made will be much cheaper if you have something, even shreds of something to make a pattern from.]

This restoration project was rather time consuming because the lining had to be hand stitched to the jacket (From start to finish, the project took 5 hours).  I didn’t want to chance ruining the velvet.  Other than the lining this jacket was in near mint condition.

One of the most interesting parts of the jacket was the inside pocket.  My friend Krista coined the term pocketry (best if pronounced in a British accent) when we worked together. I will define it as the craftsmanship involved involved in the construction and installation of pockets. I’ve never seen a pocket that was shaped like this before.  I had come across the featherstitch-like hand work in other garments from that era.

Check out flickr for the rest of the photos from the reconstruction.

Reproduction and Original Pockets

Starting this week, you can find me inside The Fabricker’s shop at 4631 Airport Blvd #119 on Fridays and Saturdays from 12-7pm. I am available by appointment on Sundays and Mondays.

Feel free to contact me via email clothinghospital [at] spinsta [dot] net or you can call me at (512-693-7553)

or to keep up with sales and other happenings.

I was looking back at previous posts and I realized that I hadn’t put up a picture of my jacket from 2009.  It’s the same pattern as my “Winterized Jacket” .  The outer is a poly-cotton blend and the lining is a wool blend.

The buttons down the front are more than decorative.  There are tabs that go across.  The jacket ended up looking a little “Sgt. Pepper” with them on so I decided to take them off.

The front facing isn’t attached to the lining.  One of these days I intend to add an extra lining that zips or buttons to the facing.

As previously mentioned… The plan was to cut up a charcoal grey, felted wool circle skirt and make a capelet. I had just enough for the body of the cape but not enough for a collar and facing.  Luckily, I had a mountain of cashmere sweaters at my disposal.  The plan was to use McCall’s 5764 and modify it to include a lining (why are all of my patterns unlined?)

The key to using cashmere as a collar and facingwas to back it with fusible knit  interfacing to make it more stable.  The other option would be to felt the cashmere (I only had one grey sweater to work with so I chose interfacing).

The lining was new.  I didn’t have anything that worked so I bought a remnant from JoAnn’s.  I used frogs for the closure.

Copyright: Jeffery Washington Photography

I am a bit behind on posting my projects. On the left is my costume for Superhero Soul Night at Gypsy House Party. Back in August, I was hanging out with some friends when the theme was proposed.  Hmm… Black Superheroes…  I could have gone with Storm from X-men (the comic version with the mohawk)  or Eartha Kitt’s Catwoman .  Instead I thought of the most bad ass women on the planet,  Pam Grier.  Her characters may not have had super powers but she was definitely a force to be reckoned with.

Foxy Brown was my Super Heroine of choice.  Due to lack of photos of her iconic red jumpsuit on the interwebs.  I decided to order Fox in a Box, the 3-dvd box set with Foxy Brown, Coffy, and Sheba Baby. My jumpsuit isn’t an exact copy.  I couldn’t pull off the plunging keyhole neckline.

For my version I used stretch satin (so soft and shiny). It was a 2-way stretch and the pattern called for a solid.  I ended up cutting it a little smaller.  Simplicity 2401 was the pattern I ended up with.  I could have faked a jumpsuit by frankenpatterning my halter dress with my wide-legged trousures, but I didn’t have the time to mess with it.  Besides, the pattern was on sale for $1.99.  I nixed the ruching on the back panel.  I probably could have skipped the invisible zipper on the side as well.

One of these days I will find a small toy gun to hide in my afro.  Until then, stay Foxy.

I had purchased the fabric years ago thinking that I was going to make a rain coat.  I picked out a Vogue trench coat pattern and never got around to cutting it out.    The outer is a poly blend.  The lining is wool.  I used McCall’s pattern M6209.  The pattern didn’t call for a lining, but is wasn’t hard to add one in.  I ran out of wool, so the scarf is only lined around the neck of the cape.  I am still debating if I want to add slits for a belt. I am also looking for a nice clasp to put at the neck.

All I need to complete the look is a nice felted wool hat and some brown boots.

For those of you who haven’t worked on plus-sized clothes, especially tailored plus-sized clothes, there are A LOT of curves. My advice to you is ease your seams.  Most of the time you end up pinning two pieces together and one will be longer than the other.  Start pinning from the straightaway and ease around the curve like you would for an inset sleeve.   Savannahred’s curves weren’t that dangerous.  Check out what Threads Magazine had to say on princess seams.

Now for the tricky fabrics.  Somehow I was tasked with finishing the edges on some beaded lace.  Don’t try this with a serger boys and girls.  It won’t work.  The best way to finish the seams would be to do a french seam.  The second best way would be a double stitched seam.  This way you won’t have excess visible threads.  Check out what Sew Stylish Magazine has to say on finishing sheer fabrics.

One last tip.  Mind your threads.  If you unpick seams, use a lint roller to clean up before you stitch.  It will save you time later.  Clip threads as you go to avoid missing them when the garment is finished.

The last month of transitions was rough (the last 6 months of engineering this plan was rough). I think everything is in order. I have health insurance, a dba, a new bank account, and I applied for a sales tax permit. I managed to get it all done before Mercury went into Retrograde (I am not into astrology, but it is more than coincidental that something in my life goes wrong during this time).

What’s on Tap for December? I’ve already crossed off decorating for xmas. I need to convince Scout that napping is a good thing (she is opposed to sleeping in general). Getting my business stuff in order for filing taxes. Making a suit for M. Writing. Reading the stack of books on my nightstand. Researching bands for SXSW [BTW. They released the third round of artists.] Working with Savannahred on her plus sized clothing line.

I am only taking alterations through Frock On Vintage (unless you made a prior arrangement with me).  I have a ton of projects to catch up on.

I  dropped off a repair job at Amelia’s and caught up with Jane.  Then I headed off to Cypress Vanguard for the Courtyard Sale and some much needed networking.

I spent some time chatting with April, owner of Fabricker, a new fabric store that is about to open town.  I told her that I was looking forward to the store front location.  I am currently grounded from buying fabric for myself (I must use what I have first).  However, I am allowed to purchase fabric for my clients.  April has had a few pop up events in town.  The next one will be the weekend of November 18th.

I roamed around the downstairs at Cypress on a mission.  Today I was going to buy myself a much deserved present.  The number of artists has doubled since my last visit.  It was a little overwhelming.  After catching up with Megan she send me outside to check out the sample sale.

SCORE!  After trying on several rings, I ended up with a chiasolite ring from Teresa Basa Design and I found the other part of M’s birthday present at Elizabeth Crandal Jewelry.

You can click the link to read all ten.  Here are my picks…

1.) Check The Condition
“Always inspect vintage garments. You’re buying as-is merchandise… Just remember that you get what you pay for. If something is ripped or threads are loose and the lining is falling out, factor in what the cost would be to have it repaired, before purchasing.”

This doesn’t really affect me.  If I find a bargain I am willing to fix it.

2.) Check For Stains & Odors
“Hold the garment in natural light to check for any stains. If there are stains under the arms, pass. These stains and odors are set and cannot be removed… Oxiclean is the industry choice and can help remove difficult set-in stains.”

But some things are worth the extra work.  I have been able to remove odors with  Oxiclean, line drying, and bounce dryer sheets.  Pit stains are hit or miss.  sometimes the sleeve/armhole must be removed/replaced.

3.) Know What Eras Work Best For Your Body Type
Hourglass and plus sizes:
“The ‘50s and early ‘60s celebrated a shapely hourglass figure like those of Marilyn Monroe and Sophia Loren. Cinched waists, fitted cardigan sweaters, or pencil skirts and capri pants make an hourglass figure stand out. Many ‘80s styles can flatter the hourglass shape, too.”
Pear:
“A-line dresses from the ‘60s are flattering on pear shapes, but pay attention to the length and fabric. Longer skirts from the ‘70s have an elongating effect. A long skirt combined with a fitted top really work well for pear shapes. Maxi lengths are a good choice, too, and, now they’re back in style.”
Apple:
“An ample bust and shapely legs are juicy assets, so pick one to show off. Any decade that didn’t emphasize the waist will flatter this body shape, including the ‘30s, ‘60s, and ‘70s.”
Rectangle:
“Flapper styles form the ‘20s and ‘30s and straight ‘60s mod styles were made for this Twiggy-like body shape. Any waist or bust line emphasis is not the best silhouette for super-skinny or boyish bodies.”

4.) Try It On
“Always try on vintage pieces since the size on the tag will not correlate to today’s sizing. Ignore size labels — they are not consistent throughout the decades. You may have heard that Marilyn Monroe was considered a size 12 in the ’50s, but with today’s vanity sizing would have been a size 6 in this era. I recommend trying items on or to measure them before purchasing.”

I wrote about size this weekend.  Try it on or know all your measurements.

5.) Dress In Layers While Shopping
“Wearing layers makes it easier and faster to try on clothing. Wearing a dance leotard or leggings and a camisole under a skirt makes it possible to try on clothes even without a dressing room. This comes in handy at flea markets and garage sales.”

…or at clothes swaps.  Dress in layers and toss modesty out the window.

6.) Always Go Bigger
“Finding vintage clothes that are a perfect fit is usually not possible, but if you find something you adore and it is too big for you, that can work. Larger sizes can usually be taken in and tailored to fit depending on the fragility of the fabric and the construction. Smaller sizes rarely have enough extra room in the seam allowance to make it larger.”

I cringe at having someone ask me about letting out garments.  Most modern garments are not cut for tailoring.  Seam allowances are removed when the edges are finished off.

9.) Be The Early Bird
“To get the most coveted items at estate sales and flea markets, the old saying still rings true. The best pieces are snapped up first, so get there early if you want to compete with the pros.”

I am first in line at thrift stores and estate sales.  Some vendors will let you help set up.  I highly recommend that route.  You can shop early.

10.) Love It? Don’t Lose It!
“Losing out on a rare vintage item that you might never see again is a tough part of the vintage-buying game. So if you love it, buy it!”

I saw several people with that approach last weekend at the store. A few people got to the register and turned back to grab the item they were on the fence about.