Spirit of Wine

**+ $ La Mano Mencia Roble, 2006, Bierzo, Spain - Review and Rating

2009-07-16T21:13:00.005-04:00

Review: La Mano Mencia Roble is a dry red wine made from the local Mencia grape. This version is from the 2006, harvested from vineyards in Bierzo, Spain, in the northwest portion of the country. The wine was aged for three months in American oak - which will lend a firmer oak "hand" in a finished wine. Alcohol comes in at 12%.

In the glass, La Mano Mencia Roble is deep burgundy red, moving to opaque away from the edges. Served immediately after opening, upon swirling, the aromas are bold of black cherry and oak.

On the palate, there is a smooth, full, deep middle of minerally cherry. The oak note is definitely there as well. Acids seem to battle with the smooth middle, not really balancing it. Tannins appear light indeed. Pleasant enough, though seems a bit jangly and ragged overall. Not sure that extra time would help, given the absence of a strong tannin backbone.

Two stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its aromas and overall pleasantness. Robert Parker of Wine Advocate awarded 90 points, which makes him a fair amount more enthusiastic than was I. Decent value at its price.

Find La Mano Mencia Roble at WineZap.

*** $ Vinha Conchas Red (Tinto), 2005, Quinta da Cortezia, Estremadura, Portugal - Review and Rating

2009-07-16T18:48:00.001-04:00

Review: Vinha Conchas Red (Tinto) is part of the Quinta da Cortezia line, hailing from the regional Portugal area of Estremadura. It is made from locally known grapes tinta roriz, touriga nacional and trincadeira. The vineyards are characterized by clay stone. Alcohol is modest - at 12.5 percent - and the wine comes to the United States at a value price.

In the glass, Vinha Conchas Red is quite deep red, almost mahogany. As I swirl the glass, aromas come swirling into the room. They are purply and bright.

When you sip, you first notice the bright red-fruit sweetness right at the front tip of your mouth. Like a fully ripe, sweet strawberry. Consistent candy strawberry and raspberry flows into your mouth. Very mild acids touch your cheeks. Tannins seem nonexistent at this point, a few years in bottle. So the finish, though quick, is sweet, clean and light.

I'd probably hold this to two stars, not being quite ready to chase a future bottle, but it gets a plus for outstanding balance and friendliness. I'll be curious with a bit of a decant, but doesn't really want any more bottle aging.

Think of this wine every place you'd consider a pinot noir - its style is consistent with pinot noir. Think a sip before dinner, or with savory turkey dishes, fish, etc. Good value.

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Following a LONG decant (almost three hours) this mellowed a bit further, adding excellent balance to the equation, and moving up to three stars out of five, and making it best value.

Find Vinha Conchas Red at WineZap.

**+ $ Ercavio Roble Tempranillo, 2005, Spain - Review and Rating

2009-07-15T19:02:00.003-04:00

Original review, April, 2008: In the glass, Ercavio Roble Tempranillo, 2005, is medium deep red, ruby at the edge.

Aromas are moderately powerful, mostly reminding of grape Kool-Aid with a pinch of oak dust.

On the palate, a hint of Welch's grape-aid remains, but wrapped in a comfortable robe of catchy tannins and a touch of acid. Fills the cavities of your mouth and brings those grapes into a long finish. Touch of blueberry. Two stars, because I wouldn't rush to seek it out again, with a plus for its promising finish.

Jay Miller of Wine Advocate was pretty enthusiastic, awarding 90 points, writing, "The 2005 Ercavio Roble is a remarkable value. Produced from 100% Cencibel (Tempranillo), this is a custom cuvee selected by importer Eric Solomon, and was aged for 5 months in French and American oak. Purple colored, with fragrant spice box, tobacco, blueberry, and blackberry aromas, this full-bodied effort has gobs of ripe fruit, a firm structure, and a 40-second finish, not bad value for a sawbuck. Although this well-made wine will surely evolve for 2-3 years, who will have the patience?"

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Updated review, June, 2009: Color and aromas are consistent with the tasting a year and a half ago, including the grape kool-aid elements. On the sip, the wine has settled into a dark, slightly acidic, blueberry-tinged entrant, with more acids and less tannins filling out the healthy finish. Matured slightly, I'd still hold the Ercavio Roble Tempranillo at 2 plus stars. Still great for dry red grape juice fans. At one and a half stars above its price point, this hits good value status.

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**** $ Cerejeiras Tinto (Red Wine), 2007, Vinho Regional Estremadura, Portugal - Review and Rating

2009-07-14T19:54:00.001-04:00

Review: Cerejeiras is Portuguese dry red wine hailing from the Estremadura region. It comprises a blend of three mostly locally-known grapes: castelao, aragonez and tinta miuda. It comes in at a modest 12.5 percent alcohol, and we are tasting the Cerejeiras while it is still quite young.

In the glass, it is a medium bold red, suggesting red berries. Aromas are interesting indeed - mostly old-world and funky, rather than the sweet, plummy and clean that I expected. There is an old mustiness right up front in the nose - almost makes you reach for the anti-allergy tablets! It's wrapped in rich, old fruit though. The question is, how can a one year old wine act so mature?

Well, let's see by the palate if this is an infant or an octagenerian... On the palate, you notice a round, mature plummy fruitiness mingled with the must right in the middle of your upper palate. It glides smoothly along the tongue, reaching with the gentlest of tannins along the sides of your mouth into your cheeks. The finish is long, smooth and sweet. Cerejeiras is an easy-going infant masquerading as a senior citizen! Outstanding, intense, balanced, layered, enjoyable experience. Four stars on the Spirit of Wine scale. This is a crazy best value at its very modest price.

Because of the strong attitude of Cerejeiras in the glass, it may be easier to use as a sipping wine than with food. For food, pasta dishes may be among your best bets.

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***+ $ Post House Blueish Black, 2007, Stellenbosch, South Africa - Wine Review and Rating

2009-07-13T19:50:00.001-04:00

Explore South African Wine at Amazon

Review: Post House Blueish Black is a red meritage offering from vineyards of Stellenbosch, South Africa, a highly-regarded winemaking region. The selection was recommended to me as one of South Africa's best red wine values. It is a combinage of 38% shiraz, 26% pinotage, 19% cabernet sauvignon and 13% merlot. It tips in at a potent 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass, Post House Blueish Black is medium dark red - no purple highlights that I can spot, even in such a recent vintage. In fact, for that matter, no "blueish" or "black" highlights either!

Well, no matter - let's see what the wine itself brings... Aromas are bold: smoky, earthy with lusty fruit. In a word, robust. I hope the palate lives up to the promise.

Upon sipping, you notice a deep, smoky, slightly sweet fruit on the mid-palate. It follows with a just-slightly acidic, mild tannin robe along the sides of your mouth. Quite a balanced experience overall - and ready to drink despite its youthfulness. Three stars with a plus for its balance and character. Could age just a little to mellow.

Great introduction to a classical South African-style red wine at a bargain price.

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*** $ Luzon, (Finca Jumilla) 2006, Jumilla, Spain - Review and Rating

2009-07-12T18:59:00.002-04:00

Review: Luzon Jumilla Red Wine is from a family owned winery in the scenic valley of La Hoya de la Carrasca, southeast of Madrid, Spain. The region is characterized by warm days and cool nights, light rain and a chalky, gravelly soil.

In the glass, Luzon is medium deep red, with magenta highlights right at the edge of the glass. Aromas are hints of cherry candy, violets and helium, with a wisp of black smoke.

On the palate, the mid-palate comes first into prominence, with a bold, full stone-cherry fruit, somewhat lush with an alcoholic lift. Acids and light tannins mold out the experience, bringing just a light pucker to the cheeks. Finishes a bit hot, but the wine has stuffing to age for a couple more years. Generally works, and I would award three stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale.

Available at a bargain price point, the Luzon Red is a best value with its three stars.

Robert Parker awarded 88 points to the 2006 and wrote, "The 2005 Luzon is a blend of 65% Mourvedre and 35% Syrah that exhibits a dark ruby/purple color in addition to loads of blackberry and cassis fruit, good ripeness and richness, decent acidity, and a freshness undoubtedly due to the vineyards’ lofty altitudes of 2,000-2,300 feet. Consume it over the next several years"

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***+ $ Man Vintners Chenin Blanc (Steen), 2008, Coastal Region, South Africa - Review and Rating

2009-07-11T13:13:00.001-04:00

Review: The Man Vintners Chenin Blanc (Steen), 2008, hails from the Coastal Region of South Africa. It displays a bold alcohol level of 13.5%. It is part of the Man Vintners value line of South African wines, which have fared as excellent values elsewhere in Spirit of Wine.

The chenin blanc shows as nearly transparent in the glass, with a light yellow overall cast. The Man Chenin Blanc is served chilled, as per the label recommendation. Nonetheless, the aromas are bold and full, bringing sweet steely grasses, and elements of honeydew melon.

On sipping, it is your mid-palate that is treated to the first fruits of the experience - a smooth, rich, slightly butterscotchy flow reaches across your tongue and to the back of your mouth. It is clean and lightly honeyed, almost an element of honeycomb (dusty perhaps?). Served cool, no acids prick your cheeks, but they are hinted at by a high note on the finish, which is long, cool, clean and slightly tropical. Lacks intensity or layers, but is nicely balanced and composed. Three stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its accessibility and pleasantness.

Awesome bargain at the price.

Interesting fact: as the wine warmed a bit towards room temperatures, aromas intensified and a slightly more acidic backbone came through. I'd recommend serving just lightly chilled.

Wine Spectator awarded 87 points, writing, "Fresh, with lively honeysuckle, heather, blanched almond and mineral notes followed by a refreshing finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made."

Find Man Chenin Blanc at WineZap.

** $$ J Pinot Gris, 2007, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, CA - Review and Rating

2009-06-30T14:30:00.005-04:00

Review: The J Pinot Gris, 2007, from Russian River Valley in Sonoma, CA, comes from J Vineyards and Winery, which was founded in 1986 by Judy Jordan.

In the glass, it is pale yellow. Served cool, aromas are wet, of apple juice and sweet lemonade.

On sipping, the real action occurs right upfront, bringing crisp pear and lemon twist to the tongue. Touch of acids stirs the cheeks and it finishes slightly muddled and murky. Two stars but with a plus for youthful exuberance. Its challenge is that it shows the imbalance of youth as well.

**+ $ Indomita Cantus Melot, 2007, Maipo Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-29T19:05:00.001-04:00

Further explore Chile

Review: Vina Indomita makes an entire line of value-priced Chilean wines, called "Cantus". The Cantus Merlot - like the rest of the Cantus reds except for pinot noir - hails from the well-regarded Maipo Valley region of Chile. I tasted the Cantus Pinot Noir twice, giving it three stars out of five and thus earning it a "best value" tag at its low price point, so I'm reasonably enthusiastic about the merlot. This is especially so given merlot's higher recognition in Chile. But let's see what the wine holds...

In the glass, Cantus Merlot is deep, dark ruby red. Aromas are bold indeed: deep, roasty, sweet red berries, fragrant inside of helium balloon, touch of purple ink - yummy overall.

On the sip, the mid-palate is struck first with a sleek, lightly mineral rush of brightish red fruit. Like red currant and perhaps strawberry on the tongue, with flavors to the red currant side. A hint of black charcoal and associated burnt "twang". The 14.5 percent alcohol shows on the hot finish.

This was three or more stars from the bold aromas, but the unbalanced palate drives me back to two stars, with a plus - of course - for the exquisite aromas. This very young wine will need some serious decant time before my next sip.

Find Cantus Merlot at WineZap.

**+ $ Caracol Serrano Tinto Joven, 2005, Jumilla, Spain - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-28T19:29:00.001-04:00

Further explore Jumilla wine

Review: The Caracol Serrano Tinto Joven, 2005, from the well-regarded region of Jumilla, Spain, is a meritage of monastrell, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and small amounts of merlot and peit verdot. It is taken from the mountain area, with the vines said to be growing among other aromatic plants like thyme and rosemary.

In the glass, Caracol Serrano Jumilla is quite deep red, moving towards opaque right in the center. The nose is truly bold, with spicy, candy apple red predominating.

On the palate, it is more earthy than round, with a bright, almost raspberry middle, a bit of cheek-tightening acid and some still-notable tannins despite being bottled for three years or more. While a bit "bright and hot" for my taste, I'm just shy of three stars, giving two with a plus for its intriguing intensity. Perhaps its tight peaks will soften with a bit of decanting, or even more time in bottle.

Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate awarded 88 points, and said, "Dark ruby-colored, it has an expressive nose of earth, herbs, mushroom and garrigue, as well as ripe blackberries. This hedonistic effort has gobs of ripe fruit and spicy flavors in its surprisingly full-bodied personality. At the going price, this wine is a steal. Drink it over the next 1-2 years."

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Best Wine Values: Second Quarter of 2009

2009-06-28T13:42:00.005-04:00

What are the best wine values - and thus the best bargains - for the SECOND quarter of 2009? See how we select best value wines in this earlier article. We can't predict the type of wine you'll enjoy most. But choose one from one of these and you'll know you're getting great value. Number of stars represents quality level; number of dollar signs represents price level.

Click here to see the best wine values from the FIRST quarter of 2009.

Cheers!

*** $ Indomita Cantus Pinot Noir, 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

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**** $$ Starry Night Zinfandel, 2003, Wilderotter Vineyard, Amador County, CA - Wine Review and Rating

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***+ $ StarFire Zinfandel, 2006, Lodi, CA - Review and Rating

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*** $ Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda, 2007, Mendoza, Argentina - Wine Review and Rating

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*** $ Walnut Crest Chardonnay, 2006, Valle Rapel, Chile

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***+ $ Walnut Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Valle Rapel, Chile

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***+ $ Decker Merlot, 2003, Napa, CA - Wine Review and Rating

*** $ Caliterra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, 2005, Colchagua Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

Find Caliterra Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon at WineZap.

*** $ Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley 2006, Australia - Wine Review and Rating

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*** $ 2004 Di Majo Norante Sangiovese, Italy

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***+ $ Este de Bodegas Alta Almanzora, Vino De Mesa, Spain - Wine Review and Rating

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*** $ VI De Nulles Blanc, 2006, Tarragona, Spain - Wine Review and Rating

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***+ $ Loma Gorda, 2006, Almansa, Spain - Wine Review and Rating

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***+ $ Santa Ema Reserve Merlot, 2006, Maipo Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

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*** $ Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004, South Africa - Review and Rating

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***+ $$ Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, 2005, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, CA - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-27T19:17:00.001-04:00

Further explore Dry Creek Valley

Review: Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, 2005, is from the Schneider Vineyard of Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, CA. The Kelley Creek line, in fact, was created from an abundant harvest in 2005, which resulted in grapes becoming available from the vineyards of Sonoma County grape growers, Barbara and Dick Schneider. Kelley Creek is a tributary that runs through the Schneider's property in Western Dry Creek Valley into Dry Creek.

In the glass, Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, shows as medium dusty red. Aromas are modest and of deep fruit - a bit of alcohol "twang", showing the 14.6 percent alcohol level.

Your first sip is even and balanced - almost regal in its conservative yet lively nature. There is a solid, fur-encrusted dark cherry flavor, perhaps a touch of cocoa. It resolves to a lengthy, quite pure, mellow finish with a touch of sweet acid. Not much tannin grit, but a solid, full-bodied offering.

Not quite the power to wow me with four stars, but I will add a plus to its three stars for its true class.

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What is the Best Way to Preserve Opened Wines?

2009-06-22T21:57:00.005-04:00

Find Wine Preservation Systems

My good friend and colleague over at HDL Enhancement did an interesting study recently which looked at various options to preserve wines that had already been opened.

I encourage you to click on the study for details; short story was that putting the wine into smaller vessels which eliminated all air seemed to do the best job of preserving opened wines for a week or so, following by vacuum-pump methods. Putting the cork back in an empty bottle served the least purpose.

**+ $ Barefoot Merlot, NV, CA - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-19T19:18:00.001-04:00

Further explore merlot

Review: Barefoot Cellars, which talks about wine "without the attitude", also tends to deliver wine "without the information". Its merlot is from unspecified, mixed California vineyards, made in an unspecified way, bottled in unspecified years in bottles with no vintage date (and no date at all on the bottle except the 2003 copyright date from Barefoot Cellars).

So despite these those limited credentials, let's check out this "practically free" merlot: In the glass, it is medium-deep ruby red. Aromas are fruity, grapey and light, with just a hint of bramble or oak.

On the palate, the lightness rules, touching your palate easily with a soft raspberry center. It draws to a hint of cocoa on the relatively brief finish. At two stars, more in the nature of a house wine than an experience, but not objectionable in any way. Following a one-hour decant, the wine rounds and deepens a bit, offering a ripe cherry finish. This suggests the vintage may have been quite young, needing this air. I'll add a plus for pleasant, making this two plus stars out of five, actually quite good value for the bargain price.

Find Barefoot Cellars Merlot at WineZap.

*** $$ Finca Flichman Vino Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Mendoza, Argentina - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-18T21:49:00.001-04:00

Further explore Argentina wine

Original Review, November, 2007: Finca Flichman is an Argentinian vineyard managed by the Portuguese-based Sogrape group. This is a value-priced 100% cabernet aged six months in oak.

In the glass, this is a rather opaque dark medium red. Aromas are a rather generous rare roast beef, slightly bloody, with a touch of plum sauce.

On the palate, flavors touch the roof of your mouth first - purply plum resolving into tannins that drip lightly down the sides of your mouth. As the sip finishes, a lingering sweetness and touch of acid bring a reasonably long finish. Quite respectable now, and worth a try after a couple years of mellowing. A solid three stars out of five.

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Updated review, May, 2009: Color and aromas are consistent with prior tasting 1 1/2 years ago. The purply plum flavor, though, has resolved to a fulsome, lightly tannic ripe berry fruit. Consistent, lingering, sweet finish. Doesn't seem to need more age. But tannins are still there, suggesting that another year or two won't harm anything. Three stars still appropriate.

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***+ $$$$ Snows Lake One, Red Hills, Lake County, CA - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-17T19:25:00.005-04:00

Review: Snows Lake Vineyard "ONE" is a purebred cabernet sauvignon, 100%, hailing exclusively from vineyards in the Red Hills of Lake County. The grapes were grown to low yields, and here we are reviewing wine from the 2005 crop, characterized by a long and cool growing season. Snows Lake One was vinted in a 100% French oak, 64% of which was new.

In the glass, this is a dark-hued beast, still purple-tinged and young-looking, opaque through most of the glass. At 14.5% alcohol, you might expect that it would send its aromas sailing - and sail they do: solid deep vanilla, oak and deep classical cabernet fruit. Somehow, a touch of sweetness and caramel is also suggested in the nose.

On the palate, you find a rich, deep, structured, full frontal fruit as the first note. It carries a touch of tobacco in a thick underlying deep-blackberry matrix. A hint of acids and tannic base come along at the close. Clean sweet finish, just a bit hot of alcohol. Three stars because I definitely would enjoy Snows Lake One again, with a plus for its impressive potential with additional age.

Find Snows Lake wines here.

**+ $$ Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha (Grenache), Borja, Spain - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-17T19:23:00.001-04:00

Further explore Spanish wine

Original Review, November, 2007:

This is a Spanish grenache wine, harvested from old vines at a very low yield, two tons per acre - comparable to some of the lowest-yielding Napa vineyards. Still, this is available at a value price.

In the glass, this 2005 shows as a young, intense wine - deep, opaque red/black/purple. Aromas are quite intense, spilling from the glass. They speak of cherry candy-canes and a hint of oak.

Flavors of plums and bright cherry are the first notes on the palate, resolving to a modest finish that is more of acid than tannins. Sort of a toned-down, less sweet version of the Artazuri Garnacha, which I liked a bit better. I'll give this two stars out of five, since I wouldn't run out to buy another, but I'll add a plus for the appealing aroma and the possibility that it will open up a bit with additional airing.

Robert Parker was even more enthusiastic than I, giving the Borsao Tres Picos 91 points and writing, "This remarkably hedonistic wine has been a perennial Best Buy in the pages of this journal. The 2005 Tres Picos Garnacha is purple-colored with a cherry-scented nose that roars from the glass. It is intensely fruity, with terrific depth and concentration, oodles of sweet fruit, and terrific length. This wine, which can be likened to cherry pie in a glass, is an awesome value. Drink it over the next 1-2 years."

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Updated Review, May, 2009: This is still almost opaque in the glass, purple edges have not yet begun to brick. Aromas, still potent, have begun to "mush" a bit, more like muddled red cherry plus pea soup.

Sweetness and bright fruit have mostly drained from the palate, leaving a more subdued experience, except for the alcohol and raspberry acids. These lift everything, though not in my favorite way. I believe this peaked at my two stars plus rating - and it seems to be falling off with age, having just passed Robert Parker's recommendation that it be enjoyed within the first two year or so of its life.

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***+ $$$$ Snows Lake Two, Red Hills, Lake County, CA - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-12T16:34:00.010-04:00

Review: Snows Lake Two is a blend of Red Hills Lake County varietals - 73% cabernet sauvignon and 28% cabernet franc - grown in the Mayacamas Mountains area, in one of the highest regions of the North Coast. Not as well known for its own bottlings, the grapes of Snows Lake vineyards have been used in such higher-profile labels as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Cakebread Cellars, Rosenblum Cellars, La Famiglia, Cartlidge & Browne and Dynamite Vineyard.

In the glass, Snows Lake Two shows as deep magenta at the rim, opaque throughout the rest of the glass. Aromas really hurtle from the glass - classic, ripe aromas of deep cabernet fruit - chocolate, touch of black pepper, fully ripe plum, and clear evidence of oak aging.

As you sip, the front palate is most notable, bringing rich, balanced fruit up top, while tannins flush to the sides. The effect is of being cloaked in a sweet, dusty robe. Mountain tannins hold the intense flavors. Then the finish slowly lingers, lingers, lingers, fading to a clean wisp. Layered, balanced, rich - ready to drink. Still, I wouldn't be shy about putting it down for a few years, or decanting for an hour or so.

On an hour's decant, it smoothes further, staying lusty and balanced. Three stars - since I would come back to Snows Lake Two - with a plus for its impeccable balance. With some age, this has a good chance of gravitating to full four-star status.

Find Snows Lake wines here.

*** $ Indomita Cantus Pinot Noir, 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-09T18:47:00.001-04:00

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Review: I am such an easy mark when I am on a mission. My mission has been to sniff around the world for a couple of moderately-priced, high-value pinot noirs. I have tasted more bad pinot noirs (and red Burgundy's from France, which are pinot noirs from the Burgundy region) than I care to recount right now. But still, the hunt is on...

Today, we are moving to Chile in stalking this elusive game. The prey is Vina Indomita - a winery in Casablanca Valley that makes wine from grapes sources both from the Casablanca Valley (primarily for their whites, but also their pinot noirs) and from Maipo Valley (mostly for the non-pinot noir reds). Indomita itself farms 1,200 acres of vineyards - and also produces chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon... all of these are becoming increasingly common from these two regions in Chile.

Maipo Valley is located in central Chile, just south of Santiago in a region bound by the Andes Mountains to the east, the Coastal Range to the West, and the Maipo River to the north. Casablanca is located about 45 minutes north between Santiago and Valparaiso on the way to Viña del Mar.

Enough geography and anticipation... let's see what the wine itself delivers!

Review: Indomita Cantus Pinot Noir, 2007, Casablance Valley, Chile

Indomita's Cantus Pinot Noir, showing at 14.5 percent alcohol and poured from a screw cap bottle at cool room temperature, shows bright ruby red in the glass. Swirled at room temperature, it throws off bold, lollipop aromas. Not quite cherry, not quite raspberry - but surely reminiscent of chilhood pleasures. The alcohol also hits your nose, bringing a darker, more serious note.

On the palate, a pleasant flower attack shows first - something between violets and rose. It is sweet, fragrant, somewhat simple in the mouth, but pleasing to the cheeks. Finish is of sweet red cherries, fairly brief, but not showing the high alcohol content. As I would return to Cantus Pinot Noir, I award three stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale.

For its price, this is an outstanding value. For its price as a pinot noir, this is an unprecedented value. Might even stand up to a couple years of aging. I would recommend this to anyone who has sought bargain pinot noirs in the past and been horribly disappointed.

It certainly makes me intrigued by the rest of the Cantus varietal line.

Find Cantus Pinot Noir at WineZap.

** $ Meridian Vineyards Pinot Noir, 2007, Provincia di Pavia, Italy - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-08T19:18:00.001-04:00

Further explore Pinot Noir

Review: Meridian Vineyards Pinot Noir

The Meridian Vineyards Pinot Noir is a bargain-priced pinot noir that pursues a bit of sleight-of-hand. It's label says, "At home on our coast vineyards..." and its seal says, "Award Winning Coastal Vineyards", and the back label references Meridian Vineyards as being in Napa, CA.

But wait! What's this "Provincia di Pavia" at the very bottom of the front label?! Or the "Product of Italy" at the very bottom of the back label?! Well, it seems all is not coastal California with this pinot noir, is it? No indeed... this is imported juice from Italy, bottled in California. Interesting, if not entirely transparent, trick. I note that a number of retailer sites still (incorrectly) refer to this as a "California pinot noir". Perhaps because Meridian's earlier pinot noir vintages did, indeed, hail from the Central Coast of California.

In the glass, Meridian Pinot Noir is light ruby red, veering towards pink. Aromas from this young vintage are fruity, grapey-sweet like a cru beaujolais - light cherry and raspberry.

On the sip, a more acidic, just slightly leafy-vegetabley note emerges first. That comes to the cheeks and the top of the mouth - just a hint of faint sweet fruit comes forward. A touch of salinity on the finish, which is clean but crisp of acid. Two stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale.

Might mellow with another year in bottle, but I'm not compelled to explore it again. A sleight of hand that lost its audience, perhaps.

Find Meridian Pinot Noir at WineZap.

** $ Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008, Rheinhessen, Germany - Review and Rating

2009-06-07T18:02:00.001-04:00

Explore "Riesling" at Amazon

Review: What a challenging wine the German riesling is to get a handle on... start with the names alone: here we have the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken from Rheinhessen, Germany. Aw, c'mon, what's so difficult in all that?!

Well, let's start with the most notable clues: first you know it is a "Riesling". "Trocken" tells you the wine is dry; and "Kabinett" says it is made from just-ripened grapes, usually in a lighter style. So here you have it: a light, dry riesling. Everything else provides more particulars about the region, vineyard and winemaker.

In this case, the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken is a quite-affordable, widely-available style of dry riesling. We are trying a newly-released young bottling.

In the glass, it shows almost transparent, with just a vanilla cast. Served just cooler than room temperature, aromas show mild overgrown hay, with just a touch of funk, like the hay was cut a day or two ago. Acidic, citrus overtones are present too.

On the palate, you encounter a fully up-front experience, lemon and acid and very light sugar in the front of your mouth. The acids don't really clench your jaws, and the fruit doesn't really fill your palate. A lightly sweet, fairly dilute, lemonade-style riesling. Finish is fast, though clean.

Interesting experience, so two stars - not one I'd especially seek to repeat, so we can't give it a third star.

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*** $ Indomita Cantus Pinot Noir, 2007, Casablanca Valley, Chile - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-06T18:18:00.001-04:00

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Review: Indomita Cantus Pinot Noir

The Cantus Pinot Noir is part of a value-priced line of wine from Cantus, part of Vina Indomita in the midst of the well-known Casablanca Valley region of Chile. The pinot noir shares Casablanca Valley with the white wines, while the other Cantus reds hail from Maipo Valley.

As my earlier posts have made clear, good value-priced pinot noirs are rare indeed. The promise of other reds in the Cantus line give me a (hopefully correct) optimism about the pinot noir. But let's see...

In the glass, Cantus Pinot Noir is light-to-medium dusty red. Aromas are fruity and deep, showing a touch of black smoke.

Upon sipping, you note a full round, mid-mouth experience at first, bringing clean, slightly-sweet fully ripe berries to the edges of your palate. This is accompanied by a touch of cleansing acids and hint of tannin, hiding entirely the lofty 14.5 percent alcohol. Finish is just a tad hot, but lightly sweet, clean and pleasing. Three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, as I would find my way back to it.

Since the quality rating is two notches higher than the cost level, this qualifies as a "best value". Quite unusual for a pinot noir, but not unexpected for the high-value Cantus line.

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***+ $$ Weingut Jakob Schneider Riesling Kabinett, 2007, Niederhausen, Germany - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-05T18:34:00.001-04:00

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Review: Weingut Jakob Schneider Riesling Kabinett, 2007, from the Niederhausen area in Germany, is a modestly-priced dry riesling. I became interested in it because Terry Theise - a well-regarded riesling critic and importer - called it the one wine he would reach for if someone asked him to "encapsulate why you do what you do".

The Schneider Riesling Kabinett is made primarily from Niederhauser Rosenberg grapes, with some Kirschheck. It arrives in a one-litre bottle, no punt, with a synthetic cork and no capsule on the neck. The bottle is not a thing of beauty, but let's see what the wine has to offer...

In the glass, it is light and transparent, but with a definite golden yellow hue - almost flourescent, in fact. The nose is potent and engaging - sleek, shiny metallic, lightly sweet and citrus, with a suggestion of wet slate; phenomenal balance across the olfactory region!

On the palate, it is full and round in the middle, bringing a touch of sweetness and apple in first, with very light acids pulling in behind. Sweet stone continues on, beginning a long cascade to the round - just lightly citrus, and interestingly saline-tinged - finish. Three stars - I'll return to it - with a plus for its uncanny balance on each dimension: visually, aromatically and taste. Yummy. Very good value too.

I did not find the cherry, violets or wisteria that Theise mentions, but I will agree with his assessment on the sleek (not sinewy) stylishness. He suggests three to 12 years of aging; I cannot argue with that possibility, but I also could not suggest you forego the pleasures this wine offers in its youth as well.

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**** $$ Starry Night Zinfandel, 2003, Wilderotter Vineyard, Amador County, CA - Wine Review and Rating

2009-06-01T20:38:00.001-04:00

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Review: Starry Night Zinfandel from Wilderotter Vineyard hails from Amador County in California. Grapes come from an 1100 foot elevation in the Sierra Nevada foothills. Production was limited to just over 300 cases.

In the glass, Starry Night Wilderotter Zinfandel is quite light red, moving towards brick highlights with its few years of age. You could mistake it for a pinot noir at first glance. On the nose, aromas are intense, powerful, even youthfully exhuberant. There is a distinct aged-cinnamon mixed with the red berries. A hint of vanilla motor oil plus pine needles adds a slick, viscous feeling. Quite beckoning.

On the palate, sweet cedar and pine comes to the fore, bringing luscious sweet red berries, steeped in black tea. Tannins are sleek. Acids integrated. Lovely balance. Fresh, gently sweet finish. Wish I had bought more. Four stars. Drinking beautifully now - doesn't really need any more settling time in bottle. Seriously awesome value in a handsomely-made, moderately-priced zinfandel.

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***+ $ StarFire Zinfandel, 2006, Lodi, CA - Review and Rating

2009-05-31T20:20:00.001-04:00

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Review: StarFire Zinfandel is made from Lodi, CA, grapes and bottled by Starry Night Winery of Sebastopol, CA. I enjoyed an earlier vintage (2001) Starry Night Zinfandel from the Terra Alta Vineyard in Lodi, reviewed here.

The StarFire Lodi Zinfandel, 2006, shows deep dusty red in the glass. Not opaque, no bricking or purple. It has a deep, almost brooding aroma, nice touch of charred oak with the fruit.

On the palate, a sweet, dark oak is quite noticeable at first in the middle, with deep black and red fruits with a touch of spice swirling about it. Think blackberries and black cherries. Enough toughness and mild acid to stay in bottle for a few more years, but no harm to be drinking this right away either. Finish is a touch hot of alcohol, but still mellow and slightly sweet.

Three stars with a plus for its deep edginess. Awesome value.

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