I started using the Sena SMH10 in my modular helmet several years ago, and have added a Sena 20S to my open face touring helmet also.  I have added them to my wife’s helmet and to friend’s lids for rides when they had no bluetooth comms.  They are fantastic - rocking out to your favorite band or listening to a podcast when you’re riding solo is refreshing.  A quick call or text to the wife when the ride runs long to let her know you are still alive.  Chatting with other riders in your group is even better.  Road condition alerts from the leader to the rest of the group really ups the overall safety of the ride but the banter and chit-chat, that can be the most important and entertaining reason to by a bluetooth communicator! 

As much as I used them, I could never get them to work on my half helmets to my satisfaction.  Too clunky of a setup; too noisy; poor voice quality & volume unless using earbuds which just brings its own set of issues.

Enter the new Sena Cavalry Bluetooth Half Helmet.  Yeah, now we’re talkin’, no pun intended. 

Paraphrasing Henry Ford, you can get this thing in any color you want, as long as it’s black!  But you do have a choice of blacks.  The Cavalry comes in 2 models, gloss or matte black, clearly aimed at the Cruiser market.  I ordered the matte black model which comes with a matching black visor, ear pads, ear plates, a USB power & data cable, a thick cloth helmet pouch & a nice quick start booklet with removeable cards.  The initial charge took about 3 hours, recharges since then seem to be about an hour.  The charging port is rather close to the edge and can be a little hard to align with big fingers, or a larger cable than the one provided.  Since there is nothing to install it was ready to go once charged.  I already had the Sena app on my iPhone 7 so I only needed to pair the helmet with the phone and the Cavalry shows up in the app too, easy.

The helmet fits my round-oval melon better than the Bell Shorty Flame helmet which had been my go-to half helmet.  Sits a little lower too, feeling like my head is IN it rather than the helmet is ON my head, very comfortable for me.  The Visor works very well also, better than the Bell, which moves around and rattles a bit in the wind.  The angles of the visor and the fact it sits a bit lower allow me to just tip my head a bit when facing the sun and it cuts the glare.  The strap does fit a bit more forward than any of my other half helmets which was something I had to adjust to, my beard tangles in it, but I do not think it affects safety or comfort.  The helmet sits tight and does not move around in the wind as some do.  Passing Tractor trailers would move one of my helmets around horribly but the Cavalry sits still.

It was still cool in the mornings when I received the Cavalry and the temps were in the 40s on the morning commute to work.  The provided ear pads which slip onto the straps and tuck between the outer shell and the liner work well to protect the ears from the cold wind as well as helping direct the sound from the speakers to your ears.  As temps rise, that protection becomes a negative as it begins to get hot and uncomfortable in the 80s.  I removed them after temps warmed into summer as I’m hot natured and wanted more air flow. 

The other negative of the earpads as well as the hard ear plates is that they won’t stay put when you sit the helmet down.  Every time you take off the helmet you place it right side up to protect the finish and the earpads/plates are forced out of place.  Which means every time you go to put it on, you must re-insert the earpads/plates back into place.  As useful as they are, they become an issue for me.  Surely there is a way to redesign them to maintain the functionality while allowing them to fold inward when you place the helmet down.

Matte finish helmets in general are rather easily damaged compared to a harder glossy finish, the Cavalry is no exception.  You need to be a little careful how you handle it and always place it right side up or it will become scratched in short order. Some folks like that look, me not so much.  A very nice protective bag is provided with the helmet, so with a little effort the Cavalry should be easy to keep looking good.  I have covered the helmet with a water soaked rag to soften any - we’ll call it “ride residue”, and so far, everything has wiped off easily after a few minutes without damaging the finish.  Just a couple stone chips which happen regardless of the helmet.

Press the Plus (+) and SENA buttons together for a second and it boots up and the red light on the right flashes to indicate the battery status, 4 times is fully charged.  Holding the same buttons for 3 seconds will give an audible battery check such as “battery level is high”, a pretty cool feature.

I have about 3,000 miles on the Cavalry so far and I have found it to be every bit as good as the stand-alone units mounted to my other helmets.  I ride mostly solo but on occasion my wife rides pillion.  We have a Sena 20S on her helmet and it worked as expected.  Better really, as we were both surprised by the noise cancelling of the Cavalry.  We both figured there would be a good bit of noise from the exposed mic on the Cavalry but to our surprise it really is rather quiet.

Phone calls are equally quiet and I even had a couple calls where they could hear the rumble of my Vulcan Voyager in the background but no real wind noise.  Didn’t have to increase the speaker volume or speak at an elevated level at all.  I’m guessing it is some sort of voodoo, but who cares, it works!  The sound quality of the speakers is really noticeable at first coming from the 20S.  A fuller sound with greater volume than I was expecting, I really like the sound of this helmet.

I have not had a real-world chance to connect 4 units together on a ride but I have done so statically in the garage and once all units were fully patched to their latest respective firmware, all were noise free and stable.  I also have not tested the water resistance as I generally don’t ride in the rain in a half helmet.  The few showers I have encountered we no challenge though.

I have used the FM radio feature a couple times and it works well.  Using the app, you can set your favorite stations and cycle through them via the button once riding.  Radio signals in my area aren’t all that great but all stations I receive in the cage are available with the Cavalry and the local NPR station is better actually, all things considered.

My favorite part of the Sena Bluetooth line is the ability to access the voice functions of my iPhone.  Press the Sena button for about 3 seconds and the Siri menu is launched which allows you to play music, call, text etc. just using your voice without pulling over in traffic.  I love this functionality and use it all the time.  Expecting an important call, no problem, keep on riding.  Your significant other texts wanting to know you’re safe, reply immediately and she’s happy, keep on riding.  So functional it’s worth the entry price for any rider.

Overall, I’m very impressed with the comfort, function and build quality of the Sena Cavalry.  It is as nice as I had hoped and priced fairly in the market.  It’s a great two-fer!  The quality communication ability combined with a very well-made helmet should be a home run and I commend them for bringing it to market.  If they would resolve the ear pad/plate issue and maybe add a drop-down sunshield it would be about perfect!  The Cavalry is now my go-to favorite half helmet; now I have 3 others including the Bell just gathering dust. 

I highly recommend anyone interested in a very nice half helmet and wants the most functional communications system out there to give the Sena Cavalry a shot, you will not be disappointed.

Summary

The new SENA 20S EVO is the next version of SENA's top of the line communicators. The EVO version is a nice upgrade to the original 20s in both range and performance. You can pair it to any bluetooth device such as other brand headsets, GPS, radar detectors, music players, smart phones, etc. 

Mounting and Installation

The installation was standard to SENA. You have tons of options to choose from. You can use the boom mic or a stick on mic, you can use the wired speakers or set it up for your favorite ear buds. You can use an adhesive mount or do as I did with the helmet clamp. Some helmets may have difficulty using the clamp because of their shape and the adhesive mount is an easy answer to that.

The speakers will vary on helmets as well, but I have never owned a helmet I couldn't get them installed in. I use my SENA on the following helmets personally: Shoei X-14 (did require some light modification on the speaker cutouts), Shoei X-11, Arai XD-4, Fly Carbon F2, Fox V1, and Shoei Qwest.

SENA always includes all the accessories with their headsets and that makes for an easy and flexible installation. Personally, I appreciate that.

Before using the headset you need to go online and download the latest firmware. The included USB cable and a computer will be needed. Download the software HERE and follow the instructions. SENA has a great track record of upgrading and tweaking their headsets. Its one of the few products you can buy that actually gets better while you own it.

Standout Features

• Helmet Clamp - The 20S EVO is compatible with the previous 20S model so I didn't have to invest in new clamps for all my helmets. I also like the fact that the contacts on the headset are flush. This prevents accidentally bending pins like I experienced with the SENA SMH10 headset. You also get a positive click when  it is fully seated. Be sure you push it down until you feel it click to avoid loss or problems.
• Sharkfin Antenna - The original 20S headset had an antenna that you had to put up and down. It was a bit fragile and difficult to operate with a gloved hand. If you left it down it did affect range. The new 20S EVO has a sharkfin style stationary antenna. The new antenna is more robust and the effective range of the 20S EVO is noticeably better than the previous 20s version.
• Noise Cancellation - I don't know what kind of black magic SENA builds into their headsets, but they always impress with their noise cancellation. I have taken calls while riding interstate speeds and people can't even tell I'm on a motorcycle. That's amazing to me.
• Phone App - The phone app for configuring your headset is extremely useful. With my older SMH10 I could never remember how to make changes and if I was out on a ride I would just have to wait until I got home. With the newer models like the 20S EVO you can make all those changes on the fly with the phone app.
• Battery Life - SENA specs talk time at 13 hours. I have experienced longer times that that. The battery life is excellent on the 20S EVO.

Configuration Suggestions

• Audio Multitasking - I use this so I can listen to my music and be involved in an intercom session at the same time.
• Audio Boost - This will allow you to listen at a higher volume. I wear ear plugs so I typically have it turned up pretty high.
• Motion Sensor Sensitivity - Set this setting to "Low". If its too sensitive the voice command can be kicked off too easily and it will drive you crazy. Once I set this to low it works as expected.
• Advanced Noise Control - This turns on that exceptional SENA noise control and make your conversations clear.

Experience

The use experience on the SENA 20S EVO is awesome. Riding with friends and being able to talk is not only convenient, it increases safety, and makes the ride more fun. I can't tell you how many times my friends and I have been laughing so hard we had tears in our eyes. 

Using the controls is simple and easy to do even in winter riding gloves. Its low profile on your helmet so you don't notice any excessive weight and it doesn't interfere with turning your head.

The music quality is quite good, but if you are trying to be an audiophile with perfect sound reproduction you will probably not be satisfied. This won't be your new reference set of speakers for your home stereo system, but for motorcycle riding they are excellent.

Summary

If you are in the market for a bluetooth helmet communicator you need to look into the SENA 20S EVO headset. This is the best headset I have used so far. Combine that with the fact that all the needed accessories come in the box, you can pair to any headset, and you can upgrade it as new features come out and you have a value packed piece of gear. The Sena 20s EVO list price is $299 for a single and $549 for a dual pack. Its an investment that's worth the price. 

Let's talk storage, the Viking Bags Dirtman Enduro saddle bags are huge compared to some other brands my crew rides with on their bikes. There's plenty of room to store all your adventure traveling necessities. I carry cell phone ,tools, food, dry socks, toilet paper, personal protection, spare goggles, flashlights, first aid kit, water purification filter, gopro equipment, and a few more items when I ride.

When half full I don't feel them behind my legs, but once I fill the bags to capacity you can tell they are there, but it didn't bother me. I'm also 6'4" so I'm big on any bike. They actually make really great calf supports for those long uphill climbs.

Each bag comes with a small zipper pocket on the outside for the little things like  tire gauge, bug spray, sunscreen, etc. Four plastic D rings attached to the outside of the bags provide extra storage for use with straps or paracord if strapping down jackets, camping gear, fishing pole, any thing for all the fun stuff that can be done on a adventure trip. With any motorcycle you will eventually feel the added weight, but the Dirtman Enduro dirt bike saddlebags carry the weight low and evenly distributed if properly packed so the feel of the extra weight was minimized. While empty, the outside webbing strap can be tightened to pull the bags against the number plate so they don't flop around and get in the way.

At only $79.99 the Viking Bags Dirtman Enduro saddle bags pack a lot of value (see what I did there). In my testing they have taken a handful of tumbles in the last month, been soaked in the rain, blasted with dirt, and slammed into rocks. All that abuse and no tears or scratches. Simply put, they are tough. 

Another great feature is a reflective strip on the side of the bags which adds a little more visibility in the evenings when riding out of the woods and on the tarmac in the dark. 

I'm very happy with the bags as they are, but some possible upgrades would be metal buckles and D rings instead of plastic. I have NOT had any issues with the plastic clips or D rings so far. Water proof bag liners would be a nice option for those extreme riding adventures. For now ziplocs get the job done.

I would definitely be interested in the fender bag and the handlebar bag that Viking Bags offers. I will be looking into a set for my Harley-Davidson down the road. In closing, I say pack your luggage, enjoy the ride, be safe, have fun out there, and forever ride on two wheels.

Let us know if you have any questions in the comments.

Summary

The MAKO360 is a vibration dampening handlebar mount made for most dirt bikes. The design allows it to stop vibrations from all angles and directions using specially engineered polymers. It was even more fun to ride my KTM with such smooth bars!

Intro

XC Gear was founded in 2015 by a fellow rider named Lance Smith. All theirproducts are made in the USA with a focus on innovation and quality.

Build Quality and Price

One of the first things I noticed when opening the MAKO 360 box is the attention to detail in the packaging and that carried over into the product itself. The pieces of the bar mount are all machined out of aluminum. I’m not sure what their accepted machining tolerance is, but I can tell you that these are produced with precision. Every line and cut seems to have been done with care. In fact, while installing, all 12 screws lined up perfectly with ease. That is uncommon with aftermarket parts. The quality is top shelf and the price reflects it at $399.99.

Installation and Adjustment

Installing the MAKO 360 was a breeze. Two bolts hold it to the triple, slide the polymers over the handlebar and line them up with the grooves in the bar clamp. Mine had polymers with no cuts, the newest ones have slots cut so you can get them around the bar without removing everything off your bar. After that just snug your screws so you can rotate your bar until itswhere you want it before tightening the screws. They even have the torque info stamped on the shark bite clamp so you will know how tight to get them.

The windows cut into the top clamp are perfectly placed to see the degree marks on my Nekken bar. The way the recess has been machined an arrow is formed from the tool marks to line your bar up to. These little details were very helpful for installation and adjustment.

Performance

I immediately felt less vibration in the bars, even in the garage. Where they really shine is about an hour into a hard ride. Arm pump was less of an issue and fatigue was lower from not dealing with all the vibration in the bars. Its stuff we just get used to and never realize how much it effects our energy level and endurance until its gone. The MAKO 360 has no metal to metal contact with the bar so I was worried about losing the important feedback needed for riding, but that just simply wasn’t an issue.

Final Opinion

The MAKO 360 bar mount is a top quality product that will help you ride longer and harder. Reducing the vibrations are beneficial for arm pump, injuries, endurance, and energy conservation. Its awesome to see another American company innovating a sport I love and producing a product that helps our bodies perform better. After spending some hours with the MAKO 360 I highly recommend it.

Thanks for reading. If you have any questions or would like to know anything I may have forgotten to mention please feel free to leave a comment and I will respond as quickly as possible. The opinions in this review are my own. If you found this review helpful, please consider supporting our sponsors with future purchases.

Summary

Motorcycles are dangerous, we all know that. Anytime you can find a way to reduce your risk and increase safety its worth consideration. The Smart Turn System is an easy way to do that. After installation, the operation of your bike feels unchanged, but your turn signals self-cancel and your communication with the traffic around you is clear and more reliable.

Company

Smart Turn System was invented by a Slovenian start-up called MOVALYSE ltd. They are electrical and mechanical engineers, but more importantly, riders just like us. They set out to solve the safety issue of self-cancelling turn signals and did a brilliant job. I can’t wait to see what they come out with next.

Construction

The STS unit is a small aluminum box with a neatly terminated wiring harness. As soon as you have this device in your hands you can tell that it’s a quality product. What struck me right off the bat was the way the wiring was terminated. I have done a lot of wiring in my life and I can spot and appreciate the extra effort it takes to do a proper job. These guys get it. Every connector looked great and they used heat shrink on the ends to protect it.

Installation

This was a little confusing for me at first. Not because of the instructions, but figuring out where would be best to tap into the wire harness and mount the box. I decided to mount it to a frame member with zip ties. I wanted it on my cowling support, but the wire was about 4 inches too short. The box needs to be mounted level for the motion sensors to work properly.

I wired it into the switch harness. I figured I could replace that easily if I ever needed to and I was able to avoid modifying the main harness.

You will need a wiring diagram for your bike to identify the proper wires. The STS goes inline between your turn signals and the switch. You simply snip the proper wire, insert them into the included crimp connector and then plug the spade terminals from the unit into the side of the connector. I have never seen these before, but they really made the install easy.

The next step is modifying the turn signal switch itself. They include two sizes of small foam circles. These need to be inserted into the switch to make it a momentary switch. I used the thinner pieces and they worked but I had to push the switch really hard to make the contacts connect. I took them back out and trimmed the thickness with wire cutters until I got it feeling just like stock.

It took me a few hours to install it, but I could do it again in about 20-30 minutes.

Functionality

The STS uses a motion sensor to cancel your turn signals and it works awesome. In the video you can ride along with me as I test it out on my first ride with it. It uses leaning, acceleration, braking, and speed as inputs. You can also manually cancel the signal with the handlebar switch. For example, if your left signal is on and you want to cancel it you can push the left signal switch again.

What Could Be Improved

Honestly, this is a well-designed product. It would be nice if the clamp on connectors were a bit smaller. STS did tell me that they have made further improvements on their connectors recently.

Final Opinion

I have always wanted self-cancelling signals on my motorcycle. I am bad about leaving them on. The STS system works exactly as I would expect it to. Its reliable, its well-made, and just works. As I was installing it I emailed customer service several times and they were quick with responding and helpful with their answers.

I am happy with the Smart Turn System and I am happy to recommend it to my friends and fellow riders. Make sure you check out the video for additional thoughts and some hometown stories as I take you on a ride around town to test out the STS for the very first time.

Clamp on connector with spade terminals from STS installed

Small foam discs installed into the switch.

I decided to zip tie mine in place.

The Company

The JimmyCASE was started like many small businesses. A product born of frustration. Dan Smith was a TV executive that was tired of having stuffed pockets. His solution was the JimmyCASE, a protective phone case that doubles as a minimalist wallet. He designed the iPhone card holder in his garage in Los Angeles and it is still manufactured in the USA in the same city. They even source the mahogany and basswood from a local aircraft supplier. It’s great to see a small business in the USA thriving with a new product.

Construction and Features

Every JimmyCASE has a wood back made of a military grade stock. The darker colors are mahogany and the lighter colors are basswood. These were chosen because they are lightweight and strong.

The frame protection for the phone is provided by a full wrap around ring of silicone that has a raised edge on the front to prevent screen impact.

The wallet function is provided by a custom woven piece of elastic designed to maintain its stretch. JimmyCASE says it can hold up to 6 cards, cash, and even items like a car key. There are 14 different colorways available in the elastic. If you build a custom case and add in the lighter basswood option that’s 28 different design options.

Experience

The packaging of the iPhone 7 Wallet case was eye-catching and I was excited to get it open.  The envelope that it arrived in was marked fragile.  After opening the envelope, the case itself was in a durable thick plastic sleeve.  The case had a piece of styrofoam inserted so it would not get misshapen during shipping.  I really like that its made in the USA.

I am a mom and already have to carry the baby, a diaper bag, and usually a purse.  This iPhone Card Holder has been a life saver when I don't want to carry the extra weight of a purse.  It holds up to six cards, but the maximum I put in my jimmyCASE was 4, and the elastic did not get stretched out.  I was even able to use 1 card and it was secure.  I found it easy to put the case on and take it back off. 

I did not try the protection features of this case, as I didn’t think my husband would like to purchase a new phone if I dropped it too hard. The case feels sturdy and the silicone with the raised edge to protect your phone from landing on the screen and shattering seems trustworthy.

 What Could Be Improved

This is a wonderful case, but there were some small things I would change.  Let's talk about the color options.  I would like to see more solid color options. The only 4 solid color options are black, steel blue, khaki green, and brown tweedy.  The other 10 choices are 2 tone stripes.  I received the pink and grey striped case. I did notice there was a slight color discrepancy between the colors on the website and the actual product colors.  The actual product colors on the case seem to be a little darker than what you see when browsing the website.

 I did find the buttons require a firmer press than my other case and the lip that protects the screen when dropped is uncomfortable when holding the phone longer periods of time. Headsets and hands free options take care of this for lengthier calls.

 Depending on what kind of phone holders you use in your vehicle, the elastic on the back may add a little challenge, especially if you have it packed with cards and cash.

Conclusion

Overall, the JimmyCASE may not be my every day case, but it will be in the regular rotation. This case is definitely worth having for when I do not want to carry a purse or a wallet.  It’s perfect for an active lifestyle and if I could get one that was pink and sparkly, it would likely be my every day case. 

If you ride a motorcycle offroad, you will lose bolts. Its as simple as that.

In the past when I needed new hardware I went to the local home improvement store and hoped I could find something that worked. Most times I could find a replacement, but it was often inferior to the OEM hardware. Sometimes it would require a different tool size so I may even have to augment my tool kit.

The option of going online to order OEM bolts is expensive and takes days to get your replacements.

When I got my first KTM about a year ago, one of the things that impressed me the most is how few tools are needed to get most tasks done. That only works if your hardware matches. To solve the problem mentioned earlier I got a 250 piece kit specifically made for my KTM from Specbolt. 

The hardware in the Specbolt kits are designed to match OEM specs, and often the Specbolt fasteners look even better than OEM in my experience. 

Comparing the cost of ordering OEM replacements individually, my 250 piece kit at $49.99 is a bargain! You even get the specialty stuff like rear sprocket screws, screws for plastics, and the special shaped washers. All this, and it maintains the same tool kit requirements! If you go to the local store for KTM hardware I can almost guarantee you won't be getting the TORX screws it comes with. 

You may be thinking, 250 pieces is a large set, maybe you don't lose hardware that often. Specbolt has that covered too. You can get smaller kits for your bike as well. They offer kits for every major brand, specialty kits for plastics replacement, or even kits for vintage restorations. If none of those get you covered, give them a call and they can even build custom kits.

It may seem like a stretch to review a box of screws, but having this box has been one of the handiest tools in my garage. The time and hassle it saves when I find a missing screw or the satisfaction you get when you can bolt your latest farkle on with fresh hardware is just awesome.

I highly recommend looking at Specbolt.com and find the kit designed for your bike. Pick whatever size you see fit for your garage and order it. You won't regret it. 

I often get questions about good vendors to do business with. One of my favorites is BikeBandit.com. Over the years I have spent thousands of dollars on motorcycle parts with them.

Selection:

To put it briefly, they have pretty much everything. When I got back into riding I was on a street bike, but later I got into dual sport riding. Now I even ride dirt bikes. BikeBandit carries products for all of those riding styles. They also cater to ATV, UTV, Scooters, and even Personal Watercraft.

OEM parts are also available on their site. If it’s fun to ride, they have parts for it. All the OEM parts I have ordered from them have arrived promptly. Often companies drop ship OEM parts and delivery can take longer. I don’t know if Bikebandit drop ships them or not, but I have always gotten my parts quickly.

Over the years I have also gotten some great deals on tires. If you are looking for cheap motorcycle tires always check BikeBandit first. They often have sales running.

Customer Service:

One of my favorite things about BikeBandit is the online chat option with customer service. I hate calling and being on hold for anybody. The chat option is quick and I have always gotten the answers I needed. Every agent I have worked with has been familiar with the products and they have always been courteous.

Discounts:

One of the biggest reasons I started shopping with BikeBandit in the beginning is because of their special discount deals.

• Free Shipping – Any order over $99 is shipped free, and let’s face it, ordering over $99 worth of motorcycle parts and farkles is easy to do.
• Price Match – If you find a lower price from an authorized dealer anywhere on the internet they will match it. That way you can spend your money with a trusted vendor and one you are used to working with.
• Bandit Bucks – As a loyalty program you can earn small rebates in the form of Bandit Bucks. This is another reason to do price matching. Pile up your Bandit Bucks and get some more savings.
• AMA Discount – If you ride motorcycles and you are not a member of the AMA, you should be. Getting a 5% discount with Bikebandit is just another perk of an AMA membership.

If you are looking for a good vendor experience and you want fast shipping I highly suggest giving BikeBandit a look. There are a lot of options out there to buy from, but I can whole heartedly recommend Bikebandit based on personal experiences. 

We know to put on a helmet every time we ride, but helmets are not the only basic protection that riders need.

Other than helmets, motorcycle safety gear such as riding gloves, boots and jackets will comfort your body and protect your limbs from injury during accidents.

Gloves shield your hands from the windy cold as well as flying stones and low-hanging branches, while boots guard your feet against the worst injuries.

I care as much as you do about being able to enjoy riding safely and in comfort whenever I want. Choosing protective gear can be tricky, and this is why I’m writing this guide on what a rider should look for.

Boots

A good pair keeps feet dry against spraying water and mud from the ground. Low-cut models formed with perforated leathers or microfibers allow air to cool your feet on warm days.

Check for double-stitching or better on soles and other areas which tend to come apart. Abrasion-resistant layers, armor inserts, and sliders that cover the heels, ankles, and sides offer worthwhile protection along with metal-plated toe boxes. Make sure you choose boots with anti-slip soles and straps for any laces to prevent them from catching on moving parts.

Good boots are usually harder to put on and take off, but this also means they are less likely to slip off during accidents. There are vented models with perforation or mesh uppers that will suit bikers doing runs on hot days.

It’s wisest to wear your motorcycle boots any time you go riding. Here are some motorcycle boots models to fit different seasons.

Helmets

Wise bikers always wear their helmets. It’s the most critical protective gear for everyone. Those who don’t wear helmets are more likely to suffer worse long-term damage and fatal injuries during bad falls.

A helmet will greatly reduce wind noise and thus reduce your fatigue during long rides. Half-cap models offer far less shielding than full-face helmets with visors. Leaving a helmet unsecured can be almost as bad as failing to wear one when something happens, so make sure to fasten the chin strap every time you ride.

DOT certified models that provide protection for the entire face are recommended. Other product safety ratings such as Snell are great for finding the best-designed models that you can still wear comfortably.

Gloves

Motorcycle gloves have reinforced parts that shield your hands against harsh impacts during bad tumbles. They also protect against flying debris and splashing water as well as assist you in grasping the controls and grips better.

The better models vent heat and flow in cooling air in hot conditions, or else insulate against leaks and trap warm air in cold season. Short-cuffed gloves with perforated leather or mesh materials allow in cool air on hot days. Long gauntlets with tough shells and cozy linings should leave your hands warm against oncoming cold winds.

Look for high-quality stitching on areas that are most likely to come apart, such as sewn palms. Lightweight nylon or leather shells that include armoring for the knuckle and palm areas are great choices. Pick models with layers that resist abrasion and cover your fleshy parts such as the palms. The best have shells and tips that are contoured to prevent your wrists and fingers from being overly bent and twisted during rolls.

Jacket & Pants

Rider-oriented clothes made of tough materials will stave off the wind, insects, and anything else flying as you beat fast down the pavement. Look for armor inserts around elbows and knees and sliders on the shoulder and buttocks. Check for padding to keep you comfortable and insulated linings for use in colder climes.

Needless to say, waterproof versions will keep you from getting fully drenched in rain. Pricier multi-season jackets and pants can be worth it as they do more than protect your skin from injury. Their vents and moisture-wicking materials can better cool you in the heat, warm you in the cold, and dry you out after a downpour.

Drivers involved in crashes with bikers often say they did not spot them in time, so it makes sense to wear brightly colored or striped clothes and accessories.

Safety Is Worth The Cost

I rely on a few pieces of motorcycle safety gear (and common sense) as you should. Bike owners of various styles and disciplines will find a range of stuff on the market suitable for different seasons and budgets.

Frankly, if you are serious you will ride all geared up more often than not. Whatever you choose, always remember to put on the best protective gear you can afford. 

Author Biography

Over the past 10 years, Lucas Knight has been a motorcycle rider. He has built up an incredible passion for travelling by motorbike and always wishes to contribute to motorcyclist community. This is the reason why he created MotorManner.com where his passion is turned into useful and interesting information to the motorcycle lover. 

Introduction

My search for the perfect GPS had a few stipulations. I wanted something that was durable, waterproof, could run on batteries and had street auto navigation maps. With these criteria I set out looking for the perfect unit.

The Unit

My first choice with a GPS is usually a Garmin. Their units seem to be the most user friendly and easy to find the points of interest you’re looking for. Garmin has a couple lines of units, offroad, Nuvi and Zumo. The motorcycle specific units fall into the Zumo line. Starting at $599 for the entry level Zumo these units have everything you could ask for like Bluetooth, music, traffic, and more. With a price tag starting at $600 I could not find it in the budget.  Looking at the other lines Garmin had I was sure I could make a non-motorcycle unit work well.

I finally settled on a Garmin GPSMAP 78. The 78 is a marine specific handheld unit. This unit seems to fit the bill by being both waterproof and durable. The 78 can handle both routes, tracks and has waypoint navigation built in. With 1.7 gb of internal storage and a micro sd card slot the unit is expandable.

The 78 was $176.00 on amazon but did not include street maps. Trying to stay on budget I decided that the Garmin City Navigator map card at nearly $80 was a little out of my reach. On eBay I found a the newest version of City Navigator North America and I was able to get it on a micro SD card for $14 shipped. City Navigator is also available using this link.

The Mount

To mount the unit to the motorcycle there really is only one company I trust. RAM Mounts makes one of the toughest systems for mounting nearly anything on a motorcycle. My personal solution was to get a Ram Mount cradle specifically for the GPSMAP 78 mounted to a RAM short double socket arm that is attached to the handlebar clamps with RAM’s handlebar bolt kit. This mounting style works well for me and has no extra bolts or pieces to get loose. The total cost of the mount was $37.74 Each piece of the mounting kit is linked below.

Testing

I was excited to test this GPS out, but with a steep learning curve my first stop was Google. I found a website with a great tutorial on how to set up your 78. The folks at Dual Sport West have it broken down into various models with detailed instructions.

               Once I had the GPS set up it was simple to drop in the new SD card and start navigating. I found that the GPS was easy to swap back and forth between direct point navigation like with tracks to on road turn by turn directions with routes. Also marking a waypoint was simple by holding down the enter key to mark your location. This GPS is perfect for my requirements.

Total Cost

Garmin gpsmap 78     $176.00

Ram Mount Handlebar Clamp Base $10.87

Ram Mount Short double socket arm $7.82

Ram Mounts RAM-B-238 Diamond base $6.76

Ram Mount RAM-HOL-GA40U Cradle $12.29

Garmin City Navigator $14

Total:  $227.74

What Was Missing?

               I feel that this GPS is great, especially for under $230. but there are some features that I found myself not needing, but wanting. I thought it would be nice to have Bluetooth built into the GPS to communicate with my helmet headset so I could hear its warnings. Also, when using the GPS in the car it would have been nice to have spoken street names. Both of these things are not requirements for my application, but would have been nice.

Conclusion

This GPS is perfect for me. I like things simple and durable. This unit should work well for many years and is not going to fail in the first splash or drop. Garmin units are easy to use and have a well thought out user interface. I highly recommend this unit to anyone that may ride in adverse conditions.

Introduction

SENA has opened the door to the action camera market with their new SENA Prism camera. The new Prism offers unique features like Bluetooth audio and it will connect to a Bluetooth headset in your helmet.

What’s Included?

Included in the box is a large assortment of mounts including a Suction cup mount, Helmet pivot ball mount, Double suction cup mount and Handlebar mount. Also included are your standard foam tape surface mounts.

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Settings

The resolutions and photo settings give you a number of options to customize. With these modes you could shoot video, take photos, time-lapse and even burst photos.

Video Mode Resolution

• 1080p 30fps
•  720p 30 / 60fps
• 480p 120fps

Google+ https://plus.google.com/+OklahomaADV Facebook https://www.facebook.com/oklahomaADV Twitter https://twitter.com/oklahomaADV VISIT MY STORE HERE: http://astore.amazon.com/jaco0d-20 Gear linked below is my recommendations for high value gear. Using these links is appreciated. I receive a small portion of sales using these links and it helps to fund the channel.

Photo Mode Resolution

• 3.5MP (3:2)
• 3.2MP (4:3)
• 3.0MP (16:9)
• 5.0MP (16:9)

Burst Shot

• 10 / 5 / 3 pics

Time Lapse Mode with Photo or Video

• 1 / 3 / 5 / 10 / 30 /60 secs

Raw Footage. The camera is able to capture the colors very well.

App

The iphone and Android app easily connects to the camera using the built in Bluetooth. Changing settings was easy. There is no video feed to line up shots or other options to start recording in the app though.

Quality

I have owned 5 action cameras since the first GoPro Hero came out. I was instantly impressed with this new Prism and the build quality. The menu works well, the app connects quickly and stays connected, and the overall durability of the mounts seems good.

Video and Photo Comparison

In order to test the video quality of the Drift Ghost vs the SENA Prism I strapped both cameras to my LS2 MX453 helmet and went for a ride. It was clear after reviewing the footage that the Prism has much better clarity and color correctness. While I can achieve close to the same results on the Drift after editing, the Prism footage required no editing.

1080 at 30fps screenshot Ghost on left and Prism on right.

The Competition

In the action camera market there are many options so staying on top, or doing better than the competition is hard. While no one camera has all the features in one, each has its strong points.

SENA vs Drift

My current setup was a Drift Ghost with an external mic on the right side, with a SENA 20s on the left side in my LS2 MX453. This setup allowed me to have my music, navigation and other essentials while still having video and in helmet commentary. This setup has worked well and the audio is pretty good. The only downfall to this setup is the Drift has an annoying buzz when using an external mic. This issue is well known, but Drift has yet to fix this problem. Having the Prism replace the Ghost allowed me to eliminate 1 microphone in my helmet. The Prism is also lighter than the Ghost which is important when mounting on a helmet. The Ghost does have 2 major benefits to the Prism. The Ghost has a replaceable lens should it get scratched, and has an on camera screen for lining up shots. If you were to scratch the lens on your Prism you would have to replace the camera. One other major difference is the lack of a rotatable lens like the Drift has.

One other issue on the Drift is the poor wifi connection to a phone. The app and Bluetooth connections on the Prism were much better.

SENA vs GoPro

Before swapping to the Drift I used a GoPro like many other helmet cam users. After a couple broken units I found out that when using an external mic the GoPro would wear out quickly. GoPro has excellent warranty service, so that was never a problem however it was annoying to keep breaking the same micro usb plug and having to use an adapter for a mic. Using the Prism I did not require any adapters or external wires to have in helmet commentary. However, you will need the Bluetooth headset.

The Prism and the GoPro are pretty close in size to each other, but shaped different due to the lens location. Neither camera has a user replaceable lens like the Ghost, but if kept in their waterproof cases the lens should remain intact.

The menu navigation on the Prism and the GoPro are very similar and you can see that SENA may have been inspired by some of the GoPro designs.

Conclusion

With excellent audio and easy menu navigation I feel that the Prism is a great addition to the helmet camera market. There are a couple things that I think could have been improved. The first is the app. I could not believe that the app did not have a video feed to line up shots. The second is the lack of microphone input on the camera. Users are forced to have a Bluetooth headset. If you do not have a headset I strongly suggest you get a SENA 20s reviewed here, because they are a great addition. The camera is light and I think in many applications will be great.  The SENA Prism video quality is excellent and the camera is a perfect size.

Pros

• Lightweight
• Bluetooth audio
• Lots of included accessories
• Easy menu navigation

Cons

• App controls lacking
• Non replaceable or tilting lens

Thanks for reading. If you have any questions or would like to know anything I may have forgotten to mention please feel free to leave a comment and I will respond as quickly as possible. The opinions in this review are my own. If you found this review helpful, please consider supporting our sponsors with future purchases.

This review on Spirit Strike was written by Jacob Roby of OklahomaKLR. If you guys like it, let him know in the comments below and subscribe to his Channel.

Read more: LS2 MX453 Dual Sport Helmet

Every now and then the stars align and a new motorcycle farkle is born that is both affordable and useful. The Helmet Hook is one of those farkles.

Construction

The Helmet Hook is a piece of heavy duty plastic molded into the shape of a hook. It has a ring at the top with an optional metal washer insert. Your handlebars and bar ends will determine whether or not you will need the washer insert.

The hook portion has been drilled to allow for a small optional padlock in case you want to lock your helmet.

Installation

The Helmet Hook will fit pretty much any handlebar. I have installed it on my 2002 Yamaha FZ1, 2004 Kawasaki KLR650 with handguards, and my 2006 Yamaha FJR1300.

It only takes a couple of minutes to install the hook. Just remove your bar ends or handguards and slip the hook in between and replace the screws. The hook can be oriented to face towards the bike or away from it. I usually face mine away from the bike to allow for maximum hand clearance, but how you do it is all personal preference. The Helmet Hook doesn’t care either way.

Experience

There really isn't much to say. It’s a hook for your helmet and it just works. I place the metal D-Rings from my helmet strap into the hook and let it hang. If you intend to lock your helmet I would suggest buying the lock when you purchase your Helmet Hook. You will need a small lock with a long lock shank. Save yourself multiple trips to the hardware store and just add it to your order.

Improvements

Some helmet D-rings are smaller than others. On my Shoei X-Eleven I could get both D-Rings on the hook, but when I took it off they were scraping the hook. It might be a good improvement to make the hook part a little narrower. Not much, maybe 1/8 of an inch. With that being said, it would be easy to modify the hook with a file, dremel tool, or small saw.

Conclusion

It’s really quite nice to know my helmet isn't going to plummet to the ground. These days helmets can be pricey and one good drop could be very costly. Considering that the Helmet Hook is only $15.95 and the optional pad lock is only $2.55 I think it’s a wise investment. The fact that it is unobtrusive on the handlebars makes it even better.

Order your Helmet Hook here: LINK

Like most motorcyclists, I usually carry things with me on a motorcycle ride. There are many options for carrying items on a ride such as a backpack, a tank bag, saddle bags, hard boxes mounted to the bike, soft luggage with built-in strap systems, fender packs, tool tubes, and, yes, even the lowly milk crate. Oftentimes we may just want to strap an item to the rear of the bike.

The most basic and common method is to use the ubiquitous bungee cord. Everyone seems to own a few and they are very handy to use—just find a place to hook the cord and stretch it across the item until it feels secure.

There are problems, however, with using bungee cords. They usually have coated metal hooks that can leave scratch marks on your motorcycle. The cords themselves are stretchy and the item being secured can come loose over bumps in the road and slide or even fall off the bike. Dual sport and adventure touring riders know that bungee cords simply won’t work for carrying gear on bumpy dirt roads and trails.

In my personal experience, I have used bungee cords many times in the past without a problem (on street rides) as long as I am careful to make the cords very snug and evenly passed over the gear. I have ridden with others who were not as careful and they have had gear fall off their bike during a ride. As I began broadening my riding from street to dirt I soon found the bungee cords lacking. I needed something to secure my pack to the bike without any movement at all since dirt riding will exploit the slightest looseness in the strapping. Also, the contents of a soft pack tend to settle a bit and contribute to the loosening of the straps.

My trail pack for my dual sport motorcycle is small and weighs ten pounds. I strap it to a metal rack on the tail of my bike. It contains items I might need on the trail for tube repair, first aid, a tow strap, tools, etc. I first used some cheap webbing straps with cam buckles I picked up at WalMart. While much better than bungee cords they were a bit flimsy, the cam buckles somewhat weak, and without any rubber or elastic tensioner to take up slack they sometimes allowed a bit of loosening.

I also tried ROK™ straps and they were a big improvement over the cheap webbing. I didn’t really have a problem with them in my application. These straps use nylon webbing, a quick-release plastic buckle, a rubber tensioner on one end, and closed-loops on each end to loop through itself around a part of the motorcycle like the passenger foot pegs or subframe (girth hitch). The problem with the ROK™ straps is that they seem like rather light-duty straps that might not hold up under more demanding conditions with a bigger load than my little trail pack. The plastic quick-release buckle seems to be a possible weak point.

Green Chile Adventure Gear (GCAG) is a young company based in northern New Mexico that produces soft luggage systems for motorcycles. The owners are fellow dual sport and adventure riders active in Facebook groups such as IBAR (International Brotherhood of Adventure Riders) and KLR Owners Group, among others. Their centerpiece product is the versatile soft luggage rack that allows strapping soft luggage to virtually any motorcycle without the need for expensive and heavy metal racks.

I received two of their strap systems: The Mondo and Mondo UL (ultra-light). Theses straps can be used with their soft luggage rack or alone directly on an existing luggage rack, rear seat, or fender. The Mondo was in their line first and uses very strong one-inch webbing, a heavy duty cam buckle, elastic tensioner, and closed loop girth hitching. The cam buckle used on the Mondo straps is rock solid and heavy. The teeth on the roller of the cam bite deeply and firmly so the webbing will not slide at all. The cam buckle makes it super easy to pull the webbing through tightly; to release simply press down on the spring-loaded tab. The elastic tensioner is several layers thick and housed inside a tube of webbing so that even if the elastic should ever fail the strap will still hold.

The Mondo UL has the same closed loops for girth hitching and elastic tensioner. The difference is the one-inch webbing is a bit thinner and lighter and it uses a plastic quick-release buckle instead of the cam buckle. These straps are not as strong as the original Mondo. GCAG introduced the Mondo UL line at the request of customers who used the ROK™ straps but wanted something stronger. The UL straps are great for lighter loads or street riders that don’t subject their gear loads to the rigors of off-road riding.

The primary weakness of the UL straps is the plastic buckle. GCAG does offer replacement buckles should you ever break one. Carry one or two on a ride so you can easily replace the buckle in under a minute with no tools at all, if one should break. It is important to place the plastic buckle in a place where it will not be forced to bend or receive the highest load on bumps. In other words, don’t place the buckle at the high point of your pack or just above a solid but not flat object such as a steel water bottle or tire pump. The extra downward force and pressure on the plastic buckles can put them at risk of breaking. Of course this is not an issue with the original Mondo straps with the metal cam buckles.

On a solid item you are strapping, do not pull the UL straps as tightly as you possibly can. I broke a buckle strapping down a load of firewood. I was trying to make the load as snug as possible since any slack in the straps would allow the firewood to move over bumps and come loose. Since the firewood was solid, unlike a soft pack, it didn’t give under increased tension. As I pulled hard the weakest point of the buckle gave way. The original Mondo straps would be much better for strapping solid objects like firewood.

The Mondo straps are infinitely versatile and can even be used with the ring loops to create additional hitch points without the need for more straps. The final piece to mention is what to do with the extra loose webbing after you have tensioned your gear down. GCAG calls this “slack management.” If you always use the same size pack to strap down you can simply cut the extra webbing and then use a bit of flame to melt the edge of the freshly cut nylon to prevent fraying. Be sure not to cut it too short though so you can leave yourself enough slack to pull the webbing through the buckle.

Personally, I want to keep the length of the webbing so I can use the same straps for larger packs such as camping trips. In that case you can just tuck in the extra webbing under the tensioned webbing until there is no loose slack that can snag on something or flap around while you ride. GCAG also makes available a handy slack management tool they call a Web Dominator. It’s included in the UL kit and is a piece of plastic that slides under the tensioned webbing. You then take the extra slack and fold it over itself. Place the folded webbing on top of it and pull a piece of shock cord over and hook it down. The extra webbing stays locked in it.

The prices for the Mondo and Mondo UL straps are a bit more than some other straps but they use only the best materials, are made in the USA, and come with a lifetime warranty against any manufacturing defect for the original purchaser. The Mondo Straps kit (2 straps) is $35.99 and the Mondo UL Straps Kit is $33.25 and includes the Web Dominator slack management tool.

All of the parts are available for separate purchase including the Web Dominators, the ring loops, even a rubber cam bumper to provide protection against the metal cam on your gear. You can order online from GCAG directly at www.greenchileadv.com.

I review several types of straps available for motorcycles. The highlighted straps are the Mondo and Mondo UL straps from Green Chile Adventure Gear. www.greenchileADV.com

Written by Massimo Lorenzini

Introduction

While Giant Loop didn't invent the horseshoe design it was one of the first companies to see the benefit of this design for offroad and adventure luggage. The Great Basin and the smaller Coyote saddlebags have proven to be an interesting option for travel.

Giant Loop

Giant Loop is a USA company making and designing all their products in Oregon. With ownership changes recently we hope to see some new and less expensive options out of the company soon.

Construction

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The Great Basin is mostly made of a durable trucker’s tarp with ballistic nylon in high wear areas. The bag features YKK coil zippers with a magnetic water deflection flap and sewn in center organizer. The inner bags of the tested bag are not waterproof, although the newer version comes with sealed dry bags.

Pros

• Fits a variety of bikes
• Easy to install
• Made in USA

Cons

• Not water proof
• Expensive
• Single bag design makes repairs or damages a big deal
• No slack management for straps

As Tested: Giant Loop Great Basin $450.00 includes 4 inner bags and 1 heat shield.

The Competition

While the Giant Loop products have a large following there are some other players with great products that may be better in some areas.

The Green Chile ADV kit (reviewed here) is an excellent example of a kit that is much cheaper with more expandability options. Starting at around $269 for a full kit and offering many options the GCAG kit is worth a look before making a decision.

Another option is the Wolfman Expedition Dry Saddlebags (reviewed here). This kit includes two vinyl style saddlebags that are both waterproof and durable in a throw over design. These bags can be used without a rack on some models. Starting at about $259 (without rack) these bags can be used in conjunction with a tail bag if needed. If one bag is damaged it does not ruin the entire kit. The downfall, is they usually need a rack.

My Thoughts

I love the idea of no hard rack needed and do not agree with taking a light capable bike then adding 20 pounds to it. For this reason the Giant Loop products sparked my interest. 

At this price point I had hoped for a fully waterproof outer shell, but in order to fulfill the claim of waterproof the newer version comes with waterproof inner bags with a water resistant outer bag. This means anything not placed in a dry bag has the possibility of getting wet.

The single bag design does leave some durability to question. If you were to tear the outer bag on any side there is no way to simply replace that bag or piece. The entire Great Basin would be ruined. With no slack management options we ended up damaging one of the lower straps. If this strap broke, a new strap would have to be sewn in before use. (see photo)

Adding additional storage is simple if you only add one additional dry bag behind the Great Basin. But there is really no other expansion option.  

 For in town or commuting use the Great Basin seemed huge and out of place. For most this wouldn't be a deal breaker. I would rather have a smaller bag with expandability built in to make it more versatile.

I hate being this critical on this piece of luggage, however the price point is quite high.

I do hope to eventually test and review the smaller Coyote bag and I do feel that at its size and price may be a viable option. Look for further reviews of Giant Loop Products here on Spirit Strike.

Giant loop products can be purchased from various retailers including:

• Revzilla.com

• Motorcycle-Superstore.com

• Rockymountainatvmc.com

• Amazon.com

This article author is Jacob Roby. 

Summary

RAM Mounts' new X-grip is an easy option for mounting a phone on a motorcycle or in a vehicle. The combination of a great price point and the option of using different phones in the same mount make it an excellent choice for your motorcycle.

Intro

If you've been hiding under a rock you may have never heard of RAM Mounts or their extremely tough and versatile line of accessory mounting options. I have used RAM Mounts products for many different things ranging from gps mounts, phone mounts and my Doubletake mirror mounts (review link)(purchase link). My newest addition to the motorcycle was a RAM Mounts RAM X-grip Cell/IPhone holder. I had high expectations for this mount considering the other products in the RAM Mounts line.

Construction

This mount uses Ram’s 1” ball mounting hardware to make it as versatile as possible. The X-grip can be mounted in nearly any orientation, and mounted to almost anything. The 1” ball system can be used with handlebar mounts, suction or magnetic mounts, various threaded mounts or even a steering stem mount.

My personal solution has been a RAM Mounts X-grip mounted to a RAM short double socket arm that is attached to the handlebar clamps with RAM’s handlebar kit. This mounting style works well for me and has no extra bolts or pieces to get lost. The handlebar kit replaces a clamp bolt with one of their 1” balls that has an 8mm bolt through the middle.  

Performance

Once mounted, the X-grip is very solid. Four rubber coated and spring loaded arms protrude out and grip your phone tightly. All of this comes with RAM Mounts’ lifetime warranty. I think its a good idea to use a tether as a backup when using my X-grip, but I have never had my phone come out. After many hard miles on both my KLR650 and my DR650 the X-grip has earned its keep.

Final opinion

 Having my phone in view has completely changed riding for me. With my phone accessible I can use navigation apps with turn by turn directions and no dedicated gps is required. When stopped I can quickly look at my phone and see if I have any text messages or missed calls without removing my gloves and digging the phone out of a pocket. My wife feels better knowing I will see her text or missed calls at some point.

One thing you will notice is the phone is able to rotate a bit while mounted in the X-grip. It is securely attached to the mount, however because of its spring loaded design it allows some movement. I did not find this to be a problem, but some testers did mention this. If the rotation bothers you a small bit of velcro will prevent any movement.

 The mount can be turned from landscape to portrait quickly. I found this to be beneficial since navigation was easier with the phone in portrait.

During an extended ride on my Kawasaki KLR650 the x grip did vibrate some and leave a mark on the back of my Iphone’s Otterbox case. This is simply a cosmetic problem, however it is something to note. Perhaps adding a piece of cushioning foam or velcro to the center post would have corrected this issue.

All things considered, I feel like this is an excellent mount. The value is amplified when you consider the lifetime warranty and the fact that you will never have to buy a different mount if you change phones.

As Tested

Below you will see the exact prices for each mount piece I used to attach the X-grip to either my Suzuki DR650 or Kawasaki KLR650 dual sport motorcycles. Each of these items can be purchased directly from Amazon using the links below.

RAM Mounts X-grip: $20.97

RAM Mounts short arm: $9.20

RAM Mounts handlebar clamp bolt mount: $10.87

Total as tested: $41.04

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By Jacob Roby. More information on this author can be found here: www.spiritstrike.com/jacob-roby

I haven’t worn a leather jacket on a bike in at least 10 years.  I switched to textiles mainly due to the availability of high quality, multi seasonal protection.  I started riding on the street in 1984 wearing a US Navy Pilot’s jacket given to me by my father, a retired USN Deep Sea Diver.  That leather jacket was a year older than me!  It was the only jacket I had ever seen him wear.  Well cared for, completely broken in and just buttery soft, it was the coolest jacket in the world to me.   Now, wearing the scars from a couple of minor “offs“ over thousands of miles and the silent witness to more things than I’ll admit, the jacket is retired and living the good life. 

 Recently I was offered the opportunity to sample and review a new VikingCycle leather jacket from Motorcyclehouse.com.  I decided it was indeed time for some hide in my motorcycle life again and being a fan of the classics chose the Angel Fire Motorcycle jacket.  You know the style.  Think Brando in ‘The Wild One’, The Ramones or even Schwarzenegger in ‘The Terminator’.  The iconic biker jacket.  If I’m going to wear another leather jacket on a bike it’s going to be the standard.  Decision made.

 Pulling up the jacket’s page at Motorcyclehouse.com I followed the instructions on the Fitment & Installation tab.  Falling between sizes, I chose the larger, an XXL.  The jacket was ordered and it arrived 2 days later – fast.  Well packed in corrugated brown paper, I excitedly dug my way into the box pulling out the jacket.  First impressions were good.  Nice grain and uniform color and stitching.  I pulled it out of the plastic protector bag and unzipped to try it on.

Negative Ghost Rider, the pattern is full.

Now, I’m 5’9” & 225 pounds, kind of broad chested and a bit of table muscle, but I used REAL measurements and their sizing tables.  The jacket was not going to encapsulate me; the zipper had a 2” gap and there was no room to move my arm & shoulders.  I emailed Motorcyclehouse.com about the issue and was contacted immediately.  A replacement jacket sized XXXL was shipped and I was emailed a shipping label to send the original jacket back, easy enough.  I dropped the smaller jacket off at FedEx, the larger jacket arrived 2 days later and out of the box was just as impressive as the first.  And it fit really well, no sucking it in to zip and fasten the belt! 

 Slipping it on you notice it does have a bit of weight to it and it’s nicely put together.  All the seams are straight and tight, the YKK main zipper is smooth operating and substantial as are all the pocket zips.  All the snaps are tight and the belt fits well with good slack management so it won’t whip in the wind.  There’s 2 big inside pockets, 2 hand warmer pockets, a breast pocket and a smaller pocket with the snap low on the front just a little too small for an iPhone 6.  The sleeve openings, however, are huge.  So much so that I don’t need to unzip them to don or doff the jacket and allowing the sleeves to hang down completely over my hands. It’s better on the bike.  Arms out - grabbing the bars the sleeves fall right at your wrist but then they act as big scoops for cold air if not tucked into (big) gloves.  This is awkward and a little uncomfortable because of the amount of excess that’s crammed into the glove gauntlet and being squeezed against your arm.  You feel really cool, though.  Way cool.

Another minor issue I found was the liner irritated my skin at the crook of the elbow.  It felt as though something was poking me but I found nothing when I ran my hand up the sleeve.  This was noticeable on both arms and it could not be felt when I wore a long sleeve shirt.  I’m not sure if it is the lining material or maybe the thread stitching it.  Guess I need to just suck it up and quit being such a wuss.  I can always wear a long sleeved t-shirt underneath; nobody will suspect I’m a poser with delicate skin. 

Off the bike it’s a rather comfortable jacket.  There’s more than enough storage for my phone, keys & a couple Dominican robustos.  The past couple weeks have seen temps from the low 20s to about 70 with wind and rain.  Wearing it daily, much to the chagrin of my wife and 17 year old niece, I’ve been plenty warm and really appreciated the wind protection on the blustery days.  It feels really cool too, did I mention.  Time to ride.

The weather cooperated and I was finally able to try the jacket out on the bike.  I even wore my black leather chaps, boots, and gloves.  Yes, and long sleeved t-shirt.  Captain Jeff, full-on biker dude.  A rolling stereotype if you will.  Once on the road, I realized how well this jacket worked.  Comfortable, everything is covered, no wind down the neck blowing up like the Stay Puft marshmallow man.  Plenty of room to move without pulling the jacket up getting that stupid Igor look with the shoulders of the jacket at ear level.  You know - those kinds of things.  300 miles later, I’m digging it, totally forgot about the jacket it was so comfortable and just enjoyed the wind.  That’s a good thing as ole Martha says.

Here I should tell you I am a firm believer in ATGATT.  All my other riding gear is armored, chosen to protect me and used EVERY time I ride no matter the temps or conditions.  I must, however, point out; there is no armor or even a pocket for adding any in this jacket.  It felt a little odd at first.  I will not ride in anything I don’t trust to protect me from harm, regardless of its source or cost.  I truly believe this jacket would stand up to an “off” protecting me from the dreaded rash and I’m willing to accept the possible injury the lack of armor brings.  Something you should consider for yourself as a rider.

In summary the Angel Fire motorcycle jacket features:  

• Nice leather, fairly heavy weight.
• Well put together with nice stitching.
• Sturdy YKK zippers and quality snaps.
• Good storage, many pockets
• Makes you feel really cool.

A couple places for improvement would be:

• Sizing inconsistencies.
• Shrink the sleeve opening a bit.
• Add pockets for adding armor to the elbows, shoulders, and back.

Overall, I would absolutely recommend the Angel Fire as a great leather motorcycle jacket for use on or off the saddle, it’s an incredible value.  Nice leather well put together with good hardware that should last for years with a little care.  Even my wife has come around and now likes the look, the niece not so much.  And it just looks and feels so cool.  Like, hit the jukebox and your song plays kind of cool.  You know what I’m saying.  Looking good Billy Ray!  Feeling good Louis!

When you decide to go motocamping, the first thing most people start thinking about is a shelter system. I call it shelter because there are options other than a tent. Only you can decide what is best for your adventure. 

Things to consider

• Packable size and weight

If you are riding your motorcycle offroad size and weight make a huge difference in handling. Space is also limited on a motorcycle, especially if you are riding a smaller bike like a Yamaha WR250R or a Suzuki DRZ400. The only downside to finding a shelter that packs small and light is price. It is a wise move to spend as much as you can afford to keep your shelter small and light.

• Pole Configuration

Not all shelter systems need poles, but if you choose a system that needs poles try to pick a system that is as simple as possible. Gimmicks will cost more and leave you with a less reliable system. If something happens and you break a cheaply made pole you will have to figure out a way to make it work. Aluminum poles are both light and reliable. Good quality shelters will also include a splint to help repair a pole if you break one.

• Ease of use

When you have been riding all day and you are trying to set up camp in the dark or in the rain you will be glad you chose a system that is quick and easy to setup. If you choose to go for a tent, pick one that is self-standing. That way you can pitch your tent and easily move it to an ideal location. Any tent that requires guy lines to stand up will be more difficult to pitch.

• Capacity

Many riders have multiple shelters they can choose between based on the trip they have planned. Some riders prefer to go ultralight and use a hammock or a bivy. Other riders go the opposite way and opt for maximum room with something like a Redverz tent that is large enough to park your bike inside. Most riders choose a shelter that has capacity for an extra person so they will have room for gear.

• Gear Storage

If you want to shelter your gear from the elements there are several options. Some hammocks have ways to hang gear underneath. You can pick a tent that has extra room and some tents offer vestibules that make great gear shelters. Other riders may opt for something as simple as a tarp for gear. It is a wise choice to have some kind of gear shelter. The last thing you want in the morning is soggy boots or snow filled riding pants. 

• Camping Locations and Conditions

Where you camp can have a lot to do with the shelter you choose. If you are camping in the desert a hammock is a poor choice since there are no trees. On the other hand, if you will be in a forested environment with uneven ground a hammock may be the best choice available. If you are camping in the snow you need a four season tent. It will keep you warmer and withstand the weight of snow better and high winds. If you are going to be in a very wet and rainy situation it would be wise to pick a tent that can be pitched with the rain fly first so you can keep your sleeping area dry. 

• Ventilation and Rain Fly

Picking a shelter system with great ventilation prevents condensation from building up on the inside. The colder it gets the more condensation will build up. A sturdy rain fly that gives thorough coverage can make or break your experience if it gets wet. A quality rain fly setup is a good place to spend your money. With a single wall tent if the rain fly gets wet and starts to sag it may touch the inner tent. If that happens a leak could occur. A quality rain fly and tent design will have very little sag when it gets wet and there will be an adequate air space between the fly and inner tent.

• Color

This may seem trivial, but the color of your tent can make it more comfortable. If you have a light colored tent you will be able to see better when the sun comes up. Your headlamp will light it up better at night and you will be able to find it easier if you stray from camp at night. In fact, the only downside I can think of with a light colored tent is for reasons of stealth. If you are camping in a place where you may not have permission a color that blends with the surroundings may help you remain unseen.

• Taped Seams

Any high quality shelter will come with taped seams, but if you opt to purchase a cheap shelter make sure your seams are taped. Shelters will leak if the seams are not taped. On cheaper shelters you may need to do this yourself. No matter what, make sure they are taped before you go camping.

Breakdown By Styles

Bivy

Pros:

• Small and lightweight.
• Quick and Easy to setup and take down.
• Easy to find a camp spot where there isn't much open space.

Cons: 

• Can feel restricting if you get stuck for a longer period of time.
• Not much room to shelter gear from the weather.
• Condensation can be a problem since there isn't much air space inside.
• Hard to change clothes or prepare meals inside the bivy.
• When it’s cold, the thicker clothing and heavier sleeping bags required can be tough to fit in a bivy.

Tips:

• Use a ground cloth to help protect your bivy from wet ground and thorns.
• If you have a tarp or poncho that can be pitched over the entrance to your bivy it can help keep water out of your shelter while getting in and out.

Example: Black Diamond Spotlight Bivy

Tent

Pros:

• Come in a variety of shapes, sizes, prices, and features.
• The most versatile of shelter types.
• Warm and comfortable.
• Enough room to be comfortable if the weather is bad.
• Enough room to protect your gear. Especially with options like vestibules.

Cons:

• Needs poles and stakes. These can be failure points.
• Some styles can be complex to pitch and may not be freestanding.

Tips:

• Choose a tent with a footprint available. It will extend the life of your tent and add extra water protection.
• Purchase the smallest, lightest tent you can afford that suits your needs. The weight and space savings will be worth it when you ride offroad.
• Choose a freestanding model.
• Look for features like vestibules for extra gear protection.
• If you will be sharing a tent with another person consider a model with two entrances.

Example: MSR Hubba Hubba NX

Hammock

Pros: 

• Very small and lightweight.
• One of the most comfortable for sleeping.
• Quick and easy to hang and pack up.
• The most comfortable on uneven ground.

Cons:

• Can only be used where there are trees
• Can be cold in the winter since you have cold air underneath.

Tips:

• Make sure you have a good hanging system.
• Choose an option with a gear hanger underneath and a tarp above you.
• In the winter be sure to get an insulated sleep pad to help stay warm.

Example: ENO OneLink Hammock Shelter System

Specialty

This category is for the garage style tents like the Redverz.

Pros:

• Tons of room to protect all of your stuff.
• Plenty of room to stretch out in if weather is bad.

Cons:

• One of the largest and heaviest tents.
• More difficult to pitch and pack up.
• Not freestanding.
• Harder to find a suitable place to pitch your tent since you need a larger area.

Tips:

• Since guy lines are required, make sure you have some good stakes that work well for the terrain you will be camping on.
• Carry extra paracord to repair any guy lines.
• Share the tent with somebody. If you spread the load it will reduce the burden of the extra size and weight.

Example: Redverz Expedition II

Introduction

The Kawasaki KLR650 and the Suzuki DR650 have remained virtually unchanged for many years. Some say that this is largely due to the fact that they got it right the first time. Others think it’s simply a cost saving tactic. Whatever the answer is, we know that these two bikes deserve a true battle to see who is better. Having owned both a 2000 Kawasaki KLR650 (sold in 2014) and now owning a 2000 Suzuki DR650 (15k miles and counting) I felt like I could write this article objectively. I’m going to tell you the good and the bad about both motorcycles so you can hopefully ride the bike that is perfect for you.

Kawasaki KLR650

The KLR comes in two basic flavors, Gen1 and Gen2. The Gen1 KLR650 is a dual sport motorcycle intended for both paved and unpaved roads. The Gen1 KLR was first introduced in 1987 and did not get an update until 2007. The Gen1 KLR is usually referred to as more dirt oriented than the Gen2 because there are no large fairings to receive damage.

In 2008 the Gen2 KLR was introduced and was essentially the same motorcycle but with a more elaborate gauge cluster and larger fairing. The engine, brakes, swingarm and suspension have some very minor differences but the rest of the motorcycle is almost directly interchangeable. Gen2 motorcycles were known to have oil burning issues that plagued the KLR for many years. Some experts say that the issues stemmed from out of round cylinder bores, or poorly seating rings. There is not a known year mark where the oil burning issue ceases, but most cases are from 2008-2010 models.

Another known issue for the Gen1 and Gen2 klr650 is a balancer system that is somewhat prone to failure. In some cases this can be catastrophic. There are several companies that offer a replacement but I suggest you purchase a genuine Eagle Mikes brand balancer adjustment lever. This part is commonly referred to as the “doohickey”. 

Tipping the scales at roughly 402 pounds wet weight the KLR is not a light bike. Once moving this weight is not as noticeable, and the motorcycle feels balanced. On road the KLR feels planted, although a little sluggish.

Adding preload to the shock helps the KLR to feel more planted in corners and handle heavier loads. The KLR does not have a full range of adjustments but it does have a preload adjuster that can be easily adjusted without special tools. Although, this adjuster is also prone to breaking.

The motor on the KLR is unique in the way it feels. The motor likes to be short shifted and not revved high, and feels most natural low in the rpm’s. You can nearly feel the “thump” of the cylinder while riding up hills or when accelerating hard. The KLR’s predictable nature helps keep traction in loose terrain and is easier on a newer rider who may enter an obstacle a gear high and need the extra low end torque.

The KLR needs a few things before it is worthy of a trip across the states, or around the world. The first invest should be a genuine Eagle Mikes “doohickey” upgrade. While ordering, another worthy investment would be a jet kit and subframe bolt upgrade kit. The factory subframe bolts on the KLR are weak and prone to breaking if loaded with saddlebags or ridden over washboard roads. The factory rear shock is weak at best and usually under sprung and dampened. It would be wise to upgrade the shock and fork springs for your weight. Also the factory skid plate is plastic so if you plan on serious offroading i suggest you look at another option like THESE.

Suzuki DR650

The Suzuki DR650 began life in 1990 but had a major revision in 1996 which is the DR we know today. There are very few of the pre 1996 DR’s still on the road.

The 1996+ Suzuki DR650 or as it is actually designated the DR650se is a 644cc single cylinder dual sport motorcycle similar to the KLR650.

The DR has no tachometer, fuel gauges, or other non-essential hardware on the dash. A simple speedometer and warning lights hide behind the small headlight fairing. This lack of instruments adds to the simplistic or minimalist feel of the DR. It feels like you are on a much more dirt oriented motorcycle.  

The suspension on the DR is not incredibly adjustable, however it does have factory lowering options built in. The rear shock can be moved to a different lower mount and the spring flipped in order to lower the rear of the motorcycle. To lower the forks, they must be disassembled and the top out spring must be moved along with a spacer. This feature is unique and should help the DR fit a wider range of riders.

While the KLR builds its power much lower in the rev range, the DR feels a bit different. Power comes on strong in the mid-range and continues to build. The engine does flame out more when lugged, and likes to stay at a higher rpm than the KLR.

The DR needs a few things before its worthy of a long adventure. With its small tank you will be limited on your distance between stops. I suggest you purchase the IMS aftermarket tank. Investing in a proper skid plate would be wise since there is no factory plate on the DR. Suzuki offers a factory plate available HERE, or you can get a simple MSR plate available HERE. If you plan on carrying luggage and want a rack there are three really cool options: Factory Suzuki rack, Pro Moto Billet rack, or the Dirtracks version. If you chose not to install a rack you can use the Green Chile Adventure Gear kit since no rack is required.

The winner

Rather than declaring an outright winner I decided to declare a winner of each category and let you decide what is more important between them. Remember that everyone is different and their needs may be different. I hope you can view these results without bias to whatever bike you own.

Value

Ergonomics, ride quality, and style aside, value is a large reason anyone purchases one motorcycle vs another. There are some brands or bikes that demand a premium but for the average buyer has to weigh cost into the buying experience. The dual sport market is very competitive today, just as it was when these motorcycles first came out. The KLR was first out of the gate and hit hard with the value oriented people. This motorcycle came from the factory with a plastic skid plate, a factory rack, windshield, and tachometer.

Probably the biggest selling point was the huge rack and grab handles on the KLR. This meant that you could leave the dealership and strap your favorite milk crate to it without placing an order for an aftermarket rack. The DR on the other hand does not come with a factory rack of any kind but Suzuki offers one at an additional price.

The DR is a great value in comparison to other motorcycles, but its not a better value than the KLR. The KLR offers more to the buyer for the money.

The winner of the Value category goes to the KLR650.

Capabilities

Both motorcycles are very capable. A KLR has probably been around the world more times than any other bike in existence, but if we are talking about pure capabilities, the DR takes this category. The DR can do anything the KLR can do, but with a much narrower frame and nearly 50 pounds lighter the DR can handle the rough trail riding easier.

In my experience I was more willing to ride the DR into areas I would have never taken the KLR due to the lower weight and more dirt friendly ergonomics.

The winner of the Capabilities category is the DR650!

Reliability

Both machines are pretty reliable. One thing that weighs very heavy into the ownership of these machines is that the average person can work on them. They are both carbureted, both have no elaborate electronics or dealer only serviceable items.

Both the KLR and the DR have their faults though. A quick search online will almost scare a perspective owner away from these bikes. In their defense, I have never seen a dual sport that didn't have some sort of factory defect.

On the KLR you have the “doohickey” problem where at any given time your adjuster chain could go slack and destroy the engine. The rear shock likes to wear out even when not ridden hard and the swingarm mounts tend to seize up if not serviced. The “doohickey” isn’t a horrible job to do yourself, but it can be a little much for some owners. Luckily, Eagle Mike offers great support for his products and with a simple call or email can walk you through most anything. 2008 and newer KLR’s tend to burn oil due to either poorly seating rings or out of round cylinder bores.

The DR is not without its faults. Suzuki is notorious about having the nsu (neutral sending unit) bolts loose from the factory. These are an easy fix, however you must remove the right side cover and the clutch in some cases. Most people agree that using a thread locker is the best solution.

For some reason, the DR likes to leak oil. There are far more posts and comments online about the DR leaking oil than the KLR. For many years the DR used a paper base gasket that was guaranteed to fail. They eventually swapped to a metal base gasket nearly solving the issue. Another leak prone area is the cam chain tensioner. I have seen this leak on both the KLR and the DR, but most of the time it is a problem on the DR.

Both bikes suffer from an apparent lack of grease in Japan. It seems like every bearing, pivot or axle is given the bare minimum to make it past the warranty. It would be wise to lube everything with a high quality waterproof grease.

The winner of the Reliability category is going to be a tie between both bikes. Both the KLR650 and the DR650 are on par with each other.

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Maintenance

The maintenance on either bike is not difficult. Each one has its quirks and you will need a service manual to get it right. Picking the winner for this category is simple for me. The DR is simply easier to work on than the KLR. The DR has a completely different valve adjustment type than the KLR and can be adjusted with simple hand tools. On the KLR you will either need to have a large assortment of valve shims handy, or a dealer that stocks them close by. Each time you adjust the valves you will check gap, order shims and wait. Sometimes this can take over a week.

The DR has no radiator or coolant to maintain, and no balancer to adjust at each oil change. Even changing a tire or adjusting the chain is easier due to the snail type adjusters. The clear winner for me in this category is the Dr.

The winner of the Maintenance category is the Suzuki DR650!

Service Life

Both of these motorcycles if serviced regularly will last a long time. It is common to see these motorcycles with more than 50,000 hard miles on them. With long term use the DR will probably need a bottom end replaced, while the KLR will probably need the top end gone through. The bottom end of the KLR seems to be a little tougher in the long run.  Naming a winner in this section would be hard to do since there are so many variables.

For the Service Life category I am declaring it a tie. Both the KLR and the DR can have a long service life if treated well.

Online Support

There is a large online following for the KLR that is simply not there for the DR. There are your experts floating around on the forums, but there are far fewer posts or forums dedicated to the DR. With the KLR you can simply search for any repair or problem and will be instantly taken to thousands of posts and solutions from other riders. Posting up on one of the many forums or facebook groups will instantly get you much needed answers.

For the KLR, there is one major forum dedicated to it, that if it were not for the overbearing moderation would be great. The people on that particular forum are there to share rides and help in any way possible. The owner however simply wants you to become a premium (paid) member.

The DR on the other hand has a much smaller web presence. There are not nearly as many posts or forums dedicated to it. While the DR forum is more user friendly thanks to a helpful and friendly staff, it just does not have as many members. This is partially due to the DR having much lower sales than the KLR.

The winner of the online support category is the mighty KLR650.

Parts Availability

This category is going to be both aftermarket parts and factory used parts lumped into one. Since it is almost required that you modify your motorcycle using aftermarket parts the availability or options are important. Another thing you should be aware of is the availability of used parts. Generally, used parts are cheaper than new parts but sometimes they are harder to find

In the case of the DR, used parts are harder to find. Used DR motors go for a premium and are rarely found for sale. The KLR on the other hand literally has millions of used parts floating around and in some cases you can snag a parts bike off craigslist for cheap. This limitation for the DR is not a deal breaker, however you may need to shop around more or purchase your parts new.

Both bikes have many aftermarket parts available, but the KLR has more. There are simply more companies that produce parts for the KLR than they do for the DR. Lately companies like JNS Engineering has started producing some nice aftermarket parts, but they have been producing KLR parts for a couple years now.

The winner of the parts availability category is the mighty KLR650.

I hope you enjoyed this comparison of two great dual sport machines. While I had hoped my DR would win each category I knew once I started writing it wouldn’t. There are simply too many things we ask these bikes to do. Your opinion may be different. In the gallery below you will find many great pictures that the owners were kind enough to donate to this article. Both the KLR and the DR are well represented.

We love to hear from our readers. Please leave a comment and let us know which bike you think should win. If you enjoyed the article share it to your friends. Spirit Strike appreciates you for reading its articles.

This article written by Jacob Roby, writer and motorcycle enthusiast. You can contact Jacob at jacob@spiritstrike.com

Intro

LiFePO (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries are often misunderstood. The battery chemistry is different from what many of us are used to working with. When we try to apply best practices and previous knowledge of other battery chemistries to a LiFePO battery it leads to damaged LiFePO batteries and disappointment. I hope this article helps you understand some of the differences and  clears up any confusion you may have had about LiFePO batteries.

Chemistry

The LiFePO chemistry is more stable than Lithium Ion batteries. As such, the LiFePO batteries will not burn and catch on fire like the Lithium Ion battery chemistry. An overcharge situation can cook a LiFePO battery and they can smoke, but will not burn. I can give a firsthand account on this. My voltage regulator failed and cooked my brand new LiFePO battery. The case started to melt and deform, but no fire!

Since the LiFePO battery is not based on a lead chemistry there is a lot of weight savings.

Charging

The LiFePO battery is best charged at 13.6 - 14.4 volts. Much more than 14.4 and you will cook the battery. Most auto and motorcycle charging systems easily fall into this range, but I did install a volt meter when I put my battery in so I could monitor the charging system.

The LiFePO batteries will charge a lot faster than an AGM or lead acid battery. With a 10-15 AMP charger designed for the LiFePO batteries you can get a full charge in as little as 15 minutes!

The LiFePO batteries are made up of individual cells wired in series in the case. These cells will have minor differences in electrical attributes and will become unbalanced over time. It is good practice to put your LiFePO battery on a balance charger after each oil change. Balance chargers aren’t very expensive and it will even up all your battery cells to get a good service life and performance out of it.

You can use a trickle charger if you need to, as long as there is no desulfation mode. Battery Tender brand chargers will work, but the ideal charger for this type of battery is a balance charger.

It is not good practice to keep a LiFePO battery on a trickle charger like many people do with traditional batteries. The LiFePO battery has a very slow self-discharge rate. They can sit all winter and be ready to go as long as nothing is draining the battery while it sits.

Discharge

One advantage of LiFePO batteries over traditional batteries is the discharge curve. A LiFePO battery will put out a steady voltage without dropping output almost to the end of full discharge. You have to keep the discharge curve in mind. Traditional batteries give you a bit of warning when they are getting weak. The LiFePO will go from full power to low power quickly when you discharge it too far.

Traditional batteries can be discharged all the way and can often be charged back up. With a LiFePO battery a 100% discharge will likely ruin your battery. It is best to not discharge below 10 volts.

People often notice that the cranking power seems to stay very strong compared to traditional batteries and it has to do with the discharge curve. They really are full strength for longer. 

With that being said, I have had two of my batteries discharged to 1.5 volts. Most chargers will not start a cycle if the battery is below 3 volts. I took a car battery charger on a 2 amp charge setting and brought the batteries up to about 8 volts in a matter of seconds. Then I was able to use my balance charger to bring the battery back to full voltage. This type of situation is not ideal and I am sure that I shortened the service life of my battery by allowing it to discharge so far, but it illustrates the resiliency of the LiFePO chemistry.

One downside to LiFePO batteries compared to other chemistries is in amp hours. Amp hours is how long a battery can last with a smaller output for a longer period of time. Traditional chemistries usually have more amp hours than a LiFePO battery.

Environment and Use

When temperatures approach freezing it is hard on all batteries. However, LiFePO batteries get weak in cold weather, but there is an easy fix. Just turn your switch on and when the battery starts to discharge the chemical reaction will warm the battery internally. I have experienced this first hand in the winter. I have tried to start the bike when its very cold and I thought I had a dead battery. Then I remembered I switched to LiFePO. I let my headlight burn for about 1 minute and it fired right up.

I had a problem with a lead acid battery in my KLR during offroad rides. I fall a lot and acid can leak out. With a LiFePO battery all the cells are separate and protected in a ballistic case. They are more tolerant to rugged use.

Creative Uses

The LiFePO batteries are a lot smaller and they are very powerful for their size. The 8 cell version is what most motorcycles use and they save a lot of weight and space in a battery box. However, a 4 cell is enough to crank many motorcycles. I have seen people replace their traditional batteries with an 8 cell LiFePO battery and add another 4 cell emergency battery in the same battery box. They have a spare emergency battery in the same space and still have a weight savings. This could be a huge deal in building a RTW adventure bike or for any ride where you will be on your own and far away.

Popular Brands

• Shorai - Probably the most well known brand.
• Alien Motion - These are the batteries I have used and I have been satisfied
• Antigravity - Probably the second biggest brand.
• Ballistic Performance - They are manufactured in Plymouth, Wisconsin and they have more case size options than other manufacturers. If it is important to you to match the OEM battery size, this is the brand to look at.
• EarthX - This brand is expensive, but it has built in electronics to protect the battery and balance the cells. No special charger is needed. 

If you have any questions or you if you have some information to add please post it in the comments below.