Spoonfed Style

Portobello Inspiration: Kimono Prints

2012-02-11T06:33:00.000-08:00

Dreams.....Meadham Kirchoff S/S 12

2012-02-11T06:27:00.000-08:00

LFW September 2011

2011-10-02T13:12:00.000-07:00

Laura Helen Searle....Final Collection

2011-04-20T12:54:00.000-07:00

A little update on the new graduate designer.......

Check out her final collection Manifesto

www.laurahelensearle.blogspot.com

Introducing.....Laura Helen Searle...

2011-01-01T09:47:00.000-08:00

As part of my mission to 'Introduce' new designers and graduates, I was browsing the internet for new blogs that showcase these new creatives and came across this one.....

Graduating this year in June from Kingston University....this is one young fashion graduate to watch...

Laura Helen Searle

(Follow the link to view her portfolio)

We'll have to wait for her final collection, but here are some images to wet your creative taste buds.....

Taking the theme of 'Revealing by Concealing' these sculptural experimental pieces take the classic patterns of clothing and abstract them, cleverly concealing volume and revealing it from clean, minimalist shapes.

Attention to seaming details and weights of fabric are simple and clean, but these images seem to evoke a serene quality, questioning garment construction.

The body underneath is a key element to the designs- the clothes weave around the parts of the body often left covered by clothing.

Keep your eyes peeled for more updates on this new, young designer.

Spoonfed Style

p.s. If you have any further enquiries please email me at: spoonfedstyle@gmail.com or Laura directly at: laurahsearle@googlemail.com

PROFILE: The Max Mara woman.....

2010-10-12T10:02:00.000-07:00

SS 2011- 'Paired down...'- there was a big change in Max Mara's collection for the SS season. The brand has really embraced the minimal trend- classics have been simplified down to the basics and colours are fresh and clean. Moving towards more of a Celine-feel. Backs were cut out to break up the solidity of fabric. Knits were pure white, but were textural.

AW 2010/11- 'Winter gold'- AW season is when you see Max Mara's signature. Statement pieces were glamourous with a military twist, yet simple enough to be wearable. A classic camel coat is always present in an AW Max Mara collection. The collection's graphic quality e.g. the fair-isle knits gave it a more modern edge, current fashion edge.

AW 2009/10- This collection was a case of the classic Max Mara palette, with elements of boldness in ket pieces e.g. a postbox red trench coat. The styling of the clothes was what most interested me in this collection. The shirt hem and jumper peak out below jacket hems in the same tone, but subtly different textures. Luxurious tailoring fabrics and wool keep Max Mara's tradition of high quality elegance.

PROFILE: The Céline girl......

2010-10-10T06:41:00.000-07:00

An insight into the way Phoebe Philo works at Céline (NB: If the content does not show please double click on the video to view from YouTube):

It's not really that hard to realise that another brand I've chosen to profile is Celine. Pheobe Philo's current influence on the brand is doing as much for Celine as she did for Chloe 10 years ago. It's clear from watching interviews with Philo that Celine is, like Chloe, all about the elegant luxury lifestyle. Considering the modern woman's wardrobe is key....

AW Collections 2006/7 & 2007/8- 'The evolution begins...'- Celine collections are beginning to evolve. Although these collections don't fully resemble today's Celine I was drawn to the knitwear. They show you were the brand's come from...The mohair knits over lining fabric for winter coats was something that I hadn't seen before...

AW 2008/9- 'More structure please..'- a much more structural interpretation of Celine, this collection featured chunky, structured knits and a less simplified silhouette. Colours were more intense, fur was voluminous.

SS 2010- 'Graphic girl...'

It's Phoebe Philo's first collection for Celine.

'the trend book she left on our seats was nothing if not tantalising: black and white grainy photographs of nude models behind not-quite-closed doors, Marilyn Monroe, Dustin Hoffman, David Bowie, animals, children, supermodels, cigarettes and general nakedness. As inspiration goes, this was quite a show we were about to see.' - Dolly Jones- Vogue.com

PROFILE: the Chloé girl.......

2010-10-09T15:43:00.000-07:00

Let's talk about the Chloé girl....

Former artistic directors include Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, who's now impressing everybody at the new design director at Celine. Currently Chloe is headed up by Hannah MacGibbon.

A snapshot of STADIUMAGAZINE's interpretation of a Chloe collection...

Chloe advert from the 1970's

Taking a wider look at the Chloé collections from the last 10 years, let alone the progression of the brand from the early 1950's, the brand has changed significantly.

So let's have a look at highlights from the past 5 years- changing design directors, changing styles:

'Out on her own...'- AW 2006/7- After Phoebe Philo's departure this was the first collection from Chloe without a design director. The sense of masculinity is obvious, but the 'Chloe look' is one of effortless elegance. The design inspiration centre's around dressing a young woman for stylish living.....

'A Chloé girl rebellion'- AW 2007/8- Paolo Melim Andersson (prev. at Marni). This collection wasn't a resounding success- but clever constructions and detailing aren't exactly far away from today's Chloe style. Hand painted tweeds and luxury fabrics are really exploited here.

SS 2009- 'Signature style...'- colour and recognisable detail were key to this collection. The scalloped edges were reproduced everywhere after Chloe showed the SS 2009 collection. After a time without a head designer, MacGibbon really started to make her own mark on the brand- an aesthetic that continues today. Chloe clothing becomes far more commercial at this point.

AW 2009/10- 'A quality focus....'- one of the main reason I'm so drawn to Chloe is their consideration of quality- it seems to be a the forefront of their design philosophy. There is a couture quality about Chloe- yet a minimalism that makes it modern. The style is effortless, easy glamour. This collection was specifically inspired by the illustrations on Antonio Lopez:

AW 2010/11- 'Iconic MacGibbon....' The 'Chloe' colour palette has become established. Subtle surface textures, such as melange knits and leather quilting break up the wool textures of the collection. Chloe is definitely a lifestyle brand- luxury is priority, as I said above. Most of the garments are based on masculine pieces, made over-sized for women. There is a definite 70's influence at this point.

Chloe clothes on the move ( SS 2010 advert):

A vintage wardrobe......

2010-10-09T07:16:00.000-07:00

It's like taking a look inside a treasure chest.....

Vintage is something I have a great passion for- I mean recently vintage clothes are the only new (new to me anyway!) things I've bought.

Have a look at some of the photographs I took yesterday of our new vintage collection acquired by Kingston University:

Interestingly the key to successfully using vintage is 'modernity'- choosing the details, construction and so on that you can recreate and still create something that fits in with current design. There's no use in totally recreating a vintage piece as it will always look retro. Nearly every everyone does it...from established fashion companies e.g. Jaeger to Mark Jacobs....

Must keep this is mind for my design projects...

Laura

Peekaboo: A Japanese fixation......

2010-10-06T02:08:00.000-07:00

THE THEME: 'Sakoku (鎖国 literally locked country) was the foreign relations policy of Japan under which no foreigner could enter nor could any Japanese leave the country on penalty of death...'

Think about the sense of Japanese order, precision and clean lines......

Japanese abstract thinking was the inspiration for Hussein Chalayan's SS 2011 collection. Reading more about the show, he wanted to create the idea of a cultural isolation which textures and colours then penetrated.

It was all about revealing textures from the underneath of solidity. Cutting parts of a garment away to reveal others.

More feminine tulle skirts protruded from underneath heavier, boxy, long coats.

Chalayan said, during an interview, that Japanese thinking is easily represented by their packaging design.....

THEMES: “decentered,” “wrapping in transition,” and “floating body.”

'Floating Body' pieces were not as detached from the body as perhaps Margiela, but took on their own anonymity. The colours became more give the work a fresher, more wearable feel.

A seemingly simple garment has been transformed by the clever panelling in the side of this dress.

This trapeze-silhouette leads the eye down, from a classic shirt shape to an experimental hem line.

Chalayan, like Gareth Pugh decided to dedicate his creative focus on a film, rather than a catwalk show. He was trying to embody the mood of his concept- something that just cannot be achieved on a live catwalk. At one point, black covered, anonymous 'performers' circles one of the dresses creative movements in the fabric. There is an energy and tension in fashion film that is difficult to translate into any other medium...

See the video below:

http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjExOTUxMDYw.html

Laura

Not just for children....surely.......

2010-10-05T16:47:00.000-07:00

Whilst having a nose for original backstage photograph I stumbled across a stunning editorial featuring an Antwerp design graduate from 2008. Over the past few weeks, whilst covering the fashion weeks there has been plenty of knitwear, but the shoot for Ann Ecker's graduate collection was too good to skip over.

The photographs are arresting...that's all I can say really.....

They have a hand-made, childish quality, but the chose of colour palette makes them more sophisticated, design wise, than most childrenswear.

Laura

TREND: RAW....the return of the artisan......

2010-10-05T16:30:00.000-07:00

Paris Fashion Week is drawing to a close and an emerging trend I've noticed seems to follow on from the couture silhouettes that we've seen from Jil Sander. Couture is a dying art, but it seems designers are starting to embrace the artisan and explore these 'hand-made' techniques in a RTW collection.

Again, like Jil Sander, it's couture, but not as we know it. This couture is toned down, minimal and wearable...

CELINE: ' beauty is raw...'

Texture Palette- Raw silk handwovens, raw canvas, quilting, raw fringing...

Silhouettes from Celine for SS 2011 are beginning to move away from the body- silhouettes are more oversized and flowing- still recognisably Celine for beautiful simplicity of design, but a new sense of freedom...

VERONIQUE LEROY: 'the modern pilgrim....'

THE INSPIRATION: Medieval Pilgrims of Santiago de Composela, Italy.

Leroy chose to use raw fabrics, such as jute, wide-woven linens and rough tweeds.

Designers are beginning to strip back 'fancy' fabrics, looking at the natural beauty of raw fabrics.

Colours were kept neutral with warm tones of blush pink. There were sheer layers of black silk, paired with rough tweed skirts.

Melange knits kept this home-made, basic feel to the collection, but the sheer layers, even of linen managed to break the heavier cloths.

CHLOE- 'it's all in the detail....'

There was a much younger mood at Chloe this season.

TREND: the sheer look continues- there's no getting away from it- another take on the classic white shirt. By carefully selecting which parts to make sheer, combined with tulle layers over hems, a fresh classic is born.

Detail was key in this collection- embroidered cut-out blooms covered the chest and shoulders of a clean, elegant shirt dress. Just because a garment's white doesn't have to equal boring.

NYFW REVISITED: Alexander Wang ' A blank canvas....'

From looking at my early highlights from NYFW- Wang used white painted raw canvas in his collections in tandem with his idea of a deconstructed jacket.

Laura

x

TREND: On your marks, get set, go.......

2010-10-02T16:10:00.000-07:00

THE TREND: LUX-SPORT

Dries Van Noten- 'Let there be light....'

TREND: Sheer + Colour- seen at all fashion weeks- Simone Rocha, Gabriele Colangelo.....

I didn't really like the inspiration Van Noten got from chinese ceramics, but the fact that he'd chosen to be influenced by the work of Jef Verheyen (Belgian painter) was a lot more interesting. Verheyen was a master at capturing the effects of light and in the post are some examples of his work. Van Noten has interpreted these in gradual changes in colour and the iridescent sequins.

Example of light captured by painter Jef Verheyen.

The silhouettes I leaned towards were oversized and manish, yet remained feminine in Van Noten's use of delicate, flowing fabrics. Of course there were the heavier tailoring fabrics in the boxy blazers, but these were put over the top of matt silver sequined tops.

Not as inspiring as a usual Dries Van Noten collection (I had to say it) but he's one of my favorites so I had to include it....

Cacharel- 'Euphoria with colour.....'

A designer I hadn't previously heard of but this is probably one of my favorite collection so far at Paris Fashion Week. The colour palette is completely fitting with the 'neon' trend firmly put in place over the last few days (and weeks), but the 'blush' overtones keep it grounded ( and far less daunting to wear!).

The knit pieces were oversized and were interestingly combined with sleeveless shirts. Contrasting colour tubular hems matched the shirt tones which just, well...worked....

I really liked the way that the knitted vest top was painted- different enough to be noticed, but skilled enough to work with the printed shirt and shorts underneath.

Roland Mouret- 'Back to basics....'

There have been complaints that Mouret needed to remember what made him such a success a few years ago and apparently people weren't disappointed with his new SS 2011 collection.

The colour palette was sophisticated but new- shying away from black and introducing colour block panels. Dresses and garments were cut in asymmetrical panels, across the body, giving a sense of vintage glamour.

Pieces reminded me of the glamourous sportswear from the 20's and 30's.

TREND: Turquoise is a key colour for SS 2011- so many designers have used the colour as a highlight in their collections.

Open, oversized playsuits had drop waists.

Take a look at the pre-show fittings of the Roland Mouret show:

Laura

Images from Style.com and Vogue.com, Illustrations by Laura @ SpoonfedStyle

TREND: Stark and silent....protect yourself......

2010-10-02T04:33:00.000-07:00

Ann Demeulemeester- the silent movie.....

'Graphic Abstraction' is what Demeulemeester calls it.....

My favorite aspect of the collection was the 'print-on-print- idea. Abstract geometric prints were asymmetrically but and layered upon by more print, then stitched, then printed again..... The prints informed the panelling and silhouette.

This collection was centered around the idea of protection- obvious from the breastplates and thick, quilted funnel collars. Not really identifiable as a Spring/Summer collection, Demeulemeester's collection was less about trend and more towards concept. Multi-layered clothes cocooned the body but were left open at points, suggesting vulnerability and giving a slightly more feminine edge.

Balenciaga- 'I didn't want clones......'

I'm not going to lie, the first half of the collection didn't do anything for me. Patent dogstooth fabric is never going to excite me! But the second part of the collection became far more interesting. Following the idea of protection, Ghesquire's theme of 'Teddy boy meets punk' gave us more minimalist pieces that, like Demeulemeester, cocooned the body.

A.F. Vandevorst- 'the Crusades of fashion......'

Protection, but taking more inspiration from the past- Vandevorst's collection was consisted of a refined chain mail-like fabric. I preferred the looks that mixed the chain mail with the faded woven fabrics.

Taking the chain mail idea- but in a loose knit construction. It's also another example of the 'pieced together' trend that has been ever-present at all the fashion weeks this season.

Laura

Catwalk images from Vogue.com, Backstage from Dazed Digital

Here come the Japanese......

2010-10-02T04:00:00.000-07:00

Maison Martin Margiela- 'the world is flat....'

You can always look at Margiela's show for a new method of garment construction and this season was no different. Perhaps not as strong as previous season's the idea of 'flatness' was different but just a little too repetitive.

This flat cardigan seemed to have an extra something above some of the pieces on show- I think the fact that the flatness seemed to be slightly deconstructed and that the pockets were usable helped.

I however did like the masculinity of the pieces and especially liked the trousers that stood away from the body creating a new silhouette.

Colour and Texture palette

Issey Miyake- 'the pleated ghosts...'

Construction and fabrics were key to the collection. Finely pleated fabrics were treated with subtle dip-dyes, softening the geometric shapes.

The collection centered around Japanese ghost mythology which gave the collection a much more ethereal quality. Clothes were fragile and delicate. Traditionalism was interpreted in a simple, pure, modern way.

Japanese Mythology- 'The Winter Ghost'

Laura

The rosy glow of love......

2010-10-01T14:52:00.000-07:00

....or this is what Anne Valerie Hash wanted to suggest in her SS 2011 collection.....

The colour palette was subtle 'rosy' tones that were fresh, young but individual.

The macrame knits were very 'of the moment', but the metallic element wouldn't have been my choice to mix with the knit- although it did lift the knit texture from the rest of the fabric.

Classic jersey t-shirts were given a twist with curved gathering. Anne Valerie Hash is another designer who understands that in order to be desirable you have to be clever. Adding a twist to wardrobe basics that can constantly be reinvented is what makes a designer stand out.

The mix of fabrics: georgette, washed leathers and cotton jerseys.

This beautiful sheer peach jersey top with pushed up sleeves under a slouchy grey cotton melange jersey was wearable but was delicate and feminine.

Glimpses of coloured chiffons emerge from the subtle peach and beige tones keep the colours from getting repetitive.

Laura

Images from Vogue.com and backstage by Dansk Magazine

It's all in the invitation.....

2010-10-01T08:10:00.000-07:00

The invitation is the first glimpse into a catwalk show.

What you send out gives everyone a pre-expectation of your show.

This season Margiela sent out a google map flip book to narrow down the location of their show in Paris.

SHOWstudio have a video of it posted on their blog.

http://showstudio.com/blog/47158

Laura

Film is the future?

2010-09-29T11:47:00.000-07:00

Ruth Hogben has created another film for Gareth Pugh- SS 2011.

It encapsulates Pugh's true vision for his collection, unbound by the technicalities of a fashion show. With Hogben, Pugh can create whatever aesthetic he wants. You can see every aspect of the clothes over and over again. Movement is also key. The hypnotic movement of the models ensures that his creations stay in your mind.

Gareth Pugh hasn't put on a catwalk show now for 4 seasons- so do designers really need catwalks anymore?

The new couture code......

2010-09-29T00:44:00.000-07:00

If we're honest we all knew that this time would come. Fashion became saturated with 'minimalism'. In fact SS 2011 was still saturated with it. But someone decided to buck this trend and really look to the future. Raf Simons, Creative Director of Jil Sander since 2005, took this step and because of it the collection has been hailed as the toast of the SS2011 ( although we'll see after Paris!).

Welcome to: MAXIMALISM
(at least that's what it's been labelled as)

Inspired by Yves Saint Laurent couture silhouettes.

NEW COUTURE = Silhouette + Colour (Not beading, corsetry etc).

Everyone at Milan was trying the colour thing, but Simons has perfected it. Combining this with a wearable, yet couture-like desirability is something creative and original.

Laura
x

Watch highlights of the collection below- you can get a sense of the volume at the back of the garments as well:

The Beautiful.......Gabriele Colangelo

2010-09-28T12:44:00.000-07:00

I've covered 'The Bold...', now I've looked at one designer who decided to follow the other main trend of SS 2011- pure and simple.

Milan is known for the fashion week that features the big, established design houses, such as Versace, Gucci, D&G etc, but rarely can you see new designers emerging. Mainly because it is notoriously hard to begin a career in design in Milan.

This collection wouldn't have looked out of place at NYFW.

What particularly attracted me to Colangelo's collection was 2 things: his inspiration- the work of Wolfgang Tillman and his fabrics- thread encased in silk organza that created an innovative new textile, whilst remaining simple and clean.

A detail of the thread between organza textile

His sense of layering was, again, very different compared to most of the Milan shows- consisting of gradual transparencies and subtle colour changes, like 'midnight blue' to 'dove grey'.

I would say there were similarities to Simone Rocha at Fashion East last week.

Laura
x

Look what I found.....

2010-09-28T01:45:00.000-07:00

I found a fantastic website that's called "Into the Fashion". It shows you where a designer's fashion inspiration has come from. A bit like I've been trying to do when I've come across the press releases. I think it's great when you can actually see the theme behind a collection- it takes you beyond the mere aesthetic and teaches you how THEY design. The site also analyses trends as soon as a collection has shown at fashion week. It's IMMEDIATE!

Take a look at some examples from this season's collections:

Helmut Newton from 1985 showing an outfit of Yves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche collection from 1985. Gucci Spring/Summer 2011

Missoni in 1971 by Barry Lategan and a 70s inspired collection by Marc Jacobs for SS 2011.

www.intothefashion.com

Laura

The Bold.....

2010-09-25T12:54:00.000-07:00

I don't think anyone really expected Prada's show at Milan Fashion Week, neither did anyone expect the blinding colours that were present in most of the collections. Some efforts were tasteful and some were definitely not!

PRADA: 'Banana's at Dawn...'

For me the styling of Prada's SS 2011 was a little much- I know the sunglasses were meant to stur up images of 1920's bohemian starlets, but they looked a bit Tim Burton's Willy Wonka for me.

The inspiration, like many designers, were 2 completely opposite concepts: A Jazz-age Josephine Baker and 17th Century cherubs. It was a strange combination, but I really liked some of the slightly simpler pieces.

The look above was definitely the best colour-led look- the turquoise was striking and the top silhouette was clean and fresh.

I actually preffered the striped pieces, with small bursts of colour- the classic-cut silhouettes needed simplicity in the designs and some of the bold prints were just a little much. The collection was strong and bold for such an established brand like Prada.

ETRO: City vs. Tribal

Etro normally has everything in abundance: silhouette, print, colour and SS 2011 was no exception. Again, much like Prada there were some looks I much preferred to others. The look in the illustration above was an edgy playsuit where the top of the trousers was a matt blue into black legs- just a simple, yet creative touch.

The loose, wide-legged silk playsuit was stunning- the colour was bold, but not frightening.

There seem to be a lot of these long, over-sized silhouettes in Milan this week. Think a very plain, big silhouette creating a blank canvas for a bold, statement print for SS 2011.

VERSACE: 'Not forgetting the fringe...'

First Mark Fast, now Versace- there was more than just a similarity between the finale piece of both collections.

This look was a compromise between the nude trend and the bold trend. The strong colours were inspired by Greece- the white, in contrast, the colour of villas on the Greek islands.

The finale look....

Some other looks that stood out:

Fendi

Gucci: Inspired by the colours of Guy Bourdin for the late 1970's (I love Bourdin's work- the colours are so striking and continue to be modern)

Laura
x

Illustrations by Laura @ SpoonfedStyle

LFW The End.....

2010-09-25T01:43:00.001-07:00

Just a quick one.....

2010-09-25T01:36:00.000-07:00

Before I start on Milan, there was just one designer that I wanted to show you. A bit like Nicole Miller, sometimes it's the people at the exhibitions that you need to keep an eye on.

A bit more commercial, but I think stunningly elegant, I wanted to just highlight Angela Cassidy's work. I think it was also the look book that attracted me to her collection.

Graduating from Glasgow School of Art and Ma at RCA, she is already working with Browns.

Her focus is very high quality knitwear, but something that is accessible and timeless.

Sheer cottons, mesh knits, bold stripes to subtle graphics. I like the way she has then paired her knitwear with boxy cropped sweaters and high waist, pleated bottoms.

Just a good collection.....

Here's some of her work from AW 2010:

Inspiration: Victor Pasmore's artwork

www.angelacassidydesign.com

Laura

All photographs from Angela Cassidy's look book, photographed by Laurence Ellis

A Modern Romance......

2010-09-23T13:37:00.000-07:00

'Flora's Illuminate'

Hermione de Paula

Apart from probably the worst lighting in the world to take any half decent photograph, the Hermione de Paula show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was full of promise.

I liked the faded floral dress where the solidity was broken up by sheer black chiffon panels. This was the print that was put on the invitation- giving you a bit of a taster as what we had to look forward to.

I liked the juxtaposition of the delicate floral printed with the slashes- giving the pieces a feminine but harder edge.

This is probably my favorite look- very Helmut Lang in aesthetic.

Laura

All Photographs by Laura @ SpoonfedStyle

Live Catwalk Illustration by KellyAnna- FashionScoutBlog