Today I’m going to teach you how to identify and potentially avoid equipment failures, like the picture of a collapsed teeter below, so that you can keep your dogs happy and safe on agility equipment for dogs.

If you’d like to ensure your dog’s safety on agility equipment everywhere, but don’t know what to look for, I’ve got you covered.

By the end of this post, you’ll have three powerful equipment checks that can be your go-to for your dog’s safety on the equipment.

As a dog agility judge, I’ve used this method on thousands of agility courses and competition training classes and on my own equipment at home.

Now It’s your turn.

The method I’m going to teach you is applicable to all agility equipment. The place where I’ve caught major and unexpected equipment failures before they happened are the contacts. By contacts, I mean the a-frame teeter and dog walk.

Lisa’s 2-Part Method to Check Agility Equipment for Dogs

When I visually inspect the dog agility equipment, I use a two-part method that covers what I call:

• The Stabilization and
• The Connection areas

These are the two areas that are most prone to either breakdown or human error.

The stabilization area is the support or the base of the obstacle and the connection area is where the board meets the base.

To see pictures so you’ll know exactly what I’m talking, please watch my YouTube video.

Let’s jump right on into the two-part method and what to look for.

When It Comes to the A-Frame

(Note: Watch the YouTube video on Agility Equipment for Dogs for visuals)

I start with the stabilization area and work my way up to the connection area at the top.

In the stabilization area, you’re going to want to visually inspect the support chains and the clip devices for these three things.

• First, support chains and clips are free from corrosion.
• Next, that the links and clips are fully closed and that they haven’t been stretched, do the wear and tear metal fatigue and age.
• Lastly, you want to be sure that all the links are resting and to be sure that there are no kinks in the chain or clips that could break loose and allow the obstacle to shift position when your dog is on it.

Moving up to the connection area, you’re going to want to check two things:

• the hinge and
• the hinge pin

I’ll talk more about the hinge pin later.

When visually inspecting the hinge, you’re going to want to make sure that it’s free of corrosion and grit.

Second, be sure the hinge is securely attached to the a-frame board.

WARNING!

Don’t assume the hinge is properly connected!

I want to caution you that just because the a-frame is up, does NOT mean everything must be fine.

Here’s why.

This is a picture of my own a-frame where the hinge is no longer attached to the board.

When the a-frame was up, the problem was not immediately visible. It wasn’t until we did an inspection, just like the one I’m sharing with you now, that we found a problem.

The Teeter

Just like the a-frame, you’ll work the teeter from the stabilization area up to that connection area.

In the stabilization area, you’ll perform the same checks on the chain and links.

When it comes to the connection area, just like the other contact agility equipment for dogs, you’ll want to check two things:

• The rod and
• The rod connection

First, you’ll want to ensure that the rod, which connects the board to the base is installed correctly.

As an example. On my teeter design (go to the YouTube video for visual) the rod goes through one side of the base, then through the board and finally out through the other side of the base.

Second, you’ll want to be sure that the rod is secure so that the vibration or impact of your dog on the equipment doesn’t allow that rod to shimmy out of place.

My teeter uses a threaded rod with the wing nut at the end which secures the rod in place. Before each use, I visually check that the wingnut is securely fastened.

The Dog Walk in Dog Agility

Just like the other contact obstacles. I start from the bottom with the stabilization and work my way up to that connection point. I then review the obstacle for the same types of issues as mentioned previously.

This is a great time to mention that hinge pins that I talked about earlier and here’s why.

When it comes time to put contact equipment together, as an agility judge, missing hinge pins are the number one thing that I see missing.

That’s because they’re small and they’re so dang easy to lose!

Second, I just lost one last week on my dog walk!

These things are so tiny, which is why I have a stash of them. Oh, and these would make such great stocking stuffers!

Using my dog walk, let me explain why this hinge is so important (go to the YouTube video for visual).

Just like the rod on the other pieces of contact equipment, this style rod connects the dog walk board to the base. Unlike my teeter which has a threaded rod, my dog walk uses a hinge pin to hold it in place.

This 50-cent part is so important to your dog safety!

Your Thoughts?

So, I’d like to know and comment below, what you do to look out for your dog’s safety when it comes to the agility equipment for dogs.

In Summary

Looking over each piece of contact equipment shouldn’t take more than 10 seconds per piece of equipment.

If you see something that makes you think, there’s probably something that should be addressed.

If you’re at class let your trainer know.

If you’re at a trial either let the ring crew know or the Judge.

If it’s your own piece of equipment, definitely investigate that further.

Now you know exactly what safety items to look for on the agility contact equipment.

What About the Jumps?

But what about when you want to be sure that every style of agility jump is set correctly for your dog?

I’ve written a two-page guide on how to set each unique agility jump to keep your safety game spot on from Start to Finish Line.

Get instant access to my FREE Spot On Agility RESOURCE CENTER and find even more videos, checklists, PDF downloads and more!

Here’s the link.

If you liked this blog post, be sure to let me know by leaving a comment below.

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I’m also going to talk to you today about dog agility start line training and how I create a confident and enjoyable start line at dog agility competitions for both me and my dog.

At my very first dog agility trial, my dog got up and began the course before I was ready.

For the entire run, I was trying to steer and control from behind and it was not a fun experience.

Worse yet, that created a behavior pattern that my dog, from that moment on, thought it was okay to not do stays at the start line. Needless to say, it took me years to try to undo that behavior.

Are You Newer to Dog Agility

If you’re just beginning to train your dog in agility, I want you to 100% commit to training a start line stay because it is just as important as training the agility obstacles. See the start line as the very first obstacle that is required before you even begin your agility course.

If you’re still not convinced that training a great start line is important, I have an analogy for you.

When your dog comes off the start line before you’re ready, it is very much like going to a baseball game.

You’ve gone to get your hot dog and your soda. You’re walking back to your seat, and there’s a fly ball coming toward you!

You have a decision to make.

Do you drop the hotdog? Do you drop the soda? Do you drop both of them to catch the fly ball or do you chose to hang on to your food and let the ball hit you?

That’s how it feels when your dog self-releases at the start line.

It’s not a fun decision to make when in the moment you’re under pressure and stress.

What if your current start line isn’t so great

For those of you that may not have a great start line stay.

It’s not hopeless and you can definitely change this.

The first step is you’re going to need to commit to no longer managing the current start line that you have.

Managing is when a handler alters their behavior and attempts to:

• make the dog stay
• prolong the dogs inevitable self-release; or
• creates an alternate start line behavior in order to avoid a stay.

When it came to my dog and her lack of a start line, I tried to manage it versus just training the stay at the start line.

Now granted, at that moment, I didn’t realize that I was managing and reacting.

Why managing the start line doesn’t work.

I really thought that I was doing the right things. As it turned out, I wasn’t focusing on what was in it for my dog.

The truth of the matter is my dog really thought that she was doing the right thing. She understood that my goal was to do agility and to get out on course.

Well, she was just fast-tracking that for me. Worse yet, I was letting her.

My desire to focus on the agility, obstacles, the fun stuff, taught my dog to focus on the agility obstacles.

Here’s the good news. My dog and I both loved agility and we both loved to do the obstacles.

Here’s the bad news. I had failed to create the same desire for the stay at the start line.

Then I had a light bulb moment.

“What if I created value for the start line?”

Fast forward to today and that’s what I do. I create a ton of value for a stay at the start line. That means there are times that I’m willing to give up doing the actual obstacles. Instead, I focus on rewarding my dog so heavily on the start line that she thinks the stay is absolutely amazing.

To see a video on what I do, CLICK HERE to go to my YouTube Channel.

Next, a stay would not be complete without a clear and concise release word. I train my dogs to remain in position until I give the release word.

To see how I do the verbal release, CLICK HERE to go to my YouTube Channel.

Does this seem like an easy fix?

Well, I’m sure it does.

The reason it seems easy is that I’m focusing on two specific behaviors, the sit, and the release.

However, what I’m really doing is changing the dog’s perception. I’m focusing a spotlight on how important it is and how worthwhile it is for my dog to remain in place at the start line.

It does take time and consistency but my dogs happily remain at the start line until released.

I make it a game on how I want my dog to stay at the start line.

My dogs learn to get comfortable and to relax all the way through until I give that release word.

How Often Do You Train

I reinforce the desired behavior weekly and at the warm-up jump before every run.

I do spend a lot of quality time training this and my dogs love it! Absolutely love it.

They know that these criteria are the first important step before we can go and do the obstacles on the course.

In Summary

Having the confidence and knowing that my dog is going to stay until I give the release word really makes my start lines so much easier and enjoyable for both me and my dog.

It’s time for action! Be sure to grab your instant access to my FREE Spot On Agility RESOURCE CENTER (click that link NOW!) and find even more videos, checklists, PDF downloads and more!

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I did it again! I forgot what to bring to an agility trial.

Some weekends I feel like I live on the road as I either head out to a local agility trial or travel to another state that requires an overnight stay in an entirely different climate.

There’s nothing worse than reaching my destination to realize I’ve forgotten something. Once it was socks. Another time my phone charger. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to borrow gloves or sunscreen.

Thank goodness for the kindness of agility people!

Recently I made good use of my travels and created a checklist that covers the items I often need at an agility trial. I’d like to share that with you for FREE!

So whether you’re a weekend agility warrior like me or just starting out in this fun sport, my checklist on What You Should Bring to a Dog Agility Trial is sure to help save time and guide you to bring those necessary items.

To grab your copy, sign-in to my FREE Spot On Agility RESOURCE CENTER (click that link NOW!). Plus, you’ll find even more videos, checklists, PDF downloads and more!

Enjoy!

Lisa Selthofer

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AKC’s new FEO (For Exhibition Only) and Fix & Go pilot program area really exciting changes! Here’s what the AKC just released:

August 2019 Board Meeting

-For Exhibition Only Runs & The Fix and Go On Option

Following a motion by Mr. Sweetwood, seconded by Mr. Hamblin, the Board VOTED (unanimously) to approve a recommendation to (1) allow dogs to run For Exhibition Only in the agility FAST and Time2Beat classes at the option of the host club, and (2) allow handlers, when their dogs perform an obstacle incorrectly, to “Fix and Go On” (immediately reattempt the obstacle) one time per course. “Fix and Go On” will be allowed at all agility trials. No dog will receive a qualifying score if they are running For Exhibition Only or use the Fix and Go On option. These changes will be done on a one-year pilot basis in order to give staff time to evaluate their impact.
These changes are effective January 1, 2020.

For Exhibition Only –
Chapter 1, Section 21. New last paragraph.
For Exhibition Only. (This is a pilot program) At the option of the club, a handler may choose to change their FAST or Time2Beat entry into a For Exhibition Only (FEO) run. The handler must notify the scribe and the judge as they enter the ring prior to the start of the run that they are doing an FEO run. The scribe sheet shall be marked “FEO”, no time “NT”, and “E” for an excused, non-qualifying run. Allowing FEO runs is at the option of the club. It must be stated in the premium and any pre-trial publications.

Chapter 5. 
(New) Section 7. For Exhibition Only. (This is a pilot program)

For Exhibition Only (FEO) runs are allowed in FAST and Time2Beat classes at the option of the club. It must be stated in the premium and any pre-trial publications. If a team is running FEO, the handler may not use more than the standard course time for the chosen class. Time will be started by the Timer as soon as the handler starts their lead out. If the handler has not told the scribe and the judge prior to the start of the run that it is an FEO run, the judge will judge the run as a scored run and all regulations are in effect. In this case, the judge will excuse the team for training in the ring as described in Chapter 4, Section 6.

When running FEO, the handler may use a toy to reward the dog. At no time may the toy leave the handler’s possession or be thrown, or they will be excused from the ring. No food, no toys that make noise and no balls that can roll away may be used. The handler may train any piece of equipment as many times as they would like. Handlers may touch equipment during the FEO run, which includes resetting the bars.

The judge shall not judge the dog’s run but will watch the run to ensure that the handler is not using harsh commands or corrections and that the run is being done safely. The judge will immediately whistle to excuse the team from the ring for any of these infractions. During FEO
runs, dogs may be excused or disqualified for menacing or aggressive behavior as in Chapter 1, Section 23. The judge and ring crew must remain in the ring during an FEO run.

Fix and Go On –
Chapter 5. 
(New) Section 8. Fix and Go On. (This is a pilot program)

At any time during a run the hander may immediately fix a single obstacle one time. The action shall be judged as a Mandatory Elimination, which shall be marked as an “F” on the scribe sheet, resulting in a non-qualifying score (NQ).

The handler may go back up to two obstacles prior to the fix. If a jump bar (bar jump or single bar jump) is knocked, the handler may reset it, but the reset is limited to one jump bar. The dog may not be verbally or physically corrected for the error. Weave poles may be immediately re-attempted three times, but if the dog is brought back one or two obstacles prior to the weave poles, it will be considered the one time Fix and Go On attempt. Once handlers have used the one-time Fix and Go On option, they must immediately finish the course or exit the ring.

The judge shall not judge the dog’s run after the fix but will continue to watch the run to ensure that the handler is going on to complete the course correctly, is not using harsh commands or corrections and that the run is being done safely. The judge will immediately whistle to excuse the team from the ring for any of these infractions.

Note: Fix & Go On will be allowed in all classes at all trials. Only FEO is opt-in for the clubs.

This article is an update to my blog on how AKC is moving closer to the Fix and Finish Concept.

Link to the announcement on Facebook

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I’ve noticed that the a-frame height in dog agility has changed considerably over the last decade. I’ve also noticed that opinions on the height vary greatly.

I’m going to share an example.

AKC 12″ A-Frame Height

Last year I shared a link so that you could make recommendations to the AKC Advisory Committee. This was your chance to share what agility rules you’d like to see modified, including changes to the A-frame.

It’s my understanding that the committee received 10 condensed pages of requests asking them to lower the A-frame height for the 12″ dogs.

That’s a lot of requests!

The requests were in favor of lowering the height from 5’6″ to 5′. Therefore, this would make the entire small dog group consistent with an A-frame of 5′.

What Happened Next…

Next, I receive an email update from the AKC sharing they had forwarded the proposed height change to the Board of Directors. It seemed small dogs would soon have a safer, more appropriate height!

Yeah, not so fast.

As a result of the announcement, other exhibitors from the 12″ class began writing to share they were NOT happy about the proposed A-frame height change.

I didn’t expect that reaction. Of course, I also don’t have a dog running in the 12″ class.

From what I have read, their concern has two parts.

First, the consistency in the 12″ jump height. Currently, International agility organizations remain at around the 5’6″ A-frame height.

Second, the training of running A-frame contacts. Specifically, those who trained using stride regulators are concerned the change in height will negatively impact their training.

As a result of the conflicting A-frame height preferences, the AKC has pulled the recommended change for further review.

What Do You Think?

Take our survey and share which height YOU think the 12″ height class should have.

This survey is closed.

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