Dad and I

One of the reasons I’m in Canada for the summer is my Dad (I return to Mexico in August). He has dementia. His dementia is not severe but his memory slips every day, and most days feel like a never ending game of charades. Some days all is good, and other days we all want to kill each other. It’s the reality of living with someone who suffers from dementia, and sometimes the art of patience is elusive.

This summer is meant to be one filled with memories. I plan to drive my Dad up to Sudbury at some point to see my Uncle Ross, and taking him for lunch to places he adored years ago. It’s not much, I admit, but it makes him happy. Plus the trips are fairly short, which is good because being in a car for long periods of time can be a tad stressful, on everyone!

This week is my parent’s 40th wedding anniversary, and true to form my Mom thought it would be nice to go to Washington DC for stay in the same hotel. Unfortunately she doesn’t like to drive that far, and my Dad can’t drive outside of town, let alone across the border, which means I need to go with them as their personal chauffeur – not that I mind, I do love last minute road trips!

I’m pretty sure most couples do not want their daughter tagging along for a 40th anniversary trip, but my parents do! Well, if they want to go away they do.

As a seasoned solo traveller switching gears to family travel is proving to be interesting. Dad is going to be 79 this year and aside from his dementia he has a heart condition, cataracts, wears compression socks, cannot eat salt, and has hearing aids in both ears (which he is still getting use to). In other words the poor man has a few challenges in life, which means I need to actually plan the trip as Dad needs breaks every few hours to walk around, eat, refresh.

It also means that I need to sit back and let his run through what’s happening , trying to guess what story he is trying to tell me about his last trip to Washington DC 20+ years ago. Have I mentioned he’s excited about the trip? Cause he is. Within a few hours of deciding to go (which shocked both my Mom and I) he was upstairs trying on clothes, then coming downstairs to show off his travel wardrobe which consisted of a dress shirt, knee-high white socks, and shoes. No pants. Thankfully that isn’t a ‘thing’ outside the house!

At the moment the plan is simple (mostly because I need to do more planning), we leave at 5am Thursday morning and once we cross the Fort Erie/Buffalo a few hours later we’ll need to find a diner to breakfast. After that I’ll need to figure out where else to stop along the way. It’s an 8 hour drive according to Google, but I’m planning on it taking at least 12 hours.

I know I usually don’t write about trips like this, but truth be told I’m really looking forward to this one. I want to spend time with Dad before he starts to forget who I am, and I want my Mom to have a wonderful anniversary, do something she loves, with the man she loves. I want my Dad to feel like he’s on a vacation, which is has wanted for awhile now. I don’t know what my Dad will be like in a year, and this could be the last trip we take together, so I’m dropping everything and trying to make this a great trip.

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• El Patio 77, An Eco-Friendly B&B in Mexico City
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When my friend Sylvie suggested I stay with El Patio 77 in Mexico City and mentioned that it was an eco-friendly Bed & Breakfast, I was definitely intrigued. Eco-friendly? In Mexico City? Is that even a thing there?! Mexico City is one of the largest traffic-ridden cities in the world.

An eco-friendly B&B? Oh the sweet irony. Yes, I need to check it out and see it for myself. After all, if Mexico City can make efforts to go green, then there must be leprechauns and post of gold at the end of the rainbow, right? I’m crossing my fingers!

After spending a few nights in the Santa Fe area of Mexico City I was really looking forward to being closer to the city center, plus the bed and breakfast was only a few blocks from the subway, so getting around the city was going to be cheaper and easier!

El Patio 77 is what I like to call retro chic.

Lobby at El Patio 77

I love the vintage green sofas, the quirky ceramic pineapple, the reused wood coffee table, and the red 77 sign on the floor which lit up at night.

Seating area in the lobby of El Patio 77

I know it sounds silly, but eclectic vintage decor makes me giddy. I have always been a sucker for antiques, and history, and colour. So when all three of those things mix together, well, I am pretty freaking happy.

Similar to the Hotel Catedral in Puerto Vallarta and Casa Pedro Loza in Guadalajara, each of the rooms at El Patio 77 were decorated differently. My room was Veracruz, a small cream coloured room with a wooden four poster bed, a tall medium wood dresser with mint green drawers,a small table with an old metal folding chair sat in a corner, and a flower box with a single red flower resting on one of my windows.

Veracruz Room

As part of their eco-friendly initiative guests are asked only use biodegradable products while staying with El Patio 77. And as many travellers do not carry biodegradable products, the bed and breakfast has provided them.

Staying with El Patio 77 was like staying in a more civilized and upscale hostel. All the rooms were private and beautifully decorated, the breakfast room was filled with sunshine and yummy food every morning, and the guests were late twenties to earlier forties.

When I wasn’t in my room, or sitting in the lobby working on my laptop, I was out exploring Mexico City and the neighbourhood around the bed and breakfast. My time with El Patio 77 was short and utterly delightful. I loved having a space that felt cozy and inspiring, and the owners (a guy from Mexico city, and a guy from France) were helpful and interesting.

El Patio 77 is one of those places I recommend to everyone who visits Mexico City. Not because I was an invited guest (I’ve stayed with many brands over the years), but because I know that everyone will have the same wonderful experience.

Are YOU travelling to Mexico City soon?

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In Mexico my love for interesting graffiti and street art was not disappointed.

Guadalajara

Finding interesting graffiti and street art in Guadalajara was difficult as tagging/vandalism is rampant in the city. In some neighbourhoods every single building and house has tagged.

Morelia

Morelia was one of my favourite cities in Mexico. My time in the city was extremely short (two days. I know, it’s a crime) and I spent most of my time in Centro Historico (historical center), so when I found street art (some with a message) I was thrilled!

Mexico City

I’m sure there is a ton of street art in Mexico City, I just wasn’t in those areas on this visit. There was a lot of street advertising in the city, and unfortunately I was unable to photograph the best ones as I was usually in a moving vehicle, in crazy traffic, when I saw them.

Oaxaca

I LOVED the street art in Oaxaca, and I must admit, I didn’t expect to find as many interesting pieces as I did. There really needs to be a street art tour in the city.

What is your favourite city for street art?

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Say what you will, all-inclusive resorts are not all bad (and before you hang me for treason, here me out!), in fact they can be extremely relaxing. After spending a month travelling through interior Mexico by bus, I was tired. Like really, really tired. I was moving locations every two days, exploring as much as I could, and trying to keep up with blogging and writing assignments. So, when I arrived in Playa del Carmen and had a chance to stay with an all-inclusive resort on Isla Mujeres for two nights, I jumped!

Think about it. A small resort on a small island. A big king-sized bed all to myself. The ocean. Free wifi and cocktails, and food.

I checked into Isla Mujeres Palace Resort around lunch time, and half listened to the hotel introduction. I was hot and tired, and my brain was already shutting down and getting ready for two days of much needed relaxation.

My room was large, white, and made my swoon. Aside from a king-sized bed and a view of the pool, I also had a large two person jacuzzi tub, a FREE mini bar (with normal sized bottles), wine, fruit, brute, and a CHI hair straightener. Okay, so I normally wouldn’t be excited about a hair straightener, but mine had broken the day before, and for some reason the Atlantic does some seriously crazy stuff to my naturally curly hair. SO, when I saw the hair straightener I ALMOST kissed the man showing me around my room. Yay! Good hair for a couple days!!

It really does not take a lot to make me happy.

Pool view at Isla Mujeres Palace Resort

As much as I wanted to jump in the bed and take a long luxurious nap, I resisted. Instead of napping I lounged in the big shower, letting the cold water cool me off, then getting into some comfy clothes, grabbing my notebook, and heading down to the beach.

I admit, I felt a twinge of guilt sitting on the beach and staring at the waves crashing against the shore. I knew I should be working. I’m so behind. Yet, my stay with Isla Mujeres Palace Resort was suppose to be my vacation. I sipped on cocktails, and ate pizza that was cooked in a wood fire oven – perks of staying at an all-inclusive resort. And tried (and failed) to avoid social media.

My days at the resort were fairly lazy. Sun. Beach. Cocktails. Pizza (Man, the food was good). Naps.

In the evening I dropped my things off in my room, grabbed my camera, and walked down the dock and sat there to wait for the sunset.

Sunset on Isla Mujeres

Sunset dinner on the beach

In the evening the resort transformed from luxurious beach getaway, to quiet romantic interludes. Sure, it can be a tad awkward being  a solo traveller sitting at a table, surrounded by couples, but it is what it is. I mean what other choice did I have? Eat in my room? I don’t think so!! Besides, if you want to make up stories and pretend to be somebody completely different with every person you meet, you don’t need to worry about your partner sticking with all of your lies!

Not that I would ever do that. That would be wrong. And so very redneck. Nope. I wouldn’t do that.

When is it a GOOD idea to stay with an all-inclusive resort?

I know there are a few of you who think I have sold out, or I’m no longer a hardcore traveller, and that’s okay. The fact is all-inclusive resorts do have their benefits. It’s a great way to completely unwind and forget about life. At an all-inclusive resort you don’t have to worry about where you’re going to eat, or which beach to try out. It’s a place where you can be utterly lazy and not feel guilty – or starve. In other words, when you’re in the midst of travel fatigue, a couple nights at an all-inclusive resort can be absolutely refreshing.

I loved my two days with Isla Mujeres Palace Resorts, and I cannot thank them enough for inviting me. It was (as I’ve already stated above) a much needed rest after spending a month travelling through interior Mexico. While I enjoy the interior more, a few days in tourist Mexico can be a lot of fun – as long as it’s only a couple days (I’m speaking for myself here).

Getting to Isla Mujeres Palace Resorts

Getting to Isla Mujeres is pretty straightforward. I arrived in Cancun by bus, then took a taxi to the ferry terminal for 150 pesos. The ferry ride cost 140 pesos for a round trip ticket, and took about 20 minutes. Once I was on Isla Mujeres, the taxi ride to the resort cost 54 pesos.

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Mexico is… Awesome. It’s one of those destinations that should be jam-packed full of tourists, but isn’t because traditional media is a bunch of one-sided fear-mongering asshats.

Yes, ASSHATS!

But wait. If Mexico is not jam-packed with tourists (outside of Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Cozumel, and Puerto Vallarta) than that means Mexico has some serious off-the-beaten-path potential, right?!?! RIGHT!

While off-the-beaten-path is like the holy grail fro travellers, it doesn’t mean you should skip experiences that are popular. Those experiences are popular for a reason. They’re awesome! So, if you’re going to travel to Mexico you need to switch things up and get a full-on feel for the country. So, what should you do? Well, let me give ya a few suggestions (in no particular order):

1. Take the train journey through Copper Canyon from Chihuahua to Los Mochis

2. Watch a Lucha Libre match at Arena Mexico in Mexico City.

3. Go swimming or cave diving in a cenote in the Yucatan.

4. Eat street tacos in Puerto Vallarta.

5. Visit the ruins of Chichen Itza, Tulum, Palenque, Teotihuacan, and Monte Albán.

6. SUP (Stand Up Paddle boarding) in Sayulita.

7. Humpback Whale watching in Banderas Bay during the winter months.

8. Snorkelling in Cozumel.

9. Celebrate Semana Santa (Easter Week) in Taxco.

10. Celebrate Cino de Mayo in Puebla.

11. Travel interior Mexico by Bus.

12. Take a hidden alley tour in Puerto Vallarta.

13. Enjoy Mexican hot chocolate and churros at El Moro in Mexico City.

14. Go paragliding in Valle de Bravo.

15. Go white water rafting in the Santo Domingo or Jatate rivers.

16. Travel through Oaxaca in a mototaxi (Tuk tuk).

17. Snorkel with Whale Sharks near Isla Holbox.

18. Shop at the massive street market in Tonalá, a suburb of Guadalajara.

19. Wander through the quiet cobbled streets of San Sebastian del Oeste

20. Experience Day of the Dead (El Dias de Muertos) in Mixquic, a small town on the edge of Mexico City.

21. Take a boat tour through Sumidero Canyon in Chiapas State.

22. Take a tamale cooking class in Oaxaca.

23. Visit a tequila factory.

24. Go hiking in Guanajuato.

25. Go on a Salsa dancing retreat in Oaxaca.

26. Take Spanish classes in San Cristobal de Cases.

27. Visit Cola de Caballo waterfall in Monterrey.

28. Soak in the natural hot springs at Termas de San Joaquín near Monterrey.

29. Participate in a Hridaya Silent Yoga Retreat in Mazunte.

30. Sit on a beach or mountain top and watch the sunset.

31. Rent a classic VW Beetle for a weekend road trip through Chiapas.

32. Enjoy a candlelit dinner on the beach – even if it’s a dinner for one!

33. Check out the hidden beaches at Las Marietas Islands.

34. Convince a local fisherman to take you out for a night time fishing run.

35. Try Mezcal.

36. Explore the Centro Historico in Morelia.

37. Attend Carnaval in Guaymas which takes place the five days before Lent.

38. Visit the lakeside village of Ajijic.

39. Experience the vibrance of the village of Coatepec, known for growing coffee, banana, mango, and more!

40. Hike all or part of Camino Real de Tierra Adentro which stretches from Mexico City to Texas.

41. Learn to surf in Salina Cruz.

42. Explore Tzabnah cave located southeast of Merida.

43. Cage dive with Great White Sharks off Isla Guadalupe.

44. Summit El Pico de Orizaba, the highest mountain in Mexico.

45. Participate in a WWOOF farming experience.

46. Go to the zocalo in Mexico City for Mexico’s Independence Day celebrations.

47. Visit the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve.

48. Kayak the Sea of Cortez.

49. Explore the canals and floating gardens of Xochimilco

50. Visit the Museum of Anthropology  & Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo Museum) in Mexico City.

Is there something you would add to this list? Leave it in the comments!

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Wrong.

So very, very. Very wrong.

I hate to say it (well, not really), but Cinco de Mayo is not an actual Mexican holiday. It’s a non-Mexican holiday. In fact the ONLY places in Mexico that will celebrate Cinco de Mayo are tourist hotspots (because tourist demand that the holiday be celebrated) and the state of Puebla.

A little history…

In the state of Puebla Cinco de Mayo symbolizes the Mexican victory over the French on May 5, 1862, and contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo is NOT the celebration of Mexico’s independence (that holiday is celebrated every September 16th). And one of the reasons why American’s celebrate the holiday is because they believe that when the Mexicans beat the French it prevented the French from supplying the rebels, and therefore the Americans were able to build a strong army. Or something like that.

So yeah, Cinco de Mayo is NOT a huge Mexican holiday, unless you’re in the state of Puebla. Does that mean you shouldn’t celebrate it? Nah, not really. You celebrate Halloween, right? That’s not a real holiday. In fact most holidays have nothing to do with the actual events of the day on which they are celebrated.

That being said I’m not against a day where the focus is on Mexican food and drinks; unless your version of Mexican food is Taco Bell. If it is, we cannot be friends. Sorry.

Go BIG, or Go Home

As you may have guessed, I love Mexico, like a lot. So I feel as though it’s my duty to guide y’all on how to celebrate Cinco de Mayo – mostly because my event planning self has been dormant for SO LONG that it’s actually silencing my other personalities so it can be free (don’t worry, I’m sure my travel personality will eventually break free and rule the rest of my personalities in a tyrannical manner in no time).

Pinterest is an amazing resource when it comes to wasting time, looking for recipes, or dreaming of decorating that fieldstone farmhouse I’ve always wanted.

Drinks

Martha Stewart’s Horchata recipe

In Mexico popular flavours are tequila and lime, so if you have drinks that involve one, or all, of those flavours, you’re set. But what if you’re not a drinker? Thankfully Mexico has these drinks called Auga Fresca which are DIVINE and would make a great addition to ANY Cinco de Mayo party.

Horchata is a rice milk with cinnamon, and it is absolutely delicious, and I recently found a recipe on Martha Stewart. That being said, Martha gives a short cut in her recipe which saves time, but takes away from the flavour of authentic Horchata. If you have the time, soak your rice over night and grind it.

Another very popular aqua fresca drink is Jamaica (Hibiscus juice). It’s extremely refreshing and needs to be consumed either hot like a tea, or ice cold – lukewarm is kind of blah. My friend Christine recently posted a recipe for Jamaica (hah-my-kah) on her website, Almost Fearless. Mmmm… so yummy.

Salty Chihuahua

Tequila

Tequila is THE national drink of Mexico, and as such there are several variations. So if you’re planning to serve cocktails for Cinco de Mayo, I suggest they involve tequila. Like a lot of tequila! Just make sure you buy a good quality tequila, like Patrón or Don Quito, which are smooth and won’t give you a crazy hangover the next day.

The first yummy cocktail I came across on my Pinterest search today was the Salty Chihuahua from Fitness, which has ingredients like tequila (obviously), grapefruit juice, and Cointreau.

Of course, one cannot forget about Mexican margaritas, which is probably the second most popular drink in Mexico. Now, you can go simple and do the whole tequila and margarita mix thing, and dress it up with lime rinds (or slices) that have been frozen in ice cubes, or you can get fancy and do something like Creamy Margarita popsicles.  Okay, so it’s practically a dessert, but it is still a margarita of sorts!

Food

The drinks are fairly easy, it’s the food that gets tricky! Here’s a hint, if you’re looking at doing more traditional Mexican food, DO NOT buy Old El Paso products, or crunchy taco shells. Please, just avert your eyes and keep walking down the aisle. Please!

Tostadas are one of my favourite dishes, and they are super easy to make (and it’s fairly easy to impress people). The base is usually a crunchy corn tostada (which you can buy at the grocery store), but you can also cut out flour tortilla rounds and bake them until crispy. The first layer on a tostada is normally refried beans which you can either buy, or make. After that it’s up to you. Cochinita Pibil (slow cooked pulled pork), grilled chicken, chorizo, steak, or shrimp, some homemade Pico de Gallo and Guacamole, and you’re set!

Tacos are another option. Basically as long as there is a flour or corn tortilla wrapped around it, it’s a taco. Seriously. If you’re looking for fusion type tacos, then try Tequila-Lime Mahimahi, or perhaps Miso-Maple Sweet Potato Tacos. Or you can check out some of the taco recipes I’ve pinned on my taco board. Nom nom nom.

Ceviche is another favourite, and quite popular in the coastal areas of Mexico. While some serve a canned tuna like ceviche, the best is made with fresh fish like Mahimahi, or shrimp. Ceviche is super easy to make (you ‘cook’ the fish/shrimp by soaking it in fresh lime juice), and delicious with homemade pico de gallo.

Sopa de Tortilla (Tortilla soup) is another classic Mexican dish, and one that will have everyone swooning. Seriously. There are a few varieties. I’ve had traditional Sopa de Tortilla at restaurants  and at Christine’s house, but there are some yummy varieties that involve shrimp. Mmmm… Shrimp Tortilla Soup.

Tamales are a popular dish in Mexico as they are cheap and filling (think of them as the Mexican version of meatloaf, but far more versatile and delicious). As with most Mexican dishes tamales are not difficult to make, just a little time consuming to prepare if you’re making a large batch. The trick to good tamales (in my opinion) is the flavour of the filling, which is why I’m recommending this Pork Tamale recipe by Green Eggs & Spam.

Decor

Please, I’m begging you, leave sombreros OFF your decoration list. Mexicans haven’t worn sombreros in decades, and the only places you’ll find them in Mexico is in tourist shops. So, instead of tacky stereotypical Mexican decorations, put your thinking caps on, or do what I’ve done and go to Pinterest! Here are some fun ideas I found.

I LOVE this bouquet by Heavenly Blooms. Sure, it’s for a Mexican themed wedding, but you can use the same idea of mixing coloured roses with cacti for your Cinco de Mayo party. Rusty beauty. Love it. I also love the brown paper ‘Dulce’ bags on Heavenly Blooms. Dulce shops (candy stores) are all over Mexico, and if you can find Mexican candy, this is a great party favor for your guests.

• Use salt-rimmed (coarse sea salt) whiskey glasses for individual servings of guacamole, or forgo the salt and use the glasses to serve ceviche, or pico de gallo.
• Use deep margarita glasses to serve sopa de tortilla.
• Small bottles of tequila for place card holders
• Place coarse sea salt in the bottom of a vase, then a non-scented candle in the center, add freshly chopped cilantro and lime slices around the candle for that oh so wonderful Mexican smell. Yum! (or forgo the cilantro and use small key limes instead)
• Banana leaf placemats – steam the banana leaves, then blanch and lay flat. Rustic and fun.
• Use white Christmas lights and colourful round paper lanterns and string them around the party area.
• Have a ‘Make Your Own Margarita’ bar – lay out all the ingredients, and fun decorative extras, and let your guests for to town. Just make sure nobody is driving home afterward!!

Cinco de Mayo is an excuse to have a Mexican themed party, and if I was able to, I would be throwing a big one. But alas, that is not in the cards for me this year, so I’m settling with telling YOU how I would do it.

How do YOU celebrate Cinco de Mayo?

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I don’t want to open up a debate about the best way to travel through Mexico (or any country for that matter), as it changes by person based on their budget and personal preferences, however I will say that until you’ve travelled by bus in Mexico, you have not had the full Mexican experience.

Yeah, I went there.

And it’s totally true.

Now, most people think that all buses in Mexico are similar to the chicken buses (old school buses converted into public buses, where you usually have to stand for hours, and sometimes there is livestock on board) in Central America, THAT is not true. Mexico buses are NOTHING LIKE CHICKEN BUSES IN CENTRAL AMERICA! Unless you’re doing one of those city buses, or the small buses that only transport between small towns. Then they are kind of like chicken buses and I would suggest buying a hemroid pillow as your arse will be incredibly sore after like 10 minutes. Trust me on this one.

Fact is Mexico buses are like a million times better than buses in the United States and Canada. Yes, A MILLION TIMES BETTER

• Mexico does not have a first come, first serve, policy like that of **ahem** Greyhound, in North America. Nope. In Mexico you reserve your seat when you buy your ticket.
• Some buses have FREE WIFI – like the one from Mezcales to Guadalajara.
• The seats are cushy and they RECLINE or have FOOT RESTS!
• There is no livestock
• Nobody is going to lop off your head with a samurai sword (sorry Canada, I couldn’t resist).
• Normal people take the bus, not society rejects (like that time I was on a Greyhound bus FULL of ex-cons who had just been released from jail. They wore all jean outfits and had manilla envelopes, it was rather obvious).
• There are different classes, and the first class buses are crazy nice and come with free earbuds, water, a blanket, pillow, and an eye mask. It’s like you’re flying, but you’re in a bus.

My Route Through Mexico

My overall goal was to travel from Bucerias (just 20 mins north of Puerto Vallarta) to Cancun by bus, and stop along the way to explore and experience interior Mexico (as I had been soaking in coastal life until that point). My route was as follows:

1. Mezcales (the closet stop to Bucerias) to Guadalajara
2. Guadalajara to Morelia
3. Morelia to Mexico City
4. Mexico City to Taxco
5. Taxco to Mexico City
6. Mexico City to Oaxaca
7. Oaxaca to San Cristobal
8. San Cristonal to Cancun
9. Cancun to Playa del Carmen

I did everything ‘on the fly’, meaning I didn’t book any of my bus tickets in advance. Instead I did a Google search the morning I wanted to travel, looked for when the next bus was leaving for my desired destination, went to the station, and bought my ticket. I figured if the bus was full, I would simply wait for the next bus. No big deal. Thankfully I didn’t run into that problem.

Dealing with Motion Sickness

I’ve travelled by bus before. I’ve done Toronto to Ocala, Florida (and back), Calgary to Seattle, and Calgary to Toronto; both with Greyhound. I know what it’s like to sit on the same bus for more than 24 hours, and dealing with the weirdos around me.  I know about pretending to be asleep to save the seat beside me (don’t go all karma on me in the comments. If you were on a bus for 24+ hours, you would too!), and sleeping with my valuables. I know that many buses are cold, so dress in layers. And I know that a travel pillow can be a godsend.

Here’s the thing I didn’t know. I am totally susceptible to motion sickness. I have never had motion sickness before, so when it hit during my Mexico City to Oaxaca bus trip, I was surprised and completely unprepared. I arrived in Oaxaca feeling lightheaded and wooshy, and that feeling stayed with me for about two days, limiting my movements in the city. I thought it was a one time thing. Maybe I should have eaten more food that day. But when I took a night bus from Oaxaca to San Cristobal, I was hit hard. The road was incredibly windy, and within an hour I was laying ON THE FLOOR OF THE BUS IN THE FETAL POSITION. The space on the floor was small, and by laying down and curling up, I was able to control how much my body moved around. Needless to say it was a LONG eleven hours, and when I arrived in San Cristobal (for my 7 hour layover before an 18hr bus ride to Cancun) I couldn’t even walk around without wanting to puke my guts out. It. Sucked. Big time.

My solution? A hit of Dramamine with two Melatonin pills. Wow. That was a travel cocktail I will definitely be using in the future!

Classes and Cost

As I mentioned before, Mexico has different classes when it comes to buses. For the most part it’s second class, first class, and platinum class. Although when you compare the buses to that of North America, the second class buses are still like first class. I recently asked on Facebook what everyone thought I spent on bus tickets based on my itinerary above, and I was rather surprised by the answers. Many people low-balled, by a lot! Yes, Mexico is cheap, but it’s not Thailand cheap. There is NO WAY I did the above route for $100 or less. So, how much did it cost me?

1. Mezcales to Guadalajara – 402 pesos ($33.22) with Primera Plus
2. Guadalajara to Morelia – 323 pesos ($26.69) with Primera Plus
3. Morelia to Mexico City – 348 pesos ($28.75) with Primera Plus
4. Mexico City to Taxco – 173 pesos ($14.30) with Costa Line
5. Taxco to Mexico City – 173 pesos ($14.30) with Costa Line
6. Mexico City to Oaxaca – 808 pesos ($66.78) with ADO Platino
7. Oaxaca to San Cristobal – 762 pesos ($62.98) with ADO Platino
8. San Cristobal to Cancun – 994 pesos ($82.16) with ADO GL

My total cost came in at $329.18. Yes, I could have done it for cheaper by taking a regular ADO bus instead of the Platino (Platinum First Class) and GL buses; but I wanted a little extra comfort on those 7+ hour bus rides! Otherwise I could have done the trip on about $200 to $250. Not bad, right?

I could have travelled through Mexico by plane, but I chose the bus because I wanted to see and experience as much of Mexico as I could. I wanted to watch the scenery roll by, and hop off in small Mexican towns during brief pitstops. I wanted to feel more connected, and for me, bus travel makes me feel more connected. And as it turns out if also makes me a tad nauseous at times. Now that I’ve travelled through Mexico by bus, I need a wee break, but I will take buses in the future. That being said I may skip the night buses and spend the extra money on a hostel, then take a day bus!!

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There is something about checking into a hotel room and seeing the word Bienvenida – along with your website name – spelled out in fuchsia coloured flower petals across a bed that makes your heart go pitter patter. It’s a personal touch that is completely unexpected, and absolutely delightful. Sure, they did the ‘@Savoir Faire Abroad’ part just for me, but the ‘Bienvenida’ part is something they do for each and every guest – and I’m told it’s the housekeeping staff’s favourite job.

Hacienda Los Laureles is a boutique hotel in the San Felippe neighbourhood of Oaxaca City, a quiet neighbourhood about 10 mins (or a bumpy local bus ride) away from downtown. Which makes it the perfect choice for travellers who want to a quiet place to relax and refresh after a day of experiencing the vibrance of Oaxaca City.

My time in Oaxaca was… HOT. I assumed the intense heat was just a Mexican thing, until somebody told me Oaxaca was having a heat wave. That’s when I actually started paying attention to the heat and walking around saying ‘Mucho Calor’ (which means hot) to locals, while trying to pretend that I was good with the heat. Except I was sweating like crazy, so I don’t think I was very convincing. So you shouldn’t be too shocked to learn that I was seriously excited to return to my air conditioned room after exploring all day long.

My room was located a stones throw from the pool, in a quiet corner of the property with views of the garden and main buildings. My bed was large and cozy (thank goodness), and I had cable TV and wifi access. Which is why I opted to relax in bed at night and catch-up on sleep!

In the mornings I sat in glass enclosed dinning room, debating about whether to have and American or Mexican breakfast, all while doing a little people watching (I later learned that the hotel is quite popular with top politicians and officials in Oaxaca). The food was excellent, as were the staff.

I’ve been moving through Mexico too quickly (I change locations every two days), and to be honest, by the time I reached Oaxaca I was starting to feel it. My nights at Hacienda Los Laureles were a welcome change from the hostel I had stayed in the previous two nights. Once I checked in and discovered the comforts of my room, my brain and body started to relax, and I got lazy. Like real lazy. I used my time with Hacienda Los Laureles to rejuvenate, and I feel absolutely no shame about that!

Disclaimer: I’d like to thank Peter from Hacienda Los Laureles, and Sylvie from Hoteles Boutique Mexico for arranging my stay. It was exactly what I needed, and I will definitely be back in the future. 

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As with Bangkok, Mexico City is more than a transportation hub, and if you’ve only allotted a couple days for the city with the premis that it is not worth your time, then this is the post for you.

1. Take a TuriBus Tour

A TuriBus tour in Mexico City

I know, open top tourist buses are the epitome of cheesy travel experiences, but before you roll your eyes, hear me out. Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world, and taking a TuriBus tour is a great way to get an overview of the city and make a plan for where you want to go, and what you want to do. I recommend Circuito Centro, although there are three other tours. The cost for the tour is 140 pesos ($12) during the week, and 165 pesos ($14) on the weekend.

2. El Moro – Churreria

Churros and Hot Chocolate

Canada has Tim Hortons coffee and donuts. Mexico City has El Moro. There is nothing more satisfying than ducking into El Moro on a hot day and ordering a cup of Mexican Hot Chocolate and Churros. The hot chocolate in Mexico is thick, rich, and absolutely delightful. MMmm… I’m hungry now. A cup of hot chocolate with four churros is about 30 to 60 pesos ( $2.50 to $5).

3. Lucha Libre

Lucha Libre in Mexico City

Lucha Libre is a national institution, and when visiting Mexico City it is absolutely imperative that you go. A mixture of wrestling, acrobatics, and pure entertainment. The best place to watch Lucha Libre is at Arena Mexico (the holy temple of the Luchadores), and although you can go on your own, joining a tour from one of the hostels in the city can heighten your experience. You can buy Lucha Libre masks outside the arena, or inside for around 80 pesos ($7). Fights happen on Wednesdays and Fridays. Tickets at the arena range in price from $6 USD to $30 USD. Most hostel tours will cost around $30 USD and include your transportation.

4. Diego Rivera Murals at the Palacio Nacional

Diego Rivera Murals

Located across the street (well, kiddy corner) from Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral is the National Palace, home to some stellar Diego Rivera murals. Admission to the palace is FREE, so really, why would you not go?! Oh, and the murals are fairly spectacular. Just saying.

5. Casa Azul – Frida Kahlo Museum

Sign for Frida Kahlo Museum

Frida Kahlo is a national icon in Mexico, and if you are unfamiliar with her and her art, watch the movie, Frida, before your visit. Casa Azul (Blue House) is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Mexico City, and well worth your time. Visit early in the morning (try to get there for the 10am opening) to have a less crowded experience. Admission is 80 pesos ($7). If you want to take photos you’ll need to pay an additional 40 pesos ($3.40).

6. Templo Mayor

Ruins of Templo Mayor

About half a block from Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral are the ancient Aztec ruins of Templo Mayor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although you can get a basic overview from the street, to truly explore the ruins you’ll need to pay 57 pesos ($4.75), which gives you access to the ruins, as well as the museum where many original artifacts are housed.  Templo Mayor was the main temple of the Aztecs. When the Spaniards arrived in Mexico they destroyed many scared sites and built over top of them. This was the case with Templo Mayor.

7. Street Markets

Aztec headdress at a street market

Mexico’s street market culture dates back to its early history, and while you may prefer shopping malls at home, in Mexico you really need to experience the street market culture in each and every city. And especially in Mexico City. Every Sunday the zocolo (main plaza) is filled with vendors selling clothing, souvenirs, and shaman services. El mercado de Sonora (Av Fray Servando Teresa de Mier #419, Col Merced Balbuena) and El mercado de Jamaica (Calzada de la Viga y Eje 3 norte) are the biggest and busiest markets, but totally worth a visit. This is where you’ll find live animals, black magic, food, clothing, housewares, and more.

8. Temple and Ex Convent de San Juan Bautista in Coyoacan

Coyoacan on a Saturday

The area around Temple and Ex Convent de San Juan Bautista in Coyoacan is filled with parks (with lots of shade for hot summer days), shops, cafes, and of course the cathedral. Weekends is the liveliest time to visit, and there is a chance you’ll come across a bride and groom walking out of the cathedral. This is a stop on the Turibus Circuito Sur route, so it’s worth taking the Turibus to get there as a taxi would cost a lot more money. Of course you can also try the city buses.

9. Street Food

Taco Bistek

The BEST food (most of the time) in Mexico can be found on the street. It’s hot, fresh, yummy, and cheap. And if you’re going to Mexico City then you MUST eat street food. Quesadillas, Torta (hot sandwiches), Tacos… try them all, you won’t be disappointed. In fact, if you’re a food truck junkie then search for Mexico City’s night food markets (there is one in Coyoacan), or hang out in Zona Rosa for food carts. Actually you can find street food pretty much everywhere in Mexico City, so go out and enjoy!!

Of course if you’re a little nervous about street food, then take a food tour to wet your whistle. After that you will definitely be hooked on street food, and Mexico City!!

So, who is going to Mexico City?

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It should be pretty obvious now that I love Mexico and that I think EVERYONE should experience the real Mexico, the Mexico that exists beyond the white sand beaches and sparkling blue ocean in Cancun and other resort hotspots. The Mexico that is filled with history, culture, yummy food, and amazing people.

Okay, there are amazing Mexicans in the resort hotspots too.

I know you guys really want to come to Mexico now, but you’re not sure what to expect, and there is a slight possibility that some you think everyone wears ponchos and rides donkeys. On the off chance that you need a little Mexico prep help I’ve (along with some Mexican friends) compiled an awesome post of music, movies, books, and cookbooks to get you into the Mexican vibe before your trip.

Viva Mexico!!

Music

As much wish I could record a CD of the ‘Mexican noise’ from the barrio in Bucerias, I fear I’m the only one who would truly enjoy it. So here are some Mexican artists that come HIGHLY recommended by my friend Martha from Playa del Carmen.

Movies

There are so many movies movies that involve Mexico in one way or another that it would be silly sto list them all here. So I’m picking my favourites. Some of them are about famous Mexicans, some are about travel in Mexico, and some simply take place in Mexico. Another great resource is the National Geographic Mexican video collection.

Blogs

There are a couple Mexican blogs that are worth reading before, and during your travels in Mexico. The following blogs are either written by Mexicans, or by expats in Mexico. Either way there is a wealth of information available for both planning and inspiration.

Go Mexico Guide: a travel site that aims to provide you with useful information about and meaningful experiences in Mexico.

Mexico Travel: an About.com guide written by Suzanne Barbezat. Suzanne has been an expat in Mexico for 15 years and she is a wealth of Mexican knowledge. Suzanne also works as a guide in Oaxaca.

The Other Side of the Tortilla: a Mexican cooking, culture and travel blog showcasing the original writing and photography of Maura Wall Hernandez.

Mexican at Heart: Jessica is an American expat who fell in love with a Mexican and now lives in Mexico City.

Journey Mexico: a fabulous resource and tour website on Mexico that is sure to get your feet itchy!!

Books

Yay! Books about Mexico! These are some of my personal suggestions. Of course if you think I’ve missed something then feel free to leave your suggestions in the comments.

Learning Spanish

Yes, yes you should attempt to learn Spanish before your trip to Mexico. Sure, some people speak okay English, but your travels will be a lot easier if you can speak some Spanish. Trust me!!

Cook Books

Authentic Mexican food is vastly different from what you’re use to eating at fast food restaurants like Taco Bell, or the stuff you make at home using Old El Paso products. So, if you enjoy cooking, and experimenting, then I suggest trying one or more of the following cookbooks. Mmmmm Mexican food…

So, who is ready to book a trip to Mexico and tell me all about where they will be going?

Disclosure: I am moving away from doing sponsored posts and into affiliate marketing, where I make a small commission on items sold through this website. I have carefully selected each of the items listed on this website to ensure that I am recommending products that I know are helpful, inspirational, and something I would buy myself (if I haven’t already). Thank-you for supporting Savoir Faire Abroad.

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