ST FASHION & TECHNOLOGY

We grew this factory

2022-06-22T17:47:00.000+06:00

Najma Chaudhary

There are currently 16,000 women working as 'mid-level managers' in Bangladesh's main export manufacturing garment industry. This journey of women began with the hand of the woman whose hand, it was Najma Chaudhary. She is the first female quality controller, designer and line chief of Bangladesh’s readymade garment sector.

Garments are the pioneer country of Bangladesh’s garment sector as well as manufacturing industry. Najma Chowdhury was one of the 133 workers and mid-level managers that the country sent in 1979 to the garment factory of the world-renowned Dayu Company in Busan, South Korea, to train in modern garment machines.

"In 1979, I saw a huge advertisement in the daily Ittefaq newspaper that some people would be taken to South Korea for training to work in ready-made garment factories. When they return home after training, they will get a job. "

He also said that the country has signed an agreement with Dayu of Garments Korea to set up an export-oriented garment factory in joint ventures. Dayu was one of the largest industrial units in Korea. Since Bangladesh did not have the opportunity to get orders directly from foreign buyers, it was agreed that the country would take the Dayu order and transfer it to garments, in return for which they would get a commission at a certain rate.

After joining Desh Garments after completing his training, in 1980 or 81, he was paid Rs 6,000 as a mid-level manager, which was several times more than the salary of a first-class government official at that time.
What kind of training was there? Najma Chowdhury said that basically basic training. How a shirt is made. In how many steps. All the steps were taught separately. Sitting on a machine, one would make a part, not a full shirt. The way garment factories work today, just like that. That is, chain production, which was not yet in any garment factory in Bangladesh.

"The biggest challenge at the time was to get workers. With the success of country garments, other entrepreneurs also came forward to invest in this sector.

Pointing out that there were a lot of differences with the design of the factory at that time, he said, "Now everything happens on a computer. Many factories have their own design studios. But at that time, the paper had to be drawn. The paper was not easily available. "
Najma Chowdhury got married in 1983 while working in the country garments. After the marriage, her husband's reluctance interfered with her work for a few months, but she persuaded her husband to join work again.

He said he has also played a role in creating quality departments of several factories outside these companies. However, he did not work in any other factory after leaving Evins last in 2006. Since then, she has spent most of her time with her two children living in the United States and the United Kingdom. Come to the country in rarely. Her daughter completed her studies at the University of Cambridge in the UK and her son from Rutgers University in the US and is now successful in her career.

Today, Bangladesh's $35 billion, the world's second-largest ready-made garment export industry, stands on the foundation built by them through the export of garments worth $12,000.
Najma Chowdhury said, "What does it feel like to see clothes with 'Made in Bangladesh' written on foreign soil. I can't explain. We grew this factory. "

STAY WITH US WILL SEE WHY!!

What is the transit time by sea?

2022-05-13T23:06:00.000+06:00

Transit times means total amount of time (Hours/Days), how many hours/days need to arrive the goods from an origin point to their destination.

Here we have given some destination (Sea Port), via, transit time with approx. fright cost from Chittagong for your better understanding.

STAY WITH US WILL SEE WHY!!

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF PRODUCTION STAFF FOR RMG SECTOR.

2022-04-27T18:05:00.002+06:00

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF CUTTING MANAGER

To make the cutting plan table wise.

To ensure the markers are ready and the concerned in put person is sent to the warehouse for receipt of fabric, internal and fusing.

To follow up properly as dia/width, GSM, Fabric relaxation, shade separation & shrinkage test etc.

To review the marker and ensure it is in accordance to the consumption given by the merchandising department.

In case of embroidery or printing required onto the garments the cutting manager must ensure necessary approval is taken from the Merchants before start of bulk cutting.

To conduct fabric reconciliation at the end of the order

To work with the Production Manager for the sequence of input.

To follow the trim card.

To ensure that there are no wastages.

To ensure that the cutters are allocated their tables and safety gears are put by them

To maintain the house keeping of the cutting floor.

To main discipline on the cutting floor.

Reporting to the Head of Operations.

KPI

a) Cutting is accordance to the order & consumption requirement.

b) There is a continuous feed of cutting to the production floor.

c) Zero wastage.

Cutting Department

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF CUTTING SUPERVISOR

To take the laying plan from the Cutting Manager.

After the cutting has been done to ensure that numbering and bundling starts.

To ensure necessary parts are sent to the fusing dept and that the fusing in charge has with him the sequence plan.

To bundle the goods and perform numbering on them.

To give reports to the cutting manager on consumptions

To send goods to printing and embroidery as the case might be with the necessary documents.

SEWING DEPARTMENT

SEWING

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF THE PRODUCTION MANAGER – SEWING

To monitor the daily projection, achievement and action plan needed in the line.

To ensure that the flow is smooth and in accordance with the sealed sample.

To lead the daily morning meeting.

To attend all PP meetings and work with the sample room for creating of work aids.

To analyze the cut-to-ship data and ensure there is a continuous improvement.

To analyze all new styles that will go into the line.

To work with the merchandising dept for the forthcoming orders.

To ensure that the target given is met and in case of not it needs to be immediately notified to the higher authorities.

To work with the HOO on the manpower & machine planning and reviewing the new recruitment.

To ensure that there are no WIP of the style which has been finished out of the line.

To monitor all start-up styles

To work closely with the stores.

To hold meetings with the line as and when required.

To motivate the workforce.

To maintain a discipline in the shop-floor

Reporting to the Head of Operations.

KPI

a) Cut-to-ship in accordance to the target set by the management.

b) Manpower as per discussed.

c) Minimum in line rejections.

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF THE FLOOR INCHARGE – SEWING

To start the line by balancing the absenteeism in the line.

To ensure that the issues of the quality defects of the following day are passed on the operators so that he or she is aware of the corrective action needed to improve the quality of the product.

To focus on areas where there is a bottle neck so that the line-flow is maintained.

Line balancing with the available manpower and skill set

To attend the daily board meeting and discuss all points relating to quality, output, process control and the target set on the bulletin and build-up.

To ensure that the input person is coordinating with all the respective depts. so that there is no issue of input in regard to cutting and trims.

To see to it that the is WIP in line is always maintained at 3000 pcs

To see to it that the output is in accordance to the sewing plan and that there are no balances in the line.

To repair garments found defective within the same day.

To ensure that all machine related issues are discussed with the concerned maintenance person in the line.

To monitor all production related reports.

To work closely with the PM for sewing program and line balancing along with their respective Line Managers.

Maintain discipline in the line.

Reporting to Production Manager.

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF THE LINE SUPERVISOR – SEWING

To monitor that the machine output of the line and that the product is in accordance to the quality requirement.

To ensure that the input in the line is as per the sequence of the sewing plan.

To maintain all bundles and at all times move the panel in bundling form.

To match all the bodies parts and tie them in the bundle so that there is minimum handling of the operator.

To keep all trimmings ready before the operator so that there is no loss of needle time.

Visit the respective in line quality tables and immediately address all the QC concerns to the operators so that the goods are first time right.

To see to it that the sewing plan is closed before the new sewing plan comes out of the line.

To monitor the hourly production report.

To control the line feeding and trims.

To work closely with the input person.

To keep all work methods ready

Reporting to the Floor in charge & Production Manager.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

FINISHING

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF FINISHING MANAGER

To monitor the Daily Manpower Allocation.

To work closely the Merchandiser & Head of Operations for the weekly shipment plan.

To work closely that the goods being received are in accordance to the shipment plan.

To monitor hourly production.

To daily review the rejected garments and discuss with the Head of Operations so that there are no last minute surprises at the time of shipment.

To ensure that all packing trims are available and if not then it needs to be immediately reported to the Merchandiser & Head of Operations.

To take the help of sewing for any critical repair.

To motivate the team and maintain discipline in the lines.

Reporting to the Unit Head.

KPI

a) Cut-to-ship in accordance to the target set by the management.

b) 100% shipment

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF THE FINISHING IN CHARGE

To monitor the daily in input into the line.

To keep all trims ready in accordance with the trim card.

Maintain layout so that there is a smooth flow of goods into the lines.

Review all styles with the merchants and approve a first pc for all packing details before start up of the packing.

To ensure that there is regular feed of cartons to the audit dept so that any issues can be caught immediately.

To perform all re-inspection and not to keep any PO’s pending.

To achieve the target as set during the morning meeting.

Reporting to the Finishing Manager.

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF THE FINISHING SUPERVISOR

To see that there is a continuous flow of material with all the required trims.

To work closely with the Line Manger

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF PACKING IN CHARGE

To close shipments in accordance to the PO.

To ensure that the carton stickers are made ready and packing slip handed to the Finishing Manager.

Reporting to the Finishing Manager.

QUALITY DEPARTMENT

QUALITY

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF QUALITY HEAD / MANAGER

To set a strong in line quality team who can monitor sewing & cutting output as per the requirement of the buyer.

To ensure that every style has a mock up of the critical operations.

To closely follow all changeovers.

To attend all PP meetings and review the Pilot lot for construction and measurements.

To provide feedback to the Line Manager of any non-compliance of quality requirement.

For all washed garments to first wash four pcs and see that the shrinkage taken in the pattern meets the specific.

To take part in every change over and provide immediate comments so that there is Fist Time / First Out product meeting quality parameters set by the customer.

Reporting to the Head of Operations

KPI

a) Shipment 100%.

b) Pass rate at the final Audit stage conducted by the buyers or third party QC

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF QUALITY ASST MANAGER

Monitor all critical operations.

Daily review rejected garments.

Audit cartons and conduct pre-finals.

Educate the in-line quality checkers.

Make the Line Manager aware of the previous days rejection first thing in the morning so that the Floor in charge can take necessary action in the line.

Manpower planning and allocation.

MAINTENANCE HEAD

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF MAINTENANCE IN CHARGE

Addressing all machinery breakdown and loss time in Cutting, Sewing & Finishing.

Making of the Daily Machine breakdown analysis.

Taking stock of needle, spares and attachments.

Preventive maintenance of the machines

Helping in machine layout Breakdown maintenance on immediate bases for all critical machines and critical operations.

Support staff – Maintenance in Charge and mechanics per line.

1. KPI

a) Minimum loss time and which does not affect the productivity of the output target

b) Reduction of part replacement

STAY WITH US WILL SEE WHY!!

Some Common Woven Fabric Composition & Construction with GSM

2022-04-26T00:44:00.004+06:00

(A) SHEETING FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Sheeting

Construction- 60X60/14X14

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 220

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Sheeting

Construction- 60X60/16X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 185

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Sheeting

Construction- 60X60/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 150

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Sheeting

Construction- 68X68/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 115

(B) POPLIN FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 110X60/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 160

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 102X72/24X24

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 178

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Heavy Poplin

Construction- 100X81/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 148

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Heavy Poplin

Construction- 124X68/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 158

5. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 128X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 123

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 146X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 133

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 133X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 128

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 110X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 110

9. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 133X100/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 150

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 128X100/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 145

11. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 74X72/40X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 150

12. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 148X81/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 118

13. Composition- 100% Cotton Poplin

Construction- 110X76/60X60

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 80

14. Composition- 100% Cotton Premium Poplin

Construction- 108X91/80X80

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 60

15. Composition- 100% Cotton Premium Lawn

Construction- 128X98/80/2X80

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 108

16. Composition- 100% Cotton Premium Poplin

Construction- 128X81/80/2X80/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 128

17. Composition- 100% Cotton Premium Poplin

Construction- 144X1/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 115

(C) POPLIN FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 74X44/10X10

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 315

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Light Canvas

Construction- 96X58/16X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 235

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Light Canvas

Construction- 100X50/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 185

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 100X50/20X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 195

5. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 72X42/20/2X10

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 312

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 116X52/30/2X30/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 286

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 100X48/30/2X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 260

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 112X50/40/2X40/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 198

9. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 110X54/40/2X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 192

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Canvas

Construction- 144X81/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 118

(D) TWILL (SOLID) FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Heavy Twill

Construction- 72X44/7X7

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 410

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 74X46/10X7

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 350

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 74X44/10X10

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 310

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 108X56/16X12

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 290

5. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 12X50/16X7

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-385

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 108X58/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-210

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Zigzag Twill (Herringbone)

Construction- 108X60/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-210

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 120X64/20X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-245

9. Composition- 100% Cotton 3/1 Twill

Construction- 140X64/20X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-270

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 128X60/20X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-260

11. Composition- 100% Cotton 3/1 Twill

Construction- 98X64/24X24

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-165

12. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Twill

Construction- 100X64/24X24

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-167

13. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 126X72/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-100

14. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 144X72/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-176

15. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Twill

Construction- 130X70/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-165

16. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Twill

Construction- 140X80/30X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-100

17. Composition- 100% Cotton 4/1 Twill

Construction- 159X69/30X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-185

18. Composition- 100% Cotton 4/1 Stain Twill

Construction- 128X91/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-134

19. Composition- 100% Cotton Heavy Twill

Construction- 124X60/40/2X20/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-300

20. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Twill

Construction- 148X80/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-118

21. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Twill

Construction- 148X70/50/2X50/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-220

22. Composition- 100% Cotton Twill

Construction- 146X76/60/2X60/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-190

(E) T/C CVC BLENDS (SOLID) FABRIC:

1. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) 3/1 Twill

Construction- 100X58/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-210

2. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 130X70/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-165

3. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Poplin Solid

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

4. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Cross Dyed Poplin

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

5. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 96X72/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-100

6. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 133X72/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

7. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 136X72/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-118

8. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 148X91/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-130

9. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Poplin

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-108

10. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Oxford

Construction- 112X54/45X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-140

11. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Dobby

Construction- 118X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

12. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Dobby

Construction- 146X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-120

13. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Dobby

Construction- 118X91/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

14. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Dobby

Construction- 118X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

14. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Twill

Construction- 122X72/45/2X45/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-212

15. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Cotley Dobby

Construction- 120X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-112

(F) STRIPE (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Sheeting Stripe

Construction- 72X50/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-160

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 110X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-114

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 120X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-120

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Fil-a-Fil Stripe

Construction- 112X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

5. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 110X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-110

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 98X50/40X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-119

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 96X50/40X20/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-180

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Dobby Stripe

Construction- 100X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

9. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Dobby Stripe

Construction- 120X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-116

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 100X50/40X20/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-183

11. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Fil-a-Fil Stripe

Construction- 100X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-110

12. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 120X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-118

13. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 124X74/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

14. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe (Wrinkle Free Finish)

Construction- 120X80/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

15. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Dobby Stripe

Construction- 120X80/80/2X80/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-122

16. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe

Construction- 110X68/80/2X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-110

17. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe

Construction- 110X72/80/2X80/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-112

18. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Stripe

Construction- 110X76/80/2X80/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-114

19. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe

Construction- 110X76/80/2X80/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

20. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe (Wrinkle Free)

Construction- 144X75/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-100

21. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe

Construction- 120X81/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-98

22. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Stripe

Construction- 120X91/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-103

(G) CHECK (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check Twill

Construction- 68X57/16X16

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-190

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check Twill

Construction- 60X53/16+30/2X16+30/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-185

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check Twill

Construction- 62X50/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-135

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 70X54/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-150

5. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 60X60/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-150

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check Twill

Construction- 80X70/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-122

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 90X60/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-125

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 73X68/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-118

9. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 110X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-110

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 112X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

11. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 120X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-116

12. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 110X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-114

13. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 120X64/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-112

14. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 110X64/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-106

15. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 120X80/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-122

16. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 120X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-116

17. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 123X76/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-125

18. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 133X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-130

19. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 124X76/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

20. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 110X70/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-95

21. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check (Wrinkle Free Finish)

Construction- 124X76/50X50

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

22. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Check

Construction- 110X76/80/2X80/0

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

23. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Check

Construction- 98X70/80/2X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-105

24. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Check

Construction- 110X76/100/2X100/2

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-90

(H) T/C & CVC (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

1. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Y/D Stripe

Construction- 110X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

2. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

3. Composition- T/C (65/35 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 130X70/40X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

4. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Herringbone (Dobby)

Construction- 120X80/40X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-108

5. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Herringbone (Dobby)

Construction- 110X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-98

6. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Herringbone (Dobby)

Construction- 120X81/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-109

7. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 120X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-108

8. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 126X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-109

9. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 110X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-98

10. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

11. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Fil-a-Fil

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

12. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 110X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-98

13. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 120X80/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-115

14. Composition- T/C (60/40 Blend) Y/D Check

Construction- 120X70/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-110

(I) PRINTED FABRIC:

1. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Sheeting

Construction- 60X60/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 148

2. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Rib Stop

Construction- 112X58/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 208

3. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Rib Sheeting

Construction- 68X68/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 115

4. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Poplin

Construction- 100X81/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 148

5. Composition- 100% Cotton 2/1 Printed Twill

Construction- 130X70/30X30

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 165

6. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Poplin

Construction- 128X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 122

7. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Twill

Construction- 108X58/20X20

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 210

8. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Poplin

Construction- 133X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 128

9. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Poplin

Construction- 133X72/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 128

10. Composition- 100% Cotton Printed Poplin

Construction- 110X70/40X40

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 110

11. Composition- 100% Cotton Y/D Premium Check

Construction- 110X76/100/0X100/0

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM- 90

12. Composition- T/C (65/35) Printed

Construction- 110X76/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-104

13. Composition- T/C (65/35) Printed

Construction- 96X72/45X45

Fabric Width- 57”/58”

GSM-93

STAY WITH US WILL SEE WHY!!

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS FOR TEXTILE AND GARMENTS TECHNOLOGY.

2022-04-24T01:04:00.000+06:00

(A)

AGM= Assistant General Manager.

AAQC= American Association of Quality Control.

AQL= Acceptable Quality Level.

(B)

BGMEA= Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing and Exporters Association.

BTMC= Bangladesh Textile Mill Corporation.

BGWUC= Bangladesh Garments Worker Unit Council.

BL= Bill ofLading.

BFQ= Better Fisheries Quality.

BWTG= Better Worker in Textile Garments.

BY= Bas Year.

BQSP= Bangladesh Quartet Support Programme.

BE= Bachelor of Engineering.

BTMA= Bangladesh Textile Mill Association.

BB L/C= Back To Back L/C.

(C)

CBL= Center Back Line.

CFL= Center Front Line.

C and F= Cost and Freight.

CIF= Cost, Insurance and Freight.

CMT= Cost of Making with Trimming/Cut make trim/Cut make thread.

CMO= Cost of Making Order.

CO= Certificate of Origin.

CAD= Computer Aided Design.

CAM= Computer Aided Manufacturing.

CSO= Chief Security Officer.

CBM= Cubic Meter.

CNF= Clearing & Forwarding.

CEO= Chief Executive Officer.

CF= Cubic Feet.

CS= Shade Difference Between Center and Selvedge in Woven Fabric.

(D)

DTM= Dyed To March.

(E)

EPI= Ends Per Inch.

EPB= ExporterPromotion Bureau.

EU= European Union.

ETP=Effluent Treatment Plan.

ETD= Stands for Estimated Time of Delivery (Shipment Delivery Schedule).

ETA= Stands for Estimated Time of Arrival (Shipment Arrival Schedule).

ETB= Estimated Time of Berthing.

(F)

FOB= Free OnBoard.

FY=Financial Year.

FPP= Full Package Production.

(G)

GDP= Growth Domestic Product.

GSP= Generalized System of Preference.

GATT= Generalized Agreement on Tariffs and Taxes.

GOB= Government Of Bangladesh.

GB= Great Britain.

GM= General Manager.

GPT= Garments Performance Test.

GSM= Grams Per Square Meter.

GLM= Grams Per Linear/Running Meter.

(H)

HS CODE= Harmonized System (Harmonized Commodity Description And Coding System).

(I)

IFTU= International Federation of Trade Union.

IMF= International Monetary Fund.

ILO= International Labor Organization.

ISO= International Organization For Standardization.

(K)

KPI= Key Performance Indicators.

(L)

LDC= Latest Developed Country.

LCA= Letter ofCredit Authorization.

L= Large(Size).

L/C= LetterOf Credit.

(M)

M and W= Men and Women.

M= Medium(Size).

MFA= Multi Fiber Arrangement.

MOT= Ministry of Textile.

MOC= Ministry of Commerce.

(N)

NSA= No Seam Allowance

(O)

OTT= Over The Top.

(P)

PTS= Primary Textile Sectors.

PSI= Pre-Shipment Inspection.

PTI= Private Textile Industry.

P/C= Polyester + Cotton.

PM= Production Manager.

PPI=Picks Per Inch.

PSI= Pre-Shipment Inspection.

PO= Production Officer.

PO= Purchase Order.

(R)

RnD= Textile Research And Development.

RFD/PFD= Ready For Dyeing/Prepared For Dyeing.

(S)

S= Small(size).

(T)

TUF= Technology Upgradation Fund.

T/C= Tetron + Cotton.

TU= Trade Union.

T&A= Time & Action Plan.

(U)

UD= UtilizationDeclaration.

UP=Utilization Permission.

UNDP= United Nations Development Programme.

UNIDO= United Nation International Development Organization.

UNEC= United Nation Economic and Development Commission

(V)

VAT= Value added Tax.

(W)

WTO= World Trade Organization.

W and C= Women and Girls.

(X)

XL= Extra Large(size)

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What is the purpose of enzyme wash?

2022-04-21T01:06:00.002+06:00

The trend today is towards garment processing. This is because garment processing offers the processor better and more varied opportunities to add value to the garments in terms of fashionable looks as well as feel. In such a fast changing scenario, Enzymes are playing an important role. Sulfas Chemical Industries with its in depth knowledge of the Textile and Fashion Industry has a whole range of enzymes to offer to the processor. Enzyme used to match with the desired shade, here enzyme process is done by using Acid or Neutral enzyme. Enzyme process can be medium enzyme, light enzyme, heavy enzyme or stone enzyme.

ENZYME WASH EFFECT

Mainly two types of Enzyme are used:

Liquid Enzyme (Acid Enzyme) is used for take to blue tone.
Powder Enzyme (Natural Enzyme) is used for take to radish tone.

Object of Enzyme wash:

· To remove the size materials from the garments.

· To remove the starch presents on the garments fabric.

· To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in sewing area.

· For soft felling to wear the garments i.e to improve softness.

· To achieve the buyer reference sample/washing standard.

· To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.

· Especially improve the anti pilling properties.

· Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabric and gives a very smooth surface.

· Develop Bio-Polishing affect on denim in echo friendly way.

The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men’s long pants (Trouser) are described below:-

First step: Desizing

Lot weight (80 pcs) = 60 kg denim long pant.

Add water @ L:R = 1:9 i.e. 540 liters.

Machine running.

Temperature = 60°c.

Add desizing agent @ = 0.6 gm/liter i.e. 324 gm.

Add detergent @ = 0.8 gm/liter i.e. 432.

Time = 10-20 minutes.

Drop the liquor.

Wash by cold water.

Second step: Enzyme

Add water @ L:R = 1:8 i.e. 450 liters.

Temperature = 45°c.

Add acetic acid @ = 0.6gm/liter i.e. 270 gm.

Add anti back staining @ = 0.6 gm/liter i.e. 270 gm.

Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute.

Drain the bath.

Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Third step: Softening

Add water @ L:R = 1:8 i.e. 450 liters.

Add acetic acid @ = 0.6gm/liter i.e. 270 gm.

Cationic softener @ = 1 gm/liter i.e. 450 gm.

Temperature = cold.

Time = 15-20 minutes.

Drain the bath.

Then unload the garments on trolley.

Fourth step: Hydro-extractor machine

After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Fifth step: Drying machine

Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

Temperature set = 75°c to 85°c.

Time-

Run about 40 minutes in hot dryer.
After then run 10 minutes in cold dryer.

Sixth step: Delivery

After dryer garments goes to quality section for quality checking and goods one delivery.

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What is the acid wash?

2022-04-17T03:32:00.000+06:00

ACID WASH:

Garments made from heavy jeans & denim fabrics are washed by acid wash technique. Pumice stone is used for washing. Soda as antistant, liquid enzyme, powder enzyme acetic acid and pumice stone are used in acid wash. Irregular spotty effect can be produced in the garments through acid wash. Pumice stones are perforated stones produced by volcanic explosion. At first it is soft, but becomes cold, it seems to like the stones with rough surface. This type of stones floats on water.

One important thing about acid wash is that the process is without water so the effect will be more random and variation will to a larger extent than regular washes. So by keeping the batch size minimum this variation can be controlled. The simple relation is larger is the batch size greater is the variation in result.

Object of acid wash-

· To produce irregular fading effects or old looking effect.

· For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e to improve softness.

· To achieve the buyer washing standard.

· To increase rubbing fastness.

Acid Wash of Denim Trouser:-

The process of acid wash of 60kg batch of denim trouser is mentioned below-

(A) First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing

Add water @L:R = 1:10 i.e. 600 liters.

Start machine.

Add desizing agent @ = 1 gm/liters i.e. 600 gms.

Time = 20 minutes.

Drop the liquor.

Rinse one for 3 minutes (Cold)

(B) Second Step: Hot wash

Add water @ L:R = 1:10 i.e.600 liters.

Temperature = 60°c.

Time = 5 minutes.

Drop the liquor. Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garments surface.

Unload the garments from the washing machine in the trolley.

Load the pretreated garments in the dryer machine.

Dry the garments completely & unload the garments. The pumice stones used for acid wash need to pretreat in the following chemical solution.

Water = 100 liters.

Stone Preparation

Potassium per manganate = 1000gms.

Phosphoric acid = 250gms.

Stier the solution in a stainless steel tube with dry pumice stone.

Soak the stones with chemical solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for 2 to 3 hrs.

Then pretreated garments 30-40kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.

Load the pretreated stones about 50kg in washing machine.

Start machine running for each batch for 7 to 10 minutes.

Stop machine running.

Unload the treated garment separately. Pumice stones with P.P solution hit on garment surface as a result fading will be developed. Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.

Prepared Stone

(C) Third step: Wash for cleaning

Batch weight = 70kg.

Add water @L:R = 1:8 i.e. 560 liters.

Add detergent @ = 1 gm/liter i.e. 560gms.

Temperature = 40°c

Time = 10 minutes.

Drop the liquor. Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garment surface.

(D) Fourth step: Whitening/Neutralization

Add water @L:R = 1:8 i.e. 560 liters.

Machine running.

Add metabisulphite @ = 5 gm/liter i.e. 2800gms.

Cold temperature.

Time = 5 minutes.

Drop the liquor.

(E) Fifth step: Soft wash

Add water @L:R = 1:7 i.e. 490 liters.

Machine running.

Add acetic acid @ = 0.6 gm/liter i.e. 294gms.

Add softener @ = 1 gm/liter i.e. 490gms.

Then unload the garments.

(F) Sixth step: Hydro-extractor machine

Hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the garments.

(G) Seventh step: Dryer machine

After hydroextractor the garments are sent to drying machine for complete drying.

(H) Eighth step: Quality & Delivery

After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one delivery.

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What is meant by acceptable quality level? (AQL Chart)

2022-04-15T01:09:00.000+06:00

A.Q.L (Acceptable Quality Level):

The acceptable quality level (AQL) is measure applied to products and defined is ISO 2859-1 as the quality level that is the worst tolerable. The AQL tells you how many defective components are considered acceptable during random sampling quality inspections.

They followed the following AQL chart. Several times buyer gives the instruction that what type of AQL they have to follow.

AQL CHART

What does AQL of 1.5, 2.5, 4 & 6.5 mean?

In the quality control industry defects are classified per critical, major and minor. If the buyer only mentions AQL like 1.5, 2.5,4 or 6.5 any one, it means that the buyer accepts all kind of defects (Critical, Major, Minor) to be present in the manufactured goods at a level of 1.5, 2.5, 4 or 6.5 (%) of the total order quantity.

What is sample in garments industry?

2022-04-14T02:15:00.000+06:00

Types of sample produce according to buyer demand:

SMAPLE

There is various type of sample those are given below-

1. Original sample:

This type of sample made of original fabric and accessories according to buyer/customer sketch and measurement. Sometimes buyer/Customer send this sample for pricing & develop sample as original.

2. Counter sample:

Counter sample can be defined as the reference sample of the original and signed sample. The counter sample is made the same way as the original sample is made and sent to the buyer.

3. Proto/ Develop/Fit sample:

Are also known as the first sample. Proto samples are normally made with available fabric, here measurement & styling is very important but need not to match the fabric and accessories.

4. Seal (Red or Gold) sample:

Seal sample is approved by the buyer with tag. That means buyer approved (With fabric & all trims) this sample for bulk production.

5. Size set sample:

All sizes of sample are produced such as S, M, L, XL, etc, and send to buyer for final approval to start bulk production, here very important issue is measurement. This sample made with all actual fabric & trims.

6. Wash sample:

Shade of wash sample must be matched with original sample after washing. It also determined by grey scale.

7. Pre-production sample (PP):

First garment of bulk production is called pre- production sample. PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory. PP sample are made whit all actual items.

8. Add sample:

For advertising of the product buyer want this type of sample.

9. Sales man sample (SMS):

To supply the new product in different showroom. SMS samples are sent out to sales reps in order to take pre-orders or intent orders from trade show, retailers and wholesale accounts.

10. Photo sample:

Only photograph of the product is send to buyer.

11. Shipment/ Reference sample:

After completion the shipment of the garment some garments are kept in sample room which are known as shipment or reference sample.

12. Pre-line sample:

This type of sample is collected from anyone line during production.

13. Lab-test sample:

Sample is tested by third party or buyer’s nominated lab. This sample that is collected from the bulk production and send to a testing lab for garment performance test (GPT) as buyer requirement.

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STONE WASH PROCESS

2022-04-12T01:18:00.000+06:00

The stone used in stone wash known as pumice stone that contains the air pockets. I.c this stone is perforated. These are collected from volcanoes Explosion. At first it is soft when the materials come in cool. It seems to like solid form i.c it seems to like stone with ruffed surface. They float on water. They are irregular shaped like small, medium and large. Because of having irregular surface on it a rubbing action is introduced during washing between fabric and stone. As a result dyes or pigment are stain, fading effect is creating and making the garments more soft. Of the stones used big stones will give abrasion. Small stones mild abrasion. However big stones may damage the garments. If made of light weight fabric or fabric of weak construction.

PUMICE STONE

OBJECT OF STONE WASHING-

· To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

· To create or produce irregular fading or old looking affect on garments.

· To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in sewing area.

· For soft felling to wear the garments i.e to improve softness.

· To achieve the buyer reference sample/washing standard.

STONE WASH EFFECT

Washing procedure of stone wash.

1^st step (Desizing i.c. Pretreatment.)

A lot size of 100 kg garments considered.

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Load the washing machine with water at the rate of liquor ratio 1:5 (500L)

Start the machine running.

Add desizing agent to the liquor at the rate of 3 gm/l(1.5kg).

Start steam supply to raise temperature up to 60°C.

Continue process for 20min.

Drop the liquor.

2^nd step(hot wash)

A lot size of 100 kg garment considered.

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Load the washing machine with water at the rate of liquor ratio 1:5 (500L).

Start the machine running.

Start steam supply to raise temperature up to 40 c.

Continue process for 5 min.

Drop the liquor.

3^rd step (stone wash)

A lot size of 100 kg garment required.

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Load the washing machine with water at the rate of liquor ratio 1:5 (500L).

Start the machine running.

Add bleaching powder “Ca(OCl)Cl”to the liquor ratio at the rate of 4%(4kg).

Add soda ash to the liquor at the rate of 8% (8kg).

Add pumice stone ½ of the volume of the garments.

Continue process for 20-40 min.

Drop the liquor.

STONE WASH

4^th step (hot wash)

A lot size of 100 kg garment considered.

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Load the washing machine with water at the rate of liquor ratio 1:5 (500L).

Add detergent to the liquor at the rate of 1% (1kg).

Start steam supply to raise temperature up to 40 °c.

Continue process for 5 min.

Drop the liquor.

5^th step (Neutral wash)

A lot size of 100 kg garment considered.

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Add acetic acid tio the liquor at the rate of 2 ml /L (1L).

Continue process for 5 min.

Drop the liquor.

If the requirement is of better soft feeling: -

Load the washing machine with 100kg garment.

Load the washing with water at the liquor ratio 1:5 (500L).

Start the machine running.

Add softener to the liquor at the rate of 0.5% (500 gm).

Continue process for 10 min.

Drop the liquor.

6^th step (Hydro extraction)

After drop the liquor the washed garment turn to hydro extractor to remove excess water from the garment.

7^th step(drying)

After hydro extracted the garments turns to drying machine for better drying.

Load 40 Kg garments.

Temperature-75° to 85°c.

Time – 35 to 40 minutes in hot dry, 10 minutes in cold dry.

After dryer the garments to the quality section for quality checking then ready for the delivery.

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What are the new Incoterms for 2020?

2021-11-26T00:42:00.000+06:00

INCOTERMS

Language is one of the most complex and important tools of International Trade. As in any complex and sophisticated business, small changes in wording can have a major impact on all aspects of a business agreement.

Word definitions often differ from industry to industry. This is especially true of global trade. Where such fundamental phrases as "delivery" can have a far different meaning in the business than in the rest of the world.

For business terminology to be effective, phrases must mean the same thing throughout the industry. That is why the International Chamber of Commerce created "INCOTERMS" in 1936. INCOTERMS are designed to create a bridge between different members of the industry by acting as a uniform language they can use.

Each INCOTERM refers to a type of agreement for the purchase and shipping of goods internationally. There are 11 different terms, each of which helps users deal with different situations involving the movement of goods. For example, the term FCA is often used with shipments involving Ro/Ro or container transport.

INCOTERMS also deal with the documentation required for global trade, specifying which parties are responsible for which documents. Determining the paperwork required to move a shipment is an important job, since requirements vary so much between countries. Two items, however, are standard: the commercial invoice and the packing list.

INCOTERMS were created primarily for people inside the world of global trade. Outsiders frequently find them difficult to understand. Seemingly common words such as "responsibility" and "delivery" have different meanings in global trade than they do in other situations.

In global trade, "delivery" refers to the seller fulfilling the obligation of the terms of sale or to completing a contractual obligation. "Delivery" can occur while the merchandise is on a vessel on the high seas and the parties involved are thousands of miles from the goods. In the end, however, the terms wind up boiling down to a few basic specifics:

Costs: who is responsible for the expenses involved in a shipment at a given point in the shipment's journey?
Control: who owns the goods at a given point in the journey?
Liability: who is responsible for paying damage to goods at a given point in a shipment's transit?

INCOTERMS 2020 V/S INCOTERMS 2010

# TWO KEY CHANGES IN INCOTERMS 2020-

DAT (Delivered at Terminal) is renamed as Delivery at Place Unloaded (DPU)
FCA (Free Carrier) Now allows for Bills of Lading to be issued after loading.

# OTHER CHANGES-

CIF and CIP have set out new standard insurance arrangements.
Cost Allocation between buyer and seller is stated more precisely.
FCA, DAP, DUP and DDP now take account of buyer and seller arranging their own transport rather than using a third party.
Security-related obligations are now more prominent.
Explanatory notes for Users for each incoterm have replaced the 2010 edition’s Guidance Notes.
CIP now requires as default insurance coverage ICC A or equivalent. It was ICC C under Incoterms 2010.

Incoterms 2020

EXW (EX-Works):

One of the simplest and most basic shipment arrangements places the minimum responsibility on the seller with greater responsibility on the buyer. In an EX-Works transaction, goods are basically made available for pickup at the shipper/seller's factory or warehouse and "delivery" is accomplished when the merchandise is released to the consignee's freight forwarder. The buyer is responsible for making arrangements with their forwarder for insurance, export clearance and handling all other paperwork.

· Any mode of transport.

· Seller’s Obligations:

· Complete goods when promised.

· Package goods as agreed, create commercial invoice, quality control and markings.

· Make goods available at named place (may or may not be seller’s premises)

· Loading is not required by seller but can be specified.

· Buyer has all the control.

· Obligation, Risk, Cost.

EXW (Ex-Work)

FOB (Free On Board):

One of the most commonly used-and misused-terms, FOB means that the shipper/seller uses his freight forwarder to move the merchandise to the port or designated point of origin. Though frequently used to describe inland movement of cargo, FOB specifically refers to ocean or inland waterway transportation of goods. "Delivery" is accomplished when the shipper/seller releases the goods to the buyer's forwarder. The buyer's responsibility for insurance and transportation begins at the same moment.

FOB (Free On Board)

FCA (Free Carrier):

In this type of transaction, the seller is responsible for arranging transportation, but he is acting at the risk and the expense of the buyer. Where in FOB the freight forwarder or carrier is the choice of the buyer, in FCA the seller chooses and works with the freight forwarder or the carrier. "Delivery" is accomplished at a predetermined port or destination point and the buyer is responsible for Insurance.

FCA (Free Carrier)

FAS (Free Alongside Ship):

In these transactions, the buyer bears all the transportation costs and the risk of loss of goods. FAS requires the shipper/seller to clear goods for export, which is a reversal from past practices. Companies selling on these terms will ordinarily use their freight forwarder to clear the goods for export. "Delivery" is accomplished when the goods are turned over to the Buyers Forwarder for insurance and transportation.

FAS (Free Alongside Ship)

CFR (Cost and Freight):

This term formerly known as CNF (C&F) defines two distinct and separate responsibilities-one is dealing with the actual cost of merchandise "C" and the other "F" refers to the freight charges to a predetermined destination point. It is the shipper/seller's responsibility to get goods from their door to the port of destination. "Delivery" is accomplished at this time. It is the buyer's responsibility to cover insurance from the port of origin or port of shipment to buyer's door. Given that the shipper is responsible for transportation, the shipper also chooses the forwarder.

CFR (Cost and Freight)

CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight):

This arrangement similar to CFR, but instead of the buyer insuring the goods for the maritime phase of the voyage, the shipper/seller will insure the merchandise. In this arrangement, the seller usually chooses the forwarder. "Delivery" as above, is accomplished at the port of destination.

CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight)

CPT (Carriage Paid To):

In CPT transactions the shipper/seller has the same obligations found with CIF, with the addition that the seller has to buy cargo insurance, naming the buyer as the insured while the goods are in transit.

CPT (Carriage Paid To)

CIP (Carriage and Insurance Paid To):

This term is primarily used for multimodal transport. Because it relies on the carrier's insurance, the shipper/seller is only required to purchase minimum coverage. When this particular agreement is in force, Freight Forwarders often act in effect, as carriers. The buyer's insurance is effective when the goods are turned over to the Forwarder.

CIP (Carriage and Insurance Paid To)

DAT (Delivered At Terminal) Right Now DPU (Delivered at Place Unloaded Place):

This term is used for any type of shipments. The shipper/seller pays for carriage to the terminal, except for costs related to import clearance, and assumes all risks up to the point that the goods are unloaded at the terminal.

DAT/DPU

DAP (Delivered At Place):

DAP term is used for any type of shipments. The shipper/seller pays for carriage to the named place, except for costs related to import clearance, and assumes all risks prior to the point that the goods are ready for unloading by the buyer.

DAP (Delivered At Place)

DDP (Delivered Duty Paid):

DDP term tend to be used in intermodal or courier-type shipments. Whereby, the shipper/seller is responsible for dealing with all the tasks involved in moving goods from the manufacturing plant to the buyer/consignee's door. It is the shipper/seller's responsibility to insure the goods and absorb all costs and risks including the payment of duty and fees.

DDP (Delivered Duty Paid)

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Hole Button Attachment Machine.

2021-11-24T12:21:00.000+06:00

More advance, More Innovation.
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2021-11-20T13:18:00.003+06:00

MODEL: SG-5H00H

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Twin Needle Feed Off the Arm Double Chain Stitcher (DA-927A)

2021-11-09T12:53:00.001+06:00

DA-927A:
DA-927A

Twin Needle Feed Off the Arm Double Chain Stitcher, For details your can visit > SOUERCE

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Diwali, Christmas demand pushes up sweets, garments export orders

2021-10-20T17:05:00.000+06:00

Exporters said most of the demand is coming from the US, where Covid-19 cases have declined and economic activity is picking up faster than in the UK and the European Union. "This is a festive season and there has been an average surge in the demand to the tune of more than 15% compared to the previous months, last year.

Export orders for food, handicraft and readymade garments have risen at least 15% year-on-year owing to the upcoming festival season in the United States and a higher demand for Indian sweets and snacks during Diwali, said traders.

The overall snacks, sweets and confectionaries segment has seen a 4-5% increase in export orders, they said.

“Lifestyle products, textile, leather, handicraft and carpets are the goods that are most sought after during this period and there is strong order booking of above 20% in volume terms in some of them compared to last year,” said Ajay Sahai, director general, Federation of Indian Export Organisations.

The increase could be 40% in value terms.

India’s merchandise exports in the April-September period amounted to $197.89 billion.

Exporters said most of the demand is coming from the US, where Covid-19 cases have declined and economic activity is picking up faster than in the UK and the European Union.

“This is a festive season and there has been an average surge in the demand to the tune of more than 15% compared to the previous months, last year. The order books are full for the value-added high-end products in the food and beverages sector,” said Mohit Singla, chairman, Trade Promotion Council of India.

He said Diwali is a crucial time when food and beverage exports pick up.

“There is a marginal 2-3% increase compared to 2019 and brands are asking for quick delivery as consumers have begun spending,” said Rafeeque Ahmed, chairman of Chennai-based Farida Group.

The company is among India's largest shoe manufacturers and exporters, and is a vendor to foreign brands such as Adidas, Clarks, Marks & Spencer, Debenhams and Bally Shoes.

However, much of the increase in export orders can be attributed to pent-up demand, according to exporters. Since stocks were low earlier, even a slight movement in demand looks like a huge jump, they said.

“Exports to the US are growing compared to the UK and overall, there is a 15-20% rise in export orders. Stores abroad expect good Christmas and holiday sales this time. The Middle East market too is coming up because of the sales happening in Expo 2020 in Dubai,” said Rakesh Kumar, director general, Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts.

He said there is high demand for décor items while fashion jewellery and furnishing are yet to see a pickup.

However, an increase in ocean freight and manufacturing costs due to higher energy and metal prices has squeezed profit margins, said exporters.

“The US is doing better than the UK and EU. There is a 15-20% rise in orders especially from mid-fashion brands than the high-fashion ones,” said A Sakthivel, chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council.

The US banning the entry of all products using cotton from China’s Xinjiang region and high prices of raw material there due to power crisis have made buyers turn to India, said exporters.

SOURCE

HOW TO CALCULATED THE SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION

2021-10-19T01:31:00.000+06:00

THE SEWING THREAD CONSUMPTION DETAILS AS BELOW:

The quantity of thread that will be required for sewing a garment is called sewing thread consumption for that garment. It is generally expressed in length. To find out the consumption of thread for production of garment is very much important, because for determination of costing of garments, need to know or to find out the consumption of thread.

Actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on the following factors.

Stitch Classes
Stitches per inches (SPI)
The thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
Thread tension
Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)

So you are suggested to calculate garment thread consumption by your own. You can develop a multiplying factor according to your product categories and requirement using the following steps.

Thread Consumption Ratio for Various stitch Types:

Class	Type of Stitch	Thread Ratio (cm)	No. Of Needles	Needle Thread (%)	Looper Thread (%)
301	Lock Stitch	2.5	1	50	50
101	Chain Stitch	4.0	1	100	0
401	Two Thread Chain Stitch	5.5	1	25	75
304	Zigzag Lock Stitch	7.0	1	50	50
503	Two Thread Over edge Stitch	12.0	1	55	45
504	Three Thread Over edge Stitch	14.0	1	20	80
512	Four Thread Mock Safety Stitch	18.0	2	25	75
516	Five Thread Safety Stitch	20.0	2	20	80
406	Three Thread Covering Stitch	18.0	2	30	70
602	Four Thread Covering Stitch	25.0	2	20	80
605	Five Thread Covering Stitch	28.0	3	30	70

STITCH CLASS	FORMULA	REMARK
301	C = (2N + 2T) x S	N= Length of Each Stitch
101	C = (3N + 2T) x S	T = Thickness of Fabric or Seam
401	C = (4N + 2T) x S	S = The Number of Stitches Per Inch (SPI)
304		C = Thread Consumption for Each inch of Seam
503		W = Seam Width
504	C = (3N + 4W +4T) x S
512
516	C = 2S(2W+3T) + 9
406	C = (7N + 2S)(T+W)
602	C = (8N+S)(5W+4T)
605	C = (10N+2S)(2W+3T)

2^ND AND EASY WAY TO CALCULATION OF THREAD CONSUMPTION:

Machine Wise Per Inch Sewing Thread Required as below-

5 Thread O/L # 1 Inch = 24 Inch Thread Need

3 Thread O/L # 1 Inch = 14 Inch Thread Need

4 Thread O/L # 1 Inch = 22 Inch Thread Need

Lock Stitch Plain Machine (1 Needle) 1 Inch = 3 Inch Thread Need (Both Top + Bobbin)

Lock Stitch Plain Machine (2 Needle) 1 Inch = 6 Inch Thread Need (Both Top + Bobbin)

Fit of the Arm Chine Stitch 1 Inch = 9 Inch Thread Need (Both Top + Bobbin)

Flat Lock Machine (4 Thread) per inch = 22 Inch Thread need

Flat Lock Machine (3 Thread) per inch = 17 Inch Thread need

Bar tack 1/2 Inch = 17 Inch Thread Need

Hole Eyelet 1 Inch = 22 Inch Thread Need (Both Top + Bobbin)

FOR EXAMPLE:

SEWING THREAD CALCULATION FOR T-SHIRT AS BELOW-

THE BELOW POINT NEED TO MAKE BY 4 THREAD OVER LOCK MACHINE-

SHOULDER JOIN MEASUREMENT = 21 CM

NECK JOIN MEASUREMENT = 60 CM

SLEEVE JOIN MEASUREMENT = 104 CM

SIDE JOIN MEASUREMENT = 66 CM

TOTAL MEASUREMENT WITH 4 THREAD OVER LOCK MACHINE= 251 CM

THE BELOW POINT NEED TO MAKE BY FLAT LOCK MACHINE-

SLEEVE HEM = 68 CM

BODY HEM = 96 CM

BACK TAP PIPING & T/S = 46 CM

FRONT NECK TOP STITCH = 36 CM

TOTAL MEASUREMENT WITH FLAT LOCK MACHINE = 246 CM

THE BELOW POINT NEED TO MAKE BY PLAIN MACHINE/LOCK STITCH

LABEL STITCHING = 5 CM

NECK RIB STITCHING = 5 CM

TOTAL MEASUREMENT WITH PLAIN MACHINE= 10 CM

Single Needle Lock Stitch (Plain Machine) = 10/2.54 (Here Note- 1 inch = 2.54 cm)

= 3.94 Inch X 3 (Lock Stitch Plain Machine (1 Needle) 1 Inch = 3 Inch Thread Need See The Above in Blue) = 11.82 Inch

4 Thread Over Lock Machine = 251/2.54 = 98.82 X 22 = 2174 Inch

Flat Lock Machine (4 Thread) = 246 / 2.54 = 96.85 X 22 = 2131 Inch

TOTAL 11.82 + 2174 + 2131 = 4316.82/39.39 (Note: 1 Meter = 39.39 inch, Thread always calculated by meters)

= 109.60 MTR + 15%

= 126.04 MTR

(Generally 10% to 15% wastage of thread is added to the consumption derived. This wastage occurs due to shop-floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs, etc)

For betterunderstanding you can see the video

Average Sewing Thread Consumption:

The below table gives the average thread lengths consumed for different types of garments, drawn from our experience.

Items	Average Thread Consumption (Meter)
Blouse	120
Bra	55
Brief (Men's)	50
Business Suit trouser	300
Costume (2 pcs)	400
Jacket (Classic Nylon Padded)	500
Jacket (Denim )	450
Jacket (Twill)	450
Night Dress	200
Nylon Jogging Suit	500
Nylon Padded Jacket	350
Nylon Wind Breaker	300
Overall	400
Overall (Classic)	500
Pants (Denim 5 Pocket)	400
Pants (Long)	350
Pants (Long, Classic)	450
Panty	50
Payjama	200
Payjama Set	450
Polo shirt	180
Romper	350
Romper (Classic)	450
Sack coat/Blazer	190
Shirt (Woven, Classic Short sleeve)	150
Shirt (Woven, Classic,,Long sleeve)	175
Shirt (Woven, Full sleeve)	150
Shirt (Woven, Short sleeve)	125
Shorts	350
Shorts (Classic)	450
Skirt (Lined)	170
Skirt (Unlined)	110
Sweater	25
Sweat Shirt (Fleece)	280
Tank Top	50
T-shirt	125
Waist coat	70
Winter coat	265
Work Suit (2 pcs)	375

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Denim Dry Processes – Whiskering , Laser Whiskering , Hand Scraping, Grinding, Destroy, Overall Crinkle , 3D Crinkle

2021-10-14T17:31:00.002+06:00

What is dry process in denim?

Ø Denim dry process comes before wet process and it changes the visual appearance by mechanical process. The garment gets a nice look after dry process and also it adds value to the product. Fashionable garments are produced by the dry process.

Process sequence of denim dry process:

Ø Raw Garments > Whiskering > Hand Sand/Hand Scraping > Tagging > Washing (Wet/Chemical Process) > Hydro Extracting > Drying > Damages/Destroy > PP Spray > Grinding > Washing (Wet/Chemical Process) > Hydro Extracting > Drying > Finishing.

Denim Dry Processing – Basic know how:

Ø Hand Sand / Hand Scraping > Sand blasting > Whiskers > Chevrons > Knee Star / knee whiskers > Hot Spot > Tacking > Grinding > Damages / Destruction > PP Spray > PP Brush / towel > Patch / repair > Bleach spots > Resin application > Pigments & Local tint application etc.

1. Denim Hand Sand / Scraping:

Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it’s can be overall / global application as per Standard. Emery paper

HAND SAND/SCRAPING

is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above, higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment industry from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical it’s up to operators convenience) even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results. Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually. One garment must done by one operator only to have balance intensity on both the legs.

2. Sand Blasting:

SAND BLASTING

This process is isolated now a days due to health hazards & buyers do not like the results of sandblast because its covers the characteristics of fabric. This process being done by using different kind of sand blown to garments with air pressure to rub out the color.

3. Whiskers/ Moustaches , Chevron , Knee Star, Hot Spot:

On Denim, whiskers / Mustaches, Chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines / impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern available This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution placements & pattern must be marked on garments, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee which is made purposely to create used look & on knee area if any whiskers line are there, called knee star All above operations are carried out in width direction hence its appears intense than hand sand with less strokes, because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

WHISKERING BY PATTERN

Whisker can be made in different ways. But the top most ways are as follows.

By whiskering pattern
By Manual hand scrap.
By using laser Machine.

CHEVRON, KNEE STAR, HOT SPOT

LASER WHISKERING

4. Tacking & Grinding:

TACKING

Tacking: is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast (rigid & washed) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc. after completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening.

Grinding: is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.

GRINDING

5. Damages/Destruction:

DAMAGES

One of the most popular distressing effects currently, ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.

6. POTASSIUM PERMANGNATE SPRAY/RUB & BLEACH SPRAY:

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by spray gun or by towel dipped in to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.

PP SPRAY

The same way bleach solution also can be spray or rubbed on the garments on desired area. But this process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization.

There are many parameters needs to be taken into control for doing PP or Bleach spray. Spray gun pressure, width of spray, flow & way of spraying.

7. Patch & Repairs along with Bleach Spots:

These are totally manual processes to give uniqueness to Denim and to make it look VINTAGE. First cut or damage the units intestinally to desired area & then make hand repairs or machine repair to look natural. Diluted bleach can be used to spot the desired area followed by neutralization in wet process.

PATCH REPAIRS

These process are time consuming hence productivity is low & reproducibility is very difficult but similar aesthetics can be achieved.

When we talk about Vintage denim, every garment should look unique & not a photocopy. These garments are sold at very high prices so customer should have a feeling of uniqueness & feeling different from others. Vintage denim are signature/ autograph of a brand & its image.

8. Resin Application(3D Effect/3D Crinkle):

Resin (Formaldehyde free) being used for achieving 3D effect (3 Dimensional), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.
After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it, it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual If resin not cured properly, 3 D effect will not be permanent & can cause skin irritation/rashes to the wearer. Highly skilled operators needs to execute this process in order to get consistency & uniformity Whole garment can have crushed look by resin dip & crushed manually followed by oven curing. Silicone plays an important role in getting softer hand after oven Special streaky effect & Crackles also being done by applying resin on desired area followed by scraping & pp spray then neutralization.

3D CRINKLE

It is one of the important finishing treatment on denim garment which is applied after wet process. Bringing 3D effect on denim garments by treating with resins are called 3D crinkle. This process is done manually or semi automatically using resins like low formaldehyde or DMDHEU type resins which make crosslink’s between cellulosic bonds and when the fabric deforms or folds or losses its normal orientation , those chemicals prevents the transformation to normal position and that causes wrinkles or creases. Various supporting auxiliaries are used for better penetration of resins and softeners used for softness.

9. Pigments & Local Tint ( Staining) Application:

TINT PPPLICATION

Need to choose right color of pigment or tint with binder or fixer to apply locally on denim to get vintage look. This process also needs an artist to execute it nicely to merge the tint with ground indigo color & should not look too artificial. Pigments & Local tint also can be applied through spray gun or rubbing on desired area of denim garment. After application its must be cured in order to have permanent effect on jean As we can see from all the dry denim processes mentioned above, they are mainly manual processes. The quality of the worker can make or break the garment. Hence, great care has to be given to select the right personnel for these jobs.

10. Overall Crinkle:

OVERALL CRINKLE

The full garments is washed with resin and after hydro-extracting the full garments is dryed then special effect is produced. For the effect , the garment is tied with thread or net or rope which resin treatment. Overall crinkle is done the all types of fabrics like denim , twill , canvas , poplin , knit , viscose , nylon etc. This is done after all types of dry and wet process. This is very popular and widely used in denims now a days.

11. CREASE MARK:

CREASE MARK

IT’S A MECHANICAL PROCESS, IT PROCEED BY TAGGING MACHINE ON BY BIND THE ROPE.

SOME IMPORTANT GARMENT WASHING INTERVIEW QUESTIONS & ANSWERS.

2021-10-12T03:22:00.002+06:00

1. DEFINITION OF GARMENT WASHING.

The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfort ability and fashion of the garments is called garment washing. Depending on garments construction different type of washing process can be done-

Ø Twill/Canvas/Knitted/Corduroy- Normal Wash, Pigment Wash, Caustic Wash, Si Wash.

Ø Denim/Jeans/Gabardine- Enzyme Wash, Stone Wash, Bleach Wash, Acid Wash.

Ø Grey Fabric- Super White Wash.

2. 2. wRITE THE PURPOSE OF WASHING.

Ø Garment washing is the best touch of a garment.

Ø Same type of garments can produce several effects for several wash Like this:

Ø To create wash look appearance, seems the new touch of fashion.

Ø By the washing technique, faded/old, color or tinted affect.

Ø Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.p spoonzing etc.

Ø To reduce size materials that imports soft hand feels.

Ø To attraction the customers/buyer by different types of fashionable washing and market development.

Ø Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments.

Ø Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing.

3. WRITE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRY PROCESSING.

Ø Hand scrapping > 3D whiskering > Broken > Tagging > Wrinkle (Permanent & Overall) > Grinding (Hem, Pocket, Collar, Cuff) > Destroy > PP spray & PP sponging.

4. WRITE DIFFERENT TYPES OF WET PROCESSING.

Ø Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash > Pigment wash > Caustic wash > Enzyme wash > Stone wash > Stone enzyme wash > Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing (Dip Dyeing) > Super white wash > Bleach wash > Acid wash > Silicon wash.

5. WRITE THE MACHINE NAMES WHICH ARE USED IN WASHING PLANT.

Ø Sample washing machine (Horizontal/Vertical).

Ø Washing Machine.

Ø Hydro extractor machine.

Ø Dryer Machine.

Ø Chemical Mixture Machine.

Ø Industrial Oven.

Ø Boiler.

Ø Submersible Pump.

Ø Grinding Machine.

Ø Tagging Machine.

Ø Steam Chamber for Crinkle.

Ø E.T.P (Effluent Treatment Plant).

Ø Generator.

Ø Sand Blasting gun.

Ø Sand Blasting Chamber.

Ø Spray gun and Dummy.

Ø Screw Compressor.

6. WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF SILICON WASH?

Ø To give durable softness and elastic handle properties.

Ø To increase anti pilling affects, dimensional stability and tear resistance.

Ø To improve wear and easy care properties.

7. WRITE DIFFERENT BETWEEN NORMAL WASH AND SILICON WASH.

Normal wash

Silicon wash

To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

To give durable softness and elastic handle properties.

To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.

To increase anti pilling affects and dimensional stability.

For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.

To increase tear resistance property.

To achieve buyer washing standard.

To improve wear and easy care properties.

8. WRITE THE CHEMICALS NAME WHICH ARE USED FOR ENZYME WASH.

Ø Desizing agent > Detergent > Anti back staining agent > Acetic acid > Cationic softener > Chlorine bleach > Soda ash > Sodium hypo Sulfite > Sodium bi carbonate > Silicon.

9. WRITE THE CHEMICALS NAME WHICH ARE USED FOR SOFTNESS OF GARMENTS.

Ø Cationic softener > Silicon > Enzyme.

10. WRITE THE CHEMICALS NAME WHICH ARE USED FOR GOOD QUALITY HAND FEEL.

Ø Cationic softener > Silicon > Enzyme.

11. WHAT CHEMICAL USE IS FOR PROTECT STAINING/BLEEDING ON GARMENTS.

Ø Anti-back staining agent.

12. WHAT PROCESS IS DOING FOR REMOVE STARCH/SIZING MATERIALS FROM THE GARMENTS?

Ø Desizing process.

13. WHY ACETIC ACID IS USED IN ENZYME BATH?

Ø Acetic acid is used in enzyme bath to neutralize the garments from alkaline condition and to control the ph value of the bath.

Ø Then acid enzyme is given in enzyme wash.

14. WRITE DIFFERENT BETWEEN STEAM DRYER & GAS DRYER.

Steam dryer

Gas dryer

Low production rate.

High production rate.

Generally light garments, white coloured garments are dried.

Generally heavy garments are used for dry.

No risk of yellowish formation

May be form yellowish effect on the garments.

15. WHY CHLORINE BLEACH IS USE IN DENIM WET PROCESSING?

Ø Chlorine bleach is use in denim wet processing for the better bleach action on garments. Because we know that chlorine has strong bleaching power. So that it can easily create bleaching effect on garments.

16. WHAT CHEMICALS IS USE FOR NEUTRALIZATION OF CHLORINE BLEACH?

Ø Sodium hypo sulfite (Na₂S₂O₂).

17. WRITE THE MAIN 5 FUNCTIONS OF ENZYME WASH.

Ø Develop ‘’Bio-polishing’’ affect on denim in echo-friendly way.

Ø Enzyme improves the ‘’Anti-pilling’’ properties.

Ø It attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.

Ø It increases the color fastness and rubbing fastness properties.

Ø Achieve high-low abrasion to produce fading effect in sewing area.

18. WHAT IS THE ACTION OF ENZYME ON GARMENTS?

Ø It just hydrolysis the cellulose, first it attacks the projecting fiber then the yarn portion inside fabric and faded affect is produced.

Ø It reduces GSM of the garment.

Ø It produces buyer loving soft feel in use.

19. WHAT TYPES OF ENZYME USED IN BANGLADESH?

Ø Acid and neutral Enzymes Acid and neutral Enzymes.

20. WRITE DIFFERENT BETWEEN ACID ENZYME & NEUTRAL ENZYME.

Acid enzyme	Neutral enzyme
1) Acid enzyme colour is slightly brown.	1) Neutral enzyme is slightly white powder form.
2) ph =( 4.5 to 5.5)	2) ph= ( 6 to 7)
3) Temperature: (40-55)⁰ C	3) Temperature: (40-60)⁰C
4) Time: 25-50 min.	4) Time: 40-70 min.
5) More staining.	5) Less staining.

21. HOW CAN CONTROL THE PH VALUE IN GARMENTS?

Ø If garments in alkali media then we apply acid to control ph.

Ø If any garments in acetic media then we apply alkali to control ph.

Ø By using Buffer solution.

22. WHAT TYPES OF ENZYME SUITABLE FOR DARK SHADE ENZYME WASH OF DENIM LONG PANT & WHY?

Ø Neutral enzyme is used for Dark shade enzyme wash because it comes fading effect slowly.

23.WHAT TYPE OF ENZYME SUITABLE FOR MEDIUM/LIGHT SHADE ENZYME WASH OF DENIM SKIRT?

Ø Acid enzyme is used for medium /light shade Enzyme wash of denim skirt because it comes enzyme effect quickly than neutral enzyme.

24.WRITE DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING FAULTS.

Ø Color shade variation.

Ø Crease Marks.

Ø After wash hole.

Ø Very dark & very light.

Ø Bleach Spot.

Ø Bottom hem & course edge destroy.

Ø Running shading.

Ø Over blasting / low Blasting.

Ø Over grinding / low grinding.

Ø Bad smell due to poor neutralization.

Ø Poor hand feel

Ø To high hairiness.

Ø Poor brightness.

Ø High or low affect / abrasion on garments.

Ø Spot on garments.

Ø Out of range / level of ph value of garments.

25. WRITE MAIN PROCESS OF STONE ENZYME WASH FOR DENIM LONG PANT.

Ø Desizing > Wash 2 Times water > Enzyme > Wash 1 Time > ID Echo > Wash 1 Time > Send to PP > PP Neutral > ash 2 times > Bleach > Wash 1 time > Bleach Neutral > Wash 1 Time > Caustic > Ph control + Softener.

26. WRITE THE FUNCTION OF BELOW-

Ø ANTISTAIN: To protect the garment from staining , bleeding..

Ø DETERGENT: To remove dust, dirt and other impurities from the garments.

Ø POTASSIUM PER MANGANATE: After desizing it is sprayed in garments area. It helps for color. out from garment during Enzyme wash.

Ø MICRO EMULSION SOFTENER: To soft the garment and get better hand feel.

Ø HYDROGEN PER OXIDE: Enhances bleach to produce light shade.

Ø OPTICAL BRIGHTENER: For more whitening grey fabrics.

Ø DESIZING AGENT: Removes the sizing material from the garment.

27. WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT PUMIC STONE?

Ø When the impurities amount will be 10% of a pumic stone its density increases to 1 gm/cm^3. Then the stone will not float.

Ø Alternative of pumic stone: SYNTHETIC STONE.

Ø Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1

Ø Dia.of stone-1-7 cm

Ø Moisture content-less than 5%

Ø Surface properties-less than 5% fines.

Ø Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3

Ø Abrasion loss-35%

Ø Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.

Ø Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items.

28. WRITE THE APP. ENZYME & SILICON WASH CHARGE FOR TWILL MEN’S & BOY’S TROUSER SEPARATELY.

Ø Twill men’s for Enzyme u$ 2.5-3.00 / Doz. For boys trouser U$ (2.00-2.50)/Doz.

Ø For silicon wash twill men’s u$2.00-2.50/Doz and For boys trouser U$(1.50-2.00)/Doz.

29. DESCRIBE THE RISK/PROBLEM OF GAS DRYER.

Ø The temp of gas dryer can be increased suddenly and it also makes flame. So there have high risk to get damage of garments.

Ø If the temp of gas dryer is higher, then garments will also be destroyed or loss of strength.

Ø Sometime occurs yellowish effect on fabrics so avoided during white coloured garments drying.

30. IF INNER DRUM R.P.M OF WASHING M/C AND DRYER M/C IS TOO HIGH, WHAT TYPES OF EFFECT ON GARMENTS?

If inner drum r.p.m of washing machine is high then the garments attached with inner drum and with one another and their rotation be increase. As a result the garments become more compact and that’s why the chemical solution for washing machine and temp for dryer machine cannot work properly towards the garments.

31. WRITE THE NAME OF STEPS OF STONE ENZYME WASH PROCESS OF DENIM LONG PANT.

Ø Desizing > Hot wash > Enzyme wash > Bleaching > Neutral wash > Soft wash > Hydro extractor Machine > Drying > Delivery.

32. WRITE THE NAME OF STEPS OF ENZYME WASH PROCESS OF DENIM (DARK) ENZYME WASH PROCESS.

Ø Desizing > Enzyme > Softening > Hydro extractor Machine > Drying > Delivery.

33. WRITE THE FLOW CHART OF (MEDIUM) ENZYME WASH OF DENIM READYMADE GARMENTS.

Step 1: Desizing > Step 2: Enzyme wash > Step 3: Bleaching > Step 4: Neutralizing > Step 5: Softening > Step 6: Hydro Extractor > Step 7: Gas Dryer > Step 8: Delivery.

34.WRITE THE CHEMICAL NAME OF ACID WASH PROCESS.

Ø Desizing agent > Detergent > Potassium per manganate > Phosphoric acid > Meta bi sulfite > Acetic acid > Softener.

35. WRITE THE PRECAUTION OF ACID WASH.

Ø Maintain the stock solution properly constant when comes socking the stone.

Ø No water licks age in to the machine when treated pumic stone & garments in to the machine.

Ø Not excess load the garments in the Acid wash processing.

Ø Add some new stone after finishing on batch to maintain the volume for 2nd batch. It is a matter of experience.

36. WHAT TYPE OF DYES USED FOR TINTING OF READY MADE GARMENTS?

Ø Reactive Dye, Direct dye.

37. GENERALLY WHICH COLOR IS USED FOR TINTING?

Ø Orange (bright color), Yellow or Blue. Similar shade given colours.

38. WRITE THE MAIN TINTING PROCESS (DYEING) BY DIRECT DYES.

Step 1: Desizing: Batch size: 60pcs > Step 2: Enzyme wash > Step 3: Bleaching > Step 4: Neutral wash > Step 5: Tinting > Step 6: Drying.

39. WRITE THE MAIN TINTING PROCESS (DYEING) BY REACTIVE DYES.

Step 1: Desizing: Batch size: 60pcs > Step 2: Enzyme wash > Step 3: Bleaching > Step 4: Neutral wash > Step 5: Tinting > Step 6: Drying

40. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY PP SPRAY?

Ø By spray gun potassium permanganate is sprayed on garments surface.

Ø Chemical composition: 10g kmno4 in 1 litre solⁿ with 1% lubricant.

Ø After desizing pp is done then neutralized by oxalic acid.

Ø Very much body hazard.

Ø High production rate.

41.WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY PP SPONGING?

Ø Buyer recommended PP Sponging avoiding pp spray.

Ø But manufacturer ignored it because PP sponging has low production

Ø Manually by sponge potassium permanganate is get touched with garments before main enzyme wash and after Desizing and hot wash.

42.WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF PP SPRAY?

Ø To import smoggy faded effect in garments.

43.WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF PP SPONGING?

Ø To import fading effect in specific areas (Thigh, Bum, Knee) of garments as buyer recommended.

44. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY WHISKERING?

Ø It is known as CAT’s whisker, Moustache, Honeycomb.

Ø It’s another form that shows a worn effect but fashionable garments.

Steps of Whiskering:

Plot the design (buyer) on a tracing paper.
Transfer the design on ply wood.
Place the rubber sheet on ply wood as the design on ply wood.
Attach rubber with wood by gum to make the pattern.
Enter the pattern in front opening of pant.
Rub by emery paper (300,400,500) ppm

45. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY TAGGING?

Ø Tag the garments (before washing) import fashionable effect after washing.

Ø In high temperature process tag is done by knotting, high effect occur.

Ø In low temperature process tag is done by tag gun, less effect occur.

46. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY GRINDING?

Ø By grinding machine totally damaged the edge of pocket, hem.

47.WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY DESTROY?

Ø By destroy gun a little portion (small line/circle/shape) is damaged.

Ø After destroy ton can only see the weft (white) yarn portin.

Ø Very much experienced labour are required.

48.WHAT TYPES OF FABRICS ARE SUITABLE FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE?

Ø Dense woven fabrics normally (twill like DENIM, plain like BABY FROK)

Ø Single jersey (rare case).

49.WRITE THE CHEMICAL NAME FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE ON THE GARMENT.

Ø Stock solutions for Resin solution is 300g resin in 700L water.

Ø Wetting agent : 0.5% owf

Ø Resin : 6-10% owf

Ø Softener : 3-5% owf

Ø Water : 60-80 liters

50.WHAT IS THE STANDARD TEMPERATURE FOR PERMANENT CRINKLE ON THE OVEN?

Ø 160 ⁰C(std.) / 40 to 60 ⁰C (usual in HAMS).

51.WHAT IS THE STANDARD TIME IS REQUIRED FOR PERMANENT WRINKLE IN THE OVEN?

Ø 15 min (std.) /30 min (usual in HAMS).

Oven

Steam Chamber.

Crinkling.

52.WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY OVERALL CRINKLE?

Which type of crinkle is created through the hole garments but not permanently placed, that is called overall crinkle. Basis on area of crinkle the overall crinkle is determined. Overall crinkle is done in.

53.WHAT TYPES OF DYES ARE USED FOR 100% COTTON READYMADE GARMENTS?

Ø Vat dye(high cost, excellent fastness).

Ø Reactive dye(less cost. Good fastness).

Ø Indigo dye (better rubbing fastness).

Ø Disperse dye.

Ø Sulphur dye.

54.WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY READY FOR DYEING GARMENTS?

Ø RDG means which garments already Desized, Scoured, Bleached.

Ø Its colour is white. It is clean and ready to treat with dye.

55.WRITE THE MAIN/FIRST STEP OF READY FOR DYEING PROCESS.

Ø Good pretreatment (DESIZING).

56.WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY SUPER WHITE PROCESS?

Which washing process creates white garments made of cotton grey fabrics is called super white process, it just severely washed out the colour of garments by extreme bleach action then brightening the garments.

57.WRITE THE CHEMICAL NAMES WHICH ARE USED FOR SUPER WHITE PROCESS.

Ø Detergent > Caustic soda(COLD) > Soda ash > Hydrogen per oxide > Stabilizer > Acetic acid > Optical brightener agent.

58.WRITE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SAND BLASTING AND HANDS SCRAPING.

Sand Blasting	Hands Scraping
1) It is a mechanical process.	1) It is a semi-mechanical process.
2) Sand get friction with garments by gun	2) Friction is occurred by emery paper.
3) Effect sprayed into whole texture.	3) Effect occurs at surface of garments.
4) High production.	4) Less production.
5) Body hazard (silicosis).	5) Buyer recommended process.
6) Less yarn character.	6) More yarn texture.

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Washing Symbols & Care Instruction on Clothes Explained

2021-10-12T00:39:00.002+06:00

⃟ Washing Symbols & Care Instruction on Clothes Explained.

Care Symbol

Written Care Instruction

What Care Symbol and Instruction Mean

Machine Wash, Normal

Garment may be laundered through the use of hottest available water, detergent or soap, agitation and a machine designed for this purpose.

Machine Wash, Cold

Initial water temperature should not exceed 30C or 65 to 85F.

Machine Wash, Warm

Initial water temperature should not exceed 40C or 105F

Machine Wash, Hot

Initial water temperature should not exceed 50C or 120F

Machine Wash, Hot

Initial water temperature should not exceed 60C or 140F

Machine Wash, Hot

Initial water temperature should not exceed 70C or 160F

Machine Wash, Hot

Initial water temperature should not exceed 95C or 200F

Machine Wash Permanent Press

Garment may be machine laundered only on the setting designed to preserve Permanent Press with cool down or cold rinse prior to reduced spin.

Machine Wash, Gentle or Delicate

Garment may be machine laundered only on the setting designed for gentle agitation and/or reduced time for delicate items.

Hand Wash

Garment may be laundered through the use of water, detergent or soap and gentle hand manipulation.

Do Not Wash

Garment may not be safely laundered by any process. Normally accompanied by Dry Clean instructions.

Bleach When Needed

Any commercially available bleach product may be used in the laundering process.

Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed

Only a non-chlorine, color-safe bleach may be used in the laundering process. Chlorine bleach may not be used.

Do Not Bleach

No bleach product may be used. The garment is not colorfast or structurally able to withstand any bleach.

Tumble Dry, Normal

A machine dryer may be regularly used at the hottest available temperature setting.

Tumble Dry, Normal, Low Heat

A machine dryer may be regularly used at a maximum of Low Heat setting.

Tumble Dry, Normal, Medium Heat

A machine dryer may be regularly used at a maximum of Medium Heat setting.

Tumble Dry, Normal, High Heat

A machine dryer may be regularly used at a High Heat setting.

Tumble Dry, Normal, No Heat

A machine dryer may be regularly used only at No Heat or Air Only setting.

Tumble Dry, Permanent Press

A machine dryer may be regularly used only at the Permanent Press setting.

Tumble Dry, Gentle

A machine dryer may be regularly used only at the Gentle setting.

Do Not Tumble Dry

A machine dryer may not be used. Usually accompanied by an alternate drying method symbol.

Do Not Dry

A machine dryer may not be used. Usually accompanied by an alternate drying method symbol.

Line Dry

Hang damp garment from line or bar, in or out doors.

Drip Dry

Hang dripping wet garment from line or bar, in or out doors, without hand shaping or smoothing.

Dry Flat

Lay out horizontally for drying.

Dry In Shade

Usually added to Line or Drip Dry. Dry away from direct sunlight.

Do Not Wring

Do Not Wring.

Iron, Any Temperature, Steam or Dry

Regular ironing may be needed and may be performed at any available temperature with or without steam is acceptable.

Iron, Low

Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be performed at Low setting (110C, 230F) only.

Iron, Medium

Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be performed at Medium setting (150C, 300F).

Iron, High

Regular ironing, steam or dry, may be performed at High setting (200C, 290F).

Do Not Steam

Steam ironing will harm garment, but regular dry ironing at indicated temperature setting is acceptable.

Do Not Iron

Item may not be smoothed or finished with an iron.

Dry clean

Dry Clean, any solvent, any cycle any moisture, any heat.

Dry clean, Any Solvent

Dry Clean, any solvent. Usually used with other restrictions on proper dry cleaning procedure.

Dry clean, Petroleum Solvent Only

Dry Clean using only petroleum solvent. Usually used with other restrictions.

Dry clean, Any Solvent Except Trichloroethylene

Any dry cleaning solvent other than trichloroethylene may be safely used.

Dry clean, Short Cycle

May be used with A, P, or F solvent restriction.

Dry clean, Reduced Moisture

May be used with A, P, or F solvent restriction.

Dry clean, Low Heat.

May be used with A, P, or F solvent restriction.

Dry clean, No Steam

May be used with A, P, or F solvent restriction.

Do Not Dry clean

Garment may not be commercially dry cleaned.

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Single Needle Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

2021-10-07T00:25:00.001+06:00

NEXIO S-7300A

Single Needle Direct Drive Lock Stitcher with Electronic Feeding System and Thread Trimmer

・Enhances productivity and quality sewing by DigiFlex Feed
・Needle breakage, material slippage, and puckering prevention
・Reduction of disposition of thread ends
・Offers a new value with Design Stitch
・Clogging at cross-over seam reduction
・Equipped the color LCD touch panel for intuitive operation
・Enhances the operability with new Hand Switch

Overseas workers only way to solve shortages, says Next boss

2021-10-07T00:16:00.004+06:00

Overseas workers only way to solve shortages, says Next boss

Next chief executive Lord Wolfson has said labour shortages could be solved by companies hiring overseas workers and paying a "visa tax".

Staff were not available in the places needed and seasonal workers were difficult to recruit, he told the BBC's Today programme.

Next has warned warehouse and logistics staffing is under pressure.

The comments are the latest in exchanges between the pro-Brexit Tory peer and Prime Minister Boris Johnson.

Mr Johnson said Lord Wolfson "doesn't want any kind of control or restraint on the number of people that he can access from abroad to run his business".

But in response, Lord Wolfson said this was "absolutely not" the case.

Lord Wolfson suggested businesses could get visas for skills they "desperately need" and recommended that they should have to pay UK workers the same amount as overseas workers. To make this competitive, he argued businesses should have to pay a "visa tax on top - lets say 7% of wages".

"We need to design a system that delivers the skills but at the same time makes sure UK workers are not deprived of opportunities that they might want," he said.

He added that this solution would "ensure people are not being brought into the UK to undercut UK workers because they will always be more expensive and it provides the skills Britain desperately needs to keep its industry moving".

He suggested that only UK businesses should be able to apply for these visas, rather than workers, and that it should not cost the employers more than recruiting in the UK.

The retail chain currently pays store sales consultants and stock assistants between £6.55 to £9.21 an hour and warehouse operatives between £9.30 and £11.26 an hour.

At Next, Lord Wolfson said that warehouse wages had gone up by around 60% in the last 10 years and 70% for Christmas wages, and added that "wages have already gone up significantly".

But, he said the firm was still finding that there were not enough workers in particular areas who wanted to move for short periods of time.

Price rises

Last week, Next warned of price rises and staff shortages before Christmas unless immigration rules were eased.

It also said higher shipping costs, particularly for larger furniture items, were pushing up its prices.

The company's warning over potential staffing issues during the festive period was made in its half-year results, which showed profit before tax was up by 5.9% compared to 2019 levels.

The firm said rising shipping costs had driven up prices by about 2%, with its larger home products "bearing the brunt of the increase".

It added that in the first half of next year, it expected prices to increase by an average 2.5%, with homeware prices up 6%.

SOURCE

LEFT HAND TWILL (LHT) & RIGHT HAND TWILL (RHT)

2021-09-19T00:03:00.004+06:00

TWILL WEAVE: RIGHT AND LEFT HAND TWILL LINE:

RHT & LHT TWILL

Right hand twill (RHT):Is the most common and can be easily identified by the diagonal pattern that moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right. This style was made also famous by Levi's and has become the industry standard amongst many denim producers.

Right hand twill, or “Z-twill”, has a flatter and smoother surface than the other types of twill. One differentiating characteristic is how much tighter and compact the RHT is due to being woven with S-twist yarn; which is spun counterclockwise, and creates more defined fades.

Left hand twill (LHT) or “S-twill”, is woven in the exact opposite direction as RHT, starting from the bottom right and moving up to the top left of the fabric.

Denim powerhouse, Lee, originally used LHT, which has an even softer feel than right hand twill because it is woven with Z-twist yarn, which is spun clockwise. If a left hand twill denim is worn heavily over a period of time, the end results typically carry fuzzy, vertical fading.

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Flow Chart of Wet Process in Garments Washing:

2021-09-18T23:57:00.003+06:00

WASHING

Wet Process/Chemical Process:

Wet Process

Wet process is the main treatment for any types of garments washing. Wet process can be done by using different types of chemicals. Wet process section maintains a process flow chart, which facilitate the whole garments washing processes and make easy to achieve desired garments shade.

Flow Chart of Wet Process in Garments Washing:

👉 De-size > Enzyme > Cleaning > Bleaching > Neutralize > Extracting > Drying > P.P Neutralize > Tinting > Softening > Extracting > Drying

All the above processes are discussed in the following table:

SL No.	Process	Procedure
01	De-size	It is the first process of wet process section in garments washing. Here, de-sizing process is done by using de-size chemical to remove size material from the garments.
02	Enzyme	To match with the desired shade, here enzyme process is done by using Acid or Neutral enzyme. Enzyme process can be medium enzyme, light enzyme, heavy enzyme or stone enzyme.
03	Cleaning	After completing enzyme process, garments are cleaned here by rinsing 2-3times.
04	Bleaching	Here, color can be removed uniformly from the garments and removal of color is done according to the buyer approved shade. Bleaching can be done by using K.C.I bleach or Japanese Bleach.
05	Neutralize	Bleaching chemical must be neutralize here by using Sodium meta-bi-sulphite or sodium hypo.
06	Extracting	After completing all the above processes, garments are unloaded from the machine and extracted by using hydro extractor machine.
07	Drying	Garments are dried here by using gas dryer or steam dryer. Types of dryer selection depends on the desired shade. Here, it should be noted that, gas dryer is perfect for reddish shade and steam dryer is for bluish shade. After drying, all the garments should be sent to the dry process section for P.P spray.
08	P.P Neutralize	Here, P.P sprayed garments are neutralized by using sodium meta bi-sulphite.
09	Tinting	Tinting is normally used for increasing the attractiveness of garments. Sometimes tinting is needed for matching with the desired shade.
10	Softening	This process is done for increasing softness effect of garments. Softening can be done by using cationic or non ionic softener.
11	Extracting	Finally garments are unloaded from the machine and extracting by using hydro extractor.
12	Drying	Here, garments are dried by using gas or steam dryer.

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What is garment testing?

2021-09-18T00:47:00.004+06:00

Lab Testing-

Consumer goods are subject to a various legal regulations and standards. While these are designed to help ensure the safety of the consumer, they can be confusing and hard to stay abreast of. You can rely on the expertise and technical resources of HQTS to help ensure your compliance with relevant regulations, as well as your own technical specifications.

Testing is important, mainly for customer satisfaction of the textile product as well as to ensure product quality for the market in which the textile manufacturer competes. Testing is also important in order to control the manufacturing process and cost.

Here 2 types of test we have to do as below-

(A) Mechanical Test.

1. Fabric Composition.

2. Dimensional Stability after wash- (-) Sign for shrinkage & (+) Sign for extension of garments measurements.

3. Appearance After wash- Garments should be laid 3hrs under 8 LBS pressure. Checking overall appearance of the garments like pilling, fuzzing, seam puckering, accessories, body fabric, deterioration of print, broken stitch, rating of color change & staining, like color change, staining on acetate. Cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, wool. Grey scale rating is based on the 5-step of 1 to 5 where 1 is bad and 5 is good.

4. Pilling Resistance (Not for denim and corduroy): Pilling Standard- 3-4 grey scale matching, A pill, colloquially known as a bobble, is a small ball of fibers that forms on a piece of cloth. 'Pill' is also a verb for the formation of such balls. Pilling is the formation of fuzzy balls of fiber on the surface of a fabric that remain attached to the fabric. ISO-12945-2:2000 Martindale Method with 415g loading mass, 200 cycles:
Grade 5 – no change
Grade 4 – slight surface fuzzing
Grade 3 – moderate surface pilling. Pills of varying size and density partially covering the surface
Grade 2 – distinct surface piling. Pills of various size and density covering a large proportion of the surface
Grade 1 – severe pilling covering whole of the fabric surface.

5. Seam Strength & Seam Slippage- (Not for elastic fabric)- Type of machine used: CRE

Both the parameters measure the performance of seam. Seam strength refers to the strength when seam finally ruptures or when the fabric breaks. However before rupturing there is an unacceptable opening in the seam which makes the seam 'failed' commercially even when there is no visible rupture. Seam slippage measures that Seam strength depends upon stitch type, thread strength, stitches per inch, thread tension, seam type and seam efficiency of the material Seam slippage depends upon the stitch rate, the weave structure of the fabric and the width of the seam allowance There is another term called 'yarn slippage' which measures the shifting of warp yarn over weft yarn to render the garment unusable. Yarn slippage depends upon a low number of warp or filling yarn, two shallow seam allowance, too tight a fit and improper seam construction.

6. Abrasion Resistance (Not for denim): Yarn break (30000 RUBS) & Shade change (5000 RUBS)

7. Tensile Strength (Not for elastic fabric)- Warp & Weft strength check by CRE machine, weight will be KG like 22kg.

8. Color Fastness To Water- Rating of color change & staining, grey scale rating is based on the 5 step scale of 1 of 5, where 1 is bad and 5 is good.

9. Color Fastness To Light- A fabric’s degree of resistance to the fading effect of light Colorfastness to light is a measure of how permanent a color is on fabric after exposure to light. Both natural and synthetic fabrics are subject to discoloration under UV rays (sunlight) and fluorescent light In the test method ISO-105-B02 the tested sample is exposed to the influence of the light of a xenon lamp under certain conditions. Light fastness grading is determined by comparing the level of color loss of the tested sample with blue standards. For example, grade 5 means that the characteristics of color fastness of the tested sample are similar to the characteristics of the blue standard 5 Grade 5 – no fading, Grade 4 – slight fading, Grade 1 – high degree of fading Upholstery fabrics should have a minimum rating of 4 regardless of end use. Adorn upholstery fabrics have a rating of 4-5.

10. Color Fastness To Perspiration- Resistance to color change due to perspiration.ISO-105-E104:1994 determines resistance to color change due to acidic or alkaline perspiration.
Grade 5 – no color change
Grade 1 – high degree of color change, Adorn upholstery fabrics have a rating of 4-5.

11. Color Fastness To Rubbing ( Dry staining & Wet staining)- Transfer of color from the surface of a colored fabric onto another surface by rubbing or repeated contact Test method ISO-105×12:2001 uses a standard white cotton fabric in both dry and wet state that is rubbed against the surface of the test fabric. After rubbing under controlled pressure for a specific number of times the amount of color transferred to the white test squares is compared to a color chart and a rating is established. Grade 5 – no color transfer Grade 1 – high degree of color transfer For upholstery fabrics ACT guidelines recommend dry crocking Grade 4 minimum and wet crocking Grade 3 minimum. Adorn upholstery fabrics have a rating of 4-5 for both dry and wet crocking /rubbing.

12. Twisting

13. Fabric Weight

14. Elastic Behavior

15. Tear Strength

16. Odour Test (Only for China Order)- Smelling of mould, Smelling of high boiling point petroleum, Smelling of fish, Smelling of aromatic hydrocarbon

(B) Chemical Test:

1. Formaldehyde- Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable, strong-smelling chemical/gas that is used in building materials and to produce many household products. It is used in pressed-wood products, such as particleboard, plywood, and fiberboard; glues and adhesives; permanent-press fabrics; paper product coatings; and certain insulation materials. In addition, formaldehyde is commonly used as an industrial fungicide, germicide, and disinfectant, and as a preservative in mortuaries and medical laboratories. Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the environment. It is produced in small amounts by most living organisms as part of normal metabolic processes.

When formaldehyde is present in the air at levels exceeding 0.1 ppm, some individuals may experience adverse effects such as watery eyes; burning sensations in the eyes, nose, and throat, coughing; wheezing; nausea; and skin irritation & long-term exposure can lead to cancer. Some people are very sensitive to formaldehyde, whereas others have no reaction to the same level of exposure.

2. PH Value- PH is measure of the hydrogen ion concentration of a solution. A PH of 7 is neutral where less than 7 is acidic & more than 7 is basic.

3. AZO dye Stuff (24 amines)- Azo dye, any of a large class of synthetic organic dyes that contain nitrogen as the azo group −N=N− as part of their molecular structures; more than half the commercial dyes belong to this class. Depending on other chemical features, these dyes fall into several categories defined by the fibers for which they have affinity or by the methods by which they are applied.

The oldest methods for applying azo dyes to cotton involved successive treatments with solutions of two chemical components that react to form the dye within the fiber or on its surface. Dyes applied in this way are . (100 of 307 words)

4. Phenols (For Natural fiber and Leather)- Application of concentrated phenol to the skin can cause severe skin damage. Short-term exposure to high levels of phenol has caused irritation of the respiratory tract and muscle twitching in animals. Longer-term exposure to high levels of phenol caused damaged to the heart, kidneys, liver, and lungs in animals Phenol is a colorless-to-white solid when pure. Commercial phenol is a liquid that evaporates more slowly than water Phenol has a distinct odor that is sickeningly sweet and tarry.

5. Total Lead (For Scrapable print- Rubber Print, Water Print, Coating & Print)- Lead is a cumulative toxicant that affects multiple body systems and is particularly harmful to young children. Lead in the body is distributed to the brain, liver, kidney and bones. Lead in bone is released into blood during pregnancy and becomes a source of exposure to the developing fetus.

6. Total Cadmium (PU/PVC fabric & Rubber print, Water Print)- Effects of Cadmium Exposure. Cadmium is of no use to the human body and is toxic even at low levels. The negative effects of cadmium on the body are numerous and can impact nearly all systems in the body, including cardiovascular, reproductive, the kidneys, eyes, and even the brain.

Cadmium is a highly toxic substance, exposure to which can produce a wide range of health effects. Cadmium can replace zinc in the body and can bind strongly to certain biological systems, making it difficult to remove. It can build up in the kidneys and cause kidney damage. It is also been found to cause several types of cancer.

7. Carcinogenic Test- “The term carcinogen denotes a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances which induce cancer or increase its incidence” (UNECE, 2004, p. 167).Carcinogens are classified according to their mode of action as genotoxic or nongenotoxic carcinogens

8. Heavy Metals (Extractable)- Antimony, Arsenic, Barium, Cadmium, Chromium, Cobalt, Copper, Lead, Mercury, Nickel.

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IMPORT & EXPORT DOCUMENTATION & PROCEDURE.

2021-09-18T00:33:00.007+06:00

IMPORT DOCUMENTATION

Invoice copy:

Invoice is the seller’s bill for the goods sold by him.

It contains the name & address of the Exporter & Importer, Purchase order number/reference numbers, description of goods, price per unit, total value, the terms of sale and payment, B/L or AWB details, etc. This must be signed by the Exporter.

In case of LC import goods, the invoice must be endorsed by the respective negotiating bank.

Packing List:

This document is a consolidated statement of the total packages in the shipment containing details of packaging e.g. no of boxes/pallets/ units per box or pallet, the volume and weight of each package and the total volume and weight of the shipment. Ex: 4 corrugated boxes on 1 pallet/10 parts per box.

The consignor & consignee details terms of delivery and payment description of goods as per invoice.

Precautions must be taken to ensure that the details in the packing list adhere to that on the invoice and Bill of Lading.

Bill of Lading/AWB:

B/L in case of Sea shipment and airway bill (AWB) in case of air shipment.

This is a document issued by the shipping company or his agent, acknowledging the receipt of cargo on board.

This Bill of Lading is a very important documents in international trade as it is a documents of title of goods.

Cargo Arrival Notice (CAN):

It is the notice sent by a carrier or agent, to the consignee to inform the consignee about the arrival of the shipment.

It contains a number of packages, description of goods, their weight, and collection charges (if any)

It also indicates shipping line charges which are required for DO (Delivery Order)

Letter of Authority, in favor of custom house agent:

This is an authority letter given by the consignee to customs, indicating that they are authorizing a particular customs house agent (CHA) to clear their shipment from customs on their behalf.

EXPORT DOCUMENTATION & PROCEDURE

3 Slat of export documents-

For customer (Bank to Bank)

Bill of Exchange
Packing List
Commercial Invoice.
Bill of Lading
C/O as per LC terms
U.D – Utilization Declaration
GSP- Generalized System of Preference (If need) Right now only for European Union.
I/C- Inspection certificate as per LC terms

For Port (Bangladesh)

Packing List
Commercial Invoice
EXP

For Bank

The above all papers
Bill of entry (Issued by Bangladesh customs)

U.D- Utilization declaration:

Why need this? For export/import need to submit U.D to port.

Who giving this? BGMEA for an order like 100000pcs order BGMEA all materials declared on there U.D for export & import purpose.

B.L- Bill of Lading:

B/L issued by a carrier/forwarder to shipper/seller detailing the method and path of a shipment be it by any combination of Air, Sea, Road or Rail.

After get B.L from forwarder shipper need to submit there Bank, Bank will send to customer Bank, customer will collect for goods release. (Must be mentioned on the B.L like volume of packages, NCM (HS/Harmonized System code) of every product (It is a six-digit identification code), CNPJ (Tax ID number) of the importer, Gross weight, measurement, Freight amount, Product Description)

EXP- Export permission:

Bank will give this EXP. When need to get EXP from Bank, shipper need to fill up all details (Packing list, Invoice & H.S code etc) on there format.

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ST FASHION & TECHNOLOGY

We grew this factory

What is the transit time by sea?

Transit times means total amount of time (Hours/Days), how many hours/days need to arrive the goods from an origin point to their destination.

JOB RESPONSIBILITY OF PRODUCTION STAFF FOR RMG SECTOR.

Some Common Woven Fabric Composition & Construction with GSM

(A) SHEETING FABRIC:

(B) POPLIN FABRIC:

(C) POPLIN FABRIC:

(D) TWILL (SOLID) FABRIC:

(E) T/C CVC BLENDS (SOLID) FABRIC:

(F) STRIPE (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

(G) CHECK (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

(H) T/C & CVC (YARN DYED) FABRIC:

(I) PRINTED FABRIC:

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS FOR TEXTILE AND GARMENTS TECHNOLOGY.

(A)

(B)

(C)

(D)

(E)

(F)

(G)

(H)

(I)

(K)

(L)

(M)

(N)

(O)

(P)

(R)

(S)

(T)

(U)

(V)

(W)

(X)

What is the purpose of enzyme wash?

Mainly two types of Enzyme are used:

Object of Enzyme wash:

The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men’s long pants (Trouser) are described below:-

First step: Desizing

Second step: Enzyme

Third step: Softening

Fourth step: Hydro-extractor machine

Fifth step: Drying machine

Sixth step: Delivery

What is the acid wash?

ACID WASH:

Acid Wash of Denim Trouser:-

(A) First Step: Pretreatment/Desizing

(B) Second Step: Hot wash

(C) Third step: Wash for cleaning

(D) Fourth step: Whitening/Neutralization

(E) Fifth step: Soft wash

(F) Sixth step: Hydro-extractor machine

(G) Seventh step: Dryer machine

(H) Eighth step: Quality & Delivery

What is meant by acceptable quality level? (AQL Chart)

A.Q.L (Acceptable Quality Level):

What does AQL of 1.5, 2.5, 4 & 6.5 mean?

What is sample in garments industry?

Types of sample produce according to buyer demand:

There is various type of sample those are given below-

1. Original sample:

2. Counter sample:

3. Proto/ Develop/Fit sample:

4. Seal (Red or Gold) sample:

5. Size set sample:

7. Pre-production sample (PP):

8. Add sample:

9. Sales man sample (SMS):

10. Photo sample:

11. Shipment/ Reference sample:

13. Lab-test sample:

STONE WASH PROCESS

Washing procedure of stone wash.

1st step (Desizing i.c. Pretreatment.)

2nd step(hot wash)

1^st step (Desizing i.c. Pretreatment.)

2^nd step(hot wash)

3^rd step (stone wash)

4^th step (hot wash)

5^th step (Neutral wash)

6^th step (Hydro extraction)

7^th step(drying)

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DA-927A:
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