If your pond freezes enough in winter you can spread your lime right over the ice

If you own a pond, you know the importance of liming. And if you own a pond in the far north, you know the nuisance of seeing your pond turn into a Popsicle. However, your pond-turned-ice-skating-rink has a special benefit that no other region does: You can lime it without the hassle of distribution.

If you live up north, and your water has been acidic (below a pH of 7.5) or you have a low Total Alkalinity (below 100 ml/g), right now is the ideal time to lime.  Fostering overall pond and fish health, liming definitely supplies the “biggest bang for your buck” for any pond practice. (And I don’t even sell it, so I’m not just trying to sell you lime)

Crushed limestone is cheaper than dirt. It can be purchased in 40 – 50 lb. bags from your nearby farm supply store for about $3 or $4 a bag, and even less if bought in bulk (ideal for large ponds).  Buy crushed or pulverized limestone, not hydrated lime (hydrated lime can kill your fish)

What prevents most people from liming is:

• Weight:

o   You will need approximately one ton per acre (but check with your local Ag Extension Agent for the exact amount required for the soil under your pond)

o   If you have an acre pond, you can’t use your trusty ½ ton pickup truck, so you’ll need it delivered

o   One ton = 40 – 50 bags

• Distribution:

o   Lime can’t be dumped all in one spot. That’d be too easy. It must be distributed evenly throughout the bottom of your pond, just like you would lime a garden.

o   A small boat or barge (a kayak or canoe is not the boat for this!) will suffice for this task, if the weather is warmer, however…

o   If you live up north, you can simply walk across the ice, distributing as you go.  All you have to do is wait for the ice to melt and the lime to sink for the process to begin.  Easy as pie.

So, for all you northerners, your job has been made drastically easier. Finally, a good liming will last for several years.  And whoever thought you’d benefit from that big old ice cube on top your pond?

Sal: Nature's Own Medicinal

Grandma’s salty chicken soup helped you get over your cold. Gargling with salt water cures your sore throat. Salt sprays clear up your sinus infection. So why not use the healing power of salt as a therapeutic for your pond? Salt can be used many ways, and in both tanks and large ponds.  Its benefits include reducing fish stress, reducing nitrites, and treating pond parasites.

Some Tips about Salt:

•             Caution: Whenever used, salt should be dissolved in a bucket of pond water, and not added directly – undissolved salt can irritate fish gills and lead to injury or death

•             Iodized salt should never be used, as iodine is toxic to fish.

•             Be careful when adding any kind of salt to an aquatic tank, as it can have detrimental effect on plant life

•             Before adding salt to a tank, make sure to remove all zeolite products

•             After using a salt treatment, test the water for ammonia spikes with Microbe-Lift Ammonia Test Strips, as fish tend to excrete high levels of ammonia after exposure to salt.

•             Dosing:

o             Small tank: ½ cup of salt per 10 gallons of pond water

o             Large tank: 5 cups of salt per 100 gallons of pond water

o             Stress reduction: 2 and 1/2 cups per 100 gallons of pond water

•             As a topical treatment for sick fish:

o             Mix salt with tank water until it reaches a thick paste consistency

o             Use a new basting brush to apply to affected areas such as excessive slime or reddened spots on the head, back, or underbelly

o             Take caution applying around the eyes and gills

o             Dispose of or sterilize the basting brush when finished to avoid cross-contamination

•             Salt does not evaporate from tanks and must be removed by water changes.

Remember this and you’ll always be a step closer to a healthy, happy pond with healthy, happy fish.

The fish need highly oxygenated water quickly.

Do this by turning on a hose or any other water pump and spraying the water up in the air so it gets oxygenated then lands in the pond. If you have a waterfall or fountain, turn it on and leave it on until the crisis is past. Add Stresscoat if its on hand.

If the pond is a large earthen pond, use the biggest pump you can get your hands on and spray water over the pond.  If you do not have a second water source, its ok to pump the water from the pond.

THEN:

If it’s possible to also do a water change, do as deep a water change as you can.  If you are using chlorinated public water supply and do not have any dechlor handy, don’t change more than 10%.

If you are using groundwater or have dechlorinator handy, drain the pond down til the fish’s fins are starting to stick out of the water.  If your source of water is more than say 10 degrees different in temperature, so the water change over a several hour period.

If you have koi and  this is happening in the early spring, try to avoid netting and removing them from the pond unless you have another pond of better / safer water quality all ready for them to go into.  This time of year koi are just coming out of winter hibernation and their immune system is very fragile.  Netting and moving them would just add to their stress.

AFTER THAT:

Review site conditions and get some test kits to find out what caused the sudden loss of oxygen.

If its hot weather and there is excessive algae, plus the weather has been cloudy, dead organics are probably the culprit and added oxygen will be needed until this is digested.  For earthen ponds, consider getting a bottom aeration system.

The above type of oxygen problem usually does not develop in lined ponds with a 24/7 pumping/filtration system running.

In lined ponds the problem more likely is an unexpected sudden overload of nutrients from storm water runoff, grossly overfeeding by’ helpful’ visitors, or a fish disease/ parasite infestation.  Water changes will help the first two issues.  Close examination of the ailing and or dead fish, (post mortem) is  needed for the later problem.  Get professional help if you suspect a fish disease or parasite.  Look up your local koi club or consult one of the on line fish health sites such as KoiVet.com.

If you used too much  Algaway 5.4 or AlgaeFix for the size of the pond and /or you did not keep your waterfall/filtration system going, this can lead to oxygen depletion.

If you had a massive algae bloom and treated it all at one time with any algaecide, the dieing algae can consume all the oxygen.

So, there can be many reasons why you had the problem and once you get past the crisis you can take the time to find out why it happened and how to prevent it from reoccurring.

But your first priority is to get some oxygenated water going to buy you some time until you can solve the underlying problem and the hose sprayed in the air over the pond will do just that.

Winter algae can begin to appear when the water reaches 45 degrees.  But, the beneficial bacterias that fight algae do not become effective until the water reaches 50 degrees.  In that 45 to 50 degree temperature range, the algae grows freely.  In warmer waters, the bacteria in the bio filter, the cultured bacteria such as Microbelift PL and PBL and the natural barley straw, do a great job.  But at these low temperatures, only the low temp bacteria such as Microbelift Autumn Winter Prep are active.

Many people resort to an emergency first aid for the algae by using algacides.  Hopefully they at least use the environmentally friendly algacides such as Green Clean and Algaway 5.4.    In warm water Green Clean usually works over night and Algaway 5.4 works within 2 to 3 days.  Results are frequently not as stellar in cold water. Why?

Why indeed?  Think of it this way.  If you go out to your garden in the summer and cut off lettuce, the cut lettuce is definitely dead.  Put the lettuce out in the sun on the picnic table and within hours it will wilt, turn brown and curl up, almost gone.  Now take that same piece of dead lettuce and put it in your refrigerator.  There, it is still dead, but it will stay green and crisp for several weeks.

So, even if you kill your winter algae in refrigerator cold water, it will still stay green and life like for several more weeks.

What to do?  One product that will block the growth of algae regardless of temperatures is Microbelift Barley Straw Extract. This works regardless of temperatures.  Another approach is pond dye.  Both Microbelift Bio Blue and Bio Black, added to the pond before the algae appear, will block algae growth.  The downside to the dyes is that they will also block your view of your fish.

There is an up side to winter filamentous algae.  Algae is a perfect spring food for your koi.  High in vitamins, low in hard to digest protein.  A true Popeye Spinach for your sleepy koi.  Later in the season they will turn up their noses at such fare.  But in the spring when they are very hungry, (and you are not yet feeding them, please) they will readily nibble algae.

Clean up pond side winter debris.

Those first few warm days at the end of winter are a good time to get started on a great pond season.  But  it is way to early to be working in the water where it will disturb the still sleeping koi.

This is a great time to rake up the late fall leaves and twigs.  I clean up most of the leaf fall in the Fall.  But, our willow tree holds its leaves late, and then drops them plus a zillion little twigs throughout the winter.  So in those first warm days, when I’m itching to get out there and get something done, I clean up this debris.

This helps the koi pond as it keeps the March winds from blowing debris into the pond where it only contributes to the ponds organic loading.  Those leaves that do get in, I will digest with Microbe-lift Spring Summer Cleaner once the water gets to 50 degrees.  But the willow twigs will need to be mechanically removed.  That means me wading waist deep into the water and collecting them with a grass rake.  Its an OK chore on a hot summer day.  Not something I want to do in cold water.  So, the less leaves and twigs that go into the pond, the easier all around.

So I do the late winter clean up and it has  become one of my savored rights of spring.  I rake then up and burn them in an old washtub placed on the the pea graveled shore.  I enjoy being outside after the long winter indoors.  And, the warmth of the little fire feels great.  Reminds me of camping.

Years ago that shallow pond had sunnies and a few juvenile bass.  We use to take our daughter there to fish back when she was 5 and loved to fish.  She caught a couple of little bass on spinner baits when she was just learning to cast.  Lucky girl.  She is 17 now and fishing is not cool. In dry years, it gets so shallow that the herons fish it out pretty well.  It had gotten quite shallow last summer in the drought, so I’m surprised there are any fish there at all this winter.

So, I’m pondering on this.  Does anybody you know ice fish in Maryland and if so where do they go, what bait do they use and what do they catch?  I’d like to give it a try next year if I could do so safely.

Sound Meter on my Droid

The Vertex Aerators are some of the most quiet on the market, but they do hum.  The statistics show that Vertex Aerators run around 60 decibels but what does that mean?  Well, its about the same loudness as normal conversation, but people don’t hum often so that is not very helpful.

Here is a great way to find out for yourself just how loud 60 decibels would be if you have a Droid phone.  My husband just showed me this App and it is so cool and its free.  It’s called ‘Sound Meter’ and the ‘lite ‘ version is a free download.  Just download this cool app and then walk around household appliances and you will get to sample what runs around 60 decibels.  Try it on your heat pump, they are usually just a little noisier than a Vertex.

Don’t do it.  Or put another way, don’t do it!  Mid winter feedings can pr0ve deadly. Sure its warm today.  Maybe spring is here early.  The groundhog did not see his shadow in PA this month.  But, its more than likely just a little teaser of spring to come.  Next week there could be a blizzard, or at least more of the same frigid weather we’ve been having since December.

If you feed your koi now, the food will be in their digestion system for several days.  If the weather turns cold again before it is completely digested, the digestive processes will grind to a halt.  There it will lie and molder, releasing toxins, until the weather again warms up.  This can be deadly for your fish.  And it will be a slow agonizing death.  Your fish will look normal until the pond warms up, then one by one they will sicken and some will die.  At that point it is generally too late to help them.

So, be mean, ignore the little beggars, do not feed them.  Let them graze the mid winter algae that has suddenly sprouted up in your pond.  That is a better safer course of action.  Resist feeding the little cuties until your water lilies start to grow and then just feed them cold water feeds that are high in wheat germ such as Microbelift Living Legacy Wheat Germ Feed.

A well-built, well installed aeration system should not be noisy, but even the great ones hum a little.  This blog addresses several things that can be done to quiet them to your liking.

1.      Buy a well-made system, such as a Vertex, that was made to mitigate sound naturally.

2.      Locate the compressor unit on a soft ground surface such as mulch that will absorb excess hum producing vibrations.  Avoid locating on a wooden or concrete surface, such as a patio or dock.  And, avoid locating it next to a wall that will echo the sound.  The Vertex system comes with its own preinstalled poly footing pad so it really can be just ‘plopped’ down on mulch, turf, or bare ground. (No additional footing needed).

3.      Locate the unit away from your sitting and activity areas if possible.  My Vertex Air 1 on my pond is located about 40 feet from my favorite chair.  I have to listen to see if I can hear it running, it is not intrusive at that distance. Instead all I hear is my little waterfall across the pond.

4.      Do not locate the unit in a building.  See my blog post on ‘Can I put my compressor in my tool shed?’

5.      If there is any rattling or obnoxious noises when the unit is first started up, check to see that all the bolts in the unit and its housing are tight as infrequently they may rattle loose in shipping. One loose bolt can make an inordinate amount of noise.

6.      Surround the unit with plush landscape material such as ornamental grasses.  The leaves and stems will blot up most if not the entire hum so that you cannot hear the unit even 20 feet away.  Just consider the mature size of the plantings such that they will always be at least 3 feet away from the cooling fans.  The goal is to minimize the sound without reducing air flow to the cooling fans.

7.      If these simple solutions aren’t practical in your location, another solution is to order the Vertex cabinet equipped with a sound kit.  These kits run around $200 to $250 and are factory installed when your order is assembled.

8.      Where all else fails, consider locating the compressor box at a distance from the pond and just running a 1” PVC airline down to a valve box at the shoreline where it will connect  to the bottomline tubing going out into the pond.  This configuration is done at the factory, taking the valve rail out of the main unit and placing it own separate brass ‘valve box’.  Aside from the cost of buying and trenching the 1” PVC, the add on equipment cost of this customization is normally under $100.  If you need to trench electric down to the site anyway, you could just as easily trench 1” PVC instead of electric line, allowing you to locate the compressor unit up where there is already an electrical receptacle.

Vertex Air One Plus for ponds to 2 acres

It seems like the logical thing to do – here you are, with your brand new Aerator system, wondering where and how you are going to shelter it. Naturally, you know that machinery that is kept under a roof and out of the elements lasts longer and performs better than machinery that is not.  However, in the case of an aerator compressor, it is a bit different. These systems need a constant supply of cool air to compress as well as a large exhaust system to take away excess heat from the compressors and manifolds. To do this, high-capacity cooling fans are used. By putting it in a shed, it restricts air both coming in and going out, and forcing exhaust back into the compressor, which can cause damage to the motor windings and other components.

However, like every other piece of outdoors equipment, an aerator compressor does need shelter. So what do you do?

Fortunately, the folks at Vertex knew what they were doing when they designed their systems. Each compressor comes already housed in a neat lit

tle lockable, aluminum compartment that is about the size of a microwave oven and completely maintenance-free. Built into the sides of this handy cubicle are cooling fans sized to keep the unit from overheating even in the hottest weather. Just another reason to love Vertex Pond Aerators.

So, there you have it; your aerator woes are gone before they can even begin. However, if compressor noise is your problem, just keep an eye out for our next post on tips about how to reduce and eliminate it.

Should I deice my koi pond?

I get quite a few inquiries about the need to heat koi ponds in winter to keep them from freezing over.  There seems to be some confusion out there about what is needed.

• Does this need to be done to protect the fish?
• Do I have to keep all the ice off the pond all winter?
• Is it ever safe for the pond to be iced over and if so how long?
• If my pond needs to be deiced, how can I do this?

Generally ice on a koi pond for a week or two is not a problem for the fish.  At this time of year, the koi have already gone into hibernation and are not feeding.  This means that their metabolism has greatly slowed down and they are producing very little waste.  Plant life has died back and vegetative material has hopefully been removed from the pond so there is little to decompose.   Even if there is some vegetative material, with the water temperatures in the 30s and 40s, very little bacterial activity is occurring.  So, overall, the biological processes in the pond have slowed down to a crawl.  This means if any toxics are being formed, they are doing so at a very slow rate.  Therefore, a pond that is totally iced over is not in immediate danger of toxic poisoning to the fish.

Ice over does become a problem when this condition continues for more than a few weeks without respite.  Even though being produced at a very low rate, toxics can accumulate over time and stress or kill fish.  Unfortunately this stress is hard to detect while the fish are parked in the deepest part of the pond.

How will you know if you are having a winter fish kill? You may not know immediately as fish that die in cold water frequently do not immediately float up to the surface below the ice.  More than likely you will not know until the ice melts and the water warms just enough for bacterial activity to start decomposing the dead fish.  At this time, the bodies will bloat and be carried to the surface.  Not a pretty site.

Even if the toxics are not severe enough to kill the fish immediately, you may lose them later in the season.  Stressed fish this time of year typically show up when the ice melts.  At that time when the rest of the fish are beginning to surface on warm sunny days, the stressed fish will either hang by themselves at the bottom or if in dire straits, will gulp for air continuously at the surface.  By then the damage has been done

What to do?   It is not necessary to keep the pond all ice free all winter.  It is necessary to open some open water at least once every 10 days.   So, if you live in an area that has periodic icing in the winter, you probably do not need to take any action at all.  If you live in an area where ponds routinely freeze hard you can either periodically thaw your pond out as described below or invest in a deicer.

Deicing without a deicer: To vent toxics, you need only to open a spot a foot or two across in a backyard sized pond and keep it open for a day or two.  Here is what NOT to do.  Do not open the ice by pounding on it with a hammer or throwing rocks on it.  The vibrations from such actions will throw your poor disoriented fish into a frenzy.  Remember, your goal to provide a stress free winter for these guys.   What you can do aside from buying a deicer is:

1.      Hang a 100 watt light bulb about 6 inches over the ice, one with a utility deflector and cage, if you have one, to focus the heat down.  Leave it on until there is a hole in the ice at least a foot wide.  Yes, be careful.  Don’t climb out on the ice to hang the light where you will have to retrieve it later over thin ice.  Dah!  Just locate it over the edge of the pond.  Secure it firmly so it has no chance of blowing into the pond.  Plug it into a GFIC receptacle so if a blizzard wind comes along and blows it into the pond, your fish will not be shocked. (GFICs interrupt the power immediately when shorted and are required on all outdoor receptacles)

2.      OR, Pour a bucket or two of hot water over the surface of the pond until you have a foot wide hole in the ice.  Reapply enough to keep the whole open for a day.  Then let it freeze over again.

Deicers:  Pond deicers are made to be plopped into the pond before it freezes over.  They are made to be submerged so electrical shocks and shorts are not an issue unless you have curious pets that chew wiring.  These deicers are cheap to buy,(less than $50) but at 300 to 1500 watts, somewhat pricey to operate.

(At a typical $.12 per kilowatt price, a 1500 watt heater run continuously would cost about $4 per day to operate)

The better ones have thermostats so they are not running constantly.  A good substitute for a pond heater is a stock tank (horse trough) deicer.  They are built almost identically and can be purchased at most farm supply places like TSC at a lower price than a pond deicer.

In conclusion, only deice if your pond freezes solid for more than two weeks at a time.  Then open the ice gently at least a foot wide for a day, about every 10 days.

How long do you leave barley straw in the pond for algae management?

There appears to be some confusion about the use of barley straw to retard the growth of algae in ponds.  Some users have been directed to leave it in 60 days and then take it out.  Others were told it is only good for about a month. What is the real story?

Since I have probably sold more straw to more customers than anyone out there and have probably received more feedback on what works, I feel comfortable to advice on this subject.  Here’s the deal.  Put the straw in the pond any time of year and LEAVE IT THERE UNTIL ITS GONE. It the decomposition bacteria feeding on the straw that makes it work.  As long as there is straw there, it is working or will work as long as the water is or again warms to above about 45 degrees.  If after a period of effectiveness and while the water is still warm, if the algae begin to re-surge, you can add new straw to the pond.  But do not take out the old.  Even when the volume of the old straw diminishes, leave it in as it is well inoculated with the beneficial bacteria.  And, yes, it is recommended to leave it in over the winter as it will reactivate again in the spring when the water warms up.

Baking Soda makes a safe cost effective alkalinity booster.

WHY: Total Alkalinity is a measure of the carbonates in the pond.  They are essential to creating an environment where beneficial bacteria flourish and fish stay healthy and grow rapidly.  Many people are blessed with high natural total alkalinity, some are not.  Those who live out on the plains, the desert south west, California, in limestone valleys, or otherwise hard water are generally among the blessed.  Those of us who live in the mountains, or near the top of a ridge, on the east coast, or otherwise have soft water, not so much.

TESTING:  It easy to find out your total Alkalinity using our Microbelift 5 in 1 Test Kit. The goal for Total Alkalinity is 100 mg/l.  If you have more, great.  If you have a little less, it’s not terrible.  If your readings are down in the 20s, 30s, 40s, you really need a fix.

RULE OF THUMB: For backyard ponds, add 1 pond of Arm and Hammer Baking Powder, yes the kind you use for baking, to raise the total alkalinity of 3300 gallons of water by 20 mg/l.  If you need to raise it more than 20mg/l, add this quantity every day until to get to the desired level.

EXAMPLE:  If you have a 3300 gallon pond and it tests at 20 mg/l and you want to take it to 100 mg/l, add 1 pound of baking soda a day for 4 days.

RULE OF THUMB: For farm ponds, add 1 ton of crushed limestone for each surface acre of pond.  For a more exact dosing recommendation, consult your local Agriculture Extension Agent in your County for directions to have the pond water or its sediments tested. For small earthen ponds with a limited flow through, you can also use Arm and Hammer Bulk Sodium Bicarbonate (ag grade baking soda), in the same quantities as you would use crushed limestone.  Unlike crushed limestone, it will dissolve immediately and give an instant boost to your carbonate.  As with backyard pond applications, if you are raising the total alkalinity more than 20 mg/l do not add more than will change the water by 20 mg/l per day so to not to shock the aquatic life.

Overwinter pond barley straw below the ice.

Another question I get a lot during the winter months is this: If I leave my barley straw in my pond over the winter, will it still be good in the spring?

Yes! The bacterial cultures that make Barley straw effective will again become active as soon as the water warms up to above 40 or 50 degrees. Like all other processes in the pond, biological activity that occurs with barley straw slows down in the winter and regains efficiency with the coming of spring.

However, there’s a catch. With the increase in temperature, sometimes algae can grow faster than Barley Straw is able to keep up with. So although it may seem like your over-wintered straw is losing its functionality, it is really just being overwhelmed by a temporary algal growth. But this is not entirely a bad thing. Many fish and other aquatic creatures rely upon this initial flush of vegetation as their first post-hibernation food source, like a spring tonic. Unfortunately, as the season progresses, they will abandon this source in favor of better, more nutritious food. Finally, once water temperatures regularly exceed 50 degrees, bacterial growth will begin to take over and the algae will once again remain in submission.

Red worms in my pond biofilter!

I have received many an alarmed email from clients all over the country, all concerning the same thing:  a species of small red worms that like to take up residence in filter boxes during the warm season. What are these things? Are they koi parasites? Are they harmful to my fish or my plants? Are they harmful to me? Should I get rid of them? How can I make them leave? One client even freaked out and put their filter material in the microwave oven to nuke the little beasts to be sure they were all killed.  (Bet that smelled good!)

Fortunately, there is no need to panic. They are not fish parasites, they are not harmful to your plants, and they are not harmful to you.

They have a name, albeit a rather unsavory one – sewage worms. Sewage worms thrive wherever there is a plentitude of organic waste; in this case, a pond filter. Typically, they are found in waste water treatment plants, digesting aquatic waste matter as an earthworm digests solid waste matter. If you have these little guys in your filter, it is probably an indication that there is too much organic debris on the material. In this way, they are actually beneficial to your system because they are getting rid of excessive waste. However, if you find them disturbing, a good hosing-down of the filter material will dispose of them; or, simply wash them separate from the organic debris and dump them in the pond where they can make a tasty, high-protein treat for your fish. To discourage re-infestation, make sure your filter is cleaned regularly. Like stray cats, if you do not feed them, they will not come.

Finally, never nuke (microwave) your filter material! Besides killing the red worms, it will also kill the beneficial bacteria that make the filter effective.

If there is algae growing ON your barley straw, something is amiss.

Barley straw is added to ponds to retard the growth of algae.  So, it definitely should not be growing ON the barley straw.  What gives?

I get a few of these inquiries each spring. Barley straw that is well colonized by beneficial bacteria will greatly retard the growth of algae in the water surrounding the straw and there should be no algae growing on the straw itself.  If there is, something is definitely out of whack.

What can cause this failure?

The number one reason for this in the spring time is that the water has just warmed to the 40 to 45 degrees range, warm enough for the algae to start growing but not warm enough for the bacteria to develop sufficiently to block growth.  This problem will take care of itself once the water temperatures stabilize over 50 degrees.  So, patience here is the best cure.

The second most common reason is that the water does not have enough carbonate to support a thriving population of the beneficial bacteria.  The water is too ‘soft’.   This is a common problem on the East Coast and up in mountainous regions.  This is easy to check for and easy to fix.  If you suspect this is the problem, test your pond water for ‘Total Alkalinity’ using our Microbe-lift 5 in 1 Test Kits. If the level is below 100 mg/l, supplemental total alkalinity is needed.  See my blog on correcting Total Alkalinity if this is the issue.

The third most common reason in small backyard ponds is that the water has been allowed to concentrate nitrate to such a degree that no amount barley straw will work.  To check this, use either our Microbe-lift 5 in 1 Test Kit or our Microbe-lift Nitrate Test Kit. Test in the morning and afternoon over a period of several days. If your levels are consistently over 5 mg/l, you really need to lower your nitrate level.  This can most easily be done by doing one or more water changes.

The last possibility is that the pond has been dosed with chemicals that have killed off the beneficial bacteria which need to colonize the straw (as well as your bio filter).  Review your pond management practices and stop using chemicals.

Sal: Nature's Own Medicinal

Grandma’s salty chicken soup helped you get over your cold. Gargling with salt water cures your sore throat. Salt sprays clear up your sinus infection. So why not use the healing power of salt as a therapeutic for your pond? Salt can be used many ways, and in both tanks and large ponds.  Its benefits include reducing fish stress, reducing nitrites, and treating pond parasites.

Some Tips about Salt:

•             Caution: Whenever used, salt should be dissolved in a bucket of pond water, and not added directly – undissolved salt can irritate fish gills and lead to injury or death

•             Iodized salt should never be used, as iodine is toxic to fish.

•             Be careful when adding any kind of salt to an aquatic tank, as it can have detrimental effect on plant life

•             Before adding salt to a tank, make sure to remove all zeolite products

•             After using a salt treatment, test the water for ammonia spikes with Microbe-Lift Ammonia Test Strips, as fish tend to excrete high levels of ammonia after exposure to salt.

•             Dosing:

o             Small tank: ½ cup of salt per 10 gallons of pond water

o             Large tank: 5 cups of salt per 100 gallons of pond water

o             Stress reduction: 2 and 1/2 cups per 100 gallons of pond water

•             As a topical treatment for sick fish:

o             Mix salt with tank water until it reaches a thick paste consistency

o             Use a new basting brush to apply to affected areas such as excessive slime or reddened spots on the head, back, or underbelly

o             Take caution applying around the eyes and gills

o             Dispose of or sterilize the basting brush when finished to avoid cross-contamination

•             Salt does not evaporate from tanks and must be removed by water changes.

Remember this and you’ll always be a step closer to a healthy, happy pond with healthy, happy fish.

If your pond freezes enough in winter you can spread your lime right over the ice

If you own a pond, you know the importance of liming. And if you own a pond in the far north, you know the nuisance of seeing your pond turn into a Popsicle. However, your pond-turned-ice-skating-rink has a special benefit that no other region does: You can lime it without the hassle of distribution.

If you live up north, and your water has been acidic (below a pH of 7.5) or you have a low Total Alkalinity (below 100 ml/g), right now is the ideal time to lime.  Fostering overall pond and fish health, liming definitely supplies the “biggest bang for your buck” for any pond practice. (And I don’t even sell it, so I’m not just trying to sell you lime)

Crushed limestone is cheaper than dirt. It can be purchased in 40 – 50 lb. bags from your nearby farm supply store for about $3 or $4 a bag, and even less if bought in bulk (ideal for large ponds).  Buy crushed or pulverized limestone, not hydrated lime (hydrated lime can kill your fish)

What prevents most people from liming is:

• Weight:

o   You will need approximately one ton per acre (but check with your local Ag Extension Agent for the exact amount required for the soil under your pond)

o   If you have an acre pond, you can’t use your trusty ½ ton pickup truck, so you’ll need it delivered

o   One ton = 40 – 50 bags

• Distribution:

o   Lime can’t be dumped all in one spot. That’d be too easy. It must be distributed evenly throughout the bottom of your pond, just like you would lime a garden.

o   A small boat or barge (a kayak or canoe is not the boat for this!) will suffice for this task, if the weather is warmer, however…

o   If you live up north, you can simply walk across the ice, distributing as you go.  All you have to do is wait for the ice to melt and the lime to sink for the process to begin.  Easy as pie.

So, for all you northerners, your job has been made drastically easier. Finally, a good liming will last for several years.  And whoever thought you’d benefit from that big old ice cube on top your pond?

Eradicate rooted pond weeds by freezing the roots

Winter has finally arrived. You’re curled up by your wood stove with a good novel and perhaps a mug of hot chocolate.  You mull it over: holidays are coming; family will soon be here, the joy of the season is settling in. Your pond, which may have iced over already,  is the furthest thing from your mind.

Isn’t that a lovely story? Unfortunately, there is one thing that could be done now before you can settle in for your long winter nap: Pond Weeding. You know what I mean – those pesky, tangled mats of vegetation that take up residence in around your pond each summer. They’re ugly, they’re unpleasant, they tangle fishing lines, they gross out swimmers and they’re embarrassing.  But are they preventable?  Yes.   All you need to do is start now.

There are a couple approaches to this task, and most of them suck. You can wait until they appear again next summer then get out a weed rake and cutter and start hacking at them yourself, if hard labor is how you want to spend a summer afternoon.  You can try sprays, but these are both scary to use and very bad for the environment.  Too little spray and you’ve wasted your money, too much and your fish will be floating belly-up.  Another solution is grass carp, which are effective, but illegal in many states.  So what works?

The answer, as usual, is simpler than one might think: Freezing.

Freezing can work for you if:

•             You live far enough north that ground freezes six to twelve inches deep in the winter

AND

•             You can draw down your pond’s water level and maintain it at that point for 30 days

The basic concept is to freeze the root systems of pesky underwater weeds so they can’t send up new sprouts in the spring.  Small, soft plants such as water milfoil, naiads, water violets, etc. have a shallow root system and can be removed quite easily.  Larger plants, especially those with tubers such as water lilies or particularly resilient cattails will take some more time.

Lowering the water level to freeze the bottom might sound dangerous, but if done correctly it poses no harm to your fish.  Here’s how:

• Lower the water enough to expose the pond bottom in the zone that grew weeds last year.
• Leave a pool of water deep enough so that your fish have room to survive without risk of being frozen

The above two goals may result in a compromise between the two for shallow ponds.  If so, always err on the side of protecting your fish.

• Keep the water level low for one month
• Aim for the coldest 30 days of the year

§  For the mid-Atlantic, that’s January to February

§  Further south, that’s December to January

§  Further north is a different case; aim for the coldest snow less month.  Snow tends to insulate, slowing the freezing process

Finally, sit back, enjoy your hot cocoa, and think about how glad you are that all your pond weeding is done for next year.

Birds of a feather flock to our feeder all winter.

My friend Dawn noted on her Facebook page yesterday that she had seen the first snowbird of the season at her bird feeder. Glancing at the forlorn-looking log cabin feeder outside the window, I too decided it was that time of year again. The air has long since chilled, the bright hues of fall are fading, and the droll patterns of frost now regularly creep across the farm each morning – In other words, winter is just around the corner, bringing with it one of my favorite activities, bird-watching. I keep my bird feeder right outside my bedroom window so I can enjoy the beautiful array of plumage with my morning coffee. It’s a pleasant way to start any day.

Away to the window I flew like a flash, tore open the shutters and threw up the sash… When what, to my wondering eyes did appear… A pitiful, empty feeder, caked with last season’s crud. Yuck. I grabbed it off the hanger, took it out to my workshop, and pulled a bottle of Microbe-Lift Bird Feeder Cleaner off the shelf. It’s a soy-based cleaner, safe to use on any outdoor surface, including birdhouses and birdbaths. (I even use it on grimy picnic tables and chairs after the summer!) The sad, grubby little cabin took on a new life in no time. I filled it right up and placed its gleaming frame back on the hook. Now all I have to do is wait for the first lucky guests of the season to arrive. Will it be a snow bird? A Carolina Wren? A charming Cardinal? A cute little Purple Finch? A Goldfinch? Besides those favorites, we also get Flickers, Nuthatches, House Sparrows, and an occasional Starling. It’s always fun to see who shows up each day. Our black-and-white housecat, Patches, also enjoys watching the birds through the glass, but for different reasons.

Last spring, we had a particularly personable pair of finches. They were identical, mature birds, but I like to think they were mother and daughter. They always flew to the feeder together. One bird would pick up, crack, and eat the seeds, but the other bird just sat there and chirped loudly. Sometimes, the feeding bird would crack a seed and feed it to the complaining, oblivious bird and then go back to feeding itself. It seemed to me that the second bird had not learned the avian art of cracking seeds, and so instead of taking it upon herself to learn, simply demanded of her mother to feed her. The mother tried and tried, but to no avail. The pair is fond to my memory because they remind me of myself and my own wearisome teenage daughter. I keep encouraging her to get a job, learn to drive, save for college, but she just keeps sitting on the perch and chirping loudly. Teenagers and baby birds, what’s the difference?

I live in central Maryland so I see a lot of birds indigenous to the northeast, but what kind of birds does winter bring in other parts of the country? Do you have any funny or interesting bird stories? Leave and comment and let me know!

I snapped a few pictures and returned home to look them up. “Mute Swans” (“Mute?” I thought, “That thing was anything but mute.”) said the text – were non-native to the region and a “threat to other waterfowl.” I glanced back at my pictures and wondered how anything so beautiful could be a threat. One pair of swans on a 3,000 acre lake? No way.

Throughout the early summer, I often paddled back to the nest to visit my secret family. Each time the signets would be bigger and rowdier. Eventually, there would be one less, and one less until they were all gone. One final day in July, I came back and both of the two great swans were gone for the year. I never did find out where they went.

The year passed, as years do, and I again returned that April to check in on the season’s swan family. Again, the enormous male would try to lead me on his merry chase, but, wise to his game, I would continue up the branch to the nest. The nest itself was something else. It was a giant, haphazard collection of sticks, branches, grasses, and anything a swan might find suitable to a nest. Its sheer size alone was impressive to me; the way it protruded out of the water as its own island reminded me of a great Scottish castle on a cliff.

Had they nested yet? Were there eggs? How many? Would they all hatch? Would they all survive? My adventures to this private world gave me tremendous satisfaction and joy. Edging my kayak just close enough to glimpse the group before retreating. No intrusion. No threat. My impact on the swans was nothing, but their impact on me is forever etched in my mind. And that’s how our interaction with nature should always be.

I enjoyed my secret rendezvous’ for three years. Then, one day in the spring, I paddled with quiet anticipation up the branch and was greeted with a gloomy silence. The occupants gone, I approached the swans’ nest and peered in. Inside sat two forlorn, unkempt eggs. Huge, clearly swan eggs, they simply lay there, dirty and abandoned. They had been laid, in hopes of a brand new family, and now they were just a dismal relic of the past. I paddled away with questions and a heavy heart. Later, I checked back at the nest a couple more times, but no swans. No swans there ever again.

I don’t know what happened to the swans. I probably don’t want to. Did they just mysteriously leave? Did someone shoot them? Were they taken by

illness? Were they trapped and removed? Does anyone know?

The hauntingly beautiful willow marsh is not the same without them. I miss them.

Have you ever had an experience like this? Comment back and let me know.

The hauntingly beautiful willow marsh is just not the same without them.  I miss them.

Let your koi shine in a clean pond

Fish are hard to catch, and harder to keep temporarily contained while your pond is being drained, cleaned, and then refilled. And nothing is more depressing as a fish-lover than watching your beloved pets flounder around a tiny prison for an hour while you struggle to clean their home as quickly and efficiently as possible. However, as springtime approaches, you begin to realize that your pond is probably looking like a sad, dirty hole in the ground, and not the masterpiece that you left it in the fall. At this time of year, fish are just coming out of winter hibernation and their immune systems are the most fragile, so you don’t want to stress them out by going through the torturous catching ritual. Stressed fish frequently become sick fish, especially if they are koi.

Of course, not all fish are created equal. Goldfish are a very hearty breed and can easily survive a few hours in a bucket. I remember being in fourth grade and insisting that I walk the six blocks to school for Show and Tell day, goldfish in jar in hand. Halfway there, I clumsily dropped the jar on the sidewalk and it shattered, sending my beloved fish flopping on the ground. I quickly scooped him up and scurried the last two blocks to school to the little girl’s room where I put him in a sink full of water. He lived. Some kinds of fish are definitely better suited to a moving arrangement than other.

But is there a way to clean your pond without the trauma and drama of catching up the inhabitants and subjecting them to The Bucket? Can you clean around the fish?

Yes, there is! Here’s how:

1.       Be patient: Wait until the morning temperature of the water is 50 degrees. The biological processes of your fish are so slow below this point that they are not effective. If you aren’t the patient type, consider doing this chore in the fall before it gets cold.

2.       Restart your filter: Turn on the pump and the filter if they have been turned off. Clean the filter media with a hose if it was not done in the fall

3.       Digest bottom sludge: If there is more than ½ an inch of “pudding” on the bottom of your pond, do a 5-week sludge digestion process with Microbe-Lift SludgeAway. To ensure that there is enough carbonate for the bacteria to be at their sludge-eating best, also add ½ of a cup of household baking soda for every 1,000 gallons of your pond every day of the first week. If you know for sure that your pond already has a total alkalinity of over 100 mg/l, you will not have to do this. This process breaks down the organic material into fine, floatable particles that can be removed by your mechanical filter. Therefore, check your filter often during this process and rinse off the excess accumulation as needed. The more sludge you digest, the more frequently you will need to flush the filter media.

4.       Digest twigs and leaves: If your pond is also littered with twigs and leaves, try some Microbe-Lift Spring/Summer Cleaner dry enzyme pouches. These are the same pouches that come in the Microbe-Lift Autumn/Winter Cleaner Prep kits, so you can also substitute those.

5.       Draw Down: At the end of five weeks, drain your pond until you can see the fins of your fish poking out of the water, but not below that. Stir the water a little to raise up any particles of gunk your filter has not removed so they can be washed down with the draw-down water, but be careful not to greatly disturb the occupants of the pond. This will also dispose of algae and water that has too many nutrients in it. When the walls of the pond are exposed, sprinkle Green Clean on them to kill any slimy scum that might be growing there. ¼ of a cup of Green Clean is enough to cover a surface 3 by 40 feet, so go lightly!

6.       Refill: If you are going to refill with chlorinated public water, be sure to add Microbe-Lift  Dechlor before you begin. If you are using well water, here are three important points to keep in mind.

a.       Groundwater in most regions is 52 degrees, so add water slowly if your pondwater is a significantly above or below this number.

b.      Groundwater contains little to no oxygen, so as you add the water, so use the nozzle on your hose to spray the water into the pond rather than simply letting it flow into the water.

c.       Keep an eye on your pond as it fills. Because the water level is so low, your fish may be vulnerable to wandering herons and raccoons.

If you follow this procedure, the results will be a clean, healthy pond and happy, unstressed fish. To help keep it that way, I recommend Microbe-Lift PL to get a jumpstart on biological processes. To block the growth of algae until your biofilter’s bacteria cultures grow strong enough to do so, pour in a little Microbe-Lift Barley Straw Extract. As a final touch to your masterpiece, add one pound (two cups) of baking soda to every 660 gallons over a period of seven days if you have soft water or a low alkalinity. Don’t know your alkalinity? Try our easy-to-use 5-in-1 test strips.

Finally, sit back and enjoy your clean, beautiful pond for the season.

So much barley, which to use on my pond?

These are three great natural products and each has its place.  All are completely safe to use in ponds populated by fish, frogs, dogs, kids, livestock, aquatic plants, etc.:

• Natural Barley Straw Bales are the least expensive and longest lasting to use.

o   Pluses: In most of the country, bales need only be replaced once a year; in tropical Florida and the Southwest they may need replacement every 6 to 8 months.

o   Minuses: The down side is they are chunky and hard to hide in the pond and need hard water to work optimally.   It’s not that they don’t sink with time, but that they are going to be visible at the surface for several weeks until they get wetted enough to sink.  And yes, a little straw residue is bound to flow off and clutter up the pond surface, again until they sink.  If your heart is set on natural straw bales but you need them invisible from day one, as the National Park Service does with our bales, you can wrap them in plastic mesh and weigh each one down with a 100 lb. of granite or other weights.  Yes they’re that buoyant at first.  If you can be patient, they will sink on their own in time.  As with all biological (bacteria dependent) treatments, they take several weeks to begin to work and do best when the water has at least 100 mg/l of total alkalinity.

o   Costs: In most areas, you can treat an acre pond for under $300 for the entire year. A six pack of bales, enough to treat an acre pond of any depth, including shipping anywhere in the Eastern and Central Time Zones is $225, or with bags included $260.  Add $10 per bale for shipping to the Mountain and Pacific Time Zone.

• Barley Straw Pellets are less obtrusive looking but are more expensive, need replacing more often, and are pickier about where they will work.

o   Pluses: Barley Straw Pellets come in 25 lb. buckets and 40 lb. bags.  To apply, just walk around the pond and broadcast them over the shallows, or spread from a small boat.  They do sink immediately.  They are less expensive to use than Barley Straw Extract but more expensive than natural barley straw.

o   Minuses: Barley Straw Pellets, as with all biological (bacteria dependent) treatments, they take several weeks to begin to work and do best when the water has at least 100 mg/l of total alkalinity.  They are also best used in pond with hard bottoms as they tend to sink into the sediments in mucky bottomed ponds.  Once covered by muck, they are no longer functional. They tend to make the water a little more acidic.  This is a plus is you have very alkaline water but a minus if you water is already acidic.  They need to be replaced every 6 weeks.

o   Costs: $1416 per year assuming 6 month warm season. 120 lb./acre/6 weeks = (3)40 lb. per bag/acre/6 weeks @ $118/bag, delivered = $354 x 4 times per year = $1416 per acre per year (assumes 6 month warm season).  If you have a 1/6 pond, an annual cost of $236 may be acceptable, but if you have an acre pond, the cost of $1416 may be too much.  For that price you can install a complete Vertex Air 1 Aeration System (assuming you have electric available to the pond).

• Barley Straw Extract is the easiest to use and the stealthiest.  The extract is a clear liquid that is simple poured into the pond. It is also the most costly.

o   Pluses: Works Great! So easy.  Just pour it in.  So unobtrusive, as a colorless, odorless liquid, no one will know it’s there.   And, because it is not bacterial, it begins to work immediately.  Barley Straw Extract is not picky about alkalinity levels or bottom sediments, as are the pellets.

o   Minuses: Barley Straw Extract needs to be applied every week for the first three weeks then every 3 weeks thereafter.  So, if you are not good a remembering maintenance chores, this may not be the one for you.  And, it is pricey for big ponds.

o   Costs: $2800 per average acre pond (6 foot deep) per year (assuming 6 warm month warm season).  You could install two complete aeration systems for that price.  But, if you do not have electric at the pond this might work for you.  Most of the barley straw extract I sell is for backyard ponds or earthen ponds less than a quarter acre.  But folks with big ponds do ask about it, so here’s the cost.  Here is an easy to remember rule of thumb: figure about $250 per million gallons per month.  A one acre pond, 6 feet deep is about 2 million gallons.

Barley Straw Bag Turtle Island

Turtles add so much charm to a pond.  They are like tiny submarines, poking their little head’s up like periscopes, gliding thru your pond.  Adorable.  But do they make good pond pets?  And, what does it take to make them happy?

What kinds of turtles are best?  Turtles native to your area, such as eastern painted turtles here in the Mid Atlantic, are the easiest to manage.  Red Eared sliders are not native but can adapt well to pond conditions if you can keep them from escaping into the wild where they can pose a problem.  Both are readily available on Craigslist from pet owners tired of their aquarium pet.

If your pond can provide food, shelter, and security (their escape artist), your pond may be a great home for these cuties.

Food: Both species start out life as carnivores (meat eaters).  And, when small, are fast enough to catch your smaller fish.   Not good if you prize your fingerlings.  If your pond gets overpopulated with fingerlings each year, they will help you thin them out.  Unfortunately there is no guarantee they will only eat the ugly ones.  As they mature, they gradually rely more on vegetation for the bulk of their diet.  Not good if you prize your lilies and other soft aquatic plants.  Great, if your pond is over planted and can stand the grazing.  Sorry they don’t eat the obnoxious stuff like algae.  Some will learn to like your fish’s food and you will see them surfacing to feed with the fish.   So, they are pretty easy to feed if you can spare some of your plants and or fingerlings.

Shelter:  Turtles are fairly defenseless against predators such as cats, dogs, foxes, raccoons, and hawks.  Therefore they need to be

Turtles flock to floating islands

able to escape to a float or island out in the pond.  They will also use this refuge to sun themselves on sunny days when the water is still cold.  Floating Island Planters make a great refuge and sun deck for turtles. Large Bags of barley straw placed in the pond for algae management can also be used if some flotation material is placed inside to keep it from sinking.  One empty capped pint sized water bottle will do the trick.

Wintering:  In the winter, your turtle will swim to the bottom of the pond and hibernate there until better weather.  The pond needs to be at least 3 feet deep in temperate regions such as the Mid Atlantic to ensure a large enough pool of frost free water.   And, they like to have something in which to hide .  A 5 gallon bucket on its side with some sand or gravel inside works.  They really like to nestle into large planters if you have one big enough to accommodate them.  They will stay submerged as long as the air is as cold as the water.  However, if you get a few warm sunny winter days, you may see them up sunning themselves on their island, so make sure it is there through the winter.

Security:  They are escape artist.  They may not leave at first, but once they are comfortable that they can hide out in the pond, wanderlust takes over.  The first two painted turtles I got for my pond, a gift from a customer, delighted me with their antics for about a month and then disappeared.  Two weeks later I found one wandering around 100 feet from the pond up near the barn.  I picked him up and put him back in.  Two weeks after that, I found him, or the other identical turtle, wandering up by Bill’s shop.  Picked him up, put him back in.  Then they stayed put for the rest of the season and overwintered great.  The next spring when things warmed up, they disappeared, permanently.  Our pond is along a natural stream,  so I supposed they found it and headed downstream.  They are native to this area, so no harm done, but I miss them.  I caught a few more in the nearby lake that season and enjoyed their company for a few months before they too went back home.  So, they really need to be fenced.  It’s not practical to fence my pond, so I’ve just given up on having submariners in my pond.  If you live along a natural stream and are close to a lake or bog, you can try to lure wild turtles to your pond by placing Bagged Barley Straw or Floating island Planters as habitats in the pond.  This is probably the best way to go if possible, since they are more likely to stay if they come on their own accord and find food and safety there.

So, there are pros and cons to turtle pets, but if you can provide for all their needs, go for ‘em, they’re adorable!

Algae on pond

If you’re like me, you spend the winter longing for the cold, dreary weather to pass and spring to come, so that you can get out there and enjoy your crystal-clear pond. Then, when the first green tendrils of life begin to creep back into your pond, BAM! Algae. The stringy green blob is there to crash the party. Sure, you’ve tried copper sulfate. It worked immediately, but after a few weeks the nasty green menace was back with a vengeance, right? Thought so.  But is there a better way? Your kids swim in the pond, your horses (and wild animals) drink from the pond, and your dogs like to fetch tennis balls thrown in the pond. What can you use that is sure to be safe for all of these pond users?

There are a couple different options out there that are both effective and chemical free.

1.       Pond dye These dyes, available in blue or black, shade the water and prevent most sunlight from reaching the primary algae growth spots. No more algae! Pond dyes are made of vegetable dye with some beneficial bacteria added for extra algae management. Blue gives the water a cool, tropical effect (and no, it will not dye your white swans blue). Black produces a shiny, reflective mirror effect that is both practical and aesthetically pleasing. The pond in the header of this blog page has been treated with black pond dye. Notice how reflective it is, and how well the colorful plants stand out against its surface. Microbelift Bio Blu and Bio Black are both excellent pond dyes that are inexpensive and easy to use.

2.       Barley straw: is an herbal treatment that blocks the reproduction of algae cells without affecting any other life forms in the pond, including fish, dogs, and kids. Just as mold found growing on bread was discovered to block the growth of bacteria and was converted to penicillin, there is a natural bacterium that grows on barley straw and blocks the growth of algae. Fairly easy to use, one application will last the entire year. Barley straw works best in water that has an alkalinity level of over 100 ml/g. For more information, see my barley straw post in the Earthen Pond s section.

3.       Pond aerators: are your third and most comprehensive choice. They work by removing the nutrients that algae need to survive from the water. In addition to managing algae, they also manage duckweed, water meal,  and other floating plants.  In addition they prevent winter and summer fish kills, reduce pond odor, and help clarify the water. Aerators are effective, efficient, and easy to use.

a.       Effective: Aerators circulate enough water to turn the entire bottom of your pond into a giant biofilter. Like a biofilter, the sediments in the bottom of a pond are capable of supporting massive populations of pond-cleansing, colorless, odorless, beneficial bacteria which process waste, break down accumulated organic debris, and use up many of the nutrients that would otherwise be utilized by algae, duckweed, and other nuisance growths.

b.      Efficient: Pond aerators, compared to their fountain counterparts, use a significantly lesser amount of electricity to do the same job. An efficient aerator for a typical one-acre, eight-foot-deep, pond that runs 24/7 costs only $40 a month.

c.       Easy: Aerators are so easy to install that a pond owner can do it over the course of a single afternoon. The compressor unit and cabinet come pre-assembled. The air stations can be lowered into position from a boat or kayak; no diving needed, and are kept in place ballasted with pea gravel.  No anchoring or tethering needed!  Air tubing is connected simply and securely with just a little PVC glue. No timer is needed, because systems run 24/7. If you choose not to run it in the winter, all you need to do is unplug it. Could it be easier? The only maintenance required is a small air filter on the shore unit that should be cleaned or replaced twice a year. Easy!

I recommend and sell the Vertex Bottom Aeration Systems , as it fits all my criteria for a great system and is well supported by their manufacturer.

Not sure what would work for your pond? Call or email me for a FREE ANALYSIS AND DESIGN! I can usually have a design back to you in less than two days; no cost, and no obligation.

For more information on bottom aeration systems, see more of my other pond aeration posts under “Earthen Pond” issues or the Aeration Section of my website.