Stories from a Strange State

A great woman is cycling the skyways

2009-12-08T13:42:00.002+02:00

It is with great sadness that I learnt today about the passing of Anne Mustoe. Anne was on her third global cycle tour when she died after a short illness in Syria. Thanks to her inspiration and example, I got my butt on a bike. One comfort is that she died doing what she lived for. Sadly her intended book on her travels across the USA, that she did last year, might not see the light.
Road.cc - Pedal Powered,
A Tribute,
Timesonline,
Somehow Rest in Peace is not applicable as I envisage Anne cycling the skyways.

My next adventure

2009-11-26T08:45:00.002+02:00

Roughly 3 months to go then I will be off on my next 'adventure'. There is still sooo much to do and soooooo little time. But we will get there. I have opened a new blogsite dedicated purely to my next outing. Postings can be viewed at Kayak for Cancer

Just another Statistic 1

2009-06-25T09:27:00.006+02:00

Currently I am sitting at the Vhicle Theft Unit, waiting for my 125 Jainshi to be released. Having my scooter stollen, has just been one of many mishaps that I had over the past couple of years. However each and everyone was just another statistic in this country's long list of crimes. Till date I had just been lucky that all the break-ins happened whilst I was at work and that I did not wake up at night with a gun to my head, like some of my firends and colleagues.

Friday, 25th May as I arrived home, I noticed that my garage door had been forced open. I was half expecting this as 2 weeks prior, my garage door had been tampered with as well and I realised that the buglars had come for a 'recce'. By now such incidents do not even shock me. I noticed that my silver scooter was gone. Darn, clearly these guys as adament to take something from me, anything. By now I already know the procedure and go about it automatically.

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This is how my Friday night went:

16:20 - I call the Brixton Police station (which is two blocks from my house) no answer. I call every number I can find including the switchboard - No answer.

16:30 - I call the Flying Squad. Very bad line and report the incident. They take my contact numbers and give a reference number. Good so I have to wait for them to rock up.

17:45 - The Flying Squad has not arrived. I decide to go to Brixton Police station to report the theft.

17:55 - I get a trainee constable. "Ma'am there was a breakin at my property and my scooter was stollen, I need to report this". She then goes off in a myrad of questions with no pen or paper in sight. "Ma'am, should you not be taking notes" "No it depends if you just want to report it or open a case" "Ma'am a motorised vehicle namely a scooter was stollen, surely I must report it and get a case number, kindly get a piece of paper and pen and take down the notes as I am not going to repeat myself". "Only if we open a case" Ok so I went all the way to the Police station to just tell them about the robbery for their information!
Eventually she gets the necessary forms and we start filling them in. "Ma'am, was your property locked when you left?" "Yes" "So you live alone and there was no one at home and the garage was locked" (No I leave my garage door open with a big sign, please come and take my broken scooter)

19:00 - My home phone rings: "Hi how are you?" (Who the hell am I talking to) "Sorry who am I talking to" "Hello how are you?" "Hello who am I talking to?" "Hello how are you?" (by now I am beyond patience) "Who am I talking to?" "Okay you do not want to answer me, I must not ask how you are" (hell no, I have no clue who is talking, first identify yourself) "Well this is so-so from the police, has the police been to your house?" "No" "okay they will come" "No need, I went to Brixton Police to report the case" "Okay, so you do not need the Police anymore?" "No, it has been more than 2 hours already" "Thank you and goodbye"

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Getting the Scoot released is not a straight forward process either. First I had to come and identify the Scoot. Then I was told to go and get a RPC form. Spent an hour at the main Registration offices in down town, just to be told that I must go to Langlaagte Testing Grounds. Got there around 14:00 and was informed that the issueing counters closes at 11:00am. Now this is not general public knowledge. I need the RPC as I only have today to collect the scoot. I am then told that Captain Pasha issued the order that the counters must close at 11:00am. I go and see this Captain and he then tells me to go back to the counter and request the form on his instructions. So of I go again. Then the clerks tell me that Captain Pasha can not issue an order like that as he is from the Police and they are from Licensing. Okay so he can order them to close at 11:00 and that is good, but he can not request they work outside their hours? Back to Captain Pasha, he then goes off to Counter 10 and somehow manages to get me the RPC. With the appropriate document in my hands, I go back to the Vehicle Theft Unit in South Gate.

The Inspector working on my case is not in as his car had broken down and he is in Norwood, on the other side of town. Also he can't do anything with the RPC as the Scoot must still be cancelled on the eNatis system, and a hord of other paperwork need to be completed, before the RPC can be processed. Why he has not done this yet, I do not know. He suggest that I get here this morning at 8 as it is nearly a 3 hour process to get the scoot released. Great, he did not tell me this in the begining either, as I had made arrangements with friends to met me here at 8 so that we could trailer the scoot to the workshop.

So I arrive here at 8. The Inspector is not available. He is still in Norwood to have his broken car repaired. Blimey, could he have not told me to only come in at 9 or 10 knowing that he was going to be late! Every now and then someone would just come and tell me to please be patient as he is on his way. Two hours later, he has not arrived yet. Then we still need to start the 3 hour process, then I need to contact my friend (who would hopefulle still be available) to collect the scoot, take it to the workshop in Cresta, then still have to go back to work.

In the mean time, Brixton Police just called to inform me that the scoot had been found. No ways!! Also wanted to know if the Finger Print Specialist had been to my property to take finger prints. A month later, doubt that there will be any prints left.

A sad day

2009-03-13T20:37:00.015+02:00

It is nearly a month since the biker community I belong to was shakken by a horrific incindent. The reaction from the bikers were overwhelming. Within days bikers from all over Gauteng "mobilized" and messages of condolences, anger, disbelief and support 'flooded' the forum . Permissiom was requested and granted from the family that we could attend the funeral and ride a gaurd of honour for a fallen fellow biker. (Just writting about this now, still brings a lump in my throut) This was one occassion that I wanted to attend. Not just because Bernadien was a fellow biker, but also because she was a fellow scooter rider.

Having been granted a day's leave, I left for Pretoria shortly after 5am to avoid the condense traffic on the Ben Schoeman Highway to Pretoria, conscious the whole way of the purpose of the day. A group of us arranged to attend a wreath laying ceremony and a minute of silence at school. Meeting up at an agreed venue, where we could form up and have the marshalls secure the roads for us. The owner of the garage, where we gathered, kindly offered us coffee and flowers for free. After a safety and formation debrief, we set off for the school.

Early morning traffic came to a virtual standstill as motorist simply made way for 80 bikers. Everyone very aware of the reason for our presence. I was chocking back floods of emotions, putting every effort into concentrating to keep formation. Outside the school many parents dropping off their children were openly crying when we arrived. School children were crying. Sad emotion visible all around. After a tribute from the Head Master, we were given permission to give a bikers salute (reving of engines for 20 seconds). The reving of the engines also caused a flow of tears. The minute of silence that followed immediately afterwards was even more deafening. A number of us laid flowers on the podium and we reformed to join more bikers that were comming through for the funeral service. Again the traffic just came to a halt.

Arriving at the pre-arranged meeting spot it was rather funny when the owner of the restaurant came out to take our order and we said: "80 Coffees please". The amazement / shock on his face was priceless. As a number of us got up very early to come through from Johannesburg, breakfast was also very welcome. At the agreed time, we left to go to the church. By now our numbers had grown substantially. Arriving at church there was already a huge gathering of bikers. Various biker clubs joined to partake in this sad special day. In total 200 bikers joined the funeral. By now most people could not hold back anymore and tears were shed openly. Bikers, family and friends were united in sadness. Although most of us did not know Bernadien at all, bikers has a comaraderie that is special.

(Photo taken by Dragon Love)
The Think Bike Marshalls were granted permission by the Metro Police to marshall the procession from the church to the cemetary. Moving 200 bikers and funeral procession through a dense area of the Capital takes some doing. The Marshalls did an excellent job and the motorist were co-operative as well. Many motorist simply pulled off the road to allow us through and show their respects. People came out of their houses and lined the streets and cried openly. Keeping the tears out of one's eyes and riding formation safe in such circumstances is pretty difficult.

The bikers were allowed to line up not far from the grave side. Most of us kept our distance, allowing friends and family their privacy to lay Bernadien to rest. As the casket was lowered, the bikers returned to their bikes and gave Bernadien a final "Biker's Salute". For me it was an honour to be part of this event. So sad that such a young life was taken so brutaly and unecessary. Keep riding the skyways Bernadien.

Quest to the Coast - Port Nolloth - 29 August

2008-08-29T12:14:00.001+02:00

If you ever wonder what nothing looks like, you should come and visit this region. It is the most beautiful thing to see. The peace and quiet is unsurpassed. The road goes on forever and ever. As you come to a rise, you see the road 20 kilometers ahead, snaking black through a dry desolate plain. I have seen some flowers. However the past two days a cold front had move in and the flowers did not open at all. If your Afrikaans is not very strong, language can be a barrier. The evening news is strange to watch as everything seem so remote. I had been warned about the wind. Had it constant since Upington. Yesterday a headwind of 30 kilometers per hour made my progress slow(?) The scooter did work a bit harder to keep up the speed. So far I had had no problems. Upington Vuka did do a mini service (for free - great guys) and has several people in this area that will help if I run into problems. Yes Pofadder does exist. And yes there are accomodation and petrol in Aggeneys. Where is Aggeneys? Somewhere between Pofadder and Springbok.

Did visit the Augrabies Falls, the Moffat meuseum at Kuruman and of course, stopped at a farmstall to delve into the dates. From Upington dates, raisins, sultanas, grapes and wine is cutivated all along the Orange River. Some of the best Red wine is made here. One can not visit this area and not savour some of the dates. Dates are my chocolates of fruits. Peacan nuts and some decidious fruits are also grown in this area. Then do not forget the 'biltong'. Great sheep area, not to be missed out on.

I have been staying in B&B's till now. Some are reasonably priced. Last night I stayed in 'Die Blou Huisie'. An entire house, fully equipped for myself! The house dates from about 100 years ago and was a cottage that use to belong to the original port Captain. The Port Captain's house is part of the Bedrock B&B. A place that has to be visited when in Port Nollloth. Do not miss out on Millionaire's Cake at the Coffee shop in the main street. Now I am off to Alexanderbay. I am changing my route back home, so I have some planning to go and do.

Quest to Reach the Coast 2 - Kuruman 24/08

2008-08-25T08:34:00.000+02:00

Me before hitting the road

It does not seem to matter what type of wheels I use, I always manage to add more kilometers than planned. On the N14 it is a bit difficult as it is impossible to get lost or travel a diffirent route. There is only one road, but day one was suppose to be 264kilometers, I did it in 300. Day 2 went a little better. The weather is great. However I have experienced some side wind. Hey on my motor bike I still go 4 times faster than on my bicycle.

What to see on the road

There has not been much to see since Randfontein. (See Pictures) The road looks the same for nearly 650 Kilometers. Only here at Kuruman does one see the first hills: the Kuruman Hills. It boraught back memories of the Netherlands, where I travelled for nearly a 1000 kilometers before seeing hills. The country side is dry at now at the end of winter. Lands are stripped and ploughed in preperation for sowing. Lots of dust blowing around. The 'goggas' has made their appearance already. A 'gogga' hitting your face at 60 - 70 kilometers per hour does sting a bit.

Turning Point Coffee Shop. Have met up with some great people at my stop overs. One always run into fellow travellers at these small dorpies. It inveriably turns into an exchange of travel stories, sharing current and past experiences. I have found a place that serves the best hamburger so far. It is at Turning Point in Sannieshof. Fresh home made chips, fresh buns, well made patty and a small serving of Greek Salad. Not just some garnish on the side. My breakfast at the VanWyksRus Guesthouse was so big I had to skip lunch (not something I do easily).

Most of the motorist till now had been great. But there are always the odd ones who miss a couple of screws and either overtake me into on comming trucks or overtake trucks heading straight at me and has the audacity to flash lights at me. Hell I am on a scooter, traveling at some speed (slow, but at 60 it is deadly in a colission). The roads here has no shoulder, so there is no where to go. Except to a bit of draft wind I am fine.

My intention to stop over at Lykso had to change. There is nothing but a church and a church hall. The little shop had closed down long time ago. The few people who live in the small informal settlement has to travel 70 kilometers in either direction for shopping. It is a harsh enviroment.

Lykso

Today I plan to spend more time sightseeing.

Quest to the Coast 2 - Auckland to Alex

2008-08-20T14:49:00.000+02:00

20 August 2008
My planning is done. I am nearly packed. However getting the promised support and back up is taking a bit more time than anticipated. Whether all will be in place or not, I am going on my scooter trip as planned. It is something I have been planning and looking forward to since late last year. I had to postpone my initial date due to: Bike, boss and bod. There being problems with all three. The bike and the boss is sorted, the bod, I have learnt to live with. My motto has always been: As long as my mind is in the right state, my body will follow. Again http://www.eblockwatch.co.za/ will be 'watching' me and supplying emergency support along the way. I have also received a lot of support from the members at http://www.thinkbike.co.za/. My friends and family has just resigned to the fact that I do things a little different. I trust that my little Vuka will make it.

Quest to the Coast 1 - JHB to CT

2008-08-20T14:13:00.000+02:00

Bravely through the Great Karoo
Johannesburg – Cape Town: 10 June 2006 – 10 July 2006

Getting going
Saturday morning 10 June 2006, I awake before my alarm, not having slept much the night before, too excited about the adventure I am about to embark on. Excited and scared. Scared because what I am about to do is so tremendous especially in South Africa with its violent crime. The stories in the news and New papers are very disheartening, bad news. Everyday there are at least four stories in the news papers about brutal attacks, in towns or on farms. The AA (Automobile Association) warns that the rural areas are as dangerous as the cities. Even stories of people attacked next to the road, shot or robbed are more frequent. These stories are enough to cause sleepless nights. I suffered from panic and anxiety attacks for 2 weeks prior to my departure. Everyday out of the blue I would get an anxiety attack as my subconscious was dealing with the mentality of my adventure. There were times where I did doubt the sanity of my idea, knowing that if I am attacked I can not expect sympathy as people will reckon that I was really stupid trying to cycle to Cape Town all on my own. I was very aware of my vulnerability out there in the middle of nowhere on my bicycle. Despite this, I was adamant to embark on this journey. I did not want to give up or give anyone the opportunity to try to change my mind. I knew that if I change my mind I will only be sorry one day and I never want to be sorry for not doing what I wanted to do. I do not want to regret not doing it 10 - 15 years from now. It was now or never. I also knew that once I am on the road the fear and nervousness will disappear. My mind will then be only on the adventure all the way to Cape Town.

Andre, of eBlockwatch has offered to monitor me via a cell phone, which I could also use in case of an emergency. If I really encountered an emergency, all I had to do was push a panic button on the phone and it would send out an SMS to the people that I had chosen to inform them that I am in trouble. They will then try to contact me to determine the extent of my situation. If they cannot get hold of me, they will contact Andre who could pinpoint me up to 500 meters from the nearest cell phone mast. He could also activate emergency personnel to come and look for me. One could still monitor the cell phone as long as it was on, even if I was lying unconscious in the veldt.

Everything stopped being smooth sailing the Friday afternoon already. My intention was to leave work at one so that I could still go and have my haircut, get the last few things for the road and collect my bicycle that was in for a service and the last fitment. However, I did not leave the office until four o’clock. This was because the decided to give me a send off party and wish me all the best for my ‘epic’ journey. Up to that point, my colleagues did not know what I was planning to do with my holiday. Once they found out, they did not want to let me go. Everyone had hordes of questions to ask. Everyone wanted to discuss my plans and give advice all in good spirit. The result was that I had to take to the road with my long hair and see what I could do once I got to Welkom! I managed to get to Kevin just in time. He had given the bicycle an extensive service. He guaranteed that I should not have mechanical problems until I reached Cape Town, in fact for at least 5000 kilometres or more. It would not be of much help to have mechanical problems in the middle of nowhere although I did purchase some spares and tools and researched making emergency repairs if need be. Luckily, I am a technically and practically minded person. Eventually I was home and could start packing. I never pack long before the time. I rather do it the night before as I have problems sleeping in any case. I do however plan long before the time what I need to take with. I compiled a gear list that I put together from my research.

I managed to get to bed around one in the morning. I was slightly concerned as my mindset was the same as the night before I cycled to Groot Marico and encountered a major mind collapse. At least this time I am taking an MP3 player with just in case.

Down to the Vaal
Then the day is here that I have been planning for months. Even though I am a bit excited, my mood is flat. My focus was to get going. First stop over is Sasolburg. I have cycled the road to Vereeniging before so I know at least what to expect up to there. My friend agreed to follow me as far as South Gate that is about 10 kilometers away. Two blocks from my house, I turned to her and pretended to be tired causing her to pack up laughing. At SouthGate mall, we say our goodbyes. My excitement levels rose. Our ways part on the bridge that spans the Ben Schoeman highway. My friend heads north on the freeway, I head south on the old Vereeniging road towards Cape Town.
The morning air is fresh and cool that is typical of the High Veldt winters. Flying down the long down hills down the Johannesburg Dome causes the resistance wind to be a bit freezing. The morning traffic has not picked up yet. For most motorists I was nothing strange, just another cyclist going somewhere. So what that I was carrying bright red panniers and something strapped on top of the carrier. Okay so I was not the conventional cyclist on a racer, still I was just another cyclist. Can well imagine that a lot of people who saw me did not think anything peculiar about me till they found out I was on my way to Cape Town and must have remembered seeing me; thinking to themselves “Gosh she’s mad.”

One drops very fast from about 1700 meters above sea level to 1100meters. Luckily, there are no sharp turns and little traffic. I managed at one point a speed of 63 kilometres per hour.

Walkerville was a good point to stop for morning ‘tea’ as it is about half way between Johannesburg and Vereeniging. Just managing to make the bicycle stand (the sidekick stand proved not perfect due to the heavy weight of the panniers) I indulged in my fruit and energade. I have found energade valuable in replacing the lost minerals and salts when I am out cycling. A couple of cars gave me friendly hoots, but otherwise it was quiet.

Just past De Deur, a number of funeral processions passed me heading towards Vereeniging. Coming through the trees I saw a massive crowd in the veldt on the right of the road. At first, only a lot of busses and cars were visible and I thought that maybe it was some soccer match underway and only when I saw all the people I realized that it was actually a funeral. I only realized the extent of the situation the further I went. It was not one funeral but several. There were so many, one could not say where the one ended and the next began. I entered the cemetery and asked if I could take some pictures. At first, some bystanders treated me with apprehension, but their attitudes changed when they realised that I meant no harm. I experienced such a culture shock. I have never seen so many funerals at the same time. On my way out, more precessions were making their way into the cemetery. Sometimes they have to wait for a procession to come out, before there was room to go in. It was very disconcerting...

Not many white people are on the streets of Vereeniging even though the streets were quite busy. This is because the white people prefer to go to shopping centres in Drie Riviere or Vanderbijl to do their shopping. This could be because of fear of mugging, too scared to park their cars in the streets and because their trusted brands can be found in shopping centres. The street shops are not the good trusted brand types or keep the trusted brands.

En route to Vereeniging, I made contact with Coenie in Sasolburg who offered me accommodation via Andre at eBlockwatch. My plan was to go via Coalbrook to Sasolburg, following the R82. Coenie recommended that I take the R59, as it would cut out a detour to his house. This meant that I had to ride partly on the Freeway between Vereeniging and Sasolburg. However, cycling on freeways is not permitted in South Africa. I was still to have more problems that are similar on my way, hat people suggested I simply ignore, as there is no other way. Luckily, in the rural towns there is some tolerance towards breaking this rule. However in the lager cities and coastal cities, do not expect any tolerance. Coming onto the freeway from the southern end of Vereeniging the onramp forms most of the freeway part. As soon as one is actually on the ‘freeway’, it ends just before it crosses the Vaal River.

South of Vereeniging the landscape flattens out. This made the ride to Sasolburg pleasant and easy to ride. The winter midday heat was pleasant. The Vaal River, the border between the Free State and Gauteng, flowed by peacefully. The name Vaal River comes from the colour of the water in the river, a murky brown. Due to South Africa situated mainly on a plateau, the river flows slowly. I was crossing my first provincial boundary; I had another four provinces ahead that I would pass through.

Facing the Free State
Not knowing the suburb in which Coenie stays, the arrangement was that I would call him from the garage close by. He would come out to meet me and escort me to his house. I had just turned into the garage when a woman called me. It was Coenie’s wife. She recognized me by the panniers. I did not even take my feet out of the toe-clips and dually followed her home. Coenie and his wife Lienkie are very warmhearted hospitable people. Lienkie and I got along quickly and soon we were chatting like old friends. Even though the sun was shining and there were no clouds in the sky, it was cool if one sat in the shade. Lienkie and I sat on camping chairs by the kitchen door. The area protected from any breeze, made it pleasantly warm. It is always fascinating what two complete strangers can talk about. They talk about cats, dogs, kids and anything that one feels like. There are no written rules. I did wonder how many times I was going to talk about my cats and work and when I will tire of the topics. For now, I was enjoying my visit and the company of my hostess.

Lunch was little meat rolls which I thoroughly enjoyed. My diet on the road is fruit, which I supplement with vitamins, but once I book in for the night, I have no dietary rules except for breakfast. A heavy hearty breakfast does not sit well with me and I normally opt for oats, porridge or egg on toast. Having the use of the guest room and was warned by my hosts that Sasolburg can become quite cold. The room has a heater, but I find it very unpleasant to sleep with a heater on. My sleeping bag proved a very useful commodity that night and a few more nights there after on my trip. While Lienkie and one of her daughters went to a competition, Coenie, and I had a chance to exchange our ideas on the crime situation in the country. Coenie works at the local Police station. According to him the minor crime such as house breakings and car thefts are well under control in Sasolburg. According to him, the crime in South Africa is not much different from the rest of the world. What are very different in South Africa are the violent crimes. There South Africa takes the lead. Through our conversations, their little Dachshund made it very clear, he is unhappy because some members of the family are not home. Once his favourite kid came home, the dog stopped crying.

Day 2: my plans to be on the road everyday at seven in the morning was ‘hijacked’ again. I was not allowed to leave until I had a decent breakfast and it was not negotiable. I managed to start at half past eight. Lienkie went off to church and Coenie explained the entire route all the way to Welkom. It did come in handy, but first I had to find my way through Sasolburg without going on the freeway. Either I missed which road I was suppose to turn off so I could miss the Freeway or I was given permission by a member of the Police to ride on the Freeway and did not hear it. Either way I landed up on the Freeway. Finding my way off the Freeway I cycled into town. The next obstacle was to find my way around yes around all the Sasol Plants. With no clear road indicators I followed my nose and kept the Sasol plants to my left as I remember the highway should be somewhere on my left and does not take a turn in any direction. Once I managed to get back to the highway, I found a service road running parallel to the freeway to the point where the freeway ended. Only then could I resume my planned route, the R82.

It felt like an endless morning trying to get out of Sasolburg. I had the opportunity to see the Sasol plants from every angle. Although it was Sunday, there was a lot of activity at the plants. Without Sasol Sasolburg would not have existed. Coalbrook was the original town, but since Sasol established Sasolburg, Coalbrook became a mere dot on a map with a few derelict houses where no one lives anymore.

After Sasolburg, the landscape becomes even flatter. The next town, Kopies is misleading. The name makes one look forward to seeing some change in the dreary very straight horizon, but it is only an illusion. As far as the eye can see, there is nothing. The odd tree in the distance stands out like a sore thumb. Even the railway line with its overhead wires creates some variation in the landscape. The old road to Kroonstad was not in a very good condition, luckily very quiet. Along the way, I saw a sign to a Concentration Camp cemetery. I decided to go and visit it. Turning off onto the gravel road, I lost my balance and came off my bicycle, grazing my knee. Got up, dusted myself off and continued. A couple of kilometers down the road, I realized the cemetery is further than I thought and decided to go back to the main road. As I turned onto the tar, I again lost control of the bicycle and landed on the ground, the panniers throwing the bicycle off balance very quickly. I came down hard grazing and bruising some anatomy parts. Got up, dusted myself off and continued cycling. Had a good laugh at myself, managing to cause injury to limb without a car in sight.

I stopped at Koppies to replenish with a bite to eat and something to drink. Luckily, they have a Spar, so there is no shortage of variety. My plan was to stay a Rooiwal. On arrival, I found that if there was a town, it is not visible or so small that nothing is happening around there. I decided to try to reach Kroonstad before nightfall. I soon realized that maybe I will not make it. With no idea where there could be another town and not really feeling like turning back to Koppies, I decided to push on as much as I can. A mere flash of a road sign, I realized I had just past some sort of town/settlement. Turning back, I found the turnoff to Heuningspruit and decided to see if I can stay over there. It did at least have a Police Station. Maybe I can ‘book’ myself into a cell for the night. At first, the Police was not too keen for me to stay. They did eventually allow me to stay in their ‘not so often used community hall’. It was actually a type of park home. It could lock, had running water and some chairs. It was perfect for me. I had my mattress, sleeping bag and torch. As long as I had a roof over my head with some protection, I was good. I even had some food with me, so I would not go to bed on an empty stomach.

Updating my diary, stats and preparing my ‘bed’ for the night, I reviewed my trip so far. My peace was soon disturbed when I heard funny noises outside, in a small settlement with only about maybe 10 houses of which only half is occupied, noises are very unusual. Going out I found a raging veldt fire that was spreading fast towards the Police Station. Having attended a Fire Fighters Course, I assess the situation and realize if not contained very fast, not only will the Police Station be at threat, the three houses next to the Police Station as well as the ‘Community Centre’ and therefore my ‘overnight facilities’ will also go up in flames. I found a hose and main water connection, but it was useless. There were hoses lying all over the place but not connected and I could not find another tap that would be of any use. Emergency – Call eBlockwatch. Andre sent out and emergency signal and soon the Police Station’s phone were ringing from concerned residence and farmers. Soon I realized that there are more people around than what I first thought. 10 minutes later the Fire Brigade from Kroonstad arrived. Apparently, the fire was a real threat. If it crosses the road a long a dry riverbed, the farms are at risk and the fire would be very difficult to contain. Instead of having an early night, I had an evening of much ‘excitement’.

I also discovered that there was a woman living alone in one of the houses right next to the Police Station. Why the Policemen did not refer me to her when I arrived is a mystery. I went to see if she is okay as the fire was also threatening her house. She had been watering the lawn around her house for safety. She then invited me to come and spend the night are her place. It did mean having to pack up everything again. She did have an extra room with bedding, was glad to have some company, and offered a bite to eat and fresh coffee. Throw in a nice bath and it is an offer difficult to turn down. After my bath we sat down and starting chatting over a glass of red wine. I have no problem chatting to strangers. However, we soon found out that we are not exactly strangers. It turned out that I did my national service with her sister. What an amazing coincidence. The next morning we had to leave in time to avoid the morning traffic of chickens, duck, sheep and cows that she come across as she walks the 50 meters to the Police Station. After a hearty breakfast of porridge, I was ready for the road to Welkom.

I made Kroonstad in good time and stopped off at the Wimpy for a Teatime cup of coffee. Getting out of Kroonstad proved more difficult than I thought. I know the Freeway through the town; however, I needed to get on the Welkom road without going on the Freeway. If I took the Freeway, I would have to cross four lanes of high-speed traffic, as the Welkom road is a major slipway off the high way on the opposite side from where I enter the highway. I did not fancy myself playing chicken with high-speed cars crossing my path. For some reason the locals could not tell me how to get on the Welkom road the safer way. At one point, I ended up on the road to Durban! Perseverance and I found the ‘back road’ and after much delay and going in circles, I was on the Welkom road. What a dreary road! I was cycling straight into a head wind that just kept coming from the front no matter which direction the road tuned. It was quite hot and with no trees anywhere, I had no shade to stop and take a break. The monotony of the road got to me. The headwind tired me more mentally than physically. My body was aching, my bum was sore. So much for all the training, I did before the trip. I was encountering a major mind collapse and needed to keep my wits about me to push through. Thanks to my MP3 player. With the tunes of “Boesmanland” and “We ring a sacrifice of Praise” I managed to reach Welkom. Exhausted, mentally and physically.

However, my woes were not over. I had an invite from a resident, whom I met on one of my camping trips, to stay over at his place. When I called him from our agreed rendezvous, he informed me that he was unable to host me as his wife had had an accident and was in no condition to accommodate visitors. Understandable. There I stood on the outskirts of Welkom and wondering: now what. I called Andre, of eBlockwatch, as he had offered to arrange accommodation for me in Welkom, which I turned down in light of my earlier offer. He told me to stay put while he contacts his local contact. The next moment I get a call from a person, called Jan, who tells me to meet him at the Casino in the city centre. ‘Okay, it must be because the casino is a very noticeable landmark’. Therefore, I set off to the casino and boy did my day change drastically. I was treated like royalty when I arrived there. Bicycle placed under security guard, I was shown into the VIP lounge and told I can have whatever I wanted to drink, on the house. Jan came in and told me that the management of the Casino had decided to host me as a special guest, all expenses paid. I was flabbergasted. As the Casino did not have its own hotel, yet I was given directions to a lodge that houses the guest and told that I must call Jan when I am ready for supper. I felt a bit uncomfortable as I was planning to stay two nights as a ‘rest day’ in Welkom. They said that it was not a problem and would still cover all expenses. Wow! Close to suppertime, I called Jan and a car was sent to collect me from the lodge. I was treated to a full buffet supper and had a lovely evening chatting to Jan. After supper, I was taken back to the lodge.

The following morning, after breakfast, I set off to find a hairdresser. I badly needed a haircut. I noticed a hairdresser the previous day on my way in and went off to find it. I walked into Groenwalds Barber shop and walked out quite a while latter with a very, very short haircut. Oom Groenwald was so taken with my cycle trip, the more we chatted, and the more he cut. Donned with my new very short hairstyle, I went to do some shopping and have a relaxing afternoon. After another great supper, I was ready for the rest of my trip. Jan kindly showed me the best road out of town and shared some interesting stories of Welkom. For one: Chicken is the preferred meal. Everywhere there are Chicken Fast Food Outlets. Either the well-known brands or private informal ones. Apparently, MacDonald’s did not do very well because of this and ended up closing their outlet in town. There are not many traffic lights in the town. Traffic is controlled by round-abouts.

The following morning I joined the early morning traffic as I made my way to Theunissen. It was a crispy cold morning. Donning jacket and beanie, I was enjoying the change in the countryside. The flat plains were changing into low rolling hills. As I crossed the Sand River, I found a roadside stall. Although it was closed, I decided to make use of their bench to rest and have a bite to eat. Soon the owners arrived, learning that I was on my way to Cape Town on a bicycle, insisted on serving me tea and other nice goodies. I spent a lovely little time chatting to them. Concerned over my safety, they insisted that I let them know as soon as I arrive in Theunissen safely. The road to Theunissen is narrow and rolling with no shoulder to ride on. At one point, a car came screaming over a rise on the wrong side of the road, heading straight for me, who was on the correct side of the road, flashing lights at me. Where, the heck is I suppose to go? So I tuck my head down and focus on keeping my bike straight as close to the edge as possible. I had one of two choices. Play chicken with the motorist or go off the road hitting rocks. I choose playing chicken. Knowing if the car hits me, I will be dead. The motorist missed my marginally and I continued unscathed.

I made good time to Theunissen, arriving just after lunchtime. The only place that seemed like a place to stay was the local hotel. Being reasonably priced, I booked in. After a lovely shower, I set off to explore the town. I visited the local library and found an internet café, where I could check up on my emails. I also found a resident who turned a toilet into a flower bowl! At a small coffee shop, I relaxed, updating my diary. Just before suppertime, I returned to the hotel and joined the locals in the pub. There were a number of out of town visitors and we spent a great time exchanging stories. The most paramount was crime. Everyone had been a victim one time or the other. One guy was even injured in an armed robbery in his house. Next to me sat a young mother with a little boy of about two. He was having an energy drink. I did not think that a good idea, as he would still be bouncing off the walls at bedtime. As everyone was helping themselves to the complementary peanuts, he felt that he should also have some with his drink. We kept moving it out of his reach. Soon he was going from lap to lap to get closer to the peanuts. After a hearty supper, I retired to my room to get into bed early. As soon as I switched off my light, the volume of the music in the pub went up. The ‘pub crawlers’ were just getting into party mode. With booming Afrikaans music, sleep came slowly. Eventually tiredness got the better of me and I succumbed to sleep to the tunes of Kurt Darren’s “Ek wil huis toe gaan” (I want to go home)

The following morning the veldt was white with frost. As I was entering more into the center of the country, the morning temperatures were decidedly colder. The road as quiet, as most people only really get going once the frost has cleared. I stopped off in Brandfort for morning tea. This quaint quiet town has a history more prominent than one would expect. During the South African War of 1899 – 1901, it had seen some fearsome battles. It had one of the biggest concentration camps. This is also a sizeable Boer War Cemetery. Visiting the cemetery was on some way disconcerting. It was such a sad period in our country’s Colonial History. The amount of women and children who lost their lives, in those horrible things called concentration camps, just because they wanted their independence. Although the ‘Boers’ lost the battle, they did not lose the war as South Africa was granted ‘Independence’ in 1910. Yet the ‘war’ was not over. Winnie Madikizela-Mandela was placed under house arrest for 9 years in Brandfort. The reasoning was that as a Xhosa she would not have much influence over the Sotho’s in the area as the Black population was struggling for their independence from the white government. This house arrest did not work well, as Ma Winnie went on to exert al lot of influence over the locals and established the ANC Women’s League from her ‘house jail’ in Brandfort. Brandfort was also home to another ‘prominent’ person. Louis van Gogh, the brother of the great painter, Vincent van Gogh, lived and died in Brandfort. Leaving this little sleepy town, I headed for Bloemfontein.

Getting into Bloemfontein, again meant that, I had to do a small stretch on the freeway. This country does not make much allowance for modes of transport other than motorized vehicles.

The road from Brandfort automatically connects onto the freeway. This was my first touch of the N1 main road to Cape Town. Luckily, I could get off about 2 kilometers onto the main road into the city centre. Bloemfontein is one of those places in this country that I have not really visited. I have passed by very often on my way to Cape Town in a car. The only stop would be at one of the Petrol stations along the freeway to fill up the car and the body, then, just speed off again to my next stop. The one time I did go into the city centre, in the 80’s; I was confused with the roads and ended up going down the wrong way in a one-way street. This time was different, as I was entering slowly and could go down a one-way legally. I spent a little time cycling around the city and admiring its beautiful old buildings.
Bloemfontein is the Legislative Capital of South Africa and is home to the highest court in South Africa. Before ‘Independence’ in 1910, it was the capital of the Independent state of the Orange Free State. Since the unification with the Cape Colony, it remained the provincial capital of the Free State.

I had an offer for accommodation with a social worker. I found a nice little coffee shop and sat outside on the ‘stoep’ so that I could keep an eye on my bicycle. She offered to send someone to come and collect me. I was in no rush and so were the waiters. After half an hour, no waiter came out to serve me. Luckily, I had provisions with me. The establishment was open all right. A number of people went in, but no waiter came out. My lift arrived and taken to the Social Worker’s office. Cup of coffee and access to the Internet to check my emails were very welcome. Back at my hostess’ house I had a warm relaxing bath, while she prepared a simple dinner of pasta. Much needed. We then settled down to some great talking and watching some Television. A number of people came to drop off blankets in lieu of ‘Operasie Winterhoop’ (Operation Winter hope). The collection for the homeless and destitute went very well. People were really opening their hearts to help those in need. We decided to have an early night. The next day was a national public holiday and the day for the Comrades Marathon, that is run yearly between Pietermaritzburg and Durban (or vice versa). We were eager to see the start of this epic race that takes just over 5 hours 30 for the top athletes and up to nearly 12 hours for the rest.

At 04:45 we took our seats and over a light breakfast of porridge and coffee we watched as 30 000 runners sat off to Pietermaritzburg. It is a grueling race and has no mercy. I honestly prefer to cycle. At seven o’clock, my hostess gave me a lift to the end of the freeway. This was the only time I took a lift, as the alternative road out of Bloemfontein was not a good option. (According to most people, my entire trip was not a good option). From here to the turn off to Edenburg, I would be following the N1. The alternative road is a gravel road and not a suitable option for safety and the good of my bicycle. The N1 has a nice broad tarred shoulder, so I was well out of the way of traffic. To my surprise, the truckers were amazingly accommodating. On my stretch from Kroonstad to Welkom, I often encountered the dangers of trucks. That road is a dual carriage road and although I was cycling well on the border of the shoulder, I often found that when a truck came roaring past, I would be sucked towards the back wheel. It is quite a scary thing, seeing these big spinning wheels so close to you. I had to counter-act every time to avoid being run over. Here on the N1 the truckers would actually make a big detour around me, even though I was way out of the road.

------To be Continued------