Stranded

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Fri, 06 Jul 2007 16:57:00 +0000

Promise

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:59:00 +0000

July 9, 1914 Liverpool
Cymric docked at 2.20 in the afternoon. Great excitement on board. Everyone shaking hands and exchanging cards. Promises of postals and letters made but will probably not be kept.
Mr Baker helped us with our luggage. Custom officers very kind and delightful. Mr Schumb, Mr Baker, Bessie and I had a compartment all to ourselves. Delightful dinner on train. Cost only 62c.
Scenery simply beautiful. The fields fresh and green, separated from one another by splendid hedges. Houses all of brick, red and very effective against the green background. Altogether a beautiful day, no clouds, lots of sunshine and delightful company.

Conned

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:59:00 +0000

London
Arrived at London at about 8pm. We took a hansom to the West Central Hotel. Fare was only 1 shilling but I had no one shilling pieces and so cabby took an opportunity to cheat me out of the change of the two shillings by saying he had no change. Moral, beware of not having enough change in these uncivilized parts.
Our room in hotel very nice and pleasant, two windows, two beds, electricity.
Dead tired and bed at about ten. Still very light here at nine-thirty.

Walking

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:55:00 +0000

July 10, 1914 London
Walked down to Regent Street by way of Oxford Street, the biggest shopping district in London. Called at Polytechnic to arrange about tour. Little boys attending school there seemed very much like American boys except that they wore short pants and short stockings and the leg showing between the aforesaid pants and stockings.
Most men wear top hats and frock coat and white spats. Interesting looking but a trifle too well groomed.
Met Mr Schumb. He was carrying a red guide book of London. He is to join us on the tour. Bess bought me one, too. Both look like the real Cook articles, camera strap, books etc. Walked down to Hyde Park. Had to pay a penny to keep a chair. This entitled to sit down in Park anytime during the day.
Walked to Rotten Row and saw the most magnificently dressed women and spruced up men strolling and chatting. Lots of people horsebacking. Women look as if they were going to balls instead of merely out for a walk.
Walked to Serpentine Lake, boating, bathing, separate hours for men and women. Could hardly realise that I was on the ground made so familiar by the early English dramatists. Saw the wonderful Achilles statue in honor of Wellington. Then walked across Kensington Gardens, where we had luncheon, outside on the grass under great big Japanesey looking umbrellas. I felt as if I were at a garden party. Scene very gay and bright.
Had my first view of a young woman smoking in public. Cannot say that I like it, tho the girl was most attractive.
Walked over to the Albert Memorial Statue. Tremendous and imposing. Took bus to Piccadilly and walked over to Trafalgar Square. Met Mr Rowland, one of the Cymric passengers.
Mr Schwab had appointment so we walked thru Haymarket, down Regent, into Oxford. Looked into the windows and wished we had lots of money. Delightful shops. Heard English, French, Italian, German, Japanese on walk. Most cosmopolitan town. Found a dear little place to dine, and walked home safe, sound and weary, and very much in love with London.
Met a Mrs Wall, a charming old lady who is stopping at our hotel. Bess had some telephone calls from a former Professor. We are to have luncheon with him Sunday, tea with a Mrs Heilbron. Mr Meriam called but we could not connect with him.
National Gallery closed to visitors on account of militants.

Militants

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:54:00 +0000

July 11, 1914 London
Mr Schumb, Meriam, Rebecca, Miss Holmes, all went to oldest church in London, Bartholomew, 1300 Norman Transitional, wonderful pillars, tombs and walls, 6d admission. Then to Tower, by way of Lord Mayor’s House, Bank of England.
Tower – had to give up all bags and bundles on account of militants. Wonderful armoury collections, crown jewels, horrible dungeons.
St Paul’s simply tremendous. The only place that ever made me really believe that one might pray sincerely in a church – vast and spacious and awe inspiring. Many heroes honoured here. Rivals Westminster in that. Has a vast sitting capacity.
Went to theatre in evening. Shaw’s Pygmalion. Walked home and arrived at hotel 12.30. Many pitiful sights in London – old woman selling laces at 12.30 and sleeping all night on steps or in doorways.

Love in a mist

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:53:00 +0000

July 12, 1914 London
Too tired to sightsee so slept till 9. Dressed to go to Professor Sumichrast, Ealing, for luncheon. Got on top of bus. Passed Hyde Park, Kensington. Started to pelt. Got train to Professor’s house. Most cordial people, entertained us royally. He will procure us tickets to National Gallery and to Parliament. Came home at 6.00. Had dinner in hotel. Read a little in Punch. Mr Meriam called. Sent him home at 10.30.
The Professor has a most beautiful garden and is very proud of it. Cut us some flowers, one of which particularly interested me – It is called “Love in the mist.”

Delightful

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:51:00 +0000

July 13, 1914 London
Went to Polytechnic to give last payment. Mr Smith had signed our admission cards so we could be allowed to go to the British Museum. Wonderful place, too much to see in one day.
Particularly impressed by autographs, Charles I, II, Disraeli, Washington, Queen Victoria, Lady Jane Grey, Queen Elizabeth etc. Saw Captain Scott’s diary of his Antarctic Expedition. Last words were pitiful “For God’s sake take care of our people!”
Had lunch in museum, then took bus to go to Mrs Heilbron who took us autoing. We drove over to Stoke Poges Church where Gray wrote Elegy. Saw tomb. Penn family had private pew and private entrance to church. Delightfully quaint spot.
Drove to Windsor Castle. Too late to be admitted but saw grounds. Passed Eton. Boys just going to chapel. The cream of England’s aristocracy, all dressed in silk hats, Eton collars etc.

Palaces

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:49:00 +0000

July 14, 1914 London
Up at 8.30. Telephone call from Dr Morris. Met Mr Schumb, Mrs Harris – all went to Hampton Court, wonderful gardens, lunch there; no royal people living there now (or relations to royalty). Ride home tedious.
Met Dr Morris at Strand Palace Hotel, wonderful place, no tipping allowed, had dinner there. Many Americans come there, met woman who had travelled over all the world – made another tour this year.
Walked thru Strand. Dr Morris very fond of cinema pictures so we all went to one. Beautiful place, as pretentious as our best theatres. Met Mr Harris, one of the Cymric people, as we were walking in Strand. He greeted us like long-lost sisters. Had card from James Baker. Invitation to a Garden Party on Friday – unable to accept since we leave for Paris then.

Uplifting

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:47:00 +0000

July 15, 1914 London
Mr Meriam called but had no time to talk to him as we were on our way to Westminster. Just in time to hear the close of service, choir and organ - wonderful. Every little crevice seems to re-echo the organ’s tones. Poet’s Corner interested me more than anything else. Imagine being surrounded by the bodies of Shakespeare, Chaucer, Milton etc! It seemed sacreligious to walk about there. Marvellous statues, Gladstone and Disraeli very near together. Tombs of Mary Queen of Scots and Queen Elizabeth on opposite wings, directly opposite each other. One is uplifted when in the Abbey. The effect is tremendous.
Madame Tussaud's Wax Works – life size and lifelike figures of all nations. Napoleon’s relics tremendously interesting and unique. Visit to one of London’s lungs, Regents Park Botanical Gardens.

Suffrage

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:44:00 +0000

July 16 & July 14, 1914 London
Met Prof. Sumichrast and after much red tape admitted to the National Galleries. The suffragists have so scared London that it is almost impossible to go thru the Galleries.
Met Sir Charles [Holroyd], the director, pleasant man. Saw originals of many of my favorites. Age of Innocence, Angel’s Heads, Corot pictures (landscapes), Turner’s Evening Star and Fighting Temeraire, Reynolds’ Mrs Siddons, Head of Christ etc.
Had lunch at Ye Old Cheshire Inn where Johnson and Boswell used to go. Saw the cozy corner where they sat. Price steep but place unique and well worth seeing.
Many Americans there, met a Scotchman who explained how Cheshire cheese was eaten. Many famous autographs in the register. Of course entered mine. Perhaps my friends will recognize it when they go there. Shopped in afternoon. Beautiful shops in Bond Street.

On parade

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:42:00 +0000

July 17-18, 1914 London
Left hotel at 9.30. Went to Victoria Station with luggage. Checked it, took boat trip on Thames, at Westminster Bridge, passed House of Parliament. Imposing buildings and wonderful scene. Lot of kiddies taking boat trip. Kew Gardens magnificent. Hot houses filled with rarest tropical plants. [unreadable] English [unreadable] the prettiest I have seen in England.
rrived in Victoria Station at 7.45. Left at 8.45 for Dover. Ride not very pleasant. Took boat at Dover for Calais. Passage was shaky and rough as I had expected. An immense searchlight played all the time – only one hour across. Lights of Calais looked enchanting and made Calais look like a diamond-studded crown.
Arrived at 12.30am. Took train to Paris. Very interesting South African people on train. French man and his family hopped in at 4.00. No room in carriage but they remained just the same.
Landed in Paris at 6.00, took taxi to Hotel du Palais at 6.30. Everyone asleep. Woke up a sleepy porter. Fine room and beautiful view of Seine and Eiffel Tower. Dead tired and went to sleep after breakfast.
At half past twelve we walked down to Ave de la Opera, a wonderful shopping district. Women most beautifully dressed. Men, foppish and rather feminine. Had lunch at the daintiest little shop.
Walked home thru Ave de la Reine. Saw two parades. Soldiers looked rather small and undersized compared to English soldiers. Splendid marching.
Streets wide and surrounded on all sizes by immense statues and remarkable buildings. Polytechnic Party had dinner at 6.30. Rather interesting crowd. Conductor, Mr Betts, studying for ministry.

Panoramas

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:40:00 +0000

July 19, 1914 Paris
Went to service at the Madeleine Church, Roman Catholic. Beautiful structure. Service too elaborate and stagey. Met Misses Brooks who were on Cymric.
Mrs John Hofmeyr, wife of the famous John Hofmeyr of South Africa, man who really got the bill to have Dutch on equal standards with English in S.A., passed. Also passed the repeal of Wife and Sister bill. In the afternoon Mr Schumb, Bess, Mrs Lazzeur (nurse from S.A.), Mrs Hofmeyr and I went to Eiffel Tower. Grand panorama of Paris. Met an Alaskan and wife, also heard Yiddish spoken. Turned in surprise and found a Frenchman talking yiddish with an American Jewish man and his lad (Newark, NJ). In the evening had a chat with the Gruny [?] family of Australia. Quite a cosmopolitan day.

Through Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:38:00 +0000

July 20, 1914 Paris
The Polytechnic Party started at 9.15 to drive thru Paris. Mr Wannamaker, Mr Schumb and some Australians were with us. Very entertaining drive. Paris beautifully laid out. Wonderful statues. French very fond of heroes and have innumerable statues all about. Napoleon, the great national hero. Saw tomb of Eloise and Abelard, cemetery in which Rachel and Wilde were buried. Napoleon’s tomb simply magnificent and imposing, pure blue and white light. Drove to Eiffel Tower on way home. Met a Mrs Cassels from Alaska.

Vivid

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:27:00 +0000

July 22, 1914 Paris
Drove over to Versailles. Went thru the Madame de Maintenon house and the Grand Palace. Saw the broad entrance to the palace which the infuriated mob used in their attack on Louis XVI and his queen; the wide stairway which the Swiss Guards defended; the balcony on which Marie Antoinette stepped to face the mob. Louis XVI’s picture or statue in almost every room. The palace just breathes romance, intrigue and tragedy. The French Revolution becomes horribly vivid and appalling when one goes thru the palace. Wonderful gallery of battle pictures, each picture representing a different battle. Dreadfully realistic. Gardens most beautiful, 300 fountains playing.
Visit to Saint Cloud where Louis XIV used to promenade with his ladies. Nothing very extraordinary, well planned and some exceptional statues.
In the evening to the Paris Opera House to see Rigoletto and a Ballet act about a little hunchback. The Paris Opera House a most magnificent building, Louis XIV, in 1669. That man certainly was a lover of beautiful and artistic things. Many of the most beautiful of Parisian treasures were built during his reign. Not a representative French crowd at the Opera. A travelling audience. English, American, Germans, Turks, Hindu. Performance excellent and very much appreciated.
Mr Schumb, Bess, Mrs Wannamaker in the party.

Tragedies

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:26:00 +0000

July 23, 1914 Paris
In Fountainbleau. The tragedies of French history seem to unfold with one’s entering the Palace of Fountainbleau, built by Francis I and improved on by Henry IV, Louis XIII.
Especially is one overwhelmed with the graphic and meteor like career of Napoleon as depicted in the room which he used.
The characters of French king, queen , favorites seem to people the palaces and one can almost feel the spirit of intrigue pervading this magnificent chateau. Here Napoleon divorced Josephine and abdicated in favor of his son in 1814. Here he attempted to commit suicide. On the steps of this palace he bade goodbye to his old guard. (The tapestries are beautiful and the furniture and adornments and [unreadable]. The forest of Fountainbleau very pretty. Saw spot where Louis XV met Louise la Valere [sic].

Rodin

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:24:00 +0000

July 24, 1914 Paris
To Luxembourg [Gardens]: Confess that modern art appeals more than old time art. The Awakening of Humanity, The Grandmother, Kiss, The Hand of God, The Blind Children, The Mourners, all thrilled me with their power and marvellous expressions.
Rodin, the master of present sculpturing has some wonderful things but the most wonderful is that of the Thinker in front of the Pantheon, a splendid memorial to France’s dead heroes. The figure represents a man deeply in thought and could not have been more suitably placed.
The visit to the Pantheon finished my stay in Paris. I leave with the greatest admiration for a people so versatile, so artistic and so appreciative. No country can compete with France in painting, sculpturing and architecture.

Warm welcome

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:22:00 +0000

July 25, 1914 On train from Paris to Lucerne
Left du Palais, Paris at 7.45 am. Bus to train. Mr Wannamaker, Mr Schumb, Mr and Mrs Thorn, Eva Wannamaker, Bess and I in compartments. Rural France very attractive but not as much as England.
About three o’clock the country began to grow more mountainous and interesting. Here and there little red-roofed houses began to peep out from among the hills. Farms and villages look more prosperous.
Had tea at Basle, Switzerland. Landed in Lucerne at 8.30 in pelting rain. Boat to chalets. Brilliant illumination of chalets to welcome the guests. Delicious hot supper and cordial welcome awaited us. Room facing Lace Lucerne just glimmering thru the mist. To bed at 11. Bed so high that one almost needs a ladder to get into it.

Amusing

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:21:00 +0000

July 26, 1914 Polytechnic Chalet, Lucerne Lake, Switzerland
Sunday, late breakfast. Rainy in morning. Mountain peaks all covered by mist. About twelve o’clock Mr Crump and family entertained us with a talk on Australia. Very amusing man and most entertaining. After dinner we walked to Lucerne.
Very interesting little town on Lake Lucerne, surrounded on all sides by mountains which seem to disappear every once in a while under large banks of clouds. At night the observatories on mountains are lighted up by electricity and look like diamonds in a magnificent crown. The sparkling lake, the twinkling stars and the bright lights on the highest peaks make a fairyland of Lucerne. Mr Heap, Goody, Mr and Mrs Wade.

All Europe

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:19:00 +0000

July 27, 1914 Lucerne
Boat to Rigi station. Met Mr Goddard, Miss Needham. Mr Moulton found some very good seats for us on the train.
Rather foggy. View of mountain crags, gorges, falls disappear and reappear. Magnificent engineering work to build this railroad. Took us to peak 6000 feet high. View of twelve lakes. Austrian border. Walked back part way. Mr Mitchell with us. Place where William Tell was captured. Little church among rocks, Legend of “Sisters” and “Magic Water”.
Mr Mitchell tells me that he believes all Europe will go to war on account of Serbia Austrian situation.
The Crumps taught me some Australian slang. Went with Mr Walter Heap to Lucerne. Saw the gambling room. Men and women terribly excited. Home at 10.30.

Rainbow

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:17:00 +0000

July 28, 1914 Lucerne
Trip to Mt Pilatus, 7000 ft high, by way of remarkable railroad going up a steep incline of sometimes from 145 to 155º. The longer I stay in this wonderful place the more I marvel. The views exceed each other in beauty and charm. We saw real Alpine goats and forlorn-looking little goatherds. Lovely little houses built right in rock. Quaint and pretty flowers grow right up to the summit. Lunch at hotel. Walked thru the Pilatus gall[unreadable], blasted thru summit rock. Dreadful sensation of falling when train starts down incline. It seems as if the train is going to pitch forward. Mr Schumb asked me to go to dance.
Wednesday, July 28. Home from Pilatus at 8.15. Supper at 8.30. Interesting discussion with Mr and Mirs Jackson of Australia. (Rainbow) mist.

Dancing

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:16:00 +0000

July 29, 1914 Lucerne
Quiet rest at the chalets. Took a long walk after the rain, along the mountain roads. The mountains seemed to step out of the mist, gaunt, peaked, tragic.
Shopping in Lucerne. Dentist. Dance at chalets in the evening. Met some Stellenbosch people. English dances ten years behind American. Boys wished me to dance tango but refused as it is considered rather improper here. Had a splendid talk with Mr Wade. Mr Heap (no relation of Uriah) tried to teach me the English waltz. Mr Wannamaker, Eva, Mr Schumb were also there. Walk in garden with Mr Heap, beautiful red lights playing all about garden. Turned in at 10.45.

Concern

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:13:00 +0000

July 30, 1914 Lucerne
Expedition to Andermatt. Passed William Tell’s chapel. Walked up to Andermatt after riding in the corkscrew train of St Gotthard. Another wonderful bit of engineering. A Swiss fort in Gotthard. Andermatt the centre point of Italy, France, Germany, Austria. Only 18 miles from Italy. Passed wood where Caesar entered Switzerland. Also Pilgrim Road to Rome. Andermatt well protected by fort.
Great concern these days on the war question. The exchange offices are shown in gold, there having been a run on all the European banks.
Mr Wade and I walked up from the station instead of riding on bus. Mr Heap taught me how to play billiards.

Beautiful day

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:12:00 +0000

July 31, 1914 Lucerne
Trip around Lucerne. Quaint houses, streets, old crooked lanes; tawdry churches. Very fashionable resort. Many Americans, rather overdressed. Met Mr Anderson, he is to play in a Shaw skit, probably in Boston.
Had lunch with Mr Wannamaker, Eva, Mr and Mrs Wade. Visited Glacier Garden and War [?] Museum. Rather tame after British Museum. Said goodbye to Wannamakers who are off to Italy.
Mr and Mrs Jackson of Australia expect to come to America in the fall. The day has been most beautiful, the first really beautiful day we have had. The mountains are indistinct and dim but Lake Lucerne sparkles and shimmers and smiles.

War

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 20:10:00 +0000

August 1, 1914 Lucerne to Meiringen, Hotel Sauvage
Up early to say goodbye to Crumps and Jacksons who are going to Italy. Left for Meiringen at 8.30. Invited for weekend in England by the Goodys. Money (gold and silver) very scarce here. Arrived at Meiringen at 2.30 pm. Lunch. Walk to the gorge, very fascinating and wonderful. Old woman spinning lace. Hotel deserted of all except Polytechnic people.
All Swiss men called to front. Germans all called home.
Beautiful little villages surrounded on all sides by snowcapped hills.
Rumor that Germany and Russia have declared war. Everyone very much worried. We shall have to cut out our German trip.

Skirmishes

noreply@blogger.com (Bathsheba) — Thu, 31 May 2007 19:35:00 +0000

August 2, 1914 Meiringen, Switzerland
Early breakfast. Rumors growing more and more exciting. Report that Russia and German have had skirmish. All communication by phone and telegraph cut off in France. French socialistic leader, Jaurès, murdered. French to be neutral, England also.
Two American men arrived tonight. Many American tourists stranded because of lack of gold or silver. Luckily we have some gold. The American Express people will honor our checks. It may be lovely here but the heart and mind are too disturbed to enjoy it. All the porters have left. Only two men in hotel besides proprietor and men in our party.