Stratagem addict - online knitting patterns

Variegated Dribbler

2014-09-08T20:00:00.000+01:00

I am a big fan of Kate Blackburn's Baby Bandana Bib but find its shape doesn't suit self striping yarn so well. So have developed this one to allow some shapely striping to take place, whilst hopefully still keeping the simplicity. If you don't have a self striping/variegated yarn to hand, just switch yarns every 2 rows for a more dominant stripe. To increase absorbancy power wash and dry 2-3 times before use.

Using a cotton or bamboo DK yarn (I used Sirdar Summer Stripes) and 4mm needles...

Cast on 3
Row 1 - K1, YO, place marker, K1, YO, K1
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1L, slip marker, K1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1
Row 4 - purl

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until about 65 stitches (the odd row before or after won't make too much difference if you're bad at counting) ending on a row 4.

Complete a picot cast off by casting on 2 stitches, cast off 4, slip stitch back onto left hand needle and repeat to end. (if you are doing this for a really manly boy then you can just do a normal cast off, but I personally don't feel its too feminine for most)

Cast on 3 and knit 7 1/2 inches of i-cord on double pointed needles.

Edge the top of the triangle by knitting 2 of the i-cord stitches and slipping the 3rd purlwise, yarn over and pick up one stitch from straight edge. Slip over the slipped stitch and yarn over, so 3 stitches remain on needle. Continue to the end of the triangle.

Knit a further 7 1/2 inches of 3 stitch i-cord, knit 3 together and thread yarn through remaining stitch.

Weave in ends, and voilà! So cute!

Elf Hat

2014-09-01T20:00:00.000+01:00

A quick little elf hat, great for unisex babies and also for stash busting. It doesn't use much yarn and can incorporate stripes very easily.

Using DK yarn and 4.5mm DPN needles (I used a stash of Rico Poems and and unknown gem hidden in my stash!)

Cast on 56 and space amongst 4 needles (14 per needle)

Knit until 3 inches long (curl unrolled)

[K12, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 3 rounds

[K11, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 1 round

[K10, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Repeat this decrease round (decreasing the last two stitches at the end of each needle) until 5 stitches remain on each needle

Knit 1 round

[K3, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 1 round

[K2, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

[K1, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

[K2, K2TOG] twice

Knit 1 round

[K1, K2TOG] twice

Transfer onto one needle and turn to i-cord [4 stitches]

Knit i-cord for 1 ½ inches

K1, K2TOG, K1

Knit 3 rows

K1, K2TOG

Knit 1 row

K2TOG

Feed yarn through remaining stitch.

Tie loose knot in the i-cord stem.

Sunrise Seaswim Hat

2014-07-27T05:33:00.000+01:00

Is there a better way to celebrate Esther's 30th Birthday than taking a dip in the North Devon sea as the sun makes it's first appearance of the day? Well yes it turns out there is; knitting a hat ready for when your little hot water bottle (I mean bump) makes it's first appearance of the day whilst everyone else goes in for their second dip of the day! A simple repetative pattern keeps you on your toes but can easily be done alongside other distractions. And the use of two yarns makes it that little bit thicker and warmer for an approaching winter baby.

The pattern is to fit a small newborn or larger preemi. To make suitable for a larger newborn cast on an additional 7 stitches and depending on your guage use 4.5mm needles, continuing for 4 1/2 - 5 inches before decreasing

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Cast on 56 stitches in contrast colour [CC] and join into round (14 on each needle if using DPNs)

Rounds 1-4: K2 P2 rib
Round 5: change to main colour [MC] and K2TOG, K5 ** K1[CC], K6[MC] repeat from ** to end and using first stitch of next round as final stitch for this pattern
Rounds 6 onwards: K5[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC] repeat to end and using first stitch of next round for the next 4 inches (you are purling on the contrast stitch of the row below, then adding in a constrast knit stitch nextdoor to that - this is the main pattern)

Depending how many rows you do will depend where you are in the spiral pattern when you start the decreasing.

Round 29ish: Knit as pattern until first [CC] where it is K2TOG. Then repeat K4[MC] P1 [MC] K2TOG [CC] to end.
Round 30: Knit as pattern but K4[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC]
repeat these two rounds three more times (with one less main colour knit stitch after each decrease obviously).
Using just [MC] K2TOG to end and thread yarn through remaining 8 stitches.

And voila! You might need to give a good tug from side to side to even out the coloured raised stitches.

Kensington Steeked Pot

2014-03-07T18:41:00.001+00:00

Isn't it funny how fashions change. Three years ago when I started knitting tea pot cosies I'd have thought how old fashioned this one looked and not touched it. Now I was so keen to create something that really looked 'knitted' and had block colour texture I couldn't actually find anything 'old' enough!

I'm not a fan of most methods to make the two holes for tea pot cosies, I don't like joining in yarns and leaving stitches on stitch holders, or doing big amounts of awkwardly shaped seaming. By using steeks and straight edges with a draw string this one avoids that. There is a need to weave in ends due to the colour knitting but other than that, your cast off/on ends are used to crochet it together and so really minimal finishing.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Colour A
Cast on 80, leaving a very long cast on tail
rows 1-4: 2x2 rib
Colour B
row 5: knit
row 6: purl
Colour C
row 7: K2, sl1pw, (K3, sl1pw) rep K1
row 8: K1, (YF sl1pw,YB K3) rep K2
Colour B
row 9: K4, (slpw K3) rep
row 10: P3 sl1pw rep P4
row 11: knit
row 12: purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
repeat rows 9-12

Repeat these rows 5-12 three more time in any colour combinations, I maintained my B&C and A&D pair swaps.

Colour A
row 41: K2, K2tog, rep
row 42: purl
Colour D
row 43: repeat row 7
row 44: repeat row 8
Colour A
row 45: repeat row 9
row 46: repeat row 10
Colour B
row 47: knit
row 48: purl
row 49: (K1, YO, K2tog) repeat to end
row 50: purl
rows 51 & 52: knit/purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
row 57: (KFB 3 times, K1) repeat to end
row 58: purl
Cast off by K2tog, slip stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, K2tog and repeat to end. Leave a very long cats off tail.

Knit a 3 stitch i-cord for the tie (in Colour C), it will need to be about 15 inches. This will thread through the holes created by the yarn overs and pull the cosy in around the tea pot lid.

Now here comes the interesting part... steeks. It is all based around the columns of stitches 40, 41 and 42 - the needle is showing column 41 here.

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook, using Colour A make a slip knot and place onto the hook. Stick your hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 7 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below.

Wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull yarn through the two Colour C stitches.

Wrap yarn over the hook again and pull yarn through the two Colour A stitches.
Repeat, sticking hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 8 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below

Keep going

When you get to row 22, or the 4th set of knit bumps turn your work and continue in the same way but this time stitching through the left leg or stitch 41 and the right leg of stitch 42.

When you get back to where you started, secure the yarn by doing a slip stitch into the starting stitch, and pull yarn through the last loop to secure.

Now, you can take the scissors to your piece of work (yikes!). If you push down on your two lines of crochet you will see a 'ladder' between them rather than stitches.

This is what you cut - the rungs between the two crochet lines.

And this is where your opening for the spout will be.

Now you will also need to join the two edges/sides between rows 1-8 and from rows 58-27, this can be by crochet like the steeking or matress stitch, which ever suits you. Then crochet like the steek around the edge between these two, encasing the hole.

Weave in your loose ends, and thread the i-cord through the yarn overs.

And there you go.

Christmas Phoebe-Pud Hat

2013-10-11T18:21:00.003+01:00

Using a mix of knitting in the round, i-cord and flat knitting this creates a textured hat of much festive joy that is underneath it all remarkably simple. Knitting this as an advent present for a dear friend's newly arrived bundle of joy it really made me go quite squishy and want one. But remember people, a baby is for life not just for wearing hand knitted hats.

Using brown, white/cream, red and green DK yarn and 4mm needles...

For a small head ('very-newborn' - preemi or just tiny delicate cuties) cast on 57 stitches in brown (B) and join into the round by knitting the first and last stitch together. To make bigger, go up in multiples of 8, making the necessary decreases to have 12 stitches on or around Round 10.

Knit in stockinette for 4 inches, (not stretching the cast on curl).

Join in white(W) yarn and as follows:

Round 1: K2(W), K6(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Round 2: K4(W), K4(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Round 3: K6(W), K2(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Working only in white (W)

Knit 3 stitches, place marker and as follows:

Round 4: K2TOG, K6 until marker

Round 5: K2TOG, K5 until marker

Round 6: K2TOG, K4 until marker

Round 7: K2TOG, K3 until marker

Round 8: K2TOG, K2 until marker

Round 9: K2TOG, K1 until marker

Round 10: K1, (K2TOG, K1 until marker) (10 stitches remain)

Switch to red (R) yarn

K1, K2TOG, K1

Using DPN with these 3 stitches i-cord in red for 2 inches (or enough to tie a loose knot with the cord)

Switch to green (G) yarn (TIP a varigated/helix yarn works best) to complete holly leaf.

Row 1: Knit still as i-cord

Row 2: turn and knit as a flat piece going forwards

Row 3: KFB, K1, KFB (5 stitches)

Row 4: KFB, K3, KFB (7 stitches)

Row 5: K2TOGtbl, K3, K2TOG (5 stitches)

Row 6: K2TOGtbl, K1, K2TOG (3 stitches)

Row 7: KFB, K1, KFB (5 stitches)

Row 8: KFB, K3, KFB (7 stitches)

Row 9: K2TOGtbl, K3, K2TOG (5 stitches)

Row 10: K2TOGtbl, K1, K2TOG (3 stitches)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: sl1, K2TOG, PSSO

Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitch.

Going back to the remaining white stitches, repeat red i-cord and green leaf two more times.

(TIP If necessary, use the tail of the red to join the three i-cords beneath the berry knots with a small stitch in the centre to prevent a hole) Weave in remaining ends.

Tie a loose knot in the i-cord so the red produces a 'berry' and the leaf pops out of the top.

Stand back and melt with festive adorable cheer.

Bobble Car Seat Blanket

2013-02-14T19:00:00.000+00:00

A sampler style pattern of several different stitches designed to be easy to use with baby's car seat. The slits allow you to clip in with the buckle on the outside, and little darling cannot kick it off during the journey!

Using DK wool (I like Sirdar Snuggly as washes and drys well and is super soft) and 4mm needles, make four of each square...

Slip Stitch Honeycomb [H]
Cast on 25
row 1 & 3 - knit
row 2 - K1, * sl1p wyib, K1 - repeat from *
row 4 - K2, * sl1p wyib, K1 - repeat from *
repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, or until it forms a square, cast off on row 37

Scale [S]
Cast on 24
row 1 - YO, K3, pass YO over the K3, wyib sl3p - repeat to end
row 2 - knit
row 3 - YO, K3, pass the YOP over the K3, P3 - repeat to end
row 4 - K1, use RH needle to lift thread from YO in row 1, knit it with the next stitch, K4 - repeat to end
row 5 - wyib sl3p, YO, K3, pass the YO over the K3 - repeat to end
row 6 - knit
row 7 - P3, YO, K3, pass YO over the K3, - repeat to end
row 8 - K4, use RH needle to lift thread from YO in row 5, knit it with the next stitch, K1 - repeat to end
repeat rows 1-8 three more times, or until it forms a square, cast off purl wise on row 33

(American) Double Moss [M]
Cast on 20
row 1&4 - K2, P2, repeat to end
row 2&3 - P2, K2, repeat to end
repeat rows 1-4 six and a half more times, until it forms a square, casting off on row 31

Bobble [B]
MB - [K1, P1, K1] in stitch, turn and P3, turn and K3, turn and P3, turn and K3TOG

Cast on 20
row 1 - knit
row 2 and all evens - purl
row 3 - K7, [MB, K5] repeat, end K6
row 5 - knit
row 7 - K4, [MB, K5] repeat, end K3
row 8 purl
repeat rows 1-8 two more times, until it forms a square, casting off on row 25

Joining
Using the long tails, crochet down the left hand side and along the bottom of most squares, ordered as below:

M S B H

S B H M

B H M S

H M S B

So you start with the Moss, adding a Scale both to the right side and to the bottom, then move onto that right Scale and add a Bobble to the right.

However, the Scale and Bobble on the top row DO NOT want to join to the Bobble and Honeycomb in the second row, neither do those two want to join to the Honeycombe and Moss in the third row - these two 'holes' are designed for putting the car seat buckle/clip through. (unless you choose not to have that feature!)

Edging
SR8 - short row 8... K8, turn and K6, turn and K4, turn and K3, turn and K2, turn and K5

Choosing your main colour, pick up stitches from one side of the blanket. The exact number is not important; aim for 40 but if its 30 or 60 the only thing that affects is how ruffly it is.

row 1 - KFB, knit to last stitch, KFB
row 2 - YO, K2TOG
row 3 - KFB, knit to last stitch, KFB
(now count how many stitches you have, divide by 8, minus 2 then divide the remainder by 2 and make this '#' below)
row 4 - KFB, K# [K8, SR8] to last stitch, K#, KFB
row 5 - knit and cast off

Repeat for each edge, and matress stitch the angled corners.

Colours
I really really wanted to make this beautiful colours and had in mind unisex greens and purples, but the mother I was knitting this for requested white or cream. So, as mothers know best, I did it so. I was keen to make it slightly 'textured' in terms of a contrast for the checker effect, so picked a white and a cream. The honeycomb and scale are in shade 0303 and moss and bobble in shade 0344. There are so many different colour ways you could do, or keep it simple. Would love to see all the variations.

North Harding Cowl

2012-12-04T12:44:00.000+00:00

Following a random ball purchase on holiday - you know the "ooh that's nice, I have absolutely no ideas what to do with it but I'll get it anyway" - I ended up with one lovely ball of chunky yarn and a desire for knitting a scarf or cowl that all take several balls, so I had to improvise! The cowl will take 30 - 40g of yarn plus tassels if desired.

Using 7mm circular needles and a bulky yarn (I used Louisa Harding Rossetti, or Debbie Bliss Riva)

Cast on 86 stitches
Knit, join into round knitting last stitch together with first stitch
round 2 - purl
round 3 - K1, YO, to end
round 4 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 5 - knit
round 6 - P1, 2YO, to end
round 7 - K1, slip YOs off needle, to end
round 8 - purl
round 9 - K1, YO, to end
round 10 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 11 - knit
round 12 - P2TOG and slip stitch back onto left needle. Repeat until one stitch remains, thread yarn through and pull taught. This creates a loose cast off.

Wrap around neck twice to wear. If desired, you can add tassels, cut 84x 6inch strips of yarn, use 3 to form tassel every 3rd stitch on cast on row (when worn doubled up this will be top row so look double sided).

Ruched Cable Tissue Box Cover

2012-10-26T13:30:00.000+01:00

A simple, but textured distinct tissue box cover, to jazz up the functional card box without drawing too much attention to it. You could match this with the Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop if you want a co-ordinated ruched-room! I used the same yarn as it worked so well (Wendy Mode a triple helix) but in a different shade as this was for a different room. The join technique at the top with careful three needle bind off inside out means a seamless item with limited weaving in of ends required.

To fit a square tissue box (4 1/2” W x 4 1/2” D x 5” H).

The pattern could be adapted for a rectangular one, but I haven’t got that far yet!

Using 3.5mm circular needle and DK wool (I used a triple helix for interest)

Cast on 148 placing stitch markers every 37 stitches (optional*) and join into round

rounds 1-4 – K2, P2 rib (ignoring stitch markers)

rounds 5-49 - P4, K12, P4, K12, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

except rounds 10, 21, 32 and 43 – P4, 12st-TC, P4, 12st-TC, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

Pause at round 49. This should be the sides of your box done (5 inch)

To make the top requires a bit of magic loop style with sort of short rows… or a sort of knitting that I can’t possibly have invented yet can’t find a name for it. You will see your stitch markers* show the 4 sides of the box, lets call them A, B, C and D.

So how do you get this? Insert a second magic loop, so C is on the wire all by itself between two magic loops and A, B, D are as if on normal knitting needles and partway through a row.

This will be your straight rows across the square lid - starting a third of the way across. You are reverse stockinette knitting to and fro across A as in the photo above, but each row (not round) you need to join it to B and D by starting with a K2TOG or SSP; (the first stitch of A and the first stitch of B) and ending with a SSK or P2TOG (the last stitch of A and the first stitch of D). This can be quite fiddly with your stitch markers and needing to shuffle them every first and last stitch - if you are good at counting you can skip them, but if you are instead a spatial person it may take you several rows to notice the square and where to join the sides to the main.

So first row, moving the stitch marker, transfer the last stitch of B onto the needle next to A, and SSP then purl 35 more stitches, P2TOG (one from A and one from D) having moved the stitch marker.

Next row, turn your knitting (yes, weird when in magic loop even if double magic loop!). Moving the stitch marker again, transfer last stitch of D onto the needle next to A, and K2TOG. Then knit 35 more stitches, and SSK (one from A and one from B) having moved the stitch marker.

And repeat. A will start to look like a square and B and D will get shorter and shorter.

odd rows will be purl

even rows will be knit

row 18 – cast off from stitch 13 to stitch 25 (13 stitches total) and continue 11 stitches knitting as normal, SSK the last stitch and one from B

row 19 – purl first 12 stitches as normal (including the SSP), turn your needles and cast on 13 stitches, turning your needles back to then purl last 11 stitches and P2TOG as normal

row 20 onwards continue as before row 18.

row 38 is your final row. You will need to carefully turn your work inside out (this can be fiddly, don't forget to bring the yarn through with you) and place A on one needle, and C off the magic loop and back onto the other end of the circular needle. (B and D have all been knitted in so don't remain on the needle). Use a third needle to do a three needle purl bind off between A and C.

There we go. Completely seamless and only your starting end to weave in (for the lazy… or your finishing end hidden inside that you can do if pedantic!)

12st-TC (twist cable) means slide 12 stitches onto cable needle, twist clockwise and knit off cable needle loosely.

Munchkin Bobble Hat

2012-09-06T21:45:00.001+01:00

I really struggle knitting presents for friends expecting baby boys. Knitting lends itself to floral cutsie stuff, and for boys all you find is either boring plain-in-blue or tacky Bob-the-Builder style cartoon stuff. So this is my attempt to get something cute but not feminine into the selection for newborns. If you err to the side of cartoon stuff then you could use bright colours and turn the bobbles to eyes to make it look alien/monster-ish if you really want. And if you have a girl, then pink or purple will work just as well!

Using DK wool (I used a slight variegated one – Wendy Peter Pan Raindrop Surprise) and 3.5mm circular needles, and a smidgen of scrap yarn for stuffing…

Cast on 60 stitches in contrast colour and join in the round (magic loop is easiest in my opinion, particularly for switching to the i-cord at the end)

rounds 1-7 - Knit contrast colour

round 8 - Change to main colour (on second round of main colour, slip the first stitch to avoid a jog in the colour – thanks Techknitter!)

rounds 9-35 - Knit a further 26 rounds

round 36 - K4, K2TOG (50 st remain)

round 37 - Knit

round 38 - K3 K2TOG (40 st remain)

round 39 - Knit

round 40 - K2 K2TOG (30 st remain)

round 41 - Knit

round 42 - K1 K2TOG (20 st remain)

round 43 - Knit

round 44 - K2TOG (10 st remain)

round 45 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

rows 46-50 - Knit i-cord for 5 rows

row 51 - KFB (10 st) - switch back to magic loop after this row

round 52 - Knit

round 53 - K1, KFB (15 st)

round 54 - Knit

round 55 - K1, K2TOG (10 st remain)

round 56 - Knit

round 57 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

at this point, put some scrap wool in to ensure the bobble remains round and not deflated

rows 58-62 - Knit i-cord for 5 rows

row 63 - KFB (10 st) - switch back to magic loop after this row

round 64 - Knit

round 65 - Knit
round 66 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

at this point, put some scrap wool in to ensure the bobble remains round and not deflated

row 67 - Knit
row 68 - K2TOG, K1, K2TOG, (3 st remain) then pass stitch 1 and 2 over 3 (1 st remain)
Thread yarn through remaining stitch, and weave in loose ends.

Moon Mobile

2012-08-30T22:00:00.000+01:00

Increases and short rows make cute little stuffed crecent moons with added button stars to send little one off to sleep in their own colourful night time sky.

Alongside the different colours of DK wool (a perfect stashbusting project) you will need star buttons (I used really small ones; Trimit Nylon Mini Buttons) in same or contrasting colours, stuffing, 130inch of craft wire, 5x 4inch round dowel, 10x buttons and glue.

Using DK wool and 4.5mm needles...

Cast on 3
row 1 - K3
row 2 - P3
row 3 - K3
row 4 - P3
row 5 - KFB KFB KFB
row 6 - P6
row 7 - K6
row 8 - P6
row 9 - KFB KFB KFB K3
row 10 - P9
row 11 - K8 W&T
row 12 - P8
row 13 - K6 W&T
row 14 - P6
row 15 - K4 W&T
row 16 - P4
row 17 - K2 W&T
row 18 - P2
row 19 - K4 (picking up the W&T on stitch 3), W&T
row 20 - P4
row 21 - K6 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 5), W&T
row 22 - P6
row 23 - K8 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 7), W&T
row 24 - P8
row 25 - K9 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 9)
row 26 - P9
row 27 - K2TOG K2TOG K2TOG K3
row 28 - P6
row 29 - K6
row 30 - P6
row 31 - K2TOG K2TOG K2TOG
row 32 - P3
row 33 - K3
row 34 - P3 casting off

W&T means wrap and turn and is a way of making sure the short rows don't create holes in your knitting, see purlbee for a good tutorial

Make two sides per moon in the same colour (6 moons, 12 sides in total for the whole mobile in a variety of colours).

These will look almost triangular when flat, but once stuffed lightly and 3D they take on a more crescent appearance (they will look triangular again if you over stuff them).

Single crochet around the larger edge, joining two edges wrong side to wrong side. Then add a bit of stuffing and single crochet the shorter side.

Slip stitch your last crochet with the first stitch, and then chain stitch for 10-20 stitches, or until as long as you want to dangle it. Cut yarn and keep final chain loose - this will be how you attach it to the dowel.

Now add your stars - you want to use the craft wire like thread attaching the mini-buttons through the knitting, but instead of knotting wrap it round a dowel or pencil to create a spiral and sliding out once formed, like a starburst.

Hook the chain stitch over the dowel and pull to tighten, cut yarn and thread down into chain. Eventually you will need to glue this to ensure it stays in the same place. You want your dowel and moon pieces to be like a family tree. First dowel has two dowel children, each of those dowel children have one dowel grandchild and one moon grandchild. Each of those dowel grandchildren has two moon grandchildren. You will need to do 4 sets of chains the same as on the end of the crescent, but leaving the starting chain loose to hook onto the middle of a children's dowel.

It is a careful balancing act working out where on the dowel your chains need to be placed. First of all, once all chains are on the right dowels, use glue to attach a button on the end of each dowel. This will stop the chains and moons falling off the dowel as you try to balance them. Next, starting with the grandchildren, glue the moons chain to the dowel about 5mm in from the buttons on each side. Now hold up this section by the chain that will attach it to the children, and move the chain side to side until it hangs evenly (somewhere near halfway at the centre). Do this for the grandchildren on the other side. Next, on the children glue the moon chain 5mm from the button, and the chain from the grandchildren 5mm from the other button. Now hang from the chain to the parent and balance this (somewhere near one third to a quarter towards the chain from grandchildren). This will take very careful patient balancing and gentle nudging till it works - then glue it quick! Do the other side. And now glue both of these to the top dowel, 5mm from each button. And your top chain can be glued where balanced - close to the centre. And if you've got the patience to get all of that perfect - you've got the patience to look after children that won't sleep!!

And there you go, a sprinkling of star dust on wonderful wonderful yarn.

Teeny Tiny Pixie Mits

2012-07-29T18:30:00.000+01:00

For a preemi or very newborn, some little pixie style mits to keep hands warm or face scratch free. If new hands are so teeny tiny the mits dont stay on then lace some ribbon or icord through the eyelets.

Using a slim DK (you know, the ones that say they are but you really wonder how!) and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 20
rows 1-6 - K1 P1 to end
row 7 - K2TOG YO to end
row 8 - purl
row 9-14 - stocking stitch
row 15 - K3 K2TOG to end (if now you realise you forgot the last YO on row 7 then end with a K2 K2TOG instead!)
row 16 - purl
row 17 - repeat row 15
row 18 - purl
row 19 - K2 K2TOG to end
row 20 - purl
row 21 - knit
row 22 - purl
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and mattress stitch the seam.

Basket Case Coasters

2012-07-01T21:15:00.002+01:00

A simple basketweave in the centre, edged with crochet to give a ripple, makes this a very simple but textured double sided coaster.

Using 4mm needles and DK wool (I used sirdar escape for a gentle colour change...

Cast on 20
rows 1-5 - K5, P5, K5, P5
rows 6-11 - P5, K5, P5, K5
rows 12-17 - K5, P5, K5, P5
repeat rows 6-17
On row 29, cast off as you go until you get to the last stitch....

Instead of pulling yarn through this one stitch now becomes your crochet stitch. Transfer the remaining stitch from the knitting needle to a 3.5mm crochet needle. Single crochet (UK) in each stitch around the 4 edges of the coaster.

On the second round, in the first stitch single crochet and then chain 3, then single crochet in the next stitch (creating a bump). Repeat these two combinations until you complete the round. Slip a stitch to connect the last stitch into the first bump, and pull yarn through.

And there you go. Beautifully textured, but bizarrely simples! You might wish to block it out to 4.25" x 4.25" or keep it with a bit of tiny rustic curl.

Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop

2012-06-04T21:43:00.002+01:00

For an 8" x 4" x 2.5" brick...

Using DK wool (I used Wendy Mode, a triple helix for interesting but simple colour variation) and 4mm needles...

Base
Leaving a long cast-on tail (40cm or so), cast on 42 stitches.
Knit in garter stitch for 24 rows, casting off with a long tail on the last one.

Sides (make 2)
Leaving another long cast-on tail, cast on 15 stitches
row 1 - P2, K4, P3, K4, P2
row 2 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
row 3 - P2, 4-st TC, P3, 4-st TC, P2
row 4 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
repeat rows 1-4 eight more times and cast off.

Feature
Imagine the following pattern in 7 columns;

5 stitches of reverse stockinette
12 stitches of left purl cable (half stockinette, half reverse stockinette)
5 stitches of reverse stockinette
12 stitches of twisted cable (stockinette)
5 stitches of reverse stockinette
12 stitches of right purl cable (half reverse stockinette, half stockinette)
5 stitches of reverse stockinette

Rows 1 & 2 are your staple right and wrongside rows to repeat unless stated. The 12-st RPC and 12-st LPC are on an 11 row repeat, and the 12-st TC is on a 14 row repeat.

Cast on 56 stitches
row 1 - P5, K6, P11, K12, P11, K6, P5
row 2 - K5, P6, K11, P12, K11, P6, K5
row 3 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, 12-st TC, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 15 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 17 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 27 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 31 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 39 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 45 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 51 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 59 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 65 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 71 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

Continue until row 75, or until it will comfortably wrap round two long sides and one short side of the brick, and cast off.

Make Up:
First of all, to protect your knitting, wrap an old tea towel or facecloth around the brick, stitching to secure it. Neatness is not a priority in terms of cotton colour and stitch size as you ultimately won't see it, but the smoother the joins the better.

Using mattress stitch, along the long edge of the Feature piece, stitch the long edge of the Side piece, and then the short edge, and the long edge. Do this on the other long edge of the Feature piece with the second Side piece. You will have a 'pocket' of knitting for the brick to sit in.

With the 'pocket' around the brick, mattress stitch the Base to the enclose the brick in. Weave in ends. And 'stop' your door!

Key:

12-st LPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to front, P6, K6 from cable needle
12-st RPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to back, K6, P6 from cable needle
12-st TC: slip 12 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle
4-st TC: slip 4 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle

Ruffley Cushion Cover

2012-05-23T13:30:00.001+01:00

If you were concerned pattern uploading on here had become slow, fear not. We moved house and unfortunately the yarn was the 'easiest' thing to pop in a box first, and then too many other things involving paint and drills and other manly items sort of took over. But don’t panic, the yarn box has now been unpacked and the softer furnishings are now in production!

First off, bit of a knit and sew combination….. some dead simple but very effective ruffley cushion covers.

Alongside the yarn you will need, a 17.5” cushion cover in a contrasting colour, around 6’ of ribbon in contrasting colours and widths, and sewing thread in the ribbon and yarn colours. (or if you are feeling even more creative, two 18.5” squares of cotton fabric, a 17” zip, and a sewing machine to make your own cover up)

Using a ruffle/scarf yarn (I used Sirdar Salsa but you could use Rico Can Can or other) and 4mm needles….

Cast on 25 stitches by poking the needle through the yarn close to the edge with the curl coming towards you, leaving a 1.75-2” gap and poking through again. (Your yarn ball may say 8cm/3" which you can try if you want, but I find 1.75-2” more effective).

This gap does not have to be measured perfectly, the more random the more natural the ruffle will look. Depending what size gap you leave will depend on how much yarn you use, a 150g/45m ball could do anywhere between one and two cushions.

Do about 23 rows, knitting odd rows and purling even rows, again, attaching the yarn by poking the needle through near the edge rather than wrapping, leaving the gap of yarn between stitches still. Keep an eye on your ball as you knit to ensure you won't run out mid-row. If you have left more gap and aren't getting as many rows for your yarn as expected, don't worry, 23 rows is a guide and you can make your ruffley stripe on the cushion as large or as small as you like.

Depending how the colouring of your yarn works, if stripes are horizontal along the length like the Salsa you may want to alternate the stripes and so when changing row make sure you twist the yarn to allow purling into the second colour and knitting into the first (like the grey cushion). If you do this, I advise knitting into the darker colour and purling the lighter one – as this is easiest on the eyes/fingers. If your yarn stripes on the vertical or width then colour will alternate automatically for you in a more patchy than stripy manner.

Instead of casting off, use a chunky tapestry needle to thread the yarn end (cut to 18") through the holes made by the needles (a cast off knit style will tighten the width far too much) and sew end down to next row to stop unravelling.

Using pencil or taylors chalk, mark a line parallel to the zip a third of the way down the cushion cover, and another one two thirds down. These are the lines you are going to sew the cast on and cast off edge onto your cover. You are going to need to sew the knit stitches approximately 0.7” apart to evenly space them along the line, this will allow the excess from each 1.75-2” yarn gap between stitches to ruffle as it gets pushed into this space.

Then, depending how many colours and widths of ribbon you have will depend how many and where your next lines go, but draw on and then sew ribbons (you can overlap if you want) as supporting stripes to echo the ruffle stripes. You can also add bows, buttons, sequins or other decorations as you desire.

And there you go… brighten up the room in a quick and simple way.

Beach Hut Tea Cosy

2012-02-06T07:00:00.000+00:00

When it's dreary outside, why not put on the kettle and basque in a quintessential British seaside themed cuppa. Yarn over and knit two together through the back loop ridges create a simple wooden paneling effect on this beach hut tea cosy.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Front (make 2)

Cast on 33 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-8 seven more times
row 37 - knit
row 38 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 39 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 31 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (31 stitches remain)
row 40 - P2TOG, P27, SSP
row 41 - SSK, K25, K2TOG
row 42 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 43 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 25 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (25 stitches remain)
row 44 - P2TOG, P21, SSP
row 45 - SSK, K19, K2TOG
row 46 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 47 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 19 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (19 stitches remain)
row 48 - P2TOG, P17, SSP
row 49 - SSK, K15, K2TOG
row 50 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 51 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 13 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (13 stitches remain)
row 52 - P2TOG, P9, SSP
row 53 - SSK, K7, K2TOG
row 54 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 55 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 7 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (7 stitches remain)
row 56 - P2TOG, P3, SSP
row 57 - SSK, K1, K2TOG
row 58 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 59 - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end (3 stitches remain)

Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

* if you are struggling to get the needle through the right place, insert right hand needle as if to purl the YO and stitch, rotate over the top of the left hand needle clockwise, and it should sit ready to K2TOGtbl. I find this circular wrap motion quicker.

Doors (make 4)

Cast on 10 using contrast colour (turquoise for me)
row 1 - knit
row 2 - [P1, sl1p] repeat to end
repeat rows 1 & 2 twelve more times
Cast off knitwise

Back (handle) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7

row 12a - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
row 13a - K2TOGtbl, K15
row 14a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16a - P14, SSP
row 17a - K2TOGtbl, K13
row 18a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20a - P12, SSP
row 21a - K2TOGtbl, K11
row 22a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24a - P11, PFB
row 25a - KFB, K12
row 26a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28a - P13, PFB
row 29a - KFB, K14
row 30a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32a - P15, PFB
row 33a - knit
row 34a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36a - purl

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 starting with the purl on wrong side continue as below.

row 12b - P17
row 13b - K15, K2TOG
row 14b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16b - P2TOG, P14
row 17b - K13, K2TOG
row 18b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20b - P2TOG, P12
row 21b - K11, K2TOG
row 22b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24b - PFB, P11
row 25b - K12, KFB
row 26b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28b - PFB, P13
row 29b - K14, KFB
row 30b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32b - PFB, P15
row 33b - knit
row 34b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36b - purl

row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off

Roof (make 1)

Cast on 35
row 1 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 4 - knit
row 5 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 6 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 7 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.

Slide knitting to end of needle and save for later.

Cast on 35 on the same needle as waiting knitting, and repeat pattern above (the wrong side will be reversed).

row 1 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 2 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - purl
row 5 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.

Put your right sides together facing inwards and use a third needle to do a 3 needle bind off which will create a subtle coping tile.

Make Up
You might find it easiest if you block and starch the pieces (depends how tight and stiff your gauge is).

Sew the two doors onto each front, and put a button as the door handles. Sew on any other embellishments you have made, such as the life belts or sea shells.

Mattress stitch the sides of the Back(Handle) to the Fronts, and the remaining sides of the fronts to the Back(spout). This will give you a cube outline (and from my photo you will see why starching might be desired).

Sew roof tiles to edges of hut from the inside. Star with the diagonal sides and finish with the back spout and handle sides - these will overlap a little bit so don't stitch edge to edge.

Weave in all ends, and voila!

She Sells Sea Shells on the Sea Shore

2011-12-28T11:00:00.000+00:00

Another 'mini' that is for a project on its way (watch this space) but others may want to use for a multitude of things.

Using DK yarn and 2.5mm needles....

For the larger shell...
Cast on 21
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P3, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, P1, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - K1, [K2TOG] repeat to end
row 10 - P1, slip 4 onto cable needle
wrap yarn around the 4 stitches on cable needle counter clockwise three times
slip back onto needle and P1
row 11 - knit
row 12 - P1, M1P, purl, M1P, P1
row 13 - [K2, KFB] repeat to end, while casting off

For the smaller shell...
Cast on 13
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P2TOG, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1, SSK, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K2TOG, K1
row 6 - P1, sl1, P2TOG, PSSO, P1
wrap yarn around the 3 stitches on needle counter clockwise twice
row 7 - K1, KFB, K1
row 8 - P2, M1P, P2 while casting off

Now as your most likely use for these is applique, then don't bother weaving in the ends but use them to sew onto whatever they are going on.

Mini Life Belt

2011-12-27T16:00:00.000+00:00

This is a little accessory to a project I am currently working on (watch this space). But I thought it would be worth sharing as a 'project' in its own right as could be used in many more ways than originally intended. Maybe to embellish a water scene jumper, decorate a card for someone achieving the RLSS Lifesaving Award, or adorn a beach themed bathroom. (it looks large but is only 1.5 inches, you could adapt smaller by using 3 or 4 rather than 5 stitches and smaller needles and thinner wool but due to i-cord technique is unlikely to be able to successfully adapt it as bigger).

Using two double pointed needles (DPN) as small as you can manage (2.25ish mm) and DK wool...

In red cast on 5*

Knit 4 rows in red using i-cord technique (instead of turning row, slide to end of needle and pull yarn tight to close gap)...

Change to white and knit 5 rows, being careful when changing rows to pull white yarn behind and under the red tail keeping spare yarn held inside the cord...

Change to red (knotting the yarn in the centre of the i-cord to the white yarn at the end of stitch 5 to ensure it pulls across) and knit 5 rows as above...

Keep alternating until 4 blocks of red and 4 blocks of white have been completed. As it is a wide i-cord you may need to massage the cord and give it a vertical tug to make sure the wide joining is not noticeable.

* if you are confident with kitchener stitch then join the two ends together, having done a provisional cast on.

Otherwise; thread the remaining white yarn through the 5 stitches from right to left keeping loose for the moment. Stitch together white and red ends into a circle by catching a red cast on loop and sewing to a white ladder between the stitches you have just sewn (hence keeping it loose to let you see these bits of thread to pick up). Pull tight to close.

Weave in any ends left over by threading down the centre of the i-cord.

Now, using brownish yarn (to represent the rope) and a tapestry needle thread up inside of cord for half the circle (to secure it within the project rather than knotting), coming out halfway through a red section. Take around edge of circle to the next red section placing thumb as a spacer to ensure yarn is loose, and stitch through the outside middle red ladder, tying a two little knots. Take around edge of circle, repeating above, three times. Tie the next knot to the starting yarn and thread back down into cord, weaving the ends in.

Bridge Coasters

2011-12-25T18:45:00.000+00:00

I have named these the Bridge Coasters as they are for my mother and her bridge club, but one could name them the Whist Coasters, Rummie Coasters, or even Snap Coasters! A series of cables and slip stitches leave a raised pattern, one for each card suit.

Using good old DK wool and 4mm needles for all coasters...

Diamond Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - knit
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K5, c2f, K6, c2b, K5
row 20 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 21 - K6, c2f, K4, c2b, K6
row 22 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 23 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 23 - K8, c2f, c2b, K8
row 24 - K9, byif, sl2p, byib, K9
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Heart Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - knit
row 10 - knit
row 11 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 12 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 13 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 14 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 15 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 17 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 22 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 23 - K4, c2f, K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1, c2b, K4
row 24 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Spade Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

* c3b is slip one onto cable needle and hold to back, knit 2, then knit 1 off cable needle.
c2f is slip two onto cable needle and hold in front, knit 1, then knit 2 off cable needle.

Clubs Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 14 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 15 - K5, c2b, c2f, K2, c2b, c2f, K5
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl2p, byib, K6
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Waffled Wheat Cushion

2011-12-21T14:00:00.000+00:00

To sooth away those winter aches and pains why not make your own wheat cushion so you know what natural goodness is in it. Using a very sim[ple six row repeat waffle stitch to give texture and warmth. A perfect present for the festive period.

Using 125g of 12ply wool* (I used Twilleys freedom spirit) and 4mm needles...

Cast on 40
K2 P2 rib for 6 rows
row 7 - purl
row 8 - knit
rows 9 and 11 - K3 P2 to end
rows 10 and 12 - K2 P3 to end

rows 13-78 repeat rows 7-12 eleven times

switch to stockinette for 15 inches

rows 79 and 81 - K3 P2 to end

rows 80 and 82 - K2, P3 to end

row 83 - purl

row 84 - knit

repeat six more times

rows 120-121 - K2 P2 rib twice
row 122 - K2 P2 three times, YO K2TOG, P2 K2 three times, YO P2TOG, K2 P2 three times.
row 123-124 - K2 P2 rib twice
row 125 - K2 P2 while casting off in rib pattern.

Matress stitch the waffle to the stockinette on each side to create the little envelope. Position the buttons on the first ribbing, using the holes on the second ribbing to line up and sew on.

Sew up two cloth rectangles of 100% cotton* about 15 inches x 5 inches and turn inside out (with as small a gap as you can sanely manage) to make the cushion liner. It may be best to wait until you have completed the knitting and measure direct if your guage is often a bit squiffy. Using a funnel pour in about 1250g of buckwheat and pearl barley, you could also add lavender. Hand sew the gap tightly and your cushion is ready to be put in its knitted case.

Now, simply pop him in the microwave for 1 minute. Some advise also putting in a glass of water at the same time to stop the wheat drying out too much. Drape over your aches and pains and warm them away.

* 100% wool or 100% cotton will be fine in your microwave. Anything acryllic will melt and leave you with a big big mess. Please choose your materials carefully. Also consider buttons - don't go for metal ones!

Manly Mini Scarf

2011-11-13T18:45:00.000+00:00

For that man who doesn't want a special hand knitted scarf....

My partner wears a scrappy little thing for work and always gets very very cold outside in thermals and umpteen jumpers. Decided it was time he had something to keep the neck properly warm but still retain his manliness. Its a manly version of a cowl, the ribbing providing practical heat retention and the shortness meaning no long flimsy ends to have to tuck in anywhere. None of the ribbed scarf patterns I found offered stripe options and so decided to tackle it the other way round and do horizontal rather than vertical. I wanted to make the hole without interrupting the colour trail of the wool (vertical ribbed scarves make you leave half the stitches on a neelde and do the other half before returning back and then joining - this would be havock with self striping/varigated yarn). So my horizontal option lets you make the hole via cast on/of without interrupting the colour flow and keeping it all as one part.

Two main stitches used here; stocking (knit right side, purl wrong side) and reverse stocking (purl right side, knit wrong side) in quartuplets of rows, to give a mock ribbing effect equivalent to K4, P4, but it ends up looking softer as the purl takes dominance instead. [right side are odd rows, wrong side are even rows]

Using DK and 4mm needles (I advise using circular to fit stitches on)...

Cast on 105 in blue
rows 1-4 - stocking
rows 5-8 - reverse stocking
rows 9-12 - stocking
rows 13-16 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 17-20 - stocking
rows 21-24 - reverse stocking
rows 25-28 - stocking
rows 29-32 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 33-36 - stocking
rows 37-39 - reverse stocking
row 40 - cast off 15 stitches, knit 90
row 41 - knit 90, turn needles and cast on 15 stitches
rows 42-44 - stocking
rows 45-48 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 49-52 - stocking
rows 53-56 - reverse stocking
rows 57-60 - stocking
rows 61-64 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 64-68 - stocking
rows 69-72 - reverse stocking
rows 73-76 - stocking
rows 77-80 - reverse stocking and cast off

In grey pick up 22 stitches along right hand edge (the bit that splits into two sections)... 2 stitches from each wrong side 'rib', and one at the end of the each section (which will be from right side 'rib').
rows 81-84 - stocking
rows 85-88 - reverse stocking
rows 89-92 - stocking
rows 93-96 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 97-100 - stocking
rows 101-104 - reverse stocking
rows 105-108 - stocking
rows 109-112 - reverse stocking and cast off

In grey pick up 22 stitches along left hand edge... 2 stitches from each right side rib plus the first and last stitch. Follow rows 81-104.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

Knitomatic.com Easy Mobius Cowl
Nebula Designs Ribbed Mini-Scarf

Tree Trunk Tea Cosy (for stainless steel pots)

2011-10-29T18:00:00.000+01:00

I struggled to find a single pattern for a steel tea pot (those 'catering' rather than pretty style types). Rather than getting Gran to change her habit of a lifetime, I created a pattern to fit the cylindrical rather than typical sphere shape for her. Thus the tree trunk tea cosy! This is for a 5" diameter, 4 1/2" high pot (3-4 cups).

This cosy is made up of two flat pieces, a left and right side of the cosy, which get joined at the top in the round for 1/4" before the rounds reducing to create the flat top. I recommend using circular needles all the way through and then you can keep flat 'left' on the wire whilst you knit flat 'right' and then easily join together into the round without dropping stitches etc. There will be a short 1" matress stitch join needed at the bottom where the handle is, and a 3" mattress stitch join needed at the bottom on the spout side.

This pattern is mainly suited to a semi-experienced knitter who enjoys improvising. However, it can be simplified for a less expeirenced knitter - but it will look more angluar and less knarled. If the below talk of knots and thicker/thinner lines terrifies you, I have written the base version here, you will only need to know PSSO, ribbing, matress stitch, knitting in the round, K2TOG, and changing colour. You can adorn it with self knitted embelishments or craft shop items to disguise as necessary! I haven't put any photos up of how different it looks compared to the improvised version as I haven't had time yet to make it twice!

All versions of this follow the base pattern as its starter. The basic concept for the bark look of this tree trunk cosy is that the bark is formed by 3x3 rib to give it its lines. Now in terms of making it look tree-bark-y (technical term huh!) you have two options depending how confident you feel:

Keep it simple, just 3x3 straight ribs. For the basic knitter.
Play around yourself within the rough rules of 3x3 rib and add in thicker/thinner lines or knots as below.

Ok, so to aid understanding of my instructions; for each set of 3x knits I call this a 'rib', 3s or the dominant stripe, and for each set of 3x knit and 3x purl I call this a 'rib set' or 6s (dominant stripe and its partner recessive stripe). As 95% of the bark is knitted flat, when mentioning knits and purls I refer to right side or wrong side - if for that last quarter inch in the round you are keen to continue thicker/thinner lines or knots then adapt the wrong side row instructions for knitting in the round (swap knits for purls and vice versa).

Thicker/thinner lines

Work in pairs of changes - for every increase you do in one 'rib', you are best to do a decrease in the next 'rib'. For the first row (right side) KFB into the middle K of the 'rib', P3 and then K1 K2TOG for the next 'rib' and P3 again. Then for 3 (or an odd number of rows) work with this rib set as a 4x3x2x3 rather than 3x3x3x3. Return to the normal 3x3 (on right side) by K2TOG in the middle two K of the 'rib' and KFB into the first K of the next knit 'rib'. You can always make this a more dominant change of thickness by adding more KFBs and/or K2TOG and ammending the ?x3x?x3 rib set as appropriate.

Knots

For a knot you will insert a recessive 'stripe' into the middle of a dominant stripe and then reduce it. The size of the 'stripe' can vary and will always start with two stitches in row 2 and increase, before decreasing back to row 2 size and then removing the 'stripe' all together - this will make it a circle or knot (hence rcessive 'stripe' in inverted commas).

So, for basic small knot, in the 3 'rib' subsitute the following rows for the simple 3, starting on a wrong side row:
row i - P1, PFB, P1
row ii - K1, KFPB PFKB, K1
row iii - P2, KFB KFB, P2
row iv - K2, P4, K2
row v - P2, K4, P2
row vi - K2, P2TOG P2TOG, K2
row vii - P2, K2TOG, P2
row viii - K1, s1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row ix - return to the simple 3

Or you can do a simple blemish by doing a YO K2TOG in the middles of a bunch of knits.

Remember: bark is nobly bobbly and bulges in places - therefore the tea cosy does not need to fit like cling film maintaining the shape of the pot perfectly all round the circumference. Additional stitches in rows can bulge as you like and bump away from the pot irregularly. If anything, any mistakes you make not maintaining your regimented 3x3 rib will look better!

Once the tree trunk is knitted, you can start to decorate and adorn as you feel best suited to - knit, crochet, felt, button/bead or shop bought. I used my ivy leaf cord pattern, instead of weaving in the ends I used those yarns to sew a little stitch to loosely hold onto the cosy, and some grass. I also placed a curved oak leaf onto the top to disguise the bump of the lid handle.

Why not try for example:

grass (a 4 stitch icord, decrease to 3 stitch, 2 stitch then cast off to make point on end)
a variety of crochet flowers, picot flowers, teeny tiny flowers, or knitted tiny flowers
oak leaves
a bunny
an owl
spider
ladybirds
birds

If you follow the improvise pattern then these cosies are like gem stones - each is a unique product, and natural flaws become more special. Would love to see the different scenes you come up with!

Ivy Leaf Cord

2011-10-18T17:24:00.003+01:00

A quick little number either to make bottle dressings like the leaf or lavender ones, or for more adventurous Christmas wreath like decorations.

Using any wool and the thinnest double pointed needles you can muster without snapping! (don't forget the K2TOG tug tight)
I used DK and 2.25mm....

Cast on 23 stitches
row 1 - K2, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K5, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K5, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K2
row 2 - purl whole row
row 3 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K3, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K3, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row 4 - purl 8, turn leaving remaining 3 stitches on needle
row 5 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1, turn leaving remaining 3 stitches on needle
row 6 - purl 6 to end
row 7 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row 8 - purl
row 9 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1

Now you can use these 3 stitches to i-cord, sliding along to end of needle, knit, pulling thread tight across the back, sliding across to the end of the needle again, and pulling tight.

This is the point where I say.... if you are thinking of making a wreath or a string of ivy... I advise having 3 double pointed needles, and using the wool from both ends of the ball.

Leaving the ivy leaf and 11 stitches of i-cord on needle 1, start a new ivy leaf from the other end of the ball of wool using needles 2 and 3, after 7 stitches of i-cord K2TOG leaving 2 stitches and cut yarn removing from ball. Hold needle 2 in front of needle 1 and knit the stitches together using active yarn from first leaf (like a double bind off), the stitches 1 and 2 of the needle 2 leaf with first 2 stitches of needle 1 leaf then the one remaining of needle 1 leaf and continue i-cording as normal.

Add in more ivy leaves as above, knit the 2 stitches first to put the leaf on right, or knit 1 of needle 1 and then the 2 stitches to put the leaf on left.

Lavender cord and bottle topper

2011-10-01T14:00:00.000+01:00

Following on from the mint leaf cord and bottle topper to top off my mint vodka, a complimentary lavender option seemed appropriate. Again, no seams, all in one piece. I don't expect everyone is out brewing lavender vodka but it could also be used for bathroom related products!

Unlike the leaf, it is all done in an i-cord style - sliding the stitches to the other end of a double pointed needle which in effect makes it knitting in the round.

So, first for the cord...
Using two 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...

Cast on 3
row 1 - knit
row 2 - K1, [YO,YO, K1]
row 3 - KFB [YO, YO, KFB]
row 4 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 5 - K2TOG (remembering to drop the YOs)
row 6 - knit

Give what you have knitted so far a light tug and it will expand the YOs and look a bit lacey and a bit loopy (don't pull too hard and loose the loops totally!).

Continue to knit i-cord, once i-cord is long enough to wrap round bottle in a loose 'tear drop' shape, then K1, pick up a top stitch from row 5 of the i-cord and K2TOG (middle stitch plus stitch you picked up) and K1. Do 8 more rows of i-cord. Now time to do the final blossom. *

row 7 - KFB [YO, YO, KFB]
row 8 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 9 - K2TOG (remembering to drop row 8's YOs) [YO, YO, K2TOG]
row 10 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 11 - knit
thread remaining yarn through last 3 stitches.

Weave in both ends up the centre of the blossom being careful not to pull too tight and flatten the pointed ends, and pull into the centre of the i-cord through to the middle of the loop.

And for the lavender topper

Using four 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...

Cast on 24 stitches, 8 per needle
rounds 1 - 7 [K2 P2] rib
round 8 - knit
round 9 - [K1, K2TOG] (you will have to slip stitches from one needle to the next to allow the K2TOG)
round 10 - knit
round 11 - K1, K2TOG
round 12 - K2TOG until last stitch
round 13 - K2TOG
Place remaining 3 stitches on one needle and do 11 rows of i-cord. Then follow blossom pattern rows 7 - 11.

Leaf cord and bottle topper

2011-09-30T21:00:00.000+01:00

I wanted to jazz up some home made liquor as a present - how better than to adorn it than with knitting?! This option is a mint vodka in a one-glass wine bottle so I prepared an i-cord with mint leaves on each end - all knitted in one piece (no seams!). I am also working on a lavender vodka and aiming to do lavender ended i-cord... watch this space! This is perfect because it takes a matter of minutes and only a smidgen of your stash yarn. You can adapt it to the right size for whatever bottle/jar/item you wrap it around. Hey, you can even ammend the beggining and end and be more creative than my leaf and lavender - let me know how you get on! Christmas is sorted for hundreds of years with a variety of knitted up drinks, preserves, bath products and so on! Enjoy!

So, first for the cord...
Using two 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...
Make slip knot
row 1 - P1
row 2 - KFBF - Knit in the front, without sliding stitch off needle knit in the back, and then the front again before sliding off (1 stitch becomes 3)
row 3 - P3
row 4 - K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K1
row 5 - P5
row 6 - K1, M1R, K3, M1L, K1
row 7 - P7
row 8 - K7
row 9 - P7
row 10 - SKP, S2KP, K2TOG
row 11 - P1, P1tbl, P1
row 12 - K1, K1tbl, K1

Now knit a 3 stitch i-cord - instead of turning after row 12, slide stitches to the other end of the needle, and knit, pulling thread tightly behind. Keep knitting and sliding, knitting and sliding and the cord will look like the type you get on knitting dollies.

Once i-cord is long enough to wrap round bottle in a loose 'tear drop' shape, then K1, pick up a top stitch from row 5 of the i-cord and K2TOG (middle stitch plus stitch you picked up) and K1. Do 4 more rows of i-cord. Now time to do the final leaf (back to turning work each row rather than sliding). *

row 13 - K1, K1tbl, K1
row 14 - P1, Ptbl, P1
row 15 - K1, [M1R, YO, K1tbl, YO, M1L all in one stitch], K1
row 16 - P7
row 17 - K7
row 18 - P7
row 19 - K1, SKP, K1, K2TOG, K1
row 20 - P5
row 21 - K1, S2KP, K1
row 22 - P3
row 23 - S2KP
Cut yarn and thread through last stitch.

Weave in both ends up the leaf being careful not to pull too tight and flatten the pointed ends, and pull into the centre of the i-cord through to the middle of the loop.

Voila! A pretty present presto!

* if that all sounds too complicated, you have several options - continuing as simple i-cord and then moving onto the leaf. Partway through weaving your ends in then use the yarn to pop a small stitch joining both ends of the i-cord to hold together. Or, you can keep doing your i-cord much longer and once piece is knitted then tie in either a knot or bow around the bottle. The world is your oyster.
And for the leaf topper

Using four 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...

Cast on 24 stitches, 8 per needle
rounds 1 - 7 [K2 P2] rib
round 8 - knit
round 9 - [K1, K2TOG] (you will have to slip stitches from one needle to the next to allow the K2TOG)
round 10 - knit
round 11 - K1, K2TOG
round 12 - K2TOG until last stitch
round 13 - K2TOG
Place remaining 3 stitches on one needle and do 5 rows of i-cord. Then follow leaf pattern rows 13 - 23.

Bobble Lace Scarf

2011-07-23T20:52:00.004+01:00

Ok, so this isn't a new pattern, it's one I did nearly a year ago, but still worth putting up here whilst I refine my new pattern with the remaining ball of pompom yarn!

I used Rico Design Pompon Print yarn and rather than doing the plain looking chunky scarf advertised in the design on its label I wanted one of those whispy evening scarves I'd seen. So ignore the K2 between each bobble written on its label to keep it whispy. To cast on, simply loop the thread between the bobbles and twist before putting on the needle. In three simple rows you have knitted your scarf.

Using 8mm needles (circular helpful due to knitting scarf length wise) and pompom yarn...

Cast on 85 (this counts as a row)
Knit one row
Knit with 3 bobbles between each stitch
Instead of doing a knit cast off for the final row (you don't want another chunky row) slip each stitch but then cast off. (so, slip stitch, slip stitch, pass first stitch over second, slip and so on...)