TT Rex

Material: 3mm Acrylic
Router Bit: Amana Tool 51441 – 1/16″ Spiral-o-Flute upcut from Toolstoday.com
CNC Router: Torque CNC 9060
Spindle Speed: 12000RPM
Horizontal Cutting Speed: 5mm/sec
Vertical Cutting Speed: 10mm/sec with ramping

Plans from MakeCNC.com

Kerfing

I made this video while I was creating a vertical garden for an article in The Shed magazine.

Lost the files for a while (and forgot I had shot the video!!), but here it is at long last!

Plans from MakeCNC.com

Uses the 45705 V-Groove 60º x 1/2″ Dia. x 1/4″ Shank Router Bit and the 46200 Solid Carbide Spiral Plunge 1/8″ Dia x 1/2″ Cut Height x 1/4″ ShankDown-Cut, both from Toolstoday.com

For better or worse, here ’tis.

Australian Animals CNC

(A slight delay in the SundayCNC post!)

The Australian Animal series, from MakeCNC.com (scroll down a bit to the Australian Animals)

A really nice set of designs, with some real standout patterns.  By far and away, the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is the most impressive, at least in my opinion.  However, it was the Echidna that I had to make a second time, because the first was ‘requisitioned’ by one of my work colleagues, as being “too cute”.

I really like the delicate magpie, and the facial (and mouth) detail of the Tasmanian Devil.  But I’m sure everyone will have their own favourites.

I would say these are more advanced patterns, as they take a bit more effort to assemble, but slowly and surely each can be bought together.  I occasionally shaved some pieces down just a little to loosen the fit, as I was gluing them, rather than leaving the models so they could be disassembled at a later stage.

Routed on the Torque CNC 9060, using the 1/16″ straight, 2 flute 45190 cutter from Toolstoday.com, running at around 40mm/sec, and 12000RPM.  Each cut from 3mm MDF, with most being able to fit either 2, sometimes 3 to a 900×600 sheet.  Except for the Cockatoo – that took pretty much an entire sheet on its own.  Of course, there is no reason why you cannot go bigger if you choose – cutting from 6mm, 12mm (or thicker) MDF.  And you don’t actually need a CNC to make use of the patterns.  A laser and/or router are all very well, but you are not limited to computer controlled machinery.  Print out the designs and stick them on stock timber, and you could cut them out with a scrollsaw or bandsaw.

The animals in the series are:

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo
Magpie
Kookaburra
Emu
Echidna
Bilby
Frilled Neck Lizard
Salt Water Crocodile
Dingo
Wallaby
Wombat
Kangaroo with Joey
Tasmanian Devil
Koala Walking
Koala in Tree
Platypus

A fun series, with some real standout designs.

SS115 Here be Dragons CNC

Design from MakeCNC.com

Episode 112 Sabretooth

Plans from MakeCNC

The following video was taken and edited by Steve Morton, from the Scientific Imaging Service within the Faculty of Science, Monash University.  Used with permission.

Good product, great results, and a very realistic price to boot.  What’s not to love?

The template used here is the Yin Yang.  I did try the Clownfish, but have to come back to that for a second attempt (got my order of steps wrong!)  I’ve also just started on the Monarch Butterfly, which is a lot easier than the clownfish (despite being massive in comparison), and fun.

You can read and read about a topic, watch all the videos, follow the forums and talk with experts, but I can still guarantee the first time you pick up a chisel and try to make a square object round on a lathe, you’ll discover in practice what a kickback (or chisel dig-in) is ALL about!

You can learn as much as you can from all other avenues (and that is a good thing), but the real learning curve comes from biting the bullet and trying it out for yourself.  However, jumping in the deep end without RTFM is fraught as well.  Tried that yesterday, and the result was, well, a learning curve.  No real harm – bit of time was wasted, and some scraps of timber, so that could be considered well worth the price.  As another saying goes (stolen from its association with fishing): “a bad day woodworking still beats a good day at work” (Of course you’d want to add a small suffix to that “so long as you finish with as many body parts as you started with!”)

Tried out the MLIS (multiple layer inlay stencils) from Tarter Woodworking, and while I didn’t finish with a result, the templates proved how well they would work once I refined my processes.  Trying to do it the first time and on camera just makes it that much more difficult!  I also started with a pattern that was perhaps a little more complicated than I should have, so the second round will be with a simpler form.

So the majority of the video footage is destined for the editing floor.  You can see a bit of timelapse footage that is left over.

It was a good test run of the multi-camera setup, and particularly the new audio recording arrangements.  Running a couple of high-end mics (NTG-3 and NT5 Rode mics) through a Beachtek DXA-HDV gave some great results.

Rode NTG-3

Rode NT5 Matched Pair

Beachtek DXA-HDV

Very seamless and easy way to purchase blades, brakes, inserts, even entire machines (both SawStop and MiniMax).

The blade purchased will be the subject of an upcoming review.

Details of delivery address and payment details have been removed from the video, for obvious reasons!!

Had a few teething problems, mainly around getting the print to adhere to the bed.

Removed the aluminium bed and replaced with glass. A quick wipe of the surface with a glue stick, and we were away laughing!

Print completed

Ready for removal

Skull box completed, ready for a brain

Hooks to hold the lid closed.  The rear hanging point has since been removed (bandsawn and sanded).

Ouch!

Flip top lid!

BRAINS!!!!!

Original files sourced from Thingiverse

DadoStop

Had a look at the blade(s) after the fact, and found out where the significant cascading sound comes from when the brake activates.  12 separate tungsten carbide teeth ripped loose of the blade.  Most presumably are due to the spacer blades not being in direct contact with the aluminium brake, so were able to move when the blade was (rapidly) decelerating, and knocked the teeth off as they slid past.

It is a good effort, stopping that much spinning steel on a dime!

Episode 103 Shed Tour

Finally!  A tour of the shed, warts and all.  It is still a work in progress, but I guess, it will always be somewhat of a work in progress!

Music by Lis Viggers

Have shot this quick walking tour so you can see the setup that I have put in place.

As mentioned, the system is sourced through Professional Woodworkers Supplies, and it makes it very easy to create a professional looking setup around the workshop.

So enjoy Episode 96 – 20000 photos taken over 5 days documenting the creation of Stu’s Shed V3.0

Episode 100 SawStop Assembly

Episode 100 Assembling the SawStop

Episode 99 Shieldcrete

Episode 99 Epoxy Floor Treatment: Shield-crete

Day 5

Episode 96e Shed Build Day 5 Timelapse

Conclusion of a Saga!

Floor 1 Acid Treatment

Episode 99a Floor Treatment – Acid Etch

Day 4

Episode 96d Shed Build Day 4 Timelapse

Episode 98 Upgrading Jaws to Nova Infinity

Episode 98 Upgrading Jaws to Nova Infinity

Day 3 Timelapse

Shed Build – Day 3

Episode 97

Episode 97 Upgrading the original SuperNova2 to be a SuperNova2 Infinity chuck, with quick-change jaws

Here is a quick look at a way of using a power tool (drill) and a bucket of ice, along with a Spin Chill bit (from SpinChill.com who I found through Kickstarter (crowd funding)) to get a bottle or can to drinking temperature in 60 seconds.

Shed Arrival

SSYTC063 The Shed Arrives

All 1.6 tonnes of Australian Steel.  There is a bit more to come – a roller door that will arrive later today, and the PA doors, the windows and insulation is currently at the yard waiting for the erectors.

So now we wait again, hope for a long run of fine weather so the other sheds in the queue get done quickly.  It is going to be interesting to see how this pile of miscellaneous steel shapes become a shed.  The pile looks very small compared to the resulting structure!

The Slab

SSYTC062 Snapshot of the Slab Pour

Episode 95C The New Slab

Episode 95C The New Slab

Episode 95B Finishing Preparation

Episode 95B The New Slab
Part B – Finishing Slab Preparation

Shot on a GoPro Hero3 Black, 720p on a 5 second time lapse

Episode 95A The New Slab
Part A – Clearing the block

Shot on a GoPro Hero3 Black, 720p on a 10 second time lapse

6 hours in 1.5 minutes!

Episode 94

Episode 94 Dr Kapex

Testing the true depth of cut of the Festool Kapex.

Also see (briefly) the Kapex stand in action, and the Promac generator.

Trying out the Amana Tool Profile Pro from Toolstoday.com, with a rebate cutter, then one of the profile cutters.

Photos are in an earlier post, but you can’t really see just how smooth the finish was, straight off the tool.

Cutters were changed without having to remove the cutter block from the spindle moulder – very easy system that positively aligns, and restrains the blades in the cutter block.

The starter set comes with 7 different profiles (including a straight rebate), but there are 137(!!!) different profiles to choose from for this cutter block, many costing around $US26.

SSYTC058 Profile Pro on the C26 Genius

Funnily enough, I was quite tentative about it the first time – we are talking about an extremely violent reaction at massive speed.

However, in practice it was a lot quieter and more gentle than I was expecting (but just as fast!)  It was amazing just how easy it is to do something stupid, and how capable the SawStop is in allowing you to be able to get away without permanent disability.

You don’t change your work practices (you remain working as safe as ever) – noone wants to set it off even so.  Like airbags in a car, you’d not want to ever see them deployed, but if you did, you would be most grateful they were there.

So here is the video of the very first time I got to set off the SawStop brake.

SSYTC057 1st Hands-on Experience of the SawStop

Thanks to the guys from Gabbett Machinery / I Wood Like for letting me give the machine a workout!

A few looked like they would be ideal for powering a belt-driven machine, or a small workshop line shaft.

One I particularly looked at was indeed a motor that originally drove a tablesaw.

It is a 2.5HP petrol engine by the Sandwich Manufacturing Co, from 1926. It has a magneto ignition, and runs around 425RPM

It may be a 4 stroke, but when you watch the video, the movement of the lever under the magneto unit, and the valve operation is just how slow the firing rate is when the engine is idling.

A simple, clever regulating system means it just ticks over, firing the piston only when the motor slows below a certain speed. An impressively fuel efficient system. As load increases, the firing rate also automatically increases.

The ‘pot’ of boiling water is the cooling system. Instead of a radiator, the water is allowed to boil away, with the energy required to transition the water to steam being an effective method to pull heat out of the engine. Of course you have to monitor the water and oil level! The oil drip-feeds the engine, with just the required amount gravity fed in each stroke, which then works down past each surface needing to be lubricated.

An impressive unit from a bygone age.

SSYTC056 A ‘new’ tablesaw engine

Dragon

SSYTC055 Routing the Japanese Dragon (CNC)

Generator

SSYTC054 Also sprach Zarathustra

Promac GTO68E 6.8kVA Generator

ManSpace

SSYTC053 Carving out a niche

The CNC Shark Pro from Carbatec. Carving the ManSpace logo in a piece of walnut.

SSYTC052 More GoPro Trials

The second jig is a skate jig.  It uses the same type of motor (30 RPM at 12V) driving directly on one of the wheels.  The camera was used to get the shot, so was notably absent, but is fixed via a tripod screw through the hole that can be seen near the battery.  This jig is either used to run on a smooth surface or track.  It will be interesting to see how easy it is to create a track that it can follow. Vibration is much less of a problem, but getting overhead shots is its limitation.

SSYTC051 More GoPro Trials

There are commercial solutions, but they often can operate over 1m or so, and/or are prohibitively expensive. Cheaper (non motorised) ones are out there – will keep searching for better options.

May not have been able get any real workshop time in, but that meant I did have time to keep thinking of different approaches to filming, and the integration of the GoPro.

You’ve seen the fly-rig timelapse, and an adaption to the setup has potential to work on a dolly skate as well, so it can be self powered.

Another idea I’ve had, is how to mount the camera directly on a wood turning chisel.

GoPro Turning Chisel Mount

Without question I need better lighting for the scene to avoid hot spots – the very limited space I am currently working in does not allow that luxury.  So excusing that (and my technique!), this gives a point of view like this:

SSYTC050 Forced Intermission

Shot at 240FPS, the first portion is at full speed, the second is slowed to 1/20th speed.

It goes to show that having a shed designed to survive excessive conditions is particularly important – after all, I have been through a shed collapse before (and it never happens when it is warm and sunny).  Having cast iron tools out in the elements is not exactly good for them!  I will get into more detail on Shed Safe in the near future – one way to add confidence to a shed purchase that it is fit for the conditions.

But back to what I was actually doing today – continuing trialing the time lapse capabilities of the GoPro.  I ended up shooting the following footage of the storm rolling in – if I had been more aware of what was coming, I’d have started filming earlier!

SSYTC049 Four Seasons in One Day

The occasional black flicker are birds flying through the view.  One frame actually caught a flash of lightning.

Soon this view will look rather different.  That little shed’s days are numbered (just not quite sure what that number is yet!)  The way the weather is going, it may go without any assistance!!

Episode93

Episode 93 Installing a Gas Log Fire

Where it comes to the reasons for drilling holes, the reasons can be many, and varied – I’m sure you can think of dozens of reasons without me making a list.

One of those reasons is as a pilot hole for screws.  This can be to prevent the timber splitting from having a screw boring in, pushing the timber aside to the point that the surrounding timber cannot withstand the pressure. Some timbers being a lot more susceptible than others.  Alternately, (and not necessarily exclusively), it can be because the force required to drive the screw into the timber is more than the screw’s torsional strength.  We’ve all had screw heads shear off, or the driver cam-out, burring the head.

What happens to the head of the screw is what we are talking about here.  After drilling a pilot hole, the screw head can be treated a number of ways.  If it is a dome or similar, it is designed to sit proud of the surface, so job done.  But often that is not the case, or desirable.  You can drive the screw home, then push a bit further, to have the head pulled into the timber.  Works in some cases, but can lead to an unsightly crush zone around the head, or if the timber is not strong enough, you can destroy the wooden thread you have just cut with the screw and then you might as well have used a nail for all the strength you’ve gotten.  If the timber is too dense, you can again burr the drive or the screw head.

The solution is to countersink.  This is normally a two stage operation – after drilling the hole, you then pick up you countersink tool to create the recess for the screw.  These can be used with a drill, or like the old Triton countersink, be done with a handtool.

In the past, I have been known to pick up a second drill bit that is the diameter of the screw head, and use that to create the countersink.

If you have a lot to do, drilling the pilot hole and countersinking in one step saves a lot of time.  There are a few bits on the market that can achieve this, such as this one from Amana Tool

These are drill bits, fitted into a holder with carbide tipped countersink.  You can drill and countersink to your heart’s content.  Even if the drill bit blunts or breaks, it can be easily replaced and the carbide countersink will keep on cutting.

These are much more convenient than the two step operation, and in a CNC machine, depth is controlled by the program, not by the human user.  Where you are using them free-hand, it can be easy to be a bit inconsistent in hole depth, so the screw is a still a little proud, or becomes fully recessed below the surface (and the countersunk area is a larger diameter than is necessary).  If your intention is to fully bury the screw, then fill the resulting hole with a flush-cut dowel, then no problem – the inconsistent depth is a non-issue.

But what about using them freehand (as in handheld drill), when you do want the depth consistent (which would be a majority of the time I’d hesitate to say)?

For the rare few with a surviving Triton drill, you are fine – very comprehensive, built in depth stop.

For the rest, well Amana Tool has a solution for you.  Build an adjustable depth stop into the countersink bit.  What’s more, ensure that it can be adjusted independently of setting the drill bit length/replacement of drill bit.

The depth stop has quite a range, so you can set it anywhere between having the countersink just cut the surface for the smallest screw head (and less), right through to being able to fully recess the screw head below the surface.  Obviously, because you have that range you can cater for a number of different diameter heads, and different thicknesses.

Plenty of chip clearance as you can see, and the hex bolt in the photo above is the height adjustment.

This gives you great consistency, hole after hole without having to use the eyechrometer, or having a piece of tape stuck to the bit as a crude depth stop.

However, you do have to consider the material you are drilling into – will it be affected by the spinning depth stop – be this any scratches, or heat effects from the friction?  You could use tape or similar where the hole will be drilled, even a moveable thin plastic plate with an oversized hole in the right place, and compensate for this extra thickness in the height adjustment.  That would be pretty effective.

Or you could get the non-marring carbide tipped countersinking with adjustable depth stop and thrust bearing bit from Amana Tool.  Ok, it is not quite called that, but that describes the bit pretty well.  Just call it the No-Mar Countersink

So what do we have here?  Well it is a carbide-tipped countersink.  It has an adjustable depth stop.  The depth-stop is free-spinning on a thrust bearing, and it has chip clearance and the ability to adjust the depth stop independently of the drill bit. If you look closely at the final picture above, you can see a semicircle just to the left, and behind the bit.  That was caused by the previous height-adjustable countersink.

This one, as the depth-stop touches the surface, the depth-stop stops spinning minimising the amount of friction heat and scratches in the surface.  You could again go one step further, and carefully hold the depth stop so it isn’t spinning even when it touches the surface, but just keep fingers clear of the bit.

So that’s it, a range of countersinks, Amana Tool brand from Toolstoday.com

If you want to see them in action, I even shot a quick video for you. Don’t shoot me on the quality of photos or video – circumstances are still very much in flux (resolving soon, knock on wood)   Drill is the Festool CXS btw.

SSYTC048 Who says drill bits are boring?

On the lathe, there wasn’t enough light, but I have some new ones worked out for when I am filming for real – the shed will look like it is residing in the near vicinity of the sun, and will be about as hot, but it will be good for any high speed shots.  Obviously, I won’t use those lights all the time, or even at full intensity, but they will be good when they are needed.

The GoPro is running at 240fps (frames per second), slowed to 12fps for the first test, and slowed to 25fps for the second (the lathe).  The lathe was running at 1000RPM.

SSYTC047 GoPro High Speed Test

Related articles

• GoPro (stusshed.com)

It was also being filmed for the forums, so any comments were directed to that camera.

SSYTC046 Robbo’s baby lathe

Episode 92A Enter the Dado

A short (approx 5 min) version of the dado video, on the Amana Tool Dado from Toolstoday.com

Episode 92 Amana Tool Dado Blade

Episode 92 Amana Tool Dado Blade

Click here to see the blade at Toolstoday.com  Don’t worry that the blade is not blue – the photo has not been updated yet to include their latest coating that is now standard on their blades.

Episode 91 Amana Tool Melamine Blade

Episode 91 Amana Tool Melamine Blade

A blade designed to cut double sided melamine, by Amana Tool.
Available from Toolstoday.com

Episode 90 Woodshow 2012

Episode 90 Woodshow 2012

Episode 89 Woodshow Preview

Episode 89 Woodshow Preview

A whimsical movie ‘preview’ of the wood show, Melbourne 2012

20121020-170825.mov

SSYTC044 The Stan Band

Stan, Theo and others with an impromptu jam session at the wood show.

Episode 88 Pneumatics in the Workshop

Episode 88 Pneumatics in the Workshop

A brief discussion of compressed air in the workshop, and a look at a very flexible option!

Episode 87 DVR Remote

Episode 87 DVR Remote

Upgrading and using the Nova DVR XP with the Remote and Retro kits

Stusshed-Episode86CommencingAProject

Episode 86 Commencing a Project
Slideshow created in Keynote on the iPad
Music by Rogue Traders, used with permission.

Merry Christmas 2011

SSYTC043 Merry Christmas!

Stusshed-Episode85KallenshaanLaserPenTurning

Episode 85 Kallenshaan Laser Pen Turning

Stusshed-Episode84TorqueRouterSander

Episode 84 Torque Router Sander

Stusshed-Episode83NovaDVRXP

Episode 83 Nova DVR XP
This is NOT a video about good lathe technique! It is a bit of a look at how good the DVR XP is in the hands of an amateur.

Episode 82 Work Sharp

Episode 82 Work Sharp

Stusshed-Episode80BrandingTheBrand

Episode 80 Branding the Brand

Never really felt any real interest in working with concrete/tile etc, or owning a tool capable of doing so….until now that is.

This tool has two setups – a shrouding for cutting, and a second for grinding/smoothing. Both lend two significant advantages: dust control and operation control.

Tile/Concrete Cutter

For cutting/grout-line grinding etc, the tool is held on a sled that can also engage the Festool/Protool rails and controls the depth-of-cut.  The orange-shield can be flicked open during grinding to see the end of the blade so you can stop right on a point when needed.  The orange shield is just that – extra shielding, and improves the dust collection.  The dust control doesn’t need much discussion – you cut, and the dust goes away.  What is normally a very dusty operation (dry cutting) is instead rendered dust-free.  The use of the Autoclean Vac is a particularly good idea – the amount of concrete dust the system collects would completely block a filter with a thick crust very quickly.

Dust-Free Concrete Cutting

From this angle, you can see the grinder component, and that the guide/shield is an attachment.

Blades

Some of the blades available – check out the kerf on the bottom one!

Grinding the Groutline

It will cut pretty straight when used hand-held, or dead straight when used with the Festool/Protool rail.

The Big Brother

And if you need more than the standard unit, there is also a big brother on its way.

Polisher

If you’ve finished with cutting, perhaps a polished finish would be in order.  Once again dust free, and where it comes to control, the last thing you want is the edge of the surface grinding blade digging into the surface. (The equivalent of a belt sander doing damage if not controlled properly.)

Surface Treatment

Other than the powerful surface polisher blade visible here, there is the disk around the outside that can be set to a specific height to prevent edge dig-ins. Just inside that ring is a ring of brushes to control dust leak.

Real Smooth Shave

Grinding, polishing dust free – sounds like the way to do these jobs!

SSYTC041 The Angle Grinder Grows Up

If I had one of these, I’d have a very smooth/shiny shed floor!!

The Autoclean (with superflex hose)

Demoing the Machine

The cleaning cycle can be dialed in so it happens at a frequency that suits the job being done.  If doing a lot of heavy sanding of a powdery surface, you want a very frequent cleaning cycle, and it can become as infrequent as once every 2 1/2 minutes, or off altogether.

SSYTC040 Well that sucks

The cleaning cycle does disrupt the suction, but it is very quick so it is not an issue.  There are a couple of parts to the cleaning.  The airflow is momentarily reversed to blow through the filter, and at the same time there is a valve that literally thumps directly above the filter.

That is the theory – in practice I almost jumped out of my skin the first time the cleaning cycle activated! It is surprisingly violent (although it makes sense when you normally see a filter covered in caked plaster, MDF dust etc, just how hard it would be to get it off by being gentle). Given the airflow does reverse, it is more effective if the air doesn’t flow back up the tube, and as such there is a manually operated valve that can be attached to the front of the vac, so at the end of a dusty session, you can close the valve then activate the cleaning cycle to leave the vac ready to go the next time.

The first time I saw it activate, the vac had the new super-flexible hose that Festool have also just released, and seeing it jump significantly when the cleaning cycle hit is probably what added to the surprise just how violent the cycle is!  I am very curious just how much wear and tear it places on the machine and the components.  The filter is unique to the Autoclean as well – very flexible to get the maximum benefit from the heavy thump the Autoclean cycle imparts.

Flexible Filter

I did come away with two thoughts: first, the autoclean is impressive for those that need it – especially those doing sanding of plaster for example, and second, when I heard there was an Autoclean version (and not that long after I got the CT36), I thought it was a shame to miss out on that. Not any more – I don’t need that sort of self-cleaning vac for the work that happens in my workshop.  The CT36, which is still one of the very latest models, is still my ideal solution.  If I was doing concrete grinding or cutting, plaster work etc, then sure – the Autoclean would be invaluable.

Stusshed-Episode79WagonWheelManufacture

Episode 79 Wagon Wheel Manufacture

Hmm – perhaps I should put one in my backyard and really demonstrate what it can do!  All it needs is a slabbing capability, and we would be rockin’!

Depth-of-Cut

Stusshed-Episode78UsingTheCopyAttachment

Episode 78 Using the Copy Attachment

Stusshed-Episode76ResawingForHiddenTreasures

Episode 76 Resawing for Hidden Treasures

Stusshed-Episode75WoodRiverSpokeshave

Episode 75 Wood River Spokeshave

Stusshed-Episode74FlaiUBlade

Episode 74 Flai U Blade

Stusshed-Episode73CrosscuttingOnTheTWC

Episode 73 Crosscutting on the TWC

Stusshed-Episode72FeelTheBurn

Episode 72 Feel the Burn

Stusshed-Episode71ROSOnTWC

Episode 71 ROS on TWC

Stusshed-Episode66TormekDBS22

Episode 66 Tormek DBS22

Stusshed-Episode65TAG

Tormeks are GO!

Stusshed-Episode64HallTableFinishing

Episode 64 Hall Table Finishing

Stusshed-Episode63HallTable

Episode 63 Hall Table

Stusshed-Episode62TalkingPatternCopying

Episode 62 Talking Pattern Copying

Stusshed-Episode61TalkingSignWriting

Episode 61 Talking Sign Writing

Stusshed-Episode60FestoolBS105EBeltSander

Episode 60 Festool BS105E Belt Sander

One of the really impressive features of the TWC, and one of the easiest operations – surfacing.  My TWC can handle a slab up to 2000 x 1300mm (78″ x 51″), and any size down to around 1″ x 1″ (or in other words, no limit on minimum size, unlike a thicknesser, planer (jointer) or drum sander).  Future views will cover a whole range of techniques – keep tuned!

Stusshed-SSYTCSmallTorqueSurfacingWVacClamp

Bringing it all together – the Torque Workcentre, Triton Router, Whiteside Surfacing Bit, Vac Clamp

Stusshed-SSYTCVacClamp

Vacuum Clamps from vac-clamp.com

Talking about protecting yourself from dust. The cloud gets generated by taking the Festool Termite to a piece of MDF.

Sorry about the pelting rain in the background – for a country in a 10 year drought, it seems to rain at very inopportune times!

This video features the Dust-Bee-Gone and Microclene MC1000 air filter.  The work is done on top of the Walko Workbench.

Stusshed-SSYTCWalkoWorkbench

As initially discussed here, the Walko Workbench from Ideal Tools can be set up in a number of different orientations, depending on your requirements.  In my case, and as seen here, it provides a narrow workbench that I can easily break down and remove to free up space, or repurpose easily to a different role (assembly table, panel saw etc)  It is covered in dogholes which is excellent when working with the low profile Walko surface clamps.

The bench used in the video (and as seen pictured here as well) is the WALKO Contractors Workbench, soon to be imported and sold by Ideal Tools

I grabbed the little digi-camera and shot a quick look at the Rockler Bench Cookies in action. They can be seen securing a board while edge routing with a hand-held router, while sanding with a ROS (random orbital sander), and while using the Blowfly Sander and Spider Sander, both from T&T Design.  There will be more on these 2 sanders shortly.

During the video, you’ll see the blowfly looking like it is catching my shirt- it isn’t, it is just generating quite a breeze, but it will be something I am more aware of in future.  Also, you’ll see me generating a ton of dust without breathing protection. I have a high volume air cleaner (Microclene MC1000) directly overhead, and during the dust production, I wasn’t breathing, so hopefully that puts anyone’s safety concerns at ease!

One of the site’s readers (I’ve been combing my emails to find out who!) pointed out that there was a better way for attaching the Mitre Gauge, that I hadn’t picked up on, so this YTC episode is an addendum to the Shed.TV video, and quickly shows a technique that I’m bit embarrassed that I didn’t know!

Stusshed-SSYTCTerrysFestoolDominoShelfJig

Terry Fogarty runs the Domino and Furniture courses for Ideal Tools, and having owned and used the Domino in a production setting since they first went on sale just over 3 years ago, he is particularly experienced in their use, and has developed a number of jigs to extend its capabilities.

This is his latest jig, and is a clever, and simple way of using the domino to create adjustable shelves (similar to the old dowel hole method typical in many commercial furniture carcasses), but it produces very consistent shelf holes very easily and accurately. He finishes it off with home-made shelf supports that look so much better than the commercial plastic or metal ones.

I really enjoy this approach.  There is no sales pitch here – the tools either sell themselves, or they don’t.  You get to see the tools in a real work environment, get to use the tools in the same, and get professional training in their application.  I’m not even getting the point across well – it sounds like there is an undercurrent here of sales and marketing, and that is far from reality.

It came across as a training facility, running really interesting courses that happen to make available the whole Festool range of tools, and it just happens that you have an opportunity to buy any Festool you need.  It isn’t even a shop – the physical aspect of Ideal Tools is a training facility, and getting in is through the courses, or by appointment.  Ideal Tools has a strong web presence, and purchasing can be done primarily through their website.  They also have a bonus scheme, where you earn points from purchases that can be used to purchase other items from their store.

This is the workshop/training facility that will be used for the Hall Table course I am attending from 2nd August for 6 weeks (of Sundays).  There are still some places available, so get in quick if you want to be a part of it.  What I am looking forward to on this course is that it is not formulaic, and it doesn’t produce a bunch of tables that all look the same.  You are encouraged, and supported to try different modifications to the base design, different materials (or at least different timbers), and to produce a table that will suit your needs, and an opportunity to express yourself in a fine furniture form.

Stusshed-SSYTCWelding

Very bad example of MMAW

Stusshed-SSYTCIntroduction

An introduction to a bit of an experiment called “The Stu’s Shed YouTube Chronicles”

Raw, unedited, short clips, the video equivalent to the micro-blogs of Twitter and how they are supplementing the main content of this website/blog. Like Twitter, this is an experiment to see if it is a worthy supplement to Stu’s Shed.

I attended this fire after the actual incident (we were on the ship next door) to document the situation. Note the result from the heat that quickly resulted – especially my favourite – the speaker that got so hot that the bungee cord holding it down has actually pulled its way through the speaker itself.

The sort of heat, and damage documented here is by no means uncommon in a typical fire.

The Drill Press Laser is available from Professional Woodworkers Supplies

The Pro Table is available from Professional Woodworkers Supplies

Part b will include finishing with a CA finish (Superglue), and assembly.

Kreg Jig from Carbatec, Pro Drill Press Table from Professional Woodworkers Supplies.

Using TopSaver and SilverGlide to remove rust, lubricate and protect the top of a major shop machine.

Stusshed-SSYTCWixeyDigitalCalipersPresentation

SSYTC003 Wixey Digital Calipers

Short promo developed for the Wixey Digital Calipers

A quick demonstration of two technologies – one useful for quick visualisations of ideas in 3D, the other with the ability to transfer handwriting and drawing into a realtime digital form.

Contact page for drawing boards http://www.3dboards.com.au/
Contact page for SmartPen http://www.smartpen.com.au/
Original Stu’s Shed review article 3D Drawing Boards

MagSwitch technology is a revelation in my workshop – changing how I work, the jigs I make, even influencing the decisions on major item acquisition.

Making Zero Clearance Inserts isn’t a particularly difficult task, but it is always good seeing someone else do it first! I have come up with a bit of a novel approach to how to safely do the cut.  The traditional method is to use the fence to help hold down the new table insert as it is being cut, but I’ve never been really happy with that solution.  With the use of my recent MagJig enabled jig, I have a much more secure and safe way to conduct the evolution.

Although not currently available in Oz, these are still (afaik) available in the US etc, and they are still out there if you come across a used model.  In any respect, for the project I was working on (a noticeboard) this was the right tool for the job.  The Steel Cutter came out while Triton was still owned by Hills, and seemed a very strange direction for Triton to be going at the time.

Australian designed clamps, with 100+kg pre-settable clamping pressure and one-handed operation. Made from either glass impregnated resin, or aluminium.

The wetstone sharpeners are just one part of the system – the jigs that are available make it a very versatile machine.  This video covers both some of the jigs that are available, as well as dressing the stone, so it is flat and parallel to the jig support arm.

Some very impressive technology for the woodworking workshop. As seen demonstrated at the Melbourne Timber and Working with Wood Show, October 08.

The buggers also give me a bit of stick while filming   Thanks Brendan!

I had an operator problem (forgot to turn on the vac), and had to reshoot some of the video.  I don’t get paid enough to worry about perfect continuity….

Bloody good tool though!  For $199 it’d make a great Father’s Day present.

Stusshed-Episode33Triton2300WCircularSaw

Episode 33 Review of Triton 2300W Circular Saw

Stusshed-Episode28TourOfTheShedDuringUpgrade

Tour of the Shed during the recent upgrades, so this is a look at Stu’s Shed 1.7

When we finally get to 2.0 (in another 5 years or so), I might do another one then!

Also includes a look back at a very short video tour I did a few years ago, well before Stu’s Shed became….

Stusshed-Episode26SafetyWeek2008Introduction

Introduction to Safety Week on the Wood Whisperer Network 2008

A quick introduction and discussion about personal safety equipment, not only using it, but ensuring that the solution actually works for you so that you actually use the equipment when needed, rather than leaving it sitting on the shelf as being too cumbersome or uncomfortable to bother using.

Also too – the first (brief) look inside Stu’s Shed 1.7 as it continues to undergo its physical transformation.

Stusshed-Episode25WatercooledGrindingStone

This episode looks at watercooled grinding stones, such as the Triton, Scheppach and Tormek. In this instance, a $A199 Triton Wetstone Sharpener is used to produce an edge on a plane blade of HSS.

It also happens to be the last video shot in the old shed, so a bit of nostalgia there!

Stusshed-Episode24ToolMaintenanceCastIron

Episode 24 Tool Maintenance Cast Iron and Sanders
For anyone not living in absolute ideal conditions, cast iron is not only magnetic, but “magnetically” attracts rust to it, and so it is important to both protect against rust, and be able to remove any ‘infection’ as soon as it starts.

Stusshed-SSYTCNostalgiaAnEarlyWoodworkingVideo

SSYTC002 Nostalgia

Going though some old files, and came across this 7 second clip of a modification I made to the GMC thicknesser. Guess this actually qualifies as my first woodworking video (despite its short length).I’d forgotten the clip even existed!

Not sure of its vintage – probably 2004 – 2005. Not that long ago, and look how online video quality has improved

Stusshed-Episode23WixeyDigitalPlanerHeightGauge

Episode 23 Wixey Digital Planer Height Gauge.
Turning the planer/thicknesser into a precision tool.Available from Professional Woodworker Supplies.More detail in this blog entry Wixey Digital Planer Height Gauge.

Update: Since making this video, Wixey have updated their Height Guide, and it now presents the LCD panel at a better viewing angle.

Stusshed-Episode22Triton15inThicknesserMoulding

Episode 22 Triton 15in Thicknesser – Moulding

This is the third of three videos looking at the new Triton 15in Thicknesser. This installment shows in detail using the unit to make a moulding. A fourth video looking at fitting an aftermarket digital height gauge will be available in the near future.

Stusshed-Episode21TritonThicknesserMouldingBlades

Episode 21 Triton 15in Thicknesser – Fitting Moulding Blades

This is the second of three videos looking at the new Triton 15in Thicknesser. This installment shows in detail the fitting of the moulding blades.

Stusshed-Episode20Triton15inThicknesserPlaning

Triton 15in Planer Thicknesser Moulder. This is the first of three videos looking at the new Triton 15in Thicknesser. This installment gives an overview of the unit, and looks at its planing/thicknessing function.

Stusshed-Episode19RaisedPanelBit

Raised Panel Bit. To complement the rail and stile bit featured last month, the raised panel bit is used to produce the panel that fits into the frame created by the rail and stile. The result is a very traditionally styled raised panel, used for cupboard doors, drawer fronts, and even the sides of some types of furniture.

One thing that I did notice, which is pretty cool, is Stu’s Shed is the 3rd most popular woodworking podcast (worldwide!), led only by the Wood Whisperer (who is now podcasting and blogging professionally), and Woodworking Online (a podcast by Woodsmith Magazine).

So thanks for watching everyone!

Stusshed-Episode18RailAndStileStackedBit

Stacked Rail and Stile Router Bit. As discussed very recently on Stu’s Shed, this is a very impressive router bit, and has sold me on the concept of stacked rail and stile bits, rather than having two separate matched bits to perform the same job.

Stusshed-Episode17DressingTimber

Episode 17 Dressing Timber.

In this episode, we are having a look at dressing timber so that it is flat/straight and square, ready for a project. In this case, we are using some reclaimed Jarrah from an old deck, but the principle is the same if you are preparing timber that is DAR (dressed all round) from a timber yard, or hardware supply shop, or even if you have prepared your own board from raw timber.

DAR stock can still have warps, cupping and twists, so it is definitely beneficial to go through the motions of actually dressing the timber yourself to ensure it really is straight and true (and square!).

The two units used here are the Jet 6″ deluxe longbed planer (jointer in the US), and then the Triton 15″ Thicknesser (planer in the US).

Stusshed-Episode16TheRouterTable

Episode 16 The Router Table.

The router is an incredibly versatile tool, capable of many, many tasks. One method of using the router is to mount it underneath a table, so the router bit is exposed, and bringing the workpiece to the router, rather than the other way around.

This video looks at using the router table, using the router table fence as well as bearinged versus unbearinged router bits. It is a followup to the blog post on Stu’s Shed “So just what is a Router Table?” on the 25th November 07

Stusshed-Episode15MetalDetection

Episode 15 Metal Detection in Reclaimed Timber

I came across this security device recently and to all intents and purposes, it is exactly the same as the metal detectors sold in woodworking shops (for 2 – 3 times as much). This video is a brief look at the detector in action (plus some traps for young players (myself included)).

For more info, see the post on http://www.stusshed.com “A Win for the Good Guys”

Stusshed-Episode14EEqualsMCSquare

Episode 14 E=mc Square.

Squares (or tri-squares) are an essential part of every toolbox. In this episode, we have a brief look at various types of squares, from the cheapest through to some superb versions that are available. We also look at how to test a square for accuracy before buying it.

Particularly featured is Incra’s Guaranteed Square, available from Professional Woodworker Supplies. Their guarantee is that the angular accuracy, from heel to toe of this square is accurate to within 1/1000th of a inch, making for a square with incredible accuracy. Cost is $A112.50. It is made from a hardened material (not sure what the base material is), which has been anodised for durability and finish. Also from Professional Woodwork Supplies is a Wixey Digital Angle Gauge. Not strictly a square, but it is easy to use it as such, and accurate to within 0.1 degrees. This one will set you back $77.50. Since getting to use both these around the workshop, I have found them essential tools, and both can now be found in my shop apron, as they get used constantly.

From Australian Wood Review magazine is their multi-square. This is an accurately machined 45-45-90 set square, and is excellent for both measuring and checking angles. It is excellent for setting blade and bit heights, as well as checking for square (and checking other squares). Cost is $35 for the imperial version (currently on special), and $45 for the metric version. Drop this one on the floor, and you don’t have to think about buying a new one!

Finally, for those who love quality hand-made hand tools there is a Colen Clenton square, with an ebony stock, and a recalibratable blade. This is a fine tool, beautiful to look at and use. They are available through the HNT Gordon website.

BTW, sorry about the quality at the start of the video – think a camera is definitely needing a service. Hope the other videos shot around the same time are not too badly affected

Update: Having a look at some of the feedback, and yes, there are a whole heap of other squares on the market, including some combination squares that are apparently very accurate. Unfortunately, I can only review what I have, or have come across (or in a couple of instances were generously supplied), which is pretty much the same situation for many woodworkers. If other suppliers/manufacturers would like to have their items included in a side-by-side review, please drop me an email.

Episode 13 Footy Trophy

Episode 13 A Footy Trophy.

In this episode, I needed to extend the life of a Footy Tipping Trophy by adding some room for more winner plaques.

We go from sketching the initial shape, to roughing it out on the bandsaw, sanding to final dimensions on the disk sander and spindle sander, and finally round over the edges on the router table.

Stusshed-Episode12RouterSignWriting

Episode 12 Sign Writing with the Router.

It is one of those things that many people want to do when they first buy a set of template guides for their router, and see the picture of router-carved words on the box. Or when you come across a well-made wooden sign, and you look at it wondering – How did they do that?

You don’t have to be an expert with carving chisels, and have the patience of a saint, so long as you have a reasonable kit of sign writing templates, a guide, and a router with a low centre-of-gravity (the small, cheap ones work really well)!

This video covers a few related topics, including templates and template guides, a sign-writing (commercial) jig, modifying a router (ok, I cut the plunge springs down), and of course, demonstrating using the jig.

Stusshed-Episode11CarbitoolWheelCutter

Episode 11 Carbitool Wheel Cutter

Carb-i-tool is a Melbourne manufacturing company, producing very high quality router bits in a myriad of styles and designs. One of their rather unique designs is the Wheel Cutter. It comes in 3 sizes – 40mm, 50mm and 60mm. It is not strictly a router bit, as it is designed to be used in the drill press, and quickly and easily turns offcuts into toy wheels!

The wheels have a nice profile, with a rounded rim, and indented hub. The bits have a large chunk of tungsten carbide, and will produce 1000s of wheels!

Carb-i-tool router bits can be found at a number of outlets, including The Tool Centre, Mitre 10, and their stand can also be seen (with a large range of bits) at many of the Working with Wood Shows. If you wat to find a supplier near you, contact Carb-i-tool by email at sales@carbitool.com.au, or through their website www.carbitool.com.au. You will find their current catalogue online there as well. One of the things I find very impressive is the fact that if there isn’t a bit there that you specifically need, they can make any other profile to order. They also offer a sharpening service for you router bits and saw blades, which from memory is in the vicinity of $5 for a router bit.

This is a new segment for Stu’s Shed – Router Bit of-the-month. Credit for the concept actually goes to Matt’s Basement Workshop, an American Podcast you can also find on iTunes.

Carb-i-tool have very generously supported Stu’s Shed with this segment, and have provided a number of bits that we will review over the coming months.

The background noise in the video is rain – can’t seem to do much about it – the only times I get a chance to shoot some footage recently seems to be the only time it rains around here! Seeing as we are in the middle of a very bad drought, I guess we can’t complain, but the timing is…..unfortunate! Been chatting with one of my colleagues, and I’m going to play more with how I record audio in the future. I guess while we are learning more about woodworking, I’m on quite an interesting learning curve about video production!

When all’s said and done, hope you are enjoying the results, and the authenticness of this being a real video, shot in a real shed….our own little reality show….I should have called it “Little Brother”.

Stusshed-Episode10TritonSpindleSander

Episode 10 Triton Spindle Sander

Another horse out of the Triton Stables, the Spindle Sander is an excellent addition for the workshop. Taking spindle sizes from 13mm (1/2 inch) to 76mm (3 inch) all those difficult sanding projects can now be easily performed and is an excellent complement to the belt and disk sander.

The sander has a cast iron top, dust port for the all-important dust collection, and onboard storage for all the different sized spindles, and associated surrounds.

Apologies for some sound and lighting issues with this episode – the technical issues have since been resolved (one shorting/dying new battery caused a lot of grief until it was discovered and replaced).