Style by Shah - The Asian Fashion Journal

IQ 101: The Hair Makeover at Salon B Singapore

2013-04-02T23:50:00.000+08:00

I am a fussy person when it comes to hair.

I have spent years trying to find the perfect, and I mean perfect, hair designer. No, not stylist. Designer. Someone with a point of view, and the technical know how to back it up.

I have been to expensive salons, celebrity cutters, and even hair academies in the search of that one person that would treat my tresses as importantly as I did.

And a few years ago I found her.

Creative Hair Designer with G-Dragon from the Kpop mega-group Big Bang

Way before everything Korean was cool, there was a humble hair professional who was working as a director at a Japanese salon in Singapore.

Badabing Badaboom, one thing led to another, she left the salon and opened her own, and I followed suit.

It has been a long relationship. And it has never gotten boring.

With legend Vidal Sassoon

She received her training from the legendary Vidal Sassoon, so that should give you an idea about her pedigree. She constantly upgrades her skills and industry knowledge annually with trips to London for related events and developmental courses. So long time clients, and she has many, never gets stuck in a rut.

She gets excited when she gets to show clients future trends. She balances real life needs and creative expression. She is a perfectionist.

Clients have known her to not let them leave the salon until the cut is perfect. And I mean perfect. That does not mean you are stuck in the chair forever, although her client base has been expanding at such a rate that I do wonder how she manages.

What is even more crucial to me is the technicality of the cuts. She understands individual head shapes which is crucial to making sure you don't have a dent in your hair style. Those of you who are salon whores will appreciate it when I say your investment grows out beautifully.

You can only get that from a great, technically sound cut.

She doesn't see herself as a Cutter but a Creative Designer. And that is what she is.

If I am gushing it is for good reason. I have been to really famous salons around the world. I learned the hard way that you NEVER cheat on the person that cuts your hair. When I know I have to be out of the country for an extended period, I time my hair appointments so that I am with her before I leave and after I come back. I am so confident of her talents that I have sent friends and family to her. Like anyone who has moved from a PC to a Mac, they have never looked back.

Her name is Sunny. From Salon B in Singapore.

Let me share a recent transformation that involved a very good friend, Ms Ho Shee Mun. She decided she wanted a real change, something that was not available or doable anywhere else. Brave. But we all know that a great hair transformation changes not just the look but the spirit too. This is her story, guided by Sunny.

Let the pictures tell the story.

The Process

Shee Mun Before

Preparing for the makeover!

Sunny working on Shee Mun

Finessing

The Results

Happy Client!

Sunny with a very happy Shee Mun

Shee Mun After

What Sunny did for Shee Mun

Spring Summer 2013 Trend
Disconnection Hair Cut
Round Graduation Under Cut
Triangle Layer on Top
Side length kept for feminine appeal

What this means to us non professionals?

Bangs that meet up with the sides in a gradual fashion
Volume at the back, balancing the shape of the head
Layered to create separation for the Indigo Purple highlights
Combination and Balance between short and long lengths, best of both worlds
Easy for growing out hair without much maintenance

The outcome speaks for itself.

She is gorgeous, she walked out of the salon looking and feeling like a renewed person. She had never attempted anything this different. But even though Singapore is so change adverse, change is a good thing. And Shee Mun has gone from having acceptable hair to WOWZAI!

Good for her! If only more women would take the plunge and do something radical to shake up their lives!

Some of you may go gaga when I say Sunny has close ties with the Kpop world, which explains her many pictures with the biggest names in the industry. Other so called Korean salons cannot claim this. But I will be writing a lot more about Salon B and especially Sunny's creative work in future for a different reason.

I believe it is important to encourage Asian design talents and we really have to recognize true creativity when they appear. Let's face it, visionaries are rare.

And Sunny is a visionary.

For more information about Salon B, you can visit these sites.

www.salonb.com.sg
Salon B Facebook

Event: (Update) Canada Philippine Fashion Week

2013-04-02T19:22:00.001+08:00

The Canada Philippine Fashion Week, helmed by Uber Creative Genius Jeff Rustia is in full swing. Mr Rustia is currently in Manila working tirelessly on the details of the event, and from the way it has been progressing, Canadians can expect a whole lotta glamor very soon!

They secured Philippines Supermodel and Award Winning Actress Angel Aquino to become the face of the event.

What I love love love about it is that the organizers put her in a Filipino designer John Ablaza original. It is lush, it is grand, it is romantic.

The most admirable thing is that the celebrity power is being used for greater good. Ms Aquino signed posters to be auctioned off for the Kol Hope Foundation for Children, a charity that helps disabled children in both the Philippines and Canada, and a beneficiary of the event.

Supporting fashion = supporting a great cause. Nothing better than that!

The Star meter is rising people!

You can't expect anything less from a Jeff Rustia event!

Event: Fide - A Fashion Hang Out

2013-04-01T19:25:00.001+08:00

What: A Fashion Hangout
When: April 12 1800-2300
Where: The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Singapore
Why: Hosted by 'How Do I Look' TV Presenter Jeannie Mai
Chance to win trips to Paris Couture Week or Fide Fashion Weeks in Singapore

Just Bloody Fun

Commentary: Diana Vreeland on Fashion, Life and the Eye that Travels

2013-04-01T19:11:00.000+08:00

...the words did not flow.

It has been a while since I have written anything for both my blogs. Preparing for my OZNZ 2013 adventure was one reason. The trip itself was another. Right after, the pages remained blank because I was just not inspired.

I have always maintained that one should not say or write anything if one has nothing significant to offer.

And so while the fashion world kept on turning, I just found myself in an unusual spot: voxless by choice.

They say that what you need the most will come when the time is right for you to receive it.

And today, it did.

I chanced upon a new DVD release of a fashion themed movie. It was a documentary of sorts of the late and great Diana Vreeland, the uber editor in chief of Vogue. The unique aspect of this movie was that it was largely narrated by Mrs Vreeland herself, recorded by her biographer before her death.

It was like oral fashion history at its best.

As I watched the stories unfold, about her life in the roaring 20's, her passion for the 60's, and her Hollywood connection of the 70's, I realized that she lived.

She LIVED.

It was clear that she was not one to dwell on disasters, and by her own admission, she never really saw much in her life.

But that is a matter of perspective.

She had a mother that made it clear she was the ugly duckling of the family, one who flirted with her boyfriends.

She earned a paltry $14,000 a year as editor of Harpers Bazaar only to be given a $1,000 raise after years of service.

She lost the love of her life, her husband of 46 years to cancer.

She was fired from Vogue.

And yet this woman had a fullness of life that not many would choose to pursue.

She was once in the same building as Hitler. She had her night gowns fitted by Coco Chanel. She claimed that Charles Lindberg flew over her estate. She identified and celebrated the cultural significance of the morally shocking bikini.

Certainly her accomplishments are many. She was the precursor of Anna Wintour and unlike popular belief, she was the first fashion editor in chief to recognize the importance of celebrity.

And so, in spite of the challenges in her life, her roll call of achievements seem to overwhelm.

We must have all shared on some level the experiences she went through. And yet, her attitude towards those life events didn't make her falter. Instead of bending to negativity, she used it to her advantage. She was resilient and a survivor, and yet she never credited herself as those things. She was always about what was ahead, never about the rocks and barbs in the path behind her.

When one truly lives, definitions and descriptions have no meaning.

Mrs Vreeland's stand was also 'never be boring'.

And that alone seems to capture the essence of her spirit. It is the joie de vivre that is palpable that even after her death, and through the screen, it just resonates.

And inspires.

It takes a certain nerve, and courage, and yes, balls to be clear about who you are in life, and what you want to do and be. To stand in the face of external perception and the status quo and defy all conventions. To make the world around you work with the vision you have for yourself and for others.

It is more often than not that the world forces its own perceptions and definitions upon you, claiming that the opposite would mean you were worth less.

Not worthless. Just less.

People can't handle originals as well as they can the status quo. They find it hard to embrace change and differences. Individuality, especially in a highly evolving society where one's identity is marked by a bar code, is a commodity used for the masses.

Yet, it is the originals and the individuals that push for change and the acceptance of differences. They force the world to be better, to dream bigger, to learn newness that have never been imagined before.

You see these qualities in people like Steve Jobs, Gandhi, and yes Diana Vreeland.

These people lived their lives with passion. They marched to the beat of their own drum. They had their own style.

And commonly, they were also much maligned.

Being an original isn't something you just write about. It is something you live. Something you are, without apologies. And when it is time for you to depart, you do so with no regrets.

And so the epiphany learned from a fashion icon is this.

I realized that I have apologized for who I am, how I thought, what I chose to be for too long, to appease too many people who, in the final analysis, would have very few lines (if any) in my autobiography if it ever gets written. It then becomes a slow climb upwards. It is unlearning what I have learned, and regaining what I have always known. But most of all, it is living the life that has been destined to be mine from the time of birth.

As Mrs Vreeland says: "There's only one very good life and that's the life you know you want and you make it yourself".

So years after Mrs Vreeland's passing, she is still the lady who challenges people with the simple question "Why Don't You...".

My simple answer is: I shall.

www.dianevreeland.com

Quotations from Diana Vreeland

“There’s nothing more boring than narcissism - the tragedy of being totally… me. We’re all capable of it. And we all know examples of it - these beautiful tragedies…. I loathe narcissism, but I approve of vanity.”

"You know the greatest thing is passion, without it what have you got? I mean if you love someone you can love them as much as you can love them but if it isn't a passion, it isn't burning, it isn't on fire, you haven't lived."
"Style-- all who have it share one thing: originality."

“Style was a standard. Didn’t hurt anyone… But you gotta have style. It helps you get down the stairs. It helps you get up in the morning. It’s a way of life. Without it, you’re nobody. I’m not talking about lots of clothes.”

"I believe you see, in the dream. I think we only live through our dreams and our imagination. That's the only reality we really ever know.”

all pictures are properties of their respective owners

Event: Canada Philippine Fashion Week

2013-02-18T14:23:00.001+08:00

It's going to be a first.

Come June 10 right through to June 15, Canada will experience a blast of Filipino fashion. The world's first Canada Philippine Fashion Week will showcase the best in haute couture, fashion, culture and creativity of Filipinos in Canada and the Philippines.

High profile shows of conceptual fashion to haute couture will be in the offing. And they have already roped in some of the best design talents from the Philippines.

It is an East Meets West of a different kind.

Watch this space.

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Finale (OBOY)

2013-02-18T02:30:00.000+08:00

I didn't have much to say.

What needed to be said about NTM (Asia) had been said. And last week's episode didn't rustle up anything surprising to warrant a post.

The finale of the series, just shown tonight, was also unsurprising. The results were expected, and even hinted by Nadya last week when she warned Kate that her chances of winning would be abysmal if she did not buck up. So really, it was a battle between Stephanie and Jessica.

I predicted Jessica winning the competition weeks ago. But I did not expect her age to be an issue that needed to be raised, especially since the producers obviously set the age criteria of the competition. Bringing it up at the end, especially in front of Tyra Banks, only showed that the production may not have thought things through. It was almost like, OOPS you are good but you may be too old. But hang on, YOU put me here. If you get my drift.

Allowing Jessica a chance to explain her 'late start' in the business, was an obvious attempt at tugging at the viewers' heartstrings, and a soft landing for the producers' seeming oversight. The clear winner was Jessica but pushing her through 'in spite' of her age had to have some cushioning.

Truth is, age for an Asian model may not be such a big factor. I remember walking around Ground Zero in New York and screeching in delight when I spotted an ad featuring a model from Singapore's local fashion hey days in the 80's, Nora Ariffin. I could not have been more proud, especially when I learned she was featured in a Bobbi Brown book. The concept of being past one's prime does not seem to have the same meaning for Asian models.

Nora Ariffin

And so if Tyra Banks really wants to know what makes our girls special, she just needs to see how our girls can remain gorgeous for a very long time. Call it Asian genetics.

The finale was unexpected in other ways.

For one thing, it would have been more interesting I suppose to have it all done in Hong Kong, where the girls traveled to in the previous week. I suspect though their deal with Resorts World Sentosa included a finale at their newest attraction. Did no one think it was odd to stage a fashion show where Frederick Lee's divine collection had no connection to the fish in the backdrop? Or that the judges were standing next to a fence that served as a division between the girls and them?

I did enjoy seeing the 'loved ones' appear in the episode. Strategically, their appearance would have made a stronger story arc and impact if they had turned up either in the last episode or a couple earlier. Traditionally in reality TV programming, the appearance of the relatives are meant to give the contestants a second wind in the race to the finish line. Having them right at the end, AFTER the challenge, just seemed like a waste.

Still it was nice to know that Kate's brother was super gorg that spoke no English. Nothing like a hunk from Brazil that looks semi Asian that can't speak English. With those looks, you don't need words. The boyfriends of the the other two contestants give hope to lesser mortals that they should not give up hope as they too can have gorg model gfs.

Looking at the finale episode, with Tyra sitting next to Nadya. I could not help but feel a sense of vicarious pride. Nadya was beaming. Flawless skin. Perfect diction. Confident. Poised. Immaculate.

Tyra is of course, Tyra. And she is great. And maybe she didn't travel with her hair people, and her weave was showing her roots, but there was a marked difference between this gorgeous supermodel and Nadya. The latter held her own. And it showed.

Gorgeous Nadya in a Kebaya

Nadya also made a huge cultural and fashion statement by wearing a beautiful lace Kebaya for the finale. I was unprepared for this, and my jaw dropped to the ground. Whether it is the stylist's or Nadya's choice, the outfit was sublime. It didn't need to be loud, it didn't need to have a plunging front and back, it just needed Nadya wearing it.

One thing I did think was a misstep during judging was the absence of Daniel Boey in the panel. Now, I am not someone who cuddles up next to him for a job. And those who have been following my writings will remember that I do have issues with favoritism by some of the judges. But I do believe that casting Daniel was a smart move. But in the end, reducing him to a Jay Manuel sort of position was not.

It just seemed like there was no more space for Daniel after the sponsors and special guest took up 3 chairs. Was the panel crowded? Yes. Was a representative from Storm and Harper's Bazaar necessary? No.

The series was inconsistent from the start about who was supposed to be on the panel. One would think that the people who had been there throughout the journey of the contestants would have been best suited to judge them in their final hour. Tyra was just icing on the cake.

I started out the post saying that the finale was unsurprising. Well I guess that is not entirely accurate. What was expected, the winner, should be still hailed as appropriate, considering Jessica never played house politics, was consistent, hardworking, helpful and a great representative of an Asian model when she gets to London. And who can deny her after she dropped the coat to reveal the back of the dress during the catwalk. I mean, seriously? She did what a model should be doing. SELL THE FRACKING DRESS!

As expected as her win was, her closing statement was, well a pleasant surprise.

"If you love it, you can do it."

Now isn't that a pearl of wisdom you can keep in your pocket.

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Kicks Out Another Ethnic Asian

2013-01-31T00:18:00.003+08:00

One would think when a reality competition gets closer to the finale, the blood starts to boil, the heart pumps faster and the sweat goes from beads to oil slicks.

Goodbye Gorgeous

Sadly, from 5 to 4 girls, the last episode was not so. Which is why it has taken this long for me to even say anything.

On one hand, one could say that the show is a pleasant watch. After all, what else is on TV that is in the same category that, in the very least, is competent in production standards?

On the other hand, the show is also so 'sweet' that it does not really motivate appointment viewing.

And yet, then again, the 'sweetness' is an unintended by-product that may become the calling card of the program.

From the car / moving visual challenge (just call it for what it is, a TVC / Promo paid for by the car company), to the jump around like a loon challenge, the tension in the episode was predictably absent.

The odd thing was Star World showed a repeat of a past season's America's Next Top Model right after tonight's telecast of the Asian version. And in that show, while the contestants were trying to be nice, you knew they just wanted the other to jump into a lake. Good TV right?

So So Beautiful

So just a few thoughts:

Whoever is styling the show deserves an award. Visual, textured, themed. All winners for TV.
Loved it when Daniel Boey said: "She looks like a harassed housewife." Hilarious.
Todd gave directions like a 'Director'. That is confusing. Isn't the challenge supposed to show what the girls can bring to the table with minimal guidance?
Todd's comment during judging, how one girl was boring. Hallo. I think you are talented but don't you think on TV you are just the same. The monotonous James Earl Jones wannabe voice is not as richly toned as you think.
Nadya is as usual, beautiful from any angle, especially the hair style in the latest episode.
Nadya really has come into her own. I am so happy for her. And this episode, when she announced the saved contestant, she didn't say anything. Maybe she did, and it was edited out. But not saying anything spoke volumes. That was priceless.

Really not her best.

I love Miss Nepal. And I didn't think her last shoot was as bad as all that. When you look at best photo winner Jessica's picture (above), is it really that strong? Does it not remind you of a Panadol ad? AIYOH MAAA, I GOTS HEADACHES! TAKE PANADOL.

Ms Nepal's departure...sweet and quiet, like the show.

But the fact that I can't remember Miss Nepal's name is an issue. She is beautiful but doesn't stick. Which is a shame. The show has been slammed for featuring too many Pan Asians. And with her departure, there is only one left.

No prizes for guessing that the last one will somehow be bye bye-ed soon too.

So here is my prediction. Premature as it may be.

The winner will be Jessica from Thailand.

Talking Labels: Zang Toi Fall 2013 Sneak Peek!

2013-01-30T21:06:00.000+08:00

Zang Toi's work lets us travel through fashion.

Last season, he gave us a glimpse into his holiday in the South of France. Since I am his eighth cousin twice removed, I am wondering where my invitation to the vacation went! Must have gotten lost in the mail...

I jest...

For Fall 2013, the buzz is that he is sticking to Europe, to the home of the Bolshoi Ballet, the Kremlin and Naomi Campbell's paramour (hmm are they still together??).

Yup.

Russia.

One guesses, and on February 13, all shall be revealed!

February 13 people. Expect GORG to the MAX!

Here is a sneak peek of what to expect....

Tasty Teaser! IMPERIAL.

Emerald Beauty

Fur Goodness Sake!

All pictures © Zang Toi

House Of Toi

News: Vogue Thailand is a Roaring Success

2013-01-30T20:51:00.000+08:00

Ya know, I could have sworn Singapore had its own Vogue edition.

Huffington Post now says that Vogue Thailand is the first Vogue for South East Asia, and I am not so sure that is true.

In any case, the consumers are lapping it up. Vogue Thailand is scoring all the way to the bank.

Is it because the launch issue features a Thai model in a traditional chada designed by Philip Treacy?
It is because 70% of the content is already promised to be done in Thailand?
Is it because this is the first Vogue to have a male Editor in Chief Kullawit Laosuksri?

Khun K

Whatever it is Khun Kullawit promises that the future issues will have even more customized content, something that will set it apart from its Western counterpart.

Now that is something to rejoice about!

IQ 101: The Stuff in Your Stuff | Formaldehyde

2013-01-30T19:52:00.002+08:00

This is part 3 in our little class about Chemicals of Interest.

You have probably heard about this one in TV shows and movies. It is a potent chemical that knocks you out. But did you know that you can also find formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasing preservatives in shampoos and liquid soaps?

The purpose of this chemical is to prevent bacteria growth in water based products but they have also been linked to skin sensitivity and cancer.

What it does to you:

Cancer

A known human carcinogen by many expert and government bodies, including the United States Department of Health and Human Services and the International Agency for Research on Cancer.

A recent review of the literature on occupational exposures and formaldehyde shows a link between formaldehyde and leukemia.

When formaldehyde is present in personal care products, people can be exposed by inhaling the formaldehyde that is off-gassed from the product, by ingesting it or by absorbing it through the skin.

Animal studies indicate that formaldehyde can be absorbed through the skin when formaldehyde-containing personal care products, including formaldehyde releasing preservatives, are applied.

Where it is found in your home:

Nail polishes
Nail glues
Eyelash glues
Hair gels
Hair Smoothing Products
Baby Shampoo
Baby Soap
Body Wash

The European Union restricts the use of formaldehyde in personal care products, and requires that products with formaldehyde or formaldehyde-release ingredients carry the label “contains formaldehyde.” Canada also restricts the concentration of formaldehyde, and it is banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in both Japan and Sweden.

Check the following names to see if they are in your stuff:

Quaternium-15
Dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin
Imidazolidinyl urea
Diazolidinyl urea
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol)
Formalin
Methylaldehyde
Oxymethyline
Methylene Oxude
Formic Aldehyde
Phenol Formaldehyde

Since low levels of formaldehyde can cause health concerns – at levels as low as 250 parts per million, and even lower levels in sensitized individuals – the slow release of small amounts of formaldehyde are cause for concern.

The concern is so real that Johnson and Johnson pledged to remove formaldehyde from all their products last year. While this is good news and a signal to others to move in the right direction, consumers must know that FMCG companies tend to play the name game when it comes to ingredients. While it may be true they have left out formaldehyde, formaldehyde releasing preservatives are a different story. The truth only comes out in lab tests.

Talking Labels: Louis Vuitton Fall WInter 2013-2014 Men's Ready to Wear

2013-01-25T03:25:00.002+08:00

Here are a few fashion facts.

Unless you are into a designer like Rick Owens or a label like Theater, chances are your fashion options are permutations of the pant, shirt, vest, blazer, suit, tux, t-shirt, jeans, belt and so on. Sure the cut may change a little, and the fabrics will change with the season, but overall menswear doesn't sell well when it gets too fashion forward.

Luxury brands don't necessarily mean better design or quality.

So here we are with LV, that appears to be trying to be different, while keeping to what the market will buy.

The recent showing of FW 2013/2014 Men's RTW had its followers flying to distant mountains in the Himalayas. LV's men's style director Kim Jones apparently went there to get some inspiration and came back with ponchos and parkas and mountain climbing accessories and details, all stamped with the LV logo for good measure (and price point).

Comparing the last collection from the same season, the pattern is similar. Muted tones. Oversized proportions. Jackets and coats belted at the waist.

Looking at the positives:

The collection has sharp contrasts between faux ruggedness and full on luxe. On one hand you get a sense of function in the clothes, and on the other hand, there are pieces which seem to belong in a gentleman's club.

Function

Gentleman's Club

This season has LV incorporating animal prints into its menswear, though not in a Cavalli sort of way. It is more subtle and subdued. (+) The collection also features an Asian-esque print, that either got its inspiration from a Buddhist temple, or some Chinese New Year greeting card. (-)

Meow.

Louis Vuitton really wants to remind everyone that the season of exchanging oranges is upon us. I suppose in the West, it is acceptable to wear something that borders on costume. Indeed, even customers of Hong Kong luxury brand Shanghai Tang tend to be foreigners. Asians would not dream of wearing something that screams old ethnic heritage.

Still, this may be LV's self-justified nod to Asian consumers. Or it may be a move to give Westerners this feeling of empowerment that they can pick up a piece of Asia in a bag or a housecoat. Or perhaps it is meant to strengthen the message that LV is all about voyage voyage.

Chinoiserie Chic in Small Doses

Whatever it may be, in small doses the look may still be somewhat acceptable. But even a non-fashion insider who watches Project Runway will know, 'matchy matchy' is just SO Cannot Cannot.

Too Much Lah.

And when 'matchy matchy' goes over the top...to toe, it becomes an eyesore than not even the LV logo can save. (Where is the logo anyway? Can you find it in the print?) Someone in the design room did not tell the powers that be that too much of a good thing is just Gong Xi Fa Cai on steroids.

Really?

Don't get me wrong. I respect Louis Vuitton's history and power position in the industry. I just think that if I wanted to rough it out in the mountains in the Himalayas, I would get a real poncho for a fraction of the cost and I wouldn't mind if it rips during the journey. And if I wanted a belt made of cord and a utility toggle, I would go get the latter from Japanese discount store Daiso for SG$2 and the former from an army supply store. Ta da! A belt like LV's. And if I really wanted to carry a bag that looks like it's made from a carpet with a Chinoi print (AND) wear a matching coat with that, well....mmmm I wouldn't really want to. Moot point.

Maybe LV's loyalists will see this collection as novel and rush out to buy the seriously expensive pieces. I will however venture to guess that once the season is over, they wouldn't be caught dead carrying these key looks. Then again, if they can afford to buy them to begin with, they wouldn't care!

Talking Labels: Zang Toi for Harper's Bazaar Malaysia

2013-01-21T12:33:00.000+08:00

I have great respect for this talent.

He is a kampung boy made good in the Big Apple. In a world where people become rich and famous because they are famous and/or rich, his success is well deserved for his gift for glamour and staying power. Over twenty years of hard work, the dream is still alive.

I believe in the Law of Attraction so I am putting it out there that it would be an honor to interview him, and perhaps on my return to New York, visit his atelier and who knows, his gorgeous Upper East Side home. I will bring Satay and my own Thai Green Curry!

In the meantime, he will be featured in Harper's Bazaar Malaysia's 10th Anniversary Edition. It is incredibly nice that he still supports home town media. And if the initial pictures popping up on twitter are anything to go by, that anniversary issue will be da bomb!

Look out for it!

For more on House of Toi, click here.

On a break from the shoot

All pictures © Zang Toi

Opinion: What Not To Wear If You Are An Anti-Gay Pastor

2013-01-21T01:41:00.002+08:00

OK.

I am not going to politicize my Style Journal.

I have always said: I want my blog to be a positive thing. Even if on the surface, it doesn't look like it. I believe you can always learn through every experience. You know, don't judge a coat by its lapels, look at the label and it could be Burberry.

So, Anti-Gay Pastor Lawrence Khong from Faith Community Baptist Church in Singapore is dressing up for his crusade. Anyone who has kept with the news knows that he raised a ruckus by involving a senior Singaporean politician in his tirades against gay people.

Basically, he wants the Government not to repeal an ancient law inherited from British colonial times that criminalizes sex between men. This law was raised during the Human Rights Commission inquiry into Singapore's human rights ranking. Singapore has denied enforcing it, but has also refused to repeal it.

Thanks to haters like the Pastor.

I do not want to publicize his words of hate, but it is important to place things in their proper context. You can read his statements here:
WTF

Well, he is of course entitled to his opinions. Even though, as a man of God, it is love he should be expressing, and not encourage his flock to hate. That is my opinion.

It is also my opinion that I think he is offensive on another level. His fashion sense totally hurts my eyes. He needs a makeover and I am sure I can help him out with that.

Tolong Lah Mister. Leather? Bondage? Really? You sure you are not 'family'?

What he looks like. But without the muscles and the good looks.

Seriously, Mr Khong. The Mad Max look is not only unbecoming for a pastor, it is also SOOOOOO 80's.

Why don't you learn from the ex-CEO of the SMRT who was carried into a party by a few hunks, dressed as Cleopatra? Aiyoh mister, pictures online live FOREVER laaaaaahhhhh. Roll eyeballs.

Stuff Envy: Prabal Gurung for Target!

2013-01-21T00:05:00.000+08:00

FEBRUARY 10 PEOPLE!

Mark that date down because fashion is about to get another dose of democracy. High fashion is reaching the masses once again with a collaboration so exciting it is making me salivate. The last time this sort of thing really got me going was Missoni's deal with Target, and Versace's collection for H&M.

Frankly, those collaborations seemed a tad mmmmm compromised. When you look at the products, you get a sense that they were licensed versions rather than conceptualized by the in house team. Of course this is probably furthest from the truth, and their respective design teams had to work on strict price points and budgets. Still, some of the products looked like they were Made In China bags with the brand just slapped on for good measure (think Givenchy for Singapore Airlines and you will get the drift).

Prabal Gurung's collection however, is divine. At least in pictures. It is not the first time he has worked with Target. This time though, he is headlining the marquee.

80+ pieces. The most expensive item is a very pocketbook friendly US$199. Most items are below US$50. I am already scheming to have the products shipped over. This is one of those many times fashion forward guys would look at their female friends and envy at how lucky they are to be able to buy treasures such as these.

Take a look!

I am a shoes and bags person.

Guilty. Proud of it. Eyeball my shoe closet and please wipe your mouth liquids on the floor as you leave.

PG's collection for Target makes you want to do a Shatzie from the classic New York movie, 'How to Marry a Millionaire'.

"I'll take that and that, and that and that and that, and that and that. And charge it please."

Take a look:

Life can be so unfair for guys, fashion wise. Especially if you look at the BAGS!

PG is hot hot hot in fashion right now. And it helps that he is so easy on the eyes. Woof!

Globally, he has been lauded as 'Singapore Born', which makes me proud, but we all know his design genius is not the result of being born or even being in this little red dot (pun intended). Still, international media has tied his name to this country of millionaires, and I hope to be one of the first few to welcome him when he opens his first standalone luxe shop in Singapore, hopefully in ION Orchard. Location lah. Very important.

The thing that is so great is that Target has again partnered with an Asian designer (just as they did with Jason Wu), and when a giant retailer does that, it sends a message that design is truly universal and Asian design makes commercial sense.

The next step is for Asian designers who've made it big in the West to get the investment to move East, where serious money can be made, and not just through licensing their lines.

We are waiting Prabal Gurung! Let Asia experience you in a real way and not just via seeing Ellen Degeneres' cousin, Kate Middleton wear your creations!

Click on the Dot to go to the Official Site:

Retail Therapy: Selfridge's Launches Daring New Retail Concept

2013-01-20T23:23:00.001+08:00

"Every situation in life is an opportunity to train the mind in awareness and compassion, focus and empathy, calm and clarity. Headspace allows us to be awake to the opportunity."

Are you curious yet?

Better question: Are you a Brand Bitch?

If you are tied to your LV and Gucci logos, this isn't for you.

When Selfridges started operating in 1909, its founder Harry Gordon Selfridge created a Silence Room where shoppers can escape from the noise of the bargains and other shoppers. This year, the store decided to revive this and extend that message. In an age where we are constantly bombarded with text messages, cell phone calls, facebook pings, twitter tweets, and email tings, this revival is not just quirky, it is downright necessary.

Watch this:

And this:

The Silence Room is a little like the Sound Room London had in Trafalgar Square last summer when I was there, except that instead of being wrapped in an interesting soundtrack, Selfridge's insulated the room to exclude all sound.

The revised version was designed by the acclaimed Alex Cochrane Architects and is more in line with New Age Zen philosophies that is currently trendy worldwide.

Some of the products that were de-branded, and yes there is fashion too

The thing I do particularly like about the campaign is the 'de-branding' aspect of it all. Sure, the guys at the store think that some products don't really need 'branding' since the products are iconic on their own and are instantly recognizable. Estee Lauder's Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizer, Heinz ketchup, Beats Headphones, all have top of mind design that truly don't need any introduction. Indeed, the cheaper products are already sold out.

Even window displays and store bags are not spared

I like the thought behind this. It is a little like how Japanese brand Muji came about years ago. They wanted to remove identifiable logos and just produce high quality functional well designed products. The irony is, their retail philosophy became a brand itself.

Were brand managers wary of de-branding?

The interesting thing is that the campaign has already drummed up a lot of publicity for its out of the box approach. If you have been to the major retail capitals of the world, you would have noticed that store windows for example are like the covers of magazines. The bigger, more colorful and animated they are, the more stores think customers will be drawn inside. This campaign has shown an alternative approach.

And it really does redefine the term: Retail Therapy.

Is it sustainable? Maybe not. People like their cell phones, their iPads and their brands. To some degree, we have all gotten used to the noise, both visual and aural, of brand marketing. BUY ME! I MAKE YOUR LIFE BETTER!

Still, like a nice yoga sala, it is always good to have a spot you can run to when you do find that it is just too much.

Here's hoping retailers worldwide will pick up this message and create their own headspace.

PS, if anyone is willing to get me the all white BEATS headphones as a gift, I wouldn't turn it down! :-)

More information can be found here:

No Noise at Selfridge's

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Judges say no to Hong Kong

2013-01-20T22:49:00.000+08:00

The intention of this blog is to share. Whether ideas, opinions, views, thoughts etc.

I didn't have much to say about last week's Asia's Next Top Model, so I didn't say anything. There was something small but it was not so crucial to run to the keyboards.

This week's episode was predictably saccharine. Now, in case anyone thinks I am against soft programming, I am not. While I still think reality shows thrive on conflict (well, at least in the US), things may function better in Asia sans the grief.

Ya think?

Not much to say about the episode proper except for a few key thoughts.

The judges.

It is not easy to say too much about them because the panel keeps changing. The one constant is Nadya, and perhaps Todd.

Nadya

Nadya has turned out to be quite the zen mother hen (or ZMH as I call it). Calm, cool, tell it like it is but in a spinster school teacher sort of way. And that is nice. She has shown herself as her own entity. Her own character. And dare I say it, I can't take my eyes off her because the camera loves her at all angles.

Todd.

Todd Anthony Tyler

Todd Todd Todd Todd Todd. I remember him to be a very committed professional when he was a model. He was dedicated and present and took directions well during a shoot. As a photographer, his portfolio is impressive. As a judge, what he says make sense. But as a TV judge, he comes across as a stiff piece of cardboard whose cheekbones don't seem to move much, and whose forehead seems frozen in a single expression. I said it before that he has a vacant look in his eyes. This has not changed. And as much as he shells out advice about being more animated during challenges, he would do well to listen to his own words and remember that this is television. And color and animation works well.

This week's guests judges designer Michael Cinco and the chief editor from Harpers Bazaar Lauren Clarke Jensen were good editions to the panel.

Michael Cinco

For one thing, Michael Cinco is an incredible talent. I think he was quite brave to let his beautiful outfits go underwater for the mermaid shoot. I did not really understand what he meant when he said that one of the contestants was 'impalpable'. Check the dictionary for the definition and you may also have question marks above your head. I put it down to fashion speak, you know, like calling someone divalicious or 'fierce and love'.

Lauren Clarke Jensen from Harper's Bazaar

LCJ from HB. Interesting. It was like watching Joanna Cole in her first few appearances on national television in the US. You know she is something and really has a lot to offer. But someone didn't tell her to be mindful of her on screen persona.

In fact, with LCJ and Michael AND sadly Nadya, the panel's outfits were all basic black. Nothing wrong with that, but even in editorial shoots, flat black has to be popped with texture and accessories to give the outfits life on camera. Nadya was still ok with the bling on her bod, but the other two...CHILD!

It's not them. Designers and Editors have different objectives in their professions. TV people however, should have taken it upon themselves to say something, to protect the interests of their guests.

Ok, this may not be a popular statement but this is where the panel needs someone like Daniel Boey. Like it or hate it, at least he makes an attempt to dress in an eye catching way for the camera. It reveals a very strategic mind that understands the medium. You may not be able to please everyone. But you can be interesting.

The judging

The elimination of the Hong Kong contestant was surprising. Not because she really was the worse of the bunch. Her send off meant that the show would truly become even more saccharine than ever. One predicts.

The Judged

Frankly, she didn't come across as a bitch. In fact Miss Japan is more the drama queen than she thinks. The producers could have milked the tension between Miss Japan and Miss Hong Kong a little bit more for the sake of the show. What is left now is a bunch of people who look like they belong in a Hello Kitty commercial.

They are the sort of people you would want to know. But to do appointment viewing on television, I am not so sure. I would love to see the ratings results.

You know that little thing that I said was not so crucial before. I guess the latest episode makes it more relevant to raise it now.

I have always cringed when the Playboy ads would come on. Not the cheeky ones in the limo. The ones where there is a static picture and a voice over says:"Want to be at Asia's Next Top Model finale party?".

How many of you go YEAH!!!! to such a boring invitation. They could have hired a better voice over talent whose tone is 'brighter'. Trust someone who has worked with some of the best US based voice over talents, it is worth the effort and expense to get these guys to sell your message.

The relationship between the sponsor (Coty Asia / Playboy fragrances) and ANTM (Asia) is not exactly organic. The show seems to be trying to get the next high fashion model that won't embarrass the franchise when she goes to London and Europe. Yet the product is not exactly high fashion and is sold in drugstores. Price point: very accessible. This ain't Dior's Poison honey.

Asia General Manager Coty Beauty, Fons Hautkamp

Bottom line though is...well the bottom line matters. And if Coty wants the brand association and coughs up enough cash to sustain the production, that may be the definition of organic for the show's producers.

Anyway the show is coming to an end soon. Usually at this stage of the competition, the girls would be jetted off to some exotic location to finish off the season. Maybe that will come with the top three.

So who do you think will be on top?

IQ 101: The Stuff in Your Stuff | PARABENS

2013-01-04T17:16:00.001+08:00

I hope some if not all of you have gone through your medicine cabinets, kitchens and beauty products to see if your stuff has Triclosan.

This is part 2 in our little class about Chemicals of Interest. Again, it is entirely up to you if it is ok or not. This is just information to help you make decisions.

You must have heard about Parabens. To companies that use this, it is simply a preservative to keep the product on the shelf longer. It would be like having preservatives in your favorite drink in the supermarket.

When you look at labels, you'd probably see one or more variation of this. Again, FMCG (Fast Moving Consumer Goods) and beauty product companies will tell you it is safe to use especially when the products contain recommended concentrations. But what if you use many products that contain parabens? Would it be like having an overdose of salt intake in your overall diet?

Here are the facts.

Parabens

used to prevent the growth of microbes in cosmetic productcan be absorbed through the skin, blood and digestive system
found in biopsies from breast tumors
linked to cancer, endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, immunotoxicity, neurotoxicity and skin irritation
known to disrupt hormone function
found in nearly all urine samples from U.S. adults of a variety of ethnic, socioeconomic and geographic backgrounds
frequently in cosmetics: ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben
appears in well over 10,000 products
appear mostly in personal care products that contain significant amounts of water, such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions and facial and shower cleansers and scrubs
while concentration limits are recommended for each paraben, these recommendations do not account for the use of multiple parabens in a single product or for exposure to parabens from several products by a single individual.

Something to note as we move along this series. Just because you spend more money on your product does not mean you are necessarily getting something chemical free. Here is a sample list of which products contain parabens.

Guerlain.

Super Aqua - Day Refreshing Cream

Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben

Olay

Moisturizing Lotion

Methylparaben, Propylparaben

Origins

Calm to Your Senses, lavender and vanilla Body Cleanser

Methylparaben, Propylparaben

Clear Improvement, Charcoal Clay Mask

Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben

Talking Labels: Alexander Wang vs 3.1 Philip Lim Pre-Fall 2013

2013-01-04T02:12:00.000+08:00

Pre-Fall 2013 is interesting.

Collectively, there are a few non-surprises. Lots of sombre tones and blacks, lots of leather and wools. There are also some eye openers, particularly in some color breakaways and prints.

The submissions from a couple of the Asian designers that are the current darlings in the West, also made me raise an eyebrow. Sometimes for good reasons, others because I just did not get it.

Take these two designers for example. Alexander Wang and Philip Lim. A Parsons dropout, Wang is identified for his 'urban, nonchalant cool' looks or better known as "Model Off Duty". Philip Lim on the other hand, is known for his tailoring and smart and wearable designs.

Both are CFDA winners and it is fair to expect lots season after season.

So let's see. I am just going to pick looks that I like, and looks that made me go hmm.

3.1 Philip Lim

His inspiration this season: Bikers and their Molls. Er, ok.

The good -

I love a good dress, especially if it is in a nude color. Make it in buttery leather, and it is even better than cheesecake. I love this from him. Clean, impeccable with an edge, especially when partnered with Julia Roberts Pretty Woman Thigh High Boots from the Strip. A good girl can be bad at the same time.

The oversized jacket IS a little voluminous for the model, yes. What I do appreciate is the injection of a beautiful color in a season that is traditionally muted. Also, the printed detail on the sleeves adds yet another visual break from what could have been otherwise a single blob of blue. The leather patch skinny pant is a real move away from the sweetness Lim has been associated with but the edginess is keeps it young and modern.

Channeling Joan Jett and Suzi Quatro, this leather vest truly rocks. There is nothing worse than a leather vest that cuts away from the body, and this anything but. I also like the proportion of the vest when worn with the top and skirt as styled. There is cohesion in the entire ensemble, which works whether as separates or as a total look.

The Bad:

Prints in Pre-Fall, great. These, not so great. I thought a designer is supposed to flatter the human form, not distort it. The leopard sweater disaster not only makes the model look huge, the color toning of the print gave her these white (wide) hips. The tonal error continues in the second look, and this time, not even leather can save the design.

I get it. Lim is known for his sweaters. But does any woman want to have a blue shrug sewn into a slouchy brown base? And then pair that with matchy matchy shorts with giant upturn cuffs. Perhaps Lim wanted his clients to lose their gender identity, but I suspect women would not be rushing to the stores to get this look.

The O.M.G:

For this section I will leave it to you to see for yourself and decide if this is a ALAMAK moment. I will however leave perhaps one or two words to express my...mmm...surprise.

Auntie Go to Office Much?

Good Print Gone Bad

Burberry Much? (But not in a good Chris Bailey way)

Alexander Wang

The Good:

If you are going to get a slate grey jacket, get this one. Sure it isn't slim and fitted but styled correctly, as shown above, the result is nothing short of gorg. The jacket skims right above the buttocks and if you aren't wearing a longer blouse or top inside, this length will give you some visual trickery as it cheats the eye into believing that you've had a butt lift and it also gives you a longer leg. Worn with a calf length pant that mimics the flare silhouette of the jacket, the outcome is completely modern, and it gives you the perfect opportunity to show off those expensive shoes. Masculinity is quite the theme for Pre-Fall and Wang has captured this without reducing women to a season of testosterone.

I am a little torn about this one. On one hand I like the ombre effect on the shorts. The length above the knee is also flattering. Going grey top to bottom sends me to snoozeville. Having said that, I do like the androgynous quality of this look. It is almost like the girl just raided her guy or gay friend's closet and pulled together an easy stylish look. I think it is the effortless simplicity that is caught my eye. Urban chic comes to mind.

It is probably unintentional, and I can be justifiably accused of being geographical about it, but I equated the wrap skirt here as Asian-esque. Again probably unintended, but the leather waist band / belt reminds me of an obi belt. I like that a wrap skirt, like its big sister the wrap dress, is so versatile and can be worn with different separates and accessories to change its feel and perception. (See second and third pictures)

I have been fortunate to have worked with talented architects. We always try to balance out form and function, while also breaking the visual line. Wang successfully introduced these elements into this look. Sharp angular lines force the eye to dissect the body, and draw the attention away from areas you may want people to avoid. It is almost like a Star Wars Empire Officer's uniform: strict and utilitarian. If this is Wang's revision of a military look, sign me up. It is truly fashion forward.

You probably can guess by now which designer I am leaning towards. This does not diminish anyone's work. However, I do think that designers can have hits and misses in any one season. Perhaps also, some herrings are placed in the collection for press buzz. And if brand image is vital, then reworking staples like sweaters, regardless of whether the newest version is successful, becomes important for the intended customer.

And at the end of the day, designers must deliver what their customer wants. So, if you were asked, based on the Pre-Fall collections of these two remarkable designers, whose customer are you? Lim's or Wang's?

IQ 101: The Stuff In Your Stuff

2013-01-01T15:37:00.002+08:00

I wanted the first post of 2013 to be empowering and educational. So on Day 1 of the new year I am launching an occasional Style IQ series that is meant to help you figure things out in the world of fashion and beauty.

So here goes.

The great thing about fashion and beauty is that everyone is able to choose how they want to express themselves. The options are all out there. And with greater consumer education, you can do what works for you.

In that spirit, I want to start a little occasional series to inform everyone about the products that they buy. The more they know, the better choices they make for themselves. I am not subscribing to any one direction nor am I an advocate. Some of the topics will interest some, and not others.

So let's start off with a story that made some waves at the end of 2012.

"There's lead acetate in hair dyes, lead in lipsticks, formaldehyde and 1, 4-dioxane in baby shampoos and other shampoos."

That was the claim in a syndicated news report.

It is fairly easy to google the ingredients in your favorite shampoo or face powder and find information regarding them. Some studies will say that the amount of chemicals contained in a product is safe for human use. Others will say prolonged and repeated exposure (considering these chemicals are found in most drugstore and even name brand products), will do long term harm.

Whatever it is, what I know is that while reading a list of chemicals may horrify for a moment, it is hard for the average consumer to really internalize them.

So let's do things one by one. Over time I will introduce other common ingredients. All you have to do is to check the name to the product in your home. And you decide if it works for you.

Triclosan

A common antimicrobial agent that accumulates in our bodies
Linked to hormone disruption and the emergence of bacteria resistant to antibiotics and antibacterial products.
Impacts the environment, ending up in lakes, rivers and other water sources, where it is toxic to aquatic life.
Found in antibacterial soaps and detergents, deodorants, toothpastes, cosmetics, fabrics and plastics, kitchen cutting boards, shoes.
Proved to be both dangerous and unnecessary—in 2005, the FDA found no evidence that antibacterial washes containing triclosan were superior to plain soap and water for protecting consumers from bacteria.
It is an endocrine disruptor and impacts thyroid function and thyroid homeostasis.
It's mode of action is similar to antibiotics, and there are concerns that bacteria that become resistant to triclosan will also become resistant to antibiotics.
Studies have found concentrations of triclosan in three out of five human milk samples as a result of exposure through personal care products containing triclosan.
Triclosan has also been found in umbilical cord blood of infants. These results raise concerns for the developing fetus during vulnerable periods of development, and make the bioaccumulative and endocrine-disruptive potential of triclosan more even more alarming.

Eye Candy: Fair Game on Asia's Next Top Model?

2012-12-31T00:31:00.000+08:00

BuhBye Girlfriend!

I held off from writing about last week's episode of Asia's Next Top Model because I knew it would have some kind of link to this week's ep.

The Vietnamese contestant was chastised by multi tasking judge Daniel Boey for not asking questions to the photographer when she did not understand what was being required from her.

Apparently it was a surprise to the judging panel when it was revealed that she had been struggling to understand the challenges since day one of the competition. It took guest judge Jeannie Mai, Vietnamese American Fashion Expert from the Style Network to help figure this out on air.

She got axed from the show.

Here is the thing.

English is not the main language in Vietnam. Having done business there, I can testify to that. And while English may be spoken widely in many Asian countries, it is still not considered to be mother tongue in this part of the world.

Asia's Next Top Model was pulling contestants from everywhere in Asia. It is my opinion that it is unrealistic to expect every model to be fluent and confident in the language. In fact, the show's producers should have prepared for this eventuality.

Perhaps casting Pan Asians that spoke with an American, Aussie, or British accent saved them to some degree. But do these Pan Asians really represent the beauties you may find on the streets of the cities in Asia? The majority of Asian women here do not have Ang Mo parents.

The Vietnamese contestant, together with a few others like the one from Malaysia and Nepal are representative of their heritage and ethnicity, something I would like to see more of in the modeling industry. It is not that I am opposed to Pan Asian beauty, I just think that there must be greater and wider representation of Asian beauty.

So if this means working with people who may have the goods but not the tongue, then so be it.

The producers of the show may argue that the Vietnamese contestant did not have the goods. But (and here is the possible link between eps) if you were to look at the latest episode, perhaps her departure was a means to an end. The Tresemme challenge had the girls filming a TVC. In English.

Ta da.

It would be reasonable to wonder if the Vietnamese contestant would have suffered royally with the challenge. Mercy killing much?

The producers of the show had an excellent opportunity to showcase different definitions of Asian beauty based on their homeland. But to do that, they had to be prepared to handle the cultural and language differences too. I don't think they did a great job in this regard.

On the upside, Boey is proving to be watchable. Even if you don't agree with his methods or his opinions, the fact is he does provide ironic humor, and a bite to the show that the girls and the other judges have failed to bring to the table. I am not pretending to be his cheerleader, but I do believe that you cannot fake passion. Boey is clearly passionate about the work. And quite honestly, some of his comments are just so to the point and clearly based on industry experience that you have to accept them to be true. His potential to be a Simon Cowell-esque type character is pretty good so far.

One just hopes, that in the absence of translators, the girls who aren't great at English, like the Thai girl, can truly understand his comments to benefit from them! Let's hope she isn't next to get axed!

Eye Candy: Miss Universe 2012 and the Asian Dilemma

2012-12-21T13:44:00.000+08:00

Last night, Miss USA was crowned Miss Universe 2012, and an uproar ensued regarding how Miss Philippines was robbed of the title.

Granted it is true that Miss Philippines had the best response during the question and answer round. Was she truly Top 5 caliber and was she the best candidate among the other Asian girls?

From a Western eye perhaps. She is definitely pretty. She has the traditional features of an Asian woman, the type Mattel would use to create an Asian Barbie prototype. Look at the picture below. She really does look like a Barbie doll and I mean that in a good way.

Still, Western beauty judges have always had a very skewed eye when it comes to pageants. The girls from the Eastern European and Latin countries tend to fare better in the rankings. But when it comes to Asian contenders, the concept of Asian beauty still seems to be entrenched in Pinkerton's view. Pan Asians, hot in Asia, don't seem to do as well as those with 'traditional' features.

Perhaps the judges may have been thinking: if they want someone with Caucasian features, they might as well select a Caucasian contestant.

If that is true, then the perception is too narrow. Asian women are no longer defined by small eyes and flat hair. Pageant judges need to widen their scope and really understand the complexities in the concept of beauty in Asia if Asian contestants are going to even have a chance in future.

In the meantime, take a look at these Asian Miss Universe contestants and ask: shouldn't the brouhaha have been more over the lack of Asian finalists?

Miss Indonesia 2012 Maria Selena

Miss Singapore 2012 Lynn Tan

Miss Thailand 2012 Farida Waller

Miss Malaysia 2012 Kimberley Leggett

Miss Korea 2012 Lee Sung-hye

Miss Philippines 2012 Janine Tugonon

Partygram!: Samantha Thavasa in Velvet Underground

2012-12-21T03:18:00.001+08:00

It was like Super Junior just landed in Velvet Underground Singapore.

Velvet Underground

Imagine walking into a room full of late teens to twenty something girls, most of whom were dressed very kawaii. Being blonde and male, I certainly felt like I was entering the twilight zone. But hey, I believe fashion is democratic and everyone has a right to expressing themselves through style. So, it was time to pull up the socks and go bravely into uncharted territory!

Guess who was trying to be Kawaii

The event was an anniversary celebration of Japanese handbag brand, Samantha Thavasa. Considering the target market, the event was successful in galvanizing the right crowd. For those of you who may not be in this category, here is a little quick info bite:

1994 founded by Mr Kazu Terada in Tokyo
2000 opened up NY operations
2004 deluxe line launched
2005 Listed on Tokyo Stock Exchange
2006 first NYC store opened / men's line launched
2006 Tinsley Mortimer chosen to co-brand a new line of handbags
Other celebs: Beyonce / Solange, Nicky Hilton, Jlo, Victoria Beckham, Taylor Momsen, Lee Byung Hun for jewelry line, Miranda Kerr
In Singapore, the brand is jointly brought in by luxury retailer Tyan and the principal in Japan.

The event was interesting for me.

For one thing, the hospitality from the Tyan staffers was unexpectedly warm. Usually, events such as these are friendly, but much of the attention is reserved for media and business partners. I was pleasantly surprised that the staff made everyone feel included. From the reception desk and right into the show. Everyone seemed genuinely happy you came.

Sweet Swag

Guests were given drink coupons and a swag bag. Inside there were some Samantha Thavasa branded donuts and discount voucher.

Host Stephanie Carrington

When I arrived, the Velvet door guards complimented my Tiffany necklace. Good start I thought. Host Stephanie Carrington was taking pictures in front of the brand wall. After being escorted inside, a Tyan staffer enthusiastically encouraged me to enjoy the show. Again, she had no clue about my background. The sincerity in welcoming everyone regardless of their titles was very, very appreciated, especially after my last little soiree at a (koff koff) atelier.

Packed with young ladies

Inside, finger food was passed around on trays by waiters. Drinks were ordered at the bar. And surprisingly, alcohol was also offered.

What was also nice: the show was not overly delayed, unlike other fashion events where late is considered normal.

Cute Girly Bags

Intentionally, the models from last night's presentation were Eastern Europeans (no surprises there since the brand consciously positions itself as Western regardless of origin). Styled by Uber fashion veterans Vik Lim and Lionel Lim (no relation), the Vivien Westwood ensembles were paired off with appropriate Samantha Thavasa bags. Hair was by Salon B who followed the direction of street casual to a tee. The hair was realistically urban, exactly the kind of look that would appeal to the customers of the brand.

Mimicking mum's or big sister's luxury brand bags

It was not hard to see why the bags have so much appeal to this group. If your market is Hermes, the cute, pastel colored bags with Mickey and Minnie Mouse hanging on them may not be for you.

Mickey and Minnie licensed products

The brand does however have sophisticated designs in its line. In fact, some of them seemed inspired by the iconic lines of other luxury brands.

Everything went on almost without any hiccups...until everyone heard gasps in front of the stage. A young guest was lying face down, behind me actually. I was taken aback and tried to help her get up. But you know how a cat lowers its center of gravity to make itself heavy if it didn't want to be picked up. Well...

There was some commotion that even the models and the host on stage were ignored for a short while. Eventually, the young lady was helped out of the club. Later we learned that she was not used to alcohol and her friend got her to down vodka. She paid for that error in trusting that friend with a broken tooth and a state of shock, not to mention the honor of being the unexpected center of attraction!

Again, and this is a testament to Tyan, I learned that they were going to send the lady home. Kudos to the staff and management of the group. They really do take care of their customers, above and beyond the call of duty.

Lucky Draw Winner, and no this isn't the guy

The event closed with a lucky draw giveaway of three bags. It was really cute that the first winner, out of the sea of salivating girls, was a guy!

Overall, for someone who thought he took a wrong turn when he arrived at the event, I am happy to say I like what the brand is about, where it came from and where it is going.

Samantha Thavasa is like a bridge label. It transitions a girl from being a high school kid that carries backpacks to a young woman who wants to be a little more grown up without losing her youthfulness. And filling that gap that exists below high end luxury brands like Gucci and Dior is so necessary.

Additional pictures courtesy of Salon B

Talking Labels: Prada Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Campaign

2012-12-18T16:00:00.000+08:00

Shot by David Sims
Black and White
Four Talents - Harvey Keitel, Benicio del Torro, Dane De Haan, Aaron Taylor - Johnson

Prada posted a 59.5% jump in net profits even with signs of a slowdown in the luxury market. In fact, its plans to open more stores in China is supported what Patrizio Bertelli, Chief Executive of the company believes to be double digit growth for 2012. As it stands, China sales account for Euro 334.6 million in revenue. Overall, the Asia Pacific market gave Prada its highest growth rate, more than 1/3 of its total net revenue.

My question is then: Where is that represented in its advertising campaign? If Asian consumers are important to the bottom line, why is there no cultural customization in Prada's imaging? Could it be that it feels Asian consumers believe that a campaign fronted by Caucasian men have a higher perceived value than if it has say, actor Chow Yun Fatt as an ambassador?

Eye Candy: Asia's Next Top Model Ep 4

2012-12-18T15:10:00.000+08:00

It is my wish that a show belonging to an international franchise does well.

To some degree, Asia's Next Top Model is performing beyond expectations with regards to the culturally customizing the content. Certainly the styling of the challenges gives the show a rich visual that perhaps the other franchises lack. And, as the trailers show, and as host Nadya mentions, friendship exists in the show.

I am all for positive programming. For example, Masterchef Australia is so much more appetizing than its US counterpart simply because the judges don't go out of their way to cut the contestants down the way Gordon Ramsay has been known to do. And the ever pleasant Junior Masterchef Australia, also shown on Star World in Asia, is a ratings winner in Oz.

However, as I mentioned before, reality shows thrive on the push/pull and the tension that exists in front and behind the camera. Audiences need a reason to root for someone. As they say, there can be no good without evil. Therein lies the importance of casting.

Daniel Boey: OK I admit it, I love his jacket!

The recent episode showed a spark. One of the contestants was having her special time of the month, and did not bring, er, appropriate gear. So judge Daniel Boey, who really should be paid a lot for double dutying so often in the show, said he would yank the statement piece that was allocated to her and give it to someone else 'more deserving'.

It was delicious.

The first real moment that would raise an eyebrow. A potential villain. The poor frail contestant.

Here is the thing though.

Boey openly said the plan was to give one contestant the wow piece. And as punishment for her grave error, he would give that to someone else.

In the same episode, another contestant said that Boey would usually look at her and compliment her directly to positively reinforce his liking for her.

Collectively, there was a sense of favoritism in the show.

Daniel Boey has earned his chops for sure. Over 20 years in the business, I would count him to be a true fashion expert in the field. He knows what works and what doesn't. He understands the strengths and failings of models.

Certainly, in a real world setting, Boey would be respected by the industry and clients alike for taking a hard stance on models whose behavior could literally affect the outcome of a very expensive production.

Also, in the real world, some models get the wow piece. Some others get more work from the show producer because of their personal relationships. And some also get blasted for not being adequately prepared for a show.

But this is not real world. It is reality tv. It is a competition show.

On a show like this, everyone gets an equal shot. And with the same opportunities, it is always appealing to see how contestants maximize the chances and how they progress from ugly duckling to beautiful swan. However, reality tv capitalizes on the human inclination towards taking sides. And so the aspirational aspects of the show must be balanced with the conflicts that can arise from the personalities.

A contestant mucking up an outfit is a money shot. And to get that recorded as footage, takes some manipulation, even if it defies a show producer's natural instinct to protect the sanctity of the clothes that's being paraded.

I doubt that this is really Boey's accountability. He is a very experienced fashion show producer, among other things. And he would function as he normally would in a real world setting. Perhaps the producers need to protect his on screen persona and mould the show a little more carefully.

The good news: Boey, being as colorful and articulate as he is, is still probably one of the best elements of the show.

Partygram!: Ong Shunmugam S/S 2013 reflections

2012-12-18T00:23:00.000+08:00

The Spring Summer 2013 campaign

Survivor Finale. New York City. Ong Shunmugam.

What do these three have in common? On the surface, nothing.

Survivor is a television show that is running into its 26th season. New York City is, well, New York City; the center of everything. Ong Shunmugam is a Singaporean fashion label that has just turned two years old.

I attended the anniversary party at the label's 'atelier'. I have been to ateliers in Paris and met the families of some of the biggest names in fashion. An 'atelier' to start with, does not belong in a basement level shop in a building in the Central Business District. Perhaps I am being a puritan, but names and titles that do not reflect content, be it of character or profession, is just a meaningless use of language.

Lovely floral display at the atelier

A nice mix of local and western desserts reflecting
the label's philosophy

Mini cupcakes for the fashion elite that
can't handle calories

But names and titles matter in fashion, it would seem.

At the anniversary party, I was lucky. I bumped into a few interesting people who could hold a conversation beyond Ong Shunmugam's ethnic inspired designs.

One of the things we discussed was about the rise and impact of the blogger. Everyone is a blogger these days. PR companies love to court them as a very real media outlet. Really.

Granted that I have one, this one you are reading, and another travel related one that you can visit by clicking the link on the right.

Like many other bloggers, I love the industries I write about. Unlike other bloggers, whose ages may be in their early to mid teens, I am not a newbie and my intentions for writing are different. I have experienced fashion from the inside, from being a sales associate to designer. On the fringe, I have incorporated it into everything I have done, from entertainment to architectural design. I have traveled the world, met and got acquainted with industry leaders. My interest is to use this platform to really get into the business of fashion, and not just to splash pictures of runway shows and campaigns.

I am not begrudging these young writers. They are the next generation of fashion journos, one hopes. Early exposure and opportunity can only lead to growth. I am grateful that others have shown me great kindness, when I first started out.

These days though, it has gone beyond validating effort and moulding young minds. Teenagers are being treated as fashion media elite and to some degree, accorded with a slightly false sense of power. It is reasonable to wonder if this is a smart strategy.

Firstly, their reach depends largely on 6 degrees of separation. And this usually means that their demographics are within the age ranges of the bloggers themselves. One wonders what makes PR companies and luxury labels think that 15 year olds or their peers have the spending power to buy that couture outfit. Yes it is pretty to look at, but isn't the point of media coverage to encourage a call to action, that is, to buy the clothes? The demographics also means the writing style will appeal specifically to that group. So we aren't talking about Suze Menkes and Tim Blanks level of reporting. We are talking light hearted banter. And there is nothing wrong with that, except that labels seeking to do business need their creations to be taken seriously by the buyer and the media and ultimately that sways what happens on the shop floor.

That brings me to New York City. I was just saying recently that my time in New York was a blur because there was so much living to do. Any writer will tell you that one can only write authentic stories if one LIVES LIFE. I would venture a guess that regardless of how matured some teenagers are, their life experience is yet to flourish.

But in fashion, PR companies and labels choose their alliances. They make choices. Just like the contestants on the Survivor Finale that just ended last night.

The expected thing was that the last four strategized and blind sighted each other with the sole purpose to get ahead. Sometimes it paid off, sometimes not. And you are off the island.

We talked about strategies at the anniversary party. Through the conversation, I learned that, after being away for so long, fashion is still territorial and it's all about your alliances. Who do you support, who do you hate, who do you gossip about, whose back do you scratch, who do you do business with. Choosing one side may mean having your access to another blocked.

The designer wondering who the hell
was taking her picture.

It all came to a head when a friend said he would introduce me to the designer. I had previously tried to contact this designer for this blog, primarily because I wanted to support her Asian centric design aesthetics. I saw her mixed heritage, her publicity campaign, her products to have a unique story that needed to be told. I received no reply from the label or the designer.

When I was introduced to her, she was gracious. When I told her my intentions, she asked me to write to the generic email address, something I told her I had done before twice. Busted. She blushed and said she remembered my emails. But, call it honesty or PR suicide, she said she put them down the priority list (until they disappeared from memory) because, well, she was getting inundated with emails from other media. And to add salt to injury, she said, if my friend who apparently is somebody was to write her, she would immediately reply.

Nice.

Still, she offered to write me over the weekend to touch base with me. I have not heard from her since. And this was even though I had sent her a congratulatory note on Saturday.

Truth is, I am not bitter about it.

Even though she had not seen me before, I've been around too long to be bitter. If you really want to be a media person, and if blogs are true bona fide media outlets now, then you have to suck it up and accept that you win some, and you lose some. And this is regardless of whether you are established or not.

Of course I want a local label like Ong Shunmugam to make it. Sure, it has received accolades from Elle Singapore and had a showing in Paris. But these are early days yet. And the proof is in the pudding, not in the grandiose terms used in its marketing to try and elevate the status of the label before it is even 'there' yet. Fashion is a journey. It is who lasts that matters, and you are only as good as your last show, alliance or no alliance.

Yes I know, the designer will be totally upset with this report. And her supporters would be appalled by what seems to be first impressions (although apparently she also dissed yet another person days after at a media event). Fact is, while I understand the concept of PR suicide, my intentions are never to destroy dreams. If the opinions featured here are not popular, and not taken for what it is, to try and shed light on a different point of view, then so be it. I have not broken any promises to anyone. My integrity is intact.

Whatever her reasons are for not reverting back, or for dissing people that appear to be 'not important', I am certain they are intended to benefit her business. And I respect that. All too often though, the fashion industry throws its air kisses and make flighty promises they never intend to keep, and all too often, this becomes an expected habit. It is karmic and it doesn't yield any good outcomes. The good news, as in all choices, you can choose to be different.

So, if you scratch beyond the surface, those three things mentioned at the top of the page are somewhat connected. Ultimately, being a Survivor in the business of fashion, requires a little more wisdom from living life like you would in New York City, isn't that right Ong Shunmugam?

All the best to the label and designer, and I do mean that.

A lovely songstress from Denmark I had the pleasure
of meeting at the event