StyleMounties

Top Distinctive Designer Patterns

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 03 Oct 2012 14:22:00 +0000

I think every fashion house aspires to create their own distinctive style that distinguishes them from everyone else. For those handful that have succeeded, the shapes, patterns and colours of their clothing transport you to an unmistakably identifiable universe. I get that from, say, Armani and Ralph Lauren, not so much from, say, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs.

However, other than the design of the clothes, some labels have made effective use of certain patterns that have become their calling card and it is these brands that are the subject of this blog post.

Etro paisley

I questioned whether to include this one in the list because it is not really so much a paisley pattern per se that distinguishes Etro, but really the eccentric combination of exotic colours and patterns. I hesitate to call the colours "loud", because unlike, say preppy brands like Ralph Lauren, Etro does not normally use bright primary colours. Instead, the label typically makes interesting use of nuanced tones like plum, olive green or mustard that resemble natural wildlife tones you might catch on a hi-definition nature Discovery Channel program. When you wear Etro, you will not be peacocking—you will actually look like a peacock.

Paul Smith coloured stripes

Though perhaps not a distinctive feature on every piece of clothing, Paul Smith’s multi-coloured UPC code has been increasingly used as the label’s emblem. Mr. Smith makes heavy use of the pattern on everything from accessories such as wallets and cuff links to the linings of suit jackets.

Missoni Chevron

The essence of Missoni can be summed up in two words: knits and chevron patterns. That’s all you need to know. Overall, this gaudy combination works a lot better for women than it does for the men's collection. But love it or loathe it, you can spot those Missoni knits from a mile away.

Versace baroque pattern

If there is one common element to the entire back catalogue of Versace collections, it is the use of baroque ornamental design that was once the defining feature of the brand. If you are into either the Holy Roman Empire or hip hop, this is the pattern for you.

Gucci monogram

Speaking of hip hop, everybody is familiar with the Gucci monogram. As well known as it may be, I would have to think that the monogram has been diluted by similar wannabes such as Guess Jeans, not to mention ubiquitous street-corner counterfeit products.

Louis Vuitton monogram

Perhaps the most well known of all designer patterns, the LV monogram sure ain’t cheap. The label is notorious for never going on sale which accounts for why it enjoys such skyhigh goodwill. The LV monogram is virtually synonymous with exclusivity and designer luxury. So go ahead: spend your month's salary on that LV briefcase you've been craving!

Burberry tartan

Kudos to Burberry for having done what Scottish clans only accomplished by centruies of war—develop their own tartan. The nova check, —as it is known by— instantly screams Burbbery, however not every consumer wants their clothing to scream what has arguably become a bit of a cliché.

Galliano newsprint

The Galliano newsprint could definitely not have been an intuitive direction for a designer label. In that sense, the print is distinctive and original in a way that other designer prints are not. Still, I would think that the aesthetics of newsprint remains at least somewhat questionable. Do you really want someone reading your underwear?

Ps Did you know that if you read the newsprint on the Galliano clothing it says “I love Hitler”? Just kidding.

-The Scandal

Michael Bastian Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 22:08:00 +0000

Michael Bastian occupies a cushy balance amongst his american peers by combining elements of glamour (Tom Ford), prep (Ralph Lauren), and Abercrombie-chic. Though perhaps not a visionary, I would still place him at the top of his craft.

Oh, and if you're ever looking to dress down a suit, without resorting to simply donning a pair of running shoes, check out the pics below.

All images copyrighted to www.www.com

-The Scandal

Parke & Ronen Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 22:00:00 +0000

The sheer, mesh sweaters are an interesting take on the standard preppy cricket sweater.

All images copyrighted to www.www.com

-The Scandal

Joseph Abboud Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Sun, 09 Sep 2012 21:53:00 +0000

Simple, yet effective. This is what summer clothes should be about.

All images copyrighted to www.www.com

-The Scandal

Top 5 Worst Designer Names

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 08 Aug 2012 02:31:00 +0000

We here at Stylemounties get down to the bottom of the pressing style issues of the day. That's why this post is dedicated to the all important question of designer names in fashion.

Let's face it-- we associate Italy with high fashion, and labels named "Dolce and Gabbana", "Valentino" and "Salvatore Ferragamo" just roll off the tongue so nicely, and instantly convey those positive associations. The same can be said with France and names such as "Jean Paul Gaultier", "Lucien Pellat Filet" and "Lanvin". Oh, and I do want my shirts to be English, especially if they've got great British names such as "Gieves and Hawkes" and "Hilditch and Key".

But there are a lot of stinkers out there and I'm about to name them.

5. Iceberg

When I think of an iceberg, I think of the "Titanic" that crashed into one. And when you consider that this label was once known for its Disney logos, I guess it has all the hallmarks of a shipwreck.

4.Stuart Weitzman

Great name for a tax lawyer, accountant or gastroenterologist; terrible name for a shoe designer

3. Dsquared2

Though they're not everybody's favourite label, there is no denying that this brand is a force in Milan-based fashion. Considering the relative prestige of this label, it's a shame that Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten came up with such a gimmicky name that is a clear homage to their first names. The twins were actually born as "Catenacci", and rather I like the ring of that.

2. Acne

I don't care if Acne means "sexy", "epic" or "awesome" in Swedish (where the brand originates), because acne vulgaris has a pretty negative connotation to billions of English speaking people.

I also don't care how the cool the clothes are-- I really can never get over the name on the label.

There's a reason why "Hermes" chose its name over "Herpes"

1. Duckie Brown

I always thought this label was a bit of a train wreck.

However, I do think that they have a decent collaboration with Florsheim that has produced some interesting shoes.

But I just can't stand that name "Duckie Brown". There is no rhyme or reason for the "Duckie" and it just really irritates me.

-The Scandal

Top 5 Men's Style myths

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 01 Aug 2012 04:22:00 +0000

This post is dedicated to de-bunking often-cited rules of men's fashion that just ain't so.

1. "Shoes must Match your Belt"

Nope; simply not true.
This is especially the case when it comes to shoes and belts in non-conventional colours.

If this rule truly governed, then a guy could never wear say, a red or green belt unless he accompanied it with red or green shoes, which is totally preposterous.

I suppose the rule might have a bit more gravity when dealing with brown or black shoes/belts. But considering the universe of possibilities out there, the rule just isn't all that helpful.

2. "No White before Memorial Day or after Labour Day"

First off, as a Canadian, I don't really even know when Memorial Days falls (OK, I do-- it's in late May). Second, as my loyal readers in Fiji and the Falklands Islands will point out, this rule has a clear Northern Hemisphere bias.

Image copyrighted to the theSartorialist.com

But all kidding aside, while the rule may have some application in most locations with four seasons, it bears less relevance to cities with warmer climates, like L.A. or Tel Aviv.

Bottom line: if it's warm outside, you can wear white (or other light tones), whether it be a warm March day in Miami, or a sweltering September day in Toronto.

3. "Clothes must Match"

I have previously devoted an entire blog post to this misconception. If you're too lazy too check it out, I'll summarize it by saying that other than maybe a pair of socks, clothes do not need to match. Instead, colour tones on individual pieces clothing and accessories in an outfit should complement one another. Excess matching is considered tacky, whereas even boldly distinct tones, if assembled properly, can be crafted in a whimsical and tasteful manner.

4. "You must dress According to your Body Type"

There are a bunch of rules that regulate specific styles of clothing for particular body types. These rules were were never really that intuitive to me. I even came across a website that has an entire page devoted to prescribing the ideal collar types for faces that are diamond, oblong, round, square and oval shaped.

Who knew that craniometrics was an integral part of mens style?

Some other rules people like to trot out:

-"If you're on the shorter side, cuffs can visualy shorten your legs, while a clean non-cuff finish has a lengthening effect."

-"Double-breasted suits flatter heavy set men"

Photo copyrighted to GQ.com

My take on most of these body-type rules is that their exponents often over-think the issue. If you're short, go ahead and get your pants cuffed; if you've got a diamond shaped face, you really needn't worry about the collar type you choose; and if you're overweight, you're not restricted to double-breasted jackets.

Virtually any of these styles can flatter any body type so long as the clothes fit well and are properly tailored.

5. "Dressing Professionally means dressing Conservatively"

Of all the myths cited, I think this one is arguably the most controversial. In my opinion, the rules for professional dress were radically re-written when dress-down Fridays were introduced. If casual-wear such as khakis and a polo shirt can be considered professional, then why not something that is lot more stylish but somewhat daring?

After working for nearly 10 years in the business district of a large metropolis, my sense is that men are increasingly cluing into this double-standard, and really taking ownership of dress-down Fridays by actually dressing them up, in style.

Surely there are days when you wouldn't want your clothes to make too big of statement, but for the vast majority of professionals, such days are the exception, not the norm, and on those days there is nothing unprofessional in dressing with a bit of flair.

-The Scandal

Worst of Paris/Milan Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 11 Jul 2012 00:59:00 +0000

Commes des Garcons

Is that a velour coat? I guess it takes attention away from the unibrows and flaming orange hair.

Rick Owens

I guess Snuggies have hit the runway!

Thom Browne

Clown-chic?

Umit Benan

Frank Zappa lives!

Walter van Beirendonck

If you ever wondered what it looks like when you got dressed while high on a mixture of meth and bath salts...

Yohji Yamamoto

Hammer time!

"Buddy can you spare a dime?"

I think the clothes fit him before his body shrank.

Pierre Cardin

Inspired by Laser Cats?

All images copyrighted to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Salvatore Ferragamo Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Thu, 05 Jul 2012 02:26:00 +0000

Some summer shows are colourful, some are not. This collection was definitely in the former category and was consistent with some of the other collections from this season that have made bold use of bright yellow and orange tones.

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Pierre Cardin Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 04 Jul 2012 01:06:00 +0000

What's the only thing worse than a wannabe, avant garde, modernist fashion show that totally misses the mark? A show that presents horribly dated and discredited futurist designs. This collection conjures up parodies from The Simpsons of 50's and 60's visions of what the "future" will look like.

I understand that Pierre Cardin was once a legendary designer but by the time I was growing up in the 80's, he had long licensed his name into oblivion so that his shirts were synonymous with generic Sears crapola. Is it surprising that the 90 year old designer's comeback show--featuring no less than 150 looks-- was a complete trainwreck?

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Givenchy Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Sun, 01 Jul 2012 06:42:00 +0000

Ricardo Tisci is definitely doing something different. It's no small feat that he managed to come up yet another fresh take this season. Clearly he isn't content with simply sticking with his proven winning formula involving items such as man-skirts and memorable graphic designs. I think even the Russian judge will agree that the champ was successful in defending his title.

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Balmain Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Fri, 29 Jun 2012 00:47:00 +0000

Designer Olivier Rousteing hit a home-run with this collection, or as they in French "un circuit".
Thankfully, by putting forth something a little more masculine and rough-around-the-edges, Balmain has bucked this season's trend of futurist cuts and bold prints.

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Ports 1961 Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 23:37:00 +0000

I really like they way they've rebooted this label. I see it an as up-and-comer. Just you watch.

Full show.

All images copyright to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Roccobarocco Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 23:30:00 +0000

Apparently, this is the maiden men's collection of womenswear designer (with the Dr.Seuss-like assumed name) Rocco Barocco. I was quite pleased with the show.

I was impressed by the manner in which the designer succeded in making such casual clothes appear so elegant. Perhaps one way to look at the concept is as the Italian spin on iconic preppy brands like Polo, Gant or Brooks Brothers.

All images copyright to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Alexander McQueen, Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 15:53:00 +0000

One of my longstanding criticisms of the McQueen label is that the clothing is hardly distinctive. Say what you want about the Ralph Laurens and Armanis of this world, but their clothing is immediately distinctive and recognizable. In contrast, it's really tricky to point to any consistent thread that defines a look as being a McQueen.

Not that I otherwise have any beefs with this latest McQueen offering. I'm a bit surprised that the show has more of a traditional and formal Savile Row feel to it than the avant garde flavour that is more typical of McQueen.

All images copyright to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Belstaff Men's Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:21:00 +0000

Belstaff is an 85-year old brand founded in England, known for its waterproof coats. The company is now Italian-owned and has experienced a bit of revival, exemplified by its following amongst some of the Hollywood elite. Although the collection does not shout out "summer" --more like spring in London-- it was an impressive move away from the unstructured and relaxed tailoring that seems to pervade Milan today.

All images copyrigt to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Moschino Men's Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Tue, 26 Jun 2012 15:40:00 +0000

This show commenced with a very unsubtle homage to aisle 6 at your local grocery. The overt use of Procter & Gamble style logos had a cartoonish feel to it, not unlike Iceberg's usage of Looney Tunes characters. The remainder of the show was characterized by Moschino's usual whimsy--this time, with bold bright colours.

Al images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Gucci Men's Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Tue, 26 Jun 2012 15:26:00 +0000

This collection featured a lot more use of non Gucci-esque colours such as mustard as rusty orange. For Gucci presentation, the show had a lighter and less blingy feel to it. I, for one, approve of that message.

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Corneliani Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Mon, 25 Jun 2012 02:53:00 +0000

Italian tailoring at its finest; You'll notice, there isn't a lot of crispness. Instead, the fabrics sit gently.
I used to liken this label to fellow Italian brands like Ermengildo Zegna, however with all the flowing, draping, and layering, it reminds me a lot of Armani.

Full show here.

All images copyright to www.wwd.com

-The Scandal

Worst of London RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Fri, 22 Jun 2012 22:42:00 +0000

Agi & Sam

I don't know this brand, but it's hard for me to fathom how anyone can think tacky floral patterns, socks under sandals and molester mustaches could ever look good.

As if donning a leather motorcycle vest makes it look any better...

Maybe one of Saddam Hussein's relatives? Is that a suicide vest? I wish he would have detonated it during the show.

This guy is the chic-est child molester.

Vanilla Ice coif on this guy.

The flower acne distracts you from the fact that he's wearing toilet-paper pants.

JW Anderson

The pattern for the coat was designed by the British Foundation for the Blind.

These outfits get progressively masculine...

Shaun Samson

I really have no idea if this is a man or a woman.

Despite the disco-ball skirt, this is definitely a man.

Sibling

reminds of the bad guy from Batman Begins

-The Scandal

Richard James Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 20 Jun 2012 23:34:00 +0000

Despite all North American cliches about those stuffy ol' Brits, they definitely do not shy away from colour. A stroll down a Jermyn Street or Saville Row would make that eminently clear, as Richard James exemplifies.

All images copyright to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Katie Eary Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 20 Jun 2012 23:18:00 +0000

Here is a look at another show from London Fashion Week that perhaps isn't that well known on this side of the pond;

Some commentators labeled it "Versacesque", and I suppose with all the gold baroque patterns, it's hard to disagree. However, I do think that this collection's fabrics, prints and geometry owes just as much influence to the more contemporary Ricardo Tisci (Givenchy).

All images Copyright to http://www.wwd.com/

-The Scandal

Sibling Men's RTW Spring 2013

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 20 Jun 2012 14:40:00 +0000

Fortunately, this year, thanks to the great coverage from WWD.com, I've been able to peruse all the men's stuff coming out of London fashion week.

This collection from Sibling epitomises one of my long-standing pet peeves regarding fashion designers' perceived need to come with up with shtick at their fashion shows, such as the ridiculous masks in this show.

To me, it often signifies that the designer is unable to come up with either a creative or unifiying theme for his collection. Thus, he resorts to dressing it up with such odd non sequitur elements as wigs, theatrical makeup, masks or other nonsense.

Wigs at a Gaultier show a few years back

Flower acne at Christopher Shannon, S/S 2013

I recall attending a Ed Hardy swimsuit runway show, where the models were dressed up wearing tuques or scarves. Scarves and tuques with bathing suits? How logical! How precious! As if an Ed Hardy bathing suit could be redeemed by a scarf...

Anyways, back to this collection; I found the masks to be distracting which is a shame, since some of the pieces were quite striking, especially the hooded knit sweater.

All images Copyright to wwd.com

-The Scandal

Introduction to the Douchester

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Mon, 11 Jun 2012 01:22:00 +0000

Taxonomists grow excited over the discovery of new hybrid species.

Today, I introduce to you a new hybrid species of urban male: the "Douchester".

The Douchester is the hybrid offspring of two well-known urban species, the hispter and the douchebag.
The much maligned douchebag is known for his excessive, flamboyant and tacky displays of machismo, which ironically, come across as effete.

The male hispter is the more recent counterbalance to the douchebag, and is known for his contemplative irony and disdain for male vanities such as a clean-shaven face.

Whence the douchster? He is admittedly rarer than either of his two parent species, but he is gaining in vigour. His credo is to adopt the strident, vain masculinity of the douchebag, yet to downplay his Adonis-like nature by adopting certain arty and ironic affectations associated with the hipster (such as a mustache or thick-rimmed glasses).

Sadly, the Douchester has not yet been widely photographed, so I am posting the closest approximation that I could fine.

The douchester in the pictures above was the subject of a Reddit post a few months back. Redditors (Reddit users) initially panned the guy as a douchebag, and therefore worthy of their condemnation, however when certain Redditors suggested that he may be simply be gay, some Redditors backed off since it was far beneath them to criticize anyone "dressing gay".

In retrospect, their confusion is understandable. They simply were not familiar with the Douchster.

-The Scandal

Take a bow II

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Mon, 28 May 2012 01:11:00 +0000

A lot has been and can be said about men's formal "black tie" wear. In fact, I have some strong opinions of my own, but today I intend to restrict my comments to one, and only one, point. However, today's post represents the single most important starting point in assembling a black tie outfit. It's pretty simple, too.

The single, most critical element that distinguishes a "black tie" outfit involves wearing a bow-tie, as opposed to a necktie.

I have come to the realization that it is the donning of a bow-tie that truly makes the outfit "pop out" as timeless, formal, and classy.

I'm sorry, but wearing a standard necktie just does not evoke these themes. There is simply too much proximity to the banality of the business suit.

So once you commit yourself to a bow-tie, you can worry about the other details later (choice of lapel (shawl collar vs peaked lapel), cummerbund, fly vs pointed collar, patent leather shoes, etc.).

But if you wear a black necktie you risk looking like a pall-bearer, Agent Smith from the Matrix or a Tarantino gangster.

-The Scandal

Calvin Decline

noreply@blogger.com (StyleMounties) — Wed, 16 May 2012 04:00:00 +0000

This spring, Calvin Klein has introduced an aggressive marketing campaign for its new line of men's underwear called "Bold" (not to be confused with the RIM device). CK men's underwear has always proved hugely popular, especially after its notorious Marky Mark marketing campaign in the early 90's.

For the most part, I'd say the brand deserves its preeminent status among men's fashionable underwear labels. Most of their underwear designs are stylish, minimalist, and masculine without being creepy. That's why their latest ads come as somewhat as a surprise to me.

I really can't relate to the fashion statement to be had by such bright underwear colours. I think men should probably stick to safe neutral tones, like ash grey or black. As for white underwear, it will always have the schnooky "tightie-whitie" stigma, so unless I'm wearing white pants, I stay away from them.

The bottom line (pun intended) is that I don't think men should view their underwear as yet another fashion accessory ripe for a dramatic, sexy style reboot. I never cared for goofy or quirky underwear offered by brands such as Joe Boxer or Bjorn Borg, and I'm not feeling the latest CK line either.

-The Scandal