Late last year we decided that we wanted to spend the bulk of 2020 in Portugal. We had spent about 2 months exploring the country in 2019 and fell in love with the Southern Coast, a region called the Algarve.

By default, Americans are only allowed to stay in Portugal for a total of 90 days within a 180 day time period. We wanted the ability to stay longer. To do this we needed to apply for Portuguese residency. The process is quite involved (ideally we’d explain more in a future blog post but no promises). That said, Portugal is one of the easier European countries for Americans to get a residency permit. We did a lot of research, talked to friends who had already done it, and decided to go for it.

In addition to requesting copies of official documents, filling out loads of paperwork, obtaining a Portuguese bank account and more, you are required to apply in person in the US city with a Portuguese Consulate that is nearest to your tax residency. In our case, the designated city was  San Francisco, California.

To summarize, in order to apply for a long-term visa in Portugal, the four of us needed to fly from Europe (we were actually in Portugal at the time) to San Francisco for an in-person meeting that would only last about an hour. 

In early January, before few had predicted what would become the global pandemic we bought plane tickets to go to San Francisco. Since this is one of our favorite cities, we decided to stay a week and introduce it to the kids. At the end of the week, I would return to Portugal in order to get back to working in a European time zone while Mickelle and the kids would pop up to Seattle to visit family for another week. After a week in Seattle, they would return to Portugal where we’d officially set-up a home base for a year.

That was our plan in early January. It seemed pretty solid at the time, but the universe had other plans…

San Francisco

We arrived in San Fran just after the mayor declared a State of Emergency due to the Coronavirus. This was before the first case of the virus had even been detected in the city so everything was still open. It was business as usual for the city.

Our residency appointment went fine. It was uneventful and lasted about an hour.

While in the city we hit all the sites. Painted Ladies, Golden Gate Bridge, Fisherman’s Wharf, Ghirardelli Square, etc. 

The hands-down favorite site for Mick and I was Alcatraz. After the tour wrapped, Ela asked the Park Ranger a question. The Ranger thought it would be better to show us the answer instead of simply telling it to us. To do this, he took us to the original cell block of Alcatraz. It’s normally not open to the public. The volunteer ranger went above all expectations and made the event that much more meaningful for us and the kids. He even took our picture in the cell. This proves it always pays to ask questions. 

The kids’ favorite attraction was Pier 39, also known as the Sea Lion pier.

After an amazing week in San Francisco, it was time to move on. By this time, the Coronavirus had picked up a little steam. A few people had died in the Seattle area but there was still not a whole lot known. Social distancing was not even a thing yet.

Mick and I decided that she and the kids would still go to Seattle. We recognized that things could escalate quickly but in the absence of more information we decided we would stick to our original plan. Plus canceling a trip to see family and friends is heartbreaking. She and the kids jumped on their flight to Seattle, and I jumped on mine to Portugal.

Six days later, on the eve of their flights back to Portugal, the US announced they were suspending all European travel into the US. Things had clearly escalated! 

Even though technically they could have rejoined me in Portugal it was clear we needed to rethink it. They would be flying out of Seattle (which at the time was the epicenter for the virus in the US), Ela had a slight cold, and the first leg of their flight had been canceled. I’m sure we could have pulled it off and rebooked their flights, but it was clear the risks were higher and the whole trip would have been quite the ordeal. We were also concerned that they might get stuck in either San Fran or London on the way back to Portugal. 

It was not a fun decision to make. We knew when we made it that it would result in at least 2 months before we’d see each other again. However, it was an easy decision. We were (and still are) healthy and safe. I had a place to stay in Portugal and they would be surrounded by family. It simply was not worth the risk.

So what have we been doing for the past 6+ weeks in lockdown?

Portugal

I returned to Portugal and began to set up our new apartment. We rented it before we left for San Francisco. Having a lease is actually a prerequisite for the visa application. Our new apartment is in an incredible community in the Algarve. 

Initially, when I arrived the family was going to join me in a week so my first order of business was to stock an empty pantry for a family of four. The run on toilet paper was not really a thing here but if it had been I’d be well-positioned. We have bidets in our new apartment.

My unknown excess buying later proved fruitful since a week later Portugal would announce its own State of Emergency as well as social distancing guidelines. Like the rest of Europe and later the US, all non-essential businesses were ordered to stay closed until further notice. 

As of this writing, the ban has proven effective for most of Portugal. The majority of the cases have been in the Northern part of the country. All and all I’m impressed with how the country has responded to the pandemic up to this point.

So have I been bored being by myself in a new country during a State of Emergency? Surprisingly no.

Lonely yes (I miss Mick and the kids a ton and we talk daily), but I’ve not been bored. 

I’ve been working during the day and that keeps me plenty busy. In the evenings and on the weekends I’ve been doing things around our new apartment to spruce it up, reading, running, and exploring new hobbies. 

The community we live in sits right on the Atlantic Ocean and has an incredible beach that I walk or run daily. The community is filled with over a thousand vacation homes and has very few full-time residents. I’d guess the entire community is maybe 10% occupied right now and because of the State of Emergency people are not supposed to come here for a weekend getaway. As a result, I frequently have the beach to myself. 

There’s also a 36 hole golf course that is perfectly manicured and 100% closed to golfers. It’s surreal to jog the golf cart paths and not have to worry about being hit by a ball or sharing the path with a cart. 

For hobbies, I’ve recently taken up studying the tides, moon, stars, and weather here. It’s fascinating to have the time to explore and learn more about the environment with such isolation. 

Next up is to study a bit about the geology of the rocks and seashells I’ve been collecting from my walks along the beach. I’ve come across some interesting ones and my natural curiosity is drawing me in to learn more. 

I’ll probably start studying the Portuguese language at some point. There are incredible resources online and I’m looking forward to checking them out.

In addition to having friends nearby, we have a thoughtful landlord that’s been checking in with me weekly via email, and a nice neighbor who told me about an organic fruit, veggie, and meat company that delivers to the apartment weekly.

While I’d rather be enjoying the Algarve with the family, I’m not miserable or bored. I consider myself fortunate in that I have strong internet, wide-open beautiful land to explore, healthy food and plenty of side projects.

Seattle (written by Mickelle)

I miss my husband. A lot. However, we’re not miserable either. The kids and I are at my mother’s house. She traveled with us through Morocco and Egypt for three months last year so we already know we get along in small spaces through potentially stressful situations. My mother is one of my best friends and traveling makes me deeply appreciate the times we get to be together. This is no different. 

There’s no shortage of things for us to do either. Now that we’re establishing a home base in Europe, I’m going through our stored items finding our favorite kitchen gadgets, games, toys and clothing that can be taken by plane to Portugal. Yes, to Ken’s chagrin, I’m willing to pay for lots of extra luggage! Oh, the benefits of a home base. 

Additionally, Tag and I are visiting our rental home and taking care of overdue tasks. He’s helped me clean the roof and gutters. Not necessarily fun, but not horrible either, especially when there isn’t a whole lot else going on. 

As for homeschooling, we’re kind of doing that. Ela hasn’t had a break all year. Her online Biology class keeps her busy for multiple hours each week. That week in San Fran. Yeah, she had to make up everything she missed. As for Tag, I didn’t bring anything with us. In fact, all we brought were half-filled carry-on bags. Tag did take a class on the Coronavirus, has been working through different Khan Academy modules sponsored by Pixar, reads several hours a day and has been watching lots of documentaries at night. Everything counts in my book. 

Luckily the weather has been fantastic. I found the good ole croquet set and have been playing with the kids. My sister loaned us her bocce ball set. I discovered the kids know almost nothing about baseball (#kenfail) so we are teaching them to throw the ball and catch it in a mit. Homer, my mom’s dog, has never walked so much! Tag briefly helped me mow the lawn.

We’ve been traveling for almost 6 years. It’s nice to take a rest at our original home and hang out with the family, even when it has to be from 6 feet away. Grandma always has batches of our favorite cookies. Grandpa fixed up my bike and it’s ready to go. Aside from being apart from Ken, it’s nice being here. I don’t regret it. 

We were only 48 hours away from starting our year in one place. That’s the hard piece to swallow. 

What about our Residency Permit?

We don’t know the exact status of our residency permit. We know our application is in the Portuguese Embassy in San Francisco and that the city is currently under a Shelter in Place order until at least May 3rd. Our assumption is that our applications are sitting on a desk in the embassy waiting for people to be able to return to work. Until then we are in a state of limbo but we have high hopes. We promise a blog post announcing the outcome once we know the status with certainty.

Stay Safe

Mickelle, the kids and I are hopeful we’ll be reunited in 4-6 weeks but we’ll see. As we’ve seen, a lot can change in a short period of time. We feel it’s important to be conservative with our travel plans in order to be respectful of others and honor government guidelines (as well as to stay healthy).

We are surrounded (albeit virtually for me) by our friends and family and wish everyone reading this the same. Stay safe!

As of today, December 29, 2019, we’ve been nomadic for 2,000 days (roughly 5.5 years). To mark the milestone, I compiled a few stats:

• Continents visited = 3-4 (North America, Africa, Europe, and Asia for Ken)

• Countries visited = 30-34 (Tag 30, Ela 31, Mickelle 33, Ken 34)

• Miles run by Ken = 4,618 (7,432 kilometers)

• Countries where we’ve visited dentists = 8  (Since becoming nomads, we have not visited a dentist in the US)

• Haircuts for Tag = Officially 3 (but there have been a few trims)

How We’ve Done It

Since we first left Seattle, Washington in July 2014 we have slow traveled, meaning we spend a considerable amount of time wherever we go in order to experience the people, food, and culture of every place. As a result, we average 1-3 months in each country we visit. Sometimes more (10 months in Guatemala), and sometimes less (1 night in Swaziland).

Slow travel allows us to better get our bearings in each place. We form more substantial memories about the neighborhoods, cafes, delicacies, and local attractions. It’s also a great way to reduce the cost and environmental impact of travel. In short, slow travel works well for us. 

Another benefit of slow travel is that it gives us time to work, school, play and relax without a hurried feeling. We aren’t constantly on the go. We often have weekends without any commitments. Sometimes we wander a new place, other times we just enjoy hanging out as a family. A month in one place also means we can stock up on groceries and fix our favorite meals. In a new place, it can take a week or two to get to know the grocery store and find the best place for an afternoon treat. A month is also long enough to unpack everything. We get to enjoy the art supplies, games and make significant progress in online classes.

Income

No, we are not independently wealthy. I have a job and like most people reading this, my job funds my family’s lifestyle. Obviously, it’s a remote job. I don’t have to go into an office. I simply jump onto wifi and dive in. I can literally work from wherever there is solid (and I do mean legitimately strong) wifi. If the signal is weak, I can’t do my work. As a result, you won’t find me working from the beach sipping margaritas. 

If you’re looking for a remote gig I recommend you start by checking out sites like WeWorkRemotely and FlexJobs. However more traditional companies are also offering remote work options, so do not limit yourself to just remote specific job boards. There’s a lot out there for all kinds of skill sets.

Schooling

We homeschool the kids. Mickelle takes the lead (okay she does 99.5% of the work). Teaching the kids is her full-time job. She’s a certified and experienced teacher. However, she insists that anyone with the desire and time can homeschool. It doesn’t require a degree.

We are a bit unconventional with our schooling but Mickelle makes sure both kids are strong in the core subjects, and she regularly assesses their growth and development. 

Both kids receive a substantial amount of their learning from wherever we happen to be. This year included learning about Islamic cultures during Ramadan while in Morocco, studying the construction of ancient pyramids by climbing inside them in Egypt, seeing how shepherding is performed in Scotland...and much much more.
As the kids get older and they want to deep dive into more complicated subject matter, we’re taking advantage of more online resources. Ela has developed a strong interest in science, specifically biology, genetics, and chemistry. Online classes at Next Level Homeschool saves Mickelle a lot of planning time and presents Ela with a rigorous curriculum as well as weekly projects.

Lodging

Since lodging can be our family’s biggest monthly expense, it’s critical we find ways to minimize the cost. However, it’s also important that we have enough space and comfort because home is where school and work also happen.
We find housing through many different channels, but the two most common are AirBnB (pro-tip, you get major discounts when you rent for a month at a time), and housesitting. For the later, we use and recommend TrustedHousesitters. If you’re looking to learn more about housesitting (which is generally code for pet-sitting) you might want to read our post on it. We generally spend about 2/3 of the year renting and 1/3 of the year housesitting.

The Future?

How long will we continue this lifestyle? The truth is, we don’t know. Like everything in life, there are drawbacks and it’s not for everyone. But after 2,000 days we’ve gotten comfortable with it, and we still appreciate experiencing new places. We’ve had some incredible adventures and for the time being, we look forward to more of them. 

After 2000 days, both kids are more attentive to opportunities that exist in the world. Both have their own bucket lists and an equal vote in where we go next. Egypt and Greece were all about them. I wonder where they’ll take us next...

The last you heard from us, we were somewhere in Mexico, and that was about 24 months ago. Here's a list of the places we've been, and a taste of what you might read about if/when we write a blog post on that location. 

* Isla Mujeres - Snorkeling with Whale Sharks. They're not sharks, but the world's largest fish. 

* Playa del Carmen - Ahhhhh. Hot! Warm Caribbean Sea. Cenotes galore.

* Placencia, Belize - Tag spied a manatee swimming above the water and the rest of us saw it while snorkeling. Majestic.

* San Miguel de Allende, Mexico again - Hilly town with fresh fruit on every corner. Tag loved it.

* Yellowstone National Park, Mount Rushmore and a lot of other stuff in the area - We had to buy winter coats for the kids, and we've gotten a lot of use out of them. 

* A visit home, Kirkland, Washington, USA - Thanksgiving 2016 and a lot of rain. What else would you expect from the Pacific Northwest?

Europe!!! Goodbye car. Hello airplanes, trains and buses. For the time being, we are done with Central America and Mexico. It’s all about Europe and Africa.

* Iceland - Icebergs are so cool.

* England - Ela and Tag took care of a lot of dogs (yes, we did more housesitting), and walked more than they ever had in their lives. There was a dungeon that Ela wasn't too fond of too. 

* Netherlands - Some of the best art in the world. Ken and I love big cities, and Amsterdam didn't disappoint. 

* Malta - Likely the oldest place we've ever been. Historic and beautiful. 

* Cyprus - More driving on the left and awesome Greek food. 

* South Africa - The animals. We're officially done with zoos and aquariums. It's animals in the wild, in sanctuaries or not at all. We'll do our best. 

* Croatia - Home of the most beautiful national park ever. And there was a good quiche/pizza take-away around the corner from our temporary flat.

* Gran Canaria, Spain - Ken was invited to speak at a conference, and there was no way he was going without us. We ended up staying 2 months on this lovely island where Christopher Columbus stopped on his way to the New World.

* Romania - Cold. So cold, but we loved Romania. This was our first road trip in Europe and I yearn to go back.

* Germany - An unplanned 12 hours in Frankfurt and the best Christmas Market ever. This was followed by a huge refund check on our flights. Gotta love European laws.

* Greece - Athens for a week. Dare I say the Parthenon isn’t all that? I know I shouldn’t, but we all felt that way.

* Kenya - A solo week away for only me, a necessity for all moms, but especially for those that don’t send their kids to school 6 hours a day.

* Italy - Rome. A weekend away for Ken and I, and later followed by a very costly lay-over. Mistakes happen. Suck-it-up and move on.

* Georgia (the country) - The kids complained that we hadn’t taken a vacation in a looooong time. Another eye roll, but we indulged them with a week at a lovely resort. Then we spent 3 weeks discovering the country itself.

* Czech Republic - Prague. Oh, Prague! We love you! The kids liked The Candy Store with traditional goodies from Britain and the US (think peanut butter cups, jelly bellies, Red Vines, Apple jacks cereal). Ken and I loved the parks, the easy-to-use public transportation, and the 1000 things to do.

* Albania - Our first home base since Guatemala. We have a nice apartment, Ela is taking guitar, art, soccer, swimming, and Tag participates when he feels like it. Seriously. Also, it’s now the end of September and it’s still hot. 90s hot (low 30s for our metric friends). We’re more likely to blog since we spend daylight hours in the apartment hiding from the heat.

As you can see, we've haven't slowed down and we have no intention of doing so. We’ve been doing it as a family for over 4 years now. We hope you enjoy our travels, and that maybe they inspire you to do a bit of traveling too. Thanks for reading. 

Ken, Mickelle, Ela & Tag

At the time we did not know what had happened, but we knew whatever it was, it was bad. The whole building rocked back in forth. Instantly we all knew we needed to evacuate. I spent roughly 45 minutes in the stairwells of the North Tower. We came to complete stops at times while waiting for the injured to be carried down and firefighters to head up.

Reflecting back on that day 15 years later I'm filled with a mixture of emotions. I saw horrific things both inside and outside of the towers. About 20 minutes after I exited the towers, the South tower fell. I was standing 1.5 blocks away. I've never been more scared in life. Shortly after that I heard planes flying overhead wondering if another plane was about to drop out of the sky. Then a few minutes later everyone on the street breathed a sigh of relief, some even cheered. We found out the noise was coming from US fighter jets. They were flying overhead to keep the city safe.

I'm very fortunate. Not only did I make it out of the towers without a scratch but I never suffered any post-traumatic stress. I never even had a single nightmare.

Roughly 12.5 years later Mickelle and I made a decision to begin an incredible journey. The journey we document on this blog. We decided to leave the comfort of our home in the Seattle area. Leave a job I really enjoyed. Remove our daughter from a school she loved and hit the road to explore Mexico and Central America. 

We've been asked a number of times how September 11 impacted our lives and influenced our decision to travel. Surely it must have impacted us in some manner…how else could we explain the risks we're taking driving our family throughout this region?

It would be easy to say yes, the event of September 11 made us more tolerant and accepting of risk, but we'd be lying. While we've been through multiple earthquakes, the outer bands of a hurricane, a riot, hassled for bribes by police, and even had to rely on emergency medical care in an impoverished country but...believe it or not statistically we're just as safe (some might argue safer) than if we were living the lifestyle we did in the US. We're eating healthier, working less and living a more stress-free life (heart disease is the #1 killer in the US and these are some of the most controllable factor to reducing the risk).

So did September 11 have any impact on your desire to travel? It's hard to say. Mickelle and I have never been the complacent type. Perhaps that day reminded us of our own mortality. If that's the case we're making the most out of this life and can't imagine being happier. Plus, we're exposing our kids (and ourselves) to an education that does not come in textbooks. In addition to world-schooling our kids are receiving a first-hand education on the powers of diversity. Not a week goes by where they can’t be found playing with kids across different cultural, social, or economic backgrounds. It’s makes any perceived risk in our travels worth it instantly.

As I reflect on this sacred day I'm reminded how lucky I am to be born where I was. Being an American is a tremendous privilege and one that I don't take lightly. I see how fortunate we are in our travels. We also feel a tremendous gratitude to the American Military, firefighters and police officers who responded, and still continue to respond, with great bravery in the protection of our nation.

God Bless America!

I'll keep this post brief and attempt to keep it clean. There are a few important things to know when using bathrooms South of the US border. 

1) They are not always free - When you pull up to gas stations you never know if you'll need to pay to use the facilities. Even in Mexico, where there is only one official gas station brand (Pemex), there is no consistency of when there will be someone camped out in front collecting money for their cleaning service. TIP: Always keep some loose change handy. You never know when you might need those coins.

2) There is no guarantee of toilet paper - Whether you are in a gas station, restaurant, grocery store or shopping center you can not bank on them having toilet paper for your use. If they have toilet paper holders they are commonly empty or broken. Sometimes they are missing altogether. TIP: Travel with your own roll. 

3) Be ready to squat - Another item that is commonly missing from the loo is a toilet seat. It's just not there. This means girls almost always need to hover and boys will need to whenever they require a seat. TIPS: Brace against a nearby wall and start working on your leg strength. 

4) Toss, don't flush - Be forewarned...you likely can't flush toilet paper. There are a variety of reasons why this is ill advised but the bottom line is the plumbing can't support it. If you see a trash can next to the toilet, toss the paper it in the can, not the bowl. TIPS: Don't look in the trash and whatever you do NOT accidentally throw something away in the bathroom trash. If you are preparing for a trip, check out this website for tips about the country you'll be visiting. 

5) Washing your hands - There are a few things to know here. First, bathroom sinks are not usually in the bathroom. They are usually found outside the bathroom in a shared area for both sexes to use. Second, they don't always have soap to use. Lastly, they almost never have a useful way to dry your hands. TIPS: Carry sanitizer (you never know when you'll need it) and be sure to dry your hands off on something (the kids frequently use my clothes).   

6) Restrooms in restaurants, and other places, frequently have showers - No, they are not for your use. They are generally part of a remodel/reuse project. It's not uncommon for homes, apartments, etc. to be converted into restaurants, stores or even schools. When this happens it's generally not economical to yank the shower out. TIP: Don't use the shower. 

Happy travels and stay sanitary. 

Hacienda Sotuta de Peon is a restoration project focused on preserving the history of how a native plant was farmed for its fibers and made into rope. It all starts with this:

These plants are relatives of the Blue Agave plants that make tequila. They are Sisal Agave plants. Like their Blue Agave cousins they can be used to make alcohol but that was not part of this tour. 

The sisal is grown as any farmed crop is, in planned rows and bunches. When plants are mature the leaves are harvested and gathered for processing. 

Using a large and LOUD machine the sisal is first lifted up from the street onto a conveyor belt where it is arranged by hand for maximum efficiency.

The conveyor belt then pulls the sisal into a mechanism that cracks the leaves open, removes the outer shell and outputs the inner fibers.

These fibers are the basis for ropes but first they have to dry.

Once dried, the fibers are soft to the touch but tangled. Knots within the strands must be removed before you can proceed. They can be removed by hand with what is essentially a big sisal brush. 

Bunches of brushed fibers are then laid out end to end and lightly twisted together so that they become entwined, but not visibly knotted. The end result is a long strand of interconnected sisal fibers. Once you make two of those strands you are ready for the braiding machine. All you have to do is tie up two strands to this hand cranked machine, make a few passes and you've got a rope! 

It was a simple and ingenious process that was used for hundreds of years. Over time the machines evolved and the process became more industrialized. 

Eventually nylon and other synthetic materials were created and they changed the economics of the industry. Places like this hacienda could no longer compete and ultimately shut down. Hacienda Sotuta de Peon exists today as a living and working museum. They even transport visitors around they way workers were transported over a century ago (by horse).

The horse drawn tour ended with a stop at one of the plantation's four cenotes. A cenote is a naturally formed collection of filtered rainwater. The water is generally very clear and like the one we swam in that day, they are often underground and in caves. It was quite a site and refreshing. 

Are we glad we did this? Absolutely. Would we do it again? No, once is enough. We do recommend it for anyone in the area that's interested.

For those of you looking for the cliff notes on rope making, here's our entire tour condensed into 30 seconds. Enjoy!  

Answer
They all have smaller populations than Merida, Mexico.

Throughout our journey we've lived in a lot places. Often we've landed in towns or small cities with ~20K-40K people. When we stayed in larger cities like San Cristobal de las Casas (population ~200K) or Oaxaca (population ~250K) we've found "luxury" items like movie theaters and shopping malls. Even there we ran into limitations and occasionally found ourselves longing for things more commonly found in the States. This changed when we called Merida home for nearly 3 weeks.

Merida is located on the northwestern tip of the Yucatan peninsula, is home to over a million people, and a lot more resources than we'd become accustomed to. For the most part, this was a welcome change.

In addition to being a big city, it is also a hot city. A very hot city! It's located about 30 minutes from the coast which means it's just far enough away to not get a coastal breeze. It's not uncommon for homes and apartments to have small swimming pools (generally called dipping pools) to temporarily provide relief from the high temperatures. 

While in Merida we rented a house that did not have a pool, but the property manager did. He only lived two blocks away and we used it a few times during our stay. It was a cold pool that did not get much direct sunlight. Tag and Mick didn't like it too much. 

Here are some of the ways we made the most out of being in a big city.

Costco

While there are several Costcos in Mexico we had not seen or been to one since leaving the States. Walking through Costco was the first time Mickelle had strong feelings of nostalgia for home. After all, Costco's main brand, "Kirkland" is named for our hometown and was the original headquarters of Costco. It almost felt like we were back in the Pacific Northwest again. 

A first since leaving the States

Dental Cleaning (and Teeth Extraction)

It had been 6 months since the "Worst Dentist Appointment Ever!" had occurred for Mick and the kids in Nicaragua. More importantly it had been 12+ months since I had had my pearly whites cleaned so we were due. How do you find a dentist in a new town? Ask someone you know of course. This meant asking our property manager (he was the only person we knew). He recommended a person that in his words was "well educated, clean and fair priced". He had had a root canal performed there. So I scheduled appointments.

The end results:

• Ken - no cavities, decent cleaning
• Mick - no cavities, decent cleaning
• Tag - no cavities, decent cleaning
• Ela - no cavities, three baby teeth pulled, several gut wrenching screams, and an abbreviated cleaning

* No cavities means they poked our teeth, but didn't do x-rays.

Going into the appointment, we knew that Ela needed at least one and, maybe, two teeth pulled. The adult teeth had already come in but the baby teeth had not come out yet. We nicknamed them "shark teeth" because they were aligned right behind one another much like sharks. 

After a brief examination the dentist told me, in Spanish, that Ela needed to have three teeth pulled. Of course Ela was listening but I did not think she understood the dentist. She did, and she shot straight out of the chair. Panic quickly ensued and I had to calm her down. She was adamant that the dentist not give her any shots. The idea of a needle being pushed into her gums terrified her. Side note: This was exactly the same panic that ensued every time she received an immunization shot or needed to have blood taken.

The dentist, who seemed knowledgeable and spoke okay English was growing impatient. She attempted to bring a needle into the room and Ela freaked! Freaked!  The dentist offered up her only other alternative...topical numbing cream. Yes, the stuff that tastes nasty and puts your tongue to sleep on contact.

She quickly applied several coats, let it sit a minute, and then went to work pulling Ela's teeth. One of the teeth took more work than the others and as you might imagine, caused Ela more pain. She shrieked with pain (it was really more fear than pain). At one point she was so loud the receptionist came in to see if the dentist needed help. It was 10 minutes of my life that I would have gladly traded with Mickelle. Mick was in another area of the building getting her teeth cleaned and somehow she did not hear Ela scream (but the hygienist cleaning her did).  

All in all it was a success. We all left with healthy mouths and the damage to the wallet was not that bad either. $165 US. In case you're wondering, Ela hasn't had any nightmares as a result of the experience. Mick has shamed me over and over for not demanding that Ela take the shot. She's also made it clear to Ela that we won't pay for therapy, either now or later in life, that is a result of her bad decision not to take the shot. Tag, angel child that he is, has offered to take all of Ela's shots for the rest of his life. If only this were possible. 

Xtreme Jumping

While browse through one of the shopping malls in Merida, we came across Xtreme Jumping, a trampoline park. It was their opening weekend and they were running specials. 2 hours for the price of 1. We were impressed with the place. They had even better jumping options than those we've experienced in the states. I can't help but think this is a result of less stringent liability laws.

The kids had a blast battling other kids in a joust, shooting hoops, playing dodge ball and just jumping. There was one thing however that Tag never got the hang of. A play area called Wipe Out. Watch the short video below and you'll see why. 

Art Classes

One morning while having breakfast at a nearby restaurant we saw a sign for art classes. The sign was even written in English. Ela quickly got excited and demanded that we sign her up. She ended up going twice, and because the regular classes were full she received 1-on-1 instruction both times. She loved it, and we love the end results.

While we liked many of the familiar big city comforts, it was time to move on. It was too hot and humid for our tastes and the beach was calling.

The first stop of our 3 month Yucatan Peninsula tour was Campeche, a small colonial town on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. In the 16th century the Spaniards ruled Campeche. They conquered the indigenous Mayans but were plagued by frequent attacks from pirates. In an attempt to protect the town (and themselves), the Spaniards built a wall around it. Once complete, the Spaniards lived inside the confines of the wall and left the native Mayans on the outside in the barrios (neighborhoods) surrounding the wall. 

Significant portions of the wall still exist, and other parts of it are being rebuilt. We began our historic tour of Campeche with a walk to the Centro Historico de San Francisco (basically this is the zocalo or city center inside the old wall). The Centro has a center square with a park like atmosphere, several local businesses, museums and the Cathedral de Campeche surrounding it. 

Along the Centro was Casa No. 6, a museum staged as an example of a typical colonial home where a wealthy family may have lived. Colonists from Spain were used to decorating with wallpaper. Due to the humid climate in Campeche, this wasn't possible. Instead, they often painted the walls to look like wallpaper. You can see this in the bedroom picture. 

Next, we went to a free museum sponsored by the government, called El Palacio Centro Cultural. The whole visit was a bit odd. There were several employed people throughout the museum that would walk us from one room to the next, opening doors and pointing the way, but they rarely spoke to us. They weren't really guards or docents. They just moved us along.

We then entered the second room in the museum. To get there we had to go outside the building, down the corridor and back inside the building. We, and 8 other people, were immediately escorted into a room with a gated type door. The inside of the room was built to look like the hold of a ship. The door shut, the lights went off (while we didn't think anything bad was happening, it was odd not knowing), and the floor started to shift. A movie started on the side walls telling about the journey from Spain to Campeche. The room was like a Disney ride. Loud storms, thunder and lightning, calm seas, pirates, and of course a joyous landing in Campeche where the doors opened and we were let out of the hold. 

Overall, the museum had excellent visuals for the kids, and it was worth our time. 

We spent the rest of the day walking the perimeter of the old city, visiting small museums and walking on top of the wall. It was interesting to learn that although the town had been frequently attacked by pirates, it didn't have a lot of wealth. Correspondence between those living in Campeche and those back in Spain discuss the level of poverty and struggles that existed in Campeche. Living in the west at that time didn't make for an easy life. 

At 8 PM every night, there's an impressive sound and light show in the Centro. Four mounted projectors shot moving images and animations onto a building located on the west side of the square. The show depicted many stories and characters of historical significance to the town. It lasted an hour, was free, and very much worth watching.

Prior to arriving in Campeche, we'd read about the town's malecon (boardwalk) along the Gulf of Mexico. Ela was especially looking forward to renting bikes and riding several miles along it. Sadly, she became furious when it never happened.

Before renting bikes we decided to scope out the malecon on foot. The smell was rancid. It was so bad that neither Ken nor I could fathom going back. This brought Ela to tears, but alas our senses were saved from repeating that foul experience. Too bad because the path had several scenic spots. 

We spent several days in Campeche. It was a nice stop, but it's not known for swimming in its beautiful waters. It's coast is mostly rocky. It was time to grab a Starbucks coffee and hit the road again.

We had three months left on our visas so we decided to use that time exploring the Yucatan Peninsula. The first stop was Palenque, a small town best known for the local ruins and the national park that draw tourists. But, first we had to get there. 

This was tricky. Four days before leaving San Cristobal, we spoke with other travelers that attempted the 4-hour route from San Cristobal to Palenque that day. After driving for 2+ hours, they encountered stopped traffic that rarely moved forward. They ended up returning to San Cristobal that evening. A whole day of travel wasted. 

MORE BACKGROUND: A couple of years ago, bandits were known for carjacking and bus-jacking vehicles on this road. There was one bad incident that no one likes to discuss where several people died. More recently, locals have been using the road to stop and ask for "donations" for their towns and harass the cars if they are denied. It's also not uncommon for there to be political protests which close the road until the government gives attention to the request of those who feel disenfranchised. We were told by several people that unless we wanted to leave around 4 am, we should expect delays, and maybe even a return trip to San Cristobal. 

While this kind of danger is not what we've come to expect in Mexico, or even most of Central America, we still do our research and talk with locals before any long drives. It was recommended that we drive to Palenque the long way around, doubling the length (in distance but likely not in duration) of that day's drive. It was an easy decision. Bonus - The long route took us past two Starbucks. 

The long way was uneventful and almost entirely on toll roads (which are really nice highways in Mexico). We arrived in Palenque just before dark, and Ken wasn't feeling well. We checked into our hotel with a pool that was out-of-service. We unpacked the car, made the short walk to the center of town and ate a nice dinner. We got to bed early as we knew there was a lot to see and we planned to stay two full days. 

Day 1: The Ruins of Palenque

The Ruins of Palenque offered much of what we've seen at other ruins in southern Mexico and northern Central America. However, the scale of Palenque was quite impressive. Only 90% of the ruins are uncovered. As one looks around at all the hills, it's likely there's a Mayan structure underneath each one.

It was also hot, and the kids were complaining. Then, Tag's little toe was bit by an ant. After an hour under the scorching sun and an itchy foot, he was in full melt-down.  It was time to leave. 

Day 2, morning: The Eco-Park

Aluxes Ecoparque was the highlight of Palenque. This is an animal sanctuary, and they return animals to the wild whenever possible. Aluxes is a not-for-profit, NGO that raises money by sharing the animals with the public. There were only a few others in the park, so we felt that we had the animals to ourselves. We started off by feeding the manatees, an experience that none of us will ever forget. 

Aluxes Ecoparque in Palenque, Mexico

Aluxes Ecoparque in Palenque, Mexico

Aluxes Ecoparque in Palenque, Mexico

Aluxes Ecoparque in Palenque, Mexico

After the manatees, we moved on to the big tortoise. 

All of the animals were in nice, spacious habitats, appeared clean and well-cared for and had great energy. If we ever drive through Palenque again, we'll definitely be stopping at Aluxes. Even with their stinky breath, I'd love to feed the manatees again. 

Day 2, afternoon: The Five Part Waterfall

After feeding manatees and feeding ourselves, we ventured out in search of one of the amazing waterfalls in the area. After reading several Trip Advisor reviews, we chose Cascada de Robert Barrios because it wasn't likely to be overrun with tourists and it wasn't too far away. I don't think we could have made a bad choice though. 

Palenque was fantastic, and it was worth a short stop. But, we were already looking forward to the next stop, a colonial town that once walled itself in to protect from pirates!

1. Hierve el Agua (The Water Boils) 

Located 90 minutes outside of Oaxaca City, near the town of Mitla, Hierve el Aqua is well worth the drive. This set of naturally flowing springs bubbling up through limestone is a big draw for tourists and locals. Even though the name implies (okay downright states) the water is boiling, the water is actually freezing. It is so cold that both Mickelle and Tag refused to get more than their toes wet. Ela and I swam in the waters with the locals and several Europeans. The coldness was refreshing. But one can only swim in cold water for so long. 

Still to come was an even more impressive site. The mineral thick water drips off the edge of the cliff and down a few hundred feet. Over eons, this trickle has turned into a prodigious rock formation that reminded us of cave stalactites, but without the cave. These limestone waterfalls are a stunning vision.

Here are a few tips for those visiting Hierve el Agua:

• Be sure you go on the hike down to the bottom of the waterfall. It's a self guided hike. You'll be awestruck.
• Bring drinking water and good walking shoes for the hike. It's a steep path for both kids and adults.
• Try the molettes (think open faced Mexican sandwiches) at the top near the entrance. Cheap and good.

2. Arbol del Tule (Tule Tree)

About 10 minutes outside of Oaxaca City, in the town center of Santa Maria del Tule, is a grand tree. The Arbol del Tule is a Montezuma cypress (Taxodium mucronatum). It's claim to fame is that it reportedly has the the stoutest trunk on the planet. It was last measured in 2005 at a circumference of 42.0 m (137.8 ft). To put this in perspective, if the tree were cut down, laid on its side and unrolled, the outer ring of the trunk would be the equivalent length of a 13-story tall building. 

The trunk is so large that scientist thought several trees had grown together into one big tree, but DNA evidence has proven that it truly is only one tree.

There's not a lot to do in Santa Maria del Tule other than marvel at this giant tree. And marvel we did, for about 30 minutes. It may seem like it's "just a tree", but to stand it its shadow and fathom it's size is inspiring.

With much of the day left, Mickelle and the kids spent several hours at a big, public park that they passed on their way out of town. Having noted its location, they returned to the park after visiting the tree. We haven't seen many nice parks outside of the US, and it's one of the things we miss most. We returned to this park other days as well. 

3. Monte Alban

Monte Alban is a pre-Colombian archaeological site (i.e. another set of awesome ruins) located about 20 minutes outside of Oaxaca City in the municipality of Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán. Founded around 500 BC, Monte Alban is perched on a low mountainous range overlooking what is now Oaxaca City. There are some pretty spectacular views of the city from the top. 

We hiked among the ruins for almost two hours until the kids, who have been to "too many ruins", blew a gasket. While they thought the first ten minutes were neat, the rest of it felt like more of the same - old buildings under a hot, hot sun. For the rest of the family, the various archaeological sites are all starting to feel similar, even though they are all very different. 

That said, they were stunning, and there are very few areas where you can't explore throughout this site. Visiting Monte Alban is a must if you are in the area.

Look close

4. Movies

Oaxaca City has two movie theaters and both are nice. Most of the movies were originally produced/recorded in English and have been dubbed in Spanish, but both theaters had a few playing in English with Spanish subtitles. As long as you can ignore the Spanish text on the screen, it's just like seeing a movie in the US. And much cheaper.

The rest of the theater was pretty much what you'd expect except for the the fire gear. In case of fire...please suit up and do your part. 

While there is a lot more to do in Oaxaca, these were the family highlights. Ela and Mickelle would add Starbucks as another highlight since there was a store 1.3 miles away from our apartment. They woke up several mornings and enjoyed a brisk walk to get their favorite morning drinks. On this visit, we got to know this city well, and it is no longer a blur.  Three weeks was the perfect amount of time for us.

While staying in San Cristobal de las Casas we knew there would be two times we'd need to leave the apartment because as it was already booked - The week the Pope was visiting and a three-week span encompassing Christmas and New Years. After a bit of debate, we decided to make the most of the three weeks and leave San Cristobal. We drew a circle identifying locations within a 10 hour drive.

After some research, we decided to spend our three weeks in Oaxaca. We had no idea what a marvelous decision this would be.

Oaxaca is popularly known for three things: 

1. Chocolate - Specifically hot chocolate. There are a number of shops throughout town that sell this locally sourced, hand-mixed, cup of heaven. As a family we all indulged in the Oaxacan hot chocolate. It was delicious. In fact Mick's Christmas present was a hot chocolate stirring wisk.
2. Mole - (Pronounced MOLE-lay) No this is not that dreadful creature that digs up your yard. It is a delightful, flavorful, and colorful sauce. In the United States, mole is a dark brown or black sauce with hints of chocolate and some spice. To be honest I've never cared for it. However, the mole in Oaxaca breaks the paradigm. Oaxaca claims to be the place mole was invented. Their moles were incredible. There were multiple shades of green, red, yellow, brown and black. They tasted nothing like the moles of my past. In short, they were awesome.
3. Mezcal - Mezcal is an alcohol made from the agave plant. While it is similar to tequila in taste, I found it to be smoother. Mezcal has been distilled in Oaxaca for at least 200 years, and the agave plants are growing throughout the region. 

While I had my fill of hot chocolate, mole and mezcal, there was a lot more of Oaxaca to experience. 

The town itself is charming and walkable. You don't need a car if you stay in town. Oaxaca's elevation is just under a mile (~5,100 feet) which keeps the climate moderate. It can be just a touch too warm in the afternoon and a little chilly in the evenings, which is just about perfect.

Using Craigslist, we rented an apartment, just off the zocalo (i.e. primary town square). It was the perfect location for us. Due to the holidays, there were special activities taking place daily.

It was crazy to see what people built with vegetables and potatoes.

It was crazy to see what people built with vegetables and potatoes.

With Christmas season on full display everywhere we looked, there was no escaping it. Ela demanded decorating our apartment. We tried to give her the normal excuses about how we don't have room to carry around Christmas decorations and how we'd prefer to spend the money on experiences, etc. Despite our best efforts, she was adamant. Mickelle and I relented. She would be given a budget and she had to manage it. Her budget of 100 pesos (about $5.50 US) made for a ridiculously happy child. She quickly drug me out of the apartment to go shopping.

We hit the main drag and her search began. She wanted a tree and ornaments, and yes she found them. She even haggled with a vendor (in Spanish) to get a few extra ornament. I was proud of her.

Okay, so we had an ugly tree, but Ela (and later Tag) thought it was awesome.

When Ela and I returned, Mick went solo to do our Christmas shopping. She hid the presents, and a few day later, Christmas arrived. Because everything has to fit in the car, most of what she bought was disposable (and semi-authentic). That's right, she bought a pinata and fireworks (along with a few small lego sets, a stuffed dog, a few "real" books and several dolls).

The pinata was a lot stronger than we expected. I twisted off a broom handle and we all took whacks at it. To our surprise and disappointment the stick buckled before the pinata. Eventually we had to use our hands and pull it apart, but that was fun too.

The true highlight of our stay in Oaxaca were the evenings, especially Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. The entire zocalo turned into one big, local, family friendly party. Street vendors were selling sparklers, big blow up tubes to throw in the air or whack others with, cans of shaving cream like material, egg shells that had been emptied and filled with confetti, and of course more fireworks. These make-shift parties lasted until 1 AM or longer and we participated on several nights.

Did we enjoy our time in Oaxaca? You bet! The pictures hardly do it justice. It was another memorable time and experience. Here's another view of the fun.

In our next post, we'll highlight some of the family friendly things in the surrounding area just outside of town. 

Tourists are allowed inside Chamula's church for a small fee. Visitors are not allowed to wear hats or to take any pictures. If anyone is caught taking pictures, they will be immediately removed from the premises and released after they have shown that all evidence of photography are destroyed (pictures deleted or film exposed). Or they will be taken to jail. Needless to say, we did not take any pictures (and we took off our hats). 

The inside of the church was unlike any we've experienced. There were no pews. The floor was tiled and covered with green pine needles. The sides and front of the church were lined with tributes to saints and alters for various religious figures. Throughout the church, Tzotzil families were setting up rows of candles, probably 100-250+ of them. They started by heating the bottoms of the candles so that the wax would stick to the floor like glue. Then they'd plant them on the floor, light them like you'd normally light a candle and begin to pray and chant. The sets of candles looked like mini-bonfires and they were all over the place. 

I witnessed an older couple diligently praying as though the the spirit of a lost loved one depended on the strength of their beliefs. In contrast to this, I also saw an older woman chanting incantations and waving an uncracked egg over her daughter and grand baby. In front of her was a bottle of Coca Cola. The Tzotzil believe that the burping of Coca Cola releases evil spirits from the body. Occasionally she even spit Coca Cola at the candles. Other members of her family sat nearby and all of them were smiling. She gave us eye contact several times and appeared joyous to share her moment with us. I could have watched her for hours. As we left, a family of four gathered around their lit candles, sacrificed a chicken (in the church) and shared a bottle of Pox, a cane-alcohol beverage with 38% alcohol. 

The entire time we were in the church, I was on high alert. Not only was it mesmerizing to witness this unique spirituality, but I kept waiting for some green pine needles to catch on fire. How far were we from the exit and how many people were between us and it? Alas this didn't happen, and I haven't found evidence of fires in the church (except for the candles which were allowed to burn until the flames drowned in liquid wax all over the floor). Even with this fear, I highly recommend a visit. It's one I'll always cherish. 

If you're interested in learning more about the unique religious characteristics of Chamula, read here and here. 

Museo de Bichos E Insectos  - The Bug and Insect Museum - The kids loved this place. Why wouldn't they? There were lots of butterflies, scorpions, wasps, spiders and other dead creatures for them to inspect. However, the highlight was Tag holding the tarantula. Ela and I stayed at least two feet away from it.

Museo del Ambar - Amber Museum - This place was a huge surprise. We learned about real and fake amber, how it's made underground and why it's often found with dead insects and bugs inside it. There were several examples of different colored amber and beautiful jewelry made with it. The mountains around San Cristobal are one of the only places red amber can be found. 

Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya - Center of Mayan Textiles - Here, I was surprised at how much the kids enjoyed looking at several examples of Mayan textiles or traje. By this point in our travels, we were used to seeing indigenous Mayans wearing their traje, and had even worn it ourselves on Orgullo Chapin Day in Panajachel, Guatemala. After arriving in San Cristobal, we couldn't help but notice a new traje material - a black, fuzzy material that was not the most attractive (obviously, my opinion). It looked like these women were wearing thick, matted sheep skins around their waists. This exhibit included several accessories including bags, hair pieces, shawls and shoes. There were other pieces of culture and art in this museum (pottery, religious artifacts, paintings to name a few), but we spent most of our time opening drawer after drawer of traje. 

Orquideas Moxviquil - I don't know the English translation for this place, or if there even is an English translation, but this was a gem of a place just outside of town. Basically, it's a botanical garden where we were told (by the owner) that we needed to touch anything we wanted to! This is perfect for kids. No plant, leaf, rock, tree, flower or stick was off limits. Along with all the native plants, there were sitting areas, swings, small hills for races, a river and a unique composting toilet system. 

Grutas de Rancho Nuevo - Best surprise park! There was a lot to do in a small area, and we made the most of it. We started with the big slide. 

Next we went on the cave walk. The kids had never been in a cave where they could walk far into it. They were a bit creeped out, especially Tag. When we got to the end of the paved path, we had the option to pay extra to go even farther. The extra included flashlights and hard hats. Ken and I were all for it, but the kids were not. After bribing them with 1 hour of digital and an extra movie night (I really wanted to go the rest of the way), they agreed. Ela loved it, but Tag was nervous and skeptical the whole time. The following day, the kids researched caves using YouTube videos. They are now a bit fascinated with them and are looking forward to exploring more caves. 

We also had a terrific lunch and Tag got a souvenir. 

El Arcoteto - This was another park just outside of town. Our favorite feature was an archway where we could walk high into it. Okay, so the kids didn't like this as much as Ken and I did! They were a bit freaked out by the height and steepness of the walk. They especially didn't like it when they looked down to where we started.  

Mayan Medicine Museum - The first thing we did when we entered the museum was watch a 10 minute video in English, and I often wish I could watch it again and again. The video showcased how indigenous Mayans use herbs and food as medicines. While the video wasn't meant to be funny, we found it quite humorous. First, we already know how ridiculous it is that many women give birth lying down (I did exactly this...twice). The Mayans use the concept of gravity to help a woman give birth. Obviously, they're not using epidurals which would have put a damper on my experience. However, their birth is also accompanied with some "unique" rituals and beliefs: 

• A machete is waved over a woman's uterus 3 times to give her a quick birth.
• Coca Cola and live chickens are used to give the baby a good soul. Mothers drink the soda in hopes of burping which is believed to help evil spirits leave the body. We also saw this at a church in the nearby village of Chamula. 
• If the baby is a boy, the mother is not allowed to eat avocado for 3 months or the baby's penis will swell.

While some of these rituals and beliefs seem silly to us, we recognize the way I gave birth would seem absurd to them.

The museum also had exhibits showcasing daily life. There were religious exhibits and of course many displays of medicine in use. There's a fantastic display that shows the position of the man, the woman and the midwife when a woman is giving birth. The woman is facing the man and the baby pops out behind the woman and right into the midwife's hands. Here's a pic from the museum. 

Meeting a Danish Family - Staying at the same apartment/hotel complex as us was a wonderful American/Danish family. Cassie is from the US and her husband Tor is from Denmark. They have two, young boys, and we spent a lot of time together. Their oldest son, Silas, and Tag collected bones around the gardens. They had bowls and bowls of small animal bones. (Tag thinks the bones are in the cartop carrier. Hopefully he will forget about them soon, because, of course, they are not up there. I returned them to the gardens of our lovely home.) It was fun learning about life in Denmark and comparing travel notes. 

While San Cristobal wasn't as warm as we would have liked, it is a wonderful town and we have fond memories of our time there. 

His visit was highly anticipated and almost all of the hotels in town were sold out months in advance. This impacted us. We had to leave our unit in Kukurutz and relocate for a week. They were booked solid. Fortunately, we had made arrangements and had a backup plan for a place to stay nearby.

So what is it like when (arguably) one of the most powerful people on the plant visits a developing country? We were about to find out.

For starters, there were protesters. They weren't necessarily protesting the Pope. They were using the platform to object to human rights, the constitution and other things. This led to an increased police presence. Police were all over the town square and perched on top of roofs for several days leading up to the Pope's visit.

There was Pope merchandise plastered throughout the town. Shirts, plaques, postcards, cups, DVDs, rosaries, etc. - all being sold in the name of capitalism...I mean Catholicism.

We are not Catholic but we have a great respect for the influence, power, culture and historical significance of the Pope. We considered this a unique home schooling opportunity and knew we wanted our kids to see him. We had two options.

1. We could see him deliver Mass. For weeks workers had been constructing a stage in the large public park in town. 

In order to attend the Mass we'd need to have tickets and we'd need to get to the park early in order to get through security. We'd also need to prep our kids for what promised to be a long ceremony in several different languages. Mass was going to be performed in Spanish and some parts in a native Mayan dialect.

2. We could see him in the Popemobile as he drove along a planned route.

Since our kids don't do well with long waits to hear people speak in languages they don't understand, and Tag doesn't like to sit still (EVER), the choice was simple. We'd go with option #2, the Popemobile. 

It turned out this was the right choice for us. Mass lasted almost two hours. Plus we would have had to have arrived at least 90 minutes ahead of time. Our kids would have been miserable, and to be honest, it would have been tough for Mick and I. 

We arrived on the route about the time Mass was starting, and setup our camp along the railing. We had to wait roughly two hours before the Pope arrived, but thankfully our kids could talk freely, sit, stand, and walk. In other words, it was just bearable for them. At one point, we bribed them by buying lollipops from a street vendor.

The streets were getting more and more packed. Then finally...this happened...

Five minutes later, the crowds broke up, and it felt like a normal day. We found out later that the huge number of projected visitors did not materialize. The street were crowded but not to the original expectations. A number of hotel reservations throughout town were cancelled and rumor has it indigenous Mayans were paid money to attend the mass.

Even though the numbers were down I'd wager the Pope's visit was a success for both the town of San Cristobal and faithful Catholics. There were a lot of visitors in town, and there was a lot of excitement for his visit. Not to mention, there were no security problems. We can all say we've seen the Pope, and Mick can say she has seen two popes. (She attended mass at the Vatican two decades ago). It's another experience we'll never forget. 

We'd heard about San Cristobal for nearly two years. It's cost of living, cleanliness and safety make it a popular destination for expats. Because of its close proximity to Guatemala, expats use it for border runs to renew their visas. 

San Cristobal is a decent sized city for us. With more than 180,000 people, the city has a lot of things we had gotten used to living without. There are several well-stocked grocery stores, a movie theater, incredible dining options, and even decaf coffee for Mick. Score!

When we first arrived in town we began our usual process for finding a place to live. Initially, we stayed in a reasonably priced hotel while we scavenged the city looking for furnished apartments to rent by the month.

This is always a frantic time for us as we're anxious to get settled (we don't like to live out of suitcases in hotel rooms) and it's much cheaper to rent by the month than by the day. We began with a self guided walking tour and later driving tour of the new town, trying to figure out where we want to live, what's available and how much we should pay.

Yes, we could book through Airbnb before arriving but we don't like to go this route unless we already know the city. We want to make sure we like the surrounding neighborhoods and walking options. Plus there are generally cheaper options for long term rentals. 

As we've done in the past we hit coffee shops, diners, community centers, etc. seeking out "for rent" signs.

When I call the phone numbers on these signs, I generally end up speaking with someone in Spanish. They use landmarks within the city to describe the location of their unit,. This can be frustrating because I have no idea what or where the landmarks are. In the end, most of the people are patient and will meet us and take us to their place.

After several days of striking out and not finding a place, our luck changed. I was eating lunch in a local restaurant and started talking to another American that told me about a nearby apartment/hotel complex. Mick and the kids checked it that afternoon and we moved in the next day. It was called Kukurutz and it was fantastic. The long term rates are competitive, includes daily house keeping, and the grounds are meticulously maintained. There was a big grassy area where we often played with other guests. 

Exploring San Cristobal

San Cristobal has a very colonial feel to it. It is a very walkable city with many beautiful churches.

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico

Even though it is walkable you better have good leg strength because it is hilly.

It's also a city "at altitude" meaning the air is thin. San Cristobal is 2,120 meters above sea level (about 7,000 feet). This means you get winded quickly and it gets cold. These weren't the tropical temperatures one imagines in Southern Mexico. We were wearing stocking caps and making fires almost every night.

The mercado quickly became one of our favorite places. Unlike many of the other markets where  we've shopped, there is less haggling, and we did not feel like we were given gringo prices. Most of the fruit and veggies were sold by the lot. They were nicely displayed in buckets or bins. You paid by the bunch, not the individual item. 

San Cristobal is a place where protests and religious ceremonies commonly occur. Shortly after arriving, there was a big constitutional protest. The streets were packed with locals.

Despite the regular occurrence of sights like these, we never witnessed any violence or serious tension between locals and the police. 

Dia de la Virgin de Guadalupe also occurred during our stay. This is a national holiday for many Mexicans. Each year special celebrations, masses and festivities occur. About every five minutes, a different church group, dressed in rags and bare feet, ran through the streets, up the hill and into Iglesia de Guadalupe while pick-up trucks supporting them played loud music. We joined the chaos, ate crappy street food and rode on the carnival rides.

There's a lot of town to explore on foot and adventures to be had everyday in San Cristobal.

Yes, there's a lot to see and do in this town. San Cristobal is a family friendly city. In our next posts, we'll highlight some of the local museums and places to visit outside of town. 

We had been looking forward to visiting Copan. We have friends there, and we had heard incredible things about the ruins. 

You can get to the ruins from the center of town via a 5 minute tuk-tuk ride or a 15 minute walk. We took a tuk-tuk there and walked back after our visit. 

When we arrived we were approached by a local guide and decided to hire him for our visit. His name was Raul and he was of Mayan decent. 

Here's a few facts about this amazing site:

1. The exact dates of occupancy are not known but most agree this site was founded somewhere around 200 BC but really began to flourish around 400 AD before becoming abandoned around 900 AD. The exact reason for the site becoming abandoned is not known (the most popular theories speculate a very big drought). What is known with certainty is that this site housed Mayan citizens and rulers for well over 1,000 years.
2. At its peak, over 20,000 people lived in what is now the Copán Ruinas and the surrounding valley. It was one of the most densely populated cities in the Maya world.
3. The site is abound with structures that were used in everyday life by the ancient Maya. There's a large acropolis, several plazas, a ball court that was used for an ancient sport, sacrificial and ceremonial altars, tunnels throughout several structures, and a vast amount of ancient residential houses. Some of the ruins have been impressively reclaimed from nature and many have not. We enjoyed, and were encouraged, to walk around and explore much of them.
4. Just off of the main plaza is a temple that has a wide staircase with 63 stairs bearing more than 2,000 hieroglyphs. Together they comprise the longest known inscription of the ancient Maya world. Archaeologists are still trying to decipher some of these historic texts. 

Here are some of our favorite photos we took while visiting the ruins.

Many of the structures were impressively large.

The tour ended right by the feeding area for 20+ wild and thriving scarlet macaws that swooped down from their trees for feeding. Over a decade ago the government of Honduras donated two macaws to the ruins in hopes that, with proper care and oversight, they might once again thrive in the region as they did when the ruins were occupied in the ancient world. It's working! Each year the birds breed in specially constructed and managed areas, and each year hatchlings add to the growing population of macaws. 

The beautiful birds are free to fly away but don't. Would you? They have safety in numbers, and are well fed in this amazing place.

We spent about 2.5 hours in the park and even the kids enjoyed it (primarily because of the macaws). 

If you have the time, I'd tell you to spend  2 weeks on Roatan so that you and your child (age 10+) could learn to scuba dive slowly. This can be done in a week, but I'd recommend spacing out the days for a younger kid. This way you'd have time to explore the island and hang-out on days you aren't in class or diving. 

Our Path To Scuba Diving Certification: 

1. Try out snorkeling - The dive shop recommended we take Ela snorkeling. If she liked snorkeling, she would be more likely to enjoy scuba diving. If she didn't like snorkeling, then she wasn't ready to go further. Ela loved snorkeling so much that she used her own money to buy her own mask and snorkel. Her snorkel gear is as important as her bathing suit whenever we're in the water!

2. Discover Scuba Diving Adventure - Our next step was a one day adventure with a scuba diving instructor where we learned very basic information about scuba diving and then went for two trial dives. The first dive was in shallow 8 feet water in Half Moon Bay (many non-tropical places do this in a pool) where we practiced breathing and learning how to communicate underwater. Once we passed a few tests, we went for our first "big" dive 28 feet under the water.

Ela had a hard time going much further than 10 feet. After the second time returning to the top of the water, I had to pull a tough mom move. "You're a strong, capable swimmer. If you're ready for this then you need to suck up your fear and go. If you're not ready, that's ok. You're only 10 and you can try again later...blah, blah, blah." Ela sucked it up and LOVED it. After the dive, she was stoked and very proud of herself. 

I remember being on the floor of the ocean and looking at my 10-year old next to me and thinking, "OMG. Am I Crazy? I am 28 feet under water with my child. What am I doing?" However, I reminded myself that we could see the boat and if something happened, it was a mere 20 seconds or so to the top. 

3. PADI Scuba Diver - Ela and I continued our scuba diving education with the most basic certification. The youngest one can do this is age 10, and only if the instructor decides that the child is mature enough to handle the curriculum and skills. Suzanne, our dive instructor, quickly determined that Ela was ready. Ela and I spent several evenings pre-reading the Scuba Diving Manual and several mornings in the classroom watching videos and completing multiple choice tests.

Suzanne would take us into the water in the afternoon for skill work. This was followed by two open water dives to practice the same skills. Ela would tell you that the hardest or scariest skill was having to take off her mask underwater and put it back on. This was preceded by another tough mom talk. With this diving certification, Ela is allowed to scuba dive with a parent and a PADI Professional down to 40 feet. 

4. Open Water Diver Certification - I continued my scuba diving education with the next level of certification. This required two more open water dives, two classes in shallow water, and more classroom time. Suzanne was amazing. We covered all the essential skills in the first of my open water dives, and we went 60 feet under. This meant that my final dive could be with the family. Ken and Ela joined us and we went to 40 feet below, a personal record for Ela. 

While I've spent many years making fun of Ken for getting credit for essentially "Under Water Basket Weaving" as I referred to his scuba diving course, I now see the error of my ways. Scuba Diving is definitely worth college credit. Please don't tell him I said this.

The Town: West End

We stayed in the town of West End, as opposed to the similarly named town of West Bay. West Bay is known for it's big hotels, amazing beach and big tourist operations. West End, on the other hand, has plenty of smaller hotels, several dive shops, and a nice beach. We rented a house, with a full kitchen, 100 feet from the main drag, with access to a pool. A fresh fruit and vegetable truck drove by daily. There was also fresh fish available daily by a guy that caught it that morning (at least that's what he said). There were several places to swim, but we often chose to play around the dock at Rudy's Shack after eating pancakes or drinking chocolate banana milkshakes. Tag enjoyed petting several of the dogs that came to the shack with Rudy's owner. 

Scuba Diving

Ela and I earned our Scuba Diving Certification, and Ken got his renewed with a refresher dive...more about this in our next post.

Gumbalimba Park

The kids and I spent a day at Gumbalimba Park. Sadly, Ken was working. Luckily, it was a non-cruise ship day, and we, literally, had the park to ourselves. Our entrance fee even included a guided tour. We explored the Insectarium and cheesy pirate cave. 

Next we watched the activity in the Iguana Nest. 

Then, the fun really began. It started with us getting to know the macaws a little better. 

ollowed by at least 30 minutes of playing with the White Faced Monkeys. Because we had the whole park to ourselves, we got to spend a lot of time here. I've been told that people will spend hours in line during busy days. 

Finally, we headed to the pool and spent the rest of the day at there. You're not supposed to bring your own food into the park, but that never stops me. My kids prefer PB&J to concession stand food (Thank goodness). 

Part of our admission included transportation to and from the park. Gumbalimba Park provides transportation to and from the park for all of its employees. Since we stayed until closing, we ended up in a van along with several park employees.

Swimming with the Dolphins at Anthony's Key

Normally, we don't like to participate in activities where wild animals are kept in unnatural habitats. Lucky for us, there are many animal friendly options on the island. After some research and talking with the locals, we decided that supporting the operation at Anthony's Key would be a good thing. Best of all, we could make one of Ela's dreams come true. Dolphins have been her favorite animal since she was a young child. 

Tag refused to get in the water with the dolphins. Really. Are you surprised? So, while I was stuck on the dock supervising him (there's NO WAY we could leave him unsupervised, although the place probably wouldn't have minded), Ken got to get into the water with Ela and the dolphins. This started with the typical "meet the dolphin tricks and kisses". 

Later, Ela and Ken snorkeled with almost 20 dolphins. 

The Best Beach: West Bay

We took a water taxi to West Bay to enjoy the beaches. On non-cruise ship days, the restaurants welcome you to enjoy their beach chairs in exchange for buying drinks or food. On cruise ship days, beach chairs cost $20 each. Either way, the sand and water is pristine. We spent one day at a restaurant that served very strong drinks (a bit too strong for me) and enjoyed talking with some Roatan locals. Another day, I took the kids, (again, Ken was working), and we enjoyed the bonus activities that are available when cruise ships are in. Both kids spent hours on the blow up water toy and made friends with other English speaking tourists. 

There was so much we didn't do, and we all hope to return. I'd love to ferry our car to the island and use it to explore without paying the steep taxi fees. There are buses (actually shuttle vans) that are available and cheap, but they often choose to take circuitous routes looking for other fee paying customers. This makes a 15 minute drive last 60 minutes. On busy days, you may have someone sitting on your lap. 

Roatan can be done cheaply (rent a house in West End during the low season) or it can cost as much as a Hawaiian vacation. Planes land straight on the island, which means you won't have the "scary" Honduras experience. We took the passenger ferry (aka the Vomit Comet) and left our car on the mainland. Fortunately, we were on the early ferries which meant calmer waters. Luckily there was no vomiting although the crew did hand out vomit bags. 

Will we go back? We hope so, but who knows!

Fields - Summer is the best season for growing tobacco, but growing takes place year-round. It takes about 6 months for a full-cycle of tobacco leaf growth. Once the leaves are cut from the plant, they are taken to a building called "the big house" where they are dried. It takes about 1.5 months for the leaves to change color from green to brown. Once this occurs, the leaves are taken to be fermented. Sometimes chemicals are used in the fields, but not always. 

The Fermenting Room - Just entering the fermenting room made our eyes sting. The smell was very strong and all of the workers were wearing masks over their mouths. I can only imagine much stronger face protection would be required in the US. The tour noted that is it bad for the health of the workers to be in this room. 

Tobacco leaves spend 1.5-2 years fermenting. The temperature of the fermenting room is checked throughout the day where it needs to remain between 80-100 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves are watered and sometimes alcohol is used to quicken the fermenting process. All cigar fillers are fermented. 

More drying in the Drying Room - After the tobacco leaves are fermented, they must dry again. Leaves are also sorted by size, color and strength. Darker and thicker leaves are stronger. Sometimes an oven is used to boil leaves and give them a darker color. 

Sorting Room

A Cigar is made of 3 parts:  The inside is the filler. A binder is wrapped around the filler to keep it together. Finally, a wrapper is rolled around the cigar to give it a pleasing look. 

Fillers - Fillers only have the center of the leaf, the vein, removed. Fillers are the best quality leaves that are grown.

Wrappers - The wrappers are grown in green houses so they can get bigger. These leaves are not fermented. 1 leaf leads to 2 parts. The vein in the middle of the leaf is removed and, like all other remains of the leaves, is composted. The wrapper is the most expensive part of the cigar because it needs a big leaf. Damaged wrappers become binders. 

PRODUCTION  - Production jobs are the most coveted ones in the factory because they make the most money. During the high season of November and December, more workers are needed in production, which makes a lot of people happy. Production includes the rolling of the cigars. 

1. The Man's Job - The man uses simple molds and machines to wrap the binder around the filler. After he has completed 10 of these, he puts them into a box and compresses them for 20 minutes. 

2. The Woman's Job - The woman wraps the compressed filler and binder in a wrapper. She flattens the wrapping leaf, cuts it to the shape she needs and wraps the whole thing together. Later she clips the end. All left-over pieces are used in cheaper cigars. 

Aging Room

The Boxing Room - Each day, this room produces 400-500 boxes in different shapes and materials. Cigar boxes can be made of plywood or Cedar. 

Packaging Room - This room is full of women working in teams around a table. The first woman places the sticker on the cigar and may place these into a box. Another woman wraps the box. Another woman may add more stickers or labels to the box. This process varies a bit for each table, but the end result is the same. Beautifully packaged boxes of cigars ready for sale. 

Did you know that cigars contain 10-20x times the amount of nicotine than a cigarette? Plus they don't have a filter... Keep that in mind when you smoke your next one. 

My apologies for any mistakes here. I took thorough notes at the factory, but the tour wasn't in the order of production. I did my best! I hope you enjoyed it!

Nicaragua - In early November, we decided we were done with Nicaragua. We didn't love the mountain town of Esteli enough to stay another month. This was a rather last-minute decision, and we even surprised ourselves. Since we hadn't paid rent or renewed the car permit, we weren't financially invested in staying another month. While we had some great experiences, we were ready to move. 

Where would we go? We still had another 30 days before our visas for Honduras/Guatemala/Nicaragua/El Salvador were up. 

Honduras - We left Esteli and drove straight to La Ceiba, Honduras where we spent one night. The following morning, we hopped on a ferry (nicknamed the Vomit Comet for obvious reasons) to Roatan Island. Roatan is one of the Bay Islands off the Caribbean Coast of Honduras. We spent a glorious 18 days and left hoping to return for a longer trip in 2016.

After Roatan, we drove to Copan, Honduras, and spent a day visiting with good friends. We explored the Copan Ruins which were spectacular, but even more so because of the recently revived Scarlet Macaw population. 

Next, we drove to Panajachel, Guatemala returning for one week to say hola to more friends. It was a whirlwind week, and our daughter spent a lot of time away from us. We even hosted an impromptu pool party with most of the girls from our class last year. 

Finally, we drove to San Cristobal de las Casas, in the southern part of Mexico, 7000 feet high in the mountains. It's a magical town with a lot of unique charm. We planned to settle there for up to 6 months, but we didn't. Overall it's a lovely town, but cold. We acquired temporary warm clothes and enjoyed many evenings playing games in front of the fire. One high and low point was waiting in the boiling sun for 2 hours for the Pope and his entourage to pass.  

In the middle of our San Cristobal stay, we couldn't find accommodations over the Christmas and New Years holiday. We had a total of 3 weeks without a place to stay. What to do? We headed to Oaxaca for the holidays staying in a fabulous apartment 40 feet from the Zocalo, the center of town. There we spent many late evenings playing with big balloon like creations and glow-in-the-dark rubber band toys with several Mexican friends. For the first time in over a year, the kids drooled over new Legos and Monster High Dolls at big BIG toy stores. 

Currently, we're exploring the Yucatan Peninsula and enjoying weather in the 80s and 90s. We fed manatees in Palenque and walked the old wall, originally built to keep out pirates, in Campeche. We restocked our clothes, sunscreen and bug spray in Merida. And we spent a day swimming in the Gulf of Mexico in Progresso. 

It hasn't all been easy. Ken and I spent several weeks battling stomach amoebas and a compromised immune system. We've been to the dentist where everyone in the waiting room heard our daughter screaming several times. But, the little downs can't take away our joy of exploring this part of the world. 

We're super excited to meet friends on the other side of the Yucatan Peninsula in Cancun. Then, we'll begin a long journey south. How far south will we go? Even we're not sure. 

Stay tuned for details of our journey. We look forward to catching up.