Surf - Design Planet

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.71

2009-11-11T08:19:00.009-08:00

Every year on November 11th, I like to remember soldiers and others from all countries who have fallen fighting for freedom, peace and righteousness; and those brave soldiers whom are presently serving. My mom's father fought in the First World War as a British soldier, and my father fought in the Second World War as a Canadian soldier. Luckily, both came home to their families, but they both would never be the person they were.

Canadian soldiers attend a Remembrance Day ceremony in Afghanistan. (CBC)

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Remembrance Day:

Across Canada and around the world, people were attending remembrance ceremonies Wednesday to remember those who have fallen serving in their armed forces.

The day marks the anniversary of the end of hostilities in the First World War, which ended at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918.

In Ottawa this morning, Prince Charles and Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, will attend a ceremony with Prime Minister Stephen Harper and Gov. Gen. Michaëlle Jean at the National War Memorial in Confederation Square. Thousands of people have shown up for the remembrance.

This year's Silver Cross mother is Della Marie Morley, whose son, Cpl. Keith Morley, was killed in Afghanistan in 2006 in a suicide bombing. Morley said she was proud to represent the mothers and families of Canadian soldiers who have given their lives. "I would like you to think of my son and the young men and women that have given their lives in Afghanistan, but as well as the other wars. I grew up with Remembrance Day a very big part of our lives because my grandparents were part of World War I," Morley told CBC News. "There are some of Keith's friends in Afghanistan right now, so we also need to think of the people that are over there now doing their job."

More than 100,000 Canadians soldiers have died in various conflicts since 1899, including:

* More than 240 in the Boer War.
* More than 66,000 in the First World War.
* More than 44,000 in the Second World War.
* 516 in the Korean War.
* 121 in peacekeeping missions.
* 133 in Afghanistan.

More than 600,000 Canadian soldiers volunteered to go overseas for the Great War. In addition to those who died, 172,000 were wounded.

Only one Canadian veteran from the First World War is still alive — John Babcock, 109, who was born on an Ontario farm and lives in the United States.

Link to CBC's complete story:
http://www.cbc.ca/canada/story/2009/11/11/remembrance-ceremonies.html

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Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.70

2009-11-03T15:10:00.030-08:00

Approximately two months have flown by since my last blog on my model projects. I am presently working on several. I just finished another Island Diorama. It was fun ...hope you enjoy it also! Comments are always welcome!

SYSTEM FORTRESS - SOUTH ATARIA ISLAND

-28 MACROSS SERIES
-an ARII Plastic Model - No.5 Kit No. AR-571-2800

Quite a while ago I hand painted the plastic mould island base for Gerry Anderson's Thunderbirds Secret Base diorama ...which I blogged about in Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.13. At that time, I also painted the island for the above System Fortress South Ataria which is shown in the above box top illustration. Below is my painted island base.

Well, I finally had time to work on, and complete, the rest of this diorama island model. I would like to suggest that before you continue on in this blog, that you first visit Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.21. In my Blurp No. 21, about a quarter of the way down in the blog, is where I first began writing about this model. After you have looked at No.21, just use your back button to return to here.

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Inside of the model's box with various components and base shown above.

Unfinished model parts shown above.

Over a period of three weeks I primed, sprayed, and hand painted all of the model's parts and figures.

The model included:

1. A quantity of twenty four 1" high people figures.

Notes: As the island is small in relation to all the parts supplied I decided to use only 8 of the figures. The others I will use for another Macross model. These figures were all painted alike for a uniform appearance using Games Workshop figure acrylic paints.

2. Four standing Valkyrie fighter warriors.

Notes: These were primed white and sprayed with a white acrylic plastic paint. Then I hand painted each figure in its own color combination.

3. Two Valkyrie ship/plane figures in standing position were supplied, along with two Valkyrie ship/plane figures in flying mode.

Notes: I decided to paint all of the above four Valkyrie fighters in a similar paint scheme. The painting process was the same as the other four figures in 2.

4. Decals for the above figures 2. & 3.

Notes: Decals were not used for any parts. As this was a 1980's model, the supplied decals had all become very brittle with age ...they would not apply at all.

5. Two landing pods with ramp doors - supplied with a spring mechanism for launching small land/water/flight vehicles.

Notes: I sprayed the pods with a "Rust-oleum Metallic" Bronze paint. This is a new spray paint that works well, and is available in different bronze, gold and silver. Games Workshop colors, "Tin Bitz", "Boltgun Metal" and "Mirthrol Silver", were used to texture and accent parts.

6. The Valkyrie's Weapons

Notes: I used Games Workshop's "Boltgun Metal" and a Copper Metallic paints.

7. The model's instruction sheet pages also showed the assembly instructions for a Super Dimensional Fortress (aka the SDF-1 Macross) (drawing above and illustration rendering at the top of this blog).

Notes:The above model that I put together here did not include this ship. When I purchased it quite a while ago, the box had been opened. It is possible that the sprue containing this ship was missing. If someone out there also has this model, maybe you can email me (left blog column) and let me know if your model included the S.D. Fortress. I do have another similar looking model. The "IMAI No.3 Macross SDF-1 Storm Attacker Construction" that I will assemble at a later date.

8. Other Model Finishing Notes:

I used Woodland Scenics "Lichen and a green Bush" for a touch of island planting.
Liquitex Acrylic Med. Viscosity - "Fluorescent Orange" was used for various part lighting.
Games Workshop's "Shadow Grey" (a blue grey) was used for Valkyrie cockpit canopies and as an accent color.
Black was used sparingly were required and thinned with matte medium to dirty up some parts (to make something look used or worn).
Games Workshop's "Tin Bitz" was used to accent the Valkyries rear power exhaust areas (its butt).
Games Workshop's "Varnish" and Hyplar Acrylics "Matte Medium" were used to seal all color throughout.

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Completing the South Ataria Island Base:

For a solid surface to mount the hand painted plastic mould base I chose a piece of 1/4" thick white hardboard. I followed the island's shape and drew a pencil line around, about 3/4" from the island base. I cut this shape out on my scroll saw. This would be the ocean around the island. I first painted the hardboard's top edge all around using Liquitex Acrylic's "Real Teal" and "Bright Aqua Green". When dry I mounted the island by drilling two holes at each end and inserting the correct length screw. The screws were later concealed with foliage. I detailed the water by applying some ripples and using white for shoreline wave action. All was coated with gloss acrylic medium to protect and give the water depth.

Mounting and fastening of the components and figures to the Island Base:

As my diorama is not being used as a toy, but rather as an interesting Anime display, I took time to plan where each figure, Valkyrie, and other parts would look their best (tell a story) and give the model good placement composition and interest. Clear plastic rod was used to suspend the Valkyries in flight.

Images of my completed SYSTEM FORTRESS - SOUTH ATARIA ISLAND

Reference Sources:
http://fanfiction.net/s/660155/1/The_Legend_of_Megaroad
http://www.animationunlimited.com/index.php?itemid=68
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Super_Dimension_Fortress_Macross
http://www.collectiondx.com/node/3650

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.69

2009-09-12T15:30:00.020-07:00

GIANT ROBO 1
SR (Super Robot Series No.3) by SKYNET

This Giant Robo model figure is from Japan. It is based on the original Giant Robo character by Tokusatsu. I do not know a lot about this character. All the model directions are in Japanese. Plus there is not a great deal of reference on the internet. I did find some reference links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Robo_(tokusatsu) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Robo

A good tip: If you want to keep a model's instruction sheet(s) in mint condition, just photocopy them. It will save you getting upset when your paint or glue drips on them. Also you can make notes or highlight where you left off on the copy. Originals can be kept in binders in hole-punched archival plastic sleeves.

This robot figure is fairly easy to assemble - head, arms, legs, hands and body. It comes with extra poss able arms and hands - missile firing fingers, punching fist etc. What does take time to assemble is those little metal half-round rivets. Yes! ..that's right, you have to glue each one on to the metal sleeve cuffs on the hand, legs and the body. I actually assembled, all the parts shown above a couple of years ago when I lived in Honolulu. Recently, I sanded and filled any mold joints and then primed and paint finished the parts in White.

Ok, you are asking 'why there are watch parts in the image above'. Well, I don't know? The figure came with this time watch. It is also shown in the above model instruction sheet. Maybe someone out there knows why?

Above is shown some other images I found for referencing colors.

I found the above image of a similar GR-2 model, and it seems that many older character animation(s) are always being updated in form, videos and cartoons, both in Japan and the US. I don't know why a cute girl with a surfboard is present, but she has the right initials on her board!

Here are a couple more helpful links re Giant Robo: http://gr-anime.com/english/about_introduction.html
http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=giant+robo&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGGL_en_____250&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=DSSsSqWZHIvssQPgxtj8BA&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=16#

The robot colors that I used are: white, and hand-painted silver (metal), red, blue and yellow.

I also used two copper/brass colors for the watch mechanical parts. Citadel Paints were used throughout. Some simple color area decals were supplied - but I decided not to use them.

Note in the above photo, that I used a Silver for the face, and a darker Gunmetal Silver for his neck. Two Silvers were also used on the shoes also. The Gunmetal Silver was used for the flying tanks on his back. The red line grooves on his Egyptian style head helmet were badly mold formed - not very straight - this made it difficult to get a clean red/white line appearance.

On completion of the figure, I decided to mount/display him on a small wood base that I had. I primed it with White Gesso, lightly sanded it, and then sprayed it with a Silver Hammered decorative, textured finish. These little wood bases are available at hobby and dollar stores usually. I glued his shoes to the board with Super Glue. The rest of his arms, legs etc. just fit into each other making the robot's parts movable, if wanted.

At this point, it looked great, but I didn't know what to do with the extra hands and arms. I wanted a display model, and I didn't want the parts to get lost. Although, I must admit, I have misplaced the watch lens, so I haven't put it together yet. Where are you???

I decided to make a wall behind the figure to hold the parts. Sort of like the extra parts or weapons you would see on a wall in a Batman movie. In my basket of recycled parts I had a metal grid panel from an old music computer speaker face. I also had some brass colored coffee bag clips. So I fastened them, in the position needed to hold the arms etc., using some old computer bolts to the metal grid. I had to drill holes carefully for the bolts. A nut was applied to the back side. The completed grid and the clip hardware was all sprayed silver.

The arm and hand holding rack was secured with a base screw at the back. Later, when I find the watch clear lens (I hope), I will then display it on the front left side to complete this robot figure display - maybe threading the watch band around his left leg.

Gee ...I hope my Lab didn't eat it! ...Leila

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.68

2009-09-09T14:57:00.030-07:00

The Silver Surfer:

The Silver Surfer (Norrin Radd) is a Marvel Comics Superhero created by Jack Kirby. The character first appears in Fantastic Four #48 (March 1966), the first of a three-issue arc that fans and historians call "The Galactus Trilogy".

Fantastic Four No.48

Originally a young astronomer of the planet Zenn-La, Norrin Radd made a bargain with the cosmic entity Galactus, pledging to serve as his herald in order to save his homeworld from destruction. Imbued in return with a tiny portion of Galactus' Power Cosmic, Radd acquired great powers and a new version of his original appearance.

Galactus also created for Radd a surfboard-like craft - modeled after a childhood fantasy of his — on which he would travel at speeds beyond that of light. Known from then on as the Silver Surfer, Radd began to roam the cosmos searching for new planets for Galactus to consume. When his travels finally took him to Earth, the Surfer came face-to-face with the Fantastic Four, a team of powerful superheroes that helped him to rediscover his nobility of spirit. Betraying Galactus, the Silver Surfer saved Earth but was punished in return by being exciled there.

Silver Surfer No.1

I have never read a Silver Surfer comic book, but I was attracted to this character because of his surfboard. I spent 13 years in Hawaii - on Oahu. I admired those muscular, tanned local guys and gals that learned to ride those huge North Shore ocean waves during the winter months. My first art painting website is called Surf-the-Arts. This blog is called Surf - Design Planet. I also like Surfboard and other Skate/Ski Boards - their material and design styles, and also their applied trendy graphics.

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While I was living in Hawaii I purchased an Attakus Limited Edition (#1251) Sculpture of the Silver Surfer. It was copyrighted in 1997 by Marvel Characters, Inc. and was produced in France. This is still my favorite Silver Surfer sculpture to-date because of its' simplicity of flowing design form.

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Renovating another Older Prototype Silver Surfer!

Later I was offered another Silver Surfer sculpture shown below. I don't know much about it. It was purchased with other items. It stands about 13" high. I was told it was an early prototype. Some of the figure's fingers were broken and others missing. As well the silver paint coating was rough. It also came with an unpainted surfboard mold that was well sculptured.

Repairing the Figure:

Using clay and wire, I first carved and formed new fingers, which were drilled for wire inserts into the hand. The fingers were then coated in layers of a Porcelain Epoxy repair. The complete sculpture was fine sanded, primed and given a coat of White Acrylic Primer. Final layers of Silver Paint, and a Clear Protective Gloss Coating was applied a couple of months later.

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Silver Surfer's Surfboard - a New Fin:

The above Surfboard's bottom had a rough slot for the tail fin, but no fin. After checking reference online for the shape and size of the fin, I cut one out on my scroll saw using Balsa Wood. After applying White Acrylic Gesso primer and sanding, I fused it to the board with Super Glue. I applied 3 layers of Porcelain Epoxy repair to the fin over time, sanding between the dried layers. The complete Surfboard was primed and finished as the above figure.

Silver Surfer's Surfboard - New Top Graphics:

Most surfboards, that I've seen, have a graphic statement on them - whether personal or some sort of advertising.

I did some thumbnail sketches a while ago of a couple of ideas for a board top design. I liked the idea of the letter "S" (Silver Surfer).

So, I proceeded to mask the Silver Surfboard top with painter's green tape and sketched out the above "S" design accurately where I wanted it. The design was cut through the tape with a new No.11 blade. The letter S and surrounding design tape was removed. I spray painted the letter areas with a Silver Rust-oleum Hammered Finish Paint. I removed the tape carefully. When totally dried, I applied a pin stripe outline by hand using a Gunmetal Silver Hobby Paint (Citadel Paints - mentioned in previous blog No.67). As shown below, holes were finally drilled through the Surfboard, and into the Silver Surfer figure's feet, for its later placement mounting.

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For this muscular Silver Surfer, I would like to create a display that shows a little more than just him standing on a surfboard like other previous sculptural Silver Surfers ...A tribute to Jack Kirby

Mmmm? What should I do?

...Well I really like this illustration below that shows him surfing through a Galaxy (Cosmos) of Stars, Planets and Asteroids!

This is the direction where I am heading for my display:

My first sketch above - trying to see if I could raise the Silver Surfer off a surface, and support this 3 pound statue on a couple of randomly placed asteroids.

Components sketch

I have a 12" round bar stool plywood circle.

I could use some solid wood blocks cut from a 2" x 6" pine plank as uprights to hold the figure with surfboard. Angled grooved slots could solidly hold the surfboard on the angle I want making it look like he is shooting through space.

These supports could then be totally covered in glued asteroid shaped styrofoam rock shapes. Other smaller rocks could be applied to the round base.

The styrofoam rocks can be fully textured, detailed and painted.

The round wood base could be hand painted as a full 'out there in space scene'.

Sketch of my proposed display:
"The Silver Surfer flying through Space and just avoiding Asteroids"

...I'll let you know how he turns out!!!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.67

2009-09-09T10:21:00.021-07:00

Update on the completion of my Gerry Anderson’s Thunderbirds Secret Base - Tracy Island Model Kit by IMAI:

A way back in January of 2008 in my blog Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.13 I detailed the making of the above model's Tracy Island. I just got around to paint finishing the space ships and vehicles for this island diorama. Decals were supplied for the ship/vehicle identification numbers also.

I began, by giving the little ships/vehicles a coat of White Plastic for Primer
- I used Rust-oleum Speciality Plastic Primer.

Once the parts were primed, I did research online to find reference illustrations and photos of these vehicles. I printed out some small prints and noted how many different colors I would need.

I chose Games Workshop (Warhammer) Citadel Colors to hand paint the space ships/vehicles. These colors are excellent. They were originally created for hand detailing Warhammer Game battle figures.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Games_Workshop http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/

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Reference Information on the Citadel 'Mega Paint Set' Colors:

The Games Workshop Mega Paint Set is truly the ultimate set for the hobbyist who just has to have it all: containing all of the Citadel Colour and Foundation paints and every Wash as well as brushes, glue, flock and sand.

The Mega Citadel Paint Set consists of one grey custom Figure Case containing all 73 Colour, Wash and Foundation paints from the Citadel range. It also includes PVA Glue, sand, three types of static grass and seven paintbrushes. Eight Citadel Washes, including: Gryphonne Sepia, Ogryn Flesh, Baal red, Devlan Mud, Badab Black, Leviathan Purple, Asurmen Blue, Thraka Green.

Eighteen Foundation Paints, including: Iyanden Darksun, Macharius Solar Orange, Mechrite Red, Tau Sept Ochre, Calthan Brown, Khemri Brown, Tallarn Flesh, Dheneb Stone, Gretchin Green, Knarloc Green, Orkhide Shade, Fenris Grey, Hormagaunt Purple, Mordian Blue, Chardon Granite, Necron Abyss, Adeptus Battlegrey, Astronomican Grey.

Forty Citadel Colour Paints, including: Sunburst Yellow, Golden Yellow, Blazing Orange, Blood Red, Red Gore, Scab Red, Dark flesh, Dwarf Flesh, Elf Flesh, Liche Purple, Warlock Purple, Regal Blue, Ultramarines Blue, Enchanted Blue, Shadow grey, Space wolves Grey, Ice Blue, Hawk Turquoise, Dark Angels Green, Snot Green, Gobling Green, Scorpion Green, Rotting Flesh, Camo Green, Catachan Green, Graveyard Earth, Scorched Brown, Bestial brown, Vermin Brown, Snakebite Leather, Bubonic Brown, Vomit Brown, Desert Yellow, Kommando Khaki, Bleached Bone, Fortress Grey, Codex Grey, Chaos Black, Skull White, 'Ardcoat (Gloss Varnish).

Seven Citadel Colour Metallic Paints, including: Burnished Gold, Shining Gold, Dwarf Bronze, Tin Bitz, Boltgun Metal, Chainmail, Mithril Silver.

Note: The Games Workshop Mega Paint Set is produced in the UK, and presently difficult to find. It usually sells for around $200.US. Luckily, I was able to purchase two complete sets a few years ago at around $120.US.

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Colors I used:

Grumbacher's Hyplar Titanium White Acrylic; and the following Games Workshop Colors:
Mithril Silver, Boltgun Metal, Blood Red, Bad Moon Yellow, Golden Yellow, Vomit Brown, Goblin Green and Ice Blue.

To complete this Tracy Island display mounting I cut a 12" x 17" piece of 1/4" thick White Hard Board, giving the corners a 1" radiius, and painting the board's unfinished edge white. The formed moulded plastic island was screw mounted only to the hard board base, as the bottom needs to be accessible to access the mechanics and batteries. A photo of the bottom mechanics is at Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.13

Adding the finished little space ships/vehicles brings Gerry Anderson's Tracy Island diorama alive; and takes me back to those original TV episodes!

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Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.66

2009-08-19T13:05:00.011-07:00

My Votoms Scopedog Army:

In Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.36 I discussed Scopedogs in detail. When I had time, I assembled and primed quite a few of them in White ready for painting and detailing. I also previously mentioned these figures in Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.59.

A couple of weeks ago I took a couple of evenings to spray paint some of these Scopedog figures, which all have their own name, in their appropriate body color. I then hand paint other colors for their armor, shields, weapons, etc. I share a few photos with you below.

Scopedog: Snaping-Turtle Scale 1/60

Scopedog: Paracute Sack Type AMT-9-ST Scale 1/60
Helmets were glued in open or half open position to show the cockpit and pilot.

Scopedog: X-ATL-01-DT ZWERGT Kit No.HV-13 (Navy Japan) Scale 1/60

I added this little guy hitching a ride on back of the ski sled!

Note: I do not understand the Japanese language. I wish I did as most models that I have collected and their instructions are in Japanese; as well as the models story/information, and the people/person behind its creation. So, if you find errors, or just have comments anytime ...they are very welcome!

Also posts may be few in September as my youngest daughter is getting married - lots of company - got to move my studio over for those blow-up mattresses :>)

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.65

2009-08-19T08:18:00.014-07:00

When you think about size and a Tyrannosaurus Rex - think jaws!

T-Rex's four feet long jaws had 50 - 60 thick, bone-crunching teeth, which were over 9" long. That's about the size of a big banana. One T-Rex was found with 13" long teeth. This guy could eat up to 500 pounds of meat and bones in one bite! A lot of people think Tyrannosaurus Rex is the biggest carnivorous Dino, but Giganotosaurus and Carcharodontosaurus are slightly bigger ...gulp!

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My T-Rex:

A vinyl molded dinosaur model that I purchased from Japan 4-5 years ago. I ordered it because it was quite realistic ...as far as a dinosaur goes, and just because I wanted a mean looking Dino. It was much better than most and apparently created by a well-known Japanese designer (I did not make note of his name). It came in a clear package ready to mount on its base - ready to display as-is. It was fairly well done, and I could have just put it on a shelf, but it needed more! The mouth and creature's tongue was bright pink - no details. The teeth were all pure white - he must have brushed and flossed? The body's skin was textured and painted but didn't have much contrast, and not enough 'real-life' wear and tear - it looked like it was just born. The T-Rex also came with a boring plain, hard, thin, green plastic oval display base, with feet pegs, to mount the dinosaur on. It was very also light in weight. The dinosaur could easily be tipped over. the T-Rex stands about 8 1/2" tall, and is 19" long from tail to nose tip.

I decided to 'pimp' it up a bit!

Additions to the Supplied Display Base:

1. I fused the 6" x 8" green plastic supplied base to a piece of 6 3/4" x 9 1/4" x 3/4" thick plywood using a caulking gun of No More Nails construction adhesive.

2. I added a mitred decorative 1/4" x 3/4" moulding to the plywood edge all around. I usually use Carpenter Glue, with a couple of recessed penny nails, about 1 1/2" in from the moulding's ends ...a small hole pre-drilled - so the wood doesn't split. The wood base will give the T-Rex a firm resting place. I will paint the wood base on completion.

3. Before mounting the finished dinosaur, I added grass, lichen, foliage and rocks to the supplied plain green base. I keep a large plastic set of drawers in my studio full of purchased and found/collected scenery materials that could be used for a variety of model types. I created the base green grasses using Woodland Scenics Grasses and Lichen. I also had a few artificial long narrow fabric type plant leaves, and some old reddish colored lava type rocks.

Securing the grasses, lichen, leaf foliage and rocks:

1. I rough sanded the existing green plastic base.

2. White glue was smoothed over the surface.

3. Two colors of grasses were sprinkled with my fingers over the surface.

4. I decided where I wanted the rocks and foliage. I used the NO More Nails construction adhesive to hold the rocks and leaf foliage.

5. I shook the model base, and re-added more white glue and grasses to any areas that were not covered.

6. I also added a small amount of Woodland Scenics railroad model stone in different sizes to the ground using the white glue.

Repainting the Tyrannosaurus Rex:

1. I hand painted the body of the dinosaur by mixing a darker tone value of the existing colors. I used a touch Flat Black mixed with Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna.

2. Yellow ochre mixed with White and dirtied with a little Matte Black was used for the underbelly and lower jaw.

3. Red mixed with touches of Burnt Umber and White were used for the tongue and inside mouth. The teeth were also dirtied a bit.

*Note: The trick in painting all of the above was to add at least 25% Clear Acrylic Matte Medium to all of the above instead of thinning with water. When lightly and thinly applied it let the dinosaur's original colors show through the newly applied paint.

4. On completion I applied by brush a seal of Acrylic Matte Medium over the whole dinosaur and then fused him to the base pegs supplied. They are totally hidden by the creature's feet.

Painting the wooden plywood base and its' surrounding molding:

1. I applied with a 1" soft brush a mix of Acrylic Payne's Grey and 25% Matte Medium.

2. When it was dry, I lightly dry brushed, in different directions, using the same brush, a mix of Burnt Umber and Matte Medium.

3. I dry brushed a mix of Burnt Sienna and Matte Medium over, but applied lightly and less to the surface than the previous two color mixes). Each layer lets the previous one show through. The third color - Burnt Sienna was applied just to warm up the overall color effect a little. After the color dried, as shown in the above photo, I used a small brush and touched up any rough areas and added more grass to any bare areas on the oval base.

I am quite happy with the day's effort to make this Tyrannosaurus Rex into a much better and definitely meaner dinosaur display!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.64

2009-08-17T14:50:00.031-07:00

Yes! The fires are out in the Okanagan Valley - it's a little cooler, we finally had a day of rain, and a beautiful evening ...back to the arts!

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Star Wars "Battle of Hoth Diorama by AMT ERTL
(Stock # 8743 copyright: 1995 Lucasfilm Ltd.)

From the movie: Star Wars Episode V "The Empire Strikes Back"
(Lucasfilm/20th Century Fox) 1980

This Battle of Hoth Action Scene comes with 100 parts:

A well detailed styrene molded dimensional battlefield base with Echo station.
Two telecomunication disks.
Three large fixed turret guns.
Three Rebel Snowspeeders.
One X-Wing Fighter.
One Scout Walker
Four soldiers mounted on Tauntauns.
A large selection of soldiers for both sides.
Two Imperial Walkers.
One battle-damaged Imperial Walker with separate leg.

* Most of the parts are well detailed, but the model's basic scale of 1/156 is different for some of the parts.

A two-sided directional sheet is supplied: A. for assembling the various components of this battle diorama, and B. the suggested placement of all the parts on its battlefield base.

Mounting of the diorama base:

1. Before assembling the various parts, I fused the -12" x -18" styrene molded diorama battlefield base on to a sheet of 1/2" thick good plywood using a cauking gun of Lepage's No More Nails construction adhesive.

2. Then I mitred a 1/2" x 1/2" wood L-shaped moulding edge frame, applying it upside down around the plywood. My outside moulding finished dimension is 12 3/8" x 18 5/8" The diorama will be masked, and the frame primed and sprayed gloss white on completion of the model.

Model parts assembly:

All of the model components are very easy to assemble. Most are 'one-two and glue'. The parts do require some detailed clean up of the plastic parts and sanding under a desk magnifying glass/light. The very small figures are accurate but contain a lot of unwanted mold make (manufacturing) extras.

Also included with the model is a standard AMT ETRL numbered color reference guide in various languages, but very few colors are numbered on the instructional sheet.

*Note: On completing the mounting of the base, and assembling the model's various parts it becomes apparent that there are two main items, or things, that will make this model unique and special - not just out of the box:

No.1: Accurate color painting of all of the small parts - the many figures, the ships, the Walkers, etc.; and the detailing of the snow covered diorama battlefield base, and to accomplish this you will need your painting talents based on No.2: good research.

Research:

You can do your own web search. As I did not remember the movie details I first watched a couple of videos of the Hoth Battle from the Empire Strikes Back movie - taking notes as I watched: Part 1 at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6uQ1ROQm0k and part 2 at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhpS69eAXrU&feature=related

I found the following very useful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_Wars_Episode_V_The_Empire_Strikes_Back and another fellow who had previously completed the same model at http://starwarsmodels.com/hoth.html

I also looked at the color illustrations on other box tops I had of other larger Star Wars models that were used in this mini diorama.

An excellent book with drawings and photos of many original Star Wars vehicles and characters is "From Star Wars to Indiana Jones The Best of the Lucasfilm Archives" by Mark Colla and Shinji Hata (page 41 Tauntauns) (Pages 48 - 55 Battle of Hoth details).

I then spent 3 days detailing all of the soldier figures, vehicles and the AT Walkers.

Detail, Details and More Detail

Painting of the Styrene Moulded Base:

I started the painting of the base by applying a brushed coat of Acrylic White Gesso to the surface.

I then decided where the light (the sun) was casting shadows. You can do this in your studio by putting a light on your chosen side to show a stronger shadow. Snow is not just pure white. It relects the blue or clouds in the sky. For the shadow side of all snow mounds, trenches, the underground Echo Base compound, the tracks created by the soldiers and vehicles I used Acrylic Payne's Grey. and an Acrylic Medium Grey. *Note: The Blues and Greys were mixed with the needed amount of white; and Acrylic Matte Medium was also added to thin the colors allowing the white and colors used to show through.

Dirty Trenches, Battle Damage, Soldier Tromping & Vehicle Crashing:

Next I painted the pipe/cord lines on the ground in a Silver. Using mixes of Burnt Umber and Payne's Grey I painted all the vehicle crash skids, the tromped trench line and the dirty snow which would be created in an action snowy battle scene. All of the paint detail was edge softened using White with Acrylic Matte Medium.

With all the little figures and vehicles painted - as shown in two of the above photos. I then placed the Snowspeeders that crashed, and I decided to place the X-Wing Fighter (in flight) on a clear rod (drilled and glued into the mould).

At this point, I decided to cut away the base's moulding at the underground exit. Because it looked like a wall blocking the Snowspeeder from exiting.

I used No More Nails Cauking applied with a palette knife to the base of each vehicle, Walkers, and the little soldiers etc. I slowly decided where each piece would go, and carefully installed each. I used a little White Acrylic Modeling Paste to cover the little soldiers footing bases with snow. White acrylic (snow) was also applied over some of the ground piping and to the tops of the large ground turret guns.

This battle scene looks great. The painting and detailing is a lot of work, but well worth the effort. I will mask the model and spray the outside frame with a high gloss white in a couple of days.

******

Here is some more detail about this model's location:

Echo Base is the Rebel Alliance base established after the Alliance evacuation of Yavin IV. The base, which was featured in the opening sequence of Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back, is composed of a series of tunnels and caverns cut from the icy mountain side of the planet Hoth.

Echo Base was not designed with the means to repel an Imperial assault, but instead relied on its shield generator and its hidden location on a desolate planet in an unoccupied system to protect it from the Empire. Because of this most of its equipment and machinery were able to be taken apart and evacuated at a moment's notice, if the base was discovered.

When the Empire's probe droids found the base, the Rebels fought a holding action to give the transports enough time to evacuate. They used the base's planetary defense shield to prevent an Imperial orbital bombardment, and then used small airspeeders modified for the cold climate of Hoth, called Snowspeeders, and a small contingent of soldiers, to slow the advance of the Empire's AT-AT walkers. This holding action allowed the Rebels time to use Echo Base's Planet Defender Ion Cannon to open holes in the Imperial blockade, allowing many transports and their X-wing escorts to escape.

What is a Tauntaun?

Tauntauns are 2.5 m (8.2 ft) tall bipeds, indigenous to the ice planet Hoth. Tauntauns are covered with white fur, downturned horns, four nostrils, and have a foul body odor. They subsist off lichen found in hoarfrost as well as eating mushrooms and other fungi found in ice caves. They give birth to two young at a time, twice in one Hoth year. They are used as mounts by the Rebel Alliance, and have been exported off-world to other cold-climate regions (including Coruscant's polar caps) for use as mounts, beasts of burden, and tourist attractions. Their thick layers of fat and fur provide adequate protection from the cold during the daytime, but Tauntauns cannot survive the plummeting night temperatures without shelter. Tauntauns are sometimes preyed upon by the Wampa. The horns aren't used for attack, due to their gentle nature. They are, however, used for defense when used as mounts for the Hoth Echo Base scouts. They are fairly common creatures on Hoth.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.63

2009-07-29T08:38:00.007-07:00

Flaming Hot

Here in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia it is very hot and dry - 33 Degrees Celsius plus. If you have a peek at my last two blogs (Blurp No. 61 & 62) you will see that over the last two weeks it has been flaming hot.

Terrace Mountain Fire

Luckily, even though I have forest on two sides of my property, the two very close raging fires did not come within our subdivision. I mentioned that my daughter who lives in town was evacuated for four days.

Neighbors were packing up their SUV's and pickups, as evacuation notices were being announced on the radio for areas close by us. When the raging fire first started many people only had fifteen minutes to get out. It became very nerve racking as we could see the fires from our subdivision.

View from my daughter's condo

The smoke was getting so bad that we also put our dogs inside.

After talking to some neighbors who were packing a bag, my wife said "What should we pack?"

Ok, she works from home online, so we gathered her laptop and accessories. We prepared the two cages and food for our loving two Labrador Retrievers. We also put together three boxes of old photos and slides (the antique yellowing Kodak photos - the ones not backed up on a portable hard drive. Yes, I've got that hard drive. Then we each packed a change of clothes and our favorite shoes etc.

Then my wife said "What are you taking?"

How does an artist who has been creating art in the way of studio space, supplies, reference, photos, flat files, equipment, power tools, paintings, scale models, displays and designer collectibles for over thirty years decide what to take?

I honestly froze. I did grab my camera! I could not think. I walked up and down my hall. I then realized I liked everything; but that each item (thing) was really NOT more important than another ...it was ALL part of me - 'my arty designer self'. Eventually I decided that if I was called to evacuate, I'd take a small selection of my paintings created over the years. So I prepared, by wrapping in towels, my first oil painting I did at the age of twelve, along with paintings created while camping in Ontario and Eastern Canada, and a couple I produced in Hawaii, while out painting with fellow artist friends. My Ford FX4 pickup was now full!

Later that afternoon, I went through the house with my camera and took pictures of all the rooms. A comforting thought! Now, I was ready to go if called.

Thankfully, our subdivision was one of only a few that were never on alert or evacuated. The two fires close to us are now totally contained thanks to many firefighters, water helicopter and plane personnel, etc. The Terrace Mountain Fire north of us is 85%+ contained. The smoke has cleared in our area.

I took my two Labrador Retrievers to the beach yesterday - It's nice getting back to normal, and feeling more secure!

This week it is still extremely hot in the Okanagan Valley, and in many other areas of British Columbia. Those hero fire fighters and other personnel will be busy.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.62

2009-07-22T13:16:00.010-07:00

West Kelowna Fires Update:

The Glenrosa Valley and Rose Valley Fires, in the District of West Kelowna, are presently contained. Most evacuated residents are back, others will be back by this evening. Some will stay on alert. This is the first day that the smell of smoke has not been overwhelming in my area between the two fires.

View from Glenrosa on right to Mission Hill on left

We sure have to give those 'hero' fire fighters, fire helicopter and plane personal, police, Gorman Bros. Lumber Mill employees, and Okanagan Valley volunteer neighbors tons of credit for continuously attacking these fires, and looking after people and their animals from dawn til dusk since last Saturday which saved the subdivisions all around, the Westbank town and homes that were in the direct line of a raging wind-swept fire. (I can still hear the helicopters going back and forth this Wednesday).

A very close call - a Glenrosa burnt hill and auto

Only three homes were burnt, along with some vehicles in Glenrosa from what I heard on local news. This is very sad, but what I was in horror to hear was that families returned to their homes yesterday to find their personal items vandalized by some DF's. Apparently they got around RCMP police barriers by back bush entering on all-terrain vehicles - very, very sad. Maybe they should bury them up to their necks in the fresh ash of the forest ...if they find them.

Arrow on above photos point to my daughter's condo in the town of Westbank. She was evacuated since Saturday, and allowed back to her home yesterday. The Glenrosa fire jumped Hwy No.97 and burnt land next to the town core and down to Gellatly Bay on Okanagan Lake.

Well, we're probably not out of the woods yet this summer as forest areas are extremely dry. ...It is currently 96 degrees fahrenheit.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.61

2009-07-20T09:50:00.006-07:00

Hot, Hot, Fire!

I mentioned in my Blog Blurp No.59, "when the weather gets hot in the Summer here in West Kelowna (part of the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia) the Scale Modeling gets Cold". Well it has become very hot I'm afraid. A forest fire broke out in West Kelowna, above the Gorman Brothers Mill (lumber mill), at around 2:30pm Saturday afternoon. There are currently 3 wildfires in the West Kelowna area.

Luckily our area subdivision is presently not affected - it is very smokey throughout the valley.

Fire information is available at http://www.castanet.net/
Fire pictures at http://www.am1150.ca/gallery_new/5245
Latest Updates: http://www.am1150.ca/node/962325

Forest fires in West Kelowna:

A. over 400 hectares in the Glenrosa area - now 40% contained.
B. 150 hectares in Rose Valley, New evacuation alerts in affect from the Emergency Operation Centre, from the Rose Valley Dam forest fire.
C. 875 hectares in the Terrace Mountain area.
over 11,000 people evacuated and 6,000 on standby

Area information: Okanagan Lake divides the West Kelowna district from the City of Kelowna which is on the East side. Devastation caused by forest fires in 2003, on the East Mission area side, destroyed more than 250 homes and caused more than 30,000 people to flee their homes.

Will keep you updated and let you know when I'm relaxed enough to resume my hobbies.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.60

2009-07-10T09:34:00.052-07:00

SPACE:1999's - "Alpha Moonbase Model" by AMT - ERTL

About the model:

The model diorama consists of a smaller scaled overall moon base habitat, with a corner larger scaled detail of its command control and launch center facilities. (no actual model scales are given by the manufacturer)

Instruction Sheet Side 1.

The model building habitat and detail parts fit onto a supplied white moulded styrene/plastic, two-piece moon landscape base (shown above) (just click any photo/picture to enlarge it).

Instruction Sheet Side 2.

Instructions (shown above) are included for the habitat and control center, along with suggested color for the components and small scaled figures.

**********

Before I share the making of my Alpha Moonbase, a little bit about its' origins:

Moonbase Alpha/Alpha Moonbase is a fictional moon base and the main setting in the science fiction TV series Space:1999.
Reference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_1999
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moonbase_Alpha

Space:1999 (ITC Entertainment & RAI, 1975-77) is a British science-fiction television series. In the series, nuclear waste from Earth is stored on the moon. The waste explodes in a catastrophic accident on 13 September 1999, which knocks the moon out of its orbit and sends it and the 311 inhabitants of Moonbase Alpha hurtling uncontrollably into outer space. The series was the last produced by the partnership of Gerry and Sylvia Anderson, famous for the TV series Thunderbirds, Captain Scarlet and the Mysterons, Fireball XL5, and UFO.

DVD's of the original Space:1999 TV Series are available at retail outlets such as Amazon.com, and books have been produced as well. YouTube videos are also available give you highlights of the TV series. Space:1999 Space Ship/Vehicles have been produced over the years in various prices, scales, and versions for fans and collectors.

Other good reference fan sites such as http://www.space1999.net/moonbase99/ can be found when searching.

While stumbling for model reference, I found that Moonbase Alpha was being used as a codename for one of the maps in development for an upcoming Map Pack for Halo 3. I also found this unusual site http://greyfalcon.us/restored/German%20Moon%20Base%20Alpha.htm

NASA also plans Moonbase: http://www.metafilter.com/56738/Moonbase-Alpha At this site the first paragraph shown leads you to a linked PDF file with interesting information on a possible moonbase plan (a page shown below)

**********

OK, back to building my model ...Base Preparation:

In the Instruction Sheet Side 1. (shown earlier in this blog) it shows that the white mould moon base is cut and overlapped slightly. I also noted that the styrene/plastic mould was very flimsy (of light material) (easy to dent). I glued the mould together along the center seam, let it dry, and then turned it over.

Next, I mixed 2 cups of a 'mold-a-scene plaster C1202' by Woodland Scenics with the recommended amount of water. (This sculpting plaster comes in 1/2 gallon, 2lbs./907.2G. net wt. milk cartons. I purchased 6 of these a while ago and use this product for a variety of modeling diorama needs.) I poured the mixed plaster into the bumpy mountain terrain and mould hollows, leveling the plaster of at the base height of the mould. I let the plaster dry for a day.

I cut a 1/2" thick x 17 1/2" long x 12" wide piece of plywood (good both sides). the plywood is about 1/4" bigger than the mould finished size.

I used a regular construction caulking gun with 'no-more-nails adhesive' (available at Home Depot or any hardware store).

I laid the plywood on top of the upside down mould with the dried plaster in it, and flipped both over.
While lifting the mould up carefully - by sliding a piece of card under, I applied a continuous bead of caulking adhesive along the center joint, on flat areas and all four sides of the moulds edge lip. This made the moon base mould pretty firm and fused it to the plywood.

The next day I white glued and penny nailed a mitred cornered wood decorative moulding all around.

Ready for some moon base detailing:

Rather than use a lot of greys for the moon's 'dead looking' surface, I chose to warm it up a little with some Warm Grey Browns - Burnt Umber and Sepia Acrylics with touches of Black and White to darken or lighten areas. Darker colors were typically used for recessed mountain, crater and shadow areas. There were a lot of small building pieces to be fused/glued on later, so I covered most of the surface with the painting.

To fill the edge hollow all around, between the mould and the frame moulding, I mixed Acrylic Matte Black with Matte Medium and Pure Sand, then applied it with a palette knife into the edge hollow - like grouting a tile. I used this similar method between the tiles of my chessboard in my Blog Blurp No. 58. I let all dry for a couple of days.

Later I will lightly sand, prime and spray paint the outside moulding.

**********

Preparing and placing the Alpha Moonbase habitat components, the landing pads, and detailing the access corridors.

Each of these puzzle type pieces was given a coat of Light Warm Grey Acrylic and allowed to dry overnight.

The next day I flat brushed a coat of Medium Warm Grey over the light grey; and then while still wet, I laid over each model piece a sheet of textured toilet paper - randomly lightly pressing ...which removed most of the medium grey - adding texture or surface wear/dirt.

Later I used Copper, Silvers, Gunmetals and White to highlight the raised mechanical portions of the structure's roof tops.

The mould contained raised lines (shown below) which are the access - travelling corrodors between the building structures and the landing/take-off pads. I masked these and hand painted them with a Metallic Silver before applying the building structure pieces.

A landing/take-off pad with access corridor, and Eagle space ships

A TV series captured landing base pad

As the the moon's surface mould was not even/level for gluing, and because each little building piece was hollow with a very small glueable lip edge, I decided to use my caulking gun with a good dab of 'no-more-nails adhesive', and with a little regular model glue where required. It worked very well!

I believe the white moulded base was probably manufacturered by a different company as I had to cheat quite a bit to get the building components to fit in the mould's recesses supplied.

**********

Constructing the Command Center:

Instruction Sheet Side 2. (shown earlier in this blog) details the putting together of the Command Center's building walls, floor and open roof trusses, as well as computer stations, chairs, people, and a circular stair.

I started by painting the Command Center's interior and exterior walls, the ceiling trusses and the computer desk tops all in a Light Warm Grey Acrylic.

I then painted the floors, the desk bottoms and stairtreads in a Medium Warm Grey Acrylic.

The computer station wall under the balcony was hand painted in the two greys with color accents. Color was added to the computer desk tops as well. Supplied transfers were used for a couple of large wall comuter monitors/trackers.

To highlight the grey used throughout, I decided to paint the designer chairs in hot colors of Orange, Violet, Blue and Green. A Gloss Varnish was added to the floors.

Painting the little 1/2" high figures was made much easier by applying a push pin into their base.

A little medical tape held the glued building walls together while drying.

The open roof trusses were added. No 'plastic glass' was supplied - I presume so one can see all the interior. I find that unless a model is covered, dust plays havoc, so I corner glued a sheet of clear thin styrene/plastic over. I can still see the interior details.

I used the 'no-more-nails adhesive' to glue the command center to the base.

I spray finished the frame moulding in a Metallic Gunmetal Silver. This model could also be mounted on a wall.

There is no sign, or information supplied with the model - as to what the building was for, and why it is at a different scale (???). So, I made a Command Center building identification sign using CorelDraw software for the building's front side, and I put my name sign on the building's back side. I printed them on photo paper, which I then mounted to a thin styrene. I clear coat sealed them, after gluing them to the building walls.

I wasn't sure how this one was going to look/turn-out; but I am quite happy with the result, and I had the experience of learning about the TV series "Space:1999". Hope you've enjoyed it also!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.59

2009-06-29T20:06:00.015-07:00

When the weather is hot ...the modeling is cold!

Yes, it's summertime; and in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, Canada where I live it is hot. I always will call Hawaii 'Paradise No.1' after living there for 13 years ...but this valley is definitely 'No.2'. The mountains, valleys and lake views are gorgeous. The orchards and vineyards are green, and the deep red cherries are ripening.

Mornings are typically spent buying groceries, picking up needed supplies, banking, the post office, inside household chores, and outside gardening etc.

Also we have two very playful, and 'dying for exercise', one year old Labrador Retrievers who in the early afternoon anxiously await a trip to the local dog park, or the dog beach.

Well, who has time for modeling in the summer?

I figured, if I can make time for a TV show, to surf the web etc., then I can squeeze a little time for my hobby and art passion.

I mentioned in my Blog No.51 and No.53 that I had completed the renovation of a small lower patio area, with no view, into a cozy little hobby shop room with a few tools, and a homemade spray booth for spraying scale models. Well, I was anxious to try the spray booth, so I've been busy priming and base painting a few unpainted models that have been sitting for a while. It works great with most of the paint fumes exiting to the outside.

The above photo shows some of the Scopedog figures that I am in the process of priming and base painting, along with many other small models. In Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.36 I blogged in detail about Votoms Scopedogs.

******

In the next couple of blogs I will detail my base creation and the detail painting of AMT Ertl's #30067 Alpha Moonbase from Space 1999, Star War's Battle of Hoth Diorama, and Aurora's Godzilla and Rodan models.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.58

2009-06-11T11:16:00.025-07:00

DEVILMAN - Japanese Manga

In my collection of Japanese figures and models, I have an unusual and rare complete set of Devilman Checkmate Chess Set pieces by Fewture. These 4" approximate, highly detailed figures are chess set figure characters from Devilman. Each Devilman chess piece character package/card also came with a chess piece pawn. Images of this complete set below:

I'm not really into devil type characters; but as I had all of the unique, and highly detailed, mint on card (mocs), 16 figures with the Pawns ...I decided to make a custom chess board. Before I share the making of my Chess Board for the above set, I will give you a little knowledge I picked up on this 'Devilman' Manga:

Devilman is a Japanese manga series written and illustrated by Go Nagi which originally started as an anime adaptation of the concept of Nagai's previous manga series, Mao Dante. A 39-episode anime TV series was developed by Toei in 1972 and Nagai began Devilman as a manga in Kodansha's Shonen Magazine, barely a month before the TV series started. The series has since spawned numerous other anime, manga and films.

*for more information please see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devilman

Since Devilman's creation, many types of character figures have been produced by different manufacturers. Here is a link to some figures: http://www.devilworld.org/collection.html

A selection of figures also below:

Creating & Producing My Custom Devilman Chess Set Board:

I do not play chess! When I think of a chessboard, I think of inlaid woods,textured marbles and ivory figures. The above Devilman figures certainly are not the norm. Their are many custom character chess boards out there. I've seen Star Wars and Aliens theme chess sets. So, how was I going to customize mine? ...mmm!

1. I checked on chess board standard sizes and what size board squares would fit my figures. I decided on 2.250 (2 1/4") (5.7 centimeters). A chess board is 8 squares x 8 squares - total 64 squares. I determined I needed 3/16" groove between my squares and all around.

2. I cut a sheet of good both sides 1/2" thick plywood for the board base, sanding it smooth.

3. I mitred a flat 3/16"thick by 3/4" high wood trim to the plywood's edge all around (flush to the ply base). I used wood Carpenter Glue and recessed finishing nails to secure. I sanded the top edge, rounding it a little. The chess board is now 20 1/2" square / 52.1 centimeters.

4. I was considering using a marble or ceramic tile, but for ease of cutting and customability, I chose two different textured colors of self-sticking 12"x12" floor tiles which are about 1/8" thick.

5. One of the tiles was a light beige textured pattern and the other - similar, but medium browns in color.

6. With a sharp bladed matte cutter and a good steel rule I cut out all the 2 1/4" squares. 32 of the light textured tile and 32 of the dark textured tile. The cut tiles shown below:

7. With a ruler and t-square, I penciled out all the squares and spaces on the plywood for positioning the tile squares.

8. I peeled the paper backing of the self-stick tiles and positioned them. With a cloth over, I hammered gently (rubber mallet) the tiles on firmly, checking that they did not shift.

9. At this point I began customizing. It is possible that the self-stick tiles could lift up in the future. The 3/16" groove/channel between the tiles will be custom grouted - similar to grouting an actual ceramic floor tile. This will hold the tiles in place.

10. Custom grouting: I did not want my grout mix to stain the tiles, so I masked all the tiles in one linear direction and then applied the grout mix with a metal palette knife flush with the top of the tiles. After a couple of days of drying I repeated the process in the other linear direction. After all grout was applied I removed the masking tape, cleaning up any tile edges and any irregularities in the setting of the mix.

My grout mix:

I have a large container of pure, sanitized, very fine, black sand. I purchased this from a Texas hobby/craft store several years ago. It may have been a Ben Franklin store, or one similar. I use this product quite often, in a variety of ways - mixing it with acrylic for textural effects.

For my grout I mixed this sand with 50% Liquitex Matte Varnish and 50% Black Matte Acrylic Paint.

11. The chess board's theme of this horror manga "Devilman" seemed to require the use of red. I wanted to show the 'good vs evil', so I decided to split the chess boards sides with the use of the "red" (evil/anxiety) plus another color. I chose the complimentary of red - "green" (good/calm).

I created this by applying a wash of bright red mixed with Liquetex Matte Varnish with a large 2" flat headed brush in random direction and with various applied brush weights. I made sure when brushing that the original tile color and texture showed through. That is why I mix the acrylic wash with the clear matte varnish (translucent). When dry, I covered the red side and repeated the process with a wash of bright green mixed with Liquetex Matte Varnish.

12. On further observation and decision, I took a brush of pure red paint and flicked it, creating blood like blobs of spatter in a few directions. I smudged some with my fingers also. I let the spatter go on the red and green tiles as well as the grouting and the boards frame.

13. My chess board is almost there! After a good week of drying I applied 2 coats of liquid Flecto Varathane Semi-Gloss Clear Finish over everything gently with a wide soft brush to seal and protect all. Images below:

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.57

2009-05-12T19:34:00.011-07:00

Building an Exterior Sunroom

The beginning: Around September 20th, 2008 I began constructing our exterior enclosed sunroom with help from various local tradesmen; after many months of planning, soil test confirmation and structural engineered drawings (required by local permits). I have shared this on-going process in some of my past blogs.

The middle: This has been a large project, which included refacing an existing linear deck, enclosing a lower patio area, and building the sunroom out over a very sloped grade. The sloped backyard was fully regraded and built up with retaining walls before construction of the sunroom in early 2008.

The end: I'm glad to say our sunroom is now finished and ready for use. It will be used as a place to relax, have meals, and talk stories with friends etc. ...without the worry of stink bugs, wasps, and other flying creatures adding topping to our burgers :>0

I also may set up an easel and paint a few small paintings in this space.

I have had fun recording the sunroom's construction since September, 2008. I finished the interior of the sunroom myself, installed the screens and doors and did all the caulking and painting; but most of the construction would have not happened without the very polite and friendly excellent local tradesmen and women who put up with me directing them (thanks guys and gals!) :>).

Please enjoy the slideshow of the construction!

Trades used:
Soil Engineer
Structural Engineer
Landscaper - Grading, Planting, Rock Walls & Steps
Vinyl Deck Company - Resurface of Existing Deck, New Railings
Building Framer - Deck, Walls, Engineered Roof Truss fabrication
Roofer - Shingled roof
Siding installer - Vinyl Siding, Cement Board Siding, Aluminum Soffits & Gutters
Plumber - Water and Gas Lines
Painter - Spraying of open ceiling truss
Electrician - all electrical needs for sunroom, ceiling fan installation
Window Manufacturer - Screen window frames
Myself - Screen doors, Window screen frame stop mouldings, interior wall paneling, interior and exterior wall caulking and painting, finishing details, steps, floor clear weather finish

YES! May 14,'09 received Occupancy Permit.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.56

2009-05-09T14:58:00.005-07:00

More Bicycles ...Very Cool Design:
Velocipedes by Jonathan Fegan

VELOCIPEDES (FINAL) from Jonathan Fegan on Vimeo.

Montana Transit Authority

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.55

2009-04-17T16:40:00.008-07:00

I thought I would share an article "Artists At Risk" that my daughter sent me.

It's about health problems associated with exposure to chemicals in various artist materials.

Personally I certainly have used a variety of woodwork, photography, artist and scale modeling supplies over the last 50 years. I'm usually (but not always) pretty careful and I do read labels, I've also always used acrylic rather than oil based paints over the years ...but I have, and still, suffer from 'doctor unsolved' skin rashes, itching, and burning as well as swollen joints.

Artists At Risk
Written by: Kim Sterling
(Article posted in: Enlighten Your Load )

Artists are particularly vulnerable to illnesses caused by the toxic substances contained in the mediums art-supplies they work with. Rheumatoid arthritis, scleroderma, leukemia and bladder cancers are all too often the result of working long hours with highly toxic materials without the protective gear other industries would provide its workers. The artist often works alone, focused on their work, oblivious of the danger he or she is operating under.

Artists are at particular risk of developing health problems associated with exposure to chemicals for several reasons:

Artists frequently get little or no training in the hazards of their materials and processes. As a result, artists are often unaware that the materials they use contain toxic ingredients, including those that are not permitted in other types of consumer products. For instance, lead has been banned from wall paint but is still used in artist paints and inks.

* Artists often do not take precautions to protect themselves from the hazards associated with the materials they use, and in many cases they cannot afford expensive safety equipment. While a chemist using exactly the same substances would protect themselves with goggles, gloves, fume hoods and other safety equipment, artists will often not only fail to take these precautions, but also partake in activities that actually increase their exposure to harmful substances, e.g., eating and drinking in the studio or holding their brush in their mouths.

* Artists often have much longer and more frequent exposure to harmful chemicals than the average person because they frequently work with hazardous materials, often for extended hours.

* Artists often work and live in the same place, and the toxic substances used in the studio can spread throughout the home leading to constant exposure from which the body does not get a break.

The medium the artist works most with will determine the level of chemical exposure and the potential for risk:
Oil, acrylic and watercolour paints, markers, pens, varnishes, inks contain solvents that may contain chemicals such as toluene and xylene which may irritate the skin, eyes and respiratory system, and damage the nervous system, liver and kidneys. Turpentine causes allergies to itself.

Pigments in paints may also contain heavy metals, PCBs or dioxins which are linked to cancer, arthritis, and Alzheimer’s.

Dyes used to for fabric, batik, & silk-screening may cause allergic reactions, asthma, cancer, and dermatitis.

Ceramic glazes used on pottery - some glazes contain lead, cadmium, chromium, nickel and other heavy metals which are highly toxic.

Resins and Acids vary from moderately toxic to highly toxic respiratory agents.

Alkalis used in cleaning solutions, paint removers, dye baths, ceramic glazes and photographic developing baths can be highly corrosive to the skin and eyes. Ingestion can cause severe damage to the digestive system. Inhalation may cause chemical pneumonia.

Sprays used in spray painting, air brushing, retouching photos, fixing drawings, application of glazes, enamels and adhesives may irritate the skin, eyes and respiratory system, and damage the nervous system, liver and kidneys. Sprays are particularly hazardous because solvent mist droplets can be inhaled deeply into the lungs.

Photo chemicals used in photography can cause skin diseases, respiratory diseases, allergic diseases, acute anaemia and reproductive system damage.

Preventatively, artists need to be aware of their exposure, use water-based supplies as often as possible, ensure their studio is well ventilated, and protect their skin from exposure. Specialized internal cleansing regimens will reinforce the immune system to purge active agents from the body and regular use of far-infrared saunas for durations of 60 minutes or longer will pull the stored chemicals and heavy metals out of their largest organ and chemical storage warehouse - the skin.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.54

2009-04-02T21:41:00.011-07:00

Lance Gives a Tour of Mellow Johnny's

I love Bicycle Design, so I thought I would share this video that I stumbled upon. Quite the store/shop! http://www.livestrong.com/video/5324-lance-gives-tour-mellow-johnnys/

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.53

2009-03-28T15:34:00.006-07:00

My Little Hobby Shop Room:

This blog is a continuation of Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.49 & 51. My little hobby room is almost done. I primed the walls and ceiling and then painted all a very pale light green. Trim and baseboard is white. Indoor-outdoor carpeting is a medium brown-beige.

View towards the exterior door. Window is a slider.

Hobby Model Spray Booth:

The above photo is a hobby spray booth that I made last year. It has a stove hood vent in the top section. It vents to the outside using a typical dryer wall outlet. I will make a bench for it to rest on similar to others I made below, and then I will hook it all up. I will probably make a vinyl cover to enclose it when not in use.

Hobby Scroll Saw:

I also made the above bench table last year for my Dremel Scroll Saw.

Handy Drill Press:

Today I made the above bench table to hold my new Drill Press.

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Besides some regular power tools I have around home, such as a skill saw, drill etc., this little shop area and the above tools will be more than adequate for my hobby use and they can also be used for other home projects.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.52

2009-03-25T15:29:00.007-07:00

ZIM:

Some of the Invader Zim Figure Dioramas that I have customized and put together since this past Christmas season. I will discuss these soon in a future blog. Zim figures were produced by Palisades Toys (no longer in business) and by Hot Topic. Invader Zim was created by Jhonen Vasquez.

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My computer:

I just set up this room, the wall displays, posters, and a computer station. This is where I write my blog. I use this room also at the moment to hold my collection of approximately 3500 soda cans which I have collected and have been given to me over the last 30 plus years.

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Pepsi Logo:

And talking about soda cans ...have you seen the new Pepsi logo? I saw some prototypes on a Flickr photo site a while ago. Personally, I do not like the logo design or the 70's typefaces. Nothing new or exciting here. To me, it looks like a Japanese sun hovering over a blue whale! Whoops ...sorry Japan. I do love most things Japanese; but not the killing of whales! Let me know what you think about the new Pepsi design?

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Whale Season:

And mentioning whales. I thought you would like this photo of a leaping Humpback Whale that my wife photographed while on a catamaran off the north shore coast of Oahu, Hawaiian Islands in February. The beach in the background is approximately where they shoot some of the Lost TV series beach scenes.

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Cock-a-doodle-doo:

Someone threw out this cast white metal garden Rooster a couple of years ago. I rescued it, and I just got around to hand painting it. I am going to install it on the roof cupola peak of my new sunroom.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.51

2009-03-24T20:15:00.004-07:00

A February-March 2009 Project:

Near the end of my Blurp No.49, I mentioned that I was busy insulating and finishing the enclosure of my lower patio area. This open lower patio had no view due to a sloped retaining wall, and was now shaded by my above new sunroom (shown below) ...a photo was also shown in Blurp No.49.

I decided to design this area as a small hobby shop for spraying models, and for my drill press and scroll saw hobby work. It is not heated, but I insulated it well for use during most of our Canadian year. The room is about 7'x12'. I just put up the drywall sheeting, and it is now above freezing so I applied the seam mud over the last weekend. It is now beginning to look like a room.

I also installed raised interlocking floor panels over the existing original concrete patio slab. After one more light sanding of the walls and ceiling tomorrow, I am ready to paint all. I picked up some wall primer and a very light green (almost white) to finish the walls and ceiling.

I also installed a vent outlet for my hobby spray booth and installed a couple of cupboards. One shelf-cupboard (shown above) is for holding my acrylic spray cans used for model priming and base paint coats.

When all the painting is complete, I will install flooring, hook up the electrical and ceiling fixtures and move my equipment in.

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In April I will be very busy finishing the interior of the new sunroom (shown below).

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.50

2009-03-15T15:53:00.007-07:00

Unique Model Dioramas:

Eastern European countries produce some great models.

I purchased some Zvezda Medieval Castle Models, parts and figures a few years ago.

I assembled them last year, and I am hoping to schedule time to finish painting and detailing them soon. I have coated them in a dark-medium gray and dry brushed them with a lighter tone of gray so far. Although they are still unfinished, they are looking great. I mentioned these in my previous blog blurp no.12.

Four exceptional diorama links:

1) I just stumbled onto another retail modeler from the Ukraine. If you are into creating dioramas. They have a nice selection of themed figures and buildings to compliment your jeep and/or tank models. The left column of their website contains a gallery page of their model items and accessories. What I really liked was their detailed assembly guide page and a painting guide page listed in the left column of the main menu. The instructions are illustrated with step-by-step photos showing the painting and texture detail process for completing a very realistic building diorama. http://www.miniart-models.com/

2) Another very interesting diorama modeler link with nice building finishing photo details at http://public.fotki.com/DaveInTheHat/davetown/

I found the above link through my Yahoo Linka Molds Members group site.

3) Linka World is a must site to visit if you're into creating scale building models and dioramas using form molds.

4) Another of the best for molds is Hirst Arts Fantasy Architecture http://www.hirstarts.com/
Bruce Hirst has designed many molds for building castles and other fantasy creations including sci-fi. His site comes with exceptional illustrations and instructions, mold-making, casting, building and painting how-to sheets, tips n' tricks, videos, a gallery of creations etc.

I think you'll have fun visiting these sites ...there is a lot to get your creative juices flowing!

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.49

2009-02-22T11:09:00.014-08:00

Work Table

I have been very busy setting up my fine art painting and scale modeling studio rooms since Christmas.

Art & Modeling Room

Models, Fine Art, Posters, Matte Cutter

Modeling & Design Reference

I am also in the process of insulating a lower patio area to be used as a small shop area for spraying models and scroll cutting parts. The electrical is now in, and the insulation is done. Drywall and a sub-floor will be added within the next couple of weeks.

I will also be completing my exterior sunroom that requires interior finishing work, and interior and exterior painting. Once the weather warms up a little (it's still cool - around freezing), I expect to be very busy from March til June on these home projects. I will not have a lot of time for new art, or modeling, this Spring.

When time has allowed I have been putting together, or finishing, a couple of models and some toy characters in a diorama setting. I will blurp about them in the next few blogs.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.48

2009-02-03T14:56:00.005-08:00

Cool and Helpful Ways to Surf with Google:

http://www.dailybits.com/6-better-ways-to-search-google/

We all need help in getting rid of the conglomeration of unwanted surfing results.

Surf - Design Planet Blurp No.47

2009-01-16T07:06:00.007-08:00

I found this interesting 'words layout creation' on The BrandBuilder's Blog. Just enter your own text at www.wordle.net