Survival & Outdoor Tips

Edible Insects Continued - Section 2 of 2

2011-08-31T20:29:00.000-05:00

Common Texas Venomous Insects

2011-08-31T20:28:00.000-05:00

Common Texas Snakes

2011-08-31T20:24:00.004-05:00

Although snakes can be found all over Texas, there are only four types that are actually Venomous. Rattlesnakes, Coral snakes, Copperheads, and Water Moccasins (also called Cottonmouths) can all be found throughout Texas and are not only dangerous, but can even be deadly. Therefore it is extremely important to familiarize yourself and others with their appearance, colors, and distinguishable features. Rattlesnakes, Copperheads, and Water Moccasins are all species designated within the Pit Viper group. That means that they all share noticeable features despite being different species. Coral Snakes are not part of the Pit Viper group and their heads are not much noticeably larger than the rest of their body. Coral Snakes also have round eyes and fixed position fangs that are much shorter than Pit Vipers. They are commonly found with fangs about 1/8” long which are just a fraction of the length of most Pit Vipers. There are many other Non-Venomous snakes commonly found within Texas as well but offer little to no serious harm. However many will still bite if threatened which can cause a serious infection if not properly taken care of.

Rattlesnake – There are 10 different types of Rattlesnakes commonly found in Texas and have a wide range of color variation as well as size. They can range anywhere from the largest species called the Large Timber Rattler to the smallest species, the Pigmy Rattler. The other species include the Prairie Rattler, Massasauga, Western Diamondback, Mojave, Black-Tail Rattler, Banded Rock Rattler, and the Mottled Rock Rattler. Regardless of the Rattlesnake species, they all have some common characteristics. The Rattlesnakes trademark feature is the rattle that is located at the end of its tail. Being of the Pit Viper Group which is often referred to as the arrow heads, they have a large triangle shaped head that is noticeably larger than their neck region. They also tend to have elliptical eyes, heat sensing pits located on their head, and have large retractable fangs located on their upper jaw.

Copperhead – There are 3 different types of Copperheads that are found in Texas. The Southern Copperhead and Broadband Copperhead are the most common and can be found all over Texas. The Trans-Pecos Copperhead is the rarest and is typically only found around the Big Bend and surrounding areas. Copperheads also have a large triangle shaped head that is noticeably larger than their neck region. They have elliptical eyes, heat sensing pits located on their head, and have large retractable fangs located on their upper jaw. They are commonly recognized by their copper coloring that covers both their body and head. Their body is marked by shades of darker brown bands that are commonly in a slight half hourglass shape.

Water Moccasin (Cottonmouth) – Water Moccasins are commonly known for their aggression and are one of the few snakes that will actually approach or confront someone when startled. They are also the only Venomous water snake found within North America. They are a semi-aquatic species so they are most commonly found around a large body of water. Water Moccasins also have a large triangle shaped head that is noticeably larger than their neck region. They have elliptical eyes, heat sensing pits located on their head, and have large retractable fangs located on their upper jaw. They are usually either dark brown, black, or dark olive in color depending on region. Their underside is also noticeably lighter than their top color and is often blotchy with dark regions. Water Moccasins are often referred to as Cottonmouths because they are regularly seen with their mouths open which in turn exposes the white inner layer of their mouth.

Coral Snake – Coral Snakes are often found much smaller than any of the three species discussed above and are not part of the Pit Viper group. Most adults are found to grow about 27 inches long. The Coral Snake that is found in Texas is the only species of Coral that has cross bands of Yellow, Black, and Red that the Yellow and Red bands touch. Hence the common saying, “Red against Yellow kills a fellow, Red against Black, poison lack”. They are often confused with Milk Snakes, King Snakes, or Scarlet Snakes which have the same color combination but do not share the same color band sequence. Their head is also relatively the same width as the remainder of their body unlike Pit Vipers. Coral Snakes also have much smaller fangs than those species found within the Pit Viper group and often do not have bites with enough penetration to inject full dosages of Venom. Many people have reported being bitten or struck by a Coral Snake but did not show any signs of Venom within their blood stream or any of the symptoms commonly reported from being bitten by a Venomous snake.

Click Here For a Guide To : Snakebite 101 - A List of Do's and Don'ts That Could Save Your Life http://texassurvivaltraining.blogspot.com/2011/07/snake-bite-101-list-of-dos-donts-that.html

Common Texas Spiders

2011-08-31T20:22:00.003-05:00

According to the Texas A&M University, there are nearly 1000 different species of spiders located throughout the state of Texas. Texas heat and high humidity create a perfect living condition and environment for many species of spiders to effectively prosper. Fortunately, there are only two species whose venomous bites represent a significant harm to most Texans and that is the Black Widow and Brown Recluse. They are the only two species that experts consider to have “medically significant” bites that require professional attention and proper care. Most other species only offer very minor problems for bite victims or are harmless, although some people are dangerously allergic to bites much like a wasp, bee, ant, etc… so care still needs to be taken. Even though some spiders may be considered dangerous, spiders overall are helpful in keeping insect populations in check and are a positive addition to our surroundings.

Symptoms Of Venomous Spider Bites: The severity depends on many factors that include the amount of venom that was injected, the area the bite took place, the victims current heart conditions and problems, the victims age, the depth of the bite, and many other factors. Regardless, once you have been bitten it is strongly recommend to try and identify the species of spider. If there is any way possible to safely trap the spider in a manner that will allow you to monitor it then it is strongly recommended to do so. Avoid simply squishing the spider as markings, body features, size, colors, etc… will be much harder to identify to those trying to assist you. At that time you can use this guide to help identify the species, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers at 1-800-222-1222 which will help identify the species, Texas Poison Center Network at 1-800-764-7661, your family physician, or proceed to a Hospital as soon as possible as symptoms and sever illness can develop quickly. Many times, the actual bite of a spider may feel much like a pin prick and go initially undetected but later develop into an aching wound as more symptoms continue to develop.

First Aid: First aid for a spider bite should include washing the bite area with soap and water to help avoid infection. Many spiders eat insects that have been known to carry diseases such as mosquitoes, flies, etc… and just like any open bite wound, it could become infected. Unlike snake bites, an ice pack, ammonia, or alcohol may be applied directly to the bite area to help alleviate pain as well as reduce the chance of swelling. Proceed as soon as possible to a Hospital to receive proper care. If you are far from a source of professional care then it may be helpful to use a snake/insect bite kit such as the Sawyer Extractor to help remove as much venom as possible. The sooner the device is used, the better as the venom will quickly begin to be mixed in and absorbed in your blood stream.

Brown Recluse – The five species of Brown Recluse spiders found in Texas vary in size but are most commonly found with a body between ¼” to ¾”. Their legs are typically twice as long as their body and are very thin and wire like. The spider itself is light golden brown in color however they can be found in several other shades of brown or even a yellowish orange color depending on region and location. Regardless of the shade, they all have the same shape that is located on the head region where their legs connect to their body. The shape to most people resembles a guitar, fiddle, or violin that has its neck pointed towards the rear of the spider and is dark brown to black in color. The brown recluse is also one of the few spiders that have 6 eyes instead of 8. A bite from a brown recluse can cause severe tissue loss and necrosis. Bite victims should seek medical care immediately as their condition will rapidly worsen. Most Victims experienced one or more of the following symptoms after being bitten; nausea, vomiting, overall weakness, restlessness, fever, chills, necrosis at the area of the bite wound, and a variety of lesion colors developing at the bite wound such as white, blue, and red. There is no effective antivenom currently available for a Brown Recluse bite however there are still several methods of treatment available to help victims properly recover. Often cortisone type hormones are administered, pain relievers are prescribed, and muscle relaxants are used to help treat spider bite victims. It is common for a Brown Recluse bite wound to take anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks to fully heal and often leaves a noticeable scar. They can be commonly found throughout other states in the U.S. but are predominantly found in the southern regions. They can be found in dozens of different locations among the outdoors including debris piles, high foliage or cover, and other shady or dark areas. They spin light grey colored webs that they often hide beneath during the day and are most active at night. Some species do not spin any type of web at all.

Black Widow – There are several different species of Widows found in Texas including the Southern Black Widow, the Brown Widow, the Northern Black Widow, and the Western Black widow. Black Widows also vary in size but most adult spiders usually have bodies roughly about ½” long that is globular in nature and their two front legs are noticeably longer than the other 6 legs. Females are usually a shiny jet black while males tend to look slightly more flat black or brown in color and are smaller in size. Some males and juveniles even have advanced color markings on their rear section that consists of red, white, and orange on their back and sides. Although most people are familiar with the Red Hourglass shape commonly found on black Widows, they can also be found in different shapes and slightly different colors. Some Black Widows may only have a small circle or what appears to be a small square. The colors can also range from a yellowish orange hue to a brilliant red and is located on the underbelly of the spider. The bite from a Black Widow is extremely serious and can even result in death especially if the victim is an adolescent or elderly. Bite victims should seek medical care immediately as their condition will rapidly worsen but fortunately only about 5% of victims that are bitten by a Black Widow actually die from it. Because it is a neurotoxin, even a very small amount of venom can suddenly cause illness as it begins to attack the nervous system. It has been reported that the venom itself is even 15 times stronger than some species of rattlesnake. Many victims immediately experienced difficulty in breathing and several reported quickly losing consciousness. Most victims experience one or more of the following symptoms after being bitten; convulsions, uncontrollable perspiration, nausea, vomiting, headache, abdominal pain and cramping, leg cramps, high blood pressure, abdominal rigidity, tremors, muscle soreness, fatigue, hypertension, lesion at the site of the bite, unconsciousness, and pyrexia. Although most bite victims report excruciating pain around the bite wound within the first 1 to 3 hours, some have been bitten and experienced little to no pain at all or even in some rare cases the bite was unnoticed. It is extremely important to proceed as soon as possible to a hospital for treatment especially if you have an existing heart condition or problems as the venom attacks the nervous system. Anti-venom is available to counter the effects of a Black Widow bite but is rarely used as it has tendencies to insight an anaphylactic reaction however proper care needs to be sought as soon as possible. Black Widows are also found in other states but a large percentage of them reside in Texas. They are commonly found among brush piles, wood piles, rubble piles, under large rocks, in hollow openings, and other areas that are somewhat shaded.

Hobo Spider – Hobo Spiders are brown and a typical adult body will measure between 1/3” to 2/3”. Their legs are typically about twice as long as their body and their body contain several chevron shaped marking. Their legs are all relatively the same length and male spiders tend to have two large palpi which are parts of the mouth that resemble miniature boxing gloves. Female Hobo Spiders typically have more round shaped abdomens rather than the males whose abdomens usually have an oval shape. Most bites that are produced by a Hobo spider are initially painless but will quickly turn the tissue surrounding the bite area red and within about 24 hours the bite will turn into a blister. The blister then shortly after will eventually bust open and create an oozing ulceration which could easily get infected. The most common reported symptom of a Hobo Spider bite is severe headaches. However many bite victims also report nausea, fatigue, overall weakness, vision impairment, and even temporary short term memory loss. They are usually found somewhere at or near ground level or below, they very seldom will scale a vertical surface any higher than a couple of feet from the ground. They are however pretty rare to most areas in Texas but several bites have been documented.

Funnel Web Grass Spider – This is probably one of the most commonly seen spiders and many people often mistake them for a Brown Recluse or Wolf Spider. A typical adult Funnel Web Grass spider body is usually around ½” to ¾” long. Depending on their habitat they are typically brownish or slightly gray in color with light and dark colored stripes that run from their mouth to the back of their head. Their legs are also roughly twice as long as their body and have fairly long spinnerets. Although they are still poisonous, their bite is of little risk to humans however they can still be painful. As the name suggest, they are most commonly found among tall grasses, brush, shrubs, and other forms of heavy ground cover. Much like the Hobo spider, they are rarely seen at height levels above the grounds surface level. They construct a web that resembles a sheet among the grasses and use the web as cover when they are forced to retreat and take shelter.

Tarantulas – Several species of Tarantulas are also found throughout Texas. Tarantulas vary dramatically in size but are significantly larger than almost any other species of spider so they are easy to identify. Females are almost always larger than males in almost every species of Tarantula and a typical female has an abdomen about the size of a quarter or larger. They are also notably hairy and don’t really resemble any other species of spider. Their fangs are also very large much like the Mouse Spider discussed below and their legs are also much thicker than smaller breeds of spiders. Because of their exceptionally long fangs, they can cause a much larger bite wound than other species however victims usually only reported localized pain at the bite wound and no other significant symptoms. Much like a snakebite, they can trigger certain allergic reactions in some victims and their hair alone can also incite skin irritation for some people. They are commonly found under heavily shaded areas during the day and become much more active at night as they are primarily nocturnal. They are one of the few species of spiders that are also deemed edible and actually taste good especially when roasted over a flame.

Mouse Spider – Some adult Mouse Spiders can have bodies as long as a 1 ½” long and their legs are typically about as long as their body. Male and Female Mouse spiders have noticeably elongated fangs and considerably thicker legs than any of the other spiders previously listed. The Females are all a black or very dark brown color. Males are sometimes known to have a reddish colored head region. Mouse Spiders are known for their painful bites due to their hard fangs and deep biting capabilities. Their venom is also very powerful and can be especially dangerous to young children or the elderly. It produces a severe illness to its bite victims and should be taken care of immediately. Females tend to be non-aggressive but Males can turn aggressive easily if provoked. Mouse Spiders are ground dwellers and can burrow up to 3 feet or more below the surface. Males are often seen during the middle of the day wondering in search of females, especially after a heavy rain. Mouse Spiders are rarely found in Texas but they are worth noting as they do have a more dangerous bite than most other species.

Black House Spider – Adults usually grow to have a body of about ½” long with the rear six legs about the same length of their body. However, the first two legs are noticeably longer. They are usually either a very dark brown or black in color and appear to almost have a velvet glossy textured appearance. A Black House Spider bite is very painful but not lethal. Most bite victims report symptoms of nausea, headache, vomiting, heavy perspiration, muscle soreness, fatigue, and severe pain around the bite wound area. They spin a very lacy web and prefer dry locations in secluded areas. They are often found at night near high light areas as their primary food source is moths, mosquitoes, flies, and other insects.

Wolf Spider – Adults can grown to have anywhere from ½” to over 1” body and their legs are slightly longer than their bodies. They are often mistaken for the much more dangerous Brown Recluse but differ in looks and are hairy unlike the Brown Recluse. They have a very unique color scheme that consists of gray, brown, and black all laid out in a design throughout their back. Females are sometimes easy to identify as they often carry their young on their back. A Wolf Spider bite is very painful but not lethal. They are typically not aggressive but will even bite multiple times if provoked hence the name Wolf Spider. Their eyes are also highly reflective and can often be seen with a flashlight, headlight, or even heavy moonlight. Most bite victims only report minor symptoms and the intense pain at the area surrounding the bite wound. Wolf Spiders are also ground dwellers and have areas set up to use as retreats in the event they are provoked. Their burrows are sometimes found with webbed doors covers or leaves used to seal their entrance. They are considerably fast given their size and are mostly nocturnal however they can sometimes still be found during the day. They are one of the most commonly found species of spider found in Texas and it is said that an average backyard can have anywhere from hundreds to even thousands of Wolf Spiders.

There are hundreds of other species of spiders found in Texas however they offer little to no real threat to humans unless you happen to be highly allergic. It is always a good rule of thumb to avoid spiders all together but be sure to familiarize yourself with the different species of Widows and Brown Recluses as they are the only real threats that strongly need to be avoided or in the case of an actual bite, proper professional health care needs to be given immediately.

How To Use Your Watch & The Sun As A Compass

2011-07-21T10:02:00.002-05:00

If you ever find yourself stranded somewhere with no compass for direction, then look no further than your wrist. If you happen to be wearing an analog watch then there is an easy way you can find your direction in a matter of minutes. To perform this trick you will have to make sure that your watch is set on standard time. This trick will not work if you are currently in a time zone whose time has been adjusted for Daylight Savings Time. Daylight Savings Time is an adjustment made in the summer season to adjust the actual time an hour ahead, therefore you will need to set your watch backwards one hour if this is the case. This method is also best to be used sometime between 7:00 A.M. and 5:00 P.M. in order to ensure proper accuracy. First lay your watch on a smooth flat surface and point the hour hand directly towards the sun. If the weather is heavy overcast and makes it difficult to find the sun, then use the shadows to help triangulate it. The sun will point directly opposite to the direction the shadow falls. A quick look around or a small stick stuck in the ground will help you pinpoint the suns exact coordinates. Then find the midpoint located right between the hour hand pointing towards the sun and the 12 o-clock marking on the watch. This location will represent your South heading. If you draw an imaginary line from the middle of the watch out to this midpoint then that will be your line or orientation. The end of the line in the center of the watch will point North and the end of the line on the outer edge of the watch will point South. This will vary however according to which hemisphere you are currently positioned in. The line will point South if you are located within the Northern Hemisphere and it will point North if you are within the Southern Hemisphere. The picture located above shows the correct directions for someone located within the United States which resides in the Northern Hemisphere. The opposite directions would be labeled for example if you were attempting this while in South America which is located in the Southern Hemisphere. Once the directions are noted, you can draw a quick picture in the sand or dirt to help make a more permanent mark or use sticks and stones to mock up a temporary compass.

If you have a digital watch, clock on your phone, clock on a vehicle, or any other device that has the current time, then you can still use that device to help locate your North and South poles. Simply draw a clock on a piece of paper, cardboard, clothing, etc… or anything else that can be moved and turned around for orientation. Use something round to draw and trace the clocks outline or draw a circle to the best of your ability. Then make your 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock markings followed by the additional hour markings. Try to keep the clock picture as accurate as possible with the same amount of space between all hour markings. Next, take the time that is displayed by your digital clock and transpose that time to your clock that you have drawn. Now point the hour hand towards the sun and use the same directions listed above to complete the rest of the process.

Snake Bite 101 – A List Of Do’s & Don’ts That Could Save Your Life

2011-07-08T10:43:00.007-05:00

Nearly 50,000 people are estimated to be bitten by snakes each year within the United States, 9,000 of which are bitten by a poisonous species of snake. Fortunately though, with today’s technology and the availability of Anti-Venom, in most cases you have less than a 0.5% chance of actually dying from a snakebite within the United States. Most experts estimate that over 5 Million people around the world are bitten by snakes each year but only about 125,000 people actually die from them. When it comes to the snakes themselves, only about 15% of the over 4000 species of snakes in the world are actually poisonous. Now with that being said, most poisonous snakebites are extremely painful and take several days or even weeks for someone to recover from. Keep in mind that small children are even more susceptible to death or serious injury from snakebites due to their smaller size and higher venom per body pound concentration. The Venom itself in many species of snakes is strong enough to cause nausea and vomiting soon after being bitten.

Most snake bite victims also experience one or more of the following symptoms: severe localized pain at the site of the bite, bleeding from the bite wound, low blood pressure, rapid heart rate, numbness, blurred or temporary loss of vision, dizziness, loss of motor functions or coordination, burning, convulsions, fever, difficulty breathing, difficulty speaking, excessive and uncontrollable sweating, overall weakness, skin discoloration, fainting, etc… Long story short, Snakebites are serious injuries and proper care needs to be performed as soon as possible. Even a bite from a Non-Poisonous snake needs to be properly taken care of as they can still cause serious infections or cause allergic reactions in some people. Even Non-Poisonous snakes often feed on birds, mice, rats, and other rodents that can often carry diseases that can then be transferred to a bite victim. So be sure to still seek Medical attention and it’s always a good rule of thumb to get a Tetanus shot if you have not received one within about 5 years.

If you ever find yourself snake bitten out in the wild then just remember the “DO’s” and “DON'TS” when it comes to treating yourself or others. Here’s a list of things to remember NOT TO DO:

DO NOT cut the wound and try sucking the venom out yourself.

DO NOT apply ice to the wound.

DO NOT put on a tourniquet.

DO NOT take any medication.

DO NOT take anything else orally by mouth.

DO NOT consume any alcohol.

DO NOT try to catch or kill the snake.

DO NOT drive yourself to the hospital if you are alone unless it is absolutely necessary.

DO NOT overexert yourself.

Here’s a list of things to remember to DO:

DO separate yourself or the victim from the snake to prevent additional bites.

DO call 911 as soon as possible.

DO call the Hospital in advance if at all possible to inform them of the snakebite so they can prepare the anti-venom.

DO call the National Poison Control Center if you are unfamiliar with the treatment of snakebites. They can be reached at 1-800-222-1222 and will walk you through step by step instructions for treating yourself or others.

DO use a snake bite kit if available when you’re located far from a Hospital. I would highly recommend the Sawyer Extractor brand as it requires no cutting and has high enough suction to actually remove the majority of the snake’s venom.

DO take a picture of the snake if possible or quickly draw yourself a note with colors, shapes, and markings. This will help doctors identify the snake to ensure that you get the correct Anti-Venom once treated at a Hospital.

DO remain calm and try to slow down your breathing by breathing in and out of your nose.

DO keep the wound below your heart level.

DO monitor your or the victims vital signs.

DO keep the portion of the body that was bitten immobilized and move it as little as possible.

DO wash the wound with soap and water if available.

DO lay the victim flat with their feet raised about 1 foot above their body if they go into shock.

DO remove any rings, necklaces, watches, ankle wraps, knee braces, or anything else that could be restrictive to proper blood flow.

DO loosely apply a bandage roughly 2 to 4 inches above the bite on the side closest to your heart if you are unable to seek specialized care within approximately 30 minutes. However, the bandage should be loose enough to be able to place 1 to 2 fingers underneath it. The idea here is to slow down the venom without significantly disrupting blood flow or cutting off blood flow all together. Be sure to check the bandage frequently to ensure it remains semi-loose as the limb may continue to swell and require the bandage be readjusted. DO NOT let the bandage become a tourniquet as swelling increases, at that point it’s better to have NO bandage then too tight of one.

DO be sure to notify Doctors or Nurses if you are allergic to Horses, as Anti-Venin is commonly prescribed for snakebites but is a serum derived from the antibodies found in the blood of Horses. If you are allergic to Horses, then you might still be able to receive the antidote but may require additional medication or alternative care as well, so BE SURE they know in advance.

*** The material(s) discussed within this guide could be DANGEROUS if not executed properly and precisely, so it is to be used at YOUR OWN RISK!***

A Helpful Way To Carry Duct Tape On The Trail

2011-07-08T09:55:00.001-05:00

We all know just how helpful and versatile Duct Tape is and how it can be a life saver out on the trail. It can be used for everything from shelter repair, splint making, shoe/boot repair, band aids, rope making, clothing repair, temporary cup making, trap making, trail marking, and much much more. However if you’re packing light and limited on space then sometimes it’s hard to justify carrying an entire roll of Duct Tape with you. Fortunately there’s a trick to not only carrying a large amount of Duct Tape but also insulating your thermos, coffee mug, or canteen and it couldn’t be easier to do. First clean the surface of which ever item you wish to wrap with soap and water or window cleaner to ensure that any dust, grease, dirt, and grime is removed so that it will provide a good adhesive surface for the Duct Tape to stick to. For this example we’ll say that we are wrapping a canteen. Next, wrap the duct tape around the canteen in a circular motion slowly working your way from top to bottom. The amount of Duct Tape to be used is strictly up to you but I would recommend somewhere between 5 to 10 feet. That should be plenty to use while you’re on the go out in the wilderness. By doing this, you not only eliminate the roll itself but you actually provide another layer of insulation to your canteen to help keep you liquids cooler or warmer longer. You can also wrap several other items as well to increase your overall capacity and split up the Duct Tape on multiple items in case you become separated from the majority of your gear or happen to lose it for some reason. Here are just a couple ideas of other items that can be wrapped: handles of knives, handles of a magnifying glass, water filters, bowls, foldable shovel handles, lighters/mini torches, flashlights, axe handles, sunscreen bottles, insect repellent bottles, etc…

How To Use Shadows & The Sun As A Compass To Find Your Direction

2011-07-06T10:36:00.001-05:00

If you’re not familiar with celestial navigation or if you’re trying to find your direction during the day, then the sun itself can be one of the most useful tools you never knew you had. The sun rises from the Eastern hemisphere and sets in the Western hemisphere. If you are within the Northern hemisphere then the sun will be due South at noon and if you are within the Southern hemisphere then it will be due North. The actual hemispheres themselves can be indicated by the direction a shadow moves. Shadows move counter clockwise in the Southern Hemisphere and clockwise in the Northern Hemisphere. Below are some of the most commonly used methods of using the sun and shadows to determine direction:

Setting Up For The Shadow Stick Method – First find a straight stick that is roughly about 3 feet long and about ½ to 1 ½ inches thick. Then locate a smooth area out in the sun that will not be affected by the shadows of other surrounding objects. I personally always try to locate a spot offering the highest elevation so that you have a great observation point to assign objects within your horizon a direction or angle of departure. Once a location is found, then drive the stick into the ground enough to ensure that it is secure and that it will not be affected by the wind or elements. If it is a rocky or sandy area, then you can drive the stick as far down as possible and then secure it with some type of cordage to help keep it upright and straight. It is critical that the stick remain in the same spot in order to provide accurate measurements. Also, try to position the stick as vertically level as possible. The easiest way to check is to make a quick homemade plumbing bob by tying a rock to some cordage and hanging it by hand close to the stick to compare them, adjust if needed. Now there are two main ways to use a shadow stick, so we will discuss both of them below.

Method A – In the morning sometime before 10 A.M., mark the spot that the tip of the sticks shadow meets the ground by either marking the soil or placing a rock on top of it. This marking will represent your West heading. Now using a piece of string or other cordage, measure the distance from this point to the base of the stick. Now use this same distance to draw an arch or circle around the stick. The shadow from the stick will start to shrink throughout the day close to noon and then begin to extend once again later in the afternoon. At some point in the afternoon the tip of the sticks shadow will intersect the arch you drew earlier. Mark this spot in the afternoon arch as your East heading. Now connect both marks and you will have your line of direction pointing from East to West. You can then draw your North and South lines perpendicular to the East and West line markings. It is also helpful to make a semi-permanent structure to depict your directions afterward if you are not departing right away so that a flash rain, snow, high winds, or any other of the elements do not disturb your findings.

Method B – This method is much quicker but is not quite as accurate. The setup is identical as Method A but only requires that you make two marks within approximately 15 minutes of each other. This method is best used before 10 A.M. and after 2 P.M.. Begin by making one mark where the tip of the sticks shadow meets the ground, this marking will represent your West heading. Then wait approximately 15 minutes and make another mark where the sticks shadow meets the ground, this marking will represent your East heading. Now connect the two marks for your East and West line of direction. You can then draw your North and South lines perpendicular to the East and West markings. Again, it is also helpful to make a semi-permanent structure to depict your directions afterward if you are not departing right away so that a flash rain, snow, high winds, or any other of the elements disturb your findings.

How To Build A Solar Still

2011-06-28T20:39:00.000-05:00

When water sources become scarce or you find yourself in a survival situation without the normal channels of water present like rivers, lakes, ponds, etc… then advanced water retrieval methods may become necessary. In most climates, water is actually abundant but is inaccessible through standard water collecting methods. So today we are going to discuss one of the most common advanced water collecting techniques called the Solar Still:

Solar Still – The concept of a solar still is relatively simple. The suns heat raises the temperature of the air contained within the solar still as well as the soil itself and produces water vapor that tries to escape by means of evaporation. When the water rises and meets the surface of the solar still, then it collects on the underside and runs down towards an impression and finally drips into a collection container. The first step involved in building a solar still is locating a spot that receives lots of sunlight and is preferably in a low spot within the land where the soil may contain more water from prior rain runoff. Then you’ll need to dig a hole that is approximately 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. Once the hole is dug, place a can, bottle, pan, canteen, or any other device that can be used to collect the water in the middle of the hole. Be sure to press it down firmly so that it will not tip over and use a small amount of soil to press up against the sides to help hold it into place. Now, cover the hole with a sheet of plastic or any other material that will seal the hole off but allow sunlight to pass through it. Place the material in a manner that slopes down towards the middle and creates a depression right above the water collector. Then place a small round stone in the middle of the sheet to create a water droplet point for your solar still. Now, use soil and/or rocks to anchor the side of the plastic sheet and seal off the interior. Try to keep the material tight so that it provides a flat smooth surface for the water to run down. Also, if any materials are available to construct a straw then it is extremely helpful to design a setup that allows you to drink from the collection container without disturbing the solar stills construction. But be sure to use grass or some other material to block the end of the straw to ensure that the solar still is kept airtight while the straw is not being used. Solar stills are especially effective within climates that see excessive heat during the days but experience cold temperatures during the night. Most solar stills of this size can produce approximately 20 ounces of water each day depending on climate. Solar stills can be used to turn all sorts of undrinkable water sources into clean drinkable water. Urine, salt water, stagnant water, contaminated water, etc… can all be poured within a reservoir created at the bottom of the solar still and turned into a viable water source. You can even cut up poisonous vegetation that contains significant amounts of water like several families of cactus and place them at the bottom of the still. The hazardous water contained within the poisonous vegetation will be forced out of the plant and then collected as safe drinkable water. To increase the availability and production of water, it may be necessary to build several solar stills.

How To Help Predict An Approaching Rain or Snow Storm

2011-06-25T10:04:00.004-05:00

This is a trick that has been passed down for hundreds of years and was even used heavily by some of the first major civilizations. After using it for several years myself, I can honestly say that it is very accurate as will most survival experts. The concept is very simple and all you have to do is monitor the look of the sun or the moon. Normally the sun and the moon will have clear and defined edges but if you happen to notice that there is a halo around either one of them then you can expect either rain or snow within 12 to 36 hours. The halo effect is caused by light that is being refracted through small ice crystals contained among cirrus clouds located high up in the Earth’s atmosphere. The presence of the halo indicates that a low pressure system is building and precipitation can be expected sometime in the near future. If you notice that the halo around the sun or the moon are not complete or broken to one side, then that means the storm is approaching from the broken side of the halo and that the timeline is getting even shorter.

Advanced Water Retrieval Methods

2011-06-24T09:47:00.003-05:00

When water sources become scarce or you find yourself in a survival situation without the normal channels of water present like rivers, lakes, ponds, etc… then advanced water retrieval methods may become necessary. In most climates, water is actually abundant but is inaccessible through standard water collecting methods. So today we are going to discuss some of the most common advanced water collecting techniques that involve condensation:

Condensation from Trees– Trees and other forms of vegetation can be a key source of water collection. Some of the most commonly founds trees in the world can collect water from water tables found 60 feet or more below the grounds surface. These trees can provide water from depths that you would never have the capability to dig by hand. The first step to collecting water from a tree source is to find a plastic sack, plastic bag, a plastic poncho, polyurethane tent, plastic liner, or any other similar material. For this example we’ll say we are using a traditional plastic bag. Next, locate a leafy branch on the tree that is within your reach and preferably receives a significant amount of sunlight. Now place the plastic bag around the leafy branch in a fashion that insures the opening of the bag is at the uppermost top of the branch and that one of the corners of the bag is hanging low and pointing towards the ground. So in this case the bag should appear to be sideways in a vertical up and down position. Now rap the opening or mouth of the bag with some type of cordage to seal it off. Sometimes it’s also helpful to blow a small amount of air into the plastic bag to make it expand properly and keep the vegetation from coming into contact with the sides of the plastic. This will also intern introduce more air trapped into the bag to even further help with the condensation process. If several sources of plastic or supplies are available, then it is helpful to make several suspended bags to further increase your water production capability. Depending on the size of the plastic material or bag used as well as climate, most condensation setups can yield 14 ounces of water or more per day.

Condensation from Vegetation – besides trees, all sorts of vegetation can also be used to create water by using the condensation method. The materials needed for this method are the same as those addressed above in the prior section. This method can be used in two fashions; you can either place the plastic material over a plant or collect uprooted vegetation and place it in the plastic bag. If you are placing the plastic over a plant then you want to position it as if you were building a tent around the plant and ensuring that the sides of the plastic don’t come into contact with any of the vegetation itself. You will also need to dig a small moat around the plant and secure the plastic using rocks, dirt, or other materials in a manner that will hold the plastic secure and create an impression that will collect the water. The concept here is that the water will be drawn to the sides of the bag and then run down into a reservoir created at the bottom. To hold the top of the plastic you can either use cordage to secure it from an adjacent limb, build a tripod from some small timber, or use a stick/stake drove into the ground within the plastic itself. If you are using a stick within the bag then be sure to find a material to be used as a pad between the stick and the plastic itself to prevent from tearing the material. It’s also helpful to grade the soil at an angle so that the handmade reservoir runs down hill and all the water collects in one designated spot. If you decide to place vegetation within the bag instead of placing it over a plant, then be sure to pull the vegetation up by its roots. The roots of a plant contain the majority of that plants water source so you will be conserving much more fluid than if you just simply cut or pluck the leaves off of a plant or collect only the grass leaves themselves. The roots are key to collecting a sufficient amount of water using this method. First collect rocks or stones to form a base at the bottom of the plastic bag. This will provide a platform that will allow the water to drip and flow better than just having the vegetation bundled together at the bottom of the bag. This setup will also require that the plastic stay tight and kept from coming into contact with the edges of the vegetation. A simple slope to one side can help the water run downhill and collect in a small handmade reservoir. If several sources of plastic or supplies are available, then it is helpful to make several setups to further increase your water production capability. Depending on the size of the plastic material or bag used as well as climate, most condensation setups of this type can yield 10 ounces of water or more per day.

How To Build An Emergency Shelter With A Tarp

2011-06-09T09:30:00.003-05:00

If you ever find yourself stranded or just want to pack lighter by not carrying a traditional tent, then a tarp tent can be a lifesaver. A tarp tent can provide great protection from the rain as well as a structure that will stand up to high winds due to its pyramid style design. They can also be easily modified to provide a run off for rain that can be used as a source of water collection. The first thing you’ll need to do is designate a good spot to build the tarp tent. Look for a flat smooth area that preferably has some type of trees or vegetation that will provide some shade during the hotter parts of the day if at all possible. Figure out the direction that the majority of the wind blows throughout the day and stake one corner of the tarp facing towards the wind. Then prop a pole, limb, or some other object under the opposite corner diagonally from where you previously staked the corner down. Then run a guide line from the top of the pole or object down to a stake, tree, large rock, or any other structure that would provide adequate strength. Then pull the remaining two corners tight and either stake them down or place heavy objects along its borders to provide enough weight to hold it under tension. Another neat trick is to make a door to your tent using a shirt, cloth, or any other object that you can use to either clothespin to the tarp itself or construct a light structure made out of sticks that have one end sharpened so you can stake them into the ground. Constructing a door on your shelter can help keep the heat in during cold nights, keep any wind and blowing rain out of your shelter, keep bugs out of your structure, and provide an obstruction for animals such as snakes. Once the shelter is assembled, I also like to place large rocks around the outside of the tarp where it meets the ground. This will ensure that even in the heaviest of normal winds, that the tarps rim doesn't lift enough from the ground to be toppled by the wind.

Urban Survival - Long Term Foods and Water

2011-04-23T09:40:00.006-05:00

During times of uncertainty, natural disasters, or possible terrorist attacks; it is important to be prepared for both water and food shortages. The focus of this article is just that, food and water. We will discuss other much needed items later on but it is always a good rule of thumb to have a survival kit on hand like the one that was discussed in last month’s article. First, we’ll cover key foods that can last nearly half a life time or longer.

There are certain foods that if properly prepared and stored, can last almost indefinitely. Salt, Honey, and Sugar can all last for hundreds of years if they are stored in a cool, dry, and dark environment. Did you know that when several of the Ancient Pyramids of Egypt were discovered, that they found honey that was still edible even today? There are several vendors online that you can find that have these core foods that are already sealed in manners that will help them last long enough to literally feed your grandchildren. Salt is required for the human body to function properly, it can be used to help preserve meats, it can be used to help season up a rather bland meal, attract wild game for trapping or harvesting, and lots of other great uses too. Sugar has several uses as well, as far as meal preparation, drink preparation, and several others. Honey can be used as a food supplement by itself, it can be used as an alternative to sugar, an ingredient for meal preparation, and much more.

Other foods like White Rice, Wheat, and many forms of Beans can last anywhere from 25 years to well over 50. These types of foods provide critical proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals which are required to maintain to the human body as well as your immune system, energy levels, and several other important aspects of your body. These items can also be found through several vender's online as well. The ones that I personally recommend are packed and sealed in #10 Cans in a manner that will ensure they last for at least 25 years if stored properly. A case of 6 #10 cans usually consists of about 33 lbs of food which would sustain one adult for about 17 days at a rate of 2 lbs per day. Rice, Wheat, and Beans can be used as complete meals by themselves or as accents to other forms of meats, vegetables, and fruits. Just like Salt, Sugar, and Honey, it is important to store them in a dry, cool, and dark environment to ensure you get the maximum life span out of them.

Water is even more important to the human body than food so it is critical to have an adequate amount of it on hand. Water is the key component within your body and accounts for about 60% of your body weight. The human body can only go a matter of days without water however most adults can last several weeks or longer without food. Though some people prefer storing bottled water, I prefer gallons of distilled water. The exact amount of water your body needs is different from person to person and depends on many variables including, age, weight, climate, activity level, ect… Most people are recommended to intake about 8 to 9 cups of water each day. However more active people need to account for their surroundings and increase their intake to match that of their total output or surpass it. This may mean increasing your intake to 12 to 13 cups per day to nearly doubling it. To better gauge yourself, you want to drink enough water to rarely become thirsty and to ensure your urine stays colorless or slightly yellow. You want to avoid having dark or murky urine because that is a good indication that your water intake is not sufficient and that your body may not have enough water to properly remove toxins from your vital organs or flush out your system. I would keep an absolute Minimum of a two week supply on hand for each adult and child within the household.

One strongly recommended practice in the event of a disaster is to fill your bathtubs up with water as soon as possible. If water pressure becomes unavailable, the water becomes contaminated or polluted after a storm surge as many natural disasters are known to do, then you will have a large amount of water stored for your use. This water would need to be used first and then when depleted, you can switch to using your stored water sources. Always filter or boil the water from the bathtub to ensure that there are no chemicals, soap residue, insects, or any other type of contaminants in the water as it will at that point start becoming stagnant. For keeping the water fresh for a lot longer periods of time, I would strongly recommend having an emergency water blob on hand. These are liners that fit into the bathtub that allow you to fill them with the faucet, seal them off, and use a handheld pump so that the water will not become unusable and will stay fresh until they are exhausted. The average bathtub can hold about 50 gallons of water, so that’s enough to sustain one adult for over 3 months. Then you can proceed to using your other forms of stored water.

How To Know When Your Campfire Cooking Oil Is Just Right

2011-04-09T11:18:00.005-05:00

For those of us that do a lot of cooking among the outdoors, cooking with oil is a great way to prepare fish and dozens of other types of wild game as well. The only bad part about survival cooking or campfire cooking is that you probably won’t have access to a temperature probe or anything else that will help you monitor your cooking oil temperatures. Luckily there’s any easy way to monitor your cooking oil to ensure that it gets to, and maintains that perfect 350 degrees. First, put an adequate amount of cooking oil into your pan and place it over the fire. Then, place an unlit wooden match into the oil and monitor it. When the oil reaches approximately 350 degrees, the wooden match will then ignite and smolder itself out by the oil. At that point, you’ll know that the temperature is just right and all you have to do is take note of the size, strength, and power of your fire and just maintain it to ensure that your temperatures won’t fluctuate. In most cases this is not necessary; as the meal will be cooked by the time the fire changes or weakens. Just remove the match from the oil and throw in your food and that’s it. Now you can accurately cook out in the wilderness and get the same great results that you would at home.

Traps - The Large Game Pitfall

2011-04-01T12:09:00.004-05:00

DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL, EVEN THEN - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!!!!!

Safety first – place orange flags or ribbons around the tree line circling the designated area as well as another stick with a flag attached near the pitfall site to aware other hikers. If you have a permanent marker in your supply bag then write the words CAUTION – PITFALL TRAP IN PLACE. If you leave an area, dismantle the trap including the wooden spikes, remove the brush cover from the top of the trap, and fill in the hole to the best of your ability. You may leave the flags up to still ensure others yield caution to avoid from breaking a leg or twisting an ankle due to a partially covered hole. NEVER leave a pitfall trap intact when you permanently leave an area! PERIOD! They can kill or severely injure other people including rescuers who may be trying to find you.

Setup – When trying to find an effective area for a pitfall trap try to locate active animal trails. These are trails where the grass or ground is noticeably trampled, small tree limbs have been broken over, or brush has been moved to the side or tampered with. Lots of these trails lead to open grazing areas or sources for water and are used by a vast array of different sized animals.

1) After locating an active trail, start digging a large circular hole directly in the animal path. Circular shaped trap holes generate less footing potential for prey than a square shaped hole and will decrease the opportunity for escape. For smaller prey, a hole with a 3 to 4 foot diameter with equal depth is adequate. For larger prey, you may want to build a trap 5 to 7 foot in diameter with equal depth as well or possibly even larger depending on the overall size of the targeted animal. Like any intensive activity especially during the hotter months of the year, begin the task of digging early in the morning to avoid any additional dehydration or fatigue. If you’re with a group, take turns digging to help share the workload.

2) Once the hole is completed, remove all the dirt around the hole to ensure that it is level on all sides to create a natural landscape and avoid making the potential prey detour around the trap. You can also use brush or some of the dirt to put on both sides of the pitfall trap in order to funnel the wildlife directly into the trap to help increase the traps success rate.

3) Once the hole is completed, start collecting long branches or sticks that are straight, sturdy, and about ½” to 1” in diameter. You want the main spears to be about 1/3 as long as the depth of your pitfall but also include an additional 8” to 12” to put into the ground at the bottom of the pitfall to ensure the spears are properly supported for strength. You’ll also want to collect smaller spears about ¼ as long as the depth of your pitfall but again include an additional 8” to 12” to put into the ground at the bottom of the pitfall to ensure the spears are properly supported for strength. Now that the spears are collected, sharpen the spears at an angle that will ensure two things. One that it’s not too pointed as to offer a weak or easily broken tip at the hide of tougher game like wild hogs. And two, that it is not too broad of a pointed tip which will have the advantage of being stronger but will cause less damage and may not kill the prey upon falling into the trap.

4) Once all the spears are sharpened, then it is time to start placing them within the bottom of the trap. Push the longer spears into the ground in an equal fashion leaving about 8” between them, followed with the smaller spears in-between the larger ones. The idea between the two different heights is to ensure a staggered trap that will strike a more critical blow to prey given that the spears are further apart putting more of the animal’s weight into each spear creating more penetration. At the same time, the shorter spears will ensure that you’re not giving up any surface area for smaller game.

5) The next step is to cover and camouflage the hole. The rule of thumb here is less is more. You want to develop just enough structure to hold leafs, grass, and light dirt but not enough to support the weight of a small/medium/large animal. Try to locate long and very thin branches or sticks in order to use as your core structure for holding up leafs and foliage to help hide the hole. Small leafy branches or weed straw work very well too. Sometimes it’s helpful to mock up several different types of coverings to the side of the actual hole or suspended on a large branch first to see which combination of branches, grass, or other materials supplies the lightest structure but still effectively covers and hides the hole. Once a method is discovered, transfer it to the pitfall to cover the hole. Sprinkle small amounts of dirt or crumbled up leaves to best make the cover match the surrounds as to not hint to the prey that it has been tampered. The better it matches the environment, the greater your potential of success.

6) Notes – Be extremely careful entering or exiting the pitfall. Given that you’ll have to enter the trap to secure the spears it is sometimes helpful to leave a designated spot spear less to ensure a safer means of entering and exiting. Other forms of support as giving someone a hand, spotting them in and out of the hole, tying a rope or some other form of support to a neighboring tree, or making a homemade latter can all ensure better safety in and around the hole.

7) When game is discovered inside the hole, try to use a large branch or stick that has a curve at the end to help pull smaller game out of the hole as well as to nudge them to ensure they are not still alive. Larger game may require two people pulling it out of the hole or throwing a rope over a tree creating a pulley system to lasso around the limbs of the animal and hoist it out of the pitfall. Take EXTREME caution when removing animals from the trap to ensure they are not still alive, that you yourself do not fall into the trap, or that the sides of the trap do not cave in which could also cause you to fall into it yourself.

8) If smaller animals are the main potential candidates or when your pitfall is not successful, it may be necessary to bait the trap. The best way is to suspend the bait using fishing line or cordage about 2 to 3 feet above the center of the trap helping to lure prey in and encouraging them to jump which just further increases the success of the trap.

DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL, EVEN THEN - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL!!!!!

How To Make Your Own Insect Repellent

2011-03-17T09:31:00.004-05:00

For many people, insect repellents that contain Deet can irritate your skin and even cause some people to break out. Little do most people know that you can make your own insect repellent at home with just a handful of ingredients. In fact, some people swear that homemade repellent is better than anything you can buy at the store. All you need is Aloe Vera gel, vegetable oil, and cedar oil. If you can’t find cedar oil, then you can also use sassafras or pure citronella oil. First mix 30% Aloe Vera, 55% vegetable oil, and 15% cedar oil. Allow it to sit for about 15 minutes and then you’re ready to apply it. Check for your sensitivity to the ingredients by applying a small amount to your forearm or behind your knee and watch it for several hours. If you don’t see any redness or other signs of allergens then you should be just fine. Some people might be allergic to some of the ingredients and not know it, so it’s always better to test yourself first to make absolutely positive before you rub a large amount of it all over your body. Also while wearing your homemade bug repellent, try not to wear dark colored clothing as mosquitoes, flies, and other insects are attracted to dark colors. Try wearing bright colored clothing as it will just further help deter pesky insects.

How To Stay Cool In The Summer Heat

2011-03-10T17:12:00.014-06:00

It’s that time of year again when the weather begins to warm up as we start approaching Summer. Before we know it, we’ll start seeing some triple digit temperatures. Dealing with excessive heat and high temperatures to most people means staying indoors, but for those of us that are outside then that means we must be extra careful to take care of ourselves. When you talk about high temperatures, many people feel as if they know exactly what to do when this time of year approaches. However hundreds of people die each year in the U.S. due to heatstroke or temperature related illnesses. In Fact, more people die each year due to temperature related illnesses than all other natural disasters combined including floods, tsunamis, hurricanes, earthquakes, and even tornado's. Therefore it’s always good to remind others about the proper ways with coping with high temperatures. Also, keep in mind that it takes most people’s bodies about 2 weeks to properly acclimate themselves to hot weather so take it slow the first couple of days and let your body adapt properly. I have listed several tips below to help keep you cooler and help monitor your water intake too.

Clothing – you want to wear clothing that is breathable, loose fitting, and in lighter colors. Dark colors like blacks, blues, grays, etc… will all be considerably warmer when in direct sunlight than whites, tans, yellows, very light grays, ect… that can actually help reflect some of the suns light and heat away from your body. Clothes that are loose fitting also help provide breathing room in between your skin and actually even help your body cool easier when sweating. Breathable clothes will ensure that some of the heat escapes from your body and allow as much airflow as possible to circulate. Also try to stick with wearing natural fibers such as cottons, linens, and silks instead of artificial fibers that can make temperatures more unbearable. One exception to artificial fibers however is Under Armour or the like, that are specifically designed for heat reduction. In the worst of climates, it may be necessary for you to try and cover all of your skin from sun exposure. This will actually help provide shade for your skin and decrease direct sunlight which can raise your body temperature. Just keep the coverings light, loose, and breathable.

Stick To The Shade – even though this sounds common sense, try to think about it in much more detail. If you’re planning a hiking trip in the middle of the day and have two trails in mind to choose from. Think about which one provides the most shade and indirect sunlight. Sometimes a longer trail heavy in shade is a better choice than a short trail in direct sunlight and can take a lot less out of you.

Water – Drink LOTS of Water! Water is the key component within your body and accounts for about 60% of your body weight. You need to drink water and pace yourself throughout the day. Don’t just drink when you become thirsty because you might already be showing some symptoms of the first stages of dehydration like feeling sluggish and tired. The exact amount of water your body needs is different from person to person and depends on many variables including, age, weight, climate, activity level, ect… Most people are recommended to intake about 8 to 9 cups of water each day. However more active people need to account for their surroundings and increase their intake to match that of their total output or surpass it. This may mean increasing your intake to 12 to 13 cups per day to nearly doubling it. To better gauge yourself, you want to drink enough water to rarely become thirsty and to ensure your urine stays colorless or slightly yellow. You want to avoid having dark or murky urine because that is a good indication that your water intake is not sufficient and that your body may not have enough water to properly remove toxins from your vital organs or flush out your system.

Soak Yourself – A great way to stay cool on a hot day is to either soak your shirt, bandana, hat, or even shorts in cool water. The slightest breeze will feel significantly cooler especially in the shade. If you feel yourself sweating profusely, then this provides a great way to cool down and take a break. You can also run cold water over your wrists, ankles, behind your knees, elbows, and neck. These are all points among your body that your veins and arteries run closest to your skin and are easiest to cool off and help dissipate heat. Try running cool water over these points or loosely tying a wet bandana or other device around them to help relieve some heat buildup.

Avoid Caffeine And Alcohol – These only promote dehydration and can trick your body into not triggering your thirst receptors within your brain as well as stimulate the production of urine.

Breathe Out Of Your Nose Rather Than Your Mouth – this is a great trick that I’ve used for years now. When you’re outside, breathe out of your nose rather than your mouth to help your body better conserve its water supply. Breathing out of your mouth requires your body to provide more moisture to your throat, mouth, and nasal pathways as the action of breathing in and out removes the moisture from those areas. Breathing through your nose will dramatically decrease this moisture loss and helps keep you from getting dry mouth or cotton mouth in hot climates.

Exert Yourself Wisely – keep a steady pace hiking, biking, running, jogging, etc… but don’t over exert yourself. Try to divide up a hard task among the day so that you don’t wear yourself out all at once and try to focus the harder tasks toward the cooler times of day either earlier or later than the mid day high temperatures.

Avoid Eating Large Meals – instead, divide up what you would normally eat in three large meals into 6 smaller meals. This will take smaller amounts of water away from the rest of your body in order for your stomach to digest a meal. The larger the meal, the more water your body will require to help digest it.

Know The Symptoms Of Heatstroke And Heat Exhaustion – This can include one or a combination of the following: rapid and shallow breathing, dry tongue and lips, cotton mouth, rapid heartbeat and pulse, confusion and disorientation, dizziness, dilated pupils, headache, fatigue and weakness, upset stomach, diarrhea, vomiting, high or low blood pressure, muscle cramps, and even unconsciousness. These are things you need to watch out for yourself as well as others. If you realize that either yourself or someone else is starting to show symptoms, then get yourself/them to a cool and shady location, dissipate as much heat a possible, let yourself/them very slowly drink some cold water, and monitor your/their conditions. If the conditions worsen then you may need to treat yourself/them with an emergency ice bath in order to drop your core temperature or rush them to an emergency room as soon as possible. If you yourself are in trouble, then call for help and avoid driving yourself unless it is absolutely necessary. You could run the risk of blacking out while driving.

Drink A Sports Drink – although water can be your first priority, it’s also good to drink sports drinks such as Gatorade and Poweraid. These provide lots of electrolytes, carbohydrates, and sodium that are not found in water alone.

How To Start A Fire With An Aluminum Can

2011-03-10T09:31:00.002-06:00

First, locate an aluminum soda can either by checking your supplies or even checking waterways or other locations for discarded cans. It's sad that this is the case, but you would be surprised just how far you can be from civilization and still be able to find litter among a river, lake, coast, etc... Often aluminum cans and water bottles are the most abundant. Next, locate either chocolate, any kind of powdered abrasive, or even toothpaste. Apply it to the bottom of the aluminum can and using some type of cloth, polish the bottom of the can until it produces a shiny reflective surface. Depending on what kind of abrasive agent you are using, this could take anywhere from 15 minutes to the better part of an hour. Keep adding the abrasive accordingly while continuing to polish the bottom of the can. When a near mirror image is produced then wash off the bottom of the can and clean it. This polished surface will act much like a convex lens which will concentrate the power of the sun into the middle focal point hot enough to ignite small tinder. Now by either holding the can or using a homemade platform of rocks or sticks, angle the can towards the sun. Much like using a magnifying glass, direct sunlight is key. This means that the best time of day to harness and focus the power of the sun is during the heat of the day. This will vary according to climate and geographic location but typically ranges from 11:00 A.M. to 2 P.M.. Using either your hand or a small twig, hold a piece of tinder approximately about an inch away from the center most point of the can. It's usually best to try to use a very thin twig so that you don't block anymore sunlight than you have to. When the tinder begins to smoke, blow on it carefully until it ignites and then transfer it to your fire bundle.

Making And Using A Rock Lock

2011-03-07T15:03:00.006-06:00

When I’m building a shelter, securing a tarp, or using a material that does not contain anchors, grommets, or attachment points, I often use what some people call a “Rock Lock” or “Monkey Fist”. This provides a point in the material that allows you to attach a tie down, stake it down, or fasten it to some other object. To make a Rock Lock, just locate a rock that is about 2 inches in diameter and has no sharp points that could damage the material. Place the rock within the material where you prefer it’s placement and rap the material around it. If it’s a thin material, you may rap it several times to ensure extra strength. Twist the rock so that the material tightens and provides an attachment point for cordage. Then wrap your cordage around this point twice and tie a knot to secure it. Now attach the cordage to the preferred tie down location and your Done! This provides a strong, wind proof, and secure attachment point that is considerably better than most pre-made attachment points and requires no cutting of the material so it can be used for multiple other tasks later on.

Survival Kit Components

2011-03-03T10:02:00.045-06:00

A Survival Kit is a must have for any outdoor enthusiast but is also highly recommended to all people in general. Every year, people around the world are displaced by major nature disasters and other elements in life that require survival like demands such as shelter, food, water, and medical aid. These situations could include hurricanes, tornado's, tsunamis, tropical storms, power loss, loss of water, terrorist attacks, and many more situations that could require items that you might not usually stock in your household. It is also highly recommended that you take a combination of the items listed below anytime that you are out in the wilderness. Although you don’t have to take everything with you, you do need to prioritize the items according to where you will be going and take as much as you can pack or as much extra weight as you can afford to carry. If you will be using a motor vehicle of some kind for the majority of the outdoor excursion, then there is no reason not to pack heavily. In survival situations, it is always better to be overly prepared rather than under prepared. Here are just a few items that one could include in their survival kit, I will continue to add more items as time goes on:

Ultra fine steel wool & Jute rope – can be used as tinder

Petroleum Jelly Lip Balm – can be used with tinder to make the flame burn hotter and longer

Magnifying Glass – can be used to ignite fires and for medical purposes

Bright Orange Blanket/Towel –can be used for warmth, toweling off, and signaling

Emergency Mylar Blankets – used for retaining body heat, shelter building, and signaling

Clear Plastic Bags – can be used to distill water, make solar stills, shelter coverings, etc.

Water Purification Tablets – used to chemically purify water when boiling is not possible

Water Filter – used for filtering water when boiling water is not possible

Metal Bowl – used for boiling water, rain collection, solar still collection, cooking meals, etc.

Metal/Aluminum Coffe Pot - used for boiling water and food preperation

Survival Knife – used for making tools, defense, shelter building, and meal preparation.

Knife Sharpening Stone – used to sharpen knifes, axes, saw, spears, shovels, etc.

Small Foldable Shovel – used for shelter building, trap building, fire pit construction, etc.

Lighters, Waterproof Matches, Mini Torches – used for fire starting.

Flashlight – preferably LED however traditional flashlights can be converted to make fire.

Bow Saw – used to cut limbs, trees, wood, or even rock given the right type of blade, preferably foldable for easy storage

Rope/Chain Saw – very compact and can be used to saw multiple types of lumber & limbs

Rope and Cordage – an assortment of several different lengths and weight capabilities is best.

Axe - used for collecting firewood, shelter building, raft construction, and much more

Sunscreen – used for skin protection

Sunglasses – especially when in snowy areas where snow blindness is a hazard or around water

Insect Repellent – multi insect repellent works best but important in swampy or mosquito prone areas

Needles & Thread – assortment for medical use, clothing repair, etc.

Winter/Summer Apparel – used to either conserve body heat or help keep you cooler

Raingear – used to keep dry and preventing Hypothermia

Candles – easily lit and provide light, wax can be used to waterproof standard matches

Tinder – could be several different things such as cotton, rope, lint, or even synthetic fire bars

GPS – can help locate safety areas, major roads, or even water sources

Solar Powering Device – can be used to recharge electronic devices

Advanced First Aid Kit – Capable of treating burns, broken limbs, lacerations, infections, etc.

Compass – helps track your movement, finds critical locations, & navigation back to civilization

Compact Food – foods such as beef jerky, nuts, dried fruits, or anything that won’t easily spoil

Protein Powder – very high in protein, lasts years as long as it doesn’t get wet, light weight

Multi-Vitamin Tablets - provides essential vitamins and minerals over long periods of time when food sources are limited

Salt Tablets or General Salt – very important for your body and can be used as bait for traps

Fishing Supplies – take an assortment of hooks, fishing line, weights, or even bright colored baits

Whistle – used to locate one another, signal rescuers, or communicate over long distances

Signaling Mirror – used to signal rescuers

Water – distilled water or the like for longer shelf life

Finding Game Easier By Using A Compass

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When I hunt, I like to have a compass near my gun or bow at all times. I do this so that when I take a shot I can quickly compare the direction of the game to the compass bearings. This allows me to climb down from my deer stand and follow the bearing on the compass towards the last position I saw the game fleeing towards. This makes it much easier to find the initial blood trail especially in heavy brush, thick foliage, or surroundings that seem to all blend together making it harder to establish memorable or distinguishable landmarks. This also helps me to find my direction back towards the stand or campsite once the game has been recovered.

How To Signal Rescuers

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Some of the most popular forms of signaling rescuers are listed and explained below. I will also release a more advanced list in the next upcoming months as well.

Fire – the most common Internationally recognized signal for a fire is three fires shaped in a triangular pattern. Three fires in a straight line equal distances apart is also a recognized signal. Keep in mind that visibility may come from either an airplane or helicopter so the distances between each fire need to be enlarged as well as the fires themselves. Even though it may look adequate from the ground or your perspective, try to imagine it from the rescuers perspective and plan accordingly. Fires are best seen at night rather than the day, so your best course of action is attempting this during nightfall.

Smoke – Whereas Fire is easily seen at night, smoke can be seen for up to several miles away during daylight. This will require a large fire that will not be easily interrupted by adding large amounts of green vegetation. Once a large fire is built and stabilized, throw on a massive amount of newly cut green vegetation onto the fire. This will create a large white plume of smoke for signaling. The Internationally recognized smoke signal distress call is three separate plumes of smoke. To produce the signal you will need a large coat, sleeping bag, blanket, or animal skin. If water is available then soak the item used to signal to avoid it catching fire. Cover the fire for about one to two seconds between smoke plumes to create a signal with three breaks in the cloud.

Signaling Mirror - This method usually works best at an area of higher elevation so if there is a hill, cliff, plateau, or other high spot, try signaling airplanes, helicopters, or boats from this area. You may have a signaling mirror in your survival kit but if not try to recover something shinny such as a flask, car mirror, aluminum can turned inside out, anything that could reflect sunlight. Using the object, try to point the reflective surface towards your target and move it from side to side and up and down rapidly but steady to signal. Any heavy cloud cover, foggy conditions, or thunderstorms will decrease the intensity of your reflective signaling so aim for clear and sunny conditions. Sometimes it is helpful to cut or poke a small hole in the center of the reflective object to look through in order to make it easier to aim. The larger the surface area, the better your signaling capabilities so try combining multiple objects in one large assembly to better increase your chances of being seen.

Trail Signaling – Although it is always advised to stay near a vehicle, airplane crash, or other easily spotted objects, sometimes because of food, water, shelter, and fire making one must travel away from their origins. If you do so, there are ways to help rescuers find you given that you’re not originally where they discover an area. You want to leave as many clues as possible as the rescuers themselves have gone through advanced training in order to help locate you. If you head in a general direction, try assembling a series of arrows made out of logs, lumber, rocks, or written in sand near the vehicle. If you have any orange tape, make small flags leading from that area to your campsite. If you don’t have any other means to mark a trail, use your knife to mark an X among trees, break sticks and brush over in an obvious fashion, or drag a stick into the ground while applying pressure to help leave a trail.

SOS – The SOS symbol is also widely known and recognized. This can either be composed of as a symbol or even radioed in using standard Morse code. The Morse code for SOS is 3 dots (or beeps), then 3 dashes (or longer beeps), followed by 3 more dots (or beeps). You can also try composing a signal using rocks, logs, green brush, or anything else that would stick out and spell SOS. Just like any signal, make sure it contrasts with its surrounding so that it will be easier to sport by rescuers. Also keep in mind that it will be viewed from far distances so be sure to make it large enough to be spotted. Something that looks to be sufficient from the ground may be almost invisible from the air or water.

Advanced Fire Producing Techniques

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These techniques will require lots of practice before mastering the art of making fire with natural objects found within your environment. The three most common ways to produce fire naturally include the following methods:

Hand Drill – This method requires you to collect two pieces of dried wood. The Drill piece needs to be about 10 inches long, about an inch or so wide, straight, a hardwood, and cylinder shaped. The base for the hand drill needs to be a semi-flat, soft wood, and be large enough not to move while using the drill. A slab of bark from a fallen tree often works well for a base. Whittle down one end of the piece designated as the drill into a curved point. Also whittle down a small impression into the base approximately the same size. Place the curved action end of the drill into the impression into the slab and starting from the top and working down, apply pressure downward moving your hands back and forth from top to bottom. You can also put a pinch of sand within the impression to help increase friction. If you don’t have any success then you can relocate another notch within the base to try a different portion of the slab. You can also try cutting a triangle shaped notch out of one of the sides of the slab and then making another impression right where the point of the triangle intersects. This will help introduce more oxygen to the hand drill helping increase the likelihood of producing fire. Continue using the hand drill and increase the speed of moving your hands back and forth more aggressively until you get signs of smoke or hot embers.

Fire Bow – This method requires you to collect three pieces of lumber and a smooth rock. The base and drill for the fire bow are the same as used by the hand drill listed above. The main difference here is that you are going to assemble another tool which will resemble a miniature bow. Locate a slightly curved stick and stretch cordage from one end to the other with just enough slack left between the two ends to wrap the drill in a fashion where moving the bow back and forth will turn the drill. Now, find a rock that is approximately the size of your palm, is fairly smooth, and has a slight indention on one side so that the top of the drill will stay in place easily. Next, place the curved action end of the drill down into the impression on the slab. Then, place the rock on top of the other end of the drill and apply pressure. Now move the bow back and forth while still applying pressure to the drill with the rock. Continue to do so and speed up the rhythm of moving the bow back and forth more aggressively until you get signs of smoke or hot embers. Once again, you can add a pinch of sand to the impression on the slab in order to help increase friction.

Wood/Fire Plow – This technique often reminds people of using a sanding wedge. It will require the same slab and drill that are used for both the hand drill and fire bow methods. However, instead of notching out an impression into the slab to insert the drill vertically, you will need to cut a trench to run the length of the slab or about 6 inches. Now while applying pressure and holding the drill at an angle, push it front to back in a fast pace to create friction. Small bits of wood that will resemble saw dust will start to form at the drills stopping point. Try a combination of stroke lengths starting at around 3 inches long and work your way down to as little as an inch worth of movement or until signs of smoke become visible.

Traditional Fire Producing Techniques

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These fire starting methods are the most basic and require little to no prior training or experience.

Matches –Waterproof matches are best and typically the larger the match the less likelihood it will be blown out or affected by wind or moisture. However, standard matches can be made waterproof by using candle wax to coat the heads. Some matches can be split down the middle doubling their numbers but be aware that by doing this it will make them more likely to be blow out by the wind.

Lighters and mini torches – lighters work well and often offer more fire starts than a bundle of matches. Waterproof lighters are also a good choice to offer more protection from the elements. Mini torches are typically waterproof by nature but be sure to read the product label in order to confirm that that’s the case. Mini torches offer great protection from the wind and have a higher likelihood of starting a fire in high moisture conditions due to the intensity and focus of the flame. Take EXTREME caution however not to burn yourself or leave them in direct sunlight or close to your body to avoid exploding or combusting.

Magnifying glass – a magnifying lens is a great way to start a fire that has many advantages over the other forms listed above. Glass or the like, are resistant to water, resistant to temperature, will never deplete like the fuel found in lighters or torches, and have infinite use unless they are broken unlike matches that are a single use only item. However they are limited based on sunlight availability making them hard to use in heavy tree cover. You can overcome this by making a fire bundle and producing fire in an open area and then transporting the fire back to camp. Depending on the power of the magnifying glass and general mass, direct sunlight is key. This means that the best time of day to harness and focus the power of the sun is during the heat of the day especially if it’s a lower power or smaller lens. This will vary according to climate and geographic location but typically ranges from 11:00 A.M. to 2 P.M., more powerful lenses may be capable of still producing fire several hours before or after that time range. Regardless, don’t wait till dusk to then decide that you should start a fire, by that time it will already be too late as indirect sun light does not hold the same potential for fire starting. Your chances of starting a fire can diminish drastically after 4 P.M. So prepare to build a fire early rather than later. If you didn’t pack a magnifying lens, you can try to disassemble cameras, monoculars, binoculars, telescopes, etc… Also if you have a first aid kit, look to see if there is a lens that accompanies the tweezers.

Fire Preparation

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Having a fire in the wilderness will greatly increase your chances of survival. Fire provides warmth from the elements, smoke to help signal rescuers, deters insects, a way to sterilize water and surgical tools if needed, a way to cook, light for your campsite or for igniting torches, keeping animals at bay, drying wet clothing, and keeping your spirits up!

Location – When it comes time to build a fire, location is critical. Start by surveying the land to find an area that is flat, dry, and somewhat wind protected. You also want to insure that it is located in close proximity to your source of timber, water, and your survival shelter.

Preparing for Fire – it’s very important to have the fuel for your fire already collected and some other forms of setup completed before you try to produce fire. You want to ensure that all your hard work will pay off and the last thing you want to do is produce a flame but not have anything setup to burn. Preparing for producing a fire really consists of collecting timber, preparing a fire bundle, and assembling your primary fire setup. When collecting timber, try to gather three different categories. The first is Tinder which is very small and thin items that can be easily ignited by flame such as dead grass, bird nests, old pine needles, feathers, cotton, dried moss, or dried leaves. Regardless of which types of tinder you collect, the main requirement is that it is bone dry. The second type is Kindling which is small to medium sized sticks or twigs that could be ignited by the Tinder. This also needs to be extremely dry as well and usually works best if it’s broken up in lots of smaller pieces ranging anywhere from 1 to 5 inches. The third type is often referred to as Fuel which is large logs, large branches, or large sticks that can burn for longer periods of time and will make up about 75% of your initial firewood collection. If you find larger items that are still wet, try placing them in a circle around the fire once it gets started to help dry them out rotating sides every one to two hours. Try to collect as much wood as possible so that your fire can last through the night. A simple rule of thumb here is collect what you anticipate to use for the fire and then double or triple it. People that do not use wooden fires frequently often underestimate how much firewood is actually used.

Fire Pit – to build a fire pit, dig out the soil about 5 to 8 inches deep in about a 3 foot circle. If large rocks are available then line the outside of the fire pit to prevent any hot coals from escaping. If rocks are not available you can also use leafy greens to line the perimeter which are hard to ignite but will still prevent hot coals from being blown by the wind. Don’t use river rocks which may have the tendency to explode or crack when placed next to a fire. The last thing you want to do is start a forest fire, so take proper precautions to avoid accidents. It’s also a good rule of thumb to try and strip vegetation back about 2 to 3 feet around the perimeter of the pit to reduce the chances of secondary fires.