Nicole’s old desk had seen better days. On the surface, it looked like a functional built-in, but once I started digging in, it became clear that it was more of a façade than a properly built piece. So the plan was simple, remove the old setup, rethink the space, and build a custom built-in desk that looked intentional, fit the alcove properly, and gave her a much better place to work (and store her book collection).

Because the opening wasn’t square and the walls weren’t flat, this project started with careful measuring, templating, and a SketchUp model. That planning phase made it possible to dial in the cabinet sizes, work out the face frame layout, and create a desktop template that would eventually drop right into place without any surprises. Or at least that was the hope.

The lower cabinets were built from walnut plywood with solid walnut face frame parts, while the drawer boxes were made from cherry. For the joinery, I used a dowel jig system, partly because I wanted to see how it would hold up in a real-world plywood casework project. A lot of folks ask about alternatives to the Domino, and this gave me a good excuse to live in that ecosystem for a while and see what the workflow was really like.

From there, the project moved into all the little details that make or break built-ins: oversized parts left for scribing, careful drawer fitting, consistent spacing, finish work, and hardware installation. The desktop itself was built using a template made months earlier, and I’ll be honest, dropping that top into place was one of the most stressful moments of the build. But when it slipped into the alcove with no gaps and no drywall damage, it felt like a miracle.

Of course, the project expanded a bit along the way. Once the old desk came out, Nicole asked for upper bookshelves too, which meant more demo, some drywall work, reshaping the opening, and moving a light. You know, just a few tiny “while you’re in there” additions. But the extra effort was worth it. The final result is a custom built-in desk with integrated storage, a clean fitted look, and a matching upper bookcase that makes the whole alcove feel finished.

This video is a condensed look at the build, but the full project goes much deeper. If you want all the details on measuring, planning, case construction, scribing, installation, and the full process behind this project, check out the complete course here: Demystifying Built-Ins

Important Links

• Demystifying Built-ins  Save 20% with code BUILTIN20
• Jessem Dowel Jig
• Titebond Hide Glue
• Milwaukee Trim Router
• Milwaukee Brad Nailer
• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block
• Natura OneCoat

The post Custom Built-In Desk, Huge Transformation appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

InKleind Blade Square

Price: $54.99
Where to Purchase: InKleind.com

The Inkleind Blade Square is a simple little aluminum square that sticks to your bandsaw blade with magnets and gives you a 90-degree reference surface for a digital angle gauge. It’s a straightforward idea, and that’s part of the appeal. Attach it to the back of the blade, zero out your angle gauge, then place the gauge on the table to see how close you are to square.

The catch is right there in the process: this tool is only as useful as the angle gauge you pair it with. If you don’t already own a decent digital angle gauge, the Blade Square probably isn’t going to do much for you. And even if you do, the final result is still limited by the accuracy of the digital gauge. In my testing, I found I could often see changes with a traditional square before the gauge reading would change, so while the setup got me very close, it wasn’t necessarily more precise than using a good square and a calibrated eyeball. Keep in mind, this is more the fault of the angle gauge than the Blade Square itself.

There’s also another real-world issue to keep in mind: bandsaw tables aren’t always perfectly flat. If you place your gauge in different spots on the table, you can get different readings. So consistency matters. Measure in the same place every time, and do it as close to the blade as possible. That said, I still think this is a nifty little device that plenty of woodworkers will appreciate, especially if they like digital setups and already have a high-quality gauge in the shop.

Smart Casters

Price: R7s – $76 for 4, R8s – $89 for 4
Where to Purchase:  RetractableCaster.com

Smart Casters from Bennington Manufacturing are genuinely clever. Instead of using a lever, lock, or foot pedal, they work by lifting the piece slightly. Lift the item and the caster drops into position. Lift again and it retracts. It’s a simple idea, but it solves a problem in a very elegant way.

I installed the beefier R8 version on my Roubo workbench, which is not exactly what you’d call featherweight. Installation was pretty painless, even with my usual tendency to overcomplicate things. The kit includes hardware, a long drill bit, and a driver, though I opted to use beefier bolts for my application. One of the nicest things about these casters is how easily they can be hidden. On furniture or cabinetry, you could tuck them behind a toe kick and still get full functionality because you don’t need physical access to a lever or release mechanism.

The obvious downside is that you do need to be able to lift the item you’re attaching them to. Fortunately, it only takes about an inch of lift to engage them. If you can manage that, these are about as easy to operate as any caster I’ve seen. Are there cheaper casters out there? Sure. Are there higher-capacity options? Absolutely. But for convenience and ease of use, these are pretty compelling. For the right shop setup, this could be exactly the mobility solution you’ve been looking for.

Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block

Price: $36 (With sandpaper and stickers) 
Where to Purchase: TWWStore.com

The Preppin’ Weapon from Time Shaver Tools is an old favorite. If you’ve been watching The Wood Whisperer for any length of time, you’ve probably seen me using one of these. My oldest one has been in service for roughly twenty years, and it still works exactly like it should. That kind of longevity tells you just about everything you need to know.

It’s made from high-impact ABS plastic, shaped to fit comfortably in your hand, and designed around one of the smartest little details imaginable: each sheet of sandpaper yields four perfectly sized strips for the block. The coil spring clips on each end make changing paper fast and painless, and the rubber-backed face strikes that nice balance between forgiveness and firmness. It’s soft enough to ride over minor surface variation, but rigid enough to keep your edges crisp. In other words, it sands like a proper sanding block should.

The reason I included it in this episode is simple: we’re now carrying the Preppin’ Weapon at TWWStore.com. I believe in the product enough that I wanted it in our store. And because we like sending folks something useful, when you buy it from us, it comes with six sheets of pre-cut sandpaper so you can get right to work. I’ve used a lot of sanding blocks over the years, and this one is still my favorite. Every woodworker should have one in the shop.

Jessem Box Joint Jig

Price: $249.99
Where to Purchase: Jessem.com

Last up is the Jessem Box Joint Jig for router tables. This is a well-thought-out jig that locks into the miter slot and rides on a smooth bearing-guided base. The fit and finish are solid, the movement is smooth, and the whole thing is designed around three standard box joint sizes: 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″. Swapping between those sizes is just a matter of changing the fence and key assembly.

If you’ve never used a box joint jig before, the basic idea is simple. The key acts as both a spacer and a stop, and its size matches the bit. After a test cut, you dial in the spacing between the key and bit, then use each fresh cut to index the next one. Once the first piece is done, you use it to offset the mating piece so the fingers interlock properly. It’s not complicated, and that’s part of what makes the Jessem appealing. In testing, even a first run in cheap plywood looked pretty darn good, and the solid wood test fit came together beautifully.

Compared to other options, the Jessem lands in a pretty sensible middle ground. A shop-made jig is cheap, but you’re generally locked into a single finger size and you have to build the thing yourself. Something like the Incra i-Box Jig is incredibly versatile, but with that flexibility comes a lot more complexity. The Jessem avoids much of that by being purpose-built for the router table and standardized router bit sizes. That makes setup simpler and use more intuitive, though the tradeoff is that you’re limited to three sizes. As usual, it’s a give-and-take situation. But if you want a simple, reliable way to cut clean box joints, this jig is definitely worth a look.

The post A new tool, an old tool, and some innovations | Tools Unleashed appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

We’re looking for someone who can create strong, polished YouTube thumbnails for an established woodworking channel. The goal is simple: make people want to click, without making the thumbnail feel cheesy, misleading, or overdone.

About the channel
Our content is rooted in woodworking, but the thumbnails should have broad appeal. We care about story, emotion, curiosity, honesty and clarity.

What we’re looking for

• Custom thumbnails for long-form YouTube videos
• Strong compositing and retouching skills
• Great cutouts, lighting work, text treatment, and overall visual hierarchy
• Ability to work from photos, video stills, and a short explanation of the video
• A style that feels consistent with the channel, but flexible enough to fit different projects
• Reliable turnaround and openness to revisions when needed

A note on workflow
We want thumbnails built from real images and solid design skills. Please do not use generated faces, generated backgrounds, or fully generated composite elements. We’re looking for someone who can build the final image by hand using provided assets, licensed stock when appropriate, and traditional editing techniques.

The style we like

• Clean, modern, high-contrast images
• Clear focal point
• Strong subject separation
• Real emotion and a sense of story
• Thoughtful use of drama, tension, transformation, or intrigue
• Minimal text, only when it genuinely helps
• Nothing that feels fake, spammy, or generic

To apply, email info@thewoodwhisperer.com with

• 5 to 10 thumbnail examples you made for real YouTube channels
• A short explanation of how you approach thumbnail design
• Your pricing, per thumbnail or monthly
• Your typical turnaround time
• Whether you provide layered source files

Bonus points if you

• Are a woodworker or maker yourself
• Have worked with maker, DIY, education, or story-driven YouTube channels
• Understand how to make a thumbnail perform without leaning on cheap clickbait
• Can offer input on titles or thumbnail text

If your work is sharp, thoughtful, and built to get attention without insulting the viewer, we’d love to see it.

The post YouTube Thumbnail Designer Wanted, Human-Made, No AI appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

A Shipping Disaster

Book conservator Noah Smutz found a vintage book press at auction, a perfect addition to his shop.Built in 1905 by Hickok Manufacturing, it’s ideal for preserving rare books, Bibles, and manuscripts. Unfortunately, the press didn’t survive shipping.

It arrived with severe damage. The press had tipped over in transit, cracking the wooden frame at multiple joints and compromising the structure. The impact shattered the mortise and tenon joints and broke several cast iron components, including the handwheel. Considering a press like this can generate thousands of pounds of force, a simple repair wasn’t going to be enough.

That’s when the project shifted from a repair to a full book press rebuild.

The Rebuild

Instead of patching the damaged frame, we rebuilt the wooden structure from scratch while preserving as much of the original hardware as possible.

The new frame was made from hard maple, laminated from thick stock to achieve the necessary strength and mass. From there, the build focused on robust joinery, including large mortise and tenon joints and drawbored pegs, all carefully fitted to work with the original cast iron parts.

We made a few subtle design improvements along the way, raising the lower rail and lowering the top crossmember slightly to better suit Noah’s workflow. These changes reduce the need for blocking during use and improve the press’s overall stability.

With the frame complete, the original components were cleaned, repaired, and reinstalled. The goal wasn’t to make the press look brand new, but to give it another century of useful life while respecting its history.

Delivery

Final assembly took place in Noah’s shop in St. Louis, where the book press rebuild finally came together. Seeing it back in service, pressing newly restored books, was the perfect reminder of what this project was really about.

This wasn’t just a rebuild. It was a chance to preserve a tool that plays a small but important role in preserving history itself.

Links

• Hybrid Woodworking Book
• Carbon Method Carbon Coat Kit
• Bench Nuts
• Carbon Coating Prep Kit
• Surfprep 3×4 Electric Ray Sander (Save 10% with code TWW)
• BackSide Sandpaper

The post This 120-Year-Old Book Press Was Destroyed… So I Rebuilt It appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Over the years, I’ve had a lot of different shops including several garage shops and now a large Firehouse shop. Each move brought a fresh set of challenges. And almost every time, the solution wasn’t buying something, it was building something.

That’s really what shop projects are all about. They’re not just filler builds. They’re problem-solvers. Workflow improvers. Sanity savers. And honestly, when I’m burned out, this is the stuff I gravitate toward. There’s something incredibly satisfying about dialing in your space and making it work better for you.

So in this compilation, I revisited a handful of my favorite shop projects, some simple, some more involved, all designed to solve real problems. If you’re looking to improve your shop, there’s probably something here for you.

Cross-Cut Sled, The Ultimate Table Saw Upgrade

Watch the full video:
Cross-Cut Sled

A good cross-cut sled is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your table saw. At its core, it’s simple, a base, two fences, and runners. But the magic is in how it supports the workpiece. Unlike a miter gauge, the sled keeps your stock fully supported and square to the blade throughout the cut. That means better accuracy, cleaner cuts, and improved safety.

This particular sled used an HDO fence and was dialed in using the five-cut method. Yes, it involves math. Yes, it can make you question your life choices. But when it’s done right, it’s dead accurate. These days I use an Incra 5000, but if you’re on a budget, a shop-made sled is a no-brainer.

Compact Plane Till, Storage That Works With You

Watch the full video:
Compact Plane Till

This is one of those projects that quietly becomes indispensable. The Compact Plane Till holds multiple planes, keeps them protected, and more importantly, keeps them visible and accessible. I’m firmly in the “don’t hide your tools” camp. If I can see it, I’m more likely to use it.

Built from cherry with a plywood back, this design balances durability with practicality. One lesson learned the hard way, don’t glue your dividers. Future-you will want flexibility. Add magnets for security, lay out your tools before building, and you’ve got a storage solution that will last for years.

Adjustable Height Work Support, Simple and Effective

Watch the full video:
Adjustable Height Work Support

This project proves you don’t need anything fancy to solve a real problem. Made from basic construction lumber, this adjustable support is perfect for breaking down sheet goods or supporting long workpieces. A simple pin system allows for height adjustments, and while it’s not infinitely adjustable, it gets the job done.

Would it be better with perfectly spaced drill press holes? Sure. Did it still work great with “close enough”? Also yes. Sometimes “good enough” is exactly what your shop needs.

Giant Assembly Table, The Heart of the Shop

Watch the full video:
Giant Assembly Table

Every shop needs a solid assembly surface, and this one has been a workhorse. Built from southern yellow pine and topped with laminated plywood, this table embraces a key philosophy: mostly flat is flat enough. No torsion box required.

It also pulls double duty with storage, drawers, clamp racks, pegboard, making it a true central hub in the shop. If you’re going to build one big shop project, this might be the one.

Drill Bit Storage Cabinet, Small Upgrade, Big Impact

Watch the full video:
Drill Bit Storage Cabinet

Drill bits tossed in a drawer is a recipe for frustration. This cabinet organizes everything cleanly and protects your bits at the same time. Built from plywood with cherry accents, it’s a great example of using shop furniture to practice furniture-making skills.

Dados, rabbets, a mitered door with splines, this isn’t just storage, it’s a skill-builder. And the French cleat mounting makes it easy to hang and reposition as needed.

Drill Charging Station, Contain the Chaos

Watch the full video:
Drill Charging Station

If your cordless tools are scattered across the shop, this project is a game changer. With dedicated slots for drills, shelves for accessories, and space for chargers, it creates a centralized hub for your most-used tools.

It’s built entirely from plywood using simple joinery, but the impact on organization is huge. And yes, you might end up with extra slots…which is a great excuse to buy more tools.

Quick Shop Cabinets, Built for Your Space

Watch the full video:
Quick Easy Shop Cabinets

Custom shop cabinets are where things really start to click. In this case, the biggest challenge was a sloped floor. The solution? Build a level platform first, then build the cabinets on top of it.

This approach simplifies everything and avoids complicated cabinet adjustments. From there, it’s all about customization, drawers, doors, pullouts, whatever your workflow demands. And while hardware costs can add up, the efficiency gains are worth it.

Double Your Drawer Storage, A Simple Hack

Watch the full video:
Double Drawer Storage

This is one of those “why didn’t I do this sooner” projects. By adding a sliding upper tray inside an existing drawer, you effectively double your usable storage space.

It’s perfect for shallow tools, layout gear, pencils, and small accessories. And it requires minimal modification to your existing drawer. Simple idea, huge payoff.

Fancy Tool Holders, Because Why Not?

Watch the full video:
Fancy Walnut Tool Holders

Shop projects don’t always have to be purely utilitarian. These walnut tool holders bring a little style into the shop while still being incredibly functional. From chisel racks to scraper holders, each piece is designed around the tool it holds.

That’s really the key takeaway here, let the tool dictate the design. Also, magnets. Always a good idea.

Space-Saving Plywood Cart, Smarter Material Storage

Watch the full video:
 Plywood Cart

Sheet goods storage can get out of hand fast. This cart solves that by creating a pivoting, wall-mounted system that keeps plywood accessible without taking up a ton of space.

Mounted on hinges with casters for support, it swings out when needed and tucks away when it’s not. It’s efficient, compact, and surprisingly easy to use, even when fully loaded.

Build a Shop That Works for You

Every shop is different. Different tools, different spaces, different priorities. But the common thread through all of these projects is intentionality. Each one solves a real problem. Each one makes the shop a little more enjoyable to work in.

And that’s really the goal.

Because when your shop works better, you work better. So if something here sparked an idea, run with it. Build it. Modify it. Make it your own.

Your future self will thank you.

The post 10 Must-Build Shop Projects (Jigs, Fixtures & Furniture) appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Don’t Miss the Pre-Order Bonus Offer! – Demystifying Builtins 

What is Bent Lamination?

Bent lamination is exactly what it sounds like. Instead of bending a thick board, you:

1. Cut the wood into thin strips

2. Apply glue to each strip

3. Stack them together

4. Clamp the stack around a curved form

Once the glue dries, the laminated stack holds the curved shape permanently. The result is strong, stable, and surprisingly elegant.

Designing the Bending Form

Everything starts with the form. Whatever shape you build into the form will ultimately define the final curve.

For this towel rack, I drew the curve directly onto sheet material and cut it out using typical shop tools. A CNC would make this quick work, but honestly this is an easy job with basic tools too.

The first cut piece becomes the template. I stacked several layers together to get the thickness needed for the form, then glued and nailed them together before flush trimming them to match the template perfectly.

Because the finished bent part is about ½″ thick, the mating half of the form needs a complementary curve offset by that amount. You could measure and draw that offset, but sometimes you get lucky, like when a washer happens to be the perfect size to trace the curve.

Bending the Lamination

With the form complete, the process is pretty straightforward:

• Cut thin strips of wood
• Apply glue to each strip
• Stack them together
• Clamp the stack tightly around the form

This pressure forces the strips to take on the curve of the form. After the glue cures, the laminated piece holds its shape permanently.

A Practical Bathroom Upgrade

The final result is a simple spa-inspired towel rack designed to hold multiple clean towels without making the bathroom feel cluttered. The gentle curves created by bent lamination give the piece a soft, modern look while keeping the construction strong and lightweight.

Bent lamination might sound intimidating, but once you try it, it quickly becomes one of the most versatile techniques in your woodworking toolkit.

One of the most satisfying things in woodworking is convincing wood to do something it doesn’t naturally want to do. Sometimes you coax it. Sometimes you force it. Either way, the results can be pretty amazing when you learn the art of bent lamination.

In this project I’m building a spa-style towel rack with bent lamination for our bathroom. It’s a great way to create smooth curves that would otherwise be difficult, or impossible, to achieve with solid wood.

Video Links

• Under Table Saw Cabinet
• Hardwax Oil Test 
• Bent Lamination Quilt Rack
• Mastering Bent Lamination Course

Stuff You Need

• Titebond Cold Press Glue
• Natura Onecoat
• Circle Template
• Preppin’ Weapon

The post Build a Curved Spa-Style Towel Rack with Bent Lamination appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Most people would call it an assault on the eardrums. I was mesmerized.

Suddenly I wasn’t in Joe’s bedroom anymore. I was on a stage. Tommy Lee was in front of me, Vince Neil was belting out Girls, Girls, Girls, and somehow I belonged there. If you don’t like Mötley Crüe, get your own fantasy!

That moment stuck with me. It was a turning point. I realized I didn’t just want to watch music happen. I wanted to be part of it.

Making It Work

Luckily, I had musicians in the family. My step-dad was in a country music band and I had a few uncles that had extra equipment laying around. Before long, an old drum set that had been collecting dust in an attic made its way into my basement. It was incomplete, mismatched, and missing hardware.

No tom mounts? No problem.

Using some of my Jersey ingenuity, I threw a ladder over a couple of garbage cans and dropped the toms between the rungs. A little rope, some wire, questionable engineering decisions, and boom, a mostly operational drum kit. I wish I had a picture of it. It was ridiculous. But it worked. I started teaching myself how to play.

Looking back, I’m amazed my mom allowed it. Acoustic drums in a basement are not subtle. And we lived in a small house in Trenton, NJ with no insulation between the basement and main floor with neighbors in close proximity. Sound just went right through ceiling and walls. But Mom always said she liked hearing it because it meant I was home and safe. As a parent now, I understand that in a way I couldn’t back then.

The Magic of a Jam Session

Not long after, I found a few friends at school and we started playing together. We weren’t good. We never would be. But that wasn’t the point.

If you’ve never played an instrument, here’s something you might not realize: there’s a huge difference between playing music you’ve memorized (or read) and creating something together in real time.

A jam session usually starts small. A guitarist plays a few chords. The bass player finds a groove underneath it. The drummer listens for the pulse and locks it in. Everyone is playing their own part, but they’re also constantly listening, adjusting, reacting.

It’s creative tension and cooperation happening simultaneously. When it clicks, it’s electric. You’re interpreting someone else’s intention in real time. You’re offering your own ideas without overpowering the whole. You’re building something none of you would have created alone.

That feeling is hard to describe. But when you experience it, you chase it.

The Woodworking Version

Years later, I realized I’ve been chasing that same feeling in the shop. I don’t think we talk enough about collaboration in woodworking. A lot of designers operate solo. And that makes sense. Designing is personal. It’s vulnerable. It’s easy to want full ownership of the idea. But that’s rarely my approach.

I consider myself an average designer. Most of what I create is derivative in some way, influenced by the thousands of pieces I’ve studied and the countless woodworkers I’ve learned from over the years. So why would I pretend my ideas spring from a vacuum? If anything, I want input.

Not from just anyone, of course. I’m selective. I trust experience. I value thoughtful critique over unsolicited opinion. And I care deeply about aesthetic alignment. But when I find the right collaborator, magic happens.

My SketchUp Jam Partner

One of those collaborators has been Brian Benham. For years, Brian helped bring Wood Whisperer designs to life. He created plans, built SketchUp models, and contributed to the design credit on many Guild projects. If you’ve taken a Guild course, you’ve seen his fingerprints. Brian even has several courses in the Guild including one on designing in Sketchup.

Here’s how it usually works. I send Brian everything I have, measurements, constraints, angles, reference photos, and my very imperfect SketchUp model. I’m competent enough in SketchUp to get things 50 to 60 percent there. An approximation, but not refined.

Then we hop on Zoom. Brian opens SketchUp and shares his screen. And this is where it feels exactly like a jam session.

I’ll say, “What if we soften that curve?” He draws it instantly.
“What if that leg tapers a little more aggressively?” Done.
“Can we see what it looks like with a different angle?” On the screen in seconds.

But he’s not just drafting my ideas. He’s reacting. Suggesting. Improving.

“Have you considered lowering the rail?”
“That proportion feels heavy.”
“What if we echoed that angle here?”

Back and forth. No ego. No defensiveness. Just exploration.

I’ve done this with Brian 20 or 30 times over the years. Just recently, we did a quick consult on a table I’m building for my buddy Jason. The concept wasn’t fully formed, but after an hour of jamming, it was clear enough to move confidently into prototypes and shop work.

That’s the payoff. Before a single board is cut, the design is stronger.

Why This Matters

Collaboration does a few powerful things:

• It confirms good instincts
• It exposes weak ones
• It prevents expensive mistakes
• It accelerates refinement
• It pushes you beyond your default thinking

Most importantly, it reminds you that woodworking doesn’t have to be a solitary pursuit.

We romanticize the lone craftsman. But historically, workshops were collaborative spaces. Apprentices, masters, peers, all working, observing, critiquing. The modern version might just be Zoom and SketchUp (or your software of choice).

Try Your Own Jam Session

I don’t know what kind of access you have to other woodworkers. Maybe it’s a friend at the local woodworking club. Maybe it’s someone in the Wood Whisperer Guild. Maybe it’s me and you’ve hired me for a consultation.

But if you ever get the chance to “jam” on a design together, take it. Share your rough sketch. Share your half-baked idea. Get on a call. Let someone else poke at it. With the right person, it’s exhilarating. Two minds exploring what-ifs. Throwing out ideas. Refining proportions. Building something neither of you would have created alone.

Maybe someday I’ll reach a point where I don’t want outside input. Maybe I’ll be so confident that another opinion would only muddy the water. But I doubt it. Because for me, woodworking isn’t just about building furniture. It’s about making something better than my last project and constantly trying to fill gaps in my woodworking education. Other people with unique perspectives and backgrounds are a great cheat code for achieving that goal.

And that’s music to my ears!

The post Try a Woodworking Jam Session appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

One of the biggest transitions a woodworker can make is moving from a home shop to a commercial space. I’ve worked in both, and the “right” choice depends heavily on your stage of life and business.

When my kids were little, having a shop at home was invaluable. I could work during naps, pop in after bedtime, and stay close to family. That flexibility is hard to beat.

As they got older, though, the shop became more of a distraction. I started craving separation between work and home life. Moving into a commercial space gave me clearer boundaries and a more professional environment for clients and guests.

But there are tradeoffs:

• A basement shop has no rent, no commute, and bundled utilities.

• A commercial space means fixed monthly expenses and additional insurance.

• Security becomes a real consideration.

• DIY projects at home become more complicated when your tools aren’t nearby.

On the flip side, a commercial shop allows for growth, better workflow, and room for additional help. For me, it was the right move, but it’s not a universal answer.

How to Make Kapla-Style Blocks from Scrap Wood

Kapla-style planks follow a precise 15:3:1 ratio. If you’re making your own from leftover lumber, accuracy matters. Here’s the general order of operations I recommend:

1. Mill to thickness first
   Start with a flat, jointed board and plane it down to your target thickness. Sneak up on the final dimension using calipers. A planer will get you close, and a smoothing plane can dial it in perfectly.

2. Rip into strips
   Use the bandsaw to cut slightly oversized strips. Then plane them down to final thickness just like you did with the full board.

3. Cut to length with a stop block
   Use a miter saw with a stop block for repeatable accuracy. If you need micro adjustments, nudge the stop block incrementally until you hit your exact measurement.

Batch your work. Mill all boards first, then rip all strips, then crosscut all pieces. This keeps everything consistent. If you’ve ever made edge banding or thin slats, the process is very similar.

Are Table Saw Cuts Really “Glue Ready”?

Here’s the important distinction: Glue ready and finish ready are not the same thing.

Most power tools in my shop produce surfaces that are glue ready, meaning flat and clean enough for a strong bond. But that doesn’t mean they’re ready for finish.

• A bandsaw surface often needs additional work before it’s even glue ready.

• A jointer surface is usually glue ready, but may show subtle cutterhead striping under finish.

• A planer can leave a very clean surface, but I still prefer light sanding, scraping, or planing before applying finish.

• A table saw cut is typically glue ready, assuming a sharp blade and proper setup, but faint blade lines are almost always present.

Those small lines might not look like much, but once finish goes on, they become much more noticeable. Finish highlights imperfections, it doesn’t hide them. So my general rule is simple: If it comes off a power tool, it’s probably glue ready. It’s rarely finish ready. A few extra minutes of post-processing can make a big difference in the final result.

The Best Way to Remove Dried Glue from Clamps

Let’s be honest, prevention is ideal. Wax your clamp bars. Lay down paper or tape during glue-ups. In theory, that’s great advice. In practice, most of us don’t bother. Fortunately, most dried glue pops off easily with a putty knife. For more stubborn buildup, there’s a simple solution you probably already have in your kitchen: vinegar.

You have two options:

• Wrap the clamp bar in a vinegar-soaked rag and let it sit.

• Create a PVC pipe “bath” and soak the bar directly.

After soaking, the glue softens enough to scrape off easily. One warning: vinegar can dull the finish on shiny clamp bars. If aesthetics matter to you, keep that in mind. Simple, inexpensive, effective.

Do Acoustic Panels Actually Reduce Shop Noise?

This is where things get misunderstood. Acoustic panels do not soundproof a room. They won’t stop noise from escaping your shop. What they do is reduce reflections inside the space. By absorbing mid and high frequency sounds, they prevent harsh reverberation and make the room feel calmer and more controlled. Your recordings will sound dramatically better. If you’re building your own panels:

• Use a quality absorber like 2-inch Rockwool.

• Wrap it in acoustically transparent fabric.

• Mount panels with an air gap roughly equal to the panel thickness.

• Consider staggering them to reduce reflected sound paths.

If you want a full walkthrough, I’ve got a detailed video showing how I built mine.

Want Your Question Featured?

If you’d like your question answered in a future Ask TWW episode, join us in the YouTube membership area or on Patreon. I answer every question submitted, and occasionally feature a few in the show.

Thanks to all our supporting members for helping us keep this thing going.

The post Dried glue on your clamps? Do this! (Plus 4 More Shop Questions) appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The Problems

Parallel clamps feature hard plastic faces. While durable, that material creates two common problems that nearly every woodworker has experienced. First, the hard jaws can dent the workpiece when excessive pressure is applied, especially on softer woods or already-machined surfaces. Second, the smooth plastic offers limited grip, which can allow the clamp to shift during glue-up, requiring extra adjustments and attention.

The Solution

To fix both of these problems, we can add a softer, slightly compressible pad to the clamp faces. This reduces the chance of denting and allows the clamp to hold more securely with less force. The added grip also helps prevent pieces from sliding out of alignment as clamping pressure increases.

The material I’m using for this is rubberized cork sold by my buddy Andy at In-Kleind.com.

1. Cut the material to shape. I made a template using this DXF file. You can also purchase a template from us if you like. Both are available in our store!
2. Scrape any glue off the clamp head and give it a light sanding with 120-150 grit paper.
3. Clean the surface using a solvent like denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner or acetone.
4. Apply contact cement (https://amzn.to/4rl6gCq) to both the clamp head and the clamp pad. Allow to dry 15-20 minutes.
5. Carefully press the clamp pad onto the face of the clamp. Keep the clamp under pressure for 24 hrs.

A Time Saver: True Grip Clamp Pads

If you want to save yourself a bunch of time, consider purchasing True Grip Clamp Pads.

In the end, the takeaway is simple. Parallel clamps are already excellent tools, but with a small modification to the jaw surface, they become easier to use, more forgiving, and more effective. If you want to improve your parallel clamps and get better results from the ones already in your shop, this step-by-step approach shows exactly why the upgrade works and how it improves everyday woodworking tasks.

The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Woodcraft!

Looking for more information on parallel clamps? Check out these videos and articles:

• The Truth About Parallel Clamps and Why They’re Hard to Review
• Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamp Review
• Parallel Clamp Rack

The post This Simple Upgrade Makes Parallel Clamps Way Better appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

As a kid, I loved rearranging my bedroom. It wasn’t about buying new furniture or adding more stuff, it was about seeing how small changes could completely change how the room felt and how I used it. That same instinct has followed me into the shop, especially when it comes to shop layout.

Over the years, I’ve learned that shop efficiency rarely comes from major overhauls. More often, it comes from stepping back and asking one simple question: does this shop layout actually reflect how I work?

The Problem With “Good Enough” Layouts

Most shops evolve organically. You get a new tool, you find a place where it fits, and you move on. Over time, that approach leads to friction you may not even notice anymore, extra steps, awkward material handling, and work that feels harder than it should.

Nothing in my shop was “wrong” on its own. But when I looked at the space as a system instead of a collection of tools, it became clear that the shop layout and overall flow could be better.

Designing Around Workflow, Not Tools

One of the biggest mindset shifts is realizing that tools shouldn’t dictate layout, process should. A good shop layout is built around how material moves, not just where machines happen to fit.

I looked at how material actually travels through my shop, from rough stock to milling, from machining to assembly, and finally to finishing. Once you map that out, inefficiencies become obvious. Machines that made sense individually didn’t always make sense together.

By adjusting locations slightly, not dramatically, I was able to reduce unnecessary walking, improve material flow, and create clearer work zones without gaining a single square foot. These small refinements made the shop layout work with me instead of against me.

Small Changes That Add Up

What surprised me most was how minor the changes were. Moving a tool a few feet. Reorienting another. Clearing visual clutter from high-traffic areas. None of it was flashy, but the cumulative effect was immediate.

The shop feels calmer. Work feels more intentional. I have so much space for activities, and I spend less time navigating the space and more time actually building. That’s the power of a thoughtful shop layout.

Efficiency Is About Thinking, Not Space

A bigger shop doesn’t automatically mean a better shop. What matters is how well your shop layout supports your way of working.

If there’s one takeaway here, it’s this: you don’t need a full rebuild to see meaningful improvement. Thoughtful, incremental changes, guided by workflow, can produce outsized results.

Sometimes the biggest gains come from the smallest moves.

Relevant Links

• Irwin Jack Lifts
• Our Shop Project Videos
• Plans for Shop Projects
• Miter Saw Station Course 
• Split-Top Roubo Course
• Roubo Workbench Cabinet Course
• Under Table Saw Cabinet Course
• Wireless Switch

The post Small Tweaks, Big Results | Shop Layout appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Most of these projects have FREE plans or templates and you can access those using the links below. Looking for more easy projects? Check out some of the projects available from our sponsor, Woodcraft.

• Poker Chip Trays

Originally designed by Chris Hoomani, these elegant, stackable poker chip trays combine clean lines with clever construction. Built from thick stock with hidden magnets and carefully sanded chip slots, they’re a great example of how thoughtful details elevate a simple idea.

• In-Drawer Knife Block

A beautiful and functional solution for storing kitchen knives safely inside a drawer. Built from contrasting hardwoods and assembled with sliding dovetail keys, this project balances precision, practicality, and clean design, and it’s still in daily use years later.

• Classic Picture Frame

A timeless frame built with reinforced miters, decorative profiles, and a carefully planned rabbet system for glass, art, and backing. This project walks through techniques that ensure tight joints and professional results on a deceptively simple build.

• Napkin Holder

Made from live edge Birdseye maple, this napkin holder turns an everyday item into a conversation piece. Thoughtful angles, a pivoting lid, and grain continuity give this small project a refined look that still feels playful and personal.

• Grasshopper Pull Toy

A fun wooden toy built from simple shapes, patterns, and dowels, with moving parts that bring it to life. This project is a great introduction to template work and toy making, and it’s one that still holds sentimental value years later.

• $33k Spatula

Short, sweet, and unforgettable. This spatula build became legendary thanks to the story behind it, and after years of steady kitchen use, it’s still going strong. Sometimes the simplest projects are the best projects.

• Headphone Controller Rack

A minimalist wall-mounted rack designed to hold headphones and game controllers without visual clutter. Built with templates and simple joinery, this project became popular enough to turn into a CNC kit, and it’s still hanging in my office today.

• Scrapwood Jewelry Boxes

A fan-favorite project that turns offcuts into elegant keepsake boxes. With careful attention to grain continuity, small joinery, and hardware installation, these boxes prove that scrap wood can produce truly high-end results.

• Salt Cellar

A compact, gift-friendly project that uses clever temporary lamination techniques to shape multiple parts at once. With smooth interior curves and a simple bolt-together assembly, this is one of those Easy Woodworking Projects that people tend to make again and again.

• Pizza Peel

Built from contrasting hardwoods and thinned by hand for easy pizza transfer, this peel has been used for hundreds of pizzas over more than a decade. Functional, durable, and finished with food-safe oil, it’s a shop project that earns its keep.

The post 10 Easy Woodworking Projects (Compilation) appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

In my case, I cut the two 5 degree angles with a regular blade and then cleared out the material between them using a dado stack. Parallelogram strips of a contrasting species were then cut and glued into the slot. The side of the strips leaves about a 1/32″ gap on either side for our greeting card slots.

I then cut some 10 degree angles on the ends and used my Aeon Mira 9S Laser to add a nice “Seasons Greetings” to the front.

In just a few steps, you can create a stylish greeting card holder that’s perfect for Christmas cards, holiday photos, or year-round display (just flip it around).

Quick, approachable, and visually striking, this project is a great way to use up leftover wood while creating something people will actually love to keep on their countertops during the holidays and beyond.

Looking for more festive holiday projects? Check out this easy to make Holiday Wall Art.

If you’re looking for yet another project that can make use of off-cuts, check out my Scrapwood Jewelry Boxes. 

Relevant Links

• Aeon Mira 9S Laser
• WoodRiver Router Plane
• WoodRiver Smoothing Plane
• WoodRiver Apron Plane
• Titebond III
• Natura OneCoat
• Backside Sandpaper
• Hybrid Woodworking Book

The post Easy Scrap Wood Project: Make a Greeting Card Holder appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Dura-Gold Firm & Flex Longboard Sanding Block

Price: $29.99
Where to Purchase:

• Dura-Gold Firm & Flex Longboard
• Dura-Gold Super Flex Longboard
• Dura-Gold Adjustable Radius Flex
• Serious Grit 120 Paper Roll 
• Serious Grit 180 Paper Roll

If you’re tired of making flexible sanding strips in your shop, the Dura-Gold Firm and Flex Longboard Sanding Block might become your new favorite smoothing companion. Made of medium-density polyurethane foam and plastic, this bright yellow block strikes a perfect balance between firm and flexible. It’s ideal for smoothing curves of nearly any radius.

Its hand plane-style design (complete with tote and knob) feels natural in the hand, and it uses hook-and-loop sandpaper, meaning you can swap grits in seconds without messy adhesive. For anyone who’s ever fought with spray glue and worn-out sanding strips, this is a serious upgrade.

And if you want to make your own flexible sanding strip instead, here’s a video for you.

Marc’s take: “I’ll never mess around with homemade flexible sanding strips again — longboards are where it’s at.”

JessEm Wood Saber Marking Gauge

Price: $122.99
Where to Purchase: JessEm Tools

As a self-proclaimed marking gauge collector, I was immediately intrigued by the Wood Saber Marking Gauge, a stainless steel and aluminum beauty that weighs just over a pound. It’s built like a tank but feels incredibly comfortable in the hand, especially for those of us with larger hands.

Inside, a spring-loaded ball bearing allows half-inch increments, while the spindle provides micro-adjustments at 1/256th-inch per line. It’s overkill — but in the best possible way. The micro-adjustable precision means you can set an exact measurements with confidence.

Marc says, “This level of precision might be unnecessary for most hand tool users, but it’s just so fun to use. If you’re in the ‘take my money’ crowd, you already know this one’s for you.”

Sponsor Break: Woodcraft’s All-in-One Sharpening System

• Wood River Honing Guide
• Wood River 3 Pc Diamond Stone Set

Keeping your tools sharp is as important as buying them, and Woodcraft makes that easy with their All-in-One Sharpening Solution. The set includes three diamond stones that can be used wet or dry, and each stone is removable for versatility.

Paired with the WoodRiver honing guide, it delivers smooth, controlled bevels in no time. Marc demonstrates the setup on a plane iron, achieving an impressively clean cut in walnut even after just 1,000 grit.

You can find this sharpening kit and plenty more tools to keep your edges crisp at your local Woodcraft store or online at woodcraft.com.

VAD Concepts Roller Guide

Price: $75 (single), $170 (dual set with spacer)
Where to Purchase: VAD Concepts

Designed and made by Matthew Valentine of Michigan, the VAD Concepts Roller Guide is a precision 3D-printed accessory that fits any standard miter slot. It works much like a featherboard, applying spring-loaded pressure to keep your workpiece snug against the fence.

Each roller has about 3/8″ of travel, allowing it to accommodate slightly uneven stock. The tool’s modular design means you can stack rollers for taller workpieces, and they’re even available in a range of colors.

Marc notes the similarity to the Harvey Compass RG-2, a previously reviewed tool, but applauds the VAD version for supporting small independent makers. It’s a versatile, clever solution for safer, smoother cuts.

Dutton Tools Sander Light

Price: $49
Where to Purchase: Dutton Tools

The Sander Light from Dutton Tools, crafted by Josh Hayes in Florida, brings a simple but brilliant idea to life: LED lighting for your sander. Designed for popular sander models, it snaps on easily and projects bright, even light directly on your work surface.

By casting shadows across the grain, it exposes missed sanding marks and surface flaws — especially useful before finishing. Marc found it most effective in dim lighting, mimicking the “raking light” technique used to reveal imperfections.

It comes with a 16-foot power cable (which can be zip-tied alongside your sander cord or hose) and can be detached when not in use. Dutton also makes light kits for the Festool Domino and Lamello, helping improve visibility on precision joinery tools as well.

Marc’s verdict: “If your eyesight isn’t what it used to be, or you just want perfect surface prep, this is a fantastic upgrade.”

The post 4 Clever Tools: Flexible Sanders, A Marking Gauge, Roller Guides, & Sander Lights | Tools Unleashed appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Looking to grab that Bent Lamination course with Philip Morley? Sign Up Today! 

Should I hear wood touching the back of my table saw blade?

Anwer: Ideally, no. In a perfect setup the front of the blade does the cutting and the work exits cleanly past the rear teeth. If you hear scraping or see burning, check for blade flatness, runout, or fence parallelism.

Quick tune up,
1, Align the fence parallel to the blade using a dial indicator or a scrap dowel against the same tooth at the front and back.
2, Make a test cut and listen, look for burning, and feel for contact.
3, If needed, add a tiny amount of toe-out by setting the fence one to three thousandths wider at the back, which will reduce contact with the rear teeth.
4, Avoid the calibration rabbit hole, test cuts tell the truth.

What is a simple way to plan my shop layout?

Answer: Use SketchUp’s free web version. Draw the room footprint, then pull in tool models from 3D Warehouse. If a tool is not available, make a box with the correct footprint and height. Turn tools into components so you can slide them around and try different layouts. Keeping a human scale figure in the model helps you visualize clearances and workflow.

Router table recommendations for a serious upgrade?

Answer: Top tier tables from the usual suspects are all quite good, pick by features that matter to you. Look closely at dust collection, micro-adjustment options, fence design, and total footprint. I have used several premium setups. Micro-adjust is great, but watch for fences that get bulky or mechanisms that limit full depth travel. I am currently moving back to a refined JessEm table to test their latest height wheel, dust box, micro-adjust, and a 3 1/4 HP motor.

Best way to make thin strips around one sixteenth of an inch?

Answer: Use the table saw with a stop, not a planer. Most planers will not go that thin safely, even with a sled. On the saw, set a stop block on the far side of the blade to the exact thickness you want, reference the workpiece to the stop, then move the fence as needed for each cut. You will need to reset between cuts, so expect minor variation, but surfaces will come off the saw cleaner and the process is safer for thin stock. The stop I used in the video is the Magswitch Universal Featherboard Pro.

Bonus Content

• Planing Thin Strips Safely
• Cutting Thin Strips at the Table Saw

How do you choose plugs and receptacles for a wood shop?

Answer: Keep things consistent and think in circuits, not individual tools. I focus on the receptacle standard first, then make sure plugs match. If the prong configuration is the same, the tool will work in that receptacle.

120 volt circuits

• I use NEMA 5-20R receptacles. Any 120 volt tool with a 15 amp or 20 amp plug will fit.

• If your shop has 15 amp circuits, use NEMA 5-15R.

• Do not cut a 20 amp plug and replace it with a 15 amp plug, that is unsafe and will trip breakers or worse.

Wiring for 120 volt

• High draw tools belong on 20 amp circuits, 12 gauge wire, and 20 amp breakers.

• My shop uses 12 gauge across all 120 volt lines with no 15 amp circuits.

240 volt circuits

• NEMA 6-20R for 20 amp tools. If a tool ships without a plug, I install an industrial 6-20, durable and easy to wire.

• NEMA L6-30R for 30 amp ceiling drops, the twist-lock keeps the connection secure overhead.

General Safety Rule: match the whole chain!
Plug, receptacle, wire gauge, and breaker must all be rated for the same amperage. A tool that peaks at 16 amps should be on a 20 amp plug and receptacle, 12 gauge wire, and a 20 amp breaker. Any weak link invites heat and fire risk.

Friendly disclaimer, I am not an electrician. Follow local code and consult a licensed pro when in doubt.

What glue roller do you use?

Answer: Search for a brayer. I use a standard 4-inch brayer with a soft rubber roller and a 4-inch pop-in brayer whose roller removes for easy cleaning. The pop-in loosens a bit with age but mine is about fifteen years old and still works fine. Use them with any glue, just clean them promptly.

Thanks for watching!

If you want to submit questions for a future Ask TWW, join our YouTube Members area or support us on Patreon. I also post short behind-the-scenes clips in a series called Grain of Truth, quick tips, small victories, and a little bit of shop philosophy. Your support means a lot. See you next time.

The post Receptacle Picks, Wiring Tips and Much More | Ask TWW appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Every woodworking project has a story, and this one begins with a bar stool designed for our own kitchen remodel. What started as a personal build soon turned into something much bigger — a design refined through teaching 16 students and building 21 stools in our Firehouse shop.

As we worked through the project together, the design evolved. Small adjustments, like reinforcing the seat joint with two Dominoes instead of one, made the stool safer, stronger, and easier for students to build. These refinements turned the project into a perfect teaching opportunity and laid the foundation for our bar stool woodworking course.

Now, you can follow along with the complete build from start to finish in our professionally filmed online class. The bar stool woodworking course includes detailed video lessons, downloadable plans, and step-by-step guidance so you can build a beautiful, durable stool for your own home. Whether you’re a hobbyist looking to refine your joinery skills or a seasoned woodworker searching for a rewarding project, this course gives you everything you need to succeed.

Join the course today and build your own bar stool with confidence.

Stuff Used in the Video

• Grab a copy of my book, Hybrid Woodworking!
• Get your very own Oreo Plushie! 
• Festool Domino
• 1/8″ Roundover Bit
• Whiteside Ultimate Flush Trim Bit – UDC9112 
• Dowel Jig – I use the JessEm
• Upholstery Stapler
• Double-Sided Tape
• Thin Pry Bar
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue
• Toggle Clamps
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Backside Sandpaper
• Purchase templates here
• Polypropylene Webbing

The post How 15 Students Helped Me Build a Better Barstool appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Sometimes the best woodworking projects don’t start with a fresh pile of lumber — they start with something old and worn out that’s just begging for a second life. In our case, that “something” was a weathered backyard playground that came with our house. It was rickety, faded, and more of an eyesore than a safe play structure. Instead of tearing it down and hauling it off to the dump, I saw an opportunity: what if I could turn this neglected playset into something useful?

That’s how the idea for a raised garden bed from old playground materials was born. By carefully dismantling the playset and sorting through the boards, I was able to salvage solid pieces of lumber. Of course, I had to make sure the wood wasn’t pressure-treated (which can be unsafe for growing food). After some research and testing, I confirmed the boards were untreated and safe to use.

Once I had my materials, it was just a matter of cutting them down to size, building the frame, and securing everything together. The end result? A sturdy, attractive raised garden bed from old playground wood that now produces fresh vegetables — and adds beauty to the yard where an eyesore once stood.

This project was not only about woodworking, but also about sustainability. Upcycling existing materials keeps them out of landfills and gives them a new purpose. It’s proof that with a little creativity and effort, you can transform something useless into something valuable.

Products Used

• Glue Roller
• Titebond 3
• Titebond Instant Bond
• Total Boat High Performance Epoxy
• High Density Filler
• Dark Mission Brown Transtint
• Garden Seal
• JessEm Dowel Jig
• Merle Clamp

Videos References

• Outdoor Finishes Real World Results
• Rubio Durogrit

Special thanks to Kevin over at Epic Gardening for his helpful advice!

By the way, if you’d like to learn more about reclaimed wood, how to use it and what to make with it, check out this article from our sponsor Woodcraft:

Reclaimed Wood Projects & Ideas for Every Skill Level

The post I Turned an Old Playground Into a Raised Garden Bed appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

This project blends style, comfort, and durability into a single build. Marc will guide you through every step, from selecting materials to putting the final finish on your stool. Whether you’re a beginner looking to grow your skills or an experienced woodworker seeking a new challenge, this course will leave you with a beautiful, functional piece of furniture you can be proud of.

What You’ll Learn

• How to design a stool that’s both comfortable and attractive

• Joinery techniques that keep furniture strong for years

• How to shape and sculpt for an ergonomic seat and back

• Tips for working with angled joinery so everything fits perfectly

• Preparing the surface and applying a finish that lasts

By the end, you’ll have the know-how to build a single stool or a matching set for your home.

When It’s Available

The online course will go live September 5, 2025, giving you full access to detailed video lessons and downloadable plans. You can start any time and move at your own pace.

Don’t Want to Build One Yourself?

Marc has made a small batch of up to three finished Counter Height Bar Stools available for purchase.

You can see them here: Counter Height Bar Stool – TWW Store

• Free local pickup

• Shipping available — contact nicole@thewoodwhisperer.com for a quote for crate delivery.

Whether you want to build it yourself or buy one handmade by Marc, this is a great chance to bring a timeless piece into your home.

Reserve Your Spot in the Online Course and save big!

The post Marc’s Counter Height Bar Stool – Now an Online Course! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Sign up for the Counter Height Bar Stool Course!

Let’s face it—there’s no such thing as too many clamps. But finding a place to put them all? That’s the real challenge. In this project, I build a mobile clamp wall that holds 54 parallel clamps, 14 F-style clamps, and 16 pipe/bar clamps—with room to grow. It also features pegboard sides for bonus storage and rolls smoothly around the shop on heavy-duty casters.

The build was done in a weekend using home center materials, with inspiration from Becca from Southern Pine Design. I walk through every step, from cutting outriggers and gluing angled supports to planning clamp layouts and adding shelf brackets strong enough to hold a small car, or at least a ridiculous number of clamps.

This mobile clamp wall is part practical shop upgrade, part excuse to use the phrase “show you my rack” without getting banned from YouTube. If your clamp collection is outgrowing your wall space, or you just want a fun and functional weekend project, this rolling clamp wall might be just what your shop needs.

If you’re looking for alternative options, check out my previous wall-hanging parallel clamp storage solution.

Important Links

• Shelf Brackets
• Wood River F-Style Clamp Rack
• Wood River Pipe Clamp Rack

The post You Need This! (Probably) | Mobile Clamp Wall appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The mantle features a hand-carved “river” design inspired by the Legend of Zelda, specifically of the Rist Peninsula. The client created the initial shape using a Dremel. Before pouring the epoxy, I decided to refine the carving with power carving tools to smooth the edges and even out the depth. After some careful prep and color mixing, I poured the shimmering blue resin, layer by layer, to bring the carved river to life. That is, only after a disastrous start.

Despite some nerves and a few minor mishaps, the end result of my first epoxy pour is a dazzling epoxy-filled Zelda-themed mantle—and a reminder that sometimes saying “yes” to a project outside your wheelhouse can be surprisingly rewarding. And while I made mistakes, I found great value in learning hard lessons just by getting started!

Products Shown in the Video (affiliate links):

• Shabebe Deep Pour Epoxy
• Arm R Seal Satin
• Fuji Spray HVLP Turbine
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Round)
• Carbide Burr (Oval)
• BackSide Sandpaper
• Makrs Stain Pads Use Code TWW for 15% OFF!

If you’re looking for a little more resin inspiration, check out this article from our friends at Woodcraft: Resin Art Ideas & Epoxy Resin in Art Projects

The post My First Epoxy Pour – Mistakes Were Made! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

We are still on a new channel, so help us out so you don’t miss out on any live shows and subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/@thespagshow

We also brought back the After Show! It starts right after The Woodworking Morning Show and runs about 20 minutes just to catch up with you on all the fun

The post Wait? The Woodworking Morning Show? appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Woodcraft and Priority Bicycles

Purchase the Ultrasonic Cleaner shown in this video for only $35! (as of June 2025) – This is an Amazon Affiliate link

Let’s be honest—cleaning saw blades and router bits is one of those shop chores nobody looks forward to. You know it needs to be done, but soaking in degreaser and scrubbing each individual tooth feels more like punishment than maintenance. The mess, the fumes, the procrastination—it all adds up until your “dull” blade turns out to be just dirty and underperforming. In fact, here’s an old video from 2012 showing how I used to do it: How to Clean Blades & Bits

Here’s the deal: if you want your tooling to last and your cuts to stay crisp, regular cleaning is a must. But that doesn’t mean it has to be miserable.

Enter the ultrasonic cleaner!

This little countertop gadget, commonly used for jewelry, bike parts, and car bits, has quietly become the easiest way to clean saw blades & router bits in my shop. It uses high-frequency sound waves to blast away pitch, resin, and gunk, all while you sit back and relax (or let’s be real, go sharpen something else or check Instagram).

Just mix a simple water-based cleaning solution like Zep Industrial or Simple Green Pro, pop your bits or blades into the bath, and let the cleaner do its thing. In 5–10 minutes, your tools come out looking shockingly fresh, with zero scrubbing and no chemical war zone left behind.

In the video, I break down:

• Why gunk buildup causes more issues than you think (hint: heat + friction = damage)

• Why your “dull” blade might just be dirty

• How ultrasonic cleaning works (it’s oddly satisfying)

• What solution and settings I used

• The dramatic before-and-after results that’ll make you rethink your whole cleaning routine

Bottom line? If you’re tired of scraping gunk by hand, the easiest way to clean saw blades & router bits is probably already sitting in someone’s garage—or waiting in your online cart. This simple upgrade has already changed the way I care for my tools, and it might just do the same for you. And remember, after you clean your blades and bits, be sure to coat them with something to protect from rust, like Blade Coat! 

Shown in the Video

Ultrasonic Cleaner ($35 on Amazon as of 6/25)

Zep Industrial Cleaner

Simple Green Pro (This is a good alternative to what I used)

Blade Coat

Larger Ultrasonic Cleaner (This is the one I’d buy if budget wasn’t a concern)

The post The Easiest Way to Clean Saw Blades & Router Bits appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Want your question answered in a video? Join us! Become a YouTube Member  or Become a Patron

On this episode of Ask TWW, we’ll not only see a new trick for taming tearout, but we’ll discuss everything below:

Topics Covered:

Hard Wax Oil on Countertops: Got a worn-out Rubio finish? Just give it a light sanding and reapply. No need to switch products—Rubio’s ease of repair is one of its biggest perks. Want to learn how to apply Rubio (or any hardwax oil) to furniture? Check out this video!

• Natura Onecoat (A cheaper alternative to Rubio)
• Bumblechutes Bee’Nooba Oil/Wax – Save 10% with code TWW10

Skipping Sanding Grits: Can you jump from 120 to 180 grit? Technically yes, but adding 150 grit makes things more efficient and helps avoid swirl marks.

Epoxy for Soft Wood: Penetrating epoxies can toughen up soft woods like cypress. They’re not magic, but they do help.

• Total Boat Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
• Total Boat Table Top Epoxy

Finish as Tear-Out Prevention: Tearout is as old as woodworking. Could there be a new trick for tackling tearout? Someone asked if applying finish firms up the fibers enough to help keep them intact during a cut. Initial tests show a some improvement, but more testing is needed.

Dust Filter Cleaning: Compressed air works, if you’re gentle. Manual tapping helps, too. For a serious upgrade, check out agitators from Myers Woodshop.

• Myer Woodworks Filter Shakers

T1-11 Wall Prep: A quick sanding and optional stain can make shop walls look cleaner and film better on camera—but it’s all personal preference.

• Watco Walnut Danish Oil

Handling Criticism: Whether online or in person, some advice is worth considering… and some you can politely ignore.

Bonus:

Don’t forget to check out my books Essential Joinery and Hybrid Woodworking, available as signed copies from TWWSTore.com Great resources for woodworkers at any level!

The post Can Finish Prevent Tearout? (plus more of your questions!) | Ask TWW appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

In between big furniture builds, I like to spend a little time catching up on shop organization and smaller side projects, like these cutting boards made from scrap wood. In this casual, vlog-style video, I take you along as I refine the shapes, sand the surfaces, laser in the TWW logo, and apply a food-safe finish. Basically, everything I do to finish cutting boards for sale. It’s not a full cutting board build, but a peek behind the scenes at how I prep products for sale and use up valuable leftover material. Plus, a little shop talk, some tips, and probably a cat cameo.

Important Links: (product links are affiliate links and help support the show)

• Cutting boards now available here: TWW Store
• Get some Backside Sandpaper!
• Mahoney’s Walnut Oil
• Mahoney’s Walnut Oil & Wax
• 72″ x 24″ Runner – Great for sanding!
• Powermatic Air Cleaner
• Irrigation Syringes
• Makrs Stain Pads Use Code TWW for 15% OFF!
• (Video) A Better Way to Apply Oil Finishes
• Ryobi Buffer
• Microfiber Buffing Bonnets

The post A Rare Day: I’m Actually Selling My Woodwork! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Hand-Cut Dovetails Through the Eyes of a Beginner

In this instructional session, woodworking expert Rob Cosman guides complete beginner Nicole through cutting her very first set of hand-cut dovetails.

Step-by-Step Process:

• Choose a Layout

  • The lesson begins with planning a two-tailed dovetail joint, which features two tails and three pins.

  • The number of tails and pins is based on joint size and desired strength—more tails increase glue surface area but can weaken the surrounding wood if overdone.

• Understand Joint Strength

  • The strength of the dovetail comes from long grain-to-long grain contact.

  • Each pin and tail meeting contributes to the joint’s integrity, but too many can compromise the structure.

• Prepare Your Stock

  • Rob emphasizes the importance of starting with perfectly square and flat boards.

  • A misaligned board will lead to a poorly fitting joint—especially critical when making drawers or boxes where all corners must align.

• Use a Shooting Board

  • Instead of squaring by hand in a vise, Rob introduces the shooting board for accurate 90° ends.

  • This jig holds the board and plane in alignment, making it easier to square edges cleanly and consistently.

  • Check that the plane blade is parallel to the sole before shooting—this ensures consistent material removal across the face.

• Tool Fundamentals

  • Nicole is taught to sight down the tool and make adjustments based on visual cues—an essential skill in hand-tool woodworking.

• Practice and Patience

  • Rob stresses the importance of technique over speed, encouraging Nicole to focus on accuracy and clean results rather than rushing through cuts.

  • Once the technique is sound, woodworkers can shift focus to the aesthetic balance of the joint.

Bonus Tips for Beginners:

• Don’t start cutting until your boards are square and true.

• Layout decisions should balance strength and appearance.

• Use jigs like a shooting board to simplify precision tasks.

• Evaluate your plane before use—setup matters as much as skill.

The post She Never Cut a Dovetail Before – This Is What Happened appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The post The Woodworking Morning Show for May 9th, 2025 – Big Announcement! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

And be sure to check out Priority Bicycles for the most reliable low maintenance bikes you’ll ever own.

Important Links

• Backside Sandpaper
• JessEm Doweling Jig
• Aeon Laser

If your garage is slowly being swallowed by a tangle of bicycle helmets, you’re not alone. With cycling becoming a bigger part of my life (and my family’s), the helmet situation was getting out of control. Between kids and multiple bikes per person, we had helmets piled up like a two-wheeled yard sale.

So, I teamed up with my friends at Priority Bicycles and Xtracycle to build a practical, good-looking piano style helmet rack that finally brings order to the chaos. And like many of my favorite projects, I didn’t start with a solid plan—just a need, some wood, and a vague idea of what I wanted it to look like.

This wall-mounted helmet rack is designed with form and function in mind. It features individual slots for each helmet, a clean aesthetic that complements the garage (or any home), and simple construction using basic tools and materials. It’s perfect for families who ride together and want to keep their gear organized.

Want to make one yourself? Watch the video for the full build process, tips, and plenty of design improvisation along the way. Your garage—and your head—will thank you.

The post A Great Way to Store Bike Helmets (or Coats!) appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Looking for a woodworking show that’s equal parts educational, entertaining, and a little silly? Tune in to The Woodworking Morning Show with Marc and Nicole Spagnuolo! Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just getting started with sawdust and glue, this live-streamed show brings you:

* Real woodworking advice – From tool talk to shop tips, get practical info from a 20+ years master craftsman (Marc) that you can actually use in your own projects.

* Laid-back laughs – It’s not all chisels and clamps. Expect plenty of jokes, banter, and behind-the-scenes moments that’ll make you feel like you’re hanging out in the shop with friends.

* Live Q&A – Got a burning woodworking question? Ask it live and get answers right on the show! Or join patreon or YouTube members and preload your question on our post we make every Wednesday.

* Community connection – Join a welcoming crew of fellow woodworkers and hobbyists who tune in every week to chat, learn, and support one another.

* Giveaways & goodies – Stick around for surprise giveaways, product spotlights, and other fun treats.

Whether you’re watching live or catching the replay, The Woodworking Morning Show is the perfect mix of shop talk and shenanigans to kickstart your weekend.

Support us directly and buy some swag, plans or books! All of it comes directly from us! https://twwstore.com

Make amazing pieces of furniture with the guidance of master woodworkers in The Wood Whisperer Guild
http://thewoodwhispererguild.com

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post The Woodworking Morning Show for May 2nd, 2025 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Looking for a woodworking show that’s equal parts educational, entertaining, and a little silly? Tune in to The Woodworking Morning Show with Marc and Nicole Spagnuolo! Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just getting started with sawdust and glue, this live-streamed show brings you:

* Real woodworking advice – From tool talk to shop tips, get practical info from a 20+ years master craftsman (Marc) that you can actually use in your own projects.

* Laid-back laughs – It’s not all chisels and clamps. Expect plenty of jokes, banter, and behind-the-scenes moments that’ll make you feel like you’re hanging out in the shop with friends.

* Live Q&A – Got a burning woodworking question? Ask it live and get answers right on the show! Or join patreon or YouTube members and preload your question on our post we make every Wednesday.

* Community connection – Join a welcoming crew of fellow woodworkers and hobbyists who tune in every week to chat, learn, and support one another.

* Giveaways & goodies – Stick around for surprise giveaways, product spotlights, and other fun treats.

Whether you’re watching live or catching the replay, The Woodworking Morning Show is the perfect mix of shop talk and shenanigans to kickstart your weekend.

Support us directly and buy some swag, plans or books! All of it comes directly from us! https://twwstore.com

Check out the NEW Guild+ https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/subscription/

Would you like your questions pre-loaded into the show? Join our YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw/join or Patreon http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer. and look for the Wednesday question post!

Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer! https://thewoodwhisperer.com/newsletter/

The post The Woodworking Morning Show for April 25, 2025 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

You can save 5% on your CNC purchase at Next Wave CNC using my code WHISPERER5%

So, something a little different today—a bit more vlog-style and casual, as I walk you through assembling a brand new CNC in the shop. If you’ve been around a while, you might remember I had a CNC setup back in the Colorado shop. But when we moved, I had to downsize… significantly. The CNC didn’t make the cut. If you’d like to check out a couple of videos featuring the old CNC, try these: Fortnite Sign and End Table Deep Dive

Honestly, I’ve kind of regretted selling it ever since.

At the time, it made sense. We weren’t sure how long we’d be without a proper shop, and I was cramming everything into a tiny garage. Some of the non-essential big toys had to go. But now that we’re settled, I’m diving back into the CNC world—this time with the Next Wave HD544.

This is a 4×4 unit that requires some assembly, which I actually appreciate. There’s something to be said for putting your tools together yourself—especially when it comes to understanding how they work. It makes troubleshooting and maintenance a whole lot easier down the road.

Where’s It Going?

I’m planning to set this up in the second bay of the shop—what I like to think of as the “maker space” area. It’s kind of the catch-all for tools that aren’t traditional woodworking gear: the laser, 3D printers, and now the CNC. This space has always been for overflow and storage of random stuff, but I think it’s finally found its calling.

As for the table? My first instinct was to build a low cabinet as a stand, but this space is still evolving and I don’t yet know what my future needs will be—not just for the CNC, but for all the gear that will live in this area. So I picked up a heavy-duty 56″ Rockler Rock-Steady Shop Stand. It’s sturdy, mobile, and flexible—perfect for this kind of setup.

Work-holding?

For the spoilboard, I decided to go with MicroJig’s CNC Workholding Kit.  The kit comes with numerous work-holding fixtures and devices that will keep just about any workpiece secure under the pressure of a CNC cut. This means I’ll be using far less double-sided tape, which is always music to my ears. And because the components are made of plastic, contact with a CNC bit won’t be the end of the world. To accommodate this system, however, I first needed to cut a 4″ x 4″ grid of MatchFit dovetail grooves. With the grid in place, the work-holding gadgets can easily slide around the entire table for positioning.

The post Shop Evolution Continues | Next Wave HD544 CNC Assembly appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Whether you’re watching live or catching the replay, The Woodworking Morning Show is the perfect mix of shop talk and shenanigans to kickstart your weekend.

Support us directly and buy some swag, plans or books! All of it comes directly from us! https://twwstore.com
Who is Marc Spagnuolo? Watch Behind the Scenes with a YouTube veteran and find out!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htZVfB4z2l8 –~–
Check out the NEW Guild+ https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/subscription/

Would you like your questions pre-loaded into the show? Join our YouTube Members at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw/join or Patreon http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer. and look for the Wednesday question post!

Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer! https://thewoodwhisperer.com/newsletter/

Make amazing pieces of furniture with the guidance of master woodworkers in The Wood Whisperer Guild
http://thewoodwhispererguild.com

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post The Woodworing Morning Show for April 11 2025 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

But I finally had enough—and built a solution.

Introducing the Under Table Saw Storage Cabinet: a sleek, super-functional storage unit with 6 roomy drawers and dedicated spots for all your saw stuff—blades, push sticks, featherboards, throat plates, even brakes (SawStop folks, I got you).

If you like what you see in this video, checkout my 10-video course. You’ll learn solid cabinet-building skills and pick up some clever organization hacks along the way. It’s practical, it’s fun, and it might even inspire you to tackle that other corner of chaos in the shop.

GET THE COURSE!

The post A Game-Changer in my Shop – Under Table Saw Storage Cabinet appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video, our live show or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer! https://thewoodwhisperer.com/newsletter/

00:00 Technical Flubs and New Camera Setup
00:43 Morning Greetings and Tech Blame Game
01:00 Tech Love and Relationship Banter
01:37 Concert Night: Jack White Experience
02:32 Concert Pit Adventures
03:32 European Style Dining and Late Night Effects
04:34 Missouri Thank Yous and YouTube Members
06:03 Wood Talk and Long-Time Supporters
06:21 April 4th: Birthdays and Tell a Lie and Ramen Day
07:07 David Marcs’ Artwork and Store https://djmarks.com/product-category/art/
08:58 Costa Rica T-Shirt and Tool Swap Event
09:34 Woodcraft Tool Swap and Shop Details https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/store-events/st-louis
12:15 Video Release: Budget-Friendly Workbench https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFTnNtRuGjs
14:36 National Ramen Day and Wood Talk Episode
15:02 Woodworking Blue Balls and Sponsor Conversations https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DiZDvezAN0
15:57 Lost Treasure: Personalized Jewelry
19:41 Hand Tool Drip Campaign and Certificates
21:50 Check out Nicole’s interview with the Workshop Therapy Podcast https://www.patreon.com/posts/who-knew-that-of-125890515
23:21 3M Work Tunes Pro Connect Review https://amzn.to/420YZOB
27:22 Amazon Gift Card Giveaway https://www.instagram.com/p/DH36J7cJfOG/?img_index=1
30:23 Quilt Rack Project and Viewer Showcase
36:19 Sharpening Methods and Tools https://amzn.to/3E7K4c4
37:57 Hide Glue vs. Traditional Glue https://amzn.to/4jfqoBV
39:18 Old Projects and Concert Reflections
39:40 Cool Concerts for Formerly Cool People
39:47 Reflecting on Coolness
40:08 Merch Table Ideas
40:43 John Popovich’s Vice Question
41:36 Raphael’s Blanket Chest
42:20 Revisiting Old Projects
43:12 Teaching and Skill Development
43:33 Iterative Design Process
44:23 Legacy of Early Work
45:06 Advice for Beginners
45:46 Social Media and Skill Comparison
46:20 Run Your Own Race
46:56 Shop Visitors
48:39 Girl Scout Cookies
51:32 Tool Swap Event
52:50 Baggy Jeans and Nerve Pain
54:55 Band Stories
01:08:36 Shop Consultations https://twwstore.com/collections/services
01:08:55 Final Questions
01:11:12 Woodpeckers Dado Nut
01:11:37 Fiber Internet Installation
01:11:53 Show Setup at Home
01:12:54 Tick Season
01:13:51 Video Quality Discussion
01:15:29 Concluding Remarks and Goodbyes

Take a woodworking class online with The Wood Whisperer
http://thewoodwhispererguild.com

SUPPORT US ON PATREON!
http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post The Woodworking Morning Show for April 4, 2025 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

That’s when I realized I needed to build some new workbenches. But not just any benches—I wanted something compact, storable, cost-effective, and quick to build (because I had to make four of them… fast). After some research and a whole lot of plywood, I came up with a design that checked all the boxes.

Want this plan and access to all the other free and paid plans from TheWoodWhisperer.com? Grab our convenient USB stick here: https://twwstore.com/products/twwplansusbstick

Why I Designed This Workbench

Storage space in my shop is always at a premium, so whatever I built had to be small enough to tuck away when not in use. I also wanted mobility so we could rearrange the space depending on what we were doing. And of course, it had to be something I could build multiple times without losing my mind (though I definitely tested that theory). The final design is simple, sturdy, and gets the job done—perfect for students or anyone working in a small space.

The Build Breakdown

• Plywood Base: I used laminated plywood for all the base components. It’s strong, heavy, and affordable—especially if you go with shop-grade material. Credit to Rob Cosman and the Purple Heart Project for the inspiration here.

• MDF Top: I went with three layers of 1″ MDF. It’s flat, stable, and cheap—perfect for a functional benchtop. You could absolutely use 3/4″ plywood (I recommend 4 layers) or solid wood (if you want an upgrade).

• Knockdown Design: This base comes apart using bolts and dowels, so it’s easy to disassemble and store. I only glued the dowels into the rails, which makes reassembly simple and consistent.

• Casters: I used workbench casters that are super easy to engage and disengage. With four of these benches rolling around the shop, that flexibility is a lifesaver.

Yes, I Splurged on the Vise

Okay, here’s the deal: Andy Klein’s Twin Turbo Vise costs more than the rest of the bench combined. But Andy’s a good friend, we worked out a deal, and honestly, I just wanted the students to have an awesome experience. A good vise can make or break your time at the bench. But don’t worry—you can absolutely use a different vise if you want.

I even have a coupon code if you do want to grab a Twin Turbo Vise: WHISPERER20 gets you 20% off vises at In-Kleind.com.

Building Tips and Real Talk

• Cut List Strategy: The plans I offer are designed to be material-efficient, but you don’t have to follow them to the letter. Cut your plywood down into manageable chunks and do your final rips at the table saw.

• Setup Blocks Are Your Friend: They make layout faster and more consistent than a tape measure.

• Be Strategic With Tools: If you don’t have a full-length track saw, no problem. Just plan your cuts based on what you do have.

• Hold-Downs Help: I used JessEm hold-downs for consistent, safe cuts. But feather boards or board buddies work too—or just go old-school and push carefully.

• Staple with Purpose: I used narrow crown staples to speed things up, but you need to plan ahead so you don’t accidentally drill or cut through them later.

Let’s be real: laminating all those plywood parts eight times over was a grind. I powered through with caffeine and mild existential dread, but it got done.

Assembly and Final Touches

Once the base was built, I rounded over the edges, drilled the bolt and dowel holes, and fitted everything together. For three of the benches, I used large dominoes instead of knockdown hardware because I knew they’d be staying assembled permanently.

Then it was on to the tops—three layers of MDF glued together. I used my vacuum press to save time, but you could use screws and clamps just as effectively. Once the tops were squared and attached, I installed the vises.

A Note on Stability

To install the Twin Turbo Vise, I needed a big overhang on the front. That’s not ideal—it means you can tip the bench forward with enough pressure. So I just tossed a dumbbell on the bottom shelf during class and that worked fine. But if you’re building one of these from scratch, consider adjusting the base to support the vise more directly and reduce that overhang.

Still to Come…

I didn’t have time to fully finish the benches before the classes started, but I do plan to:

• Add a bottom shelf

• Wipe on a protective finish

• Line the vise jaws with rubberized cork (I highly recommend the stuff Andy sells—it’s fantastic)

• Consider wrapping bench top with solid wood

Want to Build One?

You can grab the cut list and measurements at TWWStore.com. And if you want to dive deeper into workbenches, check out the two full workbench builds I offer in the Wood Whisperer Guild: the Split-Top Roubo (our most popular course), and the Hybrid Workbench, which blends high function with a smaller footprint.

Thanks for checking out the build! Hopefully it gives you some inspiration for your own shop setup.

Important Links:

• THIS OFFER HAS EXPIRED Use my code WHISPERER20 to get 20% off any Twin Turbo Vise at In-Kleind.com
• Pre-order the Tablesaw Cabinet Course
• Get the measurements and plans
• Split-Top Roubo Course
• Hybrid Workbench Course
• Learn more about the Bench Brigade 
• Rich Hedman’s video on his workbench

Suff You’ll Need:

• Workbench Casters
• Cross Dowel Bolts
• 1/4-20 Tee Nuts
• 3/4″ WoodOwl Auger Bit
• Jessem Clear-Cut Guides 
• Microjig GrrRipper
• Titebond Hide Glue
• Narrow Crown Stapler 
• Glue Roller 
• Woodpeckers Drill Guide 

The post Small workshop? Tight budget? Here’s a workbench for you! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

00:00 Good Morning!
01:09 Spring Break Chaos
01:46 Schitt’s Creek Reference
02:02 Woodworking Morning Show Begins
02:16 Audience Appreciation
02:34 Live Questions and Super Chat
03:39 Patreon Supporters Shoutout
05:43 It’s National Hot Tub Day
05:51 Hot Tub Debate aka People Soup
07:55 Ryan Smith’s Custom Sign https://www.smithmakes.com/
09:05 Smith Makes and Class Posters
11:06 Maverick Abrasives Skincare Gift :)
13:20 3D Printing and Fidget Star
13:52 Wood Whisperer Store Updates https://twwstore.com
14:42 Home DIY Bike Repair Space
16:13 California Compressor Issues
17:22 Wall Control and Craft Room
18:07 CNC Workholding System
19:15 Table Saw Cabinet Pre-Order
23:03 Subscription and Customer Service
28:55 Guild Jewelry Box Question
30:30 Cleaning and Organizing Old Shop
30:30 Super Chat from Tristan
34:19 Super Chat from Eoen
34:53 Crafting a Serving Tray from a Wine Box
35:14 Choosing the Right Finish for Engraved Surfaces
35:32 Tips for Applying Lacquer
36:24 Alternative Finishes: Shellac
36:38 Sports Talk: Mike and Mad Dog
36:48 Discussing Sports Preferences
37:36 Building a Hybrid Workbench https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/the-hybrid-workbench/
38:00 Workbench Height Considerations
38:50 Testing Workbench Height in the Kitchen
39:29 Vision and Glasses Discussion
41:26 Making a Sofa Arm Table
42:12 Rubio Finish for Furniture
42:31 SCM Bandsaw vs. Minimax 16
45:09 Table Saw Storage Project is out for pre-order https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/table-saw-cabinet/
46:43 Wood Talk Podcast Updates https://woodtalkshow.com/
47:10 Wood Talk Podcast Future Plans
47:31 Health Challenges and Work Balance
49:38 The Importance of Community and Joy
53:28 Antique Tools and Personal Preferences
54:32 Nicole’s Hallmark Ornaments and Personal Joys https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18385298044064571/
01:02:03 Girl Scout Cookies and Shop Visit https://thewoodwhisperer.com/tww-shop/
01:04:16 Laser Setup and Local Help
01:05:35 Sharpening Hand Plane Blades
01:07:27 Boom-Based Dust Collection
01:14:07 Final Thoughts and Farewell

Support us directly and buy some swag! It comes directly from us! https://twwstore.com/collections/apparel

Who is Marc Spagnuolo? Watch Behind the Scenes with a YouTube veteran and find out!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htZVfB4z2l8 –~–
Check out all of the NEW benefits in Guild+ https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/subscription/

Would you like your questions pre-loaded into the show? Join our YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw/join or Patreon http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer. and look for the Wednesday question post!

Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer! https://thewoodwhisperer.com/newsletter/

The post The Woodworking Morning Show for March 28, 2025 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

1. Violin Maker’s Plane

The Lee Nielsen Violin Maker’s Plane may be tiny, but it’s a powerhouse when it comes to detailed work. Its solid bronze body and fully adjustable blade make it a go-to for refining edges, breaking corners, and working on small parts where a full-size block plane would be cumbersome. Whether you’re softening drawer edges or working in tight spaces, this mini plane is a joy to use.

Why It’s Essential:

• Perfect for breaking edges with subtle precision.
• Small enough to fit into tight corners inside drawers.
• Compact and comfortable in hand, making it easy to control.

2. Veritas Medium Router Plane

A router plane is indispensable for cleaning up dados, hinge mortises, and fine joinery adjustments. While full-size models are great for general work, the Veritas Medium Router Plane is ideal for getting into small spaces where precision is key.

What Makes It Special:

• Small footprint allows for better maneuverability in tight areas.
• Blade can be reversed for extended reach.
• Compatible with full-size Veritas router plane blades, making it a versatile addition to your toolkit.

3. Trim Router (Compact Router)

Despite its small size, a trim router (also called a compact router or laminate trimmer) is an incredibly useful power tool. It’s great for light edge profiling, shallow mortises, and flush-trimming tasks. Battery-powered models, like the Milwaukee compact router, provide cordless convenience, making them even more versatile.

Key Benefits:

• Lightweight and easy to maneuver for edge profiling.
• Interchangeable bases for increased flexibility.
• Cordless versions allow for unrestricted movement around the shop.

4. 7-Inch Modeler’s Rasp

For shaping and refining contours, a 7-inch modeler’s rasp is a must-have. Unlike traditional files, a quality rasp is designed to cut cleanly through wood, leaving behind a smooth surface without excessive tearing. This small but aggressive rasp is ideal for shaping sculpted parts, rounding over edges, and refining details in carved work.

Why It Belongs in Your Shop:

• Compact size makes it easy to control.
• Sharp teeth remove material efficiently without excessive roughness.
• Great for shaping small parts or adding subtle curves to projects.

5. 4-Inch Combination Square

A 4-inch combination square may seem insignificant compared to its larger counterparts, but it’s one of the most frequently used measuring tools in the shop. Whether checking for square, laying out joinery, or setting blade heights, this small square is always within reach.  Hillview Wood & Metal

How It Improves Workflow:

• Ideal for small-scale layout work.
• Perfect for checking board squareness and tool setups.
• Small enough to keep handy at all times.

Why Small Tools Matter

While large machines and heavy-duty tools often take the spotlight, these small tools prove that sometimes, bigger isn’t always better. Their compact size, precision, and ease of use make them indispensable in a well-equipped woodshop. Plus, they bring a certain joy to woodworking—because let’s face it, using tools that feel good in the hand makes shop time even more enjoyable.

What are your favorite small tools that you just can’t live without? Let us know in the comments!

Look for Guild+? Check it out here!

The post Small But Mighty: 5 Woodworking Tools You Didn’t Know You Needed! 💡 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The Plan: A Full Window Trim Makeover

I knew we wanted to ditch the shutters, and shades seemed like the best replacement. But not just any shades—smart motorized shades! Enter today’s sponsor, SmartWings, but we’ll get into that later. First, I had to tackle the window trim.

When I removed the shutters, I found that the windows had drywall returns. That meant I had a choice: slap some new trim over the existing drywall or go full-send by removing the drywall returns and making new ones as part of the window casing. Naturally, I chose the harder route in the name of quality.

Designing and Building the New Window Casing

To ensure a clean, professional look, I designed a two-frame system:

• The jamb frame sits against the window.
• The outer casing frame sits on top for a finished look.

Since nothing is ever perfectly square in a retrofit, I left a small gap that would later be covered with trim. I milled poplar for the job (since it would be painted) and carefully cut each piece to size.

One detail I paid extra attention to was the casing width. Because the windows are tall, I made the top and bottom rails slightly wider than the vertical stiles for a balanced look—just like on high-end doors.

Assembly and Installation

The jamb frame went together with butt joints, glue, and 18-gauge brads, ensuring everything stayed square. The casing was assembled with Dominos for extra strength because one of my biggest pet peeves is trim that separates over time.

Before installing the frames, I sanded and painted everything—primer plus two coats of paint. The biggest challenge? Waiting for the paint to dry when all I wanted was to get these things installed!

Once dry, the frames went in, but not without a little persuasion. Some old caulk and drywall mud buildup caused small gaps, but a quick pass with the sander fixed that. Instead of relying on caulk to hide imperfections, I used thin trim strips for a cleaner, more professional finish.

The Finishing Touch: Smart Motorized Shades

To complete the project, we installed SmartWings motorized shades in a 70% light-filtering white fabric. Ordering was simple, and the shades came with everything needed for installation, including mounting brackets, a remote, and a solar charging strip.

Setup was a breeze:

1. Attach the brackets to the window frame.
2. Click the shade into place.
3. Connect the solar strip to keep the battery charging.
4. Program the remote to control all five shades individually or together.

With Matter compatibility, these shades integrate seamlessly with Apple HomeKit, Alexa, and other smart home systems. I even set up automations so that:

• Morning sun is blocked just enough for comfortable breakfast lighting.
• Later in the morning, the shades fully open to give my plants some sun.
• In the evening, the shades close completely for privacy.
• Voice control lets me adjust the shades on command.

Final Thoughts

This project was a total success! We now have beautiful, custom window trim and smart shades that enhance both privacy and convenience. Even our dog, Abby, approves—she still gets a clear view to keep an eye on those pesky squirrels!

A huge thanks to SmartWings for sponsoring this upgrade, and to all of you for following along! If you’re considering a similar project, I highly recommend upgrading to smart shades—it’s a game-changer.s

Stuff Featured in the Video:

• Festool Domino 500
• Milwaukee Trim Router
• Timbermate Wood Filler
• Titebond Speed Set

The post Upgrading Our Windows: DIY Custom Casings & Smart Motorized Shades! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The Problem: A Fireplace That Did Nothing

Our basement family room had a lot going for it—except for one glaring issue. It wasn’t wired for surround sound, and there was no good place for the all-important center channel speaker. The main culprit? A cheap electric fireplace that:

• Made more noise than heat
• Looked realistic… but only when it was turned off
• Took up prime real estate where my speaker should have been

One day, curiosity got the best of me, and I tugged at the fireplace. Surprise! It wasn’t even secured. It was just sitting there, mocking me. That unexpected discovery gave me the perfect opportunity to run the speaker wires I needed. But it still left me with a dilemma—where would the speaker go?

The Solution: A Custom Wooden Insert

Enter my brilliant wife, Nicole, who suggested the obvious answer: get rid of the fireplace entirely and replace it with a built-in wooden insert. And thus, a project was born.

Designing the Insert

I jumped into SketchUp to design a simple but sturdy box that would fit snugly into the alcove. Nothing fancy—just a well-constructed plywood case with a walnut face frame to class things up.

Choosing Materials

For this project, I treated myself to some high-quality materials:

• ¾” and ¼” walnut plywood – Pricey, but hey, sometimes the cobbler’s kids actually get shoes.
• Solid walnut for the face frame – Because if I’m doing this, I’m doing it right.

Building the Insert

1. Cut the plywood pieces – Two long pieces for the top and bottom, plus shorter side panels. And one piece of 1/4″ for the back.
2. Assembly – Glue, brads, and 90-degree clamps kept everything square.
3. Face frame – I used my Domino joiner for extra strength and alignment.
4. Finishing – A classic combo of Seal-a-Cell and Arm-R-Seal for a rich, durable walnut glow.

Installing and Wiring

With the insert finished, I took care of some bonus upgrades:

• Ran speaker wires and installed a low-voltage bracket for the center channel
• Added extra electrical outlets because future me will thank past me
• Secured the insert in place and even threw in an LED smart light strip for a little extra flair

The Final Result

The new insert fits like a glove (cue the Ace Ventura reference). It’s sleek, functional, and—best of all—it doesn’t pretend to be a real fireplace. Now the center channel speaker sits exactly where it should, and our home theater setup is finally complete…

…except now the built-ins next to the alcove look terrible. But hey, that’s a project for another day.

Until next time—happy building!

• Makrs Stain Pads Use Code TWW for 15% OFF!
• Milwaukee 18 Gauge Brad Nailer
• Domino 500 Joiner
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue
• Wood Whisperer Guild Courses
• Seal-a-Cell
• Arm-R-Seal

The post Replacing My Electric Fireplace with a Custom Built-In appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

• Gorilla Gripper
• Rockler Material Mate Panel Cart
• Festool Mobile Sawing Table
• Festool Track Saw and Guide Rail

Looking for a great way to store plywood in a small shop space? Check this out! 

Safe and Efficient Ways to Handle Sheet Goods in Your Workshop

Handling sheet goods like plywood and MDF can be a daunting task, especially as we age or deal with back issues. These materials are essential for many projects due to their stability and cost-effectiveness, but purchasing, transporting, and maneuvering them around your shop can be a real challenge. In this article, I’ll share my approach to managing plywood, from picking it up and transporting it to cutting it down, with back safety in mind.

Why Handling Sheet Goods Can Be a Pain

As much as I appreciate the value of plywood and MDF, the process of handling these large, heavy panels can strain your body—particularly your back. If you suffer from acute or chronic back issues, lifting and moving sheet goods improperly can worsen your condition. That’s why it’s important to have strategies in place to avoid unnecessary stress and strain. While this is not medical advice, the techniques I use help minimize the impact on my back, and I hope you can apply some of these methods to suit your own needs.

Preparing Your Shop and Body for the Task

Before you even leave for the lumber yard, take a few simple precautions to ensure a smoother process:

1. Check the Weather: If you’re transporting plywood in an open vehicle, make sure there’s no rain or snow in the forecast. Getting caught in bad weather can lead to rushed, unsafe unloading situations.
2. Clear the Path: It’s crucial to have a clear path in your shop before unloading heavy materials. You don’t want to waste energy moving clutter around when you’re trying to get the plywood into place.
3. Stretching: I can’t stress enough how important stretching is before lifting plywood. Twisting, bending, and lifting are part of the process, and these actions can easily strain your back if you aren’t prepared. I use a foam roller and some exercises I learned from a physical therapist to help loosen up before I tackle the job.

Choosing the Right Transport

When it comes to transporting sheet goods, a pickup truck is my vehicle of choice. Most lumber yards will assist with loading, but always ask if you’re unsure. I prefer to load the plywood with the tailgate up to let gravity help hold the sheets in place. For larger loads, I use ratchet straps to secure the sheets and prevent them from shifting during transport.

Unloading and Moving Plywood Safely

Once you’re back in your shop, unloading and moving plywood requires thoughtful technique:

• Using a Cart: If I plan to cut plywood at a raised position, such as on an assembly table, I use a small cart to move the sheet over. This method works well if you have the floor space to maneuver the cart around.
• Lifting and Carrying the Plywood: For cutting on the floor, I avoid the cart and simply carry the sheet. To make this easier, I place a rug or rubber mat on the floor to protect the sheet and prevent it from sliding. I then lift the sheet by gripping it firmly (with gloves for a better grip) and using my legs, not my back, to lift. By keeping the sheet close to my torso, the weight is better supported by my center of gravity, which reduces strain on my back.

Cutting Plywood on the Floor vs. Elevated Surfaces

A common piece of advice is to cut sheet goods on an elevated surface to avoid straining your back. While this may work for some, I personally find cutting on the floor much easier and less taxing on my body. By keeping the plywood close to the ground, I have better control of my body position and the saw, which minimizes stress on my back. Of course, if you have knee problems, this method may not work for you. In that case, knee pads can help cushion your knees while you work.

Tools and Gadgets for Handling Plywood

There are various tools and gadgets designed to make handling plywood easier, but many rely on the sheet being laid flat in a horizontal position. I prefer to keep my plywood vertical as much as possible, but if you do need horizontal storage, some options include:

• Panel Carrying Gadgets: There are tools that allow you to lift plywood with hooks or straps, some with wheels for easier transport. These can be effective but require the sheet to be positioned horizontally.
• The Gorilla Gripper: My go-to gadget is the Gorilla Gripper, which helps lift plywood from the long edge. While it works well for most situations, it can be less comfortable than lifting the sheet close to my body, as the arms can get strained when the sheet is off-center. It’s useful, but I still prefer my manual lifting method in many cases.

Other Helpful Tips for Managing Sheet Goods

For those with limited space or just looking for ways to streamline their workflow, using a plywood cart from brands like Rockler or Festool can be a game-changer. These carts elevate the plywood, making it easier to handle. However, if you don’t need the elevation, these carts might not be as helpful.

In my setup, I rely on cutting tracks to break down larger sheets into smaller, more manageable pieces, which I then bring to my table for final assembly. This method keeps things efficient and reduces the risk of injury.

Conclusion

Handling sheet goods doesn’t have to be a back-breaking task. With the right strategies and techniques, you can safely transport, move, and cut plywood and MDF without putting undue strain on your body. Whether you prefer cutting on the floor or using a cart, the key is to find a system that works for you. If you have similar health concerns, I hope some of these tips help make your shop work a little easier and safer.

And if you have other tips for managing sheet goods with health concerns in mind, I’d love to hear about them in the comments!

The post The Easiest Way to Handle Plywood Without Breaking Your Back! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Links in order of appearance:

• Meditation Pillow
• American Green Lights
• Aputure 600x Light
• Aputure Lantern
• Barrina Shop Lights
• Make Your Own DIY Acoustic Panels
• Canon c70
• Atomos Ninja Monitor
• Sony Lav Mic
• Shotgun Mic
• Canon R6 
• Tripod Dolly
• DJI RSC2 Gimbal
• Magnetic Phone Mount
• Doghouse Systems
• Focusrite Scarlett USB Interface
• Corded Lav Mic
• Get some Wood Whisperer merch at TWWStore.com
• Take a woodworking course in the Guild! 

The post Behind the Scenes with a Youtube Veteran appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Whenever I take on a repair, my first step is always a thorough inspection. In addition to the obvious damage, it’s important to check for previous repairs, as they can offer valuable insights for the current fix.

In this case, I found at least two prior breaks, one of which had been repaired with a dowel and appeared to be holding well. The current break, however, was in a new location.

After evaluating the damage, I concluded that crafting a new leg or leg portion would be the best solution. But for a quicker fix, I opted for epoxy to glue the broken pieces back together. While this isn’t a permanent solution, it should give the chair several more years of use.

With a bit of cleanup and color matching, the repair blends in well. I’m confident the chair’s owner will be pleased with the results.

Stuff I Used

• West System Epoxy With Pumps Kit 
• High Density 404 Filler
• Total Boat Epoxy Kit w/ Pumps

#sponsored Be sure to visit Norfolk Wood Shop

Use the below codes at checkout:

HOOTWHISPERER: 10% OFF – Can be used on existing sales and clearance items, but not on machines, gift shop items, or classes

GRANDHOOTWHISPER: 20% OFF Grand Wood Finishes 16oz sizes of Hardwax Oil, Finishing Oil, and Hemp Oil *Can be used once per customer. Offers expire January 11th, 2025

The post I Gave This Up Years Ago | Chair Repair appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Some of our Amazon Black Friday finds! https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer/list/3LO3RFEF8Q5DT?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d Check out the NEW Guild+ https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/subscription/ Would you like your questions pre-loaded into the show? Join our YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKp44bWWZIiOPShPN_ytShw/join or Patreon http://patreon.com/woodwhisperer

The post The Woodworking Morning Show Dec 13, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Some of our Amazon Recommendations!

00:00:00 Good Morning! It’s the Woodworking Morning Show
00:00:47 Our festive gear – Make it Snow https://amzn.to/3VuwiG4
00:01:50 Marc did a Guild+ Demo last night called What’s the Deal with Wood
00:02:44 The holiday season is going by fast this year
00:03:22 If you can join us live, ask us questions in the chat!
00:03:38 One week left until Frank Strazza’s Marquetry class releases! Get the best price with the bundle
00:06:15 Preview Party on Thursday!
00:07:24 You are ready for the Guild! https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/
00:07:38 Ashley Harwood Guild+ Interview
00:08:11 Duggee Painting Reveal https://www.instagram.com/evanlaettner/
00:10:53 Help I have woodworms!
00:12:11 Question from Ken – Is there a place in the hobbyist shop for a jointer plane?
00:14:38 Kizzy explains the bugs are powder post beetles
00:15:13 Marc is sloppy with his wood
00:16:02 Question from juelli327 – What steps do I take to fix my new walnut island after using the flooding method with Real Milk Paint Co Half & Half?!
00:20:47 David had a similar issue with oil curing
00:22:10 Are there different hardnesses to the carbide for helical planer blades?
00:23:06 Can you speed up the cure time by placing it in a high O2 environment?
00:24:38 Question from NiceLikeIceOverRice – Have you ever tried a thicker style of card scraper before?
00:26:56 Our Mouse Scrapers
00:27:41 Sorry Doug the video cut out
00:27:55 Question from Fredrick – How do you sharpen your knives and chisels? https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/my-sharpening-system/ and https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/cheap-effective-chisel-sharpening-scary-sharp/
00:29:04 Shapton Waterstones https://amzn.to/49s5eNk
00:29:21 Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) Sharpening Stone https://amzn.to/4iqmwP2
00:29:32 Question from Tim about Hide Glue
00:32:22 Do you have a 12″ fret saw recommendation? Rob Cosman or https://amzn.to/4ioRxTx
00:33:54 What shop headphones/buds are people using now? https://amzn.to/3D4UqsB
00:36:54 Do you have a safety glasses recommendation? https://www.tacticalrx.com/
00:39:01 What got you into woodworking originally? First memory?
00:42:13 Thoughts on the Oneida super cell dust collector?
00:43:37 Do you have a source for replacement hand plane blades? https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/tools/hock-tools?srsltid=AfmBOoolWD3_RlRRi1gpORDRxhagiohF8aSoMqh1nKJ_EFZ4wzuC_7oN
00:44:41 Wood that is good for a shot cup?
00:47:54 Recommendations for other games? https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer/list/10SBJJW0L46DU?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
00:50:23 Do you feel that other sliders are with the cost?
00:52:12 Do you use hot hide glue or shelf stable? Old Brown Glue https://www.wpatrickedwards.com/ and Titebond Hide Glue https://amzn.to/3Bt1WwE
00:53:19 Thank you blindman c for being with us since 2008!
00:53:55 Mateo’s YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/@pizzabyte1198?app=desktop
00:54:39 Is Nicole getting more mechanical ornaments this year?
00:55:26 How did penofin work on the pergola? https://amzn.to/4f7O74M
00:56:50 Do I need to add rubber pads on my workbench to prevent moisture wicking? https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/protect-outdoor-furniture-epoxy-feet/
00:57:49 Live edge cookie coffee table – What kind of base?
00:59:31 Have you used a digital readout on a router table?
01:01:02 Where to buy a big flush trim router bit and pattern bit? https://onceatreestudio.com/products/big-daddy-pattern-bit
01:02:52 Giveaway for Franks courses!
01:04:39 Congrats Alan H! https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/strazza-marquetry-table-bundle/

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Dec 6, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Most shop tours offer a glimpse into the overall space, tools, and sometimes a few organizational highlights. I’ve already covered that in my previous shop tour, so today, we’re going one step further. This time, we’re diving into the heart of my organizational system—showing how everything is stored, including a look inside most of my drawers!

You might be wondering, “Why focus on the details that other shop tours skip?” For me, organization is a cornerstone of a productive shop. It’s not just about keeping things tidy—it’s about optimizing efficiency and reducing frustration. Here are the key reasons I prioritize organization in my workspace:

1. Easy Access to What You Need

When everything is organized, you’ll never have to scramble looking for tools or supplies. Whether it’s a glue roller or a tape measure, each item has a designated home. This means you can quickly find exactly what you need, exactly when you need it—saving you time and energy during every project.

2. Convenient Storage Locations

Good organization isn’t just about putting things away—it’s about thoughtful placement. Storing items close to where they’re used most often streamlines your workflow. For example, keeping your hand planes stored in a cabinet or mounted on the wall right next to your workbench makes them easy to grab without disrupting your momentum.

3. Simplified Cleanup

An organized shop isn’t just a productive shop—it’s a clean one too. When everything has a specific place and similar items are grouped together, tidying up at the end of the day becomes a breeze. Taking just 1-2 minutes to put things away will not only keep your space clean but also leave you feeling more motivated to start fresh the next day.

4. Safety

Although I failed to mention it in the video, many people reminded me that safety is also a key factor. If your shop is well-organized, it’s easier to keep the space clean and you’re less likely to have a mishap.

In order of appearance

Please note, any links to Amazon.com are affiliate links and your purchase helps support us financially. Thank you! 

• Drill Bit Storage Cabinet Video
• Plier Organizer Rack 
• Drill Charging Station
• Taper Maker
• Outfeed Assembly Table
• 7 Must-Have Table Saw Upgrades
• Workbench Cabinet
• Unnecessarily Fancy Custom Walnut Tool Holders
• Split-Top Roubo Workbench
• Cremona’s Wall-Hanging Tool Cabinet
• Compact Plane Till
• Huge Assembly Table
• Router Bit Foam Drawer Inserts
• Storage Bins for Drawers
• Miter Station Course
• Kapex Colliflower Fence
• Wall Control Metal Pegboard – Save 10% Using my code TWW
• Track Saw Guide Holders
• Rockler Pack Rack Plus
• Grainger Pipe Racks

.

The post The Details other Shop Tours Skip | Shop Organization Tour appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Some of our Amazon Black Friday finds!

00:00 Starting Off: Post-Thanksgiving Chaos
00:53 Black Friday Showcase Introduction
01:08 Workshop Setup Woes
01:43 Thanksgiving Recap
02:44 Built-in Project Reveal
05:53 Black Friday Announcements
07:15 Guild and Store Discounts
09:09 Amazon Gift Card Giveaway
10:20 Festool MFT vs. Dashboard
12:27 Home Improvement Philosophy
13:57 Amazon Black Friday Deals
14:20 Pentel Graph Gear Pencil Set
15:48 Titebond and Hedgehog Deals
17:59 Refinishing a Kitchen Table
23:17 Thanksgiving Barbecue Debate
27:26 Into the Wild Movie Reference
28:42 Supporting Small Businesses
29:06 Guild Instructor Compensation
30:23 Cocobolo Woodworking Project
30:35 Wrapping Up: Final Thoughts
30:41 Instrument Parts and Expensive Materials
30:52 Oreo the Cat
30:58 Upgrading to a Helical Head Planer
31:53 Chat Banter and Patina Discussion
32:05 Retail Lumber Yard in Canada
32:30 Split Top Rubo Workbench
33:13 Bondo Wood Filler
34:06 Black Friday Sales on Tools
35:24 Maker Pads for Staining and Finishing
41:12 Laguna Tools Review
45:14 Fixing a Warped Box
46:35 Viral Doormat and Clamp Sales
48:02 Pony Spring Clamps
48:50 Dashboard Portable Workshop
54:02 Sherwin Williams Paints
54:57 Wrestling John Maleky
55:43 Large Planers and Speed Settings
57:17 Workbench Progress and Andy Klein’s Twin Turbo Vise
01:00:16 Amazon Gift Card Giveaway
01:01:40 Thanksgiving Plans and Star Trek

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Nov 29, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

00:00:00 Good Morning!
00:01:20 TWW Video release today!
00:01:50 Thank you Michael for the PHP gift!
00:02:41 Order a Wood Whisperer shirt today!
00:04:13 Pre-loaded questions come from Patreon and YouTube members, but if you are in the chat please ask questions!
00:05:00 Marc is making 4 student workbenches for classes in 2025
00:06:01 Question from Joe – Thoughts on traditional mortise and tenon vs domino
00:06:48 Question from Tim – Any recommendations on fog-free safety glasses?
00:08:49 Question from Richard – If I use dewaxed shellac as a finish on the cherry, will it block UV and prevent the cherry from darkening? https://amzn.to/3UWJT8S
00:12:01 Can you recommend a durable, humidity resistant router table? https://amzn.to/48W0yiG
00:14:37 Why are top-bearing flush trim router bits hard to find? Try Whiteside https://amzn.to/4hNyCS1
00:16:06 Thank you for the superchat Mark!
00:16:42 Have you thought of doing a catio project?
00:18:52 Any ideas for Xmas gifts this year?
00:20:59 Scrap Wood Boxes https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/scrapwood-jewelry-boxes/
00:21:39 Marc did an Instagram live interview with @newmanspecialswoodwork last night. Check it out here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCX-mW1tlSs/
00:22:34 New Wood Talk episode is out! https://woodtalkshow.com/
00:22:45 Where did the dogs go?
00:23:24 Anti-fog safety glasses from MCR Safety https://amzn.to/3Od88vu
00:24:02 Did you see Blue Spruce’s new router plane?
00:25:40 What is your process on installing hinges? Horton brack stop hinges or Brusso hinges
00:25:59 Installing butt hinges https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/a-butt-hinge-mortise/
00:27:14 Speaking of a fun holiday project! https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/advent-calendar-pt-3/
00:27:47 Recommendation on a good budget-friendly dust collection system?
00:29:06 What do you think of SPEtools from Amazon?
00:30:19 Is it odd that I can see the outlet and cords in the background?
00:31:03 How durable is Osmo compared to Shellac? https://amzn.to/4eAshqj
00:32:45 Chat recommendations for budget friendly dust collection
00:35:00 What is the deal with reviews?
00:37:17 Recommendations for a dovetail saw?
00:38:29 Which is better, drawers or slide out shelves?
00:39:54 Did you struggle in your early days to prioritize which tool/shop purchases to make before others?
00:42:00 Do you have casters on your outfeed table? https://amzn.to/3YOhD9v
00:43:37 What can I do to help prevent chip out using a decorative ogee bit?
00:45:39 Thank you BobbyC for the superchat!
00:46:04 Have you ever repaired a hair line crack in porcelain?
00:46:50 We don’t have all the answers :)
00:47:33 Will changing my contractor saw to 220V keep the saw from bogging down so easily?
00:49:31 Would PVC be ok for permanent ductwork compared to metal piping?
00:51:03 Thank you for the superchat Robert!
00:51:20 Where can I find VJ’s Shellac Videos? https://www.shellacfinishes.com/videos-2/
00:53:13 Do you own anything Harbor Freight?
00:54:15 Any suggestions on hiring an electrician?
00:56:11 Guild project giveaway! Congrats Greg!
00:57:02 Check out Guild+ https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/plus
00:58:46 Does the 5% apply to other items or just courses? Just courses but it does include 10% off coupon for anything in twwstore in the Discounts section!

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Nov 15, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

• Makrs Stain Pads (affiliate link) Use Code TWW for 15% OFF!
• Simple Varnish Finish Video
• Canyon Fire Tools MicroMag Adjuster
• MicroJig Magnet that works with the Canyon Fire Adjuster
• Stupid Simple Tools Saw Calibrator  (Affiliate Link)
• A-LINE-IT Calibration Tool

Makrs Stain Pads (Sent to me for free. Affiliate Link)

When these stain pads showed up at the shop I kind of dismissed them. I don’t stain very often so I didn’t think I would use them. Oddly enough, I ended up with a large staining project and finally had a chance to use them. I was very impressed with how well they laid down stain that I decided to see how they would work using clear finish and was very impressed with the results. The microfiber outer layer leaves an incredibly smooth finish and the foam interior drinks up a ton of liquid. That means each dip into the finish lasts longer and goes further. I liked the product so much that I approached them about working together and we now have a coupon code that will save you 15% on your purchase. Use code TWW at checkout.

Canyon Fire Tools MicroMag Adjuster (Sent to me for free, but no affiliate link)

This is a micro-adjuster that can be added to pretty much any fence, table saw or otherwise. A large rare earth magnet holds the unit to the fence while a larger Magswitch magnet tuns on and off as needed for use. With the fence unlocked and the Magswitch magnet engaged, you can rotate the thumb wheel 5/8” in each direction for a total of 1 1/4” of micro-adjustment. So if you’re really sneaking up on a measurement, no more tap tap tap business. You can simply make your test cut, unlock the fence and then use the adjuster to push or pull the fence as needed. Most importantly, this thing doesn’t get in my way and stays on the saw permanently.  It’s not cheap, but it is made in the USA by a small maker.

Stupid Simple Tools Saw Calibrator (Sent to me for free. Affiliate link)

The saw calibrator is a pretty straightforward. It drops right into your miter slot for checking the alignment of your blade and fence with the miter slot. I used the tool to recalibrate my saw and it worked like a charm. While I do enjoy the aesthetics and functionality, I do have to mention that there are other comparably-priced solutions on the market that do more, such as the A-LINE-IT Calibration Tool.

The post Making Finishing Easy, Micro-Adjustment for any Fence, Table Saw Calibrator | Tools Unleashed 03 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

00:00:00 Good Morning!
00:00:49 Marc did his Hybrid Woodworking presentation for Guild+ last night
00:01:45 Nicole has the best tree (in her opinion)
00:02:51 Watch Along Wednesdays have joined Guild+ (after testing the software, we moved it to all of the Guild)
00:05:11 Questions came from Patreon and YouTube Members!
00:05:51 What is the best way to finish African mahogany?
00:08:37 Trestle Table from TWW
00:08:59 Have you noticed an impact in the furniture you built in the Denver climate, now that it has been in a more humid one for a while? Be it movement or finish…
00:10:45 RGB Gaming Desk
00:11:53 Your 50/50 mix is still my favorite
00:12:37 Minwax wipe on poly or General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Naptha
00:12:54 Makrs Pads
00:13:58 Is there a resource for identifying wood? https://www.wood-database.com/ or Understanding Wood Book
00:15:04 Could you demystify all for me/us options for dust collection ports? both 2-1/2”, 4”, and crossovers
00:18:11 Tim’s update on his bandsaw setup
00:19:25 Makrs Pads
00:20:07 Question about the Festool Domino
00:22:48 Please can you advise where you sourced the small brass apron plane and small adjustable squares used on Ava’s Vanity Desk guild project? Tony
00:25:03 Thank you for the coffee Robert! :D
00:25:59 Can you please comment on options 2 (Regular dados) and 3 (Stopped dados), and compare them to option 1 (8 mm dominos)?
00:28:38 How would you insulate an outdoor wood cabinet?
00:30:49 Why isn’t shellac more popular?
00:32:58 What’s Vijay Velji up to?!
00:34:50 What tool did you use before the Domino?
00:37:34 Any experience with the Triton router?
00:38:25 Essential Craftsman
00:38:51 What’s a good finish for wood pens?
00:40:55 Any tips on working with curly maple?
00:44:06 What is your verdict on Carbon Method on the tablesaw?
00:46:03 What grits of diamond stones do you recommend?
00:48:37 Have we heard or seen anything since the SawStop patent release?
00:50:22 Good reference book or site for someone staring a small wood shop? Check out our shop tours!
00:53:25 Ever thought of making Shaper Origin files for templates?
00:56:07 What is your view on Tormek vs flat sharpening stones?
00:59:51 Question about rust
01:01:53 Tip on how to get a little natural grease
01:03:02 Thanks everyone for joining us!

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Nov 8, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

• Kreg MortiseMate (Save 5% – affiliate link)
• Festool Domino (affilaite link)
• Rockler Beadlock (affiliate link)
• DowelMax (affiliate link)
• JessEm Pocket Mill Pro (affiliate link)
• Ava’s Vanity (showing the Dowelmax in action)

The post Kreg MortiseMate Review – Should Festool Be Worried? appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

00:00:00 Good Morning!
00:01:45 Ava stops by the show to promote Caleb’s newest Guild course
00:02:52 Halloween Spag fun
00:03:52 Guild+ subscribers can now watch the Bread Box build
00:04:33 We have In-Person classes scheduled in 2025!
00:06:07 Questions from Patreon and our YouTube Community
00:06:36 Question from Tim – Can you recommend a blade and techniques for good resawing? – AccuRight bandsaw blade
00:09:52 Question from Corrado89 – How to fix a rattle in cabinet doors?
00:12:54 What is the Watch Along with Guild+
00:16:21 Question from Rafael – Question about joints and dominos
00:20:55 Best Epoxy to attach wood to metal? https://amzn.to/3NQgLvS https://amzn.to/4fx2qR3
00:22:43 Tablesaw recommendations?
00:27:15 Question from John – Should I sand the gel stain before putting on the top coat?
00:29:18 Miter Saw recommendations?
00:31:13 Question from Fredrick – How do you join picture frame pieces?
00:34:09 Have you seen the new Kreg mortise mate?
00:34:38 Did you alternate the polarity of the magnets on the knife board?
00:35:18 Has another company approached you to do a shop tour?
00:38:05 Have you ever been approached to be a host, judge or anything else?
00:41:03 How Nicole and Marc met in San Diego
00:42:27 Should I upgrade my router?
00:43:22 TWW and Beam Peak Crossover?
00:43:59 What’s a good all around Spokeshave?
00:45:47 I’m new to hand tools.
00:46:59 How do I keep finish out of the divots of my Sorry game?
00:48:31 Thank you for the superchat Mooney!
00:49:11 Will the Domino replace dowels?
00:50:17 David clarifies his finishing question
00:51:28 Is your shop open for visitors?
00:52:11 Do I need to use stainless steel to stop the wood turning black?
00:53:54 Is Cremona releasing any new Guild courses soon?
00:55:42 Did you get a travisher at Handworks?
00:56:25 How would I dye a maple veneer white?
00:58:49 Can I take a cleanup pass on the jointer after milling?
00:59:57 Have you added a leaf to any dining tables you’ve made?
01:01:12 How do you keep your shop clean and organized?
01:02:24 Whats in Marc’s Drawers?
01:05:33 Glue Question about panel glue up
01:06:50 What is the deal with vises?
01:09:36 Take a look at Chris’ Workbench Book
01:10:52 Which end of the bench should I put Andy’s Vise
01:12:25 Thanks for joining us!!

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Nov 1, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The vanity features two continuous grain drawers in the base as well as a hutch unit that contains two drawers and a door with a lighted mirror. The vanity will also serve as a desk and the hutch is removable should she ever decide to convert it to full-time desk duty.

If you’d like to build this project, we have a full 19 video course in the Wood Whisperer Guild. You’ll received downloadable PDF and SketchUp plans and all of the detailed video instruction you can possibly ask for.

Featured Products

• Backside Sandpaper
• 2 x 1 1/2” Butt Hinges
• Lighted Mirror
• Izzy Skirt Washers
• 3/8” Rare Earth Magnets
• 1/4-20 threaded inserts
• 1 1/2” connector bolts
• DowelMax Jig (3/8” and 1/4”) 
• Cost-Effective Alternative to DowelMax
• Dowel Center Pins (3/8” and 1/4”)
• 1/8” Roundover Bit
• Self-Centering Bit
• Countersink Bit Set
• 1/4″ Undersized Plywood Bit
• Shelf Pin Jig
• Hide Glue
• Taper Maker Tapering Jig
• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block
• Merle Clamp
• Osmo Wood Wax Clear Extra Thin
• Osmo PolyX Oil
• Osmo Top Oil
• Alfie Shine Wax

The post A Vanity For My Little Girl appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The post The Woodworking Morning Show – Oct 25, 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Canvas prints always look better in a floating frame. Many frames are commercially available but most will be cheaply made and won’t be a perfect fit for your artwork. Fortunately, making your own DIY floating frame is easy and inexpensive. All you need is a table saw, miter saw, and drill. For the wood, head to the “project boards” section of your local hardware store.

• • Material for each frame (assuming a 16×16 print): (4) 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 2’ (Sold as 1/2” x 3” x 2’) (4) 1/4” x 1 1/2” x 2’ (Sold as 1/4” x 2” x 2’)
  • Merle Clamp (Amazon Affiliate Link)
  • Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block
  • To finish the frame I used Krylon Fusion Satin. (Amazon Affiliate Link)
  • The frame is hung using a sawtooth hanger. (Amazon Affiliate Link)
  • Titebond Speed Set Wood Glue (Amazon Affiliate Link)

The post DIY Floating Frames that Anyone Can Make! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The post Woodworking Morning Show – 10/4/24 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

It’s been a crazy couple of years since we moved to Missouri. If you’d like to follow the entire saga, start here: Marc’s Shop.

The 2024 Shop Tour begins with a review of the changes since our last update on Oct. 22 2022. From there we’ll discuss the general workflow and layout in the shop. I’ll then show you more detail as we review the various tools and pieces of shop furniture. We’ll finish up with a Q&A where I deep dive into the topics you were most interested in.

Referenced Courses and Videos

• 6 Tips for Better Shop Layout
• Backside Sandpaper
• Bit Storage Cabinet
• Drill Charging Station
• Hybrid Workbench Course
• 7 Must-Have Table Saw Upgrades
• Outfeed Assembly Table
• Big Assembly Table
• Miter Station Course
• Rubber Floor Tiles

Tools & Stuff

• Powermatic Drill Press
• Tormek Sharpening System
• c14 Harvey Ambassador Bandsaw
• SCM S440p Bandsaw
• Large Magnetic Whiteboard
• SawStop 3HP PCS Table Saw
• Powermatic 12″ Jointer
• Oneida 5HP Dust Gorilla
• Festool Kapex
• Woodpeckers Stealth Stop
• Oliver Spindle Sander
• Hammer HS 950 Edge Sander
• Powermatic Air Cleaner
• Felder D951 Planer
• SuperMax 25-50 Drum Sander
• Festool MFT
• Festool Track Saw TS60
• Rockler Rolling Clamp Rack
• Jet Parallel Clamps 
• Rockler Parallel Clamp Racks
• Grainger Vertical Pipe Racks

The post From Old Firehouse to Woodworking Wonderland | Shop Tour 2024 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The post Woodworking Morning Show – 9/27/24 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

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PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post Woodworking Morning Show – 9/20/24 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

As part of our recent kitchen renovation, we had several areas of flooring that required new material. As a result, the entire kitchen floor was sanded with the intention of staining to match the old adjoining floor. Fortunately (and unfortunately), the natural-colored floors made the space so bright and inviting that we knew there was no way we could go back to a dark stain.

But what about the rest of the floor?! You can’t really start and stop in the middle of a floor if you’re using traditional floor finishes as you’re likely to have very noticeable lines. Not to mention, there was no room left in the budget to increase the scope of the flooring project. That’s when I decided to attempt finishing the floor myself, using a finish that can easily  blend into the remaining floor in the future: Osmo PolyX Oil.

Preparation

The floors were sanded by the pros to remove the old finish. The floor was then sanded through to grits stopping at 120. The floors were then vacuumed thoroughly to remove any surface dust. Any baseboards or trim materials were masked with blue tape.

Application

Coat 1

The first coat was applied using a brush around the perimeter and a roller for the main part of the floor. I worked in 5×5 sections, spreading the finish as thin as I reasonably could. Unlike painting a wall with a roller, you really want to use decent pressure on the roller to make the finish go as far as possible. Just be careful not to apply so much pressure that you break the roller or handle.

Wait 24 hrs.

Coat 2

The second coat was applied in a similar fashion, just using different tools. I decided to use the non-abrasive hand pad around the perimeter as I felt it did a better job of allowing me to work a small amount of finish into the surface. The roller was then used just to get some finish on the floor and then the FloorXcenter powered buffer comes in to finish the job. The buffer does an amazing job of spreading the finish while also working it into the pores of the wood. I essentially work one area thoroughly, occasionally pushing into an unfinished area to see if there’s anymore finish left on the pad. Once it starting looking pretty dry I could move onto the next section.

Coat 3

On some wood species, it might be necessary to apply a third coat. It really depends on what you see after the second coat. If the surface looks even and consistent, the third coat can be skipped. My floor only required two coats.

The finish takes a few weeks to cure completely but can be walked on with socks the next day. I gave it two days before moving our table back in and I waited a few weeks before putting down our area rug and floor mats.

Maintenance

The floor will be cleaned regularly with Osmo Wash and Care. Maybe once a year I’ll clean the floor with the buffer and their Liquid Wax Cleaner. And then every couple of years I’ll likely hit the main traffic areas with a fresh coat of Polyx Oil.

Five Things You Should Know

It’s important to know what this finish is, and what it isn’t. So here are five things I think you should know.

1. It’s not a typical floor finish, at least by US standards.
2. It’s a matt finish, if you use Osmo PolyX Oil (3031 – Matte). More sheen can be had with Osmo Polyx Oil (3043 – Satin)
3.  It’s a repairable finish.
4. It’s not a “set it and forget it” finish. Maintenance is part of the deal.
5. It can be a little slippery when wearing socks, but will tone down with time.

Products I Used

• 3M 6500 Respirator
• Organic Vapor Cartridges
• Osmo PolyX Oil (3031 – Matte)
• Osmo Polyx Oil (3043 – Satin)
• Osmo Large Roller Set
• Osmo Small Roller and Brush Set
• Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner
• Osmo FloorXcenter Buffer

Amazon links are affiliate links.

Looking for a little more info about safe finishes? Check out what the folks at Woodcraft have to say about Eco-Friendly & Non-Toxic Wood Oil Finishes.

The post Solving Your Floor Refinishing Dilemma: Osmo PolyX Oil Hardwood Floor Application appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

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Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer!

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Take a woodworking class online with The Wood Whisperer

SUPPORT US ON PATREON!

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post Woodworking Morning Show – 9/13/24 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

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The post The Woodworking Morning Show – 9/6/24 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

I reviewed the original Laguna Driftmaster Fence System a couple of years ago and while I liked the feature set, I found the installation and maintenance to be a pain in the rear. Fortunately, most of my gripes were addressed with the new Laguna Driftmaster DXIII.

If you purchase the Laguna Driftmaster DXII using our link, you can save 5% off your order and we’ll get a small portion of the sale as an affiliate with Beaver Industrial Tools.

Get Yours Today and Save 5%

The Good

• It’s significantly lighter.
• Easier to install and calibrate. Instructions are clearer and installation videos can be found on the Laguna website.
• The fence now rides on a linear bearing guide allowing for smooth and fast adjustment.
• Taller fence with T-Tracks for accessories
• Much more intuitive and elegant design.
• The switch from a lead screw to rack and pinion makes for faster travel when using the handle.
• Ergonomics are much better than the previous generation. The entire unit is less intrusive and less likely to cause issues with various saw brands.

The Not-So Good

• The track requires wax/lubrication to prevent the bolt from tilting when moving the fence back and forth. Easy fix, but worth noting.
• Setting the fence square to the table is not quite as intuitive as I’d like. The video explains the how’s and why’s of this issue and why it’s ultimately not a major problem.
• The switch from a lead screw to rack and pinion makes the micro-adjustment, while speeding up movement, makes the adjustment much coarser than the previous generation.
• Backlash in the gear can make adjustments tricky if moving forward and back repeatedly. Not as much of an issue when advancing in one direction.

Final Verdict

There’s really not much competition in this space, which means I’m essentially evaluating this product in a vacuum with nothing to compare it to. The only logical comparison is the previous generation of the Driftmaster, which is no longer in production.

That’s why, in spite of the few minor quirks, the Laguna Driftmaster DXIII represents a substantial upgrade for just about anyone looking to up their resaw game. And if you’re thinking about utilizing the bandsaw for joinery, this is the kind of setup you’ll want to look into.

Get Yours Today and Save 5%

The post Take Your Bandsaw Resawing To The Next Level With The Laguna Driftmaster DXIII Fence! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

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Sign up for our free newsletter to be notified of a new video or other cool stuff happening at The Wood Whisperer!

SUPPORT US ON PATREON!

PRODUCTS RECOMMENDED BY MARC
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/thewoodwhisperer
Canada – https://www.amazon.ca/shop/thewoodwhisperer
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/thewoodwhisperer

The post The Woodworking Morning Show With Marc And Nicole: Your Weekly Dose Of Woodworking Inspiration! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Team Up!

One of my favorite people to collaborate with is Brian Benham. Brian is a top-notch craftsman/designer and he’s well-versed in SketchUp. In fact, you can learn SketchUp directly from Brain with his Intro to SketchUp Course in the Guild. With a quick Zoom call and Brian’s quick drafting skills, we can often hash out complex design concepts quickly and easily.

Just for fun, we decided to record one of those sessions as I began designing the Shop-Made Mortising Jig. The presentation is somewhat raw and unfiltered as we didn’t know what we were going to do with the recording. The more I thought about it, I realized that this kind of content is often missing from our current options. You’re probably used to being told what to cut and how to cut it. But how often is it explained WHY something is being cut to a particular size or in a particular way?

What Do You Think?

I suspect this won’t be everyones cup of tea, but I’m guessing many of you will really enjoy it as it really shows you how you can simplify your design process. That said, please let me know if you found this useful. Obviously this particular discussion is about a simple mortising jig. But the really cool stuff happens when we collaborate on furniture pieces. We’re more than happy to share that if the interest is there.

The post Simplify Your Design Process: Team Up For Success! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Please note, coupon code has expired.

A shop-made mortising jig is an indispensable tool for creating traditional mortises for both integral and loose mortise and tenon joinery. In a world where there are probably 1000 products out there promising to make joinery easier and faster, sometimes it’s nice to make an inexpensive and elegant shop-made mortising jig that works with any router to produce accurate, repeatable, and strong results.

History

The internet tends to have a very short memory so allow me to divulge my inspiration for this shop-made mortising jig. The first jig I became aware of that did this kind of work was the Leigh FMT. I believe it was release in the 1990’s. Made from high quality material, the jig had a price to match and few hobbyists could justify the price tag.

In 2008, Fine Woodworking published a jig by Michel Fortune that followed similar principles to the Leigh FMT but was greatly simplified and was made from typical shop materials. This jig would be dedicated to a single router and featured basic work-holding options that were available at the time.

In 2017, Philip Morley published a video on his Morley Mortiser. By the way, you can see Philip’s shop tour here. Philip’s version of the jig improved a number of things over Fortune’s version. Instead of being dedicated to a single router, you could now use a guide busing in ANY router. Morley also upgraded the work-holding with the addition of MicroJig’s versatile Dovetail Clamps.

How I Made It

For my version of the shop-made mortising jig, I wanted to simplify things even further while also cleaning up the appearance. Instead of using plywood blocks to engage with the base of the router, I opted for a couple of small steel strips that would control the router’s travel by contacting the guide bushing below the surface. This leaves a nice flush surface on top and gives us metal to metal contact for controlling the path of the router. I also used MicroJig’s Dovetail Hardware Packs to eliminate the large clunky knobs. To make repeatable cuts easier, I included a fence on the work-holding plate that can slide into pretty much any position or angle. And I used MicroJig’s new Ratchet Clamps to hold workpieces to the front plate.

Stuff Shown in the Video: (these are affiliate links)

• MatchFit Dovetail Hardware Pack
• MatchFit Setup Gauge
• MatchFit Dovetail Bit
• MatchFit Ratchet Clamps
• MatchFit Dovetail Clamps (2pack)
• MatchFit Dovetail Clamp AP
• MatchFit CNC Workholding Kit
• GRR-RIPPER+ GR-100
• Microjig’s Exclusive Offers Page
• 5/8″ Guide Bushing
• Wiping Poly

Download the FREE plans:

• Imperial PDF
• Metric PDF

The post A Fresh Approach To a Shop-Made Mortising Jig With MicroJig – Check It Out! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Welcome to another Tool Unleashed, where I provide first impressions and mini tool reviews for your enjoyment. UNLEASH THE TOOLS! 

Impact Poly Dead Blow Hammer – Retails for $104. Sent to me for free. No affiliate link.

This dead blow hammer is quite expensive  at about 5x the cost of competitors. It’s truly the kind of tool you can pass down to future generations as it’s made with a welded steel frame (with a lifetime guarantee), has a soft yet tough chemically-bonded poly coating, and features a completely open head cavity where the shot is free to move back and forth for very effective dead blow action. Nice! But is it worth it? That’s for you to decide.

Irwin Quick-Lift Construction Jack – Retails for $99. Sent to me for free. Amazon affiliate link.

When these jacks came into the shop, I thought they were neat but didn’t immediately see a use for them. Then, I had to move my bench. I’m trying to respect my back as much as possible these days so I needed a safe way to get the bench onto some dollies. That’s when I remembered I had these jacks. Within minutes I had the whole bench fully mobile without risking life and limb. That’s just one use-case and I’m sure I’ll come up with more in the future.

Melbourne Tool Router Plane – Retails for $169. Sent to me for free. Affiliate Link.

This is a no-frills workhorse of a router plane with a reasonable price to match. In use it’s solid, capable, and gives great results. The blades are bedded at 50 degrees which means we’re not dealing with any L-shaped blade sharpening. You can sharpen these blades as easily as a chisel. If you don’t need all the bells and whistles and you want a good solid-performing router plane, this one is worth a look.

The post A Fancy Dead Blow Hammer, a Back-Saving Quick Lift, and a Bargain Router Plane | Tools Unleashed 02 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

A word of warning: make sure there’s no electrical lines in the wall cavity. Many stud finders have the ability to detect wires and in the worst case scenario, you can open up the wall and do a visual inspection. If you see wires, pick another stud bay.

Now I have enough room for my entire collection and I can actually see what I have, instead of having to dig through rows of spice bottles that are sitting in a bin on a shelf. Good luck making your own in-wall spice rack!

Links for the In-Wall Spice Rack:

• • Drywall Saw
  • Backside Sandpaper
  • Titebond Quick & Thick
  • Fine Nap Roller
  • Meat Church Holy VooDoo Rub
  • See more of our Kitchen -related projects

The post The Ultimate Space-Saving Hack For Storing Your Spices | In-wall Spice Rack You Must See! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Relevant Linkies

• Outdoor Coffee Table
• Outdoor Finishes, Real World Results
• Rubio Monocoat DuroGrit
• Osmo One Coat Only HS Plus
• Osmo UV Protection Oil

The post Unbelievably Easy Exterior Wood Finish With Rubio Durogrit! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Links

• Support us on Youtube!
• Support us on Patreon!
• Essential Joinery Book
• Offset Router Collet Wrench
• Tiered Plant Stand Course

The post The Truth about Dovetails | Ask TWW 06 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

FREE PLANS

• TWW Plant Stand V1
• TWW Plant Stand Metric V1

Links and Stuff

• Tiered Plant Stand Guild Course
• Backside Sandpaper
• 3M Half Mask Respirator
• Forrest Dado King
• PICA Pencil
• Goldy Wilson Poster
• Jesse Mite-R-Excel
• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Blocks
• Milwaukee Trim Router
• General Finishes High Performance

A Better Version?

After making this first version, two things compelled me to continue evolving the design. First, my family spoke up. Both my mom and my brother expressed interest in one of these plant stands. Second, I felt I had a lot of room to improve in terms of functionality, size, and buildability. Not sure that last thing is a word but when I produce plans for a project, it’s important to me that I don’t set folks up for failure with overly-difficult construction or assembly methods. So I went back to the drawing board and created version 2. But I didn’t stop there. To make sure everyone had a plant stand, I eventually came up with version 3, which I consider to be the best of the bunch. And if you’re interested in building that version, check out my new course in the Wood Whisperer Guild: Tiered Plant Stand Course  The course is available at a special discounted price while it’s in this pre-order phase and the price goes up on May 31st 2024. So don’t delay!

The post Sleek And Modern Plant Stand – Free Plans Available appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Every shop has it’s spacial challenges. And it’s how we overcome those challenges that can make or break the space. So you’re going to see five different shops today where their owners came up with some really clever solutions for their spaces. These are definitely shop ideas you’ll want to steal!

• Brian Benham –  @Benham_Design 
• Mike Chipman –  @mikechipman2002 
• Fred Beck –  @80211Denver 
• Gary Lucas  @timberworks 
• Jeff Haylon  @HaylonWoodworking 

The post Shop ideas you’ll want to steal! – CLEVER Shop Tours appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Important Links

• Amana Countersink Bit (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• Dewalt Heat Gun (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• Blotch Control Formula
• Titebond Speed Set Glue (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• General Finishes High Performance (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• Fuji Q5 HVLP Turbine (Amazon Affiliate Link)
• Makrs Stain Pads (Use code TWW to save 15%)

The post Transforming A Retro Heywood Wakefield Desk With A Stunning New Look! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

JessEm SS Precision Rulers – Sent to me for free. No affiliate link.

JessEm is expanding their line of measuring and marking tools and the latest offering is their Stainless Steel Precision rulers. The unique feature here is the grippy tabs that help the rule grip the work with just a small about of finger pressure, reducing the chances of slippage during use.

Blue Spruce Optima Mortise Chisels – Sent to me for free. No affiliate link.

Blue Spruce, now owned by Woodpeckers, adds to their line of excellent chisels with the new Optima Mortise Chisels. The chisels are beefy, well-balanced, and incredibly comfortable in-hand. The chisels are ready to use right out of the box and steel core means every mallet strike transfers all the energy right to the tip of the chisel.

Harvey RG-2 Roller Guide – Purchased by me. No affiliate link.

Harvey’s RG-2 Roller Guide is completely over-engineered and I’m here for it. I love this thing! I’ve used it at both the bandsaw and the table saw and the two independent rollers provide just the right amount of pressure to the work. The best part is that you can adjust the pressure on the fly by simply turning a dial.

Don’t miss the pre-order pricing for Caleb James’ 3-Legged Coffee Table course in the Wood Whisperer Guild!

The post JessEm Rulers, Optima Mortise Chisels, Harvey RG-2 Roller Guide | Tools Unleashed 01 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

00:00:42 – Adam – What happened to your Hybrid Workbench?

00:01:36 – StriperSeeker – Trouble using a jointer.

00:04:22 – Caleb James Round Top Table

00:05:10 – Derik – Recommendations for self-centering bits?

00:06:30 – TheGhostofRigbyReardon – Pre-milling material to help it dry faster

08:41:00 – Matthew – Recommendations for knock-down hardware.

Links

• Pre-Order the 3-Legged Danish Modern Coffee Table Course
• Support us on Youtube!
• Support us on Patreon!
• Split-Top Roubo Course
• Hybrid Workbench Course
• Milling Lumber
• Jointer Calibration
• Snappy 3-Piece Self-Centering Drill Bits
• Festool Domino Connector Set
• Outdoor Finishes | Real World Results

The post I Bought My Workbench! | Ask TWW 05 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Relevant Links:

Please note that any Amazon links are affiliate links, meaning you pay the same price but I get a small percentage of the sale.

• Sawstop Revolution Miter Gauge
• Sawstop Scale Miter Gauge
• Ultimate Miter Gauge Review
• Woodpeckers Exact-90 Review
• Harvey MG-36 Pro Review
• JessEm Mite-R-Excel II 

The post The MOST Expensive Miter Gauge on the Market | Worth it?! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

It’s not often that I have an opportunity to build something for my brother. He’s been in London for the past ten years and recently moved back to the States. His house is pretty empty so I’ve taken on the challenge of building as much furniture as possible for his new house. I’ll get the process started with a MCM Walnut Dining Table with Curves. When I asked him what he liked, he sent me numerous pictures of tables that were firmly in the current interpretation of the Mid-Century Modern style. To be frank, I’m having a bit of MCM fatigue so I came up with a design that should make us both happy. And because he’s my brother, I just to include a special surprise.

Important Links

Please note that all Amazon links are affiliate links and we receive a small percentage of the sale at no cost to you.

• Backside Sandpaper
• Intro to SketchUp Course
• White Pencil
• William Ng Big Daddy Bit
• Thin Curved Pry Bar
• Festool Domino
• Graphgear Pencil Set
• Big Horn Push Stick
• Titebond Quick & Thick
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue
• Milwaukee Trim Router
• 10 Tips for Panels that Stay Flat
• Glue Roller
• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block
• Magnate Fingernail Bit
• Whiteside Ultimate Spiral Pattern Bit
• Izzy Skirt Washers

The post A Special Surprise for my Bro! | MCM Walnut Dining Table with Curves appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

I truly considering not posting this video at all as it lays bare some major flaws in my decision-making. But pretending things like this never happen really doesn’t do you any favors, especially if you’re just starting out. Mistakes happen to all of us. We are all capable of having a bad day in the shop. The key is to understand why the mistakes happen and to learn how to prevent them in the future. It’s also important to realize that when mistakes start to compound, it’s best to just walk away. You can always tackle those problems the next day with a fresh set of eyes.

If you’re interested in building one of these lazy susans, here’s the hardware I used: TamBee 10″ Lay Susan Hardware Please note that if you plan to use this hardware you’ll need to use small washers to raise the hardware above the surface allowing the rings to spin.

Looking for some Backside Sandpaper? Click here.

If you like that t-shirt, you can get yours here: Mario 85 T-Shirt

Please note that all Amazon links are affiliate links. The price doesn’t change for you but a small percentage of the sale comes to me. I appreciate your support.

The post I Almost Didn’t Post This Video | Lazy Susan appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Normally I like to spend a few months with a product before doing a review, but this miter gauge is very similar to the non-pro version and I was able to spot the improvements and problems within minutes of opening the box. I then spent a few weeks actually using the gauge just to see how things played out.

Appearance

The fit and finish of the MG-36 Pro is just as beautiful as the original.

Price

I paid $399 in August of ’23 with a final price of $447.51 with shipping and tax. I’ve since monitored the price at Harveywoodworking.com and like seemingly all of their products, the price fluctuates by the day. The lowest price I’ve seen so far was $299. If the price is any higher than that, I’d recommend checking back daily and holding out for the lowest price possible.

The Miter Bar

The miter bar was extended 1″ which allows for cutting wider workpieces. The bar also now features an additional concentric washer at the user end, solving a wobble issue that existed in the original MG-36. Harvey also changed the concentric washers to a design that I find easier to adjust and more reliable.

The Protractor Head

Harvey upgraded the protractor head from the gappy 1 degree resolution of the MG-36 to a new gap-free vernier scale system boasting 0.1 degree resolution. They also improved the sloppy detent issue I observed previously. While somewhat snappier, the spring pin still feels too soft for my tastes. It’s still far too easy to pop in and out of the detents. Much like the original MG-36, there’s really no need for the pin retraction button. I personally feel the design of this system is flawed. Fortunately, if you give the fence a little wiggle you’ll find that it tends to settle into the center of the detent. I also found that tightening the knob usually sends the pin home. I say “usually” because as you’ll see in the video, you can still easily lock it down and find that you’re off the mark. Thanks to the new vernier scale, you can see exactly how much error is present and correct it if necessary.

The Fence

The fence is nearly identical (if not actually identical) to the original MG-36. I had an issue with mine where the red extension piece tilted back when tightened down. A replacement from Harvey corrected this issue. The fence extension is listed as 36″ long but I was able to measure about 40″, which is a nice bonus. Unfortunately, Harvey still refuses to correct the false claims on their website that their fence is the longest on the market. Tsk Tsk!

The Stop

While the previous stop had a couple of issues, none of those were deal-breakers. And thankfully, the problems I discovered in the previous version were actually improved. Unfortunately this was one step forward and two steps back, since the stop is now unusable for workpieces that aren’t at least 5/8″ thick. This is because there’s a 5/8″ gap between the stop and the fence. Of course, you can get around this problem by using a sacrificial fence (something you should be using anyway). But if you like to go commando with no sacrificial fence, the stop is going to prove problematic at some point.

The other bigger issue I found with the stop is that Harvey shortened the spine that rides in the fence slot by about 50%, resulting in 0.012″ of potential movement. So while the stop boasts 0.001″ micro-adjustability, a light tap of the stop can knock it out as much as 0.012″. I was able to test two of these stops and they both exhibited this issue. The movement was also confirmed by two other MG-36 Pro owners and Harvey themselves.

Customer Service

The customer service I received was much improved over my previous experience. In fact, it was stellar. They were friendly, responsive and eager to fix my issues. Unfortunately, the sloppy stop is a design failure that can’t be fixed with a Bandaid solution and a refund was offered if I felt the product didn’t meet my expectations.

Conclusion

I’m happy to say that the Harvey MG-36 Pro is a serviceable miter gauge. It’s not perfect and depending on the kind of work you do the sloppy stop issue might be a deal-breaker. The sloppiness in the detents is still a big disappointment. However, with the caveats discussed in the video you can achieve decent results. Overall, Harvey addressed pretty much every issue I found in my previous review. They either improved them greatly or fixed them. That said, if you’re in the market for a miter gauge I think the Jessem Mite-R-Excel II is still your best bet for the money. Even if you’re able to get the MG-36 Pro at $299 (the lowest price I’ve seen), the Jessem can be had for only $25 more. And the Jessem doesn’t suffer from any of the issues found in the MG-36 lineup.

The post Harvey MG-36 Pro Miter Gauge: Worth the Upgrade? appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Please note that this video is a paid advertisement and I will receive a small commission if you purchase something from Carbon Method using my code or link. I truly appreciate your support.

You may already know Carbon Method for their rust preventative I showed off in this video and the subsequent testing I did in this video. They have since released a new product for rust removal, the Carbon Coating Prep Kit that contains three abrasive pads and their Reconditioning Oil. Using their kit you can remove rust faster, easier, and more effectively that with traditional abrasive or chemical techniques. When you’re done, the surface is prepped and ready for the rust preventing Carbon Coat. Get your kit here and say bye bye to rust! 

The post A New Product for Rust Removal! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Top Construction & Oil Finish | The Big Finish | Sideboard Pt 11 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

For the adjustable shelves, there are several ways we can have them interact with the case. Typically we use a series of holes and shelf pins but on a piece like this, I felt we should go the extra mile by building sawtooth standards. If you’re not familiar, this system includes standards that are notched so they can receive shelf supports that run from front to back. It’s a very cool but labor intensive choice that has the added bonus of requiring no metal or plastic. A classy way to construct adjustable shelves!

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Don’t miss the pre-order price for Philip Morley’s Tambour Record Console course. Price goes up February 9th!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Sawtooth Standards | Door Coves & Adjustable Shelves | Sideboard Pt 10 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

These aren’t your average drawer fronts! We’ll make the front from two pieces and create an integrated pull by creating a relief where the two pieces join. We’ll also create a dimpled texture using a Carbide Burr and a Die Grinder. The dimpled texture provides a super cool look to the fronts even though the wood itself is just regular walnut. Each dimple disrupts and reflects the light in such a way that it confuses the eye and invites people to come in for a closer look. It’s a great way to add an accent but I definitely believe it needs to be used sparingly. Here’s another example where I used the dimpling technique on a Trestle Table in case you want to see an additional application.

It’s important to remember that if you’re building this piece, you don’t need to make your drawers fronts look like mine. Have fun, get creative, and make a drawer front that suits your tastes.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Dimpled Texture | Drawer Fronts | Sideboard Pt 9 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Once the drawer joinery is complete, I moved on to prepping for the Blum undermount slide installation. Undermount slides are not as complicated as the instructions would have you believe, but there are a number of important steps involved in the installation. Once the locking mechanisms are attached to the underside of the drawer, I like to use spacers to install the slide itself to the case.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Dovetail Jigs are Back, Baby! | Drawer Boxes | Sideboard Pt 8 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The real magic of a good set of sliding doors comes from the construction of the rabbets and the groove in the case. The goal is to minimize friction. The final product has an incredible contrast between the patinaed copper and live edge walnut that really catches the eye.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• • PDF Cut List & Plan
  • PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Look Ma, Patinaed Copper & Live Edge | Sliding Doors | Sideboard Pt 7 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Secondly, I can cut the male side of the joint on the dividers themselves using the router table. And this is one of the times where having a micro-adjustable fence on the router table comes in very handy. I like to sneak up on the fit taking just a few thousandths off each time. You should keep in mind that in order for the dovetail to be centered you need to take a pass on each side. Therefore, every adjustment you make to the router table fence is times two. It’s all too easy to remove too much material.

After the dividers slide in nicely, with some effort, they can be glued to the case. However,  keep in mind that if the joint is snug and difficult to assemble dry, it will be impossible to assembled when a water-based glue is on the joint. So it’s never a bad idea to use a non water-based glue for this application such as epoxy or polyurethane glue.

After the dividers were installed, I decided to add an additional support strip on the back of the case as further insurance against sagging.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post The Other Dovetail | Sliding Dovetails | Sideboard Series Pt 6 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

To make shop-sawn veneered panels, we’ll start by cutting the core from a piece of 1/2″ MDF. I then add a walnut frame around the perimeter. I like the idea of trimming with solid wood before applying our veneer as it gives the veneer a nice continuous run on the face while also giving us a good amount of solid stock we can use for our joinery. Next we cut sheets of walnut from a thicker board to make the veneer. I can then glue the veneer pieces together edge to edge. Once the glue dries, I apply glue to the sheets and the MDF core and place the sandwich in the vacuum press.

After the glue dries, the panels are trimmed and the sliding dovetails are cut so that they slide into the dovetail recess in the case perfectly.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Dividers | Shop-Sawn Veneered Panels | Sideboard Series Pt 5 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Advanced Domino Action

With the legs shaped, we can glue up the sides as sub-assemblies and then dig into some advanced domino action. The Festool Domino is incredibly easy to use and for the most part I find it very intuitive. But things get tricky when you need to cut mortises into a long or wide face and sometimes we need to get creative with shims and spacers in order to achieve repeatability and consistency. The goal here is to create a series of mortise and tenon joints that will not only hold our top and bottom frames in place, but will also locate them perfectly. Curious to hear from you folks what kind of advanced domino action you’ve done.

Looking for the Summary version of this build? Click here!

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Advanced Domino Action | Leg Shaping, Side Glueups and More Joinery | Sideboard Series Pt 4 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Extra Walnut, Extra Fun! | Web Frames & Panels | Sideboard Series Pt 3 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Crotch For Days! | Side Panels & Grooves | Sideboard Series Pt 2 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Stuff I Used:

• • Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
  • Amana Countersink Bit
  • Backside Sandpaper
  • Milwaukee Die Grinder
  • Carbide Burr (Ball)
  • Large Core Box Bit
  • Mouse Card Scraper
  • Leigh Dovetail Jig
  • My Vacuum Press Setup
  • Taper Maker Hardware Kit
  • RevMark White Marker
  • White Pencil
  • Festool Domino
  • Festool OF1400 Router
  • 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
  • Titebond Extend
  • Dovetail Bit
  • Milwaukee Die Grinder
  • Cove Bit
  • Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
  • Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post All About That Grain! | Legs and Rails | Sideboard Series Pt 1 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

This walnut and copper sideboard ended up being one of those projects where I leaned all the way into the details. The goal was to combine the warmth of walnut with the contrast and refinement of copper, and to do it in a way that felt intentional, not gimmicky.

The build pushed me into a lot of precision work, careful milling, tight joinery, and a fair amount of problem-solving along the way. From shaping parts to integrating the copper accents cleanly into the design, every step required slowing down and thinking through the process before making cuts. This wasn’t a fast build, but it was a rewarding one.

I walk through the entire project in the video, explaining not just how things were done, but why I made certain design and tool choices. If you’re interested in pushing your skills a bit, working with mixed materials, or just enjoying a build that’s unapologetically “extra,” this one’s for you.

Free plans are available if you want to tackle the sideboard yourself, and the full video series covers everything from rough stock to final assembly and finish.

Stuff I Used:

• Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Backside Sandpaper
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Carbide Burr (Ball)
• Large Core Box Bit
• Mouse Card Scraper
• Leigh Dovetail Jig
• My Vacuum Press Setup
• Taper Maker Hardware Kit
• RevMark White Marker
• White Pencil
• Festool Domino
• Festool OF1400 Router
• 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
• Titebond Extend
• Dovetail Bit
• Milwaukee Die Grinder
• Cove Bit
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Milwaukee Compact Router

Download the FREE Plans:

• PDF Cut List & Plan
• PDF Cut List & Plan (Metric)

The post Walnut Sideboard Build: Live Edge, Copper & Advanced Woodworking! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Download the FREE Plans:

• Wine Box Plan (Freedom Version)
• Wine Box Plan (Metric)

Stuff I Used in the Video:

• Backside Sandpaper
• Mahoney’s Polymerized Walnut Oil
• Titebond Hide Glue
• Titebond Speedset Glue
• Incra Miter 5000 Sled
• Laser Transfer Tape

The post When the Gift Box IS the Gift! | Wine Box appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

These smaller two pieces will be constructed differently than the larger pieces we made in part 1 of this series. Both the upper and lower cabinets will be fully constructed in the shop using rabbets and dados. Since the upper case needs doors and the lower case needs drawers, building everything in the shop really makes life a lot easier.

I’ll show you how to size your joinery and workpieces to get an exact final dimension that fits perfectly into the final space. For the bottom cabinet, I’ll show you how to build the drawers as well as hang the drawers using Blum undermount slides. For the upper case I’ll show you how to build beautiful frame and panel doors with hints of the Mission style.

I will then spend a good deal of time showing you a great technique for attaching drawer fronts.

Both cabinets are then installed in the space, trimmed, scribed and finished. With the drawer fronts and doors already fully constructed, the final step is simply adding them to the cases.

Stuff Used in the Video:

• Backside 2-Sided Sandpaper
• Titebond Liquid Hide Glue
• Merle Corner Clamp
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Festool TS55
• Milwaukee Drill and Driver Combo
• Festool Domino 500
• Shelf Pin Jig
• Adjustable Oval Closet Rod
• Milwaukee Compact Router
• Accuscribe Scribing Tool
• Titebond Quick & Thick
• Rockler Bandy Clamps
• Milwaukee 18 ga Brad Nailer
• Timbermate Wood Filler
• 3M 6500 Respirator
• Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
• Hardwax Oil Comparison Video

The post A Feast for the Eyes! | Walk-in Dream Closet Part 2 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Now don’t get me wrong, if you want to use c-channel as something of an insurance policy, go for it! But don’t do it under the illusion that it’s actually necessary. In this video I’ll show you just a few of the many examples of table tops I’ve made that are still flat, but without any more reinforcement than what’s provided by the furniture itself.

Now before anyone starts sending finger farts in my direction, I understand that wood is a natural product. There’s always a chance a table top will misbehave. It happens. However, if the wood is properly dried, milled, and attached to a solid base, there’s a high probability that the top will remain flat for generations. Think long and hard before you plunk down the case and spend the time assaulting your table top with C-channel. And let me know if you agree that C-Channel is a Waste of Time.

For tips and tricks on making panels that stay flat, check out this video! 

Looking for my Backside…Sandpaper? Go here!

The post C-Channel is Overrated! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

This time in our Community Shop Tour series we’re looking at some envy-inducing shops, either due to the number/quality of tools or the amount of space available. These folks put a lot of time and resources into the design and organization of their shop space, and it really shows! So grab a paper towel for the drool and enjoy.

Special thanks to the folks who took the time to submit these tours:

• Erick Ridout in Utah
• Scott Timmins in Tennessee
• Mike Gervais in Utah
• Bob Cooper in S. Carolina

Looking for more shop inspiration? Check out our HUGE library of Shop Tours!

The pre-order is over, but you can still get immediate access to the Schwarz Stick Chair Course: https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/american-welsh-stick-chair/

The post I Could Do That Too If I Had Those Tools! | Shop Tours appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

After moving into our new house, Nicole proceeded to hang her clothes on the builder-grade wire shelving, like you do. The next day, she walked in to see an entire wall of clothes laying on the ground. Eventually the second wall of clothes came tumbling down as well as the third. Needless to say, she was very frustrated and the closet project was pushed to the top of the honey-do list.

Sketch and Planning

To get started, I took exact measurements of the space and built a rough representation in SketchUp. By the way, if you’d like to learn more about SketchUp, check our out introductory course in the Wood Whisperer Guild: Intro to SketchUp. With the space roughed out I can easily devise a plan of attack for the cabinets. If you’re doing this yourself, you’ll definitely want to get the significant other involved during this phase as they’ll likely have thoughts on the number and placement of shelves and hanging bars as well as other features like shoe bins. In order for it to be a true walk-in dream closet, it has to be customized to the owners specifications.

Prep the Space

Back in the closet you’ll want to prep the space by removing baseboards, filling old holes, and painting where necessary. In our case, we also had a floor register to deal with. We decided to redirect the airflow under the cabinets and through the toe kick with the help of a cool product called The Toe Ductor.

The cabinets will sit on top of bases made from 2x4s and OSB underlayment. The nice thing about using bases like this is that they automatically create the toe-kick space while also giving us a flat level surface to install the cabinets.

Process the Plywood

Back at the shop, we were able to cut the 3/4″ cherry plywood (nothing but the best for Nicole’s Walk-in dream closet) down to the appropriate sizes, adding shelf pin holes and joinery where needed. Because we plan to assemblei on-site, we’ll be using a combination of Dominos (to locate the parts) and pocket screws (to pull the pieces together).

Pre-Finish

The plywood components are much easier to finish prior to assembly. It also limits the amount of finishing we’ll need to do in the house, which is always nice. The finish we’re using is Osmo 2K Wood Oil, which performed very well in our Hardwax Oil Comparison.

Assemble On-Site

The cabinets are so large that they would be very difficult to install if they were pre-assembled. I honestly don’t know that we would even be able to fit them through our bathroom and the closet door. After each cabinet is assembled on the floor, we lift them onto the base, check that everything is level and plumb, and then secure the units to the wall and each other.

Apply Face-Frame Trim

While it’s common to assemble a face-frame prior to attaching to the case, I really didn’t think it was feasible in my situation. So I cut and installed each piece one by one. Of course where the face frame contacts the wall, we needed to scribe the stile to the contours of the wall. An easier alternative would be to apply an additional thin piece of trim that can be bent to the shape of the wall and secured on top of the face frame.

Finishing Touches

To finish off the cabinets, we applied crown molding and then finished any bare wood. The toe kick was also applied under the cabinets, making sure we included a gap for the HVAC duct.

Stuff Used in the Video:

• Osmo 2K Wood Oil
• Backside 2-Sided Sandpaper
• Ceiling Hole Cutter
• Amana Countersink Bit
• Festool TS55
• Milwaukee Drill and Driver Combo
• The Toe Ductor
• Kreg K4 Pocket Hole Jig
• Festool Domino 500
• Shelf Pin Jig
• Match Fit Dovetail Clamps
• Adjustable Oval Closet Rod
• Milwaukee Compact Router
• Accuscribe Scribing Tool
• Titebond Quick & Thick
• Rockler Bandy Clamps
• Milwaukee 18 ga Brad Nailer
• Timbermate Wood Filler
• Miter Spring Clamps
• 3M 6500 Respirator
• Milwaukee Jig Saw
• Chris Schwarz’s American Welsh Stick Chair Course
• Hardwax Oil Comparison Video

The post Her Clothes Fell Off the Wall | Walk-In Dream Closet Part 1 appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Stuff I Used:

• Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Blocks
• Minwax Spray Lacquer
• Milwaukee Trim Router
• 1/8″ Radius Roundover Bit

The post Organize Your Kitchen Drawers! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

Step 1 – Remove the doors, drawers, and hardware. You can’t expect to lay down an even finish if you have to navigate around obstacles. So take the time to remove everything you can. It’s a good idea to label the parts using some masking tape and a marker so you can keep track of them and make sure each door and drawer returns to its original location.

Step 2 – Smooth the problem areas. If you were to apply new paint over an old paint job with no surface prep, the rough surface will just telegraph through the finish and you’ll be no better off. Furthermore, there’s likely oil and grease on the cabinets that should be removed for the sake of getting a good bond with the new paint. You can alleviate both issues by simply sanding the surface. You don’t necessarily need to sand back to bare wood though you certainly could. As long as we level the surface and even out the flawed areas, the new paint should lay down smooth. Of course, you’ll want to remove any sanding dust with a vacuum.

Step 3 – An important part of getting a smooth and seamless look with a kitchen paint job is caulking. The gaps that exist between cabinets and trim will stick out like an eyesore, especially with white and other light-colored paints. So take your time to caulk any gaps you see and let it dry completely before moving on to the painting step.

Step 4 – Apply new high-quality paint. On the face frames, I find it easiest to use a good-quality brush. Spraying always gives me better results but I’m usually not prepared for all of the masking required to spray in an existing kitchen. If there are any large surfaces that need painting like a cabinet side, a smooth roller is a good option. For the doors and drawers, spraying is the way to go if possible. These days you can pick up an inexpensive turbine sprayer that will get the job done for about $130. Or step up a bit to this model: Earlex 5700. Or step up even more to my favorite brand, Fuji. You might have to dilute the paint to get the right viscosity but it’s worth the effort. Apply as many coats as you need in order to get a nice even and consistent color and sheen.

The difference in surface quality is night and day when you use the correct materials and methods. Ideally, no one should notice the paint job. They should see the cabinets and admire them, but if they ‘notice’ the paint job, something is wrong. So hopefully this helps you fix a bad paint job if you ever need to.

Easy links to products I reference in the video:

• Rockler HVLP Turbine
• Earlex 5700 Sprayer – https://amzn.to/3D8pVid
• Fuji Semi Pro – https://amzn.to/46qPCHT
• Festool ETS 150 Random Orbit Sander – https://amzn.to/450izsF
• Blue Shop Towels – https://amzn.to/3Y7Tvho
• Caulking Gun – https://amzn.to/4515kbd
• Sherwin Williams Caulk – https://amzn.to/475ssHo
• Purdy Paint Brushes – https://amzn.to/3rMLm61
• Floetrol – https://amzn.to/44HPRNs
• Rocker Bench Cookies
• Marc’s Respirator – https://amzn.to/3Yd2n5s
• Respirator Filters – https://amzn.to/3YdpAnR

The post How to Fix a BAD Kitchen Cabinet Paint Job appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

If you want to try your hand at this project, take a look at the full course in the Wood Whisperer Guild: Criss-Cross Dining Table & Bench

The finish I used is Bumblechutes, a natural tung oil finish. You can save 10% using the code TWW10 at Bumblechutes.com

The post I Made the PERFECT Bench for Our Criss-Cross Table appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

For a long time, Rubio Monocoat was essentially the only option in the 2-component hardwax oil category, and its premium pricing reflected that lack of competition. Fast-forward to 2023 and the landscape looks very different. Several manufacturers now offer 2-component alternatives, and it’s clear the market has shifted. It’ll be interesting to see how things continue to evolve over the next few years.

In the meantime, I put together this hardwax oil comparison using cherry and walnut samples, all cut from the same boards for consistency. The finishes tested were:

• Rubio Monocoat
• Natura Onecoat
• Rustic Lumber Furniture Oil
• General Finishes Hardwax Oil
• Osmo 2K Wood Oil

Sheen Testing

Samples were evaluated for overall sheen after both one coat and two coats. Because subtle sheen differences are difficult to capture accurately on video, we opted for blind testing with three separate people.

Results:

• Marc: Walnut: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – General Finishes

• Jason: Walnut: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – General Finishes

• Nicole: Walnut: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – General Finishes

• Marc: Cherry: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – General Finishes

• Jason: Cherry: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – General Finishes

• Nicole: Cherry: Most sheen – Osmo | Least sheen – Unable to spot a difference

Despite the differences being subtle, the results were remarkably consistent. With one exception, all testers selected Osmo as having the most sheen and General Finishes as having the least sheen on both cherry and walnut. The remaining finishes, Rustic Lumber, Natura, and Rubio, were essentially indistinguishable.

It’s also worth noting that Osmo was the only finish to show a noticeable amount of gloss after just one coat. While all the other finishes improved with a second coat, none matched Osmo’s sheen.

Abrasion Testing

I explored several methods to test abrasion resistance in a meaningful way, but ultimately couldn’t come up with a test that produced actionable results. These finishes are non-film-forming and don’t provide significant abrasion protection beyond basic liquid resistance. In most cases, scratch durability has more to do with the wood itself than the finish.

In my view, comparing hardwax oils based on scratch resistance is a bit like debating which brand of plastic wrap makes the best suit of armor.

Liquid Testing

Each sample board was divided into six sections, with each section exposed to a different liquid or wet material for 15 minutes. Due to the level of damage observed at that point, I didn’t see a need for an overnight exposure test. For full details, you can reference the spreadsheet: Hardwax Oil Comparison – Liquid Test Spreadsheet

Results:

• Natura Onecoat – 17 (least damage)
• Rustic Lumber Finish – 24
• Rubio Monocoat – 26
• Osmo 2K Wood Oil – 28
• General Finishes – 30 (most damage)

Skin-Over Test

There’s nothing worse than opening an expensive finish only to find it has solidified in the can. To evaluate this, I tested the oil components alone, without hardener, exposing them to oxygen for 24 and 48 hours. My assumption was that finishes that set up faster would also be more prone to premature skinning in the can.

Results:

• General Finishes remained liquid with no skin after 48 hours

• Natura Onecoat remained liquid at 24 hours but skinned over by 48 hours

• All other finishes skinned over within 24 hours

Repair Test

Repairability is one of the main selling points of hardwax oils. Unlike traditional film finishes, which require sanding through multiple layers, hardwax oils should allow for clean spot repairs.

To test this, we repaired the liquid-damaged sample boards by sanding to remove raised grain and dull the finish, focusing primarily on the damaged areas with only light scuffing around them. The surfaces were then cleaned and recoated with their respective finishes.

Results:

Every sample showed a visible repair. From some angles the repair was difficult to see, but from most vantage points it was noticeable. While these finishes are still far more repairable than traditional varnishes or polys, the repairs were not perfect, or even great. If this were a client table, the repair would not pass muster.

In practice, I usually sand and refinish the entire surface rather than attempt a localized repair. For reference, here’s the tannin remover mentioned: Rubio Tanin Remover

Conclusions

First and foremost, these finishes are more alike than they are different. This category of finishes has a fairly fixed set of characteristics, and the differences between brands are generally subtle. That said, here are the category winners:

• Most Durable: Natura Onecoat
• Best Looking: Osmo 2K Wood Oil
• Best Value: Rustic Lumber Finish
• Overall Winner: Natura Onecoat

The post I Tested the Most Popular Hardwax Oils. The Results Surprised Me. appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The key to making this work is cutting off a thin veneer from the top face of the board. The magnets are then installed in the board and the veneer is added on top to provide a nearly seamless look.

• Use code TWW10 to save 10% at Bumblechutes.com
• Get your Wood Whisperer T-Shirt! TWWStore.com
• Magnets I used: KJ Magnetics D84

The post Sharp & Attractive Way to Store Kitchen Knives! appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.

The Problem with Other Reviews

I’ve seen a lot of clamp reviews over the years from both professional and amateur reviewers alike. Most perform a series of pseudo-scientific tests as well as some torture tests. Initially these parameters may seem important but actually do very little to tell you how the clamps will perform over the yers. So when I decided to conduct my review of the Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamps, I knew I had to adapt a more common sense approach.

How My Review is Different

In my review, I won’t be testing things like panel flatness, head squareness, or clamping force. If you’d like to know more about why, watch this video: The Truth about Parallel Clamps). Instead, we’re going to do something incredibly ground-breaking: we’re going to use the clamps for a few months. I purchased four clamps directly from my local Harbor Freight and used the clamps in numerous glueups. Between glueups, we exposed the clamps to daily stress via mock glueups. One of the clamps was designated as the “abuse clamp” and received a little more rough treatment than the other three. The rough treatment included aggressive handling as well as repeated dragging of the head over the serrated bar.

Conclusion

If you’re in a rush, here’s a quick summary. But I highly recommend you watch the entire video for full context. Of the four clamps we tested, one failed. We noticed the clamp slipping after a few months whenever pressure was applied. We dissected the clamp and discovered that the malleable head material was ground smooth, which lead to the premature smoothing of the serrated teeth on the bar. A smooth bar translates to a head that can’t get a grip. During our testing we deliberately mistreated one of the four clamps as a bit of a torture test. Oddly enough, the clamp that failed was NOT the clamp that received the additional abuse.

Finally, we put the Harbor Freight Lifetime Guarantee to the test. The return at our local store was easy and uneventful and the broken clamp was replaced with a new one.

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and performance of the Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamps. In spite of the premature failure I experienced, I think many woodworkers would be well-served by these clamps especially given the cost savings and the peace of mind provided by the lifetime guarantee. But if you put a lot of hours on these clamps, I suspect you’ll be testing that return policy sooner than later.

The post Harbor Freight Bremen Parallel Clamp 4-Month Review appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.