what’s cookin’

Hey there, I hope you had a Happy 415 Day! I love rebranding tax day. In the same SF spirit, don’t forget it’s SF Restaurant Week. I ran some of my favorite deals and meals last week, and you have through Sunday April 19th to enjoy special-priced menus from 200 restaurants. And, it’s a good weekend to stay in the City—the Caltrans work on I-80 and subsequent nightmare with Bay Bridge traffic begins Friday night through Monday morning, eeeee.

4/20 is puffing up next Monday, and SF Space Walk is already underway with a series of events and party drops at local dispensaries all week, check the lineup here. Don’t miss the Sunday screening of the Join the Club documentary film about Dennis Peron I wrote about a few months ago, it’s so moving and important! Incredible doc. Your $30 ticket includes a Brownie Mary Democratic Club membership, and it’s screening at Meadow HQ in SoMa, who are such fine folks!

Another film tidbit: there’s an entertaining weekly newsletter I subscribe to, Secret Breakfast, which pointed me to this short film, Sandiwara, shot by the talented Sean Baker (Anora) on an iPhone in two days (!) with the gorgeous Michelle Yeoh, who plays five characters (almost all have a connection to food) in Penang, Malaysia. Enjoy the visual banquet.

More eye candy! The San Francisco Art Fair is running April 16th–19th, at Fort Mason’s Festival Pavilion. (Don’t miss my good friend John Nieto’s work in Vaunt Gallery’s booth D30.)

This Saturday April 18th is the 120th anniversary of the 1906 Earthquake and Fire, and there are still a couple spots open on this special cocktail and bar history walking tour with writer Camper English of Alcademics. Enjoy the sunny day while walkin’ and boozin’ and learnin’. 1:30pm–4:30pm. $100. 21+.

Attention shoppers! It looks like Imperfect Foods/Misfit Foods is running another $25 referral offer for first-time users of their grocery delivery service. I order from them about once a month since they have some good deals and you don’t need me to tell you how expensive it is to get groceries in SF. Some current faves include the MeatCrafters Thai chicken sausage (tasty for lunch), Ataulfo mangoes, their organic blueberries have been delicious lately with organic coconut yogurt, their five-year aged cheddar is a solid staple in my cheese drawer, and any deals they’re running on Fishwife products (like smoked trout with red chimichurri). The special offer ends 4/30!

Your gurl is getting ready to leave for New York next week for my first Cherry Bombe Jubilee, and I’m getting excited. It feels fitting to celebrate tablehopper’s 20th anniversary with a trip to New York! This next week is going to be hectic as I try to get outta here, so apologies in advance if I don’t get back to you quickly. 

And I need to turn the beat around—an herbal supplement I took over the weekend took me down hard, after just one dose. Not to be TMI, but a bunch of you readers are in my demographic, and I think it’s worth sending a quick cautionary tale for my fellow (peri)menopausal ladies who take herbal supplements: tread carefully with black cohosh! She isn’t playing! I almost passed out in my Sunday yoga class and I’ve been wiped out for four days, WTF. And, yes, I went to my doctor and we’re looking at my labs—things are off. (I was telling my weird story to a friend and she told me about a bad experience with DHEA supplements and HRT.) See, all the Gen X ladies are out here disrupting menopause and running interference for everyone. Just consider this a PSA that if you’re taking black cohosh, please read more about how it can potentially react with your liver, and in some rare cases even damage it. Lesson learned, jeesh.

Last week, I was so sorry to see the awful news that chef Jeremiah Tower’s dear husband, the shining Curtis Cox, has passed away due to a longterm, incurable illness and complications from COVID. How devastating. Some friends have launched a GoFundMe to help Tower cover memorial expenses and some debt he incurred from medical and related bills while caring for Curtis. You can also show support by subscribing to JT’s must-read newsletter, Out of the Oven. Sending condolences and caring thoughts.

Let’s get into today’s column. I should be able to follow up with more news and stories for you next week when I’m feeling less punky.

Take it easy,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Owners of the Original El Faro Just Had Their Rent Doubled and Now the 65-Year-Old Taqueria Is for Sale

I hated hearing the news that the landlord of the original El Faro in the Mission has doubled the rent of the 65-year-old taqueria, which has basically forced owners Raymunda Ramírez and Patrick Kocourek to put the restaurant up for sale to avoid bankruptcy (via SFGATE). 

The taqueria is a Legacy Business, founded in 1961 by Febronio Ontiveros, who claimed to have made the first super burrito (La Cumbre also lays claim to making the first Mission-style burrito). 

Ramírez started as an employee in 1979, and bought the business from Ontiveros in 2003. She has weathered so many tough times recently (you may remember she was trying to recover from four robberies!), and now, she’s fighting to avoid eviction. At the moment, she really needs help to cover the new double rent; please read her personal letter on her GoFundMe that she launched March 24th (fortunately, the GoFundMe is halfway there—let’s keep it going so she can catch her breath). 

I’m hoping to hear a story of this matter getting shown some support by Mayor Lurie’s office. People, do what you can! And go get a breakfast burrito. Open daily 7am–7pm. 2399 Folsom St. at 20th St.

Quick Opening Notes: New Ramen on Polk, Cemitas, Specialty Vietnamese Coffee

A First Kitchen Table Book from a Longtime SF Restaurant Consultant, Bon Vivant, and Lifetime Lover of Food

Last week, I plunked into a corner booth for dinner at The Big Four with my longtime friend, Faith Wheeler—we were introduced in the beginning of my freelance writing career, which was before I launched tablehopper, so it has been more than 20 years! Joining us at the table was the sole copy of her brand-new and first book, Chickens Don’t Fly.

Anyone who has been involved in San Francisco’s restaurant industry for some time should know Faith Wheeler, the creative consulting force behind restaurants like The Slanted Door (she visited in the restaurant’s first days and offered to rewrite Charles Phan’s menu for free), and she’s the Faith of the Faith’s Cheese Toast that was on the menu at Town Hall. Prior to founding her own restaurant consulting firm, FW&Co., she was marketing director for Larry Mindel’s Spectrum Foods, a restaurant group some of you may remember fondly, with trendy white-tablecloth restaurants like Ciao! (one of SF’s early Cal-Ital restaurants) and Prego (the breadsticks!). What a time to be in the restaurant world. 

Faith had right timing in her career: prior to her SF restaurant consulting life, she was working in advertising at Goodby Berlin and Silverstein, and before that, she was in New York in the ’80s at Ogilvy & Mather, with clients like Tiffany & Co. and Steuben Glass. She was born a New York City girl, and raised in New Jersey, but left to attend Vanderbilt University in Nashville for a Mid-South chapter in her life—and her new book.

She’s calling Chickens Don’t Fly a “kitchen table book,” which is a combination of a coffee table book, a cookbook, and a memoir. There are 220 pages of stories, photographs, and over 100 recipes that span seven chapters and settings of her interesting life: NYC, Nashville, San Francisco, St. Helena, Asia, Paris, and Todos Santos, MX, where she currently spends as much time chasing sunsets as possible. 

Unless you’re family or friends with Faith, you wouldn’t necessarily know how much a great cook she is—but you don’t have a career in the restaurant industry as long as she did unless you really love food and drink (and good stories). The recipes have been collected along the way in her peripatetic life, improving with age and experience, from her winning college chili (now made with Rancho Gordo beans), to her French onion tart inspired by a chef friend, to her version of the iconic Diana’s Meat Pie from Henry’s Hunan. They’re all tried-and-true dishes you want in your wheelhouse (the Wheelerhouse?), whether you’re hosting brunch or cooking midweek dinner for your daughters or in charge of Christmas dessert.

It’s a beautiful, classy book with her favorite green on the cover (published by PRINT, a book agency and company formed by two Assouline alums), with evocative photos by Clay McLachlan of New York restaurants, vintage signs in Nashville, and hunger-inducing Korean-inspired short ribs. There are only a few chicken recipes—like the title implies, you will find it’s Faith’s personal stories that are meant to inspire you to live your life fearlessly. She’s big on trusting your gut, whether you’re reading the vibes or a menu. You may not know Faith, but you’ll share a good dinner with her while cooking your way through her book. Keep it on your kitchen table for inspiration of all kinds.🍸

How to Order/Book Signings
You can pre-order the book here, and be sure to meet the dynamic woman behind the Devilish Deviled Eggs at these upcoming book signings at Hudson Grace stores around California. The signing in SF next week (April 22nd) is going to be a blast, I wish I was in town.

April 16th (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace 2403 Larkspur Landing Circle
April 22nd (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace, 3350 Sacramento St., San Francisco
April 26th (1pm–3pm): Signing in the kitchen at the SF Showcase
April 29th (5pm–7pm): Hudson Grace, Brentwood
May 1st (4pm–6pm): Hudson Grace, Montecito

sponsored event

Get Your Tickets for a Weekend of Fun Events at the Fifth Annual Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience, May 14th–17th

Experience the best of Sonoma and beyond at the Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience (May 14th–17th). This weekend-long festival celebrates local farmers, world-renowned winemakers, and top chefs from around the world and local favorites! 

The Vintners Plaza Grand Tasting on Saturday May 16th is the centerpiece of the weekend, with over 150 wines, beers, and spirits, plus curated bites from nationally recognized chefs including Joe Sasto, Nadia Caterina Munno “The Pasta Queen,” Viet Pham, Lee Anne Wong, Britt Rescigno, and more! 

Start the weekend early with lunch on Friday at a special Shifting the Lens Brunch with chef Stephanie Izard at J Vineyards and Winery, or a Garden-to-Table Lunch at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate & Gardens. Or chow down at a lunchtime Barbecue with Matt Horn at Orsi Family Vineyards.

Rock out Friday night to an Outdoor Concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards, featuring the soulful sounds of 19-year-old, award-winning guitarist-singer Grace Bowers. Opening for Grace is Hannah Ellis, a country music singer/songwriter who will sing her hit song, “Wine Country!”

Want to up your wine game? Join dynamic and fun wine seminars, including 150 Years of Beringer and “Don’t Bust My Chops” Red Wine Loves Lamb: Food & Wine Seminar.

This is your chance to indulge in the ultimate Wine Country celebration. Join us May 14–17th—tickets are on sale now at healdsburgwineandfood.com.

the lush

Spring for the New Release from Brucato Spirits

the archivist

Thanks for reading tablehopper—become a supporting subscriber and you’ll get to see cool SF and vintage restaurant ephemera from my personal collection every month.

what’s cookin’

Hello, peeps. I hope you had a very Hoppy Easter. Sis and I enjoyed a family dinner with our parents in their balmy backyard, replete with a huge bowl of the most delicate housemade pasta (thanks, Carm!) and juicy leg of lamb off the barbecue; joining us was an array of beautiful birds feasting nearby at their bird feeder. A sunny Easter Sunday always feels like a special gift (especially if you’re at Dolores Park for Hunky Jesus—suns out, buns out!).

The night before, sissy and I were rocking out to Fcukers at The Castro Theatre—it was my first time seeing the $41 million worth of renovations in person (finally!). The restored ceiling is utterly breathtaking—I couldn’t believe all the details we never saw due to the 100 years of cigarette smoke buildup and dirt. I’m including a picture from 2022 so you can compare the difference. Incroyable.

We got to the show early so we could stake out a spot on the new tiered levels in front of the stage in the orchestra section, and admired the original proscenium that was uncovered and is now visible in all its opulent glory.

The show rocked, but, sadly, the sound was wonky—the vocals were really muted, and we could barely understand a word when lead vocalist Shanny Wise spoke to the audience on the mic. (My sis noted we needed subtitles.) Some friends noticed the same thing, while others said it sounded better upstairs. Here’s hoping the sound team dials it all in before I drop more money on another live show there—I didn’t hear any complaints about Sam Smith’s shows, so maybe it depends upon the style of the musical act. I’m going to stick with watching a film next—it’s time to hear David Hegarty bust out San Francisco on the new organ!

For my fellow cinema buffs, check out this article (“The 24 most breathtaking cinemas in the world”). Sadly, The Castro must not have been ready in time, but it really should be the 25th!

It was wonderful to see the Castro neighborhood buzzing with people (Saturday was also a warm evening), and I’m sure the local bars are experiencing new clientele coming in (I overheard a young 20-something asking her friend about the Twin Peaks bar—I almost wanted to see how that was going to play out). I recommend having a cocktail before or after a show at the nearby Lobby Bar (we did both, LOL: pregame and nightcap!). You can read my early piece about the bar here; some things have changed over the past year, including the bar team, but we loved the fab service (thanks, Oscar!) and well-made cocktails. They have plenty of N/A cocktails and bites, too.

I’m so damn excited to be leaving for New York in a couple weeks to attend my first Cherry Bombe Jubilee—is anyone from SF going? Springtime in New York! Cue the Gershwin. Would you believe my last visit was right before the pandemic? 2019! Ugh! Too long! There are so many places I need to revisit (including Russ & Daughters, I want a sabich from Taïm, and I’m really trying hard to get a table at Raoul’s for their epic steak au poivre—I haven’t been since I lived in New York in 2016!). A late-night slice of Joe’s Pizza will likely happen after drinks at nearby Little Branch, forever a favorite.

As for new spots, I’m thrilled to have a table booked at Le Veau d’Or (I can practically taste that Martini!), I plan to stalk the braised oxtail gratin at Markette, and since I’m staying in the West Village, I can’t stop dreaming over my future dinner at Bartolo—it’s such a chic dining room (the light, the linens!), and you know I’m coming home with a lynx ashtray.

Also on my go-get-it list: lunch at Roscioli NYC, the ham and cheese pithivier at Wildair, and finally making a pizza pilgrimage to Razza. Feel free to send any can’t-miss recos my way, although I don’t know how I can fit it all in, especially since I’m planning to visit the Cooper Hewitt for the Art of Noise exhibit, the Biennial at the Whitney, Egon Schiele at Neue Galerie (plus a swing-by to Café Sabarsky), and a Helmut Newton x Steven Klein show at Staley Wise Gallery. tablehopper, you betta hop!

I haven’t seen any DJs listed who I can’t miss (yet), so at least I have a chance of some full days of running around instead of sleeping off a late night of dancing until 4am. Famous last words. Ha! I’m the worst. Send me any cute parties! (I’m there from April 22nd–28th.) Can’t. Wait.

Related: I really enjoyed this recent post on Restaurant-ing Through History about the tea rooms of Harlem in the 1920s. Check it out.

OK, let’s get to the news, along with my writeup of where to get some tasty tonkatsu, and I have a fun ticket giveaway for you beloved supporting subscribers, thank youuuuuu!

XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Inner Sunset’s Caché Opening a Second Location in the Financial District (with a Full Bar)

In just a little over a year after opening the modern bistro Caché in the Inner Sunset—the first SF project from French owners Florent Thomas and chef Simon Mounier—the team just announced an upcoming second location in the Financial District; they plan to open in fall 2026. They’re raising funds on The SMBX, where you can purchase CACH Small Business Bonds, check it out.

Mangrove Thai Kitchen on Divisadero Transforms Into Song Wat

I saw a post from @divisaderocorridor that noticed Mangrove Thai Kitchen appeared to be temporarily closed until February 2027. Thanks to my neighborhood stringer, I found out the concept has actually flipped to “Song Wat, named after an iconic Street in Bangkok’s Chinatown and built by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1892, whose portrait hangs prominently on the wall.” Song Wat is co-owned by Atthapon Inkhong, who is also one of the owners of Kan Kiin, a Michelin Guide–recognized Thai restaurant in Daly City.

My NoPa informant got a look inside the dining room, which has been redesigned with a colorful style and new décor on the walls (including vintage-inspired ads from Song Wat, and a shelving unit stocked with residential décor), while a server station looks like a supermarket shelf from 75 years ago. Round tables for group dining have been added to the middle of the dining room, replacing the former heavy rectangular tables (but the tufted booths along one wall remain).

They’re currently in their soft-opening phase and open daily from 5pm–9pm. Starting next month, Song Wat will open for lunch from 11am–2pm. 312 Divisadero St. at Page.

Hologram Opens in the Outer Richmond, Bringing Retro and Ohana Vibes to Your Day

Sometimes the Instagram algorithm really knows what I’m looking for. Newly open as of last Friday April 3rd is Hologram, a retro-styled neighborhood café in the Outer Richmond from Snowbird Coffee’s Eugene and Anneliese Kim (the coffee roaster opened in the Inner Sunset in 2014). The husband-and-wife duo later expanded with more cafés, and even a breakfast spot in Alameda, but were forced to scale back during the pandemic (but they kept the original Snowbird).

After making it through some tough times and doing some reflection on what was important to them (health, time, and community), they realized they really missed having a place to gather and just be able to sit and hang out (Snowbird became grab and go during COVID). Eugene, who grew up in the Richmond and the Sunset, always has his eye on neighborhood buildings and spotted the available location (previously Umami Sushi and Dumpling Alley; it looks like Mission Local reported on this a few months ago). When the couple realized it came with a full kitchen, their passion project really began to take shape.

Annaliese, who is Filipina and grew up on Oahu, misses the affordable, Hawaiian-style comfort food of her childhood, so she wanted to offer some diner-style dishes that are accessible to the everyday person (along with coffee, of course). There’s a Hawaiian plate with Portuguese sausage, rice, and eggs, and a couple of the café’s cold brews have coconut or ube cream tops (the Kona Gold comes with dried coconut). They will offer a few more of their specialty coffee drinks, like the Spaniard (with condensed milk).

Since they have a bunch of friends in the food industry, they look forward to hosting pop-ups in the future, and since they bought the beer-and-wine license from the former business, they plan to hold local wine dinners, too.

Hologram has 20–30 seats, with some round tables inside that seat 4, and outdoor tables are coming. The space has a nostalgic and Mid-Century look, with orange tiles that remind me of my childhood (as well as the tiles that were outside Five Happiness on Geary, now L H Restaurant), along with retro stacking chairs, and vintage-style orange glass pendant and Nelson bubble saucer lamps. There’s also a piece of art from local duo KEFE (Kelly Tunstall and Ferris Plock), and a bunch of fun merch and items from Freddie’s Lifestyle Shop in the corner (and you can buy some Snowbird Coffee beans to bring home). 

I asked Anneliese about the name, and she said a hologram is nostalgic of the 90s, while also a reflection of light from the past that is brought into the future, which is a lovely expression of what they’re doing here. Hours are Wed–Sun 8am–2pm, and will expand as they staff up and get going. 2512 Clement St. at 26th Ave.

Two Longtime Bay Area Restaurants Closing After 30-Plus Years in Business

Over the weekend, I was sorry to see this Instagram post from Millennium Restaurant announcing the upcoming closure of their Rockridge location after service on May 16th. The groundbreaking, upscale vegan restaurant first opened in San Francisco 32 years ago, in 1994, which is the year I moved to the City. (Wow, memories!) In 2015, executive chef-partner Eric Tucker and GM Alison Bagby closed the SF location in the Hotel California (at 580 Geary)—much to the dismay of their SF fanbase—and moved to Oakland and reopened later that year. Their loyal customers will miss opening the restaurant doors with the clever asparagus and carrot handles, but hopefully they will be in use again since the team may be launching a different version of Millennium in the future, stand by. 5912 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland.

SFGATE wrote about the closure of Outer Richmond diner Eat Americana, which is closing after 30 years (owner Tony Lai is reportedly retiring). According to the story, “In 2016, Lai brought a local chef, James Moisey, on board to overhaul the menu into what it is today. Moisey had become well-known in San Francisco for his gluttonous, yet creative takes on diner food after stints at the Broken Record bar and his own restaurant, Rickybobby.” The diner’s last day of business will be Sunday April 12th. 3532 Balboa St.

This Friday, It’s Time to Go Out and Eat for SF Restaurant Week

Thanks to all of you who entered the San Francisco Restaurant Week giveaway on @tablehopper! 

Beginning this Friday April 10th through Sunday April 19th, you can take your pick from 200 restaurants throughout San Francisco that will offer prix-fixe lunch, brunch, and dinner menus for takeout, delivery, indoor, and outdoor dining. It’s a great time to meet a friend for lunch, or hit the town and try a new place for dinner! Be sure to look at the individual listings to see the SFRW menus and make your reservation. Here are a few offers that caught my eye:

For the giveaway, one winner gets a $150 gift certificate to Delfina, which is serving a classic dinner menu of guest faves for $65: primi: grilled calamari and white beans or insalata di campo; secondi: roasted chicken with mushrooms and olive oil mashed potatoes, or hanger steak and French fries, or spaghetti pomodoro; and for dessert: buttermilk panna cotta, or profiteroles with espresso gelato, warm chocolate sauce, and almonds. At Pizzeria Delfina, they’re doing a $45 menu with chicken or eggplant Parm! 

We also gave away a $100 gift certificate to Brenda’s French Soul Food, which has a $25 brunch menu and $35 lunch menu offer.

You can check out the atmospheric AMA by Bradley Kilgore with their $75 dinner menu (viewable here), which includes their kakigori for dessert.

I dig the upbeat Latin Caribbean Chao Pescao near City Hall, and their tasty ropa vieja is on their $35 three-course lunch menu, as well as their $75 five-course dinner menu, which also lists their deeeeeelicious lechón cubano (slow-cooked pork shoulder, salsa de mojo, habanero salsa, and the brilliant gremolata de chicharrón).

Flour + Water Pizzeria is running a Pizza Power Lunch with a $25 midday special for dine-in guests. Take your choice of a Caesar or chop salad, followed by a choice of Margherita, cacio e pepe, or pesto pizza. 532 Columbus Ave. 

At Early to Rise, the $25 weekday-only special means you basically get a warm, sugar-rolled donut and a cup of coffee (Signal Coffee) for free if you order their trademark eggs Benedict (normally $25) with their house-smoked Canadian bacon (be sure to buy a pack to bring home). You can also choose from the BLT with griddled challah bread, heirloom tomato, housemade bacon, and lemon aioli, or the seasonal blueberry-ricotta pancakes topped with almond crunch. 1801 McAllister St.

A bunch of places haven’t even posted their menus yet—be sure to check back in a couple days and look at the list of 200 restaurants participating in SFRW!

Booked Up

There are some upcoming author events for springtime book releases, starting with an upcoming book talk at Omnivore Books for Mariana Velásquez’s new book: Revel — A Maximalist’s Guide to Having People Over (sounds right up my alley), in conversation with A16’s Shelley Lindgren this Wednesday April 8th (6:30pm), and a book release dinner at A16 on Thursday April 9th (reserve from 5:30pm–9:30pm).

Velásquez is a chef, food stylist, and housewares designer who started the retail line Casa Velasquez, a brand that ventures into an unexplored consumer category: hosting-ware. Velásquez is also the designer of A16’s new restaurant, Lucania, opening later this year in the Ferry Building (more on that from me very soon!). 

In a couple weeks, cookbook author and culinary tour guide Domenica Marchetti of Domenica Cooks is going to be appearing at a number of events and signings for her Italian Cookies cookbook launch, featuring recipes and stories from all regions of Italy.

April 19th (3pm) is a book talk and cookie tasting with Kate Leahy at Omnivore Books in San Francisco; April 22nd (6pm), Marchetti is in conversation with Tori Ritchie at the Museo Italo Americano, San Francisco; April 23rd (6pm) is an appearance (La Dolce Vita Cookies & Wine) with Kitty Oestlien of Tansy Wines at Book Society Social, Berkeley; April 24th (11am–1pm) is cookies and coffee at The Caffè by Mr. Espresso, Oakland (there will be two cookies from the book especially for the event); and on April 25th (1pm–3pm), Marchetti is back in SF for the You Had Me at Almonds Pop-Up Bakesale at Kantine, San Francisco, a Cookbook Week event. Yay, we all need cookies.

fresh meat

Golden Child 

A couple months ago, I headed over to Kawanoya in Noe Valley for dinner (which you supporting subscribers already know opened recently in the former Clay Oven Indian Cuisine).

the sugar mama

Hey Boy, Hey Girl: Here’s Your Chance to Win Tickets to TOMORA at The Regency Ballroom

Last month, I attended the uplifting Franc Moody show (SO FUN) at the recently upgraded The Regency Ballroom, and they really had the sound and lighting dialed like I haven’t experienced there before. (I’m also digging that The Regency is just a quick walk down Van Ness Avenue for me.) Here’s the current calendar. 

You want to see a show, too? I have one pair of tickets to give away to TOMORA on Tuesday April 14th! This is a brand-new side project featuring Norwegian singer AURORA and Tom Rowlands of The Chemical Brothers (Aurora was on The Chems’ No Geography album). TOMORA is releasing their debut album on April 17th, and this is their fans’ first chance to hear their new music live before the album is released! So cool, right? 

And be sure to grab a drink and a bite before the show at Dacha on Sutter, which is just a couple blocks away!

what’s cookin’

I’m in a state of disbelief that it’s already April 1st (joke’s on me!), and Passover (Happy Pesach!), and it’s almost Easter Sunday (Buona Pasqua!). While the sky is currently giving us spring showers, we’re going to have sun and flowers this weekend—it’s shaping up to be another gorgeous weekend. 

In today’s column, I feature some Easter brunch options and traditional holiday treats, and I know some of you will be sporting your best bonnets and millinery in Dolores Park for Hunky Jesus (and Foxy Mary) on Sunday, one of SF’s most “only in SF” festivities.

This past weekend, I made sure I got all my work and chores done on Saturday so I could dance and play for a Sunday Funday—I haven’t had a full day off in a long time. Sis and I started the day with a yin/restorative yoga class with Sarah Koh and live guitar at Alchemy Springs, and then it was time for a wardrobe change and we headed over to The Midway for an epic EFUNK day of dancing on the patio with our crew to Sunshine Jones, Soul Clap (who did a heartfelt tribute to DJ Dan), DJ Minx, Ash Lauryn, and David Harness was a fabulous surprise addition when someone on the original lineup dropped out—I hit over 20,000 steps! It was such a fun, eclectic crowd, spanning alllll the things.

Speaking of Mr. David Harness (Mighty Real), did you know he’s Taking You To Church for an open-to-close set (3pm–8pm) at Audio this Sunday? How’s that for a tea dance?! Go twirl in your Easter Sunday best.

But first: don’t forget it’s the First Thursday art walk this Thursday April 2nd—check out the participating Tenderloin/TenderNob galleries here (the list will go live on Thursday, but you can already look at some reposts in their feed of what’s happening in the neighborhood that night). Hope to see you!

Also on Thursday: 7 Adams is releasing tickets to one of the upcoming dinners for their Meet Us in San Francisco series, with chefs David and Serena Fisher welcoming guest chefs from Michelin-starred kitchens across the country. Up next on Sunday May 3rd and Monday May 4th is chef Max Boonthanakit of Los Angeles modern French bistro, Camphor (and he’s behind the Boon line of chile sauces). The evening will feature dueling canapés, followed by a five-course collaborative menu. Tickets are $175/pp. and 10 percent of all proceeds will be donated to City Hope SF, a local nonprofit focused on food security and community support. Tickets will be released on Resy this Thursday April 2nd at 10am PDT.

More cheffy news: on Tuesday, all the James Beard Foundation® 2026 Restaurant and Chef Award nominees were announced, as well as this year’s Achievement Award honorees (Impact, Humanitarian of the Year, and Lifetime Achievement), in advance of the James Beard Awards ceremony at the Lyric Opera of Chicago on Monday June 15th. You can view all the nominees on the James Beard Foundation website. 

Locally, I’m happy to see Srijith Gopinathan and partner Ayesha Thapar (Ettan, Copra, Eylan, and Little Blue Door) are finalists for Outstanding Restaurateur, while Harrison Cheney (Sons & Daughters) and Sarah Cooper and Alan Hsu (Sun Moon Studio) in Oakland are in the running for Best Chef: California, and Michael Tusk (Quince) is back up for Outstanding Chef (he was previously nominated in 2016, and he won Best Chef: Pacific in 2011). Our local bar scene also had a strong showing: Kevin Diedrich of Pacific Cocktail Haven for Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service, and Smuggler’s Cove for the Outstanding Bar category. Congrats to all the nominees! 🥂

Mil gracias to Miss Juanita MORE! for highlighting my piece about our recent dinner at Izzy’s Steakhouse and giving tablehopper a lovely shoutout in her latest newsletter (you subscribe, right?). We have so much fun dining together. Here’s to MORE!

Last week, I was busy checking out new places, including Dining Yamamoto (which you can read about in today’s column), and I also had a two-cocktail lunch at The Big Four, cheers to that! It was such a treat to tuck back into a chicken pot pie while seated in that history-filled dining room, and I so enjoyed my tour of the upcoming Arabella’s lounge and the renovated Huntington Hotel. It feels truly uplifting to have one of our city’s iconic hotels back open and looking so good (the rooms are handsome), and you can’t beat the views on all sides of the property, perched high on Nob Hill. I’ll write much more after my dinner next week!

Hoppy Easter,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

A Northern Thai Restaurant Opens in the Castro, Pàng Coming to Inner Sunset, Plus Other News Updates

Wishing You a Hoppy Easter This Sunday

Buona Pasqua! Easter is this Sunday April 5th, which means I’ll be with my family, having our Dad’s traditional capretto with peas and pancetta, and I need to pick up a pastiera napoletana (a dreamy Southern Italian ricotta torta that is just barely sweet, made with cooked wheat berries and orange) to bring home for dessert.

You can preorder a pastiera napoletana from Emporio Rulli in Larkspur (made with fresh ricotta from Sonoma’s Bellwether Farms, the best; $42). Baker Gary Rulli is making another traditional Italian Easter treat: la colomba pasquale, the Easter dove. His dove has similarities to his superlative panettone (and 72-hour process), but it’s made with candied orange peels and orange oil, and topped with almond paste and sugar crumbles (sm. $52; lg. $64). It will help stave off any holiday panettone withdrawals, which is now only eight months away.

Rulli makes delightful cakes and tarts (I ordered my birthday cake from him a few years ago), so take a look at this list of specialty Easter cream cakes (you can see pictures of a bunch of them here), plus there’s an apricot-almond torte, hot cross buns, and I just realized he makes a sacripantina cake! Gary!

You can get a pastiera napoletana from Donato Enoteca in Redwood City—preorder here to ship it (do it now!) or schedule for pick up ($42). They will be offering an Easter menu (3 courses for $58, 4 courses for $76) that is available all day. 1041 Middlefield Rd., Redwood City.

In the East Bay: at Donato & Co., chef Gianluca Guglielmi is offering a four-course Easter menu for $69 (which includes a traditional torta pasqualina!), four courses, and it includes a slice of his homemade pastiera. 2635 Ashby Ave., Berkeley.

Now, where to go for Easter brunch? 

If you’re a supporting subscriber, then you already know about the fab-looking Easter service at Izzy’s Steakhouse that I wrote about last week. 

54 Mint is hosting a family-style Easter menu all day (2pm–7:45pm), featuring dishes like pizza pasquale (savory bread with cheese and crispy guanciale), eggplant fritters, braised lamb with roasted potatoes, and frittelle di ricotta for the finale. Vegetarian options available. $75. Reservations. 16 Mint Plaza.

Old Skool Cafe will be hosting their annual Easter brunch, serving up soul food classics like Jordan’s fried chicken, plus prime rib, fresh greens, and a full carving station. Enjoy live jazz, and there will be endless mimosas for the adults ($25). Reservations are open (but very limited!) at $65 per person. 1429 Mendell St.

If you’re looking for a classic SF experience, the Palace Hotel is hosting an Easter brunch buffet (two seatings) and afternoon signature tea in the Garden Court with live jazz, a special appearance by the Easter Bunny, and a 5x7 keepsake printed photograph. (They’re hosting Mother’s Day as well, so now would be a good time to book!) Scroll down to reserve here, a few spots remain.

the sugar mama

San Francisco Restaurant Week Returns April 10th—Enter to Win One of Two Gift Certificates to Dine in Style!

Attention all food lovers! Get ready for San Francisco’s most exciting culinary event of the spring: San Francisco Restaurant Week (running Friday April 10th through Sunday April 19th, 2026)! Celebrate the flavors of the City and enter to win a gift certificate at participating San Francisco Restaurant Week restaurants: we’re giving away a $150 gift certificate to Delfina, and another $100 gift certificate to Brenda’s French Soul Food! 

Delectable weekend brunch? Indulgent five-star dinner? SF Restaurant Week brings you lunch and dinner options from over 200 restaurants, including Copra, Che Fico Pizzeria, China Live, EPIC Steak, Penny Roma, Rose’s Cafe, Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, and more!

Restaurants will offer special prix-fixe menus at one or more of the following price points:
- brunch or lunch (2+ items or courses): $10, $15, $25, $35, $45
- dinner (3+ items or courses): $30, $45, $60, $75, $90

Visit sfrestaurantweek.com to see all participating restaurants and make reservations.

To enter to win a $150 gift certificate to Delfina OR $100 to Brenda’s French Soul Food, visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram! Good luck!

fresh meat

A Skilled Japanese Chef Opens His First SF Restaurant, Offering High-Quality Sushi Bento Boxes for Lunch, and Omakase for Dinner 

A few weeks ago, I received word from chef Yukinori Yamamoto (who has been the executive sushi chef for The MINA Group for over a decade) that he was launching his first SF restaurant: Dining Yamamoto. The space was formerly Joint Venture Kitchen in SoMa, and he has added his personal touch to the space that was most recently home to Fare Play. It’s a family affair: his wife, Mikako, and two kids (a son and daughter) are also helping with the business; everyone is so friendly and kind.

Chef Yama-san began his culinary career when he was 18, training in traditional kaiseki and kappo cuisine (which is less formal than kaiseki). He worked at Kagaman in Osaka, was a partner-chef at Sushi Kappo Sushimoto in Japan, and managed five restaurants in Mie Prefecture. When he came to the U.S. in 2015, he started working with The MINA Group, and most recently, he was the sushi master at Mina’s Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon.

And now, at 55 years young, he’s thrilled to be launching his own concept here in San Francisco: Dining Yamamoto. According to the press release: “The goal is to create a relaxed but refined sushi experience highlighting the best seasonal seafood with a chef-driven approach.” His sourcing is excellent, and will include seasonal California ingredients, too. 

This past week was the soft opening, and I swung by on Friday during lunchtime to pick up two special donburi boxes he was offering for the occasion: one was the hearty and flavor-forward chutoro steak donburi ($29), with six thick slices of flash-seared, medium fatty bluefin tuna (with a hit of black pepper), topped with black truffle-soy and crispy garlic chips over beautifully prepared koshihikari rice, with ribbons of nori and sweet egg omelet. Chef made a tare (sake, soy, mirin, honey) that you could drop on to taste.

There was also the elegant bara-chirashi donburi ($28), a jewel box filled with an abundant scattering of marinated bluefin tuna (chutoro), Hokkaido sea urchin, ikura (salmon roe), ocean trout, unagi (eel), kombujime white fish (cured for two days), sweet egg omelet, and English pea pods, with an umami-loaded tamari soy sauce from Japan. Taste the rainbow!

The box was heaped with such petite pieces of seafood—it was one of the more delicate chirashi presentations I’ve had (bara means “chopped”). I nibbled on each individual piece, but also enjoyed tasting the impromptu combinations of seafood and rice together, like the ocean trout with the ikura. It was all top-notch, but the Hokkaido uni was extraordinary—it had a light bouncy texture to it, and such clean, fresh flavor. Each set had ground wasabi made from frozen wasabi stems from Japan.

Starting this week (Wednesday April 1st through Friday April 3rd, 11am–2pm), the daytime menu options are expanding, with five kinds of donburi, from spicy tuna and salmon ($27), to kaisen sushi with two pieces each of hon maguro (bluefin tuna), salmon, hamachi (yellowtail), madai (Japanese sea bream), hotate (scallop), amaebi (sweet shrimp), ikura (salmon roe), and uni (sea urchin) for $45.

There are also chef’s choice nigiri selections (10 pc. for $39 or $57 for premium), sushi rolls (futomaki and hosomaki), and sushi roll and nigiri combinations, as well as some vegetable options. Choose from a few appetizers, like miso soup, a Japanese-style salad, and a carpaccio made of sliced hon maguro (bluefin tuna), salmon, hamachi (yellowtail), kani (Japanese red crab), and Japanese-style handmade truffle dressing ($23). 

There are six tables where you can sit and enjoy your lunch, but dishes are also formatted for easy takeout (the donburi boxes can hold at room temp for up to two hours). You may want to eat half, and then bring the rest home (just be sure to eat it on the same day). You can refrigerate your order, but let it come to room temp for 30 minutes before eating it.

No online ordering for now—you have to swing by in person (hours will be Tue–Sat 11am–2:30pm). They will start offering delivery and accepting reservations for online orders in the near future.

While Dining Yamamoto is just getting started with a daytime menu...

The room has a moody and intimate vibe, with blue walls and matching suede pillows on the bench seats at the six tables (which can seat four, or more if you want to get cozy), and there will be four seats at the sushi bar. There isn’t a beer-and-wine license (for now), so plan accordingly.

Private dining is available (you can look at the two different buyout menus here, and the space will be perfect for private events since you get the entire room to yourself). Catering is also offered, as well as having a private chef come to your home or office. Congrats to chef Yama-san and his family on this new venture—he’s very excited, and I’m happy to see him launch his own concept and location. 167 11th St.

the lush

Honor the 120th Anniversary of the 1906 Earthquake and Fire at These Two Events

The Clift Royal Sonesta Hotel continues its new speaker series—Making History Fun Again—on Thursday April 16th in the hotel’s legendary Redwood Room. This installment will feature historian John Martini on the history of San Francisco’s 1906 Earthquake and Fire. Through photographs, stories, and historical insights, Martini will explore how the earthquake and fires unfolded, how residents responded in the chaotic days afterward, and how the city ultimately rebuilt itself from the ashes. 6pm–7pm. RSVP for free here. Come early or stay after for cocktails and more conversation. 495 Geary St.

Save the date for these upcoming speakers: Thursday June 18th brings the dynamic Shawn Sprockett of Unspeakable Vice; and Thursday July 16th features journalist Ben Fong-Torres, History of Rock & Roll.

In honor of the 120th anniversary of the 1906 Earthquake and Fire, writer Camper English of Alcademics is leading a special cocktail and bar history walking tour on the actual day (Saturday April 18th), focusing on the bars, bartenders, cocktails, and saloons of the city. He partnered with Argonaut California Brandy to provide cocktails and light snacks at three bar stops along the way, but be sure to have a big breakfast or light lunch before showing up. (Interested in more history, less cocktails? See Camper’s other bar and cocktail history walking tours.)

The tour begins at The Old Ship Saloon, the site of the city’s oldest continually operating bar, where you’ll learn about the early days of the Gold Rush. Read more on the event ticketing page. 1:30pm–4:30pm. $100. 21+.

After writing up these two events and looking at a bunch of earthquake memorabilia, I can’t believe we had that temblor late last night, eeeeeee!

the sponsor

Public Works’ Membership Program Is Turning One and Celebrating with a Special tablehopper Offer

Located in the heart of the Mission (since 2012!), Public Works is a community-minded club and event space with a Funktion-One sound system that welcomes international DJs, underground artists, rising talent, and San Francisco’s many art and music communities.

Last year, we launched the PW Union, the city’s first nightlife-focused loyalty program where members get free tickets (including Detroit Love w/ Carl Craig on Friday April 10th!), drinks, coat check, priority entry, and much more. To celebrate the PW Union turning one, we’re offering tablehopper readers an exclusive $5–$20 first-month discount for signing up. 

Read about the different tiers, prices, and T&C here, and then use these links (not the ones on our website) to get your discount: Sound Crew (save $5), Floor Supervisor (save $10), Master Builder (save $10), Night Boss (save $20). Offer is valid through April 12th, and everyone who joins through these links will be entered to win their second month free.

Thanks for supporting Public Works, and we’ll see you on the dance floor! 🪩

the archivist

Treat yourself to a subscription to tablehopper, which keeps me hoppin’. 🐇 Thanks Easter bunny, bwok bwok!

what’s cookin’

Whooooooo, I hope you got to bask in that stellar weather last week! I managed to punch the clock early on Friday and zipped off to Baker Beach for a couple hours before heading back home to get ready for The Bay Lights sunset cruise on the Dragon Lady (part of Jerry’s Fairies). I love that I have lived here for 31 years and the City still takes my breath away like it’s my first time seeing it. The night was so still and balmy, and the skyline and sunset behind the Golden Gate Bridge and sliver of a moon were all as captivating as the reflection of The Bay Lights twinkling on the water (which were like the never-ending flow of bubbles in my glass). Yeah, I need to post my videos on @tablehopper! I also had a blast meeting so many fun folks on the yacht—we were all looking at each other and saying, “Can you believe this?” Pinch pinch! Hashtag blessed!

It’s that time of year when I make sure to check my calendar before doing anything in SoMa because it’s the SF Giants Opening Week. This Wednesday March 25th is Major League Baseball’s opening night, with the Giants home against the New York Yankees (Can you feel the heated rivalry? LOL), and then Friday afternoon is opening day (first pitch is 1:35pm; the weather is going to be juuuust right—and now I’m thinking about trying to go!), and they wrap up the opening series on Saturday March 28th with a 4:15pm game. Plan accordingly, and let’s go Giants!

If you’re looking for something extra-tasty to eat nearby, Merkado will be serving their lechón (slow-roasted suckling pig) all three days in a chef taco or plate (and their Margaritas go with everything, including their back patio). ALSO: Eater SF just shared this roundup of what’s new at Oracle Park. Play ball!

Last week, I went to The Midway to see Peaches, and her full-force show was the badass shot in the arm we needed during the current hideous state of the world—she was avant-garde 26 years ago, and she’s shooting the barrel of another wave at 59. Can’t stop, won’t stop, unstoppable. She doesn’t give a fuck, yet gives all the fucks. What a great SF crowd, too. Peaches rocks! Thank you! And this Sunday is an EFUNK day party with Soul Clap and Sunshine Jones, see you there? 

A couple weeks ago, when I went to pick up my deeeeelicious pistachio Basque cheesecake from Lady Madrid (which I wrote about last week), I made it a double-play and swung by the newly open Falafelland just a block down Golden Gate Avenue for lunch. A couple months ago, I was admiring pictures of their falafel on Yelp, and after seeing Mayor Lurie give the place some shine as the first recipient of the Tenderloin Storefront Opportunity Grant Program, I wanted to check it out. The owner is an absolute gem—I hope you enjoy reading about his fantastic falafel in today’s column. I also have a revisit to Izzy’s (with the most glamorous date), some Passover picks, a special Sunday collaborative supper at Meski, news bites for you, and more. 

Hoppy spring. 🐣
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Gimme MORE! A Revisit to Izzy’s to Try New Executive Chef Cory Armenta’s Menu Updates

Last September, I wrote that the recently redesigned Izzy’s Steakhouse in the Marina now has Cory Armenta in place as the executive chef, and a few Fridays ago, I went in for an early dinner to check out his new menu with the glammiest dinner date, Juanita MORE! Armenta’s refined upgrade of the menu is really in line with the new elevated steakhouse décor and experience, so if you happened to go in the beginning of the relaunch, I’d definitely consider a revisit. 

I’m happy the timing of our dinner coincided with this March’s Women’s History Month, since DuVall Family Hospitality Group managing partner Samantha DuVall Bechtel is featuring the female-owned The Caviar Co. in Izzy’s caviar offerings (deviled eggs, oysters on the half shell, carpaccio, and full caviar service), as well as honoring the three generations of women behind Champagne J. Lassalle (the female somm team was pouring the Cachet d’Or by the glass), and the menu highlights Flannery Beef, now run by founder Bryan Flannery’s daughter, Katie. 

Start with the smoked steak tartare (served under a cloche of smoke that dramatically gets released at the table like a beefy genie), with a luxurious texture and punchy flavor from walnut oil salsa, bagna cauda, and confit egg yolk that gets mixed tableside ($25), and think about ordering a supplement of The Caviar Co. kaluga hybrid (one of my favorites of their lineup). More is MORE.

Things got extra-diabolical when we paired the decadent tartare with the roasted bone marrow ($19), dialed up with shallot jam, roasted garlic confit, and horseradish-lemon-caper gremolata—it’s one of the most savory bone marrow presentations I have ever tasted, and goes with a number of dishes on the menu.

We tried some first-of-the-season asparagus from Mexico (chef Armenta was eagerly awaiting the local harvest from Zuckerman’s Farm)—the chilled spears were served elegantly in a crème fraîche béarnaise with quail egg, shaved black truffle, and Meyer lemon from Samantha Bechtel’s own trees—Armenta said he tweaked an earlier Izzy’s recipe for this special béarnaise. So springy.

We split the 8 oz. Flannery Beef hanger steak ($46), grilled to a perfect medium rare, with thick-cut slices doused in Izzy’s signature marinade (an evolution of their classic au jus). The steaks and chops are served à la carte, with $9 sides that you add, like classic creamed spinach, and well-seasoned, house-cut steak fries.

A couple tips:

3345 Steiner St.

News Bites: Some New Openings and Pop-Ups

This Sunday Evening at Meski: What’s the 411?

Tired of being on your phone and taking pictures of your food? (Yeah, I hear you.) In that case, I have the perfect thing for you this Sunday March 29th at Meski in the TenderNob. Yay Area native and curator Ask JG? is hosting a night of Black culinary artistry, culture visibility, and community connection, bringing together chef Nelson German (Meski/alaMar Dominican Kitchen/Sobre Mesa) and Shawn Phillips of Tartufino for a collaborative menu. Instead of capturing everything on your phone, you’ll be connecting with fellow diners in person over a six-course tasting menu held in the intimate downstairs room at Meski, with the option of paired Caribbean cocktails.

Both chefs are preparing three courses each. Chef Nelson German’s dishes pay homage to his NYC/Washington Heights roots, and include an amuse bouche: Boogie in Coney Island: blue crab, salchichon ’nduja, avocado, malossol caviar, sesame cone; Afterwork Bodega Run: shoyu egg, aji amarillo, aged queso soubise, turkey sausage picadillo, kaiser roll crumble; and From The Heights to Canal: char siu duck, pigeon peas, coconut, spring peas, recaito, dirty rice chip. 

A sneak peek of Shawn Phillips’s dishes includes a snack of chicken and waffles (stroopwafel, chicken liver purée, onion jam, “hot honey”) and blackened fish, banana, and turnips. The dinner is $125 without wine or cocktail pairing, $165 with pairing. 5pm–9pm. Reserve here; please specify the size of your party, and remember to keep your phone stashed in your pocket or purse. Dress sharp, like you’re going to grandma’s on Sunday.

There’s also the option to hang out upstairs (no reservation needed) and order à la carte from a separate menu featuring four dishes from each chef ($30 and under), like Lemon Pepper Freestyle: agnolotti, confit chicken, lemon pepper beurre blanc, chicken skin; and Protect Ya Neck: braised lamb neck, succotash, pickled okra, lamb-porcini jus. And, you can order The BIG 3 (sambusas, tomahawk steak, or rasta pasta) from Meski’s regular menu. 1000 Larkin St. at Post.

Ways to Celebrate Passover, from Special Dinners to Matzoh Ball Soup and Macaroons 

Whoa, I can’t believe Passover is already rolling in next Wednesday April 1st (through April 9th), which means you need to place your order now for the Passover dinner to-go from Iggy’s Place (which includes their delicious matzoh ball soup, latkes, slow-cooked brisket, arugula beet salad, and roasted carrots over hummus). Order by March 29th for pick-up April 1st–3rd. You can DM them on Instagram or call to reserve. 3519 Balboa St. at 36th Ave., 415-425-7795.

Of course, Delfina will celebrate with a daily-changing menu (April 1st–4th) that will feature Passover dishes inspired by la cucina Ebraica, along with other modern takes on food from the Jewish diaspora. Some sample dishes include their edible seder plate (lamb osso bucco, FCF egg salad crostini, charoset, Upland cress and herbs); smoked trout, beets, Satsumas, and horseradish crème fraîche; the Stoll family matzo ball soup; piccolo bollito misto (tongue, brisket, capon with salsa verde, and mostarda); and wild nettle farfalle with kasha and mushrooms. Everything is à la carte, so you can choose your own Passover adventure. Please note: this is not a seder, and nothing is necessarily kosher for Passover.

And: Pizzeria Delfina is offering their much-adored Stoll Family Matzo Ball Soup—each matzo ball features a walnut in the center (it’s part of their tradition), so if you have a nut allergy, nut-free matzo balls are available upon request. The soup is sold frozen by the quart ($22) and is available for pickup at Delfina and all Pizzeria Delfina locations and delivery starting March 27th (preorders are open now), while supplies last. 

Perbacco celebrates Passover annually with a special four-course menu that will be available alongside their complete dinner menu from Wednesday April 1st–Saturday April 4th. Dishes include first-of-the-season asparagus from Zuckerman Farms, and this year will feature smoked and slow-roasted brisket. The Passover menu is $77 per person (beverages not included). There will be a selection of cocktails and Kosher wines for you to choose from. Reservations can be made by clicking here or calling 415-955-0663. 230 California St.

fresh meat

Falafelland Writes a New Chapter With Its Reopening in the Tenderloin, Where Kindness Is Wrapped Up in Every Dish

This one is for my fellow falafel fans. There have been some good falafel spots in the City over the years, sometimes they’re even great, but nothing has come close to the uniquely made falafel wrap I recently tried from Falafelland in the Tenderloin, because the primary ingredient in effusive Yemeni owner Billy Alabsi’s dishes is love.

He’s one of those hospitality naturals who makes you feel like family—he wants to offer you tastes, feed you well, host you warmly, and send you out the door with even more food. He will insist that you pour yourself a complimentary cup of his tart and fruity cascara shai (tea), made from the dried fruit and husks of coffee cherries, which he brews with cardamom and notes it has many health benefits. (He even gave me a container of his dry blend so I could brew some at home.)

As soon as I ordered my falafel wrap, Billy was showing me the special mix he developed, which he adds avocado and blueberries to (he said it was a happy accident that became his trademark). After the falafels took a spin in his enclosed fryer, he split the golden orb in half, topped it with his housemade hummus, a squirt of tahini, a sprinkle of sumac, and smiled broadly when I said I love hot sauce, and proudly presented me a perfect bite to try while he finished assembling my falafel wrap (I said it would make the best party hors d’oeuvre). The falafel was savory and fluffy and so tender—he shared that avocado prevents the falafel from disintegrating, and the raw blueberries keep it from drying out. As someone who eats blueberries almost daily, I’m here for it.

Watching him make the wrap, he told me he makes the creamy hummus every morning (he had me taste and compare two batches), and the rich tahini is housemade as well. I saw him scoop his flavorful Yemeni tomato and cucumber salad into a bowl, with cabbage, pickles, carrot, and he pointed out the pickled turnip, and after asking if I like olives, he cut green olives into the bowl before mixing it together. Once it’s all loaded onto the lavash, everything gets a sprinkling of sumac, and a hearty dousing of tahini, and as much hot sauce as you’d like. Welcome to flavor country.

When Billy started to scoop everything onto the lavash, I couldn’t believe the size of the wrap—it was absolutely humongous, easily two meals, for just $13.99. It required two pieces of foil to wrap it up, and when I came home, I weighed and measured the falafel baby: 1.9 lbs. and 9.5 inches. 

Over the years, I have loved the grilled lavash wraps at Truly Mediterranean (and the fried eggplant and potatoes you can add), but in this case, the soft lavash is the move. There’s so much flavor and tangy notes and texture from Billy’s special salad mix (the acidic zip in the tomato is a nice touch). I can’t wait to go back and have another wrap—it’s so fresh and lovingly made.

I also tried the lamb wrap ($17.99)—Billy warms up pre-cooked pieces of seasoned lamb in the microwave, and then breaks them up as he positions everything on the lavash. He asked if I wanted to add pomegranate molasses, and the correct answer is yes. The contrast of the tangy pickles against the rich lamb is so satisfying. Weirdly, I think I enjoyed my leftovers of this wrap even more after it was refrigerated and had a few hours to coalesce. (I also love cold leftover burritos from my years of going to Burning Man, so it’s kind of a thing for me.)

Also on the menu: a falafel and salad plate, salads, rice plates (like chicken and rice, vegetables and rice, lamb and rice, or falafel and rice), all ranging from $13.99–$19.99—the rice looked wonderful, so I’m coming back to try the chicken and rice next. Traditional Yemeni dishes include lamb saltah (a spiced meat broth topped with hilbeh fenugreek foam, which I am so curious about), and his hearty fasolia bean stew and comforting lentil soup are also available pre-packed in a fridge so you can warm them up at home.

For dessert, Billy created his own lightly sweet, Dubai chocolate–inspired spin on shaariya, a fried vermicelli dish that he adds honey, cardamom, and chocolate to, with ground pistachio on top, and he chills it like a pudding. (He offered me a taste, and then I bought a whole portion to bring home—I joked he’s a good food dealer, with the first hit for free.) Other desserts I want to try include his rawany (spiced and syrup-soaked semolina cake) and Yemeni sabaya (a layered cake of pastry with ghee and cardamom).

There’s a cozy seating area in the front that feels very residential, with Arabic majlis sofas (on wooden stands) and tablecloths with bright geometric patterns, where you’ll find happy customers who work in the neighborhood having their lunch. (I can imagine people hanging out and drinking his cascara shai on the sofas all day.) Since he’s a one-man show—and an absolute delight to chat with—I wouldn’t be in a rush for your order, even if you’re doing takeout (besides, fried-to-order falafel takes a moment).

Billy’s hospitality, generosity, and warmth are quite palpable—he gives with so much heart. I asked him why he enjoys feeding people so much, and he said he was the oldest of 10 siblings, and his mother was always taking care of other kids and feeding them. You can see how his upbringing informed how he treats people. He shared that he has lived in the Tenderloin for almost 38 years, and cares about making good, fresh food that is nourishing and affordable for the neighborhood.

He told me he first opened Falafelland with his wife on 6th Street (in 2018), and his business plans were tragically cut short by the pandemic shutdown. But now, he was able to restart and rehome his business into this Tenderloin location thanks to a grant he applied for from the Tenderloin Storefront Opportunity Grant Program—he’s the first recipient of the grant, and signed a three-year lease (read more in this SF Examiner story). 

While writing this feature, I found this touching piece in Mission Local about Billy’s work history and journey to opening the business, which has been rough to say the least. It makes his abundant generosity even more poignant when you learn how much he has struggled in recent years to support his family. When I was leaving his shop, he casually mentioned he has almost finished his PhD in general psychology and made sure I saw his business card about breath therapy. I said to him that whatever it is he’s doing, his exuberant and positive attitude stands testament to that it works.

Let’s help make this second go of his business the success story this kind-hearted and truly entrepreneurial man deserves. Go on a Tenderloin adventure and visit in person. Buy a falafel wrap for a friend (be a food dealer!). Order catering. And get ready to become a regular. Because, here’s the thing: his falafel wrap is really something—it’s as special as the man who’s making it. Open Mon–Fri 11am–5pm, Fri–Sat 10am–5pm. 265 Golden Gate Ave. at Hyde.

the lush

Don’t Miss Out on Early Bird Tickets to Wine Fare, and a Sad Farewell to Black Hammer Brewing

First, the fun news: mark your calendar for Wine Fare from The Vinguard on Saturday May 30th–Sunday May 31st at Catharine Clark Gallery (248 Utah St.)—as of now, 51 winemakers and importers will be featuring wines made by women in the natural wine movement. It’s a fantastic event! 

Now is your chance for early bird tickets (through March 31st!): $50 per day, $75 for both days, and $125 if you buy a ticket for both days and the Wine Fare Celebration Party at Wine Down on Saturday May 30th. 

Are you in F&B? Early bird food & beverage industry tickets are $45 for Saturday, $35 for Sunday, $65 for both days, and $90 for both days and the Wine Fare Celebration Party at Wine Down.

If you can’t make it but want to support, you can buy a pay-it-forward ticket. There are also benefactor tickets if you want to give The Vinguard an extra tax-deductible donation. See you there!

And now, the sad news: Broke-Ass Stuart caught the news that Black Hammer Brewing Company is sadly closing its doors after 11 years of business (since 2015). You have from now through April 3rd to cheers with their Burner-inspired brews like Sparkle Pony and Playa at their SoMa brewery. Their post mentions: “We’re rolling back our beer pricing to when we opened in August 2015 – all brews are $7…Our Final Safety 3rd DJ/Burning Man Party on Friday March 27th from 7pm - Close…April 3rd End of an Era Party featuring $5 pints all day and night, and 50% off all branded merchandise and glassware” (along with other offers and specials). Pour more than one out. 544 Bryant St.

the starlet

the archivist

what’s cookin’

While the spring equinox isn’t until this Friday March 20th, we definitely get to celebrate early! What a glorious week—I hope you have some outdoor lunches, alfresco spritzes, beach walks, and evening strolls lined up. Also happening this Friday is the welcome relighting of The Bay Lights, and folks are planning all kinds of viewings along the waterfront (remarks will be given on the Embarcadero at 7pm, and the lighting is at 7:30pm). The official benefit and after-party is at SHACK15, but it’s sold out. You can try to book a table at EPIC Steak and Waterbar, which have great views, and since the weather is going to be gawjusssss, try to snag an outdoor table! (Terrene, Perry’s, and Angler also have nice views and outdoor areas.)

Me? I’m going to have a front-row seat on my friend Captain Jerry’s yacht for a bubbles and bumps sunset cruise, with flowing sparkling wine, an open bar, white sturgeon caviar bumps from California Caviar Company, and savory canapés, like brown butter–seared scallops, crab cakes, spicy salmon crispy rice, stuffed mushrooms, and more from chef Gigi Nguyen (The Umami Mami). I held a birthday party a few years ago on Jerry’s other yacht, the Toi Toi Toi, and am really looking forward to stepping aboard his latest acquisition: the Dragon Lady, an 80-foot, 1979 superyacht from Long Beach.

Wanna join me? There are limited tickets available for $175—and the warm and clear weather is going to make for a memorable and stunning evening on the Bay. They’re also asking for folks to dress the part with some glitz and glamour, so bring on the sequins and the shimmer (but don’t forget sensible shoes and a coat)! Boarding begins at 5:30pm, 6:15pm on-time departure from Pier 40, and a 9:30pm return. Cheers, darlink!

Since we’re going to have some pretty gorg weather for a couple weeks, I can’t wait to take advantage of the sunny days and do some daytime outdoor dancing. Be sure to look in today’s sugar mama for a ticket giveaway to an upcoming daytime party at The Midway with Soul Clap and Sunshine Jones (playing live!). 

I’m also going to see the no-holds-barred Peaches this Thursday night (indoors at The Midway) for their No Lube So Rude Tour, with Pixel Grip as the opener. There are some VIP options, including a meet-and-greet and photo with Peaches (I can only imagine how awesome that photo would be). Let me know if you’re going!

Thanks to everyone who entered last week’s Oakland Restaurant Week 2026 giveaway. Don’t forget to savor the flavor of The Town since Oakland Restaurant Week is running now through March 22nd! (This weekend, I’m heading to the new Jack London Square location of Cenaduria Elvira, so excited.) There are 100+ participating restaurants offering a variety of special menus and dishes to choose from—make reservations at oaklandrestaurantweek.org.

If you’re on the north side of the Bay, this week is Sausalito Restaurant Week (through March 22nd), with three-course dinner menus ($50–$75), along with two-course lunch menus ($25–$45); select restaurants will be shaking up a $10 specialty cocktail. Participating restaurants include Angelino, Copita, Cultivar, Le Garage, Poggio, Scoma’s, Sula, Sushi Ran, and The Spinnaker.

There are even more new restaurant openings in today’s newsletter, and I have a look at an incredible new Basque-style cheesecake in town. Last night, I had to run to a San Francisco magazine evening event with chef Melissa King, so you’re getting this a little later than I planned. (I also wasn’t going to spend such a beautiful evening at my desk. Priorities!)

Have a swell, sunny week!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Inner Richmond’s Bettola Has Evolved Into Clementina, a Gluten-Free Trattoria Designed to Be Welcoming to All

Last week, I attended a preview of the new, gluten-free Italian trattoria, Clementina (which I first wrote about last month), now open in the Bettola space from owners Gianluca Legrottaglie and Viviana Devoto in the Inner Richmond. Walking inside, I was so impressed to hear Legrottaglie managed to finish the remodel in just 10 days. The previous enclosed terrace had the glass divider walls taken down, and is now one big dining room that seats 65–75 (fortunately, the nonna-style wallpaper remains).

Bettola’s tavola calda counter is now a bar where you can hang out with a friend over a couple wine spritzes under lights that were converted from professional spotlights that Legrottaglie found at Urban Ore—he’s a fellow avid antique hunter and lover of vintage items, which you’ll notice throughout the cozy space, bringing warmth and homey vibes. There’s also a long wood table that is perfect for communal dining, large groups, or solo fliers.

As I mentioned before, the casual trattoria-style menu at Clementina is 100-percent gluten-free and designed to eliminate any cross-contamination. It’s an evolution of the Alice by Montesacro concept the owners popped-up with at their former Montesacro Marina—their daughter, Alice, has celiac disease, which led the Italian-born couple to create an inclusive dining experience where guests with gluten restrictions can easily dine with those without, so no one feels left out or like they’re making concessions. It was a pleasure to bring my dear friend who has some gluten tolerance issues and see her happy that she could order anything and everything on the menu (it reminded me of the first time I brought my vegetarian ex-boyfriend to Greens).

The menu, led by Ligurian chef Giorgio Brunella (who also has a daughter with celiac disease) has a variety of antipasti, from a refreshing salad of roasted beets ($16) with blackberries, dill, shaved almonds, and citronette, while the other side of the scale includes a decadent gratin of mussels ($18) with the unexpected addition of a creamy Gorgonzola dolce sauce spooned over, and a sprinkling of herbed breadcrumbs—make sure you have their basket of house bread ($8) so you can dunk the gluten-free focaccia (made with deglutinated wheat flour, pea, chicory, and potato starch) in the sauce (“scarpetta!”). There’s also a baguette made in collaboration with Mariposa Bakery that is notably good, with amaranth flour and rice flour.

A personal favorite dish, vitello tonnato ($19), here has thin and rosy slices of slow-roasted, eye-of-round beef draped onto the plate, with dollops of tonnato sauce, capers, and a split caperberry. It would be perfect during this hot week.

Of course, my primary curiosity was about the pasta. We twirled delicate ribbons of tagliatelle al sugo di calamari (with the most tender baby Monterey squid) in a tomato ragù spiked with red wine and Calabrian chile ($26), and the supple gnocchi al sugo di agnello (potato gnocchi with slow-braised lamb ragù) were homey and hearty, under a shower of Parmigiano Reggiano ($27). I need to return for the lasagna al pesto with béchamel, Parmigiano, and basil pesto ($25), and the crispy risotto with saffron and bone marrow ($29) sounds fantastic.

The pinsa dough of Montesacro has evolved here into a gluten-free mix of rice flour, quinoa, potato starch, and pea flour, with no gums nor added sugar—it’s crispy yet tender, and has quite a bit of rustic flavor, so I’d veer toward extra-savory toppings that can really stand up to the crust, like the Clementina (mozzarella, broccoli rabe, pork sausage; $26), or the Alice, which a friend pointed out is a double play on the Italian word for anchovy (tomato, mozzarella, anchovy, oregano; $25). There’s also a Margherita ($25), and the Giulia, a gluten-free version of their Casal Bertone at Montesacro (mozzarella, guanciale, chestnut honey, pecorino; $27).

Many of Clementina’s in-house pantry items will be available for sale so you can bring them home, and there are plans to participate in the Clement Street farmers’ market, selling their housemade gluten-free bread, pasta, and pinsa dough.

For dessert, we ended the meal on a light note with the Buonanotte Amore, Ciao ($13), named after a 1970s song by Luigi Tenco, served on an awkward piece of slate topped with Chantilly cream, blackberries, raspberries, meringue, green apple, and a dusting of coffee powder (nice touch). There’s also a flourless chocolate cake, red wine–poached pear, soft-serve gelato, and an affogato. (I had a good chuckle over the note at the bottom of the menu that explains why they don’t offer a cappuccino after dinner, much respect.)

The well-curated Italian wine list highlights smaller producers, with a number of wines by the glass, including a house red wine (a chilled Sardinian red from Meigamma), and don’t miss the two gluten-free beers by SF’s Otherwise Brewery. 

Reservations on OpenTable. Hours for now: Wed–Sun 5pm–9pm. Happy hour will be 3pm–5pm, with a bar menu alongside specially priced beverage offerings, and lunch is coming soon, too. 343 Clement St. at 5th Ave.

Oakland’s Grand Lake Kitchen Just Soft-Opened Their Third Location in Noe Valley

Back in January, tablehopper was first to share the news about the upcoming third location of Oakland’s Grand Lake Kitchen in the former Mr. Digby’s on 24th Street from SF-born-and-raised and seasoned hospitality owners May Seto Wasem and David Wasem (who met at Balboa Cafe—May was then a GM at Delfina, while Dave went on to Park Tavern). 

Now softly open as of this past weekend, Grand Lake Kitchen Noe Valley is bringing a bistro-style menu of elevated American comfort food, with their Bay Area creative touch. You can come in and nosh on Reuben fries, chilled artichokes, Dungeness crab toast, and fried green tomatoes, or make it a celebratory night with their high-low caviar pie (a tower of finely chopped hard-boiled eggs mixed with crème fraîche, cream cheese, chives, topped with a half ounce of American caviar, with Ritz crackers for $32). 

1199 Church St. at 24th St.

Lady Madrid Is Here to Enchant Us With Basque-Inspired Cheesecakes Made with Local Ingredients

When Charles Chen wrapped up his Basuku cheesecake production since he was moving to Asia, it was a tough farewell to him and his uniquely tangy and textured Basque cheesecakes with such inspired, seasonal flavors. I didn’t think I was going to find another Basque-style cheesecake to love, but then I received a DM from two Madrileños, Pedro Botas and Guillermo Mendez, the duo behind Lady Madrid (previously Baiak).

They both have roots in Northern Spain—Guillermo is originally from Galicia, and Pedro’s family is from the Basque Country—but they lived in Madrid, and have been friends since they were kids. They grew up loving Spanish gastronomy, cooking, and culture, and now they’re bringing a taste of Madrid to San Francisco (they moved here a year ago with their wives, who came to work in the VC world). For the past three months, the guys have been making their version of Basque cheesecakes in the La Cocina Municipal Marketplace commissary kitchen, where customers can pick up pre-ordered cakes a few days a week.

While there’s the iconic Basque burnt cheesecake (tarta de queso) from La Viña in San Sebastián (since 1959), there are other variations that are currently trending in Madrid, like the cheesecakes from Álex Cordobés (you can read more about the evolution of the Basque cheesecake scene in this article). 

With Lady Madrid, Pedro and Guillermo have created an adaptation of the traditional La Viña recipe (which they say is a bit “grandma-style”), with a twist on what has been popular in Madrid over the past four years. They’ve been developing their recipe for a while: their sophisticated cheesecake has a thin cookie crust, and they want to bring something different with their flavor lineup. They’re using quality and organic ingredients, including local cheeses and pasture-raised eggs (from Nicasio Valley), and no gums—and they keep their cakes low in sugar.

They make a classic flavor on a buttery cookie crust, a pistachio cheesecake, a dulce de leche version, and they’re developing a Dandelion chocolate flavor, too. Last Friday afternoon, I went to pick up a pistachio cheesecake, which had a softly tinted hue (no fake green here) and a golden edge (not burnt). I let the chilled cake sit out for 30 minutes before I cut into it, and grinned widely when I saw the exquisitely runny center—the fluffy edge of the cake could barely contain it (I can’t imagine how much trial and error it took to get the texture just right).

There are 7-inch (6–8 portions) and 9-inch (10–12 portions) cakes you preorder, and they’re working on an individual 4-inch version, too. For the moment, you preorder and pickups are on Tuesdays (9am–6pm), Fridays (9am–3:30pm), and Saturdays (8:30am–11am). They’re also going to start selling Lady Madrid at farmers’ markets (they have two that they’re considering), and the eventual plan is to open a shop. Lucky us. The address is 101 Hyde St., but there’s a loading zone where you can pull over for five minutes at 332 Golden Gate Ave. ¡Provecho!

From a Tipsy Pig to a Mexican She-Wolf, Lobalita Brings a California Cantina Style to the Marina 

Two New Openings and New Ownership, Too

Chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social in Bayview has officially taken ownership of Café Mélange, located on the ground floor of San Francisco City Hall. While Ball has been involved with the café for the past year, his new role as owner was just marked at a grand reopening and ribbon cutting this Wednesday March 18th. Joining him will be lead team member Quanisha Johnson, former owner of Yes Pudding, who will lead day-to-day operations.

Updates include refined menu offerings, expanded catering visibility, collaborations with local vendors and artists, and the exploration of new culinary technologies, such as an AI-powered vending machine. Ball shares, “My vision for Café Mélange is to create a place where we can elevate, promote, and show off Bayview culinary talent and San Francisco culinary talent citywide. It’s an opportunity to bring different food artisans into City Hall to expose staff and visitors to some of the greatest food in the country, and also give fellow restauranteurs and food businesses an opportunity to show off their work.” 

Take a look at the initial menu here, which includes breakfast items, soup, salads, sandwiches, Ball’s acclaimed gumbo, desserts from Bayview’s Yvonne’s Southern Sweets, and full coffee service. Open Mon–Fri 7:30am–3pm. City Hall, Ground Floor, 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place.

Del Popolo Pizza Is Closing in May (But the Frozen Pizzas Will Continue)

Over the weekend, I was surprised to see Jon Darsky of Del Popolo announce on Instagram that he’s closing his busy pizzeria after service on Friday May 8th (he opened his first brick-and-mortar location in November 2015, after launching his one-of-a-kind pizza truck made from a shipping container in 2012). At least we still have time to head in for some final pizzas from the wood-fired oven (and with this sunny weather, don’t forget about the back patio).

In his post, he mentions he’s going to be focusing on his line of frozen, handmade, Neapolitan-style, naturally leavened sourdough pizzas, which I guess in a funny way are even more “of the people” than the restaurant is since they can be shipped and stashed in freezers everywhere. As for who’s going to take over the space next, stand by. 855 Bush St. at Taylor.

the sugar mama

Have Fun in the Sun at These Two Day House Parties at The Midway—Enter to Win a Pair of Tickets to EFUNK SF 2026 with Soul Clap!

I’m fired up to see a couple parties coming to the patio at The Midway will coincide with the gorgeous springy weather we’re having. This Saturday March 21st is the seventh annual birthday bash for Mark Farina and Homero Espinosa (Moulton Music), and it’s going to be an all-vinyl day party with deep grooves and soulful cuts from a lineup that includes Dani Siciliano and John Glass. Tickets are moving fast. 2pm. 900 Marin St.

I’m so ready to see SF underground legend Sunshine Jones (Dubtribe Sound System) perform live (pllllllease play Fall in Love, Not in Line!) on Sunday March 29th at EFUNK SF 2026 with Soul Clap—it’s going to be a Sunday funday party on the patio, with indoor music, too. The lineup includes Detroit’s DJ Minx, SF’s Sweater Funk, Detroit-rooted and Atlanta-based Ash Lauryn, and more. It’s gonna be a hella groovy day. 2pm–6pm. 900 Marin St.

the socialite

This Friday, You’ll Be Seeing Lots of Hands in the Air at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana

This Friday March 20th, 13-time World Pizza Champion Tony Gemignani will host a rare one-night-only collaboration at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in North Beach for an evening dedicated to both traditional and contemporary Neapolitan pizza. Flying in from Italy for the event are Diego Vitagliano, whose Naples pizzeria was named No. 1 in the world by 50 Top Pizza in both 2023 and 2024, and Vincenzo Capuano, a World Champion of Contemporary Pizza and third-generation Neapolitan pizzaiolo known for his modern approach to Neapolitan dough and technique.

Guests will have the chance to try a special wood-fired, canotto-style pizza (a longer-proofed dough that yields an extremely puffy and airy crust), made with Latteria Sorrentina smoked provola and hand-sliced soppressata. The specialty pizza will be available Friday night only, beginning at 5:30pm; first-come, first-served (no reservations) until sold out.

Guests can chat with the pizzaioli and there will be giveaways throughout the evening, including Latteria Sorrentina swag and copies of Gemignani’s cookbooks: The Pizza Bible and The Pursuit of Pizza. 1570 Stockton St.

the archivist

what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. How you doin’ with the time change? As if I didn’t stay up late enough already, and now I have to force myself to try to go to bed an hour earlier. Ha! Been feeling pretty wonky, but I’m loving the longer evening light! Maybe people will start dining out later, like 8pm? Let’s try? Cin cin.

I totally talk about my night owl ways, along with spring getaway ideas, new restaurant openings, my coral office chair, my bestie Basil Racuk’s shop, and even more places and people I love in my recent routine piece for FOUND SF, a fellow local newsletter that curates the many things to love about San Francisco. I hope you enjoy reading it!

I know most of us have been eating popcorn 🍿 while scrolling through all the think pieces coming out about the hideous allegations of the physical and mental abuse by chef René Redzepi of Noma of his staff for years (and I know I’m not the only one looking to see which chefs are leaving heart emoji on his half-assed apology). For the past month, I’ve been reading the numerous testimonies from former employees shared in posts by Noma’s former fermentation lab head, Jason Ignacio White, on his Instagram account (now viewable on a storytelling site), wondering when The New York Times was going to report on it. Sure enough, Julia Moskin, who has been reporting on Noma for years, dropped her bombshell piece this past weekend, after interviewing more than 35 former Noma employees. It seems it’s finally the thing that has firmly knocked away Redzepi’s self-made pedestal, although past employees (and formerly unpaid stages) have been raising the hue and cry that something was really rotten in the state of Denmark for years. 

Noma is launching their money-grabbing (reservations were $1,500 per person), four-month residency in Los Angeles today, and with sponsors pulling out (AmEx, Blackbird), and diners canceling reservations, it will be interesting (to say the least) to watch how this continues to unfold/implode. Also: Jason Ignacio White organized a worker solidarity protest today with One Fair Wage outside the pop-up, which will be held tomorrow as well—you can read the demand letter they delivered from Noma employees here.

I would read this piece from Jenn Harris of the L.A. Times and this post from Eater LA; Chris Crowley wrote about Noma’s PR crisis and the reactions in Denmark in yesterday’s Caper newsletter; activist Ashtin Berry calls out Redzepi for being a thug and running Noma like a gang/cult; and The Hollywood Reporter also posited Redzepi was operating like a cult leader. More popcorn, please. (And no more unchecked abuse of power and toxic male ego and violent behavior and appalling exploitation of workers, okay?)

If I had a talk show, I’d be calling Acquerello chef-owner Suzette Gresham for her thoughts on how to run a widely respected, two-Michelin-star, fine-dining establishment with a sense of humanity, pride, and collaboration—while providing her team an exceptional culinary education and experience—for more than three decades.

To end this intro on a high note, it was another fantastic Festa della Donna at A16 on Sunday evening, with a full house of friends in the food and wine industry. Grazie, Shelley Lindgren, and her incredible team for curating such an uplifting night and menu highlighting female-produced wines, products, and the people behind them! No one creates community like she does. Viva la fempire!

Tonight, I’m off to a preview of the new, gluten-free Italian restaurant, Clementina (which I first wrote about last month), opening Thursday March 12th, and I’m happy to see Mazra San Bruno has opened their spiffy, massively updated original location (hours are Tue–Sun 11am–9pm). Opening next week is The Big Four at the Huntington Hotel, and I have a preview for you in today’s column, as well as a vintage The Big 4 menu from 1978 in the archivist. Also: this mahjong lesson at China Live on Sunday (with bites and a cocktail) just came across my desk and sounds like fun.

Cheers!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Old-School San Francisco Feels More Like Itself With the Return of The Big Four (and Its Chicken Pot Pie)

With the recent ribbon-cutting heralding the reopening of the renovated The Huntington Hotel (thanks to Flynn Properties and Highgate), we now turn our attention to the greatly missed The Big Four restaurant, which is reopening on Tuesday March 17th, after being closed for six years. And it’s all just in time for its 50th anniversary this year (former The Huntington Hotel owners Newton Cope Sr. and his wife Dolly Fritz opened The Big 4 Restaurant in October 1976), although it feels more like it should be its 150th.

The Big Four has been the unofficial drawing room, dining room, and clubhouse for Nob Hill neighbors for decades, as well as anyone who has visited or lived in San Francisco long enough to know it had some of the best old-school SF atmosphere...

The Big Four opens to the public on Tuesday March 17th. Reservations. 1075 California St.

Fat Cat Wine Club Found a Fur-Ever Home in the Mission to Open a Wine Bar (and This Kitten Has Claws...of Mantis!)

A really fun pocket of the Mission is about to add a queer woman–owned wine bar to the mix from Jessica Bell of Fat Cat SF, with Vietnamese bar bites from one of the City’s most-popular and next-level pop-ups (Claws of Mantis). Bell left the tech world during the pandemic to work at a wine bar, which led to her launching the Fat Cat Wine Club three years ago (with cat-themed names, like The Cat Nip, and super-fun pick-up parties). Here’s Lola, the Fat Cat brand ambassador.

Perhaps you saw my blurb last year when Bell was popping up in the temporarily closed Fisch & Flore space in the Castro, serving glasses of wine, bottled beer, and light bites, as well serving as a location for her wine club pickup parties. She was sorry when she had to wrap up her residency there, and has been looking for a location for years. 

Thanks to Steven Gerry of Compass, she found her dream wine bar location: the former Outer Orbit in “La Lengua,” just across the street from the Royal Cuckoo, and next door to Taqueria Cancún. Also nearby: El Rio, Mothership, Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack, Blue Plate, the new Chicano Nuevo, Pizzahacker, Cellarmaker, and the Knockout. But with all these great spots, she notes there isn’t really a wine bar in the ’hood. Voilà!

Bell says the space was left in tiptop shape, so all she really had to do was a deep clean and paint (there’s now a lively pink exterior you can’t miss). There will be 49 seats at the U-shaped bar, five big booths, and in the light-filled front area called the Catio, with about eight seats and large windows that open to the street, which is where they will seat live musicians. There will also be the return of drag king bingo, along with other events, and old movies will play on the wall from a projector (movie nights are being discussed).

Bell will be featuring wines every month from her five wine club selects, with a focus on underrepresented producers, varietals, and regions. She will include special pours of interesting, unique, and often highly limited bottlings (so when things run out, that’s it)! There will also be cheap and cheerful house wines, so guests will always find some approachable and affordable options. Bell hopes to steer her clientele to discover wines they really like or even love, and if they’re adventurous and want to explore or learn more, that will be all be available to them as well. She’s excited to host some special winemaker dinners with an educational component (but nothing stuffy)!

Vermouth spritzes, beers, and ciders will be in the house, as well as nonalcoholic options, served in a way that feels inclusive. There will be a small retail section, and guests can purchase bottles to drink in-house. Stand by for a variety of themes and regions, like all queer wines in June, obscure Eastern European wines (hello, Transylvania!), and wines from Mexico. Joining her is the leadership team she had in place at Fisch & Flore, including bar manager Anna Biegalski.

Since she was previously a cheesemonger at Cheese Plus, Bell will be putting together a cheese program, with cheeses to enjoy in-house or to go, along with some light bar snacks. She’s also thinking about future brunch service, coffee, sandwiches, and more.

Joining Bell will be chef Kevin Tang of Claws of Mantis, another project that got its start in the pandemic (he was a sous at Nari, and started his Vietnamese pop-up with three cook friends—he has also been an executive sous chef at Mister Jiu’s). Claws of Mantis has been popping up at locations all over the city, including Fisch & Flore (when Fat Cat SF was there), and most recently at Onsen, and now it will have a space to call home.

Tang is about to leave for a month of travel in Vietnam for a culinary learning journey with Red Boat fish sauce, and will be doing a one-week residency in Hanoi—he will assuredly return with lots of inspiration and dishes. Bell says to expect casual small plates of his Vietnamese-Californian dishes that are herbal, fresh, and aromatic—perfect for wine pairing. Recent dishes from Claws pop-ups include charred cabbage, crispy pork jowl, smoked oyster cream, lemongrass salsa macha, rau ram; and hiramasa crudo, ginger nuoc cham, shinko pear, purple perilla, rau ram, mint. The launch date and specifics of his food program in Fat Cat’s kitchen is TBD until he returns (after April 13th). It’s gonna be so delicious.

If kitchen inspections go well, Bell’s hoping to open the wine bar component in early April. Stand by for meow! Initial hours will be Thu 4pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 4pm–12am, Sun–Mon 3pm–9pm. 3215 Mission St. at Fair.

Sequels Include a New Project from Black Jet, Another Bi-Rite Market, Ritual Coffee Coming to FiDi, and More

According to a post from Black Jet Bakery in Bernal, they’re expanding to the Outer Sunset, opening Black Jet Luncheonette in the former DamnFine Coffee space (which was once Trouble Coffee back in the day, where Black Jet would deliver pastries). Coming this late spring/early summer, owner Gillian Shaw Lundgren and baker Max Newman will be offering “all your Black Jet favorites,” plus Dear Francis coffee, and the new addition of made-to-order sandwiches, soups, and (true to Trouble Coffee’s DNA): toast! You can read additional details in this SFGATE piece; stand by for more. 4033 Judah St. at 45th Ave.

Thanks to Vacant to Vibrant, now open is a temporary downtown location of SF’s Polly Ann Ice Cream, an ice cream parlor in the Outer Sunset (at 3138 Noriega Street) since 1955. Known for more than 50 flavors (I love their pistachio almond), I wonder if you can spin their wheel of flavor fortune?! The first 100 customers to come by this Friday March 13th get a free junior scoop. Open 12pm–8pm. 120 Pine St. at Front.

Last month, a tablehopper reader tipped me off to some gossip that Bi-Rite Market was going to open their fourth location in a Richmond District market that has been vacant at the corner of California and 22nd Avenue (it has the vintage Appel & Dietrich Fine Food Market neon blade sign on the corner). The market first opened as Filing & Ingram Grocery in 1905, and the name changed to Appel & Dietrich Fine Food Market when Henry Appel and Clifford Dietrich took over in 1953. It was most recently 6001 California Market, and previously, Super K Market.

I spoke with Bi-Rite Market owner Sam Mogannam in early February about the new project, but since the deal wasn’t quite done, he asked me to give it a month to wait to hear from his team once things were final. Mogannam tells me it still isn’t a done deal, but the SF Standard just shared the news, while SFGATE notes: “that nothing has been finalized at this time while the company reviews ‘contingencies’ that ‘need to be resolved’” (via Patrick Mills, co-CEO of Bi-Rite). Stand by for a timeline (think 2027) and more details once the ink is dry. 6001 California St. at 22nd Ave.

The folks behind Noe Indian Cuisine and Nepa Indian Cuisine have opened Timur Indian Cuisine in the Inner Sunset, offering Nepalese and Indian cuisine, including kathi rolls, and Southern Indian dishes like dosas, Kerala coconut curry, and thali plates. Open daily 10am–11pm. 1386 9th Ave. at Judah St.

This news gave me a fun flashback: when I was working downtown at an ad agency (Goldberg Moser O’Neill) in the mid-’90s, I used to buy my espresso from Torrefazione Italia on the corner of California and Battery—they had wonderful espresso blends, including well-balanced, darker-roast options like the Napoli, which I loved. I had no idea that 20 years ago, Ritual Coffee Roasters founder Eileen Rinaldi used to manage Torrefazione Italia’s Financial District flagship café, until the Seattle-based company was acquired by Starbucks, which was the impetus for her to launch her own coffee company. By 2004, Rinaldi signed the lease for her first café on Valencia Street, and left her last role at Torrefazione Italia in 2005 to fully commit to her vision.

And this October 2026, Ritual Coffee Roasters is opening a new café in that exact same space, and this time, she’s the founder. How about that for a full-circle story? 255Cal is a great building, a Skidmore, Ownings & Merrill modernist classic—I have always admired the curved arches of the base. Stand by for details about the space, design, food program, and opening celebrations! 255 California St. 

I also just spotted a post from Outer Sunset’s Andytown Coffee Roasters (currently celebrating 12 years!) that they’re going to be opening a downtown location at 66 Kearny Street, which I don’t recall hearing about. I reached out for more info but haven’t heard back. 66 Kearny St. at Geary.

Get Lucky on St. Patrick’s Day with All These Goodies

Saint Patrick’s Day is coming up Tuesday March 17th, and some local bakeries are celebrating early: this Saturday March 14th is the next Saturbake at Octavia, and pastry chef Melissa Loar is making a corned beef and cabbage croissant, chocolate-Bailey’s pain suisse, and shepherd’s pie galette. Other treats include a Boston cream doughnut (get it—last time, I tried the tiramisù doughnut and it was an absolute custard-filled dream!), sour cream coffee cake, and Banoffee kouign-amann. There are two different pastry boxes you can pre-order ($45), or you can also walk-up and wait in line for individual items until sold out. 10am–1pm. 1701 Octavia St. at Bush (side door). 

Noe Valley Bakery always has...

the sugar mama

Oakland Restaurant Week Returns March 12th–22nd, 2026!

Savor the flavor of The Town during Oakland Restaurant Week, March 12th–22nd! This 10-day celebration showcases 100+ participating restaurants that highlight Oakland’s diverse culinary scene. From MICHELIN-recognized dining to beloved neighborhood gems, participating restaurants reflect the city’s rich cultural heritage.

To celebrate, we’re giving away the ultimate foodie package, including:
🍽 $150 gift card to ACRE Kitchen & Bar
🍽 $100 gift card to Bardo Lounge & Supper Club

Make it a delicious night out on The Town — on us.

To enter to win a gift certificate, visit this @tablehopper post on Instagram! You have until Friday March 13th, 2026 (11am PT) to enter.

Don’t miss out—make reservations at oaklandrestaurantweek.org.

GTFOUT

Put Down Your Phone, Get Outta the House, and Go See Some Saucy and Only-in-SF Live Entertainment

I know, Netflix wants you to stay home, but there’s nothing as entertaining as these two shows I want to tell you about. And, it’s important to be together right now, to laugh, and support our local and live entertainers. Last month, I finally made it to Stookey’s Blue Room (next door to Stookey’s Club Moderne) for CROONERS: A Live-Sing Lavender Cabaret, which is held on fourth Sundays (two shows). Every seat was taken (make sure to get your ticket in advance!), and many guests got the memo to gussy up. With everyone’s festive evening attire and the Blue Room’s vintage décor, for a moment, I time-traveled to a queer cabaret club decades ago. Invite a friend (or a date!), and go have a snazzy, jazzy Sunday night!

While host Chester Vanderbox was out of town, glam co-hosts EnSeanTé and Polly Amber Ross captivated us with their banter and ballads (Noël Coward would have been proud), along with a couple special guests (like Cal Cadian) who sang their hearts out accompanied by live piano from Brendan Getzell (his mash-up trio of Lola songs was a gas!).

the starlet

the archivist

Supporting subscribers are enjoying a look at The Big 4’s menu from a San Francisco menu guide from 1978, when the restaurant was just two years old.

Become a supporting subscriber, even for a month, and you’ll truly be living your best SF life. (And I’d do it now, because I can’t wait for you to see what I’m cooking up for tablehopper’s 20th anniversary! 🥂)

what’s cookin’

Ciao ciao! You ready for two weeks of rather sunny springy weather? It’s perfect timing, since it’s already and unbelievably the first week of March, which means it’s the First Thursday art walk this Thursday March 5th—check out the participating Tenderloin/TenderNob galleries here (the list will go live on Thursday). Hope to see you in the neighborhood! (Don’t miss the exhibit of Sylvester ephemera and more still on display at Dark Entries Records.) And if you want to dive deeper into some inside baseball about which was the first First Thursday, settle in for this long read: A Tale Of Two First Thursdays. 

For me, this Thursday is a double-header, since I’m also going to be heading to The Regency Ballroom to see Franc Moody perform later that night. I saw them one year at Outside Lands and they put on such an uplifting, disco-funky show! Shake your money maker.

The stunning weather on Saturday is gonna be fantastic for the Chinese New Year parade as the 288-foot-long Golden Dragon winds its way to Chinatown (it starts at 5:15pm at 2nd and Market Street)—keep your eyes peeled for this year’s Parade Grand Marshal: Olympic gold medalist Ailing “Eileen” Gu! And bring your earplugs: Chinatown will be booming with seriously loud fireworks all night.

Here’s a private event invite/insider tip for you supporting subscribers:

This past Sunday was the James Beard Foundation’s Taste America®, a walk-around tasting event at Saluhall. It ended up being such a cool venue for the event, with chefs taking over the upstairs kiosks, like Stuart Brioza serving State Bird’s squid-pork belly-kimchi stir-fry, and I loved this creative bite from Michele McQueen (Town Fare and Lucy Blue in Oakland): blackened catfish dumpling with dashi-infused potlikker, herb oil, and Tabasco pearls. Thanks to all the chefs and spirits and wines and sponsors, what a generous evening—I really needed the bag of dark roast beans from Graffeo the next morning, LOL. Here’s a clip of me being interviewed on the fly by Liam Mayclem at the end of the night—and after a few margaritas 🍹.

So, your hopper is finally going to head out of town for her first Cherry Bombe Jubilee on April 25th, and I’m planning to extend my stay for a week in New York at the end of April. It has been toooooo long. If you have any recos or hook-ups for an empty room or apartment in Manhattan (or Fort Greene), or if you’re a New York friend who would like to escape the snow and do an apartment swap (and cat sit), hit me up!

Who knows, maybe someone from the East Coast coming out for SF’s Cookbook Week (April 21st–25th) will need a place to land! Take a look at all the special dinners, book talks, community events, and happy hours here. Friday April 24th is the marquee event, Headnotes Live at the Presidio Theatre, a theatrical variety show produced by some of the minds behind Pop Up Magazine, so it’s sure to be entertaining.

Last week, I had a blast at the preview party for JouJou, opening this Friday—supporting subscribers get all the details about this glam newcomer in today’s newsletter. And Sunday March 8th is International Women’s Day—read about this year’s Festa della Donna at A16 and more events below. Here’s to all the amazing women—past, present, and future! 🥂

Wishing you an inspiring and delicious week.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Ooh-La-La: The City’s French Dining Scene Is Getting a Big Glam-Up with JouJou, Opening Friday in the Design District

Last week, I was invited to a preview party of JouJou, a splashy, seafood-focused French restaurant opening this Friday March 6th from Lazy Bear’s executive chef and partner David Barzelay and managing partner Colleen Booth (Lazy Bear and True Laurel). The name means “plaything” or “toy,” which hints at the festive sensibility of this project, which is designed to inspire people to abandon their Netflix queue at home and go out on the town, whether you want to meet up for a drink after working from home all day, to getting spiffed up to join friends for a sumptuous dinner. As Booth says of the concept: “It’s about creating a place that meets you where you are, but always feels like an occasion.”

Formerly The Grove—flanking the roundabout at One Henry Adams Street in the Design District—the space has been massively transformed by Jon de la Cruz (DLC-ID), architect Heidi Liebes (Liebes Architects), and Black Creek Builders. When you approach the venue, you can peek through the street-side windows into the busy kitchen. I had a meowza moment walking through the front door and stepping over the jaunty tiled JouJou logo into the 6,500-square-foot space that is so far beyond the scale of our usual 49-seaters. It’s invigorating to see such an expansive and well-appointed restaurant open after so many have closed in recent years.

The bar and raw bar will open at 4pm, and the full dining room will be open Sun 5pm–9pm, Wed–Thu 5pm–10pm, and Fri–Sat 5pm–11pm; closed Mon–Tue. Reserve here. 65 Division St. at Henry Adams.

Upcoming Projects Include the Return of a Cheese Shop at the Ferry Building and a Taker for the Former Eureka Lounge

Later this summer, the folks behind the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant (owners Peter Granoff and Debbie Zachareas, with operational support from GM Sarah Knoefler) will be opening Ferry Plaza Cheese Shop just next door. The market-style shop inside the Ferry Building Marketplace will highlight local cheeses, small U.S. producers, and international selections, with seasonal and artisan cheeses, along with items to pair with them. There will be cheese platters, grilled cheese sandwiches, panini, and lunch options built for takeout, as well as larger-format cheese boards for office lunches, entertaining, and catered events. 

Great news: the long-closed Eureka Lounge (since 2019) in the Castro is going to reopen as NOVA, a cocktail-forward restaurant and bar from Colm O’Brien, a former Lookout bartender who opened Bar 49 in 2024 at 2295 Market Street—looks like he’s out to reverse all the cursed spaces! The Bay Area Reporter spoke with O’Brien, who said, “NOVA will have two full bars, an outdoor patio, and a kitchen. A menu will be announced in the coming months.”

The two-level building will be renovated over the next six months, and O’Brien is hoping to open in the fall. It’s a quirky space, but it used to be so much fun to have crispy chicken livers and a steak downstairs by the fireplace, and head to the upstairs bar for Manhattans before (and after) dinner. It was such a vibey little date spot, so I’m curious to see what the next incarnation will feel like. 4063 18th St. at Hartford.

The End of an Era: We Be Sushi Closes Their Last Location in the Mission

Awwww, Valencia Street old-timer We Be Sushi has closed its last location, after 39 years in the Mission. Mission Local reports owner Andy Tonozuka finally decided to retire (at 76!). The restaurant first opened in 1987 at 538 Valencia Street, and this location opened 30 years ago at 1071 Valencia Street (in 1996). I remember there was always a long line for its affordable, well-made sushi and hot sake, with folks jockeying for a table in such a teeny-tiny, personal space. Thanks for all the long hours and cold beers, chef! 1071 Valencia St.

Women to the Front: March Is Women’s History Month

March is Women’s History Month, and here are some events where we can uplift the badass women in our lives, especially on Sunday March 8th, which is International Women’s Day. It’s one of my favorite annual traditions to head to A16 for Festa della Donna, an event Shelley Lindgren has been lovingly celebrating for years, and the dining room is always full of amazing women in food and drink. This year, they will be hosting jamón cortadora Jen Herman (the only registered female Cortadora Profesional de Jamón in the United States), cheesemaker-owner Audrey Hitchcock from Ramini Mozzarella, as well as highlighting products on the menu made by women, including Liberty Farms duck, plus a fun giveaway from the sister-owned The Caviar Co.

Shelley curates a special selection of wines from women winemakers in Italy and California, including Tansy Wines, the project founded by Shelley and Kitty Oestlien. Since it falls on a Sunday, you can make a reservation all day for lunch or dinner, or just swing by the bar; 12pm–9:30pm. 2355 Chestnut St. (A16 Rockridge and A16 Napa will also be celebrating.)

On Wednesday March 11th, Flour + Water Pizzeria in North Beach is hosting a meet-and-greet event to celebrate The Diaspora Spice Co. Cookbook launch with founder Sana Javeri Kadri and co-author Asha Loupy. Diaspora Spice Co. is a woman-owned, single-origin spice company that sources directly from regenerative farms to create a more equitable spice trade (I love their Pragati turmeric, masala chai, and aromatic Aranya black peppercorns). The cookbook is filled with recipes inspired by home-cooked meals that Kadri has enjoyed over the years on her annual visits to partner farms in India and Sri Lanka. 532 Columbus Ave.

All F+W Pizzeria/Pizza Shop locations will be featuring a special collab pizza inspired by a recipe in the book (ham hock + haakh pizza with Kashmiri-braised greens) for the month of March in honor of Women’s History Month. FWHG is also doing Diaspora-inspired specials at Penny Roma and Flour + Water—a portion of proceeds from all three dishes will benefit CHIRLA (The Coalition for Humane Immigrant Rights).

On Tuesday March 17th, Merkado in SoMa will host top local chefs at the third My Taco, My Choice!, a taco competition to raise funds and awareness for women’s health and reproductive freedom. Chefs include Kirsten Shaw (formerly Sorrel, Atelier Crenn), Lori Baker (Waterbar), and Monique Lopez Feybesse (chef-owner of Tarts de Feybesse) returns as a judge (you’ll also get to cast your vote for the People’s Choice taco, which will be added to Merkado’s Taco Tuesday menu), with Dulce du Leche as emcee. 

Tickets on Resy ($50) or at the door ($55); each ticket includes one taco from each chef, plus a dessert from Nan and Zoe at My Bakery, My Choice. Proceeds will go to Reproductive Freedom for All California. 5pm. 130 Townsend St.

More Special Events: Indian Restaurant Week and The Anti-ICE Supper Club

This week is the second Indian Restaurant Week in San Francisco (March 1st–7th), this time featuring special prix-fixe menus inspired by Holi at TIYA, New Delhi Restaurant, Bombay Brasserie, Amber, Rooh, and Copra.

Next week, Roads & Kingdoms is bringing The Anti-ICE Supper Club to the Bay Area, a series of fundraising dinners in support of local organizations defending communities under attack. On Sunday March 8th, Nelson German is hosting an evening at his Oakland social club, Sobre Mesa (passed bites and one drink for $65). The March 9th dinner with Reem’s is sold out, but chefs Val M. Cantú of Californios and chef David Yoshimura of Nisei are pairing up for a big-ticket dinner at Californios on March 10th! Net proceeds from all events benefit Bay Resistance.

the lush

the socialite

At Culinary Clash, Enjoy a Three-Course Dinner in Support of the CCSF Culinary Arts & Hospitality Studies Program

It’s that time of the year when you can show support to the City College of San Francisco’s Culinary Arts & Hospitality Studies program, which provides training for students pursuing careers in hospitality. For years, the department supplies the Bay Area hospitality industry with highly skilled graduates who shape our dynamic food and beverage community. Past alums include Sam Mogannam of Bi-Rite Market and Jeff Hanak of Liholiho Yacht Club.

Book your table for Culinary Clash, their annual fundraising event and competition held at Bistro 888 at InterContinental San Francisco. Over three Sunday evenings, six rising culinary talents from CCSF take over the hotel’s kitchen under the leadership of Director of F&B and Culinary Operations Norma Whitt, presenting original menus to the public and a panel of local chefs, media, and industry leaders. Students gain real-world restaurant experience while competing for cash prizes; winners will be announced in late March.

For the next two Sundays (March 8th and 15th), you can taste a three-course menu from a two-student team for $78 per person, with optional Kivelstadt Cellars wine pairings for $20. Review the menus and reserve your spot via OpenTable under the “Experiences” section here—be sure to look for March 8th (night #2) or March 15th (night #3). Please note menus are subject to change. Proceeds from each dinner are donated to CCSF Culinary Arts & Hospitality Studies Department. 888 Howard St.

the starlet

what’s cookin’

How was that rainy night for you? Hello, pineapple express! (I love a tropical storm.) So, this week’s column has a number of supporting subscriber–only stories, including an in-depth, exclusive preview of TBD izakaya from Ray Lee of AKIKOS and Friends Only, who’s collaborating with Tommy Cleary of the former Hina Yakitori. It’s opening in the original Akiko’s on Bush Street—here’s to many more memories of delicious meals there.

Another week, another badass sandwich! Today’s column has a writeup of a gem of a new Tunisian-owned sandwich shop, Gada, which you’re going to love—wait until you meet Moe. I have recent visits to some other new spots to share, but I ran out of time to write about them. Next week!

This Thursday is Gambero Rosso’s annual Tre Bicchieri wine tasting event, which means many of the Italian restaurants and wine bars in the City will be full of Italian winemakers and hosting special dinners this week. (I look forward to seeing lots of well-dressed Italians with good shoes.)

On Sunday evening, it’s James Beard Foundation’s Taste America®, a walk-around tasting event at Saluhall, with a stellar lineup of chefs, wines, spirits, and more. Read more in a previous tablehopper issue here. Tickets have sold out, but you can join the waitlist. Hope to see you there!

Let’s dive into this week’s column.

Cin cin!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

An Exclusive Preview of TBD, an Upscale Izakaya in the Original Akiko’s from Ray Lee and Hina Yakitori’s Tommy Cleary

Que Bonita: Maria Isabel Opens Next Week from the Dalida Duo, Bringing Coastal Mexican Cuisine to Presidio Heights

Last April, I was first to break the news that Dalida’s chefs-owners Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz had a new project called Maria Isabel coming to the former Ella’s American Kitchen in Presidio Heights (Ella’s opened in 1990, and was such a popular brunch spot for years, until it closed during the pandemic). I drove by the location last week, and this stylish restaurant really brings some glam to the corner! I’m so impressed they massively transformed the space in less than a year and are opening next Tuesday March 3rd.

Named in honor of Laura’s sister, Maria, and her mother, Isabel, this highly personal restaurant will highlight coastal Mexican cuisine inspired by Laura’s upbringing in Acapulco (in the coastal state of Guerrero), as well as some family roots in Sinaloa (think aguachile, chilorio, and machaca), adding local and seasonal ingredients and contemporary presentations.

The dishes will be evocative of family meals, and are designed to be shared (the menu is à la carte, with a family-style tasting menu for $90pp). Seafood dishes include grilled oysters with salsa borracha; aguachiles; and ceviches; along with a pulpo enamorado (“octopus in love”) tostada with grilled octopus, tomatoes, and serrano chiles; and a crab tortita ahogada, a small torta stuffed with crab, charred pineapple, and serrano chiles, with a guajillo and crab sauce. 

They are nixtamalizing local corn and heirloom corn from Mexico for their own freshly made in-house masa, which will be used in tortillas, and dishes like tamalitos de maíz with sea urchin and roasted poblano crema, and a plato principale of chochoyotes and mushrooms: masa dumplings in a savory broth made from local mushrooms (and bone marrow served on the side). Save room for dessert: there’s a baked Acapulco, with coconut-mezcal sorbet, passion fruit, coconut cake, and saladitas (a Mexican saltine cracker). 

The bar program—developed by consulting bar director Evan Williams, who is also at Dalida—will include a range of Mexican spirits beyond tequila and mezcal, like sotol, bacanora, raicilla, and lechuguilla, as well as gins and whiskies currently being produced in Mexico (with a focus on small-batch and Mexican-owned spirits).

Cocktails have nostalgic roots, like the Truchita (“little trout”), inspired by both the Paloma and the Salmoncito (a delicious cocktail made with gin, grapefruit juice, Campari, and tonic), here a carbonated drink with papaya seed–infused blanco tequila, clarified grapefruit skin cordial, Granada Vallet, and lime. 

Wine director Jerry McGie (Nightbird, Frances, Osito) is assembling around 80 wine selections from California, as well as regions like Baja California and Querétaro in Mexico, and South America, with a focus on Chile and Argentina, and a commitment to highlight up-and-coming producers. All of the 15 wines by the glass (five whites, five reds, one orange, one rosé, and three sparkling) are made by female producers.

The stunning 50-seat restaurant was designed by Jenne Wicht of JAK W, which is divided into two dining rooms with different palettes (Maria’s room is pink, cream, and soft green, while Isabel’s features deep green and earthy browns), with wallpaper and a mural painted by Emily Parkinson, a hand-carved wood door, terrazzo floors, plates from HACHA Céramica in Jalisco, stoneware dishes from Oakland-based Sarah Kersten Studio, and blown glass from various artisans across Mexico. Reservations are open now, book a table while you can. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9:30pm. 500 Presidio Ave. at California.

A Visit to a One-of-a-Kind, Tunisian-Influenced Sandwich Counter in the Castro

On Friday afternoon, I did a quick swing-by to Gada, a sandwich shop I mentioned in last week’s column that recently opened in the former Chadwick’s on Market Street in the Castro. This is the first food business from the gregarious, Tunisian-born owner Moe Abidi, who has so much passion for and pride in everything he’s offering and making. Shout-out to Moe’s girlfriend, who encouraged him to open his own shop (which he named after his mother). His menu is centered around raclette plates, sandwiches, and wraps on housemade melawi (unleavened Tunisian flatbread made with semolina, olive oil, and a touch of honey).

Moe rolls out a ball of the melawi dough to order (he gives it a little drizzle of Tunisian olive oil) before placing the thin sheet onto a griddle, which puffs and browns the tender dough like a tortilla. The soft, flaky melawi is given a swipe of harissa from his hometown (Cap Bon), and is tempered by a slathering of sour cream (sometimes he uses “triangle cheese,” which is like Laughing Cow cheese).

2375 Market St. at Castro.

Some Updates on What’s New and Coming Soon

New Openings and Reopenings Around Town

Back in December, I wrote about the soft opening of Kissakeko in Nob Hill, a tiny kissaten (Japanese coffee bar), saké bar, and jazz “kissa” listening café, with vinyl records playing over listude speakers (the only ones in the country) made for them in Nara, Japan. They are now open Thu–Sat and Mon 1pm–8pm. Closed Sun, Tue, Wed. 1327 Mason St. at Jackson.

Also last December, supporting subscribers got the scoop...

the lush

Let’s Get Lit: New Neon and Bar Part Time’s New Project Will Serve Cocktails

Well, well, well, check out the new neon signage at Emperor Norton’s BoozeLand! Thanks to an SF Shines grant, co-owner Kevin DeMattia was inspired to hire Jim Rizzo of Neon Works and Al Barna and Randall Holman of San Francisco Neon walking tours to design and create new signage. SFist shares: “Randall custom-designed the lettering ‘Emperor Norton’ in a script based on the Emperor's handwriting, and the words ‘Boozeland’ in art deco script on either side of that.” Love to see it (instead of neon signs being replaced by LED, please stop). 510 Larkin St. at Turk.

The SF Chronicle reports the owners of wine bar/club Bar Part Time (Dan Small, Jeremy Castillo, and Justin Dolezal) are opening a nightclub called Downtime in the former Bissap Baobab on Mission Street. While they’ll be pouring zero-zero (ultra-unprocessed) natural wines, they’re also bringing on longtime Mission bartender Eric Ochoa (Dalva, ABV, Elda, Bar Agricole) to create cocktails for the club (woot!), and the couple behind Rose Pizzeria (Gerad Gobel and Alexis Rorabaugh) will be coming up with a food menu (not pizza!) as well. The target is a late fall opening. 2243 Mission St.

the socialite

This one is for my fellow cheese lovers: the 20th annual California Artisan Cheese Festival is Friday March 20th through Sunday March 22nd, with farm and producer tours, tasting seminars and workshops, a cheese crawl, and a Sunday marketplace, all in and around Sonoma County. 

Some events and tastings are sold out (but there are still a few openings, act quickly!), and get your ticket to the Sunday Artisan Cheese Tasting and Marketplace at the Sonoma County Fairgrounds in Santa Rosa. You’ll be able to meet over 18 cheesemakers, and taste products from over 60 artisan producers of California cheese (including small-batch, limited production cheeses), wine, beer, ciders, and specialty foods. New to the Marketplace: JUST CREAMERY, Shared Cultures, Bonjerk, Amalgam Wines, The Caviar Co., and more.

A few of my past marketplace faves were the farmer’s cheeses from Valley Ford Co., San Geronimo from Nicasio Valley, smoked cheddar from Fiscalini, seasonal Laychee from Pennyroyal Farm, and pretty much the entire table from Achadinha Cheese Company. Be sure to pick up a 2026 California Cheese Trail map (for free!). It was a fun Gagliardi family outing, and we went antique shopping in Petaluma after the marketplace. Get outta town!

the archivist