what’s cookin’

Howdy, hopper friends! Happy Friday. I hope the misty Fogust wind hasn’t blown you away—I just keep reminding myself that September and Rocktober are coming soon with our best weather (but I’m sad peaches are leaving us early this year, wah). 

I have also been hanging on for the return of the Despacio sound system at Portola Music Festival the last weekend of September (kicking off with Despacio Extravaganza, a special Friday night party to celebrate Portola’s fifth anniversary!). Friends who love music: I really hope to see you on the dance floor—I will be in that tent from the very first song they play to the very last. Freaks only! You can read my writeup about last year’s Despacio at Portola, which was so life changing that I chased it to Miami a month later. (Here’s the proof: a pic of yours truly having the time of her life at Despacio at iii Points in Miami last October.) AND: Soulwax also just announced a Thursday night—September 24th—pre-Portola-party show at the Regency; the last time I saw them perform there in 2018 with their full setup was so sick! Rest up, buckle up.

Another thing to strap in for: as many of you longtime subscribers already know, this is tablehopper’s 20th anniversary year (mamma mia), and I’m finally mustering the energy and carving out the time to kick off a series of small celebrations over the coming months. Unfortunately, I just don’t have the bandwidth to produce a big bodacious PARTAY on the scale of Bohemian Sunday at the Savoy Tivoli a couple years ago, but we’ll have some quality time together at a variety of intimate tablehopper cocktail parties, special dinners, happy hours, brunches, and more. I look forward to clinking glasses with you! 🥂 There will be bubbles (that should be the title of my memoir!). Only supporting subscribers (and awesome patrons and super patrons) will be able to get tickets to these soirées! Stay tuned!

If you (or a brand or company or product you work with) would like to be involved as an event partner or sponsor/donor/supporter/underwriter, please get in touch! There are a bunch of opportunities and ways we can work together. Thank you for supporting tablehopper’s 20th anniversary event series!

There’s much more to say about my 20th, but first, this bizzee lady has work to do. I hope you enjoy today’s issue: I hit up a couple new places this past week offering affordable dining, from khao mun gai to katsu.

In fried chicken we trust. XO!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Calling All Khao Mun Gai Fans: Here’s Where to Find Some Really Delicious Thai Chicken Rice 

After looking at the hunger-inducing pictures of the khao mun gai (Thai chicken rice) at the new Ruay Mitr (the name means “prosperous friends”) on the edge of Nob Hill and Chinatown, I asked tablehopper summer intern Francesca Gasparini to please write it up in an opening report. But, I couldn’t stop thinking about it, so I headed over for dinner with a friend to check it out this past week (I love KMG). 

And then there’s the damn AI art on the walls, with AI-generated street scenes and posters for the business, which feel at odds with the homestyle food and intention of this place. Faux nostalgia is so dystopian—they should just put some vintage Thai beer posters up and call it a day. Heck, I would prefer bare walls to retro AI slop. Please make it stop. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

And so, to not render Francesca’s work in vain, here’s what she wrote about the new shop:

Ruay Mitr prides itself on perfectly prepared, tender chicken, fragrant rice, comforting broth and homemade sauces. Inspired by neighborhood chicken and rice shops common in Thailand, the restaurant offers just a handful of dishes prepared using traditional Thai recipes and fresh ingredients to infuse the meat with flavor. There are a few variations of the dish you can choose from—including poached, fried, or braised chicken with curry—yet their menu extends past just the one dish. 

Traditional Thai chicken and rice shops are rooted in flavorful meat served over khao mun (fragrant rice), and extend to include crispy pork belly, barbecued pork, roast duck, and slow-braised pork, among others. To honor this same practice, Ruay Mitr’s menu also features barbecued pork and crispy pork belly. In addition to their meat and rice dishes, the shop rounds out their menu with a selection of traditional appetizers (the crispy curried samosas and crab wontons sound divine) and mango sticky rice and fried bananas for dessert. Open daily 11am–2pm and 5pm–8pm. 1059 Powell St. at Washington.

A Casual Place for Japanese-Korean Katsu Plates (and More) Opens in Anza Vista

Cinderella Bakery Opens a Second Location on 24th Street This Week

The project delays are over: according to a post on Instagram, Cinderella Bakery (a family-owned Russian bakery that has been in Inner Richmond since 1953!) will be opening their second location in the former La Victoria on 24th Street in the Mission on Friday August 28th. (I wrote about this project back in February 2025, so it’s good to see it come to fruition.)

Bring on the pelmeni in broth (perfect for Fogust), pirogi, piroshki, and all their pastries. Owners Mike and Marika Fishman are looking forward to being part of the Calle 24 community. I’ll get more details together for an upcoming column, but I just wanted to share the good news for now. 2937 24th St. at Alabama.

Ugh! Hideous Vandals Broke Most of the Many Windows at Boogaloos in the Mission 

What the actual hell. A tablehopper reader wrote in with some terrible news: “Someone broke all the windows at Boogaloos! It didn’t look like anything was stolen, but someone had knocked a hole in all 8(?) front-facing windows. It’s really terrible.” Indeed. My friend who has his shop nearby told me most of the big windows were boarded up, and it’s going to be a costly repair job. For a corner location known for its big windows, it’s so disheartening to see.

I reached out for more information and clarification on how we can help, and spoke with one of the owners, Antonio Luna, who took over the business with his wife, Karla Garcia, in April 2025. He said it happened sometime on Monday night (August 17th), and the SFPD called him super early on Tuesday morning (at 4:15am) to let him know. Boogaloos was the only place hit. It looks like 12 windows will need to be replaced, which is estimated to cost more than $55K. Fortunately, insurance is going to cover it (after they pay their deductible), but the restaurant had to close for two days to clean up the mess, and business is slow. If you can please ignore the boarded-up windows and go visit them for brunch this weekend, or in the coming month, it would really help them out.

Of course, someone has already tagged the plywood. Is there an artist/muralist who can help make the plywood look better until the windows are replaced? It will keep things from looking so rundown (they need all the customers they can get). You can call the restaurant and ask for Antonio.

Luna said this was the third time someone has broken a window at Boogaloos since they took over—the most recent time was just two weeks ago, and the vandals tried to steal their espresso machine. He paid to replace the window out of his pocket ($1,500). Here’s hoping The City can step in and help—this Mission brunch spot has been holding down the sunny corner of 22nd and Valencia since 1994. 3296 22nd St. at Valencia.

Noe Valley Updates: Alice’s Restaurant Is Closing, Fresca 2.0 Is Opening

According to this post on Threads, “After 30 years Alice’s in Noe Valley is closing! 😩 Sad to see this neighborhood Chinese neighborhood gone.” Sharon and James Sung opened Alice’s Restaurant in 1996, which is known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes, like smoked pork, Alice’s spicy eggplant, and orange chicken, and this neighborhood spot is also popular for its great lunch special. I called and got the word that the couple is retiring—the last day of business is August 31st.

I guess customers will be able to head over to the nearby and Sung family–owned Eric’s Restaurant (Kim Dang and Tony Sung), which is also known for its Hunan and Mandarin dishes (it opened in 1991). But, alas, we will no longer be able to compare who makes a better General Tso’s chicken. 1599 Sanchez St. at 29th St.

You can read this story in SFGATE about the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family business. The opening is set for Monday August 24th, starting at 4pm, and reservations are open now. Follow along for updates here. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.

the lush

Getting Cinched Up

Just a heads-up that The Cinch Saloon will be closing temporarily for renovations starting Monday September 21st. According to the sign in their window: “We will keep you posted on social media as the reopening date becomes available, sometime around mid-October. Thank you for your patience during that time!” 

The Friday before the closure (September 18th) will be a wild one: the illustrious Anna Conda is coming back to town and holding a Charlie Horse reunion, the rock ’n’ roll drag show that was always wild! From the flyer: “The old gang is getting back together. A little older but clearly none the wiser! Anna Conda welcomes to the stage once more: Monistat, Miss Nix, Lucy Borden, Mutha Chucka, Dizzy Blank, Juanita Fajita, Kegel Kater, Downy, Turleen, Sandy Shorts, Noseeum, and Sheena Rose. With the Marcy Playground Minute with Miss Chief at 11pm. DJ Dirty Knees. Guest Bartender Michael Brown. Names names names, Darling. Zimmerframe valet at the door. FRIDAY SEPT 18TH. SHOW AT MIDNIGHT!” (And, psssst, it’s Glendon’s birthday that night!) 1723 Polk St. at Washington.

Be SF Proud, Drink Pisco

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco’s trademark cocktail just got its own week of valor. From August 21st–28th, local bars will be taking part in Pisco Punch Week, a time to celebrate the ingenious recipe created right here in The City, while shedding light on its namesake Peruvian spirit.

Pisco punch was created in the mid-1800s at the Bank Exchange Saloon, a famed Gold Rush bar, by bartender and owner Duncan Nicol. The drink is built around a few key ingredients: Peruvian Italia pisco, pineapple gum syrup, and fresh lemon juice. While the recipe was supposed to remain a secret, many were quick to reinvent the drink due to its immediate popularity. Loved for its tropical, refreshing taste with a discreet yet potent dose of alcohol, pisco punch became known as “lemonade that kicks like a mule” (according to the Pisco Punch Week website). Prohibition snuffed out much of the pisco punch craze, but BarSol (pisco producer and host of Pisco Punch Week) hopes to reinvigorate San Franciscans’ appreciation for this local cocktail through this event.

Throughout the week, participating bars—including Aziza, Bar Esper, Bar Sprezzatura, Elixir, High Horse, Hog Island, Kaiyo, La Mar, Lillie Coit, Novela, Old Ship, Per Diem, San Francisco Historium, and Tiya—will be serving original cocktails made using BarSol pisco, in addition to traditional pisco punch.

Pisco punch is not only a relic of San Francisco’s culinary legacy, but also an introduction to the rich history of the spirit. BarSol prides itself on preserving the same century-old technique it uses to distill fresh wines fermented exclusively from pisco grapes harvested in the Southern Valley of Ica and distilled at Bodega San Isidro. Salud!

the archivist

The Flatiron That Refuses to Fall

By Francesca Gasparini

Having withstood earthquakes, organized crime, ever-changing businesses, and Hollywood’s greatest stars, the famed Sentinel Building (otherwise known as Columbus Tower) stands steadfast in the narrow sliver before the intersection of Kearny Street and Columbus Avenue. This fabulous flatiron building catches the eye of everyone in North Beach with its bright green patina and countless bay windows. 

Subscribe to tablehopper and support our love for San Francisco. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Well hellllllloooooo Fogust. Here we are. At least I just finished having my closet painted a violet-tinged 80’s fuchsia that will have me thinking pink on the gray days. I also had my bathroom painted yesterday (a pinky lavender that is evocative of Easter, hence the paint’s precious name: Bunny Nose Pink), so things have been a bit chaotic over here at Hopper HQ, but visually uplifting, that’s for sure. Let’s just say focusing on writing while a couple chatty and interesting painters are five feet away from you was not really conducive to finishing my column yesterday, ha. And now, I need to put all my caftans back into my new Pinky Benson hawt box closet, so let’s get to the news.

But first: please help support and signal boost this fundraiser to help rebuild and reopen the Tenderloin Museum after suffering major water damage. They have uninsured recovery needs, and in this city of obscene wealth, we need to set them up with more than the fundraiser’s current total of $5,733 in donations to ensure the museum’s stable future. As a good friend wrote to me: “A vital space for sharing the stories of this unparalleled neighborhood, the TLM is an under appreciated SF treasure that needs our support. Please donate if you can, and share with your networks. Any amount helps.” You can read and share this post on Instagram as well, thank you.

Have a fun weekend: there’s a lot going on, like the SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival on Saturday (and you can shake off those carbs to The Juan MacLean, who is playing at Public Works that night!), and Sunday is all about Dirty Martini Frappés, plus even more tasty events below.

See you next week. Think best thoughts for our Big Sur friends.

With love,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Pasta Supply Co Is Coming to Cole Valley, and You Can Help Them Open By Snagging One of Their Weekly Pasta Plans

A couple weeks ago, supporting subscribers got the scoop first that the next location of Pasta Supply Co is coming to Cole Valley, opening in the former Peet’s Coffee (once Tully’s Coffee, and Spinelli Coffee Company before that). Founder Anthony Strong, who has lived in the neighborhood for 12 years, and his wife, Katherine Altonaga, are gunning for a fall opening (think October). Strong says he’s hopeful that people taking the N Judah home will be inspired to jump off and stop by to grab something for dinner before making their way to their final destination in the Sunset. (Always thinking, that one.)

This will be the third PSC shop in three years, and they continue to pride themselves on staying small (but mighty)—this location should have 26 seats, plus sidewalk seats, too. The retail setup will be the same as the other two spots in the Inner Richmond and the Mission, but they’ll be adding coffee-rubbed porchetta on their ciabatta here as a cute nod to the former Spinelli’s. 

Something else new they’re trying is to crowdsource/crowdfund the project themselves instead of paying one of the existing platforms their fees (or getting investors, or a loan, and starting the venture in debt). Here’s where things get fun: 200 subscribers can buy the Pasta for a Year plan for $550, and once a week, you can take home one pasta per week for 52 weeks (from the crab + sriracha rangooni to an extruded pasta, you’ll have over 30 to choose from). 

If you’re feeling really pazzo—like a certified pasta freak—there’s the Pasta for Life plan, which is $4K and limited to 100 subscribers. Strong explains it’s like getting the PSC employee discount by paying up front, and what’s super cool is you don’t need to wait for Cole Valley to open: the plans are redeemable now at any and all of their locations. You know what to do! 919 Cole St. at Carl.

Upcoming SF Projects from the Friends and Family Team and The Mushroom

Your Presidio Picnic Just Got Reimagined: The Mess Hall Opens August 15th

By Francesca Gasparini

There’s nothing like stopping your run halfway through to get a steaming plate of crispy Korean fried chicken. Good news for picnic-goers and deeply discouraging news for the exercise-focussed crew: your favorite running path just got a tantalizing food hall right in the center of it. Consider your cardio officially compromised. 

The Presidio’s very own Mess Hall will open in Tunnel Tops Park this Friday August 15th, and is ready to lure in all passersby with its all-day offerings. Incorporated into the Presidio National Park, this new food hall brings three restaurants, a cocktail bar, café, and specialty food market to Tunnel Tops. The Mess Hall’s 6,200-square-foot space offers dinner with a view, with sprawling vistas of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz Island, and the Palace of Fine Arts. The building was originally constructed in 1897 as part of the Presidio’s historic military campus, but has been newly renovated into a modern communal space designed by Studio KDA and built by ACI.

The Mess Hall’s six different concepts were thoughtfully selected by consulting chef Peter Serpico (of the Momofuku Group and STARR Restaurants) and founding partner and director of operations Nate Leonard. They aimed to choose options that were casual, delicious, and could be served all day.

The three featured restaurants include Dayboat Seafood, serving up oysters, shrimp cocktail, crudo, clam chowder, and hand rolls; Boda, a Korean-Japanese street-food concept offering Korean fried chicken, housemade banchan, kimchi fried rice, and mandu (dumplings); and, finally, Breadwinner, supplying breakfast sandwiches, smashburgers, salads, and subs.

For what to expect from the coffee bar, get excited for Wrecking Ball beans and baked goods from James Beard Award–nominated Breadbelly, all ready to go every morning by 7am. 

The bar will display a full beverage program featuring house-crafted cocktails alongside local beer and wine to be enjoyed on the bridge-facing patio and wraparound deck. Aiming to transform this space into a neighborhood staple, the Mess Hall will also have a specialty market stocked with prepared grab-and-go food, bottled beverages, cheeses, and picnic essentials. They also plan to collaborate with local chefs and restaurants for seasonal pop-ups, such as seafood boils and smashburger cookouts on the Tunnel Tops outdoor grills. Operating hours will be Mon–Thu 7am–8pm; open Fri–Sun 7am–10pm. 201 Halleck St. at French. 

A Couple More New Casual Stops in Flava Town

By Francesca Gasparini

San Francisco summer is bringing new restaurants popping up left and right, so buckle up, because we have news of even more openings to deliver.

Nightbird Knows How to Celebrate a 10-Year Anniversary: With 10 Fun and Super-Tasty Events

Big congrats to chef Kim Alter and Ron Boyd, who are celebrating 10 years of Nightbird! Of course, they’re doing it in style, with 10 events to commemorate each year of business (which is like dog years, amirite?). They kick things off this Wednesday August 12th, with the redux of PrimeBird, their modern homage to House of Prime Rib (using Flannery Beef, with smoked wagyu bone marrow hollandaise that you dunk the truffle and cheddar Yorkshire pudding into, uh huh!). You get three courses for $85 (exclusive of tax, 18% service charge, and SF mandate 6%), plus there are some supplements (they’re talking about adding a seared New York steak this season). It all goes down in Nightjar, their PDR flanking Nightbird. You can book your table on intermittent Tuesday–Friday nights (5pm–8:30pm) through September. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

And then this Thursday August 13th, the beef parade continues with the return of Nightburger, their decadent daytime burger pop-up, which you may recall from the early days of the pandemic. They’ll be serving their double cheeseburger (with a cheese skirt and their special 138 sauce), their fried chicken sandwich (made with chicken marinated in buttermilk and shio koji, served with slaw, fried onions, and pepperoncini on a Kaiser roll—with fried chicken skin!), waffle fries, and fun “soda jerk” cocktails inside the Linden Room; you can sit down in the bar or get your order to go from 2pm–8pm. 292 Linden St. at Gough.

Sandwich fanatics: you don’t want to miss C Squared (as in See You Next Tuesday) on Monday August 24th, Kim’s homage to the rowdy The Wieners Circle in Chicago (she lived in Chi-Town for a year). Standing in for the notoriously hostile staff will be Sister Roma slinging barbs and insults. On the menu:

12pm to sell out. 334 Gough St. at Linden.

More Anniversaries and Shindigs

A fellow biz celebrating their 20th anniversary this year is The Front Porch, and they’re throwing a 20th buffet and boil this Saturday August 15th. There will be a big-ass crawfish boil, a buffet of fried chicken, mac and cheese, rice and beans, cornbread, and coleslaw for $50 (reserve your ticket here). There will also be a second line performance from MJ’s Brass Boppers, flash tattoos, and good times rollin’. 2pm–5pm.

Although Saturday August 15th is officially Ferragosto (Italy’s treasured summer holiday), Delfina will be hosting their second annual Ferragosto aperitivo party on Tuesday August 18th, with spirits and specialty cocktails from sponsor Bordiga, Italian wines from Oliver McCrum, frosé, and complimentary snacks inspired by beachy good vibes. 5pm–6:30pm.

Closures Around the Bay

Some unfortunate closures include Chicken Fried Palace in the former WesBurger ’N’ More in the Mission (read more in these pieces by The SF Standard and SFGATE); Superprime Steakhouse was priced out by their landlord in SoMa (via The SF Standard); longtime Russian Hill restaurant Hyde Street Seafood House and Raw Bar has closed; and over in Old Oakland, Horn Barbecue has closed their last location (via Berkeley Eats and SF Chronicle).

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A few weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram, but you only have until this Saturday to enter to win!

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

For inspo, here are a couple of my entries!

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Raise Your Glass at the Toast & Taste Gala: City of Magic

By Francesca Gasparini

Mark your calendars for the evening of Tuesday August 18th, for a night of fantastic food, exceptional drinks, and a cause worth raising a glass to at San Francisco Private Dining Venues’ (SFPDV) ninth annual Toast & Taste gala. SFPDV is gathering 40 of San Francisco’s top restaurants, including A16, Acquerello, Boulevard, Copra, Harris’ Restaurant, Merkado, Original Joe’s, Perbacco, and Spruce, to create a night full of delectable offerings for a worthy cause. The event will be hosted at the snazzy Chotto Matte.

100 percent of proceeds from this event will go toward Compass Family Services, an organization devoted to aiding families experiencing homelessness. This gala has raised over $428,000 in past years to help parents and children who are struggling to stay afloat. Compass Family Services has been in operation for more than 100 years, and has delivered lasting stability to thousands of families (11,000 individuals last year alone!). Join SFPDV for a night to give back to the community by doing what we do best.

Tickets are on sale now. If you purchase your ticket online, general admission will ring in at $150, or purchase at the door the night of the 18th for $175. 6pm—9pm. 50 O’Farrell St. at Stockton.

the matchmaker

PIZZA COOK / PIZZAIOLO — FULL TIME
Tommaso’s | North Beach, San Francisco

Tommaso’s is looking for an experienced Pizzaiolo/Pizza Cook to join our kitchen team. We are a 90-year-old San Francisco institution known for our traditional pizza and original wood-burning oven. We’re looking for someone who understands dough, respects the craft, and can execute consistently during a busy service. You should have:

• 3+ years professional pizza experience
• Strong knowledge of dough, fermentation, stretching, and pizza preparation
• Wood-burning oven experience strongly preferred
• Ability to work quickly while maintaining quality and consistency
• Excellent timing and attention to detail
• Reliable, punctual, honest, and hardworking
• Strong communication and a team-first attitude
• Ability to lift and carry 50+ lbs
• Experience prepping and maintaining a professional pizza station
• Wednesday–Sunday availability
• Bilingual English/Spanish is a plus

This is a hands-on position for someone who takes pride in their craft and wants to be part of a true San Francisco culinary institution. Please apply with your resume to Mo@Tommasos.com, and tell us about your pizza experience, dough knowledge, and wood-fired oven experience.

the starlet

It’s the perfect time to subscribe to tablehopper. Trust me. Fun things are coming. 🥂

what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. I’m trying to get this column back on its regular schedule of going out earlier in the week, wish me luck. Last night, I was invited to an industry screening of “Tony” before its theatrical release this Friday August 5th (thank you, Liam Mayclem, for the invite, and OpenTable for hosting). I know, it’s a daunting concept to even think of making a film about the monolithic Anthony Bourdain, but director Matt Johnson (and actor Dominic Sessa from “The Holdovers”)...

More icons: I’m so pleased to see Jeanette Etheredge get her flowers in a helluva colorful NYT obituary full of stories and quotes and keen observations—I was a little concerned her passing was going to remain a local story, but I’m glad the indelible mark she left on our city and the importance of her rare kind of hospitality and unique life finally got picked up and celebrated in the Old Gray Lady.

Since I hit pause on reporting on a lot of news while I was in Tahoe, I have a bunch of stories and catch-up links and blurbs for you today. Over 5,200 words tonight, people. Whew. It’s kind of wild to see how much is happening right now—so many upcoming openings and cafés and bakeries, buckle up. Thanks to summer intern Francesca Gasparini for helping me wrangle all these updates!

Let’s jump in.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

An Update on Tommaso’s (Including Upcoming Suppers to Help Support the Restaurant)

After writing about the tough times over at Tommaso’s in North Beach a couple weeks ago, I followed up with owner Mo Donegan for an update on how things are going. First, she wanted to say thanks to so many of you for all the generosity you showed in your donations to the 91-year-old restaurant’s GoFundMe (I told her I saw a bunch of subscriber names in the list of donations—you’re the best).

She mentioned a couple generous angels swooped in to loan her the money to cover her back rent and avoid eviction (as a loan, not a gift, as reported by the SF Chronicle, which caused the GoFundMe donations to slow down). So, if you feel like kicking in some dough to help her pay back the loans and get her head above water, that would be amazing. Keep it flowin’.

Donegan said business has been on the upswing since the announcement that the iconic restaurant was struggling, so she appreciates everyone showing up, but, she has been short-staffed, so she wants to thank everyone for their patience as she makes some new hires (and her host returns from vacation).

I reached out holding a tablehopper supper later this fall, so stand by on that, but in the meantime, her good friend Barbie is hosting two dinners—The Tommaso’s Family Table—to help raise funds on Tuesday August 11th and 18th, with seatings available at 5:30pm and 8pm. The supper will include an antipasto plate of Italian cured meats, marinated vegetables, and olives, as well as a Caesar salad and garlic bread. The family-style entrées will include their lasagna, eggplant Parmigiana, chicken piccata, and a selection of Tommaso’s classic, wood-fired pizzas, with mini chocolate cannoli for dessert. Pricing is $200 per head, all-inclusive, with wine! (If you want to donate wine for the event, or BYOB, you can do that.) Contact Tommasospartyreso@gmail.com with your preferred day, time (Tuesday August 11th or 18th, with seatings at 5:30pm and 8pm), and group size, and if you have any questions. 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

Two More Calls for Support, from Gumbo Social and Reem’s Mission

In addition to our dear Tommaso’s, there are a couple other SF restaurants that could use our support. Chef-owner Dontaye Ball of Gumbo Social has temporarily closed his three-year-old Bayview restaurant for six weeks (until August 17th) so he could upgrade equipment (including installing a new commercial oven), strengthen operations, allow the team to rest, and do some R&D for the next chapter.

Ball launched a GoFundMe to fund a pilot evening takeout window so they can offer Bayview a dinner option from 6pm–10pm. Funds will go toward installing a service door, security cameras, and the staffing needed to run it safely. 

Café Mélange, Gumbo Social’s sister restaurant in Civic Center, will remain open and serves gumbo if you need a fix.

More ways to support: book Gumbo Social for catering! Visit their booth at Outside Lands (they’ll be serving their Louisiana-style chicken and sausage gumbo, vegan gumbo, fried fish filet sandwiches, Cajun fries, and strawberry-basil lemonade). And, get a ticket to Gumbo Social’s 6th Annual All-You-Can-Eat Seafood Boil on Sunday August 23rd to celebrate Mr. Gumbo’s birthday. Your ticket ($49.99) includes unlimited servings of shrimp, smoked sausage, baby potatoes, sweet corn, and all the buttery Old Bay and Cajun goodness you can handle from 12pm–2pm (or until they sell out). 5176 3rd St. at Thornton.

And this is such a bummer: after suffering significant damage from a car crashing into the storefront of Reem’s Mission in a hit-and-run on the night of June 10th, the team has made the challenging decision to close for two months, starting this past Sunday August 2nd. In a recent post, they share: “Initial estimates put the cost of repairs at almost $200,000 and, because foundational damage may have been done to the building, the work may require pulling permits from the city, which could add up to six weeks to the timeline. We hope insurance will cover costs, but we have yet to hear a definitive response regarding what they will cover.

“We hoped we could keep some of our team working and make ends meet by continuing to offer takeout, delivery, and catering while we get the repairs done, but it’s simply not enough. In an industry with skyrocketing costs and razor-thin margins, we simply do not have the cash reserves to float us during this time.” If you’re able to support, please donate to their GoFundMe. 2901 Mission St. at 25th St.

Reem’s will also be at Outside Lands, teaming up with the American Lamb Board to bring back their La Gringa lamb quesabirria wrap, as well as serving Arab party fries and chocolate chip cookies. They’re also collaborating with Lion Dance Cafe on a vegan sambal tomat man’oushe. And, you can go visit the new Reem’s Jack London Square, a worker-owned café and flagship bakery in Oakland (at 85 Webster Street).

Let’s Get Baked: So Many New Bakeries Are Coming, Including a New Location of Maison Nico

Tartine is going to open a fourth location in San Francisco, a bakery in a former CVS at California and Sansome. The SF Chronicle reports the new Financial District location will actually be serving more than pastries and coffee, bringing breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s a significant buildout, so stand by for timing in 2027. 351 California St. at Sansome.

Angelica Nulud and Paul Faraon of Filipino pastry popup La Kalidád have a location for their café-bakery: 680 A 2nd Street in South Beach (previously Birdbox). They plan to open in the fall, in time for holiday pie orders. 680 A 2nd St. at Townsend. [Via SF Chronicle]

Something to diminish some of the sads over Shuggie’s closing is the news of who’s going in: Florecita Panaderia, the Mexican American bakery from owners Ximena and Jared Williams. They’re vacating their current Mission location, and plan to start serving their California-style conchas (and more) in mid-September. The SF Standard mentions they’re going to partner with a Bay Area coffee brand to handle coffee service in the second dining room, and will invite chefs to pop up and offer savory items as well. Stand by for more. 3349 23rd St. at Bartlett.

New Pastries Coming to Polk as Saturbake Goes Permanent

By Francesca Gasparini

Coming this fall is Lorella, a new bakery concept from chef-owner Melissa Loar and chef-partner Melissa Perello of Frances and Octavia. What started as Saturbake, a recurring pop-up at Octavia, has now gained permanent footing and plans to deliver seasonal pastries, fresh loaves, elevated desserts, and coffee to Russian Hill.

Cawfee Tawk: Exciting New Openings, Including SF’s First Café Highlighting Speciality Coffee from India

When I returned from Tahoe a couple weekends back, I swung by the upcoming Le Mil’s Coffee, which was getting close to soft opening in the space under Funky Door Yoga on Polk Street. I had reached out a few weeks ago for more info, but hadn’t heard back, so I was lucky with my in-person visit timing and got to meet one of the owners, Milana Ram (her husband and co-owner is Himanshu Bhaisare).

The airy space was looking great, with Modbar espresso machines set in a custom bar top with resin poured to look like the rainbow on their branding, comfortable chairs that will invite you to linger (plus a mezzanine with even more seating), and an eye-catching ceiling installation made of baskets. Ram was busy meeting with her plant consultant, but she let me buy a bag of their Chikka espresso blend with shade-grown, hand-picked, and sun-dried Arabica and Robusta beans sourced from her fifth-generation family farm in Navilumane Estate in Chikmagalur (in Karnataka in southwestern India). Le Mil roasts their coffee in small batches every two weeks in Berkeley (the Chikka was smooth, creamy, and balanced, with an extra boost of caffeine—I’ll take it!).

There is much more to Le Mil’s story, which you can read in these features in the SF Chronicle and SFGATE, and I look forward to returning to the café very soon to try some of their specialty coffee drinks. They’re having their soft opening right now, and the grand opening is Saturday August 15th, on India’s Independence Day. Here’s to San Francisco’s first café dedicated to specialty coffee from India! Keep track of their updates and hours here. 1330 Polk St. at Austin (near Pine).

Fuel Up for Your Next Adventure at Double Black

By Francesca Gasparini

Don’t Tell Your Cardiologist! Tacos El Patrón Is Coming to the Fillmore District

By Francesca Gasparini

If you like Tijuana-style quesabirria, then you likely know and love Tacos El Patrón. Lucky for me, my first-ever quesabirria experience was there, and ever since, the bar has been set exceptionally high. So, I know I’m not the only one who is thrilled with the news (via SF Business Times) that the Bay Area taquería is opening its fourth location on Fillmore Street in the former home of Scott’s Chowder House, making this the largest Tacos El Patrón location yet.

Tacos El Patrón gained stardom thanks to its standout quesabirria: tacos grilled to perfection with crispy, cheese-latticed edges, stuffed with slow-braised, shredded beef, and served with a rich, deeply flavorful consomé for dipping. Other menu items—like its grilled meat tacos and burritos—showcase owner Alberto Pineda and his wife Mariana Reza’s commitment to serving authentic Mexican flavors using family recipes and high-quality ingredients. 

This new location should be opening in coming weeks, and will be welcoming back tacos de guisado: traditional homestyle Mexican stews (like chile verde and tinga de pollo), a specialty that was once the concept of their past brick-and-mortar, Los Guisados Del Patrón on S. Van Ness Avenue. 1325 Fillmore St. at Eddy.

Even More Expansions Around Town

Better Late Than Never: Jollibee Finally Opened Their Downtown Location

East Bay Updates: Bring on the Hoagies and Injera and More

Enssaro just relocated into its new space in Rockridge after 20 years in Oakland’s Adams Point neighborhood. The family-run Ethiopian restaurant bought a permanent home on College Avenue to pass down to future generations. The mother-daughter-son Tamirue family team enlisted Ethiopian designer Kalu Gebreyohannes-Royster of Liyu Designs to create a space that feels “unmistakably Ethiopian.” The owners ensure that the new location preserves everything longtime patrons love about the restaurant, as well as adding a redesigned bar and cocktail program that you can enjoy on the inviting open-air patio. Operating hours are Mon–Fri 5pm–10pm and Sat–Sun 11am–10pm. 5897 College Ave. at Chabot, Oakland. -FG

While scrolling through Facebook last week, I noticed my friend Mo Hodges (previously Benjamin Cooper) announced a new project: Hoagie’s World of Hoagies coming to Berkeley. Suh-weet! The Philly native will be serving Italian hoagies, cheesesteaks, and roast pork with broccoli rabe and provolone, all on Amoroso’s rolls. You can read about it in this post on Berkeley Eats. The late August opening can’t come soon enough. 2618 Telegraph Ave. at Carleton, Berkeley.

Congrats to chef-owner Geoff Davis of Burdell, who will be opening his wood-fired, steak-centric concept, Uncles, in 2027 in the Wood Tavern location (which is closing after 20 years at the end of this year). The style will be more approachable instead of special-occasion steak, with a creative and seasonal spin on classic steakhouse sides and sauces; Uncles will also be open for lunch, dinner, and brunch. You can read more in this piece in Food & Wine and the SF Chronicle. 6317 College Ave. at 63rd St., Oakland.

the sponsor

Your Love for Heirloom Tomatoes Could Win You a Year of Dining in San Francisco!

A couple weeks ago, I mentioned the return of the GGRA’s SF Tomato Month, and now they’ve added an Instagram dining challenge, giving you a chance to win 1 Year of SF Dining: 13 gift certificates to 13 SF restaurants. It’s a baker’s dozen! And it’s so easy to enter: all it takes is one post on Instagram.

How to enter:
Share a photo of your favorite tomato or summer restaurant dish on Instagram with the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth. That’s it. 

One lucky winner will receive gift certificates to: Cotogna, Wayfare Tavern, Jane the Bakery, Brenda’s French Soul Food, Canela Bistro Bar, E&O Kitchen & Bar, Waterbar, Harborview Restaurant & Bar, Splash Sports Bar at Thrive City, Beretta, Bosco, and Ladle & Leaf/Oren’s Hummus (all gift cards are $100+ each, except for the Ladle & Leaf and Oren’s Hummus cards, which are $25 each). You’ll be busy and popular with your friends!

Enter by 11:59pm PDT on August 15th, 2026. Post your dish, tag #SFTomatoMonth, and you could be dining out in style for the next 12 months!

And for the overachiever: if you dine out at any five restaurants or farmers markets in SF between July 15th–August 15th, you can submit five photos of summer produce to enter the raffle to enter to win one of four staycation packages, with overnight stays at SF hotels! (Tomato dishes are encouraged, but corn, peaches, and other summer produce count, too.)

Good luck and happy tomato season! 🍅

the socialite

Outside Lands Is This Weekend—Whatcha Gonna Eat?

It’s already so unbelievable that August is here, and it’s even more bonkers that Outside Lands is this weekend (August 7th–9th). I’m sad to sit this year out, but such is life. OSL food curator Tanya Kollar has done another bang-up job with the Taste of the Bay Area food lineup, so I thought I’d point out a few bites that would be top of my list if I was going. 

I’ve already mentioned Gumbo Social and Reem’s (with Lion Dance Cafe) above, and did you see that Caché is serving ham and cheese galettes (made with buckwheat)? New to the lineup: Mi Comedor (a La Cocina entrepreneur) will have pineapple al pastor chicken wings; Meski is making Dominican braised chicken sambusas...

Subscribe to tablehopper and live your best SF life. 🙌

what’s cookin’

Hey, pals. How’re ya doin’ with the World Cup withdrawals? Up here in Tahoma (aka Stayhoma), the budding friendship between Fortuna and Chip continues to entertain me, and the joy of cooking summer produce on a grill cannot be understated—damn, I love having a grill. Riding my Mom’s vintage bike to the beach for my late afternoon dip is my favorite moment—it feels so good to be back in the saddle, and I’m glad my jenky knee isn’t acting up. 

One unfortunate thing is I have to make an unexpected early return to SF, so with my now-limited time up here to decompress, I’m keeping today’s column short on news (but long on history—wait until you read the archivist!).

Thanks for understanding this week’s summer hours: my soul needs more lake time, and less laptop time. (And the Wi-Fi keeps cutting out, so I’ll take it as a sign.) See you next week!

Chirp!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Get Fired Up for the Opening of SAAM, Bringing Bold Thai Dishes from a Lauded Thai Chef with a Local Spin and Team

It’s always good to have something to return home to, and I’m excited to book a table at the newly opening SAAM, the first U.S. restaurant from chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, the Michelin-starred chef behind Bangkok’s (and The World’s 50 Best/Asia’s 50 Best) Le Du and Nusara.

The SF Chronicle reports the name means “three,” and joining chef Ton is chef de cuisine Ty Choosuwan (Prospect, Boulevard), and GM Tee Atthapon (chef-owner of Song Wat, and Kan Kiin in Daly City). I was impressed to see videos of chef Ton already shopping at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, but with the tie-in (I’m not going to make a pun here, I won’t!) with local Thai chefs, now it all makes sense.

Their upscale, regional Thai menu will highlight local and housemade ingredients. I’ve been watching some of the dishes roll out, like tiger prawns with shrimp paste and fava beans (okay, then!). Something that won’t be local: most dishes will reportedly be legit Thai hot, and not dialed down for American palates. Bring it on. SAAM is opening Friday July 24th in the former Thai Sun and Moon in China Basin (previously Koh Samui and the Monkey). Reservations are live and booking up. Open Tue–Sat 5pm–9pm. 415 Brannan St. at 3rd St.

Please Help Save the 91-Year-Old Tommaso’s, One of SF’s Most Inimitable and Irreplaceable Restaurants

We have a restaurant friend who could really use our help RIGHT NOW: Maureen Donegan, who recently took over the historic Tommaso’s (open since 1935). Mo has been trying to ride the waves of some recent setbacks (the joys of running a restaurant never end), and she could really use an assist right now. PLEASE HELP by donating, amplifying, and telling your rich friends who give a shit about San Francisco. It’s urgent. You can read more about the challenges she has been dealing with and why she’s on the brink of eviction in this SFGATE piece. I really hope this gets sorted ASAP.

From her GoFundMe that just went live on July 21st: “I never imagined I would have to ask for help like this. For almost two years, I have had the honor of stewarding Tommaso’s, one of San Francisco’s oldest family-owned restaurants and home to our beloved historic wood-fired oven. For 90 years, families, friends, neighbors, and visitors have gathered here to celebrate milestones and share everyday moments. Tommaso’s has never been just a restaurant—it is part of San Francisco’s heart. 

After surviving the pandemic, rising costs, equipment failures, inflation, and the many challenges facing independent restaurants, we have fallen behind on rent. We have now been served with a Three-Day Notice to Pay Rent or Quit, and without immediate help, Tommaso’s could close forever. 

We are asking our community to help us bring our rent current and give us a chance to stabilize the business. These funds will help us pay our past-due rent and keep our dedicated staff employed. If Tommaso’s has ever been part of your life—if you have celebrated here, shared a meal with loved ones, or believe San Francisco’s historic small businesses deserve to survive—I humbly ask for your support. Every donation, no matter the size, brings us closer to keeping our doors open. If you cannot donate, please share this campaign with your friends, family, and social networks. That simple act could help save this special place. 

From the bottom of my heart, thank you for believing in Tommaso’s, our staff, and the importance of preserving a piece of San Francisco’s history. My hope is that, together, we can keep the fire in our historic oven burning for generations to come.”

With gratitude, 
Maureen Donegan 
Steward, Tommaso’s Restaurant

Did you know the historic brick pizza oven was the first wood-fired pizza oven in the neighborhood, and reportedly the first on the West Coast?! (If you’re a supporting subscriber, you can read my former archivist piece about the storied location, which is where the Cantalupo family opened Lupo’s Famous Pizzeria and Neapolitan Restaurant in 1935.)

Please help support Tommaso’s, Mo needs our help. Donate. SIGNAL BOOST THE GOFUNDME. Tell your writer friends. Go get some pizza. Lasagna. Coo Coo clams. Bring your posse. Tip big. We can’t let things go down like this. Open Wed–Sun 5pm–9pm (until 10pm Fri–Sat). 1042 Kearny St. at Broadway.

Join A Dash Of This Saturday for an Exploratory Tasting of Summer Fruit and Salt

Are you enjoying summer produce as much as possible? You sure? Fresh off her recent trip to Greece (and full of inspiration from eating melons and tomatoes), salt maven and founder of A Dash Of, Dava Guthmiller, is hosting another one of her fascinating guided salt tastings at Blu Dot San Francisco this Saturday July 25th: Salt & Spice — Summer Fruit Tasting. You probably already know how a little salt can make a slice of watermelon really pop, but do you know which finishing salt really makes it sing? How about a little spice? Have you tried finishing salt on stone fruits, citrus, different kinds of melon, and berries? 

This Saturday’s guided tasting of six–eight salts will include spiced and infused varieties, paired with seasonal fruits. Get ready for lots of “wait, try this one” moments and great company. I love these tastings—you learn a bunch about salt (and your palate!) and it’s always an interesting group. Tickets are limited; $45. 2pm–3:30pm. Blu Dot Showroom, 99 Missouri St. at 17th St.

Can’t make it? The next A Dash Of tasting is Umami Hour — Salt, Tomatoes & the Fifth Flavor on Saturday September 19th.

the sponsor

Save on Tickets and Weekend Passes to the Coolest Indie Wine Event This Summer: UNFILTERED Is This Saturday and Sunday (July 25th–26th)

This weekend (July 25th–26th) is the greatly anticipated UNFILTERED wine festival, two days of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. 

There will be 60+ of California’s most compelling indie winemakers—from the pioneers to the latest visionaries—pouring their craft wines (check the lineup of wines here!) over two days.

Saturday, July 25th

AmByth Estate, Analog Wine Co., Caleb Leisure, Clos Saron, Donkey & Goat, Driftwood Cottage, En Cavale, Feral Ecology, Forlorn Hope, Frenchtown Farms, Fres.co Wine, Ghostnote, Grenachista, Ian Brand Wines, Inter Tidal Wines, Iruai Wine, Joseph‑Jibril, Lula, Matt Crutchfield Wines, Onward Wines, Prima Materia, Reclamation Wines, Rootdown Cellars, Spur Road, Thee And Thou Wines, A Tribute to Grace, Unturned Stone, Vine Farm Ridge, Volta, Wonderwerk.

Sunday, July 26th

280 Project, Arcadian, Bedrock, Ellsworth Wines, Enfield, Etteilla Wines, Gondak Cellars, Haarmeyer Wine, Helia Wine Co., Hovik Wine, Mad Marvlus Wine, Madson Wines, Maison Des Plaisances, Minus Tide Wines, Native Bloom Winery, Newfound Wines, Ottavino Wines, Popelouchum Estate, Precedent, Ruby Blanca, Ruth Lewandowski, Ryme Cellars, Samuel Louis Smith, Schema Wines, Ser Wines, Stagiaire Wine, Trail Marker Wine, Virgo Magic, Ward Four.

Here’s what Alder Yarrow says in his latest post on Vinography: “These are all independent, vision-driven, high-integrity winemakers. Some are newcomers, others have been leading the way for decades. Some are unabashed natural winemakers, while many believe in the judicious use of sulfur dioxide. Regardless, there’s lots of tasty juice on offer during each day. In short, not a bad way to spend a couple of weekend afternoons!”

You’ll be able to purchase many wines that aren’t even available in stores, so you’re saving yourself the shipping cost from the wineries with your ticket.

And the panel programming is so cool, with topics I’ve never seen before, like: From Chad Hinds’ Psychic Terroir to Vinyl Listening Bars: Recentering the Experiential Value of Wine Through Music, and The Lodi Effect: How Did Lodi Become a Hotbed for Creativity in Wine?

Add in delish food from local makers, music, and great people, and this isn’t just a tasting—it’s a full-on wine community gathering over the entire weekend.

tablehopper subscribers get 20% off tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20.

Thanks for sharing this post and spreading the word to your wine lovin’ friends so they don’t miss this stellar event. 🥂 By combining educational seminars with the largest gathering of independent wineries in Berkeley’s history, UNFILTERED seeks not merely to educate consumers, but to reshape demand—giving independent producers the visibility they deserve and inviting restaurants, retailers, and wine bars to champion the extraordinary wines being made in their own backyard.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery
1340 5th Street Berkeley

Day pass: $65; Weekend pass: $95
tablehopper subscribers receive 20% off early-bird tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered.

the archivist

From Showtunes to Topless Trapeze, the Gomans Had It All

By Francesca Gasparini

Supporting subscribers are reading a fantastic archivist piece about Goman’s Gay 90’s (and 60’s), the topless craze on Broadway, the Barbary Coast, the International Settlement, the Putnam sculptures, and more.

Becoming a supporting subscriber not only helps fund the ever-growing tablehopper collection of vintage ephemera, but also the time to research and tell the fascinating stories behind these pieces and places.

what’s cookin’

Greetings from Lake Tahoe, where it’s feeling like Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom, Sierra Nevada edition (and I’m your host, Marcialin Perkins). I’ve had almost daily bear sightings (here’s a video of a mama bear and her cub cruising through our family cabin’s back lot), and Fortuna is currently being courted by a young chipmunk (Chip), who, to be honest, seems a little off to me. (I always joke about watching Chipmunk TV up here, and this is more like Chipmunk Telenovela.) I keep waiting for Jim to bust through the ferns carrying a snappy marmot. (No anacondas, please.) The birdwatching has been entertaining, with sightings of common mergansers squabbling over a fish, squawky Steller’s jays and ravens, and DD-breasted robins hopping about.

We had a couple days of rain up here (falling rain in the woods produces the most calming sound and smell, I wish I could bottle it), but since the sun has returned, I’m back to my daily cold plunges into the cool and clear lake (I got a kick out of reading this recent piece on cold plunges in The New York Times). 

Since I’m not going out at night, I’ve managed to catch up with a few movies on my watchlist, including an online screening of the can’t-miss Ask E. Jean documentary...

This weekend is all about watching the final matches of World Cup, and more birds, and hopefully another episode of Fortuna and Chip—I love my Tahoe lineup.

I enjoyed working with summer intern Francesca Gasparini on a few stories for this week’s column, including her first archivist post, featuring Il Trovatore in North Beach (great job!). And don’t miss the sugar mama giveaway to enter to win a pair of passes to next weekend’s UNFILTERED wine festival in Berkeley. It’s a hot ticket to hang out with the indie wine community, taste (and buy) local wines, listen to some inspiring panels, eat tasty food, and more.

Cheers! 🥂
~Marcia

the chatterbox

The Glam Leo’s Oyster Bar Has Softly Closed Its Oyster Shell

Pasta Supply Co’s Next Location, a New Gelato Shop, and More

Here are a few quick notes on new projects—a couple of these tidbits are supporting subscriber exclusives: 

Congrats to Lil’Alijo Catering & Events on becoming a permanent vendor at the Foodwise Ferry Plaza Farmers Market! You can find Alisha Wilson’s stand towards the back by Primavera every Saturday from 8am–2pm; here’s the menu of her Creole-Caribbean eats and treats.

I enjoyed reading this story in SFGATE on the return of Fresca (one of SF’s first Peruvian restaurants) to Noe Valley in early August, thanks to the next generation of the Calvo-Perez family. 3945 24th St. at Sanchez.

Super Duper News For Burger Buffs

By Francesca Gasparini

Commonly known as the over-achiever amongst burger chains for their “fast food burgers made with Slow Food values,” Super Duper Burgers announces the opening of their latest location at the corner of Fillmore and Post (formerly a Burger King). Tuesday July 14th marked the new location’s debut, bringing their classic burgers (made with freshly ground, vegetarian-fed Brandt Beef), free-range chicken sandwiches, fries (and garlic-cheese fries!), milkshakes (made with Straus Family Creamery organic soft-serve), and, of course, their housemade pickles, to the intersection of Lower Pacific Heights and Japantown.

Founded in the Castro in 2010, this is the 23rd location of Super Duper Burgers in the Bay Area. Operating hours are Mon–Thu 10am–11pm, Fri–Sat 10am–12am, and Sun 10am–11pm. 1701 Fillmore St. at Post.

Attack of the Killer (Delicious) Tomatoes

While I’m eating my body weight in peaches right now, a close runner-up is tomatoes, every day, in all the ways. Here are a few dishes and events where you can celebrate the rosy nightshade as it rolls into its prime season.

Pizzeria Delfina is serving their annual cherry pie, topped with marinated Sweet 100 and Sungold cherry tomatoes, plus basil, mozzarella, and a shaving of ricotta salata. Available now through peak tomato season (end of September).

The Bix summer tomato cart is pure genius. Instead of serving their famed steak tartare, a cart rolls up tableside so you can watch a California caprese salad of your dreams be assembled, with stunning tomatoes from Dirty Girl Produce, Zuckerman’s Farms, and Balakian Farms. The sliced tomatoes are served with a chiffonade of basil and a decadent scoop of creamy basket ricotta from Bellwether Farms, finished with a hearty glug of olive oil. Enjoy while it lasts.

Every year, I wait for the tomato-anchovy toast at The Anchovy Bar, with their housemade, lime-pickled “boquerones” and heirloom tomato vinaigrette on toast, a zhuzhed pan con tomate.

Bosco just launched a four-course, prix-fixe, heirloom tomato menu ($55), featuring peak summer tomatoes in every course, like tomato and stone fruit gazpacho; housemade tomato and goat cheese scarpinocc; and green tomato and eggplant parmigiana, with heirloom tomato sorbet for dessert.

If you want to truly enjoy a taste of summer, Little Saint and A16 are collaborating on a dinner in honor of a tomato sagra, but instead of a village festival of pomodori, it will be a plant-based dinner celebrating the Southern Italian tradition and Sonoma’s peak tomato season on Saturday August 15th (which is also Ferragosto in Italy). Imagine dishes like cold-cured olive misti with pickled cherry tomatoes, oven-dried cherry tomatoes on the vine, A16’s signature Neapolitan pizza, and more, all featuring ingredients sourced from Little Saint’s eight-acre regenerative farm. Reservations from 5pm–9pm; $125 per person, gratuity not included. Little Saint, 25 North St., Healdsburg.

If you want even more inspiration to go stuff yourself on tomato dishes, be part of the GGRA’s (Golden Gate Restaurant Association’s) 2026 Tomato Month, happening now through August 15th. Restaurants throughout San Francisco are offering tomato-focused dishes (like I mentioned above!), and all you need to do is log your dining experience at any five San Francisco restaurants or farmers’ markets using a QR code (see above), and you’ll be entered into a raffle to win one of three staycation prize packages.

Tomato dishes are encouraged (bring on the BLT, or even a pizza), but if tomatoes aren’t your jam, corn, peaches, and other seasonal produce count, too, but it has to be in SF! An additional prize drawing will be available for those who use the hashtag #SFTomatoMonth on Instagram. Have fun on your tomato quest! 🍅

the sugar mama

Enter to Win a Pair of Passes to the Coolest Indie Wine Event This Summer: UNFILTERED on July 25–26th

🎉 GIVEAWAY BELOW! 🎉 Since you subscribe to tablehopper, you’ve likely seen my posts about the upcoming UNFILTERED wine festival, a weekend (July 25th–26th) of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. 

Not only will there be 2 days of 60+ of California’s most compelling indie winemakers—from the pioneers to the latest visionaries—pouring their craft wines (check the lineup of wines here!):

And the panel programming is so cool, with topics I’ve never seen before, like: From Chad Hinds’ Psychic Terroir to Vinyl Listening Bars: Recentering the Experiential Value of Wine Through Music, and The Lodi Effect: How Did Lodi Become a Hotbed for Creativity in Wine?.

Add in delish food from local makers, music, and great people, and this isn’t just a tasting—it’s a full-on wine community gathering over the entire weekend.

You’ll be able to purchase many wines that aren’t even available in stores, so you’re saving yourself the shipping cost from the wineries with your ticket.

tablehopper subscribers get 20% off tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20 (tickets ➡️ donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered), but we’re also giving away one pair of weekend passes to one lucky winner. Here’s how:

Thanks for sharing this post and spreading the word to your wine lovin’ friends so they don’t miss this stellar event. 🥂 By combining educational seminars with the largest gathering of independent wineries in Berkeley’s history, UNFILTERED seeks not merely to educate consumers, but to reshape demand—giving independent producers the visibility they deserve and inviting restaurants, retailers, and wine bars to champion the extraordinary wines being made in their own backyard.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery
1340 5th Street Berkeley

Day pass: $65; Weekend pass: $95
tablehopper subscribers receive 20% off early-bird tickets with code TABLEHOPPER20

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: www.donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered.

the socialite

A Day of Gluttony and Gluten: SF’s Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival Returns on August 15th!

By Francesca Gasparini

It’s that time of year again, when the City delivers carbs, brews, music, and entertainment until you can’t even eat one more bite. On Saturday August 15th, the annual SF Pizza, Bagel, & Beer Festival returns for its fourth rendition as North Beach’s most anticipated food festival. Hosted by the renowned Tony Gemignani (13-time World Pizza Champion and owner of various esteemed pizza shops and bakeries)—in partnership with the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club—the festival promises the best the Bay has to offer in pizza, bagel, and beer. 

The killer lineup features both returning and new pizzaioli from over 36 places, such as Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, Capo’s, Slice House, A16, DAMNFINE, Flour + Water Pizzeria, Il Casaro, Rose Pizzeria, Square Pie Guys, and Terún, along with a group of women in pizza, featuring Gabacool Pizzeria, PizzaLeah, and Pizzeria da Laura.

The bagel department is covered by names like Cafe Brusco, The Laundromat, and Dago Bagel, among others, while the beer selection will be provided by local breweries like Enterprise Beer, Fieldwork Brewing, and Standard Deviant Brewing, along with some cider and hard kombucha.

These talented vendors will be shutting down Stockton and Filbert Streets from 12pm–4pm, with neighboring bars and restaurants continuing the fun into the evening with live music and special offerings.

This year, the entertainment is leveling-up with a new live music stage celebrating Bimbo’s 365 Club centered in Washington Square Park. Artists are expected to perform swing, jazz, and rock all throughout the afternoon to enjoy alongside or in between your bites and brews.

What’s more, the San Francisco Ooni Pizza Championship—moderated by celebrated pizzaioli Eidref Laxa and Adam Sachs—will return, where attendees will be able to watch 18 home chefs and pizza enthusiasts compete to make the best pie. This event has grown to become one of the headliners of the festival, drawing pumped-up crowds of pizza-loving locals and visitors.

Tickets are on sale now and have a tendency to sell out. The festival offers a limited VIP ticket ($275), which includes pizza and bagel tastings, unlimited beer tickets, one-hour early entry (at 11am), and access to a private lounge at the San Francisco Italian Athletic Club featuring an open bar, Columbus Craft Meats charcuterie bites, and an abundant gift bag of Italian specialties; Ages 21+ tickets ($90) get you pizza and bagel tastings, plus 4 beer tickets; Youth tickets offer pizza and bagel tastings with price varying with age: Ages 13+ tickets ($60), and Ages 5–12 tickets ($30); kids under 5 receive free entry.

Over the last three years, the event raised over $225,000, with proceeds benefiting local causes; a portion of the proceeds from this event goes towards supporting local non-profit organizations, including the Salesian Boys & Girls Club, San Francisco Italian Athletic Club Foundation, Saints Peter & Paul School, Friends of Washington Square Park, Next Village, the North Beach Business Association, and the John Arena Foundation.

the starlet

the archivist

Il Trovatore Proves Signage Leaves Legacy

By Francesca Gasparini

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what’s cookin’

Howdy, friends. It’s your hopper, with a quick dispatch before the weekend. Life tossed me some lemons, so I decided to make lemonade, and on Wednesday, I packed up Fortuna (my cat) and my laptop and hopped in my Fiat for an unplanned jaunt to Tahoe to soak up some majestic lake beauty and breathe in the mountain air. Hello, sun. It’s a special kind of therapy.

On my drive up, I’m so glad I was able to make it in time to Ikedas market in Auburn to pick up a couple baskets of their forever-fabulous peaches (O’Henry, thanks for showing up early, you handsome, freestone, hunk of a peach). Ikedas—a third-generation, Japanese American family business—has an incredible story, and it was just named the No. 1 Pie Shop in America in the USA Today 10BEST Readers’ Choice Awards (so well deserved). I didn’t pick up a pie, because having a whole Ikedas peach pie all to myself would be a problem, but I should have snagged a slice à la mode from the restaurant—or a pie milkshake! (On my way back to SF in a couple weeks, peach pie is happening.)

More stone fruit: last week, I was able to slip into the recently opened Esme on Divisadero for a restorative dinner with a dear friend—I’ll be writing more about this charming neighborhood bistro very soon. But, for now, if you happen to have a reservation (or want to try your luck walking in for a seat at the kitchen bar), don’t miss the current special written on one of the bistro mirrors on the wall: seared halloumi with grilled stone fruit (our server revealed they were golden apricots of heaven), which had a lightly smoky kiss that let you pretend you’re at a summer barbecue instead of swaddled in the middle of SF’s sweater weather. The dish gets an acidic counterpoint from the shallot gastrique and pickled Fresno chile, plus more kicky zip from piment d’Espelette, with some mint sprinkled on top (and I believe there were petite fronds of chervil—I didn’t fact-check this). However, we made a mistake and didn’t have a side of bread on the table to mop up the smoky-sweet-tangy juices at the end. (Get the bread.) And then, there’s the bonkers luscious pairing of Camin Larredya Jurançon moelleux (late harvest) dessert wine that tastes like a star-crossed lover with this dish. I can’t wait to write about sommelier and GM Andre Sydnor’s utterly fantastic wine list—the Champagne section alone made me swoon. More soon, bisous!

So, it’s the weekend. Finally. If I was in The City right now, I’d have a busy Saturday lined up. There are two World Cup quarterfinal matches to watch (at 2pm and 6pm), and there’s SF Magazine’s 25th annual Best of the Bay party (that link will take you to my special discount code!), and if drinking California wines crafted from Italian grape varieties with porchetta sliders and amatriciana on the patio at 54 Mint is more your speed, take a look at the sponsored event below: ViNO in PiAZZA. Or, do it all! More is more.

You know what else is more? Having some extra hands over here at Hopper HQ! I’m so pleased to announce I have a summer intern, Francesca Gasparini, who just started with me this week. (Her last name should be familiar if you love cocktails in SF.) The other night, I started laughing to myself that your last name has to end in “ini” if you’re going to intern over here—last year, we had the wonderful Olivia Casellini.

Francesca will be helping me research and write local restaurant news stories (we’ve been working in tandem this week to get her ramped up, so you’ll see her byline all over today’s column, yay). I’m pleased to learn she’s a fellow history buff, so she’ll also be writing some archivist posts for supporting subscribers, as well as working on other special projects (did someone say 20th anniversary?).

Get to know Francesca: 

Hello, everyone, my name is Francesca Gasparini and I’m beyond excited to introduce myself as a new summer intern for tablehopper! I was born and raised in the Bay Area, and am currently home for the summer before I return to UC Santa Barbara in the fall as a second year Sociology and Environmental Studies double major. I’m thrilled to combine my two greatest passions— food and journalism—working here at tablehopper!

Growing up in the Bay has made me a foodie since the womb, not to mention having Jon Gasparini—co-owner of Rye on the Road and the soon-to-reopen 15 Romolo—as my father. I’ve grown up around the food industry and have been conditioned to love and appreciate food and hospitality all my life. I love the rich cultural history of San Francisco (as well as all the tasty treats that are made here) and am delighted to get to explore it further with all of you!

Benvenuta, Francesca! It looks like we’ll need to start digging through all my vintage San Francisco books to put together an archivist piece on Julius’ Castle, which seems to finally, really, truly be close to reopening this fall. It first opened in the early 1920s, and has been sitting dark at the top of Telegraph Hill since 2008. (Oh, I just remembered, I shared a vintage postcard of Julius’ Castle from the 1950s a couple years ago in the archivist—I love how it looks like a beach castle.)

I look forward to catching up with owner Paul Scott soon, who has been through so many setbacks and hurdles since he purchased the location in a bankruptcy sale in 2012, but he has really stuck with it. Strong work! In the meantime, you can read the latest updates via these stories in the SF Chronicle, SFGATE, and SFist, and Tony Bravo shared some pics from 2024 of the in-progress interior (and a table that will have the best view in The City). I wish my grandpa Ernie was still here to tell me stories about dining at Julius’ Castle. Feel free to write in with any memories you have of going there, and what you loved.

Cheers to SF!
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Talk to the Hand: SF’s First Aussie-Style Handroll Shop Is Coming to Russian Hill

There’s a new style of casual eats coming to San Francisco this fall, thanks to Romi Trower, an Australian filmmaker and Melbourne native who has been missing Australian-style, grab-and-go handrolls since she moved here in 2019. She enlisted the Flour + Water Hospitality Group as consulting partners to launch Handroll Hawker, which will be bringing upbeat vibes to Russian Hill with a punchy pink palette and a mural from Serge Gay Jr. (Hoodline first noticed the buildout in March).

In SF, we only see temaki handrolls while at a sushi bar (like the nearby Saru, and the former Handroll Project in the Mission), but in Melbourne (and Sydney, too), Trower explains handrolls are a casual lunchtime staple and available everywhere, kind of like the way we are with burritos here. Aussie handrolls feature fresh fish and accompanying ingredients with sushi rice, which all gets wrapped up in nori in a cylindrical shape (not a cone), and boom, a few minutes later, you’re good to go. No chopsticks, no sliced maki—you can hold it in your hand and drive a bus. (Actually, don’t do that, but you can walk your dog or go down the street, easy.)

Trower explains Aussie handroll fillings can be standard like what we see in maki...

2360 Polk St. at Union.

More Casual Openings Around Town 

Back in May, supporting subscribers received the news (thanks to a neighborhood tipster) that a third location of Bonita Taqueria y Rotisserie was coming to the former Tacolicious/Todo el Día in Noe Valley, and the opening just happened on Wednesday July 8th. The project is from owner JJ Sweidan, working alongside his sister, Jenna Salah—their father is Issa Sweidan (founder-owner of Squat & Gobble), so they grew up in the restaurant industry...

Oklava Cafe Brings Turkish and Mediterranean-Inspired Cuisine to Market Street

By Francesca Gasparini

As you may remember reading in tablehopper back in May, there’s a new project, Oklava Cafe, that is one of Saluhall’s latest downtown additions, and it just opened July 7th in 945 Market. The Turkish team behind Palo Alto’s flagship location and SF’s Turquaz, Aziz Aslan and Elif Uzun, opened Oklava Cafe on the ground floor at Saluhall, which will make it easy to access for all-day dining.

Expect an authentic Turkish coffee program, as well as new creations, like pistachio and baklava lattes, served alongside a variety of their housemade Turkish pastries and desserts, including baklava (Marcia loves their cold milky pistachio baklava at Turquaz), kataifi, simit, poğaça, and borek.

The café offers an all-day breakfast menu, from Mediterranean avocado toast to Turkish breakfast, in addition to a variety of grab-and-go-style Turkish dishes. Pop in for lahmacun (a traditional Turkish flatbread that is thin and crispy, topped with minced meat, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs), or choose from their selection of hot and cold mezes, including baba ghanoush, kofte, and hummus. Open Sun–Thu 11am–7pm and Fri–Sat 11am–8pm. 945 Market St. at 5th St.

Summer Solstice Prompts a New Wave of Affordable, Prix-Fixe Menus

By Francesca Gasparini 

Co-chefs Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow introduce Flour + Water’s new, late-night, prix-fixe menu for the summer: Al Dente After Dark. Nestled at the heart of the Mission, Flour +Water has been serving up quality Italian cuisine with a Northern-Californian influence for the past 17 years, and this new menu should inspire you to return if it has been a while since your last visit. 

Only offered Sunday through Thursday after 8:45pm until closing, these hours should really appeal to industry folks (and with more light in the evenings, we’re all eating later in the day). For $59 per person, this vibrant, three-course menu offers a selection of bright summer salads and Flour +Water’s innovative, hand-crafted pastas using seasonal ingredients from local suppliers. Menu items will rotate as the summer progresses.

Elevate your experience with a personalized wine pairing for an additional $35 and pretend you’re in Italy enjoying a late-night dinner. You can reserve ahead of time, and walk-ins are welcome at the bar. 2401 Harrison St. at 20th St.

Hayes Street Grill is also offering their own three-course, prix-fixe seasonal menu that lists an assortment of crisp salads and freshly prepared seafood for your weekend outings this summer. Their Summer in the City menu runs Thursday through Saturday, from 6:30pm until closing. At just $49 per person, you get the opportunity to try light summer starters, like their Oregon Bay shrimp salad with gold beets, jade beans, eggs, and Green Goddess dressing, or grilled Monterey calamari, butter bean, and arugula salad. Mains include grilled steelhead salmon with Brentwood corn succotash and beurre blanc, and finish your night with a Meyer lemon chiffon mousse. To maximize freshness, the menu is subject to slight alterations depending on what’s at the market. 320 Hayes St. at Franklin.

sponsored event

This Saturday Evening! ViNO in PiAZZA: Italian Roots, California Terroir at 54 Mint

Raise your glass (again and again) at the first edition of ViNO in PiAZZA, an open-air tasting on 54 Mint’s comfy patio this Saturday evening (July 11th), featuring local wines made from Italian varietals by Ghostnote Wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and Prima Materia from Lake County. 

Pair every glass with Roman bites from chef Mattia Marcelli, like amatriciana, sliders with housemade porchetta, bruschetta with butter and anchovies, and supplì al telefono.

Meet the teams behind the bottles, taste their wines, and hear the stories that shaped them as you mingle with fellow wine lovers on a summer evening in Mint Plaza. 

$71.40 per person, all-inclusive (wine and food pairings)
Buy your ticket here

Saturday July 11th
5pm–8pm
54 Mint
16 Mint Plaza, San Francisco

the lush

Two New Brewery and Taproom Projects in SF Bring Something to Cheers To

By Francesca Gasparini

The recent wave of brewery closures across The City has caused concern amongst beer-drinking locals, including the unfortunate closure of Black Hammer Brewery back in March, and the announcement of Ballast Point’s abrupt closure that they just posted to their Instagram last week. However, with two new taproom projects to announce, it looks like the local brewing industry is turning a new tide this summer. 

San Francisco Brewing Co. just opened its largest project yet in the former Seven Stills Brewery and Distillery in Mission Bay, joining their existing brewery at Ghirardelli Square (established in 2012 by Josh Leavy). Their new property has a mind-boggling, 18,680 square feet of both indoor and outdoor dining space (designed by King O’Kelly Architects), featuring a full kitchen, 40-foot bar, large courtyard, and even an arcade! 7,000 square feet is dedicated to brewing space for their signature craft beers and rotating seasonal brews, with multiple, large, in-house beer tanks.

There’s also a 750-gallon copper pot still imported from Scotland (the largest in California!) for their new distilling operation: Hooper St. Distilling Co., which is launching with gin, vodka, and whiskey later this year.

Designed to be a family- and pet-friendly space, SFBCo. is planning to host live music and DJs every weekend, alongside game-day events (and private events, too). There’s a full-service dining experience led by executive chef Nas (Ignacio) Maldonado—previously at Cellarmaker Brewing Company’s House of Pizza—who collaborated with restaurant consultant Brian Reccow. Expect an elevated bar food menu featuring everything from Sicilian-style pizza and IPA pulled pork, to al pastor chicken, smash burgers, and skewers. This monster space has plenty of room for friends to gather after work and for families on the weekends to socialize, enjoy an ice-cold beer, a cocktail, and perhaps even shoot your shot at the Pac-Man leaderboard. 100 Hooper St. at 7th St.

On the other side of the city...

what’s cookin’

Hello hello, I have completed my two-week whirlwind of World Cup match–hopping and I’m back in SF! I just got home from Seattle last week, where on Wednesday it was a scorching 85 degrees at high noon while watching Bosnia and Herzegovina beat Qatar at Lumen Field. Hawt!

It was such a indelible experience to travel with my 85-year-old father and beloved sister to three matches over the past couple weeks, and we even got to visit with friends and family during our jaunts. It was our father’s eighth World Cup, my sister’s fifth, and my second, but our first all together. I’m grateful and so fortunate for the shared memories we have of this time together—and I always learn so much about the game when I’m with our dad, he doesn’t miss a beat.

While I’m not particularly the most sporty lady, there’s nothing like the feeling of being in a stadium of 65,000-plus soccer fans from around the world. It’s heady. Shoutout to the Bosnia and Herzegovina fans—we attended two of their matches (in the fabulous SoFi Stadium in LA and in Seattle), and their fan sections and songs and passion and friendliness were really something. Tonight’s match against USMNT is gonna be so lit! I really wish we could bring our father, but the ticket prices are so completely, utterly nuts.

One of my favorite things is walking around a stadium watching people take a closer look at our father’s Italian tricolore hat, which is covered with World Cup pins and flags from countries around the world—curious folks will make comments or ask questions, and the next thing you know, we’ve got a conversation going. Carm also trades pins with other fans, which offers an interesting life lesson about attachment—for such a sentimental man, I’m impressed that he’s able to let some of his favorite pins go back out into the world, but then again, some really cool ones come into his life that way, too.

Last Wednesday night, while we were watching Mexico win 3-0 on TV, the Michelin Guide California awards were being handed out in San Diego, and one of my most adored restaurants (finally) received their third star: Californios! Tremendous congrats to chef-owner Val M. Cantú, his wife, Carolyn, and their dedicated team: not only was this hard-earned designation finally happening, but it also makes Californios the first Mexican restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars in the world (again, finally). I remember attending one of Cantú’s very first pop-ups in the Mission in 2013, and have taken great pleasure in witnessing his culinary evolution and continual leveling up over the past 13 years. Bravo! I consider his al pastor squab taco nestled in a flour tortilla of your absolute dreams during my last visit to Californios as one of the most delicious tacos of my life. Whenever people ask me where they should go for a memorable fine dining experience in SF, my answer is Californios, without hesitation.

Here are all of the 83 starred restaurants in California (as well as Bib Gourmands). Congrats to Enclos in Sonoma, who also rose to three stars (in just a year and a half!), and to SF’s new one-stars: Naides and Wolfsbane (as well as Troubadour Bread & Bistro in Healdsburg!). I love seeing the recently opened Maria Isabel already come in with the Exceptional Cocktail Award, and GM Frida Blomdahl Hay at the relocated Sons & Daughters won the Michelin Service Award. It takes so much work and dedication to maintain stars, so, big kudos to all the places who kept their macarons in place. It’s time to break out the Champagne! 

Or, in the case of the upcoming UNFILTERED wine event at Donkey & Goat in Berkeley (July 25th–26th), make it California sparkling wine. During the two-day event, there will be a variety of panels to attend, and I will definitely be present for “Breaking the Champagne Spell: California’s Great Sparkling Wine Experiment,” an in-depth conversation with Chris Cottrell (Under the Wire), Brad Kurtz (viticulturist at Gloria Ferrer), Jared Brandt (Donkey & Goat), and Michael Cruse (Cruse Wine Co and Ultramarine) on Saturday July 25th at 1:30pm. [UNFILTERED is a paid sponsor, and tablehopper readers get a discount on tickets, access the code here.]

Your gurl had so many plans for this past SF Pride Weekend, from marches to parties, kikis, rallies, and dance floors I needed to twirl on, but, sadly, I was under the weather and had to stay home. I can’t believe I had to miss out on my favorite SF weekend with my beloved community. At least I was able to play a couple choice Pride party soundtracks at home: here’s a brand-new Pride mix from CarrieOnDisco, and a Pride mix from Josh Cheon of Dark Entries Records on the NTS Radio Show.

I have also been loving the 7x7 installation by Illuminate at City Hall—it has been so beautiful to watch from my desk window every night, beaming up into the fog, and we have one more week to enjoy it.

But this year’s Pride was also a challenging one, especially for our trans community, including the scarily escalated and excessive police force at the end of the SF Trans March on Friday (and it’s the 60th anniversary of the Compton’s Cafeteria Riot, ugh), along with other heated and traumatizing incidents. I’m so glad District 9 Supervisor Jackie Fielder is back—KALW reports she submitted a Letter of Inquiry to ask SFPD and the Mayor questions about the outsized police response this past weekend at two trans gatherings. The queer community (and allies and SF citizens) need answers and accountability.

There’s a lot to unpack and understand, starting with the SF Giants Pride Night debacle (be sure to read this coverage about the uplifting counterpoint of the Valkyries’ Pride Night), and Senator Scott Wiener’s appearance at the Trans March, and these stories keep developing with more information. I’ve been talking with friends and reading many perspectives on all these events, and I hope you can do the same—we need to have informed conversations. This year’s Pride leaves us with much to process, question, and learn from—and the importance of renewed commitment to show up for and protect our LGBTQIA+ community. And brava, Juanita MORE!, for raising over $140,000 through her Pride events that will be “donated to the GLBT Historical Society Museum & Archives. Allowing them to continue to affirm that LGBTQIA+ history is American history. And that our stories are worth protecting.”

Today’s issue is a shortie (I was busy leading one of my private food tours yesterday), but a goodie (wait until you check out Bruno’s Italian Taste below). Since the Fourth of July holiday is obserrrrrved this Friday, I’m going to take the rest of this week to catch up with my damn self and hundreds of emails and will see you on the flip side of the fireworks. Also: Todd Terje returns to SF after 10+ years to play a DJ set at Public Works on Saturday night!

A bunch of restaurants are taking well-deserved holiday breaks this week, so call or check online before heading over to your favorite joint. (Although, I just noticed Foreign Cinema is open for brunch and dinner on Saturday, cute!)

Take good care, and let’s all try to get some rest.
XO,
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Bruno’s Italian Taste Now Open in Yerba Buena, Bringing Authentic Southern Italian Flavors in an All-Day Concept

Back in December, I was so thrilled to break the story about the opening of Bruno’s Italian Taste in Yerba Buena from Calabrese couple Fabio Brunocilla and Marcella Foti, who hail from my Dad’s hometown of Cosenza. They’re dedicated to showcasing Southern Italian ingredients, products, authentic dishes, and hospitality; this is their first brick-and-mortar business, one that the couple has been planning for a long time. (I wrote in depth about their backgrounds and how this project came to be in my former piece.)

Last Monday, I swung by their new pizza, pasta, street food, pastry, and panino shop (and much more!) for the first day of their soft opening. The smell of freshly baking pizza will tickle your nose before you walk in, and then you see the case of pizza in teglia alla romana, ranging from a pan of Margherita, to Calabrese (with spianata piccante salame), ortolana (vegetarian with tomato sauce, cheese, three kinds of roasted bell peppers and onions, or with mushrooms), and there’s even a vegan option; upcoming specials and flavors will include housemade Calabrese sausage and friarielli (rapini), potato, mortadella and burrata, and more. The slices cost around $8.50.

The dough process takes 48 hours; Fabio par-bakes the pizza, and then as the supply dwindles in the case, he finishes baking a fresh pan in his Tauro electric deck oven—they also warm up your slice when you order it. I tried the delicious ortolana pizza: the dough had a perfect balance of golden crispiness and light crunch, while being pillowy soft inside, and the bright tomato sauce with the roasted bell peppers made me think of my grandmother’s peperonata—all I needed was a wedge of caciocavallo with it. 

They will be offering panini in their housemade ciabatta for lunch, from a mortadella panino with stracciatella cheese and pistachio pesto, to the Calabrese (with hot spianata salami, Calabrese provola, roasted bell peppers, dried tomatoes in oil, and ’nduja, how about that?)! Panini will cost $15–$18.50.

You’ll find a few caprese salads (one is with burrata, another with bufala), and their Italian green salad has carrots, radishes, Castelvetrano olives, and add-ons like mozzarella ciliegine, burrata, or asiago. There was also a good-looking Umbrian farro salad with cherry tomatoes, Castelvetrano olives, Italian mushrooms, capers, mozzarella, and basil.

There’s a hot case with items you can eat for lunch, or do like I did and bring home some eggplant Parmigiana to warm up later for dinner—it’s like having your imaginary Italian cousin send you home with a little something from their kitchen. The homemade touch shines in everything they make. There’s lasagna bolognese, and a mushroom lasagna, plus beef meatballs in marinara ($16–$18), and their housemade spicy Calabrese sausage stir-fried with potatoes should be in the case soon. I also can’t wait to try their lasagna Calabrese, which is going to be like how we make it at home, with mini meatballs and sliced boiled egg!

They’re putting together a happy hour from 3:30pm–7:30pm, with taglieri (boards of sliced cheeses and salumi—most of the items will be Calabrese or Southern Italian), as well as bruschetta, and their house-cured vegetables (like Calabrese eggplant, the best!). 

Since Fabio is quite the baker, this week, he started baking traditional Italian cornetti and filled brioche for morning service to go with their Neapolitan espresso (Caffè Borbone)—they were trying to get Aiello from Cosenza, so maybe that will happen in the future. 

You can’t go home without a container of Fabio’s tiramisù: he makes a classic one with mascarpone and a top layer of cocoa ($7.50), but the one that really knocked my socks off was his pistachio version ($8.50)—he whips pistachio crema into the mascarpone, brilliant. It was light, not too sweet, and the espresso-soaked ladyfingers will give you a little bass note (and boost).

I was chuckling over the Italian light-up signs they have on the walls (some are in Calabrese dialect), and fellow day one customers included the Sicilian couple (Ilary and Ceci) behind Hila gelato with their new baby! Auguri, Fabio and Marcella, on your new baby, Bruno! In case you’re wondering about who Bruno is, it’s a nickname Fabio earned from his last name (Brunocilla) when they were living in Padova—Northern Italians tend to abbreviate last names. Now that their soft opening week is over, hours are expanding to Mon–Fri 8am–7:30pm. 606 Mission St. at 2nd St.

News Bites from Around the Bay

Here are some quick news bites for you—I wish I had time to write more about these projects, but this week is fast and furious:

Congrats to George Chen and Cindy Wong-Chen of China Live on getting the 15,000-square-foot Asia Live (and BarLucy on the second floor) open in at Westfield Valley Mall in Santa Clara. If you’re heading down for any World Cup games, you can go check it out!

SFGATE had an early visit: “While China Live centers on Chinese cuisine, Asia Live draws on a wide variety of Asian fare, from Indonesian and Japanese to Indian, Korean, Thai and Vietnamese.” The piece shares a taste of some of the new and rotating dishes on the menu, like Singapore kaya shrimp toast and Tokyo sweet and sour pork tenderloin tonkatsu, which are prepared at open kitchen stations.

Asia Live’s retail marketplace is open daily 10am–9pm, lunch and dinner service is 11am–11pm, BarLucy is open Sun–Thu 5pm–10pm and Fri–Sat until 11pm. The Pergola Bar & Cafe with outdoor seating for 50, and Sushi & Yakiniku bar on level one will debut on July 1st, along with Asia Live On-the-Go takeout service on concourse level one. 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd. #1891, Santa Clara.

It looks like Cheezy’s Artisan Pizza is reopening in The Market after closing their stand in Saluhall—stand by for updates on timing. Way to go on the comeback. 1355 Market St.

KRON4 caught the news that Funky Elephant on Valencia has sadly closed their delicious Thai restaurant. Bummer. Their (tiny) Berkeley location remains open. 1270 Valencia St.

Damn, another fire on Divisadero? The Mill suffered a fire early Monday morning, but, thankfully, no one was injured: “Last night we had a fire and will be closed until further notice while we get everything sorted. Everyone is safe, just in shock. Thank you for your support as we figure out how to move forward.” Since it’s also the HQ for Josey Baker Bread, the team is trying to figure out how to continue their baking production elsewhere in the meantime. 736 Divisadero St.

I was sad to see this post from Zhuzh Bar that Pride Sunday was the inclusive neighborhood bar and cute, mini-disco’s last day of business. Wah! I wrote about the opening from Aaron Paul, Jacob Roberts, and Eric Passetti just a little over two years ago. Thanks for the impromptu dance party nights, perfect after shows at the Regency. Damn. 1548 California St.

Back to good news: Eric Tucker and Alison Bagby of Millennium have reopened the 32-year-old vegan restaurant (since 1994!) with a new format: a five-course prix-fixe patio menu for $95/person, optional wine pairing: $46/person; and an à la carte menu at the bar and inside for self-seating (fast-casual style). Read more about the new format here and in this SF Chronicle story. 5912 College Ave., Oakland.

I love some good queer business news during Pride month: after trying to sell Orphan Andy’s so they can (finally) retire, married co-owners Dennis Ziebell and Bill Pung have a buyer, and SF Business Times reports the kitschy Castro diner is under contract to sell to Michael Goodrich, currently an assistant general manager at Bun Mee. And, we can exhale: “Goodrich told the Business Times he plans to keep things the way they are, retaining all staff and 24-hour service — in line with the longtime owners’ wishes.” You can read more in the Bay Area Reporter, who first reported on the sale. 3991 17th St.

D’Arcy Drollinger has announced the date for the reopening of Oasis is July 17th, thanks to a last-minute save from a multimillion-dollar donation from the Stevens Family (you can read more in this SFGATE story). While tickets to The Grand Reveal are sold out, there are other events listed. Welcome back, Oasis! Whew and whoo! 298 11th St.

the matchmaker

Restaurant & Café Equipment Sale from Recchiuti Confections

2565 3rd Street, San Francisco

Stop by on Monday July 6th for a massive sale of food service equipment, including kitchen tools, baking pans, culinary machinery, drinkware, and much more. Front of the house and back of the house materials on sale, for a variety of operations. Open house–style from the hours of 11am–4pm, pricing individually listed but discounts provided for encouraged bulk purchases. Ranging from brand new to lightly used.

Larger equipment such as refrigerators, microwaves, and water heaters are also available. Enough equipment to open up a new café tomorrow. Reach out to (415) 602-4102 with any questions (please fill out this interest form).

I’d love to have you become a tablehopper supporting subscriber—it’s such a mutually beneficial relationship. 🥂💞 Enjoy the holiday weekend. 🎆

what’s cookin’

Hi, it’s your tired hopper. I know, I’m usually pretty upbeat over here, but between dealing with my busted laptop for a week (would you believe I had to have the Apple Store wipe it for a factory reset, UGH, and it’s still crawling back?), and after being on day six of what bloomed into a rotten cold, I am spent.

So much for getting some rest before getting ready to head down to LA today with my dad and sis for a World Cup match this Thursday (Switzerland vs. Bosnia and Herzegovina), and then we’re back up for Turkey vs. Paraguay at Levi’s Stadium on Friday. Whooosh. It was such a blast watching the USA vs. Paraguay match on Friday from my couch (with Fortuna in my lap, she’s a new soccer fan)—USA is back in action at noon this Friday vs. Australia. I love seeing all the organic watch parties happening at neighborhood places like Leopold’s and El Chato!

Since World Cup and Father’s Day are intersecting this year, I thought it would be fun to share this vintage pic of my dad (Carmen) with his girls picking out some Halloween pumpkins after what looks like some weekend soccer practice. (Carm is wearing a T-shirt commemorating when Spain hosted the World Cup in 1982, which Italy won that year, so this pic is giving some early ’80s realness.) I’m wishing all you dads and father figures a happy Father’s Day this Sunday (you’ll find some ideas on where to bring Pops in this week’s column), and much love to all who are missed.

While I was stuck home this past weekend, I thoroughly enjoyed watching the Earth Wind & Fire (To Be Celestial vs That’s the Weight of the World) documentary by Questlove on HBOMax. This doc goes deep, and is so immersive. Anyone who grew up in the ’70s will dig learning the backstory of a visionary band that was the soundtrack to so many moments of our lives. It tells an incredible story, one that spans so many years, and there are some fun and unexpected reveals, too. It would be a good one to watch this Friday on Juneteenth.

Congrats to all the winners of the 2026 James Beard Restaurant and Chef Awards and Media Awards. Locally, we had chef Michael Tusk of Quince win Outstanding Chef, and Kevin Diedrich of Pacific Cocktail Haven won Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service. Way to get SF back in the game. The full list of winners can be found on the James Beard Foundation website. 

Over the weekend, I gave a big, sad sigh after seeing a couple in remembrance posts from Vesuvio and Specs in honor of Jeannette Etheredge, our salty grand dame of North Beach and an absolute LEGEND, who has reportedly left us for the smoky, cash-only cocktail bar in the sky. I haven’t seen an obituary yet, so I’ve been stalling on sending this while trying to get confirmation from people close to her. I reached out to Janet Clyde, owner of Vesuvio, who said several close friends have confirmed Jeannette’s passing, and a post on Facebook from her friend Leslie Kaye shares, “Dear friends, in case you have not heard the sad news, Jeannette Etheredge, legendary owner of Tosca Caffe, died peacefully yesterday morning with her son Devin holding her hand.” North Beach Citizens posted this heartfelt tribute and wonderful pics of Jeannette. Deep condolences to her family and vast circle of friends and fans.

Jeannette descended from North Beach bohemian royalty (with a jaw-dropping dramatic family history): her mother, Armen Baliantz, AKA Madam Bali, was the elder icon known for cultivating and hosting an artistic and fascinating milieu while holding court at Bali’s, her restaurant in Jackson Square. Francis Ford Coppola told me Madam Bali made the most exquisite, Armenian-style rack of lamb in pomegranate juice—you’ll even see it mentioned on the inside of this vintage book of Bali’s matches as sedlo (I still haven’t been able to find a vintage menu of Bali’s for my collection).

Etheredge wrote the subsequent chapter of the badass businesswoman legacy her mother started when she became the owner of the Tosca (from 1980 until 2013)—she made it the most authentically cool hangout in the City, the scene for the best stories (and many we’ll never know in the back room), the stuff SF late nights and foggy memories are made of. All were welcome, just don’t be a jerk (but that’s when you’d hear her withering one-liners).

Jeannette would keep an eye on things and who was coming in through the door with quick glances from behind her tinted gradient glasses while perched at her end of the bar (oh, those eyes that had seen everything). I would breathlessly wait for her to (hopefully, maybe) open the door to her office at some point so I could peer at all the remarkable cinematic memorabilia on the walls. It was like looking into the Lost Ark, or what was in Marsellus Wallace’s briefcase.

When Tosca was tragically teetering on the brink of closing (and Sean Penn helped broker a deal to save it), I wrote: “I love the moody ambiance, the opera on the jukebox, the white-jacketed waiters, the utterly hilarious Edith Head graffiti in the pink women’s bathroom, the occasional peek into Jeannette’s amazing and memorabilia-covered office (which needs to be shellacked and left exactly as it is). And let’s not forget the always entertaining cast of characters who wander in there. It was one of the last bars where I could still surreptitiously smoke after the ban (mind you, I quit over 10 years ago, but still).”

Jeannette cut and polished one of San Francisco’s most treasured and rare jewels, and we’ll always be grateful for that moment in time that felt like an indie film with the most unexpected ensemble cast. Raise your glass to this absolute icon of our city, the consummate host and storyteller (who intrinsically understood what to keep private). Share your stories of her widely, because Jeannette gave us a surfeit of quality material. A true character. If you want to send in any stories or memories or bon mots for me to read or share, please do.

For now, I’m signing off—see you next week.
~Marcia

the chatterbox

Some Changes (Already) at the Newly Opened Golden Focaccia in Lower Nob Hill

Wow, well, that was fast. On Sunday afternoon, I was excited to bring my sister over to the new Golden Focaccia shop I wrote about last week so she could try a focaccia panino with me after our yin yoga class at nearby Alchemy Springs. It ends up that baker Marco Scabin has already left the project, and owner Omar Barkache is running the shop with his wife and other family members. Fortunately, they have the focaccia recipe, so the focaccia panini will continue, but they have made some changes to the original menu (the porchetta dip is gone, and they also changed the Boscaiolo I shared last week into another panino with different ingredients, FYI).

Another change: they swapped out the focaccia pizza al taglio and are now serving six kinds of pinsa romana instead.

Open 11am–8pm daily (until 8:30pm Fri–Sat). 881 Post St. at Hyde.

A Coming Soon Report and News Bites

Bar Brucato Is Unfortunately Closing This Weekend

The fine folks at Brucato Spirits (Sierra and James Clark) sent this update that they are sadly closing Bar Brucato this weekend, after opening it a little over a year ago: “We have made the difficult decision to close Bar Brucato. Our last day of service will be Saturday, June 20th. The goal of Bar Brucato has always been to showcase our lineup of amaros, liqueurs and craft spirits in a beautiful bar and restaurant setting. We could not be prouder of what we built! To that end, we want to expressly thank our General Manager, Rye Tondreault, for their incredible expertise and hard work overseeing our operations from day one, Executive Chef Mitchell Reichert for his calm and dedicated leadership of our kitchen, and Leila Malikyar for developing one of most inspired cocktail programs in San Francisco.

We are closing the bar and restaurant so that we can refocus our energy and passion on the Brucato Spirits Distillery, where we will continue to produce our amaros and other spirits in the same Mission District location. We are committed to keeping our distillery doors open and welcoming you into our space.

We are particularly excited to share the news that we hired Adam Hall as our Distillery Director. Adam previously worked as the distillery operations and facilities manager of the Hotaling & Co. Distillery on San Francisco’s Pier 50. He has already become an invaluable member of our team, bringing passion, knowledge, and humor to everything he does. Welcome, Adam!

While we will cancel this weekend’s Distillery Day, we are excited to continue to offer our distillery tours, our monthly open-house distillery days, and retail sales during distillery hours to our San Francisco community starting in July. And online sales of bottles and merch across the country remain. This is goodbye to Bar Brucato for now, but not forever. Bar Brucato will return at some point in the future, bolder and better than ever!”

This is such a bummer, because I really dug Bar Brucato’s talented, queer bar team (who made some damn good cocktails!), and I don’t want to imagine our lives without the cheese-paprika crackers. But, honestly speaking, I always thought the place would make the perfect hideout bar with a little reformatting—it’s so hard to run a successful small restaurant in SF. We’ll have to see what’s next for the space. 275 South Van Ness Ave.

Calling All Independent Restaurants, Food Trucks, and Caterers: You Have Two Weeks to Apply for a $5K Grant

Just making sure all you industry folks see this update from the San Francisco SBDC (Small Business Development Center): “The Restaurants Care Resilience Fund is offering $5,000 grants to independent restaurants and commercial caterers in select California counties to invest in kitchen equipment, technology upgrades, employee training, and unexpected hardships.

“Supported by PG&E and administered by the California Restaurant Foundation, these grants are designed to help restaurants strengthen their business, support their teams, and prepare for the future. To learn more about this grant and the application process from the PG&E community outreach representative, you can watch our webinar (minutes 11–25).” You can apply here (until June 30th). Go get that money, honey.

Some Ideas on Where to Take Your Pops for Father’s Day

There are all kinds of dads: the ones who love a good steak, while another may live for roast duck, or pizza, or lumpia. (Or, in the case of me and my sister: soccer.) Father’s Day is coming up this Sunday June 21st (the same day as our summer solstice), and here are some quick ideas for you.

Italian is always a hit, from the old-school Tommaso’s in North Beach (don’t miss the Coo Coo clams); as well as the updated North Beach Restaurant (with housemade tortellini in brodo); the all-day hours at A16 make it easy to visit for braised meatballs, springtime gnocchi with English peas, and a Berkshire pork chop; and 54 Mint is running a $65 family-style, prix-fixe menu, featuring zeppole di San Giuseppe (a cream-filled pastry traditionally made in honor of fathers and family).

the lush

The Upper Haight Will Be Swingin’ with Live Music and Shakin’ Cocktails Once Again with the Opening of The DeLuxe This Thursday

I’m so bummed I wasn’t feeling well enough to attend one of the pre-opening parties for The DeLuxe this week, which, pending a final permit, should be opening this Thursday June 18th—the classic neon sign inside the bar is lit and ready for you! Last fall, I wrote about the new owners restoring the legacy bar after it sadly closed in 2023: former Club Deluxe bartender and now co-owner Christian Beaulieu with Jay Bordeleau (Mr. Tipple’s Recording Studio). 

The bar dates back to the 1920s, and the duo have made many improvements, including a new sound system and lighting, and take a look at the updated murals by artist and musician Jon Weiss here (the old ones were sadly gone). I look forward to sharing details once I have a chance to swing by for some live jazz and a couple cocktails. Here’s to many more good times in that legendary space. Follow @thedeluxesf for updates. 1511 Haight St. at Ashbury.

sponsored event

Think & Drink at UNFILTERED, July 25th–26th at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley

Join more than 60 of California’s most compelling, independent winemakers for UNFILTERED, a weekend of extraordinary wine, food, music, and conversation at Donkey & Goat Winery in Berkeley. From legendary pioneers like Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon), Gideon Beinstock (Clos Saron), Angela Osborne (A Tribute to Grace), Ian Brand, Craig Haarmeyer, and Joe Davis (Arcadian), to a new generation of producers like Matt Crutchfield, Samuel Louis Smith, Justin Trabue (Ward Four), Coral Wang (Maison des Plaisances), Evan Lewandowski (Ruth Lewandowski), Sabrina Tamayo (Ruby Blanca), Cole Thomas (Madson), Brent Mayeaux (Stagiaire), and more, UNFILTERED offers a rare opportunity to really connect with the people behind some of California’s most distinctive wines.

At its heart, UNFILTERED is a gathering of winemakers, artists, farmers, chefs, and curious drinkers exploring the ideas and values shaping contemporary wine culture. Throughout the weekend, guests engage directly with winemakers through tastings, conversations, and panel discussions exploring farming, food, art, climate, culture, and the evolving identity of California wine.

Taste wines rarely found outside winery mailing lists, enjoy food pairings from local chefs, and experience the rich personalities and vibrant community of our independent winemakers. UNFILTERED takes place in a relaxed, intimate setting with easy access and ample parking.

For tickets, participating wineries, and the full schedule, visit: donkeyandgoat.com/unfiltered

Tickets 🎟️: Day pass, $65; Weekend pass $95.

July 25th–26th, 2026
Donkey & Goat Winery: 1340 5th Street Berkeley

the matchmaker

Restaurant & Café Equipment Sale

2565 3rd Street, San Francisco

Stop by on Monday July 6th for a massive sale of food service equipment, including kitchen tools, baking pans, culinary machinery, drinkware, and much more. Front of the house and back of the house materials on sale, for a variety of operations. Open house–style from the hours of 11am–4pm, pricing individually listed but discounts provided for encouraged bulk purchases. Ranging from brand new to lightly used.

Larger equipment such as refrigerators, microwaves, and water heaters are also available. Enough equipment to open up a new café tomorrow. Reach out to (415) 602-4102 with any questions (please fill out this interest form).

the starlet

That’s all, folks! See you next week.